How to make a net for fishing with your own hands. How to make a net for fishing, for butterflies, for fish. How to make a baby net at home. To help young naturalists How to make a butterfly net yourself

The world of insects is so wide and diverse that it provides every child with accessible and abundant material for his biological observations. Insects are found everywhere: at the dacha, in the courtyard, among the greenery of parks, on unbuilt wastelands that are densely overgrown with weeds. On forest edges and park lawns, among green foliage and near water surfaces, parallel to our world, there is another, no less interesting world. A world in which the life of baleen beetles and hardworking ants, light-winged butterflies and swift dragonflies, slow caterpillars and bloodthirsty mosquitoes boils ... This world leaves a lot of impressions in the soul of a child.

Hunting for insects is quite an exciting experience. It captures both very young and adult lovers of wildlife. To take a closer look and observe a single insect, a little is needed. The “hunter's” arsenal should have at least a magnifying glass (magnifying glass), a net and a jar with a gauze mesh instead of a lid.

With a magnifying glass and a jar, most often it is not a problem, but a net ... well, it is not always present in our markets. But it doesn't matter! it is easy to do it yourself.

For the base of the net you will need:

thick (3-4 mm) wire,
a piece of gauze
long stick
insulating tape.

An old mattress spring works very well for this purpose. You can look for wire in specialized stores. You can ask around from junk dealers, friends and neighbors ... and you need 1 meter.

On the wire we measure from one end - 12 cm - bend it at a right angle, from the other - 8 cm - we also bend it at a right angle. The rest must be bent with a ring see picture... We also bend the very ends and sharpen them with a file. These “spikes” are required for attaching to a wooden stick. If the stick is made of a different material, there is no need to sharpen the ends.

Ideally, the gauze mesh would not need to be sewn directly to the hoop, but to a more durable fabric that could be put on the hoop with a drawstring. But our case was one of the "unbearable to get married" (our version of the net, see below), so we sewed the gauze directly onto the hoop - enough for one summer.

How to tailor a net bag is clearly seen from the attached drawing.

In old books, it is recommended that the netting fabric be dyed dark green. Explaining this by the fact that in this case, the landing net will not frighten insects. Anything can be. Our net really frightened insects, either with its white color, or with its swift strokes. Then it allowed ... and insects, and us))).

The length of the stick should be comfortable for the "hunter", but not longer, as practice has found out - 130 cm.

It is easiest to catch flying insects, as well as those sitting on a flower, by bringing the net from the side. To prevent the insect from flying out of the net unexpectedly, we advise you to work out a simple trick - turn the net so that the bag overlaps the hoop and the fabric of the bag closes the exit from the net. It is probably not worth reminding that it is necessary to remove the insect from the bag carefully so as not to wrinkle - they are painfully “cut” from a fragile material)).

Catching insects that sit in dense grass (such as nettles) is not easy. But here, too, there is a cunning trick. If you wave the net over the grass with a movement reminiscent of mowing the grass, then after several such movements, you will definitely find your "prey" in the net.

But for catching insects in reservoirs, the net needs a longer one and the stick should be made of a stronger material for such a case. As well as the bag should be made of a denser fabric. This is no longer a simple, but a special net.

Yes! and do not forget to take with you various jars and boxes. Otherwise, you will not know where to put your "booty". Entomologists (insect specialists) usually place a piece of cotton wool soaked in insect killing agent in such a “dish”. But you are not going to write a doctoral dissertation, so the most humane thing would be to release insects into the wild, after studying and admiring them, of course.

In the 5th grade, students begin to study botany. From that time on, they began to take a special interest in the work of the Juniors. The guys willingly work on the school site, conduct observations in a living corner, plant greenery at the school, go on excursions, collect collections and herbariums.

All these works require all kinds of equipment. Some of the inventory can be made in the Skillful Hands circle.

Stretcher

A stretcher for working on the school site for schoolchildren of grades 4-5 is made according to the dimensions shown in Figure 110.

Stretcher handles are cut out of a board, preferably birch. The ends of the handles are slightly rounded. Planks 12-15 millimeters thick are nailed to the narrow edges of the handles, which form the flooring.

To make it more convenient to carry land and other bulk cargo, a side is installed on the stretcher - a box, the bottom of which is the flooring. It is best not to fix the sidewall tightly, but to make it removable. The four sides of the side, cut from a board approximately 1 centimeter thick, are fastened with nails, nailed to the 2 × 2 centimeters in the corners. The lower ends of the blocks protrude beyond the edge of the side. They are inserted into square holes hollowed out in the corners of the flooring.

Hoe and scoop

The members of the circle cannot make metal implements for processing the beds themselves, since this requires processing thick iron. But in some cases, the missing inventory items can be replaced with simplified ones.

For example, to kill weeds on ridges, instead of a "cat" - hoes with curved metal teeth - can be used homemade hoe very simple design. From a plate about 25 millimeters thick, a spatula with a handle is cut out in the shape shown in Figure 111. Four or five nails 5-6 centimeters long are hammered into the spatula along the edges. The ends of the nails are filed, making their points more elongated. The wooden handle of the hoe is rounded.

A scoop, which is often required for transferring seeds and fertilizers, can be made from a small tin can.

The jar is cut in half vertically (together with the bottom). A wooden block of the corresponding shape is attached to the remaining half of the bottom with nails. Previously, holes for the handle are made in it and in the tin bottom. Having cut out a round handle, insert its end with glue into the hole for the handle and fix it with nails, driving them into the end of the block. The edges of the scoop are leveled with a file and the corners are trimmed to give them a rounded shape.

Shredded paper tray

Shallow baths are often required in the living corner and in the classroom of the youth circle - when preparing preparations, rinsing the roots of plants for herbarium, etc. Baths can be made from crushed paper.

A bath template of the required size is cut out of the board (or molded from clay). The template is covered with a sheet of thick paper. In the corners, cuts are made, the cut ends are bent along the sides of the template and glued. The edges of the paper are folded onto the underside of the template and lightly glued here.

1 - papier-mâché bath; 2 - botanist.

Then the template is pasted over with pieces of paper in approximately 15 layers or covered with paper pulp. When pasting the template with pieces of paper, they are dried after laying every four to five layers. On top of the glued-in tray, you can cover it with another sheet of thick paper.

The bath is dried on a template. After that, the glued edges are trimmed, the finished bath is removed and painted on both sides three to four times with oil paint or nitro paint. After each painting, the bath is dried well, then painted again.

Such a bath is not afraid of water, it cannot warp if kept in a very hot place.

Botanist

The plants collected during the excursion for the herbarium are put in a botanical. It looks like a plywood trunk.

The side walls of the botanical are cut out of a thin board or thick seven to nine-layer plywood. The approximate dimensions of the botanical are shown in Figure 112. A strip of thin plywood is glued to the edges of these walls and nailed with small nails. Thin millimeter plywood can be dry bent; three-layer plywood must first be soaked in cold water.

Before nailing a strip of plywood, a rectangular hole is cut out in it - so that it fits in the middle of the wide side of the botanical. A door is made from a sawn rectangle. It is attached to the botanical wall with two pieces of dense fabric that replace the loops, and on the botanical wall a hook bent from a wire is reinforced. It is even more convenient to adapt the old watch strap for fixing the cover. The end of the strap with a buckle is nailed to the wall of the botanical, the other end (with punctures) - to the door. The cut off center of the strap is used for the loops.

The ends of a long cord or ribbon are nailed to the side walls of the botanical, which is worn over the shoulder when collecting plants. The finished botanical is painted with a stain (mordant) or oil varnish.

Instead of a botanical, you can take a herbarium press with you on an excursion and put plants in it.

Herbarium press

To dry the collected plants, use a special herbarium press; it is also called botanical. It consists of two wooden frames with wire nets stretched over them. The usual dimensions of the press frames are 45 × 32 centimeters.

For each frame, two pieces of 45 centimeters long and two - 32 centimeters are cut out. The cross section of all the blocks is 3 × 2 centimeters.

The bars can be connected in the corners in the simplest way - in half a tree. The cut ends of the bars are glued together with carpentry or casein glue and fastened with thin nails, bending their protruding ends. So do the second frame. Meshes are attached to the inner sides of the frames. The edges of the mesh can be covered with strips of millimeter plywood or cardboard.

If there is no ready-made mesh, you can weave it yourself from soft iron wire with a diameter of about 1 millimeter. To do this, two rows of holes are drilled in the frame in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the holes in a row is 15-20 millimeters. Through these holes, the wire is pulled from one side of the frame: the wire is pulled from one end of the frame to the other, here it is threaded into the hole and brought out to the other side of the frame, bent, through an adjacent hole brought back, etc. First, the wire is pulled in one direction - parallel to the long sides of the frame. Then the wire is pulled across the frame, passing it alternately from above, then from below the longitudinal wires. There are other ways to make wire mesh, but the one described here is the simplest.

A simplified herbarium press is made without nets - from plywood. To do this, cut out two plywood rectangles measuring 45 × 32 centimeters. Holes are marked and drilled on plywood. The diameter of the holes is 5-6 millimeters, the distance between adjacent holes is from 10 to 20 millimeters. The more holes, the better the press. Plywood can be taken in three or five layers.

The frame of the mesh press or the planks of the plywood press are stained and coated with oil varnish. Better yet, paint the press with oil paint, enamel paint or nitro paint. The mesh should also be painted if it is not made of galvanized wire, but of plain iron.

The plant is placed in a press between sheets of paper, then the press is strapped or tied with ribbons.

Butterfly net

A landing net is necessary for youngsters to catch butterflies and other insects.

A ring with a diameter of about 30 centimeters is bent from a thick steel wire. For the net handle, a stick 110 centimeters long and approximately 15 millimeters in diameter is picked up or pulled out. Holes are pierced at one end of the stick and the bent ends of the wire are inserted into them. The stick together with the wire is wrapped in this place with thin wire or strong threads, which are greased with glue.

A net bag is cut out of muslin or gauze. A strip of fabric is sewn to the upper edge of the pattern. This strip is wrapped around the wire ring and sewn up. The edges of the pattern are sewn together. The bottom of the bag is semi-circular. You can't make it pointed: insects will crumple their wings.

A landing net is also required for catching fish and insects from the aquarium when it is being cleaned. For such a net made of wire, not a ring is bent, but a square frame with slightly rounded corners. Gauze is taken more rare, but strong, wire - thicker. The bag is cut out the same as for a regular net, but it is made somewhat shorter. The size of the net is set depending on the size of the aquarium.

A landing net with a square hole is also useful for catching aquatic insects in a pond or river, as well as for catching insects living in the grass.

Straightener

Butterflies caught for collection and killed are dried in a spreading machine.

A rectangular plank 1 centimeter or more thick is cut from linden or other soft wood. Two narrow boards are glued to it, the upper surface of which is planed at a slight slope to the inner longitudinal edge. The planks are strengthened so that a narrow groove remains between their thin edges, into which the butterfly's abdomen is laid. The butterfly's wings are neatly straightened on boards, narrow strips of thin paper are applied to them, the ends of the strips are pinned with pins.

The dimensions of the stretcher are any. If it is made long, for the simultaneous drying of several butterflies, then it is better to fix the upper plates not parallel to each other, but at a slight angle, so that the groove is narrow at one end and wider at the other. Butterflies of different sizes, with thin and thick abdomens, can be placed in such a straightener.

Bird houses and feeders

As spring approaches, the pioneers begin to prepare for Bird Day. The task of the "Skillful Hands" circle is to prepare as many birdhouses and other houses for feathered friends as possible.

Bird houses must be made, precisely observing the necessary rules and sizes. Sometimes it happens that the houses, on the manufacture of which the pioneers spent a lot of work, remain unoccupied due to the fact that they were made incorrectly.

Birdhouses and other birdhouses are nailed from planks 20-25 millimeters thick. Planks are planed with a plane only on one side; inside the houses, they should be non-strict so that the birds can cling to them with their claws. It is better to make the roofs of the houses not flat, but convex - from a slab (the so-called boards cut off at the surface of the trunk) so that rainwater flows from them. The roof on all sides should protrude slightly above the walls, most of all in front, above the entrance.

It is very important to correctly mark and cut out the entrance hole - the taphole. Birds will not settle in a house if the entrance is narrow or, conversely, too wide. The notch is made under the roof, at a distance approximately equal to the diameter of the notch. At the birdhouse below the entrance, you can attach a wooden rod - a roost, but this is not necessary. In houses for small birds, there is no need to make any perches.

Another important condition in the manufacture of a bird house is to put it together so that there are no cracks in it anywhere.

At the bottom of the house, a layer of up to 20 millimeters of dry sawdust should be poured; even better if they are mixed with peat.

On the model of a birdhouse, you can make the same houses for tits, flycatchers and redstart-pieds. However, the size of these houses must be reduced: their height is 260 millimeters, their width is 120 millimeters, the diameter of the taphole is 35 millimeters.

Houses for redstarts and gray flycatchers are also made in a different form - as shown in Figure 116 (2) , where the dimensions are also indicated.

Instead of plank houses, you can make nests of the same size. They are hollowed out with a chisel from round logs, without removing the bark from them. It is easier to make a nest box if you cut the log lengthwise into two halves, hollow them out, and then connect them tightly. In Figure 116, the nest boxes are shown next to the wooden houses corresponding to them in shape and size.

Birdhouses are hung near fields and meadows, at a height of at least 8 meters from the ground. Houses for tits and redstart can be reinforced at a height of 3 to 8 meters, near gardens and parks, and even better in the garden itself. Gum is also hung with houses for flycatchers and wagtails - at a height of 4 to 6 meters from the ground. Swifts often nest under rooftops. It is better for them to fix the houses on poles on the roof - at a height of at least 9 meters above the ground. The entrance of all houses should be facing east or southeast.

Birds remaining for the winter need to be fed. For this purpose, it is good to make feeders. The simplest feeder is a plank about 45 × 45 centimeters in size, along the edges of which bumpers 2-3 centimeters high are nailed so that the wind does not blow away the poured food. To protect against snow, it is advisable to cover the feeder with a sloping roof, fixed on posts 10-15 centimeters high.

Terrarium

In a living corner, it is useful for young people to have a small terrarium for observing reptiles and amphibians. We describe, slightly changing the size, a comfortable terrarium designed by N. Belyakov.

The frame of the terrarium is hammered from boards approximately 15-20 millimeters thick, cut as shown in Figure 117. The boards are glued together with nails. The front edge of the upper plank (roof) is cut off at the same angle as the inclined side walls.

Along the front, inclined edges of the side walls, a rectangular ledge is cut out or cut out with a chisel from the inside. From above it is covered with narrow strips of plywood, tin or thick thick cardboard nailed to the edges of the walls. The grooves are obtained, into which the glass is pushed from above. It rests against the upper edge of the front wall, where they also make a ledge, but do not cover it with a strip.

An oval or rectangular hole is cut on one of the side walls. It is covered with a plank nailed on top of the hole with a nail so that the plank can be pushed aside. Through this hole, food is put into the terrarium. You can also pull out the glass for cleaning.

Fig. 117. Terrarium.

From the bottom to the frame of the terrarium, the bottom of thick plywood and bars that serve as legs are nailed. The upper part of the back wall is tightened with a metal mesh or, in extreme cases, with a rare muslin.

The finished terrarium is covered with linseed oil and stain, the outside is painted with oil paint.

In the terrarium for animals, conditions are created that are close to natural: sand is poured, sod, stones, moss are laid, a bath of water is placed, etc.

The size of the terrarium can be increased or decreased.

Incubator

Members of the Skillful Hands circle can make a valuable gift for the youngsters of the village school by making an incubator in which it will be possible to breed chickens. We describe here an incubator made by students of the 6th school of the city of Zagorsk, Moscow region. This incubator is designed for 35-50 eggs. If desired, the size of the incubator can be reduced: make it, for example, 20 eggs.

The incubator box, according to the dimensions shown in Figure 118, is made of thick (five-layer) plywood or thin boards, carefully sealing the joints between them so that there are no gaps. A glazed door is made in the front wall. It should be upholstered with a soft cloth around the edges.

Inside the box, in the middle of its long walls, two strips are nailed. An egg tray is laid on them - a sheet of plywood with holes cut into it in the shape of an egg. The holes should be positioned so that the eggs do not touch each other.

To heat the incubator, it has six 40-watt electric bulbs: two on the lid and two on the bottom, one on the narrow side walls. The lamps are connected to the lighting network in parallel, but have a common switch installed outside on one of the walls of the incubator. High school students should be asked to make the wiring to the lamps and install the switch.

In the incubator, it is necessary to maintain a constant temperature: from the 1st to the 14th day of incubation, it should be +38.5 degrees Celsius, from the 15th day to the end of hatching, +39 degrees. To monitor the temperature, two thermometers are hung on the back wall of the incubator, opposite the glass door, one above the tray, the other below it. The temperature is regulated by turning out one or two bulbs when overheating and increasing ventilation.

Fig. 119. Ovoscope.

For ventilation, holes are cut out at opposite ends of the lid and bottom of the incubator, which are covered with valves - plywood lids attached to the box with hinges or strips of strong fabric. The opening in the incubator lid should be larger than in the bottom: this creates better draft. To enhance ventilation, both valves are opened, to decrease, the upper opening is half-covered or the lower valve is closed. Towards the end of incubation, ventilation can be increased by opening the door for a while.

It is very important to maintain the humidity inside the incubator. To do this, at the bottom of the side walls, there are uprights on which the strips of plywood lie. A strip of flannel or other soft and thick fabric, 15 millimeters wide, is laid on plywood. The ends of these strips are brought out through the holes in the bottom of the incubator and lowered into the jars of water substituted from below. Thanks to this, the fabric remains moist all the time, and the air is humidified. A psychometer can be attached to the back of the incubator to determine the percentage of humidity inside the incubator.

Place the incubator on any support so that the bottom vent is not obstructed. Better yet, install the incubator on runners with rounded ends. By placing a wooden block on one side of the runners, then on the other, the incubator is tilted slightly (by 5-7 °), due to which the slope and eggs are changed. This is important for even heating them. In this case, you do not need to turn the eggs often with your hands, once again opening the door.

To view the eggs inside and monitor the development of the embryo, do ovoscope (fig. 119). It is a plywood box with a light bulb inside and cutouts for laying eggs on top. A light bulb shines through the eggs from below.

Automatic bird drinker

The members of the circle can do a useful thing for the school living area - an automatic bird drinker.

From the scraps of the board, a stand is knocked together, which has the shape of an overturned letter "G". A saucer or frying pan is placed on the bottom plate of the stand. A bottle is attached to the vertical board of the stand with wire or strips of tin so that its neck drops slightly below the edge of the saucer, but does not touch the bottom of it. Water, pouring out of the bottle, will be kept in the saucer all the time at the level of the neck. Air pressure (atmospheric pressure) on the surface of the water in the saucer keeps the water in the bottle and prevents it from pouring out immediately. The surface of the water in the bottle is less than in the saucer. Therefore, the air pressure in the bottle is less. When installing a bottle filled with water, the neck is, of course, first covered.

Later in the classroom, students learn that the mercury barometer works on the same principle.

Seed sample box

Convenient box with many compartments for seed samples can be made from matchboxes.

Matchboxes of the same size are selected, folded in several rows (as shown in Fig. 121) and glued together. For this, cardboard spacers are placed between the horizontal rows of boxes, and the cases of the boxes are glued to them. Outside, folded boxes are pasted over with cardboard walls on all sides, except for the front. The back wall is made slightly higher, and the name of the collection is written on the ledge. The cardboard case is pasted over with colored paper.

Each box is pasted over with thick white paper inside, and a label is glued on the outside of the front wall. A serial number is written on it. A list of seed names under the same numbers can be glued to the top of the cardboard case.

To make it more convenient to remove the boxes from the nests, a paper tongue is glued to each of them or a thread loop is attached.

In spring and summer, it is so great to spend the whole day in the fresh air, because at this time everything around is so pleasing to the eye: an abundance of greenery, flowers, butterflies. By the way, about butterflies! Who among us in our distant childhood did not like to run after them with homemade nets? Imagine with what zeal and enthusiasm your child will do it. There is only one little thing left - to make a landing net!

Of course, the easiest way to buy a net is in a store or on the market, but making it yourself will be much more interesting, especially since there is nothing complicated about it.

If you do not know how to make a butterfly net with your own hands, we offer a short instruction:

You need to start by preparing the handle for the net. It is advisable to find a solid wooden (necessarily as flat as possible) club, 2-3 cm thick. It must be cleaned of splinters.

The next step in designing a homemade net will be the manufacture of a hoop. For this, a tough and elastic steel wire up to 1 meter long is useful. It is best that its diameter is at least 3 mm. It is also important to observe the classic circle shape for a hoop. A circle among all other geometric shapes has the largest area with a minimum perimeter. In addition, the rigidity of a round net will be an order of magnitude higher than a square or triangular net. The easiest way to bend the wire is using a tree trunk. You just need to choose the required barrel diameter.

After the hoop has been bent, it must be attached to the handle of our net. This is best done with soft wire. The main rule: the hoop should be attached to the handle as tightly as possible.

Well, the last step will be making the bag. Gauze or tulle will perfectly serve as a material for it. You can also use a used mosquito net. The material should be cut in the shape of a triangle and sewn. You will get a cone that easily attaches to the hoop.

The net is made by hand. Your children will definitely like to try it in action, and you yourself will not hurt to once again plunge into childhood and cheer yourself up.

In the meantime, look at the video for another option for creating a butterfly net:

ladyadvice.ru

How to make :: butterfly net

Every child is delighted with catching butterflies with a butterfly net. Therefore, to please yourself with your child, try to make a butterfly net yourself. It's so exciting and interesting: you can do something with your hands and spend time with your child. In addition, making a net with your own hands is quite easy and quick.

In order to make a landing net, we need:

Stick with a diameter of 10-15 mm.

Steel wire coil

A piece of gauze cloth.

Here is such a simple set for making a butterfly net.

Take a stick with a diameter of no more than 10-15 mm. The stick should be well processed so that both you and the child do not splinter your hand. If the stick is serrated, grind it, you can cover it with varnish or linseed oil.

Now we are making a steel ring. Cut the wire with pliers. The length depends on the diameter of the ring and on your preference.

The optimum length is 0.7-1m. The wire should be no more than 3 mm. Now make an arc. To make it, just wrap it around the tree trunk. Nets can be of very different shapes: round, rectangular, square. But the most reliable form of the net is a circle. This shape is both rigid and takes up maximum space with a minimum of perimeter. In addition, the circle is also convenient because the fabric does not wear out as much as on a rectangular shape. The presence of hard corners contributes to rapid wear of the fabric. But make the hoop taking into account the fact that there should be ends with a hanging fabric measuring 10-15 cm.

From the remaining ends, you should make two shoulders. One shoulder should be longer than the other. Bend them down perpendicular to the circumference of your shoulder. Bend the ends of these shoulders down. Bend the ends of the shoulders inside the structure. Do this as carefully as you and your child can be seriously injured. In the right scenario, such a structure should lie in the same plane. Attachment to the handle The attachment of the handle must be very strong, as a falling stick will only interfere with your activity with your child. Therefore, make the mount strong. To make such a fastening, you must drill two holes in the handle, the depth of the holes must be at least 1 cm. Only in this way the handle will be securely fastened. These holes must be drilled alongside the shoulders. The ends of the shoulders are hammered into these holes. An indicator of reliability will be considered that the shoulders should fit snugly against the handle. Now you need to attach them. To do this, tie them with wire to the handle. Fasten tightly.

A soft cloth, such as gauze, is suitable for the bag; it must be dense and durable. Make the bag so that it has as few corners as possible. This will be more convenient for you, otherwise insects will clog into the corners. To fasten the bag to the hoop, you need to buy a wide ribbon and sew it on the hoop so that the wire remains inside, attach the bag itself to this ribbon.

The butterfly net is ready!

www.ikirov.ru

Butterfly net

vrednayal5 18-07-2014, 12:40 9 773 Accessories / Wire

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To make a net myself, I was encouraged by the children, who bought nets in the store were either with short sticks, or the diameter of the net itself was too small. So I decided to make my own net.

For making, I needed:

Bamboo stick (support for plants), - net (sold in fabric stores), - very thick and almost non-bendable wire, - thin and flexible wire (not much needed: 20-30cm), - threads and a needle
First, we make a circle out of thick wire, and connect it with 2 ends like this:
Next, we sew this circle with a mesh. I first sheathed and then cut off the unnecessary fabric and gave the necessary shape in the form of a triangle. And I sewed 2 edges of the mesh to make a kind of cap. Then, connecting the edges of the wire, I inserted them directly into the stick (it turned out to have the right hole in it). And she secured the structure with a thin wire, tying a circle of the net to a stick. That is, in principle, all. The advantage of such a net is that you yourself regulate the diameter of the net and the length of the stick.

The dimensions of the finished net in my case turned out to be as follows:

the length of the stick is about 120 cm, the diameter of the circle is about 30 cm, and, accordingly, the length of the entire structure is about 1.5 m. With such a net, children perfectly catch May beetles. In conclusion, I will just add that if you do not want to buy bamboo poles separately, find a suitable stick in the forest. It will turn out no worse.

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usamodelkina.ru

How to make a butterfly net with your own hands

Summer has come, insects have appeared - beetles, butterflies, dragonflies. Does your child have a butterfly net? If not, then the net is easy to make with your own hands. Try making a butterfly net with your child.

We make a butterfly net with our own hands

To make your own landing net, prepare the necessary materials. You will need:

wooden or plastic stick for the net handle;
wire 0.7-1m long;
fabric for the bag.

First, let's prepare the wooden handle for the net. If you have a suitable stick (maybe left over from an old net) with a diameter of 1.5 cm, then measure the length of the handle. Follow your baby's height for a comfortable grip. If the stick is rough, it must be carefully sanded. You don't need splinters in children's fingers.

Now take a steel wire with a diameter of at least 3 mm. From it you need to make an arc for the net. You can make a circle, triangle, star, or any other shape out of the wire. However, the simplest to execute is the round shape.

The hoop must be made taking into account the fact that the ends of the wire should remain, which will have to be fixed on the handle of the net. Bend the wire into a circle, bend the ends perpendicular to the arc.

Remember, this whole structure must lie in the same plane.

Attach a wire arch to the net handle. To do this, drill two holes in the handle. The ends of the wire will need to be threaded through these holes. To prevent the wire circle from dangling, you can slightly deepen the ends of the wire into the wooden handle, having previously made notches there.

To prevent the baby from getting hurt by the ends of the wire, wrap the junction with electrical tape or cloth plaster.

It remains to make a bag. For a bag, it is better to use a fine mesh (nylon filter cloth, tulle, organza or ordinary gauze will do). Cut the bag out of the fabric with a triangle. you can attach the bag to the hoop of the net using a wide tape. Fold the tape in half lengthwise, slide over the hoop, and sew to the bag. Your landing net is ready!

A soft cloth such as gauze is suitable for this. It is better to sew the bag so that there are a minimum number of corners in it. This is necessary so that insects do not clog in them. In order to attach the finished bag to the hoop, you need to take a tape made of strong fabric about ten centimeters wide, fold it in half along the length and put it on the hoop. Sew a bag from the bottom to this tape. The landing net is ready!

Well, and finally, I want to offer you an interesting New Year's video, which can be very useful to you or your child!

When playing large fish, to reduce the risk of stalling and reduce the load on the rod, a special fishing net is needed, which anglers call a landing net or a landing net. They differ in shape, material, size. Some are suitable for predators, others for peaceful, folding - more compact, solid - stronger. Materials for a homemade landing net are publicly available.

Experienced anglers sometimes refuse to buy a landing net. The color of the net, the unreliable connections, or the fragility of the hoops may not satisfy their needs. They do the landing net with their own hands.

Necessary materials

To make a homemade net, you will need various materials and tools. Their list is given in the table.

How to make a butterfly net with your own hands: technology

For the sake of convenience, the presentation is divided into stages.

We make a net for the net.

The simplest option is to take a finished mesh fabric, use a nylon thread to make a bag out of it.

Another option is to weave it yourself. For this you need:

choose a cell size;
using a thread, a ruler, butchers, start weaving in a circle;
when the desired cylinder height is reached, it must be narrowed. For this, the number of loops is reduced;
make the last knot tight;
in the end, it is recommended to attach a small load to the bottom so that the network sinks faster.

We make the head for the net.

First you need to choose between a wire and an aluminum tube, and then choose the diameter. If the choice fell on a pipe, then for an average size of fish, 30 mm is enough.

Then choose the shape and dimensions. The triangular option is suitable for catching a predator. For medium-sized fish, a triangle with sides of 50 cm is enough.

The peculiarity of making a folding net is the need to cut the finished part into two parts in order to make a movable fastening using rivets. YouTube has detailed video instructions.

We make a handle for the net.

It is easier to take a wooden rod, dry it, sand it, cover it with varnish. Or use a rod. Here you can even make a folding landing net handle if you use a composite rod or a telescopic rod.

We collect the elements.

The net is attached to the head of the net with a nylon thread. The head is also attached to the handle with nylon, after which the connection is reinforced with soft wire and electrical tape.

Fishing landing net: purpose and application

The landing net is used to extract fish from the water. This reduces the chances of line breakage, hook or rod breakage, catch failure.

It must be applied in the following order:

bring the fish as close to the shore, boat or fisherman, if he is standing in the water, as the length allows. Only then use the landing net;
lower the landing net into the water, wait for the mesh to submerge;
bring the hoop of the landing net under the fish, pull it towards you and slightly up. You should pull sharply so that the fish does not jump out.

Classifications and varieties

In nets for fishing, three components are distinguished: the head, the handle and the net. Accordingly, it is possible to classify according to the geometry of the elements, according to the material from which they are made.

There are three main shapes for the head of a fish net: round, triangular, quadrangular (square or trapezoidal). They are made most often from light alloys.

It is believed that the triangular shape is more convenient when you need to bring the landing net under the fish, but it is easier to lower the round head into the water, since there is less windage.

Another classification is based on the difference in the materials of the mesh (from fishing line, nylon thread or nylon) and on the size of its cells. For example, the bottom tackle, due to large sinkers, is more confused in large-mesh, and wobblers, spoon baits and other lures for predators - in small-mesh.

Landing net is classified by mesh material. Each has its own advantages. The fishing line is easy to wash, mucus from the scales does not stick to it, but the pike can easily cut it with its teeth. Nylon and nylon are softer and less traumatic for fish, which is suitable for fishing on the "catch and release" principle.

The handle can be of different lengths. Therefore, there are two more classes: short (fishing from a boat or in the water) and long (fishing from the shore). The longer the handle, the greater the risk of breakage.

There are two varieties of nets: non-collapsible and folding.

Non-dismountable landing net

Such tackles are more reliable and stronger, but they are rarely used, because of their length, they are inconvenient for transportation. This also includes short landing nets, but they are not used as often: only when fishing from a boat or in the summer, standing in the water.

Folding landing net

These devices can be telescopic and plug-in, made of carbon fiber or composite materials.

Telescopic nets for fishing are adjustable to different lengths and can be reinforced with threaded clamps. The plug version is safer and more rigid.

Landing net for winter fishing

There is a special version of the net for winter fishing, which was invented in the United States. It differs in the shape of the head: it is elongated, curved in a semicircle. This is done so that the landing net can be pushed through the hole and caught the fish. In convenience, it is much inferior to a hook or hook.

In order to make a landing net, we need:

Stick with a diameter of 10-15 mm.

Steel wire coil

A piece of gauze cloth.

Here is such a simple set for making a butterfly net.

We make a net handle and a ring with fastening

Now we are making a steel ring. Cut the wire with pliers. The length depends on the diameter of the ring and on your preference.

Making a net bag

The butterfly net is ready!