It is completely ugly when, after repairing the room, the wires are not hidden in the wall, and randomly lie on the floor or hang on the wall. They not only spoil the overall picture of the room, but can also lead to an accident. In some cases, you have to think about connecting some kind of device and not to spoil the design of the room. Of course, it is worth paying attention to how to hide the wires in the apartment.
In each house, one or another household appliances is connected, and in any case, the wires on the wall from these devices can somehow rush in the eye. In this article, detailed instructions will be given, how to hide the wires on the wall, in the wall and in the floor.
Hide wire in the wall
Initially, with the help of strokeware, it is necessary to remove the remains of plaster and concrete, cut into the wall in the wall, in which all the wires will be hidden. The wiring must be placed in a protective shell - corrugation, which serves to protect against external adverse effects. Then the wires should be put in the cut channels, after which the wall needs to be attached.
To hide the wires in the wall, you have to break its integrity, and this often does not want to do, because at the same time the interior will suffer, and the work is associated with dust and garbage, and subsequently the wall is subject to reconstruction, which involves certain costs. Therefore, other, more favorable ways can be applied, in which you do not need to resort to the walls of the wall.
Wire on the wall
If you have an artistic taste, you can fix the wire on the wall by making a picture from it. It is quite clear that the native, one-year-old wire is not enough for these purposes. Choose a suitable pattern, and transfer its outline on the wall by making a non-large pattern with a simple pencil. Now you need to calculate the required amount of wire. To do this, you can attach a blocking thread to the wall, so that it repeats the drawing. Then its distance can be measured. Do not forget to add a length from the drawing to the outlet and to the source of electricity consumption - add a meter about the reserve, and you will receive the desired amount.
Wiring manufacturers most often do not indulge the abundance of the color versions of the wire, so you have to choose from what is - black or white. If these colors do not suit you, you can buy an extension cord that can be pink or red. Do not rush to rely on your opinion - try to apply a strip of colored fabric to the wall and you will immediately see whether the selected color is suitable and whether to harmonize with the overall setting.
If you decide to do everything just, but tastefully, you can fix the decor on the wire or come up with something original.
Alternative methods
You can find another approach - the wires to mask, and not to hide, and in this help there will be existing elements of the room, for example, door platbands, plinths, ceiling baguettes, as well as heating risers. With the right approach to operation, the wire laying can be made practically inconspicuous, which is favorable at the interior of the room. Usually the low-current wires (Internet and telephone) do not cause difficulties in paving, they can be hidden in plinths, under metal thresholds or in platbands. When laying the power cable, you need another approach.
Problematically stretching the power of power wires, as they are a large cross section and almost always white, which greatly highlights them on the wall background.
Often all the electrocommunications in our time are laid by a hidden method, but due to different circumstances, such a laying option is impossible, for example, when the repair is needed to install additional sockets or switches.
Hide wire in cable channel
Almost always in the house there is a portion of the wiring, which you need to launch into the wall or close using a cable channel, which is plastic box - it will protect the electrical wires from mechanical damage. The box has an attractive appearance and in this case it can be used as a decorative element. This option is also a solution to fire safety issues.
A special difficulty can create a wire laying in the bathroom when the walls and floor of the room are fully lined with a tile. If there is a suspended ceiling in the bathroom, the wire can be hidden in it, and if there is no such possibility, then the cable-channel can be used in this situation.
In the bathroom it is not recommended to install sockets, and if you have no sharp need for this, refuse this venture, limiting the installation of lighting devices. If the socket is needed, then firm about the safety technique, and the socket must be moisture-proof.
Wiring on the floor
It is also worth paying attention to how the wires are made on the floor. To date, special plinths are manufactured, in which a cable niche is constructively provided. The top panel of the plinth is removed, the cable is placed there, then they put it again. The advantage of this method is convenience and work without dust. In such a plinth, you can hide and computer wires, and a network cable.
We often interfere with the wires from various charger. In this case, you can do as in the photo - hide them in a box specially made for this. If you can offer your method, then at the end of the article you can add a comment and attach the photos of your invention to it.
Installation of wiring on the floor
If the wires need to be hidden into the floor, then with the help of a stroke or perforator in the concrete, a shock is made, the wiring is done in the corrugation and stacked into this recess. At the end of the work, the installation place is aligned with sand-cement mortar.
If your wooden floor is in your house, in order to carry out the wiring under it, you have to remove the boards, and the cable is in a metal pipe.
As a rule, the TV is placed on the wall at all in sight, so the wire from the TV will be very noticeable for others. It is best to hide the wire in the wall, and make out rosettes for a TV. For this purpose in the wall of the Stroboresis, and if there is no such, then the perforator is done by the groove, the wires are collected and placed in the corrugation. Then the wires using special fixtures and brackets must be fixed in the stroke and attach.
If you do not have to fully hide the wire, then it can be masked.
All the subtleties associated with wiring in the house are best provided at the stage of repairing the room so that there are no problems later.
Video
Look at how you can hide the wire from the lamp in the plinth:
In this video, it is shown how to make and hide the wiring for home theater:
Photo
In a modern bathroom, there are mandatory lamps, sockets, fans, washing machine, less often - boilers and other household appliances. 20-30 years ago, the wiring in the bathroom was not so loaded as now. However, except for the load, the electricity is also in conditions of high humidity. All this requires special care and compliance with all the rules and rules during the installation of it with their own hands.
The wet floor or wall spend the current, as any moisture is an excellent conductor. So that in the future did not occur in various incidents and injuries, the following rules must be followed:
- Electrical wires are locked only under finishing elements.
- Wiring must be in a corrugated sleeve.
- Distribution boxes, connectors, twists, terminals are prohibited inside the bathroom. Use only one-piece cable slices from an external box.
- It is forbidden to have sockets and mechanisms for adjusting the illumination at a distance closer than 70 cm for the bathroom, sink, tap pipes, shower and closer 90 cm to the floor.
- The sockets are divorced separately from fans and lighting.
- Pay attention to devices, lamps, sockets and switches: they must have an IP 44 security class.
Stages of mounting
Instruments
Before starting work, you need to get some tools, namely:
- stroboresis, drill or perforator;
- screwdrivers of a crusade and a slot type, as well as a screwdriver-probe;
- tape measure at least five meters;
- level;
- chisel with a hammer;
- pliers;
- colelet and knife.
If in some places there is no possibility to use a strokesome or perforator, you can make a shifter (cavity) with a hammer and chisel.
Necessary materials
In order for wiring in the bathroom for a long time, you need to choose quality materials: moisture protection sockets, preferably copper wires with triple insulation and 2.5 mm cross section and other equipment that ensures the safety of the electrical network. Not allowed wires with strong bends and spoiled insulation.
Get rid of the old
Wiring in the bathroom laid more than 15 years ago? It is recommended to replace it with a new one in order to avoid overheating, fire and frequent knitting of the machine. When combining the toilet and the bathroom replace the wires both in the same and in another room. It is likely that the food was supplied separately. Do not be lazy to inspect all the wires.
How is the scheme made?
The correct scheme is a reliable electrician assistant. Think over the installation site of electrical devices, wires, sockets, decide on the type of lighting, in addition to this it is worth thinking about how the room will be heated. Due to the fact that in the bathroom heightened moisture, the wiring must necessarily be hidden.
- In the bathroom it is recommended to do at least 2-3 sockets.
- For the water heater and washing machine, install on a separate outlet for each device.
- Place the switch only outside the room.
- Each group of wires must have separate automation.
- Each rosette is perpendicular to the line, smoothly down.
For hollow walls, which are covered with plasterboard or other panels, the wires must be in the emptiness between the wall and the facing, for the walls that do not have voids under the trim, are embedded.
Installation of wiring
After the walls were marked, and the calculations were carried out, you need to accurately prepare spaces for lamps, switches and sockets. Further, depending on the type of finishes, several options are possible, how to place the wires in the wall:
- There is emptiness between the decorative coating and the wall.
- Between the coating and the wall cable are difficult due to a small gap.
- There are no panels.
The first option involves the presence of voids in which the wires in the corrugated sleeve spent through the drilled holes in the vertical profiles are placed.
The second option involves the shocking of walls directly with the laying cable in the sleeve in the stroke and fixation with its special brackets.
In the third case, the same as in the second, cavities are created, however, they should be such a depth so that the wiring in the corrugated sleeve is fully placed there. After that, the strokes should be smeared with alabastrone and align.
Later, the adjacent is made with the subsequent fixing it with the help of alabaster and attaching triple wires (one lived - grounding, other - zero and phase) to rosettes, lamps and other devices.
Security and grounding
Modern electrical wiring has a grounding and consists of three lived: two of them are zero and phase, the third is the Earth. In ancient times, when the wiring consisted of their two components, additionally grounded the room, conducting a cable with a large cross section from the bathroom to the distribution unit on the staircase. Now the wires are three-core and go directly to the distributor.
Application of Uzo.
The use of a protective shutdown device contributes to security while running electrical devices and is mandatory for connecting to a chain for the bathroom. The introductory shield is the place where the UDO is located. As can be seen from the name, the device turns off the supply of electricity, if the indicators of the outgoing and passing current do not coincide so that the person does not hit the current. Without having experience, do not install this device with your own hands.
Automatic switches
Together with the Uzo put automata. It is not necessary to confuse the UZO with a separate machine, which during closures and overload ceases to carry out the current. In the switchboard, a different number of automata is set depending on the number of electrical appliances: for lighting in any rooms - one, for sockets - the other, etc. For lighting, the recommended power of the switches is 10 A with a load of at least 2200 W per hour. For example, one light bulb consumes no more than 60 W, washing machines - from 2000 W per hour and more, therefore, for more powerful devices, it is necessary to put a 25 A machine with a load of at least 5500 W.
We'll figure it out with the main grounding tire
In new homes or houses with upgraded networks, a junction device is usually installed on a storey box, you can also find the main grounding tire. It is possible to determine that a new system is used, it is possible for a riser: a five-wire cable is derived. The tire is made only from copper and steel. It includes 5 or more places to attach, it is from them grounding wires: one is mounted in the shield, all the rest - to current conductors (may be different). When replacing the old wiring, the phase wire is connected instead of the old, and zero - along with the wires neutral. It is forbidden to connect all ground wires on one bolt (clamp).
For electric floor, it also requires grounding. This is done with the help of the styling of the metal mesh, and the terminal is attached to the grid ground cable.
Safe outlets
The outlets require the installation of a separate UzO with a nominal current of the same or a little more (but not less) than the automaton. With a large gap in the nominal voltage, the device simply will not work.
Modern washing machines with standard power require the presence of 16 ampered outlets of moisture protection type with a ceramic outer surface. Outlets must be equipped with special lids and protected from splashes.
Is it worth using dispensing boxes?
In the dispenser box there are connections of several wiring lines, which are connected by a twist or terminal, from there there is one wire to the shield. It is located outside the bathroom. The main plus is saving cables and material resources. But there is a significant drawback - unreliability, because terminals and twists are poorly tolerated by a lot of voltage.
Emboding of a private house
Electric wiring, installed in a private house, can be grounded by their own hands due to a cable attached to a triangle or reinforcement from three pieces in the ground. After that, the required wire is attached to the welded bolt.
be careful
- Before starting work, always completely de-energize the apartment.
- Use only good and high-quality instruments.
- Be careful, because any emboss can lead to unexpected consequences in the future.
Installation of wiring with your own hands to make each other, but before this you need to study many nuances, ranging from the choice of material and ending with safety techniques. Not having a proper tool, knowledge and confidence, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.
The technology of laying electric heating floor under the tile is quite time-consuming, but still die even inexperienced person. So that the readers "" can independently install the heating cable (or thermomat), then we will look at the detailed instructions with the circuit of the connection and the video!
What option to give preference?
Heating flooring from the network can be represented by heating cable or thermomat. The advantages and disadvantages of each of us were told in detail in the relevant article. Now briefly let's talk about what option it is better to choose.
Electric warm floor cable under the tile cable is cheaper, but at the same time, the calculation of its length and the installation itself is more difficult. It is recommended to apply if it is possible to sacrifice the height of the ceiling (because the screed will be thicker).
As for the heating mat, it has several advantages, because In fact, is an improved version of the conductor. The design feature is that the same cable is already placed on a special fiberglass grid, which allows you to withstand a smooth step between the turns. 
In addition, the convenience of the thermomat is that to calculate the material it is only necessary to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and on the basis of this parameter, select a roll of suitable size.
Which options to give preference to solve you, but we still advise you to use the installation of an electric mat, besides, this option has many positive feedback on the Internet.
If you decide to choose heating mats for mounting a warm floor, we advise you to pay attention to the products of the EKF company, and in particular - to the heat-insulated floor system. You can choose the heating mats exactly under your conditions - ready-made sets differ in size and power. Select a mechanical or electronic thermostat with a weekly programming function. Speaking about the thermodams themselves, I would like to highlight the full screening of current-handed veins, so that there is a uniform heating of the floor surface. You can find more about EKF heating mats by clicking on the link: https://ekfgroup.com/catalog/sistemy-obogreva/sistema-Teplyy-pol..
Technology laying
In this article, we will look at laying a warm electric floor under the tile using a heating cable, as well as a special mat. Preparatory work will be similar, the difference will be only in the main process.
Prepare the surface
First, it is necessary to remove the old floor covering and clean the surface from the garbage. If there are no defects, you can do without a screed (draft). In the event that the floor has irregularities, it is necessary to initially align them with a solution, a thickness of 3 to 7 cm.
Creating a scheme
Before the calculated works, it is necessary to compile a circuit of connecting an electric warm floor under the tile, which is noted the step of laying the wires or heating mat.
- from the walls it is necessary to retreat at least 10 cm;
- in places of installation of furniture without legs, as well as household appliances to lay the material is prohibited (the heat transfer will be difficult, and all the warm air will return back to the conductor, which will cause its overheating and failure);
- it is not necessary to lay the material straightforwardly, you can neatly cut the grid to bend the track in the desired direction (this option allows you to reduce the consumption of electricity, emphasizing the heated only at the necessary sites).
Calculation of material
If you decide to make a warm floor under the tile with your own hands as the main heating, it is necessary to calculate, taking into account that 1 m 2 will require a heater, with a capacity of at least 140-180 W. For auxiliary heating system, you can use power, not more than 140 W / m 2 (you can and 80 W, it all depends on how high-quality the insulation of the room is carried out).
All you need is to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe room (length * width) and take away the area from this value, occupied by furniture without legs and household appliances (because under them to lay the material is prohibited). As a result, you will receive a useful heating area. After that, based on the result obtained, the necessary total power of the heating element and its length is determined. The pole power of one meter of the heating cable may vary from 16 to 21 W / m.
For example, if the room is 10 m 2 and you have chosen a 100 W 2 W / m 2 heater, then the result is the total required power of 1kW. Select the cable 20 W / m, the length of which should be 50 m (1000/20).
The thermomat is chosen according to the same principle based on the useful area and the required power. Additionally, you must purchase a mounting tape, with which the heater will be fastened to the concrete screed.
Checking old wiring
As you understand, for a room with an area of \u200b\u200b25-30 m 2, a sufficiently powerful electric heated floor under the tile will be required, which will have a noticeable load on. You must implement and determine if your wiring is suitable for a new heating system. If it turns out that the diameter lived does not match, it is necessary to be necessary for a new one, more powerful. Also check that the circuit breaker and UzO correspond to the new current load.
Surface thermal insulation
Now go to the installation and the first thing to be done is to warm up the surface under the installation of electric heating floor. This will depend on the efficiency of the use of the system, as well as its efficiency. The best insulation in this case is the penofole - rolled material with a self-adhesive layer and a foil coating. All you need is a mix of jack to smoke the entire concrete surface, after which the joints are flushed with foil scotch. It should be noted that the penofol must enter the walls for several centimeters, to increase the thermal insulation of the room.
If you want to slightly reduce the height of the room, then instead of the foam, you can put another insulation, for example, polypropylene or polystyrene foam.
At the end of the robot, it is recommended to smoke the damper tape on the perimeter of the walls, the purpose of which is to compensate for the expansion of the coating during heating. You also need to put a metal grid on top of the heat insulating layer, which will prevent direct contact with the heater and will simplify the installation of the electric heating floor under the tile. 
Set temperature sensor
To monitor and manage the system, you must install a special thermostat and a temperature sensor. The thermostat is a regulator (mechanical or electronic) with which you can set the optimal temperature mode, as well as the time for switching on / off the system. It is mounted in the wall, next to the sockets.
As for the temperature sensor, it must be installed in the floor. For this, a special shit in the wall from the thermostat is created, which is strictly vertically sent to the overlap. Then the sensor is placed in a corrugated pipe and is carried out to the place of control of the temperature of the electric heating floor under the tile. This place is the middle between the two cable turns, and there should be no intersection nearby. The corrugation protects the sensor from damage, and also allows access to it at any time (for example, when it fails). That end of the corrugation that will be in the screed, it is recommended to fill with a sealant for reliability so that the solution does not get inside. 
Check inspection of the heater
Before carrying out the laying of the cable (or mat), it is necessary to measure its resistance. This value should not differ from passport data by more than 10%. To do this, use a special device - a multimeter (shown in the photo below), which are also defined where the phase, if any. If the resistance corresponds to the nominal, then the installation of electric heating floor under the tile can be installed. 
Mounting cable (or thermomat)
Now that the surface is already fully prepared, it is necessary to secure the heating element. If you use a cable, make a mount using the mounting tape, as shown in the photo:
The distance between the turns should be the same all over the area, otherwise the electric heating of the floor will be uneven. Heating mats lay easier, because The distance between the turns is sustained over the entire length. All you need is to spread the material according to the scheme and correctly connect to the thermostat.
When the installation of electric heating floor under the tile is completed, it is necessary to check the correctness of the connection, measuring the resistance to the multimeter. The resulting value should coincide with the one you measured before laying.
Pouring tie.
In order to make a concrete solution, you need to prepare the following ratio of materials:
- 4 pieces of sand;
- 1 part of cement;
- 5 pieces of rubble;
- 0.6 parts of water;
- 1% of the mass of the cement of a special plasticizer (gives a solution of elasticity).
It should be noted that the amount of water should be small, otherwise cracks may occur in the screed. As for the ceramzite and perlite, they are categorically forbidden to add to the solution, because These materials violate the heat exchange and are one of the reasons for overheating the conductor.
The cake thickness of the screed must be from 3 to 5 cm. Going beyond these values \u200b\u200bis not recommended. After the fill, it is necessary to wait until the solution is completely frozen. Despite the fact that the screed will freeze in a couple of days, its complete drying will occur only after 4 weeks (and maybe more). Until this time, turn on the electric warm floor is prohibited.
We also draw your attention to the fact that the screed is only required if the heating cable is used. The thermomat can immediately after laying serve as a base for tile glue.
Laying tiles
After the screed is captured (2-3 days), you can not lose time to move to the floor trim tile. It is recommended to do this only if you have experience, because you need to ensure that the surface is strictly horizontal. The tile "sits" on a special glue, after which the installation of electric heating floor under the tile is considered to be finished! 
That's all the technology of laying do it yourself. We recommend that you view the video in which you can see some nuances of the event:
Video Installation instructions for warm electric floor
Laying of heating cable
Also read:
The masters "Sedino on the temples" remember how an open wiring was made thirty years ago, saw what changes were made in technology fifteen years ago and can compare with modern ways to lay open wiring. To make you compare with something and make it easier to make decisions, make a brief overview of all existing and existing methods.
It is now so beautifully called, but before it was the only option of open wiring. It was used not only in the bath, but also in residential premises. The wires were recorded on porcelain rollers-insulators.
For such wiring, electrical wires should only be single-core, cups are fixed at a distance of no more than ten centimeters plus one on each turn. Wires had to twist, and this is a long and tedious occupation. In addition, white insulation has become dusty and dirty for a short time, in it very often settled on a permanent residence of various spider bugs.
Today, open wiring described by the described method only large lovers of antiques that do not know what kind of it will have in a few years.
A more successful option, electrical cables were hidden in plastic pipes, which looked much better on the walls. In addition, plastic pipes served as additional protection against mechanical damage.
Disadvantages - the complexity of installation and regulatory service. Electricians are still remembered with how difficult it was to drag cables in pipes, especially if there were turns.
Often the pipes passed out, and after pulling the cables to join the couplings. Another significant drawback is great difficulties during the production of repair work. Due to the low cost, open wiring in plastic pipes is quite often used today.
Open Wiring in Channel Cable
According to most professional electricians - the best option of open wiring. Essentially, it can be called only on cable laying technology, in appearance it is little reminded of familiar options, rather it can be called semi-open.
Manufacturers produce a huge amount of options both by the number of cables and in the method of fixation, overall size and the availability of additional fittings. Benefits include ease of installation, durability, operation of operation, universality of use, the presence of numerous special additional accessories. Additional elements solve issues with internal and external corners, turns, connections of sockets, switches, mounting boxes, etc.
It is on this type of open wiring to focus in the article. Before you directly consider the fixation of cable channels, you should learn a little about their varieties and technical capabilities.
Prices for Cable Channel
cable Channel
Channel species and features
Cable channels are classified for several important features.
| Characteristic | Description | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| At the location. | Can be outdoor, parapety, plinth and trunk. The appearance of each category is maximally adapted to the installation site, can resemble a profile handle. | |
| In color execution. | There are bright, dark and with imitation of natural wood. | |
| On linear dimensions. | Designed for one, two, three or more cables. External dimensions range from 40 × 25 mm to 100 × 60 mm. Can have sharp or rounded corners and enlarged lid sizes. There are options with high lids, their shelves cover the internal channel elements over the entire height - the impression of the monolithic product is created. This not only improves the appearance of electrical wiring, but also increases its protected from the negative impact of external factors. | |
| By the number of locks - with one or two locks. | Two locks more reliably hold the cover from spontaneous discovery, exclude the possibility of deformation of the lid. | |
| By manufacturing material. | Plastic, steel and aluminum. Aluminum are coated with a polyethylene film under various wood species, perfectly combined with the existing interiors of the premises, but at the price are considered the most expensive option. Plastics do not support open burning, it is allowed to use such channels for laying cables to 1000 V. | |
| According to the degree of protection against dust and moisture. | Separate brands of plastic channels have the degree of protection of IP55, which allows them to be used in an open area and in rooms with high humidity rates, protects from multidirectional splashes with water. For a bath, this is a very important characteristic. |
Video - how to choose and install cable channel
The main parameters during the selection of the cable channel are considered a cross section and the number of cables that are planned to be laid on the network. Of course, you need to pay for appearance, try to choose this option that would make the most harmonized with the existing interior of the bathrooms.
Installation stages Wiring in the cable channel
Step 1. Draw a plan for placing electrical networks, devices and equipment.
Take a few options, consider the possibility of increasing the power and the number of electrical fittings. Depending on the maximum total power of all electrical energy consumers, pick up the cable diameter. To facilitate the selection, follow Table number 1.
Experienced electricians do not keep all the meanings in the head, they only remember that 1 mm2 of the copper cable cross sections are designed for 1.3 kW of power at a voltage of 220 V, and 1 mm2 of the aluminum cable holds with the same current voltage of only 0.5 kW. Next simple arithmetic. If a cross section of 2.5 mm2 is indicated on the shell of the copper cable, then it can be used to connect current consumers with a total power of 2.5 × 1.3 \u003d 3.25 sq. Always round with a margin and use such a cable to a power of 3.0 kW.
Practical advice. For a bath, it is enough to buy an ordinary plastic box with dimensions of 40 × 25 mm, a cable is quiet, withstanding power up to 10 kW. In implementations there are cortices made under the ceiling plinth or floor plinth. A great solution, but it needs to be thought out before the finish finishing works of walls or sex. We recommend mounting the central wiring above the floor, and the conclusions under the lighting devices, mounting boxes, sockets and switches to do from below. But this is an amateur, you can use other options for mounting electrical wiring.
You must have both a general concept of electrical wiring starting from the introductory distribution shield and a separate scheme for each room of the bath.
Hardware fasteners Choose depending on the material of the walls. Under the tree, we need self-tapping screws, under drywall special hardware and under the brick dowels.
Each manufacturer of cable channels releases a wide range of challenges: internal and external angles, triangles, plugs, connecting couplings, mounting boxes, sockets, switches, etc. Carefully calculate the nomenclature and the total amount, we advise you to take several pieces to the reserve. They are a penny, it will ultimately be much cheaper than once again go to the store for the acquisition of missing elements.
Step 2. Make marking. For example, we will take a bath, which has completely covered the walls and the flooring is laid. Only one option of open wiring in cable channels remains over the walls. The wiring is better to do near the floor, in this case it is much easier to drill holes and secure the cable-channel. Working under the ceiling all the time with the elongated hands tedious and uncomfortable. Moreover, in the hands you have to keep a pretty heavy drill and a screwdriver.
Experienced electricians on the walls make marking only for mounting boxes, switches and sockets, cable channels are installed immediately without applying preliminary lines. Take a segment of the channel, put it to the wall, install the level (or on the side) level and adjust the spatial position. Next with one hand stick the box, and the two-handed drill drill holes in the bottom under hardware. It is quite difficult, you need not only to have experience, but also be able to optimally organize the installation process. We will tell you how to make a detailed marking of novice, it will help to avoid annoying mistakes.
Prices for methies
set of hardware
How to make the markup of cable channels
You need to have a hydraulic rope, a rope with blue, a ruler and a pencil.
Do not be afraid to use blue - baked lines will be closed by cable channel. Start the markup from the distribution panel, while at the same time consider not only the characteristics of the cables and the placement of sockets, mounting boxes, switches, etc., but also layouts and the purpose of the premises.
Marking and calculations are made, you can start the installation.
Step 3. Fastening cable channels. Methods The fastening depend on the material of the manufacture of walls and the material of the finish cover. Consider in detail each option.
Prices for the level of construction
construction level
Fastening Cable Channels to Plasterboard Plates
Plasterboard plates consist of two layers of paper, between which plaster is located. The material is relatively new and is very popular among professional construction companies - it is easy to work with it, it is very technological, etc. But consumers cannot say about this material so many good words - the strength of plasterboard plates is below any criticism. Remove the paper from drywall and it will turn out, any tangible effort on plasterboard does not remain without visible surface damage. Accordingly, it is quite problematic to fix the cable channels to this material. Apply screws (albeit special) no sense. It is at the time of screwing a little "overdo it", how the carving in the gypsum scrolls and the strength of the fastening approaches zero.
We recommend using only plastic cable channels on such walls, the use of aluminum is very undesirable. Fix plastic needs liquid nails, in the most responsible places you can additionally use special screws.
Practical advice. Due to the fact that plasterboard plates have a decorative finishing coating, it must be checked for adhesion with liquid nails. Not all types of paints and not all types of wallpapers are suitable for gluing. At first, in some secluded place, glue a small piece of plastic box and in a day check the strength of gluing. Everything is fine - you can use this technology.
Liquid nails put on the box on the reverse side with a thin layer, the application strip must be wave-like to increase the clutch area. The glue should be exactly so much so that it does not play the perimeter during pressed the cable channels. To increase the reliability of the attachment, you can additionally fix with self-draws.
Fastening Cable Channels to Brick Walls
A complex and time-consuming option, you need to use a dowel. The advantage of the dowels is high reliability, but in our case no tangible physical exertion on the channels foresees, the advantage becomes unnecessary, and large labor costs remain. How to fix the cable channels on the dowel?
- Sliced \u200b\u200bChannel Workpiece Cut into place of fixation, drill on metal Drill in the bottom of the hole at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 centimeters. Holes drill carefully, in the wall you need to deepen only the end of the drill. In this way, simultaneously make labels of the installation of dowels on the channel and the wall.
- Take the channel, change the drill on the winner, switch the drill from the drilling mode to perforation mode. Winning drill Make holes under the dowel.
Important. Drill carefully, correctly pick the diameter of the drill. It should be several tenths of millimeters less than the dymeter of the plastic element of the dowel. This element must enter a hole with a small force.
- Cut the plastic cable channel, align the holes in it and the wall, insert the plastic elements of the dowels, score metal dowels.
If the wall is uneven, then choose places to drill holes on convex areas, thus it will be possible to avoid the visible deformation of the channel cable. Missed - not a problem. Most metal dowels have threads, they can be unscrewed a little, weaken the force of pressed against the wall and thereby correct the deformation that appears.
In all areas of cutting or docking individual sections of cable channels, you need to fix additional connected elements. This is a general rule for all ways to fix cable channels.
Professional installers for fixing cable channels to brick or concrete surfaces use the pneumatic equipment and special nails. But the pneumatic equipment for nails is expensive equipment, acquire it for one bath inexpedient.
Prices for pneumatic nail gun
pneumatic novels Pistol
Fastening Cable Channels to Wooden Walls
For baths - the most common option, the mount is performed by self-drawn, the length of the self-samples is approximately 1.5 ÷ 2 centimeters. It is possible on a flat plane first drill holes in the cable channel at a distance of twenty centimeters, and then use them for fixing. So easier, but longer. If there is a practice of performing construction work, the screws can be screwed up at the same time in the bottom of the channel cable and the wall.
There may be problems during the laying of open wiring on the walls, upholstered lining. Boards Lining have a profile, mount the screws should be carefully. If the self-tapping screw hit the convex portion of the profile - excellent, you can completely delay it. If you have to twist the self-tapping screw to a concave part of the profile - do not tighten the screws until you stop, make sure that it does not break the linearity of the plastic channel.
We already advised to buy special challenges for passing external and internal angles, laying under right angles, tees, etc. All joints can be styled at a right angle, the slice may not be perfectly smooth. Patch elements will close problem areas, the connection will be beautiful, work is significantly accelerated. Cutting the plastic cable-channel can be with a metal with a special mounting scissors or a round-chloride machine (grinder) with a disc on metal.
And what to do, if for some reason there are no good items, how to cut the channel so that the connection does not get into the eyes?
First, use standard long channels, do not rush to cut them into pieces. You should always have all the segments at hand, among them you can choose the desired length and do not touch the whole. It will be necessary to shift in one way or another side for this to this or another side - there is nothing terrible.
If you need a long time to store purchased cable channels, then put them on a flat plane, do not allow direct sunlight on them. Over time, all plastics under the influence of sun rays are darked and losing plasticity. Do not believe the advertising of manufacturers about "complete sustainability" to UV rays due to modern technologies, various innovative additives do not protect plastic from such effects completely, but only slow down the processes of physical aging.
Mounted Cable Channel
When finishing, when the ceiling tile is installed, it is important to correctly hide the wiring. This will require an electrician service. It is possible to solve the problem of hiding electrical wiring in several methods.
Method number 1. If the selected tile is thicker than the cable itself for two or more millimeters, you should create a stroke on the back of the coating. You need to cut the groove of the V-shaped form. He will hide in itself the wire when the tile is installed. So that the wire is correct in the groove, it needs to be pulled.
Method number 2.. In a place where the electrical wire is laid, you need to install a special plastic box. It is called cable channel. Its thickness must match the thickness of the tile. It is necessary to attach it with the help of dowels and self-tapping screws. After that, the wiring is stacked in the box. Next, it remains only to directly mount the tile.
Method number 3.. Here, as in the first case, shoes are made, but not in the tile, but in the ceiling itself. It is necessary to produce such a procedure before starting installation work. Such electrical work Chelyabinsk requires certain skills, since the perforator is used. When laying the corrugations in the stroke, turn off the power supply.
The depth of the shine should be at least 20 millimeters, and the width is at least 12 millimeters. At the bottom of the shroble, fasteners consisting of a dowel and self-tapping screws with a wire, which will press the electrical wiring to the ceiling.
Method number 4.. This is not the most convenient and aesthetic method. The wires are stacked between the ceiling plates: or in the place where the plates are joined with each other, or in the grooves that are cut on the front surfaces. In order for the wiring not to be in the eyes, the locations of the dock can be painted in the color of the ceiling coating. In addition, if the electrocabel is quite hard if it is laid only in the joints, it will not be particularly noticeable.
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