How to make a circular machine with your own hands. Stationary circular saw with your own hands. detailed instructions

Content:

Circular type machines belong to the class of specialized machining mechanisms, without which no well-equipped home workshop can do.

This sample of woodworking equipment is especially relevant in the conditions of a country house and a country house.

When evaluating the possibilities of purchasing off-the-shelf equipment, you will face a number of problems associated with the inconvenience of handling cheap stand-alone circular saws and the prohibitive cost of professional processing equipment.

The only correct approach to solving this problem is to make a circular machine with your own hands, using materials and equipment available for free sale.

Note! In order to save money in small-sized models of machine tools, an autonomous circular saw is most often used as a cutting tool, which is rigidly attached to the bed.

With the help of a home-made machine, you can saw boards, shave off the slab, and also make bars of the section you need.

If you wish, it will be possible to significantly expand the functionality of your product, providing it with the possibility of processing wood using an electric planer.

Construction requirements

Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare a small sketch, which should indicate not only the location of all structural elements of the future machine, but also their main dimensions. When drawing such a sketch, you should take into account that your circular machine can consist of the following functional units:

the bed, which serves as the basis for the entire product;
tabletops with an industrial model of a circular hand saw installed on it;
remote control panel for switching on and off the actuator (circular saw).

Small-sized table-type circular machine

The specified composition of the machine is typical for small-sized products on a wooden bed. For capital equipment made on the basis of metal profiles (corners), its scheme has a slightly different form. The composition of such a product should include the following elements:

a base of steel frames and brackets, on which a shaft with a drive pulley is mounted in bearing pairs;
tabletop with slots for the processing blade, installed over the metal frame and rigidly fixed to it;
a set of special drive electrical equipment located at the bottom of the bed and providing the required functionality of the device (it includes an electric motor, a starting device and a transformer-converter).

The main requirement for any type of bed is to ensure maximum reliability and stability of the structure. As options for the execution of the machine base, we will consider both frames made of metal profiles (corners) and supporting structures made of wood.

When familiarizing yourself with the requirements for the electrical equipment of a home-made machine, first of all, you should determine the drive power of the cutting tool (or autonomous saw), which for domestic conditions should not exceed 850 watts.

Stationary circular machine

In addition, before preparing a sketch of a future product, such technical characteristics of the equipment used should be taken into account, such as:

Depth of cut, which sets the allowable thickness of wood pieces to be processed on your machine. This indicator for industrial samples of woodworking equipment ranges from 5 to 8 cm, which is quite enough for cutting standard boards and thick plywood.

Additional information: In the event that you need to process wood blanks of greater thickness, it is necessary to provide a special lifting mechanism in the bed, which allows you to change the position of the disc in height.

Before making a capital machine with a separate drive, the operating speed of the rotor of the electric motor should be taken into account. The choice of this parameter is determined by the lumber processing modes that you will most often have to deal with. This can be relatively low for simple cutting of wood pieces, but for a perfectly flat (“clean”) cut you will need a higher speed.

Important! The optimal speed for homemade cutting machines is considered to be a speed that does not exceed the value 4500 rpm... At low engine speeds, the bed can be made on the basis of a reinforced wooden frame, massive enough to prevent vibration of the mechanism.

When drawing up the sketch, the requirements for ergonomics should also be taken into account, implying the convenience of controlling the operation of the equipment, as well as the safety of handling it. They relate to the order of the buttons on the operating panel, the limitation of access to the cutting blade, as well as the electrical protection of the drive or individual control elements.

After taking into account all possible requirements for the future machine, you can proceed to its direct assembly.

Bed based on metal profiles (angles)

The upper part of the metal frame is most conveniently made in the form of a 600 x 400mm rectangular frame welded from 25mm corners. Pipe billets with a length of 220 mm are welded to the four corners of this structure (the recommended pipe diameter is 17-20 mm).

The bed must ensure the rigidity of the machine structure

Two longitudinal angles are fixed on the frame with bolts, which are used to fasten the shaft in the bearing cage.

The distance between the corners is determined based on the length of the shaft, and the bearings used for installation are fixed to them with special clamps.

In order to make it more stable, the lower part of the bed frame is made (welded) from 40 mm metal corners.

A closed bearing is used to mount the working shaft.

Two jumpers of the same material are welded across the frame, which are used to secure the electric motor. There is also a metal platform for the installation of launching equipment.

Bearings are attached to the bed with special clamps

At the corners of the resulting structure, pipe blanks are welded with a length corresponding to the size of the pipes on the upper frame, but with a slightly larger diameter (23-25mm).

Closer to their edge, special clamps (lambs) are made, used to clamp the lifting pipes of the upper frame, which are moved when the drive belt is tensioned.

The procedure for assembling the mechanical part of such a machine includes the following operations:

first, bearings No. 202 are taken and hammered into the working shaft with force;
after that, on the same shaft, a pulley is fixed with an interference fit, previously turned on a lathe and having an inner diameter of the groove of 50 mm;
then a thread is cut at the end of the shaft for a bolt used to clamp the cutting tool (for more reliable fixation, it will be possible to put paronite and metal washers under the bolt);
upon completion of this part of the work, we proceed to the installation of the drive, manufactured on the basis of a three-phase asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5 kW, (1500 rpm). A pulley is mounted on the shaft of such an engine, which has an internal groove size of about 80 mm;
at the next stage of assembling the frame, two finished halves of the bed are connected together (while pipes of a smaller diameter are inserted into larger ones);
at the end of the work, a belt is pulled on the shaft, and then the structure is fixed in this position by means of special clamps - "lambs".

Machine on a wooden frame

The easiest and most affordable way to make a machine bed involves the use of ordinary boards or thick plywood for these purposes. In this embodiment, the actuator is located directly under the table (table top), in which a slot of appropriate dimensions is made for the cutting blade.

The frame made of wood is reliable and easy to manufacture

As an example, we will consider the option of manufacturing a bed with a height of approximately 110 - 120 cm, intended for fixing a hand-held circular saw on it. The length of the countertop of this design can be changed within small limits at your discretion.

Note! The height of the structure, if desired, can be adjusted, taking into account the height of the person working on the machine. And if it is necessary to process very long boards on it, the dimensions of the table top can be increased to the required size. In this case, you have to worry about installing additional support legs.

The most convenient material for the manufacture of countertops is multilayer plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, for these purposes, other materials can also be selected (plexiglass or fiberglass plates, for example). As for such a common material as chipboard, its use in this case is undesirable as it does not provide sufficient surface strength.

To make a machine on a wooden base, you need the following materials:

blanking of sheet iron;
standard sheet of thick plywood;
a pair of beams with a section of 50 × 50 mm;
thick boards with a standard size of 50 x 100 mm;
a steel corner, necessary to increase the rigidity of the fastening of the guides;
a circular saw;
two clamps.

In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which the assembly of the machine is simply impossible:

classic screwdriver and electric drill;
a simple hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw;
measuring instruments (square, tape measure, ruler);
portable milling cutter for wood processing.

In the absence of such a milling cutter, it will be possible to use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine in their household.

Additional Information: Some home craftsmen prefer to make countertops from kitchen tables that have served their time. However, such a structure will not be distinguished by durability, since the source material has been used for a long time in a damp room. That is why it will be wiser to make all structural elements from new blanks, which at the same time will allow you to take into account your personal tastes and preferences.

Countertop manufacturing

Work on the manufacture of this piece of equipment is carried out in the following sequence:
We start by marking a piece of plywood so that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared sheet of iron. After marking, using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, you can cut the plywood blank to the required size. If desired, it will be possible to process its edges with a cutter, although this is not at all necessary (the main requirement for this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).

Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the countertop is carefully processed (rubbed over) with an emery cloth of medium grain size.

Then, on its lower part, the location of the slot for the saw blade is preliminarily marked. To do this, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sole of the circular saw prepared for installation. For the convenience of measurements, the saw blade is simply removed from the saw, after which it will be possible to easily determine the dimensions of the seat.

For the convenience of marking the table top, the saw blade is removed

After completing its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try it on at the installation site. If necessary, the position of the points of its attachment is adjusted (at the same time, the contours of the slot for the saw blade are refined).

The finished plywood tabletop is closed with a steel sheet, which is attached to it with self-tapping screws. Subsequently, it will be possible to apply special markings on the working surface, which allows you to adjust the position of the wood blank during its processing.

Assembling the frame

Both transverse and longitudinal beams of the frame, used as stiffeners, are also mounted on the lower plane of the table top. In total, four such strips will be required:

Two transverse lintels that do not reach the edge of the table top by 7-9 cm on each side.
Two longitudinal bars, the size of which corresponds to the same condition (they should not reach the edges of the tabletop by about 7-9 cm).

Taking into account these restrictions, it is necessary to outline the fixation points of the longitudinal bars and cross-members, in which the latter will be attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws of a suitable size.

When marking points, the extreme of them is selected approximately at a distance of 40-50 mm from the edge of the bar (while the step between them should be about 23-25 cm).

Before the final assembly of the frame, through holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in all component parts (bars and tabletop). On the front side, the fastening elements are installed in such a way that their caps are completely hidden in the material.

To increase the strength of the future frame base, the bars adjacent to the countertop are pre-coated with carpentry glue.

After assembly, the structure is temporarily fixed with clamps, which can be removed after the glue has dried out.

Attaching the support legs

Table legs are made of bars of a suitable section (most often the same blanks 50x50 mm are used for these purposes). The height of the supports is selected for a specific person, that is, individually.

In this case, the fact that it is more convenient to work on a circular machine should be taken into account when the tabletop is at hip level. The shape of the legs before their final installation is being finalized taking into account that they taper towards the supporting part (the interface area with the frame base should exceed the area of the floor support).

To increase the rigidity and stability of the structure, steel corners can be used in it, which are compressed in such a way as to provide additional "spacer" for the base. To secure them, special bolts with washers are used, installed with the caps outward.

Electrical diagram

In the capital version of the design of the circular machine, an autonomous drive is used, which includes an asynchronous type electric motor, the windings of which are connected to the power grid according to the triangle scheme.

Circular machine induction motor connection diagram

To control the operation and ensure the automatic start of the electric motor in the circuit, a magnetic starter is provided, built on the basis of an electronic switch (triac) and a current transformer.

To build a control scheme for a machine on a wooden frame (a variant involving the use of a hand-held circular saw), it will be enough to duplicate the on and off buttons of the mechanism, bringing them out and fixing them on one of the legs of the table top

You will learn more about connecting the machine's electric motor from the video.

Many summer residents and owners of private houses were faced with the need to process and saw boards, plywood and other sawn timber. For such work, you will need a circular, which will not be difficult to complete from improvised means. Such home-made equipment will not be inferior to purchased equipment in functionality and quality of performance, allowing you to save several tens of thousands of rubles on the purchase of ready-made units.

Description of equipment

Hand-made circular saws can be stationary or portable. The design of the simplest circular will include a metal or wooden supporting frame, inside which an electric motor, a power supply control unit, a tabletop and the working saw itself are fixed, which is mounted on the circular shaft or installed through gears and a trunnion mechanism. The saw is located in a slot in the table top, which allows you to easily cut sawn timber, performing high-quality wood processing.

The table-top can be made of lumber or use ready-made metal blanks for this. Flat easel tables are made of wood, from above, such a tabletop will need to be covered with a durable metal sheet... Otherwise, without metal protection, the tree will begin to wear out quickly, and the equipment, with active operation, will last for several years, after which complex and expensive repairs will be required.

First of all, you need to decide on the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you need to saw boards or firewood for the winter, then the simplest installation from a sturdy table with a slot for a disc will be enough.

Some models imply the presence of an additional shaft to which knives, a jointer and a plane are attached. These universal machines are equipped with powerful electric motors, which allows you to perform a wide range of woodworking jobs. When making a multifunctional machine, it is necessary to be guided by high-quality drawing diagrams, which will make it possible to make universal and reliable equipment.

If you need to perform various kinds of carpentry work, then equip the coordinate table with guides. The available stops and guides can be fixed at different angles, which allows not only to ensure the safety of work on the machine, but also to carry out high-quality wood processing, easily changing the blades to saws of various diameters.

The advantages of homemade equipment

Homemade circulars are very popular due to the simplicity of their manufacture, durability and reliability. Today, many summer residents use home-made units, and do not buy expensive equipment in specialized stores.

The main advantages of this technique include the following:

Tool versatility.
The simplicity of its manufacture.
Possibility of significant savings.
Equipment reliability and durability.

The schemes for the execution of stationary and mobile circulars available on the Internet and thematic printed publications make it possible to manufacture equipment for processing both thin blanks and thick lumber. You can pick up the simplest options that do an excellent job with the processing of lining, thin lamellas and plywood.

Features and power

The functionality of the use of equipment will depend on the correct choice of parameters, including indicators of revolutions and drive power. The power rating is influenced by the maximum permissible diameter of the serrated saw. It is believed that to process lumber with a thickness of about 10 millimeters, an electric motor with a power of 1 kW is required. Based on the thickness of the processed and sawn timber, the power of the electric motor should be selected.

The transmission from the drive in a self-made circular is best done with a V-belt. This allows you to ensure the necessary safety in the use of technology. V-belt transmission, when foreign objects get under the saw, will slip on the pulleys, which excludes injuries and jamming of the working disc.

Circular production

Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of a circular machine, it is necessary to think over its device and design, and ideally select a drawing diagram according to which all work will be performed in the future. When planning the manufacture of the bed, it must be remembered that such a structure must be stable and reliable... For production power saws, the base is made of reinforced welded steel structure. For household models, you can use wooden blocks with plywood for the bed or weld the base from a metal corner.

The choice of the electric motor used will depend on what kind of work and what kind of wood is planned to be processed on the machine. The drive can be operated from a single-phase mains or powerful industrial motors are used that operate from a three-phase mains.

You can make a powerful and easy-to-use circular from a motor from a washing machine. It won't be too difficult. Such motors are compact in size, operate on a single-phase network with a voltage of 220 volts, are reliable and capable of operating at high speeds.

One of the most important parts of the electric saw is the shaft on which the working saw is attached. You can use a ready-made shaft from similar equipment or make it on a router from round timber. They grind the shaft on a lathe, checking for perfect centering. Even minimal shaft runout is not allowed, since later it will be impossible and unsafe to work on such an incorrectly centered circular machine. Seats for pulleys and a circular saw should be made on the shaft.

The saw blade should rise up to a third of its diameter above the worktop surface. Otherwise, at a higher saw height, it will be difficult to process wood, and work on such a machine will become simply dangerous. If you need to work with a bar, the diameter of the saw blade will be approximately 350 millimeters. For processing boards, you should choose small discs with a diameter of 250-300 millimeters. The quality of the saw blades used must be given due attention, since in the future a significant load will fall on the minicircular, poor-quality blades will quickly become dull and require replacement.

Materials and tools

Making a circular machine with your own hands will not be particularly difficult. For such work, the following materials and tools will be required:

In each case, the design of the circular will be different, so it is necessary to choose certain components, which will make it possible to manufacture functional and reliable equipment. When using lumber for the manufacture of the base and the work table, the wood will need to be coated with impregnations that protect the material from decay and moisture.

Step by step assembly

You can make a stationary circular saw with your own hands from a grinder and a hand cutter without making any changes to the design of the working tool. The base is made of sawn timber, which makes it possible to significantly simplify manufacturing, eliminating the need to use complex welding equipment. Step-by-step instruction:

This option for making a circular saw will be an excellent choice if you need a tool for cutting boards up to 3 centimeters thick. If you need to make a powerful and multifunctional device for the home, then electric motors with a power of 5 kW or more are used, which allow you to process and saw boards 5-8 centimeters thick.

Making a homemade circular saw is not particularly difficult. You can use grinders or hand saws that are mounted inside the wooden base of the machine.

Some craftsmen make more complex tools, involving the use of powerful electric motors, V-belt transmission and larger diameter saw blades. If you have any difficulties on the network, you can find thematic videos telling how to make a circular with your own hands.

Rip sawing fence.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

For installation on a table, in general, any circular is suitable, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast may crack.

There is another popular way to attach the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - to attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only to me this method did not seem correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not apply it.

Another important parameter of the manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc sawn through to the top of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (160mm Bosh wood disc). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular itself. Conveniently, the disc can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disc is tilted imperceptibly. And all the cuts will be chamfered. It is imperative to check with an instrumental square that the disc is at 90 degrees, relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native platform. If the disc is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the platform, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

I placed a saw socket inside the table, which will now be turned on by the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and can be cut. (made in one evening and one morning).

Sawing without equipment, of course, is possible using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. Pressing the rail on the slide, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut a slat like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thickness.

Skids solve only part of the problem. For rip sawing, you also need a side fence.

I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

Grips the edges with a death grip.

A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of the furniture board.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture board, plywood. It became much easier to carry out all these work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.

In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will redo the side fence for rip sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the blade
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I will make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now, when I saw, the disc throws wood dust in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

A homemade circular saw is a kind of improvised tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks in a domestic environment. In principle, it will not be difficult to make a circular yourself, even if you do not have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. The necessary material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and a steel corner, a rectangular profile pipe and an engine are suitable here. The assembled circular saw can be put on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of one, you will have to build a table for a circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use a unit from an old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.

Manual device from angle grinder

If the farm has a "grinder", then there is no better device for a hand-held circular saw. Not sure how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Do not despair, because its manufacture means only providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of a metal corner of a small section, located on both sides of the saw blade. With the help of bolts and nuts, the corners are connected from the front and rear sides with a transverse bundle, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for a sliding stop, folded in half, is already fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a whole, but in this case, the thickness of the metal strip, ideally, will be at least one and a half millimeters. Further, in the gear case of the future circular, you will have to make a couple of holes for the bolts, for which it is disassembled, and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow a high-quality cut, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be supplied with a circular from the grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The design in shape can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are provided with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to exclude the deflection of the handle during the work of the circular, assembled by hand. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet a little and form a hole for the front bolt of the stop. The uniformity of the gap, as usual, is adjusted with washers.

A thread is cut at the other end of the rod to connect it to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after the assembly of the structure, the second. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this device for a homemade circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how at home you can convert the grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, redoing a circular from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Desktop Miniature Circular Machine

The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing the horizontal segment into two uniform parts, which are fastened with clamps after installation. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the bed on a clamp. The table from the hand-held circular saw assembly can function as a cut-off machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through-cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and for processing larger lumber, you will need a more serious homemade circular saw, which will be discussed below.

Stationary machine

A circular saw, as close as possible to the factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, therefore, before making a stationary circular saw, it is necessary to think over everything to the smallest detail. In principle, a tabletop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the bed, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a shed or closet, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary homemade circular. Below is a diagram on which all the elements and accessories for a circular saw of this type are described in detail.

As can be seen from the figure, homemade circulars of this type have an understandable design, and drawings like the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before making a circular, as well as assembling a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the subtleties of its work and installation.

Circular table

A table for a hand-held circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes converted from a regular kitchen or assembled from beams or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering a table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since an uncoated base is threatened with abrasion in the center from constant friction of lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of cut will be uneven. It is better to make the cross braces that strengthen the sawing table from a steel angle of 60 - 80 mm with a horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. A homemade table on which a circular saw from a circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a stationary position.

Saw blade

The toothed disc must rise above the surface of the circular table by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not cut the tree properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a bar with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, a similar parameter of the cutter should not exceed 350 mm, however, an engine will be required here with a power of 1 kW or more. For workpieces with a diameter of over 150 mm, a mini circular made by hand is unlikely to work. On some factory circular saws, a riving knife is installed behind the blade at a distance of 2 to 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closing of parts of the sawn workpiece, therefore it can be very useful in the case when a homemade circular is being assembled.

Adjustable side stop

It is possible to put a high-quality stop from a steel corner with a section of about 80 mm, which is 3 - 4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the emphasis is fixed on a homemade circular table in a predetermined position with bolts. The adjustment of this element is carried out according to a template placed between it and the cutter.

Shaft

The shaft installed on the circular is the most critical unit, therefore, only a specialist using special equipment should be engaged in turning and testing it together with a disc. A product made from a pipe with a casually fixed circle is excluded immediately, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will turn into major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The optimal solution would be to purchase a ready-made shaft with a seat for the cutter.... It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings with a curved inner surface, otherwise a self-made unit will quickly collapse and a shaft installed on a homemade circular will become unusable.

Broadcast

In our case, a V-belt transmission would be an ideal option, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail is suddenly caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will cause the disc to break, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually chosen on the basis of the engine speed, always taking into account the permissible number of disc revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the higher its speed can be, and the cleaner the converted unit will cut.

Motor

Among homemade devices, the most popular is the circular, assembled from the engine from the washing machine. This choice is explained by the fact that the scheme of its operation is best suited for such purposes. Unlike the collector units that are usually supplied to the power tool, the engine from the washing machine runs at lower speeds, which means that it shows longer operation, has increased efficiency and is not so susceptible to all sorts of blockages. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and working capacitor, therefore it is more economical to get by with a device from a washing machine. That, in general, is all the wisdom.

In the household, a circular saw always comes in handy. Overhaul is a costly and troublesome business. Not everyone can afford to buy an expensive tool for processing wood materials. A hand-made circular saw allows you to perform safe work and speed up the construction process. A hand-made saw has a number of advantages, such as reliability, economy and sharpening for immediate needs.

A circular saw

Purpose of the circular saw

Before you start assembling the machine, you need to clearly define its purpose. A firmly fixed table with a saw slot is enough for harvesting firewood and simply cutting large pieces of wood. This type is common in villages and rural areas, the machines do not differ in safety and increased functionality.

For a more varied range of carpentry work, you will need a better option. The circular must be equipped with a coordinate table with special guides, this allows you to change the degree. Manufacturing small items requires increased safety. Speed control is set, disc change is provided.

Design features of the circular machine

Circulars of any fixed type consist of basic parts.

A table for connecting mechanisms. An assembly compatible with larger motors is preferred with an all-metal table. The surface of the table must be made even with your own hands, for a better product at the exit.
In most cases, the engine is used from what is in stock. Electric motors designed for a long time from the mains will be preferable to collector drives.
The shaft is the most critical unit of the circular. Finished products are used most often, in other cases the assembly is made on a lathe. It is important to calculate the bore holes, to exclude runout.

A table for a do-it-yourself table saw can be used as a cutting machine. The cut cannot be more than 8 cm, so larger work will require a larger machine.

Stationary machine with your own hands

For everyday or one-time tasks, a do-it-yourself circular is quite suitable. Small sawing jobs do not put heavy stress on the disc drive. The compact tool has small dimensions, which makes it possible to remove it after the end of work in a certain place. For an experienced carpenter, you will need to make a large stationary circular.

A stationary circular saw made with your own hands will require accuracy, literacy from the master. Drawings presented in many types of literature will help in the manufacture. It is worthwhile to competently and reverently treat each unit of the unit, because the circular is used at high speeds with a cutting tool.

Circulation table

Saw blade

The design of the do-it-yourself circular should contain a saw blade. The working surface of the disc is set at a third of the total diameter. For example, with a diameter of 210 mm, the disc should protrude 70 mm from the table. Parts with greater thickness will require a powerful motor, from 1 kW. A miniature circular saw cannot do this.

The splitting knife installed on some models serves to prevent short circuits and jamming during operation. Located at the rear a few millimeters from the saw blade teeth. The device may also be needed when making a circular with your own hands.

Adjustable side stop

Any type of work will require an emphasis. The side stop is made from a block of dense wood. In other cases, it is possible to manufacture from a metal corner. The location should be slightly longer than the table structure. The stop is installed using bolts. The template is installed between the table and the cutter, for precise positioning, better tuning.

Shaft

Homemade shaft

The most critical part of the design is the shaft mounted on the circular. A do-it-yourself circular shaft can damage the structure and cause injury. The reason for this is the beating, which cannot be avoided in the manufacture of the shaft by handicraft methods. The production of the shaft should be entrusted to a specialist with good turning equipment. Remember to have a cutter that needs a seat. The holes must be machined and machined symmetrically.

Finished shafts are sold in specialized markets. Preference should be given to parts with a self-aligning bearing. Otherwise, the usual mechanism can soon render the circular unusable.

Broadcast

There are several types of gears that can be used in the design of a do-it-yourself circular:

V-belt transmission;
mechanism consisting of gears.

The preferred option is the use of a belt drive. Using a gear mechanism can result in seizure by foreign bodies and injury to the worker. When choosing the diameter of the pulley, the maximum number of revolutions of the saw blade is taken into account.

Motor

Homemade machines are equipped in most cases with an engine from an old washing machine. The main features are increased service life and efficiency. The revolutions of such engines are not high, which makes working on a circular saw, assembled by hand, safer, more prolonged, and has a positive effect on the result. The use of a special three-phase motor implies a 380 volt network. If one is not available, you will have to use a starting and working capacitor, which leads to additional costs.

Circular saw from a grinder or circular saw

When working with small workpieces, it is enough to do with small circulars. Circular, made by hand from an improvised power tool, you will need a "grinder" or a circular saw.

There are many options for the stationary use of an improvised tool. It is enough to fix the device at the bottom of the table to access the material to the disc. The height is adjustable depending on the workpiece, for safety reasons should not exceed one third of the size of the saw blade. This installation option is not available on the switch, it is necessary to redo the device for convenient operation.

A fairly common option is to use a bed on guides. The uncomplicated design allows the tool to be used at any angle. Consists of two parallel metal pipes or corners on which the saw is mounted.

The hand-made circular saw makes the job done faster and more economically. Such a device will be needed for major repairs and other actions related to cutting wood. The simplicity of the design, the ability to use improvised materials, make the cost almost zero, and do-it-yourself manufacturing allows you to add the necessary functionality for work.

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