Most often, a hipped roof for a house is chosen because of its visual appeal, not taking into account that this design has other advantages: the ability to withstand large wind loads, increase the level of protection of walls from moisture, and allow equipping living quarters in the attic space.
Do-it-yourself four-pitched roof. A photo
Four slopes are considered the best option for regions with strong winds and high rainfall. When deciding to build a hipped roof on your own, it must be taken into account that this design is t Requires accurate drawings and increased attention to measurements and markings.
Preparatory work
The main difference between a four-pitched (hip) roof with four slopes and a design with two slopes is the absence of the need for side gables. The four-slope structure consists of two trapezoidal and two triangular slopes, the latter replacing the pediments.
Under the roof, there can be just an attic or a residential attic. The construction of a hipped roof begins with determining its purpose and selecting materials, taking into account climate features. It is important to take into account the amount of precipitation and the strength of the wind when choosing the angles of the slopes, the thickness of the materials for the wooden components and the type of roof.
Important! The slope of the slopes can vary from 5 to 60
Wooden components should be thicker than for a gable structure. If the slope does not exceed 18 °, roll materials are suitable for roofing. With a slope of 18-30 °, it is better to choose metal or ceramic tiles.
h calculation do-it-yourself pitched roof. A photo
Upon completion of the first stage, an accurate roofing scheme. You need to know what materials and in what volumes you need to buy.
Stages of building a hipped roof with your own hands
For the construction of a hipped roof, coniferous wood without defects with a moisture content of 18-22% is used. First of all, a foundation is arranged that evenly distributes the load on the supporting structures. A layer is laid around the perimeter of the building waterproofing and mounted Mauerlat- a solid beam 10x15 cm or 15x15 cm. Connections are made into an overlay, metal brackets, plates and corners are used to connect the corners.
The next step in building a hipped roof is bed installation. This is a beam that serves as a support for the racks and is located on the base. Next, racks are mounted on the beds (beam 10x10 or 10x15 cm) with a rafter spacing (no more than 2 meters), a ridge beam (10x20 cm) is installed, temporarily based on special racks.
Important! It is necessary to pay special attention to the angle of mounting racks.
When constructing a hipped roof, it must be taken into account that it consists of 4 planes. Trapezoidal slopes require lateral rafters, for triangular - diagonal (oblique). This is a solid beam 10x15 cm or 10x20 cm, which is mounted in increments of 50-150 cm. If necessary, docking is mounted on lining, fixed in several places.
Do-it-yourself four-pitched roof. A photo
At the points where the rafters rest on the base, you need to make cuts and fix the structure with metal elements. From above, the rafters abut against the ridge beam, connected to the uprights with the help of grooves. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to use diagonal supports, struts, steel connecting elements.
Roof installation
The final stage of building a hipped roof with your own hands is the installation of a waterproofing layer, a counter-lattice, a crate (or a solid flooring). Fitted on the rafters waterproofing material. Its purpose is to prevent the destruction of the truss system due to the ingress of moisture from the attic under the roofing material. The film is overlapped and fastened with adhesive tape for tightness.
The next step is the device counter-lattices. This is a bar or board treated with an antiseptic. It is attached to the rafters, allows you to fix the waterproofing material, creates an air cushion between the roofing material and the insulation.
For the crate, dry boards 4-5 cm wide are used, which are attached to the counter-crate at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. If it is not planned to equip living quarters in the attic space, then roofing material is mounted further. 
On device warm attic a vapor barrier material (film, foil, glassine) is mounted on the rafters from the inside with the help of staplers, which prevents moisture from entering the warm room into the insulation. A heat-insulating material with a thickness of 15-20 cm is laid on the vapor barrier.
Benefits of a pitched roof
The construction of a hipped roof allows you to:
- convert the attic space into a residential attic, that is, increase the useful area of the house;
- increase the level of resistance to external influences in the form of wind and rain, thereby increasing the strength of the roof and extending its life;
- make your home look more attractive.
Despite the fact that the planning and installation process requires a lot of time and material costs, do-it-yourself hip roof construction is possible with basic carpenter skills. The household should have: a gasoline, circular saw or a hand saw, a drill, chisels, hammers, a level, a cord, a tape measure. Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully watch the video that is suitable for the content.
A four-pitched roof (hip) is one of the most popular roof structures in the field of private housing construction. The roof of the four-pitched type, in contrast to the gable roof structures, has additional triangular slopes. How to make your own hipped roof? To do this, you first need to study its design features, construction technology. After creating a roof project: calculate the required amount of building material, create drawings with the exact placement of all structural elements, and indicate other points.
In this article
Types of hipped roof structures
- A hip roof is a classic version of a four-pitched roof with two trapezoidal and two triangular slopes.
- Half-hip roof structure - a hip roof, in which the slopes of a triangular shape are shortened. This option is used in the presence of an attic.
- Hipped roof - the roof structure resembles a pyramid, all four slopes are triangular in shape. It is used to cover buildings of a square design, you can make a hipped roof for a gazebo.
Advantages of using a four-pitched (hip) roof
The construction of a four-pitched roof consists of a rectangular base, four inclined planes, slopes, two of which are trapezoidal in shape, and two are triangular, located in the area where the gables are located on the gable roof structure. Attic, dormers, bay windows, cuckoos are installed on the slopes. This gives the roof a special look.
The main advantages of using a hipped roof structure
- Due to the absence of gables, such a roof is more stable than a gable roof against strong wind loads, therefore it is recommended for construction in regions where strong gusty winds prevail.
- A greater number of slopes helps more effectively in terms of the removal of melt, rainwater and snow. On such structures, snow is practically not retained.
- Under this design, you can equip a fairly spacious attic room.
- Another important plus of a hipped roof is the affordable cost of construction due to the use of wood building material for arranging the truss system, on which you can lay roofing at any price.
Creation of a hip roof project
How to build a hipped roof with your own hands? To do this, you must first prepare a design project with drawings and detailed details of its installation. To correctly determine the optimal angle of inclination of the slopes, you need to carefully study the recommendations of the roofing manufacturer, climatic conditions. For example, for slate, the recommended slope angle can be from 15 to 60 degrees, for a rolled soft roof - up to 18 degrees, for tiles - 30-60 degrees.
Important! Of great importance is the amount of precipitation in winter. With intense snowfall, it is better to make the slopes steeper so that the snow calmly rolls off the roof.
Having selected the optimal pitched angle of the roof for your region, it is necessary to calculate the height of the ridge and its other parameters. When calculating the rafter system, it is imperative to take into account the length of the rafters, the cross section of the wooden beam, the size of the run, the installation step.
When creating a hipped roof project, the following loads must also be taken into account:
- the mass of the roofing material used, the coating as a whole;
- weight of waterproofing, insulating coating;
- the amount of annual precipitation;
- wind, snow load;
- arrangement of additional elements on the roof: skylights, lanterns, antennas, etc.
Important! Having calculated all possible loads on the roof structure, it is necessary to add some margin of safety, which will guarantee the stability of the roof in unforeseen circumstances.
Also, all purchased lumber for the construction of the truss system must first be treated with an antiseptic.
truss system
The design of a hipped roof involves the choice of a certain section of the components of the truss system. The cross section is selected depending on the calculation of the expected loads on the rafter system during the operational period. In this case, wind, snow loads, the used angle of inclination of roof slopes are necessarily taken into account.
It is imperative to provide for a margin of safety for the rafters, calculate the step, taking into account their bearing capacity. The design of the rafter system is selected in relation to the parameters of the building: it is recommended to use inclined rafters if there are columnar supports, an internal load-bearing wall. If there is no possibility of forming such a supporting structure, then it is necessary to equip a hanging type truss system. For some types of buildings, both options for truss systems are used.
When creating a project, it is necessary not only to choose the right rafter system, but also to determine the need for additional fastening elements, for example, puffs, braces, which give the structure greater rigidity, prevent it from loosening after long-term operation, and also reduce the percentage of load on the rafters themselves .
Load calculation
Considering in detail how to make a hipped roof on your own, it is recommended to pay special attention to the calculations of possible loads on the roof structure.
Types of possible loads on the roof:
- loads that constantly affect the roof - this is the mass of the lathing, protective materials (waterproofing, insulation), roofing material;
- temporary (non-permanent) loads - the mass of snow accumulated on the roof in winter, wind loads, other environmental impacts;
- additional loads are additional elements fixed on the rafters, for example, a water tank, ventilation system chambers, etc. (additional elements should also be taken into account in the process of creating a project, calculating the truss system).
When designing a rafter system, two calculations are made, one of which is aimed at analyzing the strength (you need to make sure that the system is able to withstand the expected loads). Another calculation is aimed at analyzing the possible deformation of all elements of the roof.
After making all the provided calculations, drawings of the truss system of the hipped (mansard) roof are made. A detailed diagram should contain the dimensions of each component, as well as the method of their fastening.
Today, it is possible to significantly simplify the calculations for the truss system of a four-pitched roof structure using a computer program, which will also help prevent accidental errors.
The final stage in the arrangement of a hipped (mansard) roof is its insulation. For this, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene or basalt wool. Insulating material is placed between the rafters. It is also necessary to put a layer of waterproofing to protect the roof from moisture.
Eventually
A four-pitched roof is a rather complicated structure for do-it-yourself construction. Therefore, before you start covering your house with roofing material on your own, you should thoroughly study the technology of erecting such a structure, consult with experts in this field. From how correctly and efficiently all stages of the construction of the roof will be carried out, the duration of its service life will depend in the future.
Many people like houses with hipped roofs. Despite the fact that they require the most materials, and therefore the most money, they are popular. Firstly, because they give even a simple “box” a more interesting look. Secondly, because they are strong and reliable. And although the truss roof system is one of the most complex, it can be developed and made by hand.
Types of hipped roofs
Four-pitched roofs are the most expensive and difficult to construct. But, despite this, they were and remain popular. And all because they look more attractive than all other types of roofs, have high mechanical strength, and resist wind and snow loads well. A house with a hipped roof or even a gazebo looks “more solid” than with any other.
Even a simple "box" under a 4-pitched roof looks impressive
There are two main types of 4-pitched roofs: hip and hip. Hipped is suitable for square buildings, hip - for rectangular. In a hipped roof, all four slopes look like triangles and they all converge at one point - in the center of the square.
The classic hip roof has two slopes in the form of trapeziums that converge on the ridge. These slopes are located along the long side of the rectangle. The other two slopes are triangles that adjoin the extreme points of the ridge beam.
For all that, there are four slopes in any case, the arrangement and calculation of these roofs are different. The assembly order is also different.
Half hip
The hip roof is much more common - after all, there are much more rectangular buildings than square ones. There are several other varieties of it. For example, half-hips - Danish and Dutch.
Half hip roofs - Danish and Dutch
They are good because they make it possible to install full-fledged windows in the vertical part of the side slopes. This allows you to use the under-roof space as a living space. Of course, compared to a full-fledged second floor, there is less living space, but the construction costs are also not so high.
The slope of the slopes and the height of the roof
The angle of inclination of a hipped roof is determined based on the snow and wind loads in your area. The higher the snow load, the higher the skate should be raised - so that the slope is steeper and the snow does not linger in large volumes. In strong winds, on the contrary, the skate is lowered lower - in order to reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes and, consequently, the wind load.
Even when choosing the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, they are guided by aesthetic and practical considerations. With aesthetics, everything is more or less clear - the building should look proportional. And it looks better with fairly high roofs - 0.5-0.8 of the height of the first (or only) floor.
Practical considerations can be of two kinds. First, if the under-roof space is planned to be used as residential, pay attention to the area that will be comfortable for use. It is more or less comfortable in a room with a ceiling height of 1.9 m. And even then, this is for people of average height. If your height is higher than 175 cm, the bar will have to be raised.
On the other hand, the greater the height of the roof, the more materials will be required for its manufacture. And this is the second practical aspect that needs to be taken into account.
There is one more point that should be taken into account: roofing materials have a minimum and maximum slope angle with which this coating can “work”. If you have certain preferences for the type of roofing material, consider this factor. It depends on what height the truss system of the hipped roof should be raised (relative to the walls).
Hip roof truss system
If they make a hipped roof, most often it is a hip roof. Let's talk about her first. The central part of the truss system repeats the system one to one. The system can also be with layered or hanging rafters. Hanging rafters are installed "in place" - on the roof, two people are enough for such work. Rafter trusses, in the form of triangles, can be assembled on the ground, and then, ready, lifted and installed. In this case, there is less work at height, but in order to raise and install finished trusses, either equipment (crane) or a team of four or more people is needed.
The main differences between the rafter system of the hip roof are in those places where the rafters are shortened (truss half-legs) and the hip is formed - triangular slopes. Diagonal rafters are installed here, which are also called slanting. They rest on the outer or inner corners of the building, they are longer than ordinary rafter legs. Special attention should be paid to the diagonal rafters, since they have one and a half loads (when compared with neighboring rafters). Therefore, the corner rafter legs are made reinforced - they are assembled from two boards, splicing them in width with nails. Also, to support the diagonal rafter legs, additional racks and slopes are installed, which are called a trussed block.
Another truss system of a four-pitched roof of a hip type is different in that the mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the building, and not just along the long sides of the box. This is understandable - the rafters are located along the perimeter, and not just on two sides, as in a gable roof.
Mauerlat- an element of the roofing system of the building. It is a bar or log laid on top along the perimeter of the outer wall. Serves as an extreme lower support for the rafters.
Diagonal rafters
As already mentioned, slanted (corner) rafters carry an increased load: from the shortened rafters of the side slopes and from the hips. In addition, the length of the diagonal hip roof rafters usually exceeds the standard length of lumber - it is more than 6 meters, so they are made spliced and doubled (paired). This solves two problems at once: we obtain a beam of the required length, we increase its bearing capacity. Two paired boards can withstand greater loads than a solid beam of the same section. And one more thing: spliced beams for rafters are made of the same material as ordinary rafter legs. It's cheaper, and you don't need to look for special material.
If spliced beams are used, diagonal rafters are usually insured by installing struts and / or trusses (racks).
- If the length of the beam is up to 7.5 m, one strut is enough, which abuts against the upper part of the beam.
- With a length of 7.5 m to 9 m, an additional rack or sprengel is installed. These supports are placed at the bottom, 1/4 of the length of the rafter.
- With a length of an inclined rafter of more than 9 meters, a third, intermediate support is needed - a stand that supports the middle of the run.
Sprengel- a special system that consists of a beam supported by two adjoining external walls. A rack rests on this beam, supported on both sides by slopes (the slopes are set if necessary).
A truss truss is usually not considered, but is made from the same materials as the truss system. For the beam itself 150 * 100 mm, racks - 100 * 100 mm, for cuttings - 50 * 100 mm. This can be a beam of a suitable section or spliced beams.
Supporting the sloping rafter leg
Diagonal sling legs with their upper end rest on a ridge beam. The exact execution of this node depends on the type of system and the number of runs.
If there is only one run, the consoles are made 10-15 cm longer than the sub-rafter frame. If such an issue is too large, then it is cut. But you shouldn’t make it shorter - growing it is much more difficult and expensive. The oblique diagonal legs will rest at this point.
The rafters are cut at the right angle, joined on the console. Fasten with nails. You can strengthen the connection with metal patch plates.
If there are two ridge spans (they are done if an attic-type living space is planned), the connection method depends on the material from which the rafters are made:
- If spliced boards are used, a truss is needed, which relies on the extensions of the ridge runs. Diagonal rafters are cut and rest on a trussed post.
- If a beam is used, a surf is installed in the place of support - a piece of board with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The board is fastened with nails to two runs, and to this board there are already rafter legs that will form a hip.
The lower part of the rafter legs is cut horizontally and attached to the Mauerlat or strapping board. For greater reliability of the assembly, you can install an additional oblique beam and fix the corner beam to it (in the figure below).
Fastening - nails on both sides, if necessary, can be additionally fixed with wire twists or clamps.
How to attach sprigs and semi-legs
To the installed diagonal rafter legs, on the one hand, shortened rafters of the side slopes (also called half-legs) are attached, on the other - rafters - rafters that form a hip. They must be arranged in such a way that the joints do not coincide. Sometimes for this you have to change the distance between the outdoor rafters (better - in the direction of decreasing the step).
Usually shortened rafters are cut and fastened with 2-3 nails on both sides. This attachment is sufficient in most cases. But, if you want to do it “correctly”, you need to make a “cut” for each rafter - a recess no more than half the thickness of the beam. The rafters are cut, set to the desired position, the desired contour is circled on the beam (an uneven trapezoid is obtained due to different connection angles). A notch is cut out along the resulting contour, into which the half-leg is inserted, after which it is fastened with nails on both sides. This is a complex knot, and it takes a long time to do it. But the bearing capacity of such a connection is much higher. There is another option, which is much simpler in execution, but differs little in reliability.
The best way to fasten sprigs and semi-legs to the slanted beam can be considered to be their fastening on nails with the additional installation of cranial bars (see the figure above). For this, a beam with a section of 50 * 50 mm is used, which is nailed along the lower edge of the beam between the fixed rafters. In this embodiment, the beam becomes an I-beam, which greatly increases its elasticity, and the bearing capacity increases.
How to fix the lower ends of the rafters
The method of attaching the lower ends of the rafters depends on what type of truss roof system is chosen - with hanging or layered rafters, which scheme is used. A system with sliding rafters (usually used for buildings that are contraindicated for spacer loads - wooden, frame, lightweight concrete) is implemented using special metal fasteners. They consist of two parts. One is installed on the mortgage board, the second - on the rafters. Between themselves, they are connected movably - with the help of a long slot or plate.
With such a device, when the load changes, the roof "wins back" - the rafters move relative to the walls. There are no spacer loads, the entire mass of the roof and precipitation is transferred vertically down to the walls. This fastening allows you to compensate for uneven loads that occur with a complex roof structure (with adjunctions in the form of the letter G or T).
A rigid mount can be made in different ways - with a cutout for a power plate / strapping board or with a hemmed support bar. Fastening is usually with nails, it can be reinforced with metal plates and corners.
A connection with a cutout is made if a hipped roof with an outlet - overhangs. Usually the overhangs are quite large and, in order not to buy long beams, they grow them - add boards that are nailed through to the bottom of the beams. This allows you to make overhangs as long as you want without a lot of overspending on materials.
Danish half hip roof
The truss system of a Danish-type four-pitched roof differs from the classic hip roof. The difference in the design of the hip - here, at some distance from the ridge, a supporting board with a thickness of at least 5 cm is stuffed. Diagonal double rafters are attached to this board. How low to lower the base board is your choice. But, the lower the board is lowered, the smaller the angle this slope will have, and the worse the precipitation will go. With a large area of \u200b\u200ba half-hip, you will have to consider the load and select the thickness of the rafters.
But a low-lying support board allows you to put a horizontal window of sufficient area. This is beneficial if a residential area is located under a hip hipped roof.
So that the surf (a board connecting two opposite rafter legs) does not bend from downward loads, a shorty is installed - a piece of the same board, which is nailed to the stand supporting the ridge beam. The same stops are made on the edges of the surf, having well fixed the short ones with nails (the installation step is in a checkerboard pattern in 5-10 cm).
With such a device, it is necessary to strengthen the attachment points of the layered rafters, since the load from them is transferred to the extreme pair of rafter legs. There are two amplification methods:
- The extreme rafters are made double.
- Install struts from double boards. The lower part of the strut rests against a bed or rack. They are fastened with nails, the joints are reinforced by installing scraps of boards.
If the house has a rectangular shape and the hip is not too wide, you can either install struts or make extreme rafters from double beams. Otherwise, the truss system of the Danish-type four-pitched roof is assembled in exactly the same way as described above.
Device 4 pitched hipped roof on the example of a gazebo
For a square gazebo 4.5 * 4.5 meters, they made a hipped roof covered with soft tiles. The slope angle is chosen "floor material", taking into account snow and wind loads - 30 °. Since the structure is small, it was decided to make a simple system (in the figure below). The distance between the rafter legs is 2.25 m. With a rafter length of up to 3.5 m, a board of 40 * 200 mm is needed. A bar 90 * 140 mm was used for the strapping.
They assembled the truss system on the ground, fixed it on the support pillars, then installed a solid flooring from, after -.
First, we assembled the harness, which will be attached to the supporting pillars. Next, they installed rafters that rest on the middle of the strapping. The procedure here is as follows: in the middle we put a rack, on top of which the rafter legs will join. In this version, this rack is temporary, we only need it for a while - until we connect the first four rafters in the center. In other cases - for large houses - this rack can remain.
We take a board of the desired section, lean it against the rack in the place where they will be connected (depending on the desired angle of inclination). We note how it should be cut (above, at the junction and where it joins the harness). We cut off everything superfluous, try it on again, adjust if necessary. Further on this blank we make three more of the same.
Now the hipped roof truss system can begin to be assembled. Most questions arise about the junction of the rafter legs in the center. The best way - reliable and not too complicated - is to take a piece of timber of a suitable section, make an octagon out of it - for joining eight rafter legs (four corner and four central).
The size of the faces - according to the cross section of the cut of the rafter legs
Having fixed all four central elements of the truss system with nails, we perform the same operations with the corner rafters: we take one, try it on, cut it out, make three copies according to the template made, mount it.
By the same principle, we make semi-legs (shortened rafters). If desired, all connections can be further strengthened with corners or metal plates, then the truss roof system will be more reliable and you will not be afraid even in the heaviest snowfalls.
We put the assembled system on the racks of the gazebo, fasten it with nails, corners, and fix it with mowing. After that, you can mount the crate (in this case, solid) and lay the roofing material.
Many are attracted by the spectacular and non-standard look of the hipped roof. Therefore, the question of how to properly build a hipped roof is constantly in the center of attention of those who are planning to build a roof or repair it. But we must admit that in order to build such a roof, you will have to make a little effort.
Everything in construction begins with the planning of the necessary actions, therefore, their outlines on how to make a hipped roof are first betrayed to paper.
Hip roof project: calculation of all parameters
Before creating a project for such a roof, you will need to determine its shape, take measurements and calculate all the necessary parameters. They start building directly, already having in their hands a drawing of the design of the future roof, on which all the required information will be noted in detail - the angle of inclination of the hipped roof, design, length, pitch, assembly order of the rafters, location and number of additional supporting parts and more.
The key to the success of the construction of a hipped roof is in an accurate and detailed plan, so this stage can most likely be considered one of the most important.
The calculation of a hipped roof can be carried out using special programs posted on the Internet. But if you have not forgotten the basics of school geometry, you can do it differently - draw a prototype of your future roof on paper and use the simplest geometric shapes to calculate rafters, beams, the amount of material to cover and much more.
We start with the angle of inclination of the hipped roof
Theoretical first determine the angle of inclination of the four-pitched roof, taking into account the climate characteristics of the given zone, especially since the height of the four-pitched roof also depends on its value. According to the rules, for areas with heavy rainfall, the slope is increased (the consumption of all materials will increase accordingly).
Having determined the slope, the next step is to mathematically derive the height of the ridge by multiplying half the width of the span of the structure by the relative value (I take its value from special tables according to the angle of inclination). For example, for a 30° slope, the value of the relative value is 0.59, at 25° - 0.47.
A four-slope roof rafter is a system consisting of two types of truss trusses: typical trusses with slopes connected at the ridge, and side triangular rafters resting at the top point on the ridge. Thus, at the end points of the ridge, three rafters are joined: one central and two from the main slopes.
Quite simply, you can calculate the central location of the hipped roof ridge in the center: measure the length of the ridge, the length of the walls parallel to which it will be located, and calculate their difference. Dividing the difference in half, postpone the result obtained from the edges of parallel walls.
It is important that a right angle is provided between the ridge and the slats, which automatically ensures that the corner ridges are correctly installed.
location of the skate in the center
The calculation of these parameters of the hip roof can be made easier if you first mark the joints of the walls and rafters. The attachment points of the side rafter triangles can be determined by dividing the length of the transverse wall in half.
Mounting a pitched roof: precision and strength
The installation of the roof begins with the installation of rafters and trusses, according to preliminary calculations and marks. Farms are assembled according to a template. Various additional elements help to achieve the rigidity of each of them, as well as the entire structure as a whole: headstocks, struts, crossbars, trusses with a rack, racks.
How to make a pitched roof will not be too difficult if you follow the finished project and follow the correct order of work.
Work begins with the laying of a block or log Mauerlat structure (in the case of timber rafters) - a more common option in private construction. If it is supposed to use metal rafters, the Mauerlat is made of metal profile material. Mauerlat is securely attached to the walls using appropriate anchors.
It is important that high-quality waterproofing is provided between the base and the wall.
If necessary, a transverse beam is also installed, which will become a support for the uprights and, accordingly, the ridge run attached to them. When installing the ridge, it is necessary to strictly maintain its “horizon” and height, therefore, when installing it, it is imperative to use a plumb line and a rail. Racks under the skate are fixed with jibs.
By installing diagonal rafters, the planes of the slopes of the future roof are formed. The main requirement in this case is the exact same length of the rafters and the perfectly flat plane of each slope obtained. At the same time, the size of the overhang is also laid. Its average value is about half a meter.
In open areas where a strong gusty side wind is possible, it is advisable to increase the size of the overhang (up to 1 m).
Particular attention is required to insert elements in complex nodes. Let's say that three elements are joined at once with the end of the ridge: diagonal rafters (2 pcs.), Central rafters (2 pcs.) And central (ordinary) hip rafters (1 pc.). To perform this knot, a special undercut (double bevel) is made on the ridge beam.
At a further stage, strictly parallel to the ordinary rafters, corner (spiders) are mounted. At the same time, the sprigs of the neighboring, main and hip, slopes must be joined to the rafters in different places. For the joints of the "diagonals" with the sprigs, an ordinary cut or a support beam is used, which is sewn to the diagonal rafters on both sides.
The installation of a four-slope roof also includes the installation of a sheathing under the roofing. Whether it will be solid or sparse from boards, bars or poles depends on the chosen material for the roof.
Roofing of four slopes - what is it good for? The numerous operational advantages of this type certainly outweigh the disadvantages. Is the rafter system of a hipped roof as simple as many beginners in the construction business think? You will definitely find out soon! We will describe the important nuances and features of the stages of the construction of a hip roof in this article.
What you need to know about four-pitched truss systems?
There are two variants of four-slope roofs: hip and tent. The first type has the shape of a rectangular envelope, consisting of two main trapezoidal slopes and a ridge, and two gable (side) slopes - triangles:
A hipped roof is four identical isosceles triangles connected at one upper point (reminiscent of a tent):
Both options provide for the installation of both layered and hanging rafters, which are installed using standard technologies.
How to choose the type of truss system for a 4-pitched roof?
In the absence of a central roof support, the choice is made in favor of a hanging truss system. If for each rafter you can find the upper and lower supports, then you should choose a layered structure. This option is easier and more affordable for non-professional craftsmen. It is only necessary to remember two main conditions: with a rigid fastening of the bottom and top of the stop, a reinforced Mauerlat is needed, since the thrust is transferred to it; when hinged or semi-rigid (for example, the top is hinged and the bottom is rigid or vice versa), the Mauerlat does not need to be reinforced:
The choice of one of the types of hipped roof should be determined by the shape of the house itself. Hip rafters are erected for square houses, hip rafters for rectangular houses. Also, you can find complex multi-pitched roofs of a combined type, which contain both hip and tent elements.
Both hip and tent structures retain the main functions of a gable roof (for example, the possibility of arranging an attic) and look very aesthetically pleasing:
Why is a four-pitched roof more popular than a two-pitched one?
“Why the extra headache and complexity?” You ask: “After all, you can build a simple gable roof much faster and cheaper.” Here, the masters emphasize some important points in favor of choosing exactly four slopes for the roof:
- High wind resistance. The four-pitched roof has no gables, all its planes are inclined towards the ridge. Such a structure minimizes the impact of strong winds and reduces to "0" possible destructive consequences.
- The most successful load distribution. A multi-pitched roof withstands the maximum amount of precipitation, since gentle slopes take part of the main load. Therefore, sagging, deformation and destruction of the truss system, in this case, have a minimal probability.
- The availability of a choice of any method of roof insulation. Straight gables require a special approach when choosing the type of roof insulation, as they are located vertically and are subject to wind blowing. The gentle slopes of hip and tent systems allow you to evenly insulate the roof with any available material.
In addition to the listed "pluses", a roof with four slopes saves heat well, can be lined with any roofing material and always has a neat appearance.
The device of the four-slope truss system
The four-pitched truss structure consists of the following elements: mauerlat, ridge beam, central and hip rafters, slanting legs, as well as beds, racks, crossbars, struts and other reinforcing parts. Let's look at the most basic elements.
I. Mauerlat
Mauerlat is the most important detail of the structure, since the entire truss system rests on it. It is a powerful wooden beam 100x200, 100x250, 100x100, 150x250, 200x200 cm. Mauerlat is made from solid high-quality wood, mainly coniferous species. The rafter system of a hip roof, like any multi-pitched roof, requires a solid fastening of the base bar. The order of installation of the Mauerlat in this case: the formation of a monolithic foundation at the end of the bearing walls with the installation of spiers; laying waterproofing; processing and installation of Mauerlat around the perimeter of the whole house; reinforcement with anchors and other fasteners for maximum reliability of the base.
Mauerlat can be laid on the edge of the wall, or in the pocket provided for when laying bricks on the inside of the bearing walls.
II. Slanted legs
Slanted legs are called four corner rafters, which rest on the edges of the ridge and the corners of the Mauerlat. They are the longest among all the rafter legs of the system, therefore they must have a section of at least 100x150 mm for maximum rigidity.
III. ridge beam
The ridge run is a horizontal beam that connects all the rafters, the top of the rafter system. The beam must be strengthened with racks and struts. The ridge should be located strictly parallel to the plane of the attic floor and perpendicular to the uprights.
IV. rafters
Rafters for a hipped roof are divided into: central (attached to the Mauerlat and ridge); main hip (mounted on the axis of the ridge and Mauerlat); intermediate and shortened (installed on sloping legs and Mauerlat, connect the corners of the slopes).
V. Strengthening elements
Additional reinforcing elements include racks for ridge beams, crossbars or floor beams, struts of rafter legs, wind beams, etc.
Do-it-yourself rafter system for a hipped roof
Consider the phased process of erecting a truss structure. For clarity, we have chosen the most popular option - a hip roof. The hip roof truss system, the diagram of which, step by step, is presented to your attention below:
Step I: Create a project
To depict your version of the hip roof in the drawing, it is necessary to calculate the height, length, slopes of the slopes and the roof area. This is necessary for the clear and high-quality implementation of the project and the selection of the required amount of consumables:
Calculations should begin with the choice of the angle of the roof slopes. The optimal slope is considered to be an angle of 20-450. The slope value should correspond to the climatic features of the region. So, in particularly windy areas, the slope should be made minimal, and for areas where precipitation is frequent and abundant, the steepest slope angle is necessary. In addition to the weather, you need to consider the roofing material that you plan to use. For a soft roof, the degree of inclination should be less, for a hard one - more.
And one more small but important nuance on this issue - it is better to make the slope angle the same for all four slopes. So the load will be distributed evenly, and the structure will be as stable as possible, and the aesthetic appeal will remain “on top”.
Now that we know the angle and width of the house, we can use some simple math to calculate the height of the ridge, the length of the rafters, the posts, and other details of the truss system. When calculating the length of the rafters, do not forget to take into account the cornice overhang (as a rule, its length is 40-50 cm).
The roof area for the purchase of the required amount of roofing material is calculated as the sum of the areas of all the slopes of the structure.
How to draw up a roof drawing?
- We select the scale of the drawing and transfer the dimensions of the house on a scale to a sheet of paper;
- Next, we transfer the selected dimensions of our roof to the diagram: the height of the ridge, its length, the number and size of the rafter legs, struts, racks and all the details, in accordance with the calculations made earlier;
- Now you can count all the necessary materials and start looking for them.
Step II: Getting Ready
To build a roof frame, you will need standard tools and equipment: drills, a screwdriver, jigsaws, hammers, chisels, and more. We already know the required amount of materials for the truss system, so we can make their purchase. Lumber for the frame should be solid, not have cracks, wormholes, have a light shade, no gray or yellow bloom, smell like fresh wood. Wet forest should not be laid on the roof immediately, it must be dried, treated with an antiseptic solution and dried again. Wood moisture should not exceed 20%.
Step III: Mounting the Mauerlat
Mauerlat is the basic part of the entire truss system. It transfers spacer loads to the load-bearing walls of the house. Installing a Mauerlat for a hipped roof is no different from similar structures with two or one slope. This process is described in as much detail as possible in our previous articles.
The base beam, the parameters of which are described above, is placed on the armored belt and high-quality waterproofing. If it is necessary to connect the Mauerlat, then the bars are cut into half the section and overlapped using strong fasteners.
Step IV: Laying the decks or floor beams
If there are load-bearing walls inside the house, then it is necessary to install beds on their ends - the basis for the supporting racks of the roofing system. If there are no more load-bearing floors in the house, then the attic floor is covered with reinforced beams, on which the supports for the roof are subsequently installed, and after that the attic floor pie is laid.
Beams must have a cross section of at least 100x200 mm. The step between them is 60 cm. You can slightly adjust this figure, depending on the features of your home. The distance between the extreme beams and the Mauerlat should not be less than 90 cm. This distance is used for mounting the semi-beams of the cornice overhang (removal). The extensions are attached to the two extreme beams with the help of strong anchors and reinforced metal corners.
Step V: Installation of support posts, purlins and ridge
Racks are an important detail for maintaining the structure, they redistribute the weight of the truss system to the beds or floor beams. Racks are installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the beds. In four-pitched systems, supports are installed under a ridge beam (hip roof) or under corner rafters (hip roof):
Racks must be securely attached to the base with metal plates and reinforced corners. Runs are installed as an additional support for racks. In a hipped roof, the girders are rectangular in shape, and for the hips, these are ordinary ridge girders.
After we have made sure that the supports are installed correctly (with the help of a meter and a level), we can fix the upper ridge beam. It is mounted on vertical racks and reinforced with reliable metal fasteners (plates, corners, anchors and self-tapping screws). Now we take on the corner offsets:
Step VI: Mounting the rafters
First you need to install the side rafters, which are based on the ridge beam and the Mauerlat (or are fixed with the extension). To do this, you need to make a template rafter with the appropriate cuts. We attach the rafter leg to the ridge, mark the place washed down with a pencil, then mark the place where the rafters washed down for docking with the Mauerlat and make gashes. Attach the rafter to the supports again to make sure that the docking is correct and correct the shortcomings. Now this sample can be used for the manufacture of all side rafters. Installation of the rafter legs of the main slopes is carried out according to the general rules described in the device of the gable truss system (see article and video).
The diagonal (corner) rafters are mounted next. Their upper edge is mounted on a rack and joined with the edge of the ridge beam. Before this, measurements are taken and the corresponding cuts of the rafter legs are made. The lower end of the diagonals is fixed in the corners of the Mauerlat:
Since the diagonal rafters are longer than all the other legs, they require additional support. This function is performed by sprengels - support beams that are installed under each diagonal leg, in its lower quarter (this is where the greatest load occurs). Sprengel, as well as ridge racks, are installed on the supporting corner beams located in the plane of the floor beams.
Between the corner ribs, the space is filled with auxiliary rafter legs - sprigs. Their lower part rests on the Mauerlat, and the upper part rests on the diagonal rafter leg. The step between the sprigs should be equal to the step between the side rafters (50-150 cm).
Step VII: Lathing
It remains to complete the final stage of the formation of the roofing skeleton - the installation of the crate. These are boards or bars 50x50 mm, which are attached to the rafters parallel to the ridge run and the Mauerlat. The step of the boards of the crate is 50-60 cm. This is quite enough for laying the roofing pie. When a soft roof is provided, the crate is laid in 2 layers (counter-crate and crate).
Finally, a few videos:
So, we have described the installation of the hipped roof truss system, its basic principles, and even delved a little into some of the nuances. Hip and tent structures - although not the easiest, but quite feasible option for every novice master. Especially if he has good assistants. We wish you success in your work!