How to make a toilet repair yourself. Where to start repairs in the toilet: sequence of work, expert advice. Dismantling and installation of pipes

Roman Shirokiy

Reading time: 6 minutes

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Hello dear readers! Continuing the theme of repair, I will tell you how to start repairing the bathroom and toilet with your own hands. Surely many repairing these premises are faced with such a question.

If you are the owner of an apartment in which the bathroom is located separately from the toilet, I advise you to start repairs with your own hands at home by working out the same color scheme and style. Even if the rooms are divided, it is one whole. The design is chosen the same or similar in the type of finishing materials used and color.

Toilet and bathroom are kind of twins. I advise you to cover the premises with tiles of the same type, but of a different shade. If you use the same finishing technique, you will end up with dissimilar rooms that will create a different mood. If the walls and floor are made in the same color, but with different finishing materials, discomfort will appear due to the contrast between the rooms.

Video Tips

I think now you understand why it is better to use the same tiles and decor for finishing the bath and toilet. This approach will help you save money. After finishing, there will be scraps, which are most likely to find a place in the second room.

Where to start renovating the bathroom


A bathroom is a room in which a person is left alone with thoughts and emotions. Here he takes a shower, relaxes, rests after a hard day, gets rid of irritation and fatigue, gets a boost of energy.

The described effect will only bring a comfortable and comfortable bathroom.

Bathroom renovation step-by-step plan

  1. Measure the room ... Take a piece of paper, pencil, tape measure and measure the length and height of the walls, the area of ​​the room. Based on the numbers obtained, calculate the amount of materials that will be required to renovate the bathroom.
  2. Imagine a new bathroom ... Decide on the color and type of finishing materials, the location of the bath, furniture and accessories.
  3. Prepare the room ... Remove old finishes from the walls and ceiling of the bathroom. The work is dusty and dirty, so wear a respirator. You will need a hammer drill, spatula, metal brush and other tools.
  4. Primer the walls ... Route electrical wiring and level the ceiling with putty. At this stage, mark the vertical and horizontal lines using a level or plumb line.
  5. Replacing the water supply ... A responsible step, I do not advise saving on money. We are talking about replacing the plumbing, risers and sewers in the bathroom.
  6. Floor waterproofing ... By making a cement screed, water will not seep to neighbors. Treat the joints between the walls and the floor, the entire area of ​​the bathroom with a special waterproofing solution.
  7. For wall and floor decoration ... Try to lay the tiles in the bathroom yourself. If you don't have the skills, ask a tiler for help. Some, for the sake of economy, do not revet the space behind and under the bathroom. Better to cover the planes, and put the bath on the tiles. The screen will help to hide the side and communications.
  8. Door installation ... If you are going to replace your bathroom door, do so before installing the tiles.
  9. Skirting and ceiling ... At the end, along the perimeter of the ceiling, install a decorative plinth, and paint the ceiling with water-based paint. If this option for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom is not suitable, pay attention to stretch ceilings or structures made of plastic panels. It remains to close the seams.

Video instructions

Following the instructions, you will reach the final stage. At the end, install the sink, hang the mirror and lamp, install the furniture. The end result is a beautiful room.

Where to start repairing the toilet


People find it difficult to renovate a washroom. The toilet is an important part of the home, which I advise you to repair thoroughly and correctly, taking into account all the little things. How to start the painstaking process, I will tell you below.

  1. As with the bathroom, I advise you to start repairing the toilet with the preparation of the room. First of all, remove the old toilet, remove old finishing materials from the walls, floor and ceiling.
  2. Bring water and sewerage to the installation site of the new toilet. If the sewage system in the apartment is made of cast iron pipes, replace with plastic products. If pipe replacement is not planned, limit yourself to a plastic supply. It is better to connect pipes using special inserts. Do not forget about the slope that is required for the normal functioning of the sewer.
  3. Pay attention to communications. If they run along the wall, close the box. Be sure to take care that the box is removed or disassembled. This makes it easier to troubleshoot leakage problems.
  4. Place beacons on the toilet walls before plastering. Using as a guideline, line up the walls. After the plaster has dried, lay the tiles.
  5. Switch to the floor. First, make a concrete screed, and after drying, lay the tiles. Do not install the toilet immediately, it will interfere with the work in the upper part of the room.
  6. There are many options for finishing the walls of the toilet. Which finishing material to choose is up to you, but I recommend tiles. If such a cladding is not to your liking, the market offers wallpaper, mosaic tiles, natural stone or wood-like finishes.
  7. Take care of the ceiling. The plasterboard ceiling is suitable for the washroom. It will hide the wiring and ventilation system. If you add a decorative skirting board, you get beauty.
  8. Finally, install a light in the toilet, secure the toilet and attach a paper holder to the wall. I advise you to immediately equip the toilet with shelves for storing air freshener and toilet paper.

Having gone the hard way, in the end you will get a result that will delight you with freshness and originality. But the thought that the author of the masterpiece is you yourself will bring more pleasure.

Where to start repairs in a combined bathroom


The combined bathroom has advantages and disadvantages. The main disadvantage is that the room is available only to one household. Plus - the ability to expand the area of ​​the bathroom. It is easy to put a washing machine or a wardrobe in the combined bathroom.

In modern apartments, the toilet is separate from the bathroom. At the same time, the premises are characterized by a small area and there are often cases when a few centimeters are not enough to install furniture or other object. To fully consider the issue, consider how to combine a bathroom and toilet.

How to combine a bathroom and toilet

This kind of repair, in addition to construction work, provides for "paperwork". According to the rules, redevelopment in the apartment is coordinated with the relevant authorities. In this case, changes are made to the housing plan.

When making a preliminary plan, mark the relocation of plumbing, changes to electrical wiring, and changes to the plumbing system. This is an incomplete list of factors that should not be ignored. The work on combining a bathroom is a small technical part of a huge work.

Once you have approved the plan, switch to repairs. It is better if the household members go on a summer vacation for a while. As a result, they will protect themselves from discomfort, and no one will bother you.

  • Remove the partition between the bathroom and toilet, line up the walls, which are usually extremely crooked.
  • Redo the pipes. If necessary, change their location so that they do not interfere. The same goes for the heated towel rail.
  • The next step is to install electrical wiring. Route cables, locate switches and outlets, and install.
  • Primer the walls and level the floor with a concrete screed. Before laying the floor covering, be it tiles or other finishing material, fill the floor with bitumen. This will reduce the likelihood of neighbors flooding in the event of a leak.
  • Stretch ceilings are a good option for a combined unit. Only entrust their installation to professionals, since the arrangement of the ceiling involves the use of special equipment and skills.
  • Decorate the walls and lay the flooring. To visually expand the space of the room, embed a large mirror in each wall. The combined bathroom will turn out beautiful and original.
  • The final stage of the renovation involves the installation of plumbing, furniture placement, connection of household appliances, installation of bath accessories - hanging soap dishes, hooks.

If you want to achieve results, listen to the recommendations. They will help you complete the repairs quickly and successfully. When the family returns home, the beauty of the combined bathroom will surprise.

The choice of furniture and the layout of the bathroom


I devote the final part of the article to the layout of the bathroom and the subtleties of choosing furniture. If you have finances, organize a separate bathroom in the house, especially if the family is large. As a result, several people will be able to cope with needs at the same time. If you like a combined bathroom, make sure that it has a sliding partition. Use it to divide the room into zones.

The size of the room. To make the toilet convenient and comfortable, allocate a few square meters for the arrangement. No extra space required. Design the bathroom, guided by tastes and preferences, but you should not overdo it with space - 6-10 squares are enough.

Furniture . Before buying furniture, decide what you want to see in the room. Usually this is a set of a sink, a mirror, a pencil case and a floor stand. Sometimes a hanging cabinet is provided. Before buying a bath headset, make sure of the quality. On the surface of the furniture, paint should lie in an even layer.

Fittings. From accessories, choose models equipped with chrome-plated legs, handles and metal hinges. Fittings are also made of plastic, coated with a layer of chrome. Such furniture is not worth buying, since chrome-plated or gilded plastic handles will quickly lose their original appearance.

Sink . Be sure to inspect the sink for chips and damage. Check the integrity of the product by tapping it lightly. Buy a sink that emits a pleasant ringing boldly. A dull sound is a sign of defects.

Bedside tables and wardrobes... When choosing bedside tables and cabinets, be guided by the size of the room, the number of residents and tastes. If there is more than enough space, buy a large set that can fit a hairdryer, curling iron, shampoos and other things. If there are problems with the area, pay attention to a set of pedestals and several hanging boxes.

Shelves and niches. It is not superfluous to equip the bathroom with open or closed niches and shelves. They will help with the storage of bath utensils. Be sure to provide space for clothes and bath towels. A hanger or a set of hooks will help solve the issue.

I hope your day of knowledge was not in vain and you learned a lot of useful information.

The toilet is one of the most visited places in the apartment, where, in addition to fulfilling its main utilitarian function, you can retire and indulge in thought. Therefore, it is important that this room is cozy, clean, comfortable, so that it is pleasant to be in it. In many apartments, there are still toilets of the old building with obsolete morally and physically plumbing and cladding. And new building and finishing materials have appeared in stores, which cannot but stimulate changes in the design of the bathroom. Since repairs involving a construction team are quite costly, and the area of ​​the premises is usually small, it is worth trying to repair the toilet with your own hands - a person "with hands" is more or less able to do this.

Preparing to repair the toilet

First, you need to decide on the idea of ​​the future appearance of the bathroom, as well as on what kind of repairs to be done - cosmetic or major. Redecoration involves only new finishing of the walls, floor and ceiling - for example, you can paint the door, the ceiling can also be painted or hinged, the walls can be primed, putty, painted or pasted over with wallpaper. But if you really start repairing a bathroom, then you should make it thorough, with replacing pipes, coatings and plumbing, and sometimes you can add new elements to the room or move existing ones.

Renovation ideas can be associated with the traditional type of restroom, or they can suggest a new arrangement of plumbing, furniture and communications. In a small room, for example, in a Khrushchev, there will, of course, be fewer options than in a more spacious one in a new house, but this does not matter - with proper planning, every piece of space can be used profitably. You need to choose the right finishing materials and think over the design, which we will talk about below. If there is a desire and space permits, you can install a small washbasin in the toilet - today there is a choice on the market that suits the price and size. It will be useful next to the sink. Installing a corner toilet, especially in combination with a corner washbasin, will significantly free up space, but this will require more manipulation.

In a more spacious toilet, you can put more useful furniture and equipment - a bidet, a washing machine, hang cabinets, shelves, even place decorative items. For beauty and convenience, it is worth considering masking communications and equipping a plumbing cabinet.

So where to start with your own toilet renovation? The procedure is usually standard:

  • definition with toilet design;
  • selection and purchase of finishing and building materials;
  • selection of the type and location of the toilet;
  • replacement of the riser and sewer;
  • cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling from old finishes;
  • laying communications;
  • renovation of floors, walls and ceilings;
  • floor finishing;
  • installation of a toilet bowl;
  • installation of a plumbing cabinet, lighting, other plumbing;
  • other finishing works;
  • finishing or replacing the door.

Choice of design and cladding materials

The interior design of the toilet, depending on the size of its area, should be appropriate: we visually expand a small area, and narrow a large one. You can visually bring too high ceilings. All this is available with some tricks of color and texture combination.

Most often, toilet rooms in apartments are quite small, and still narrow. In this case, dividing the wall decoration horizontally into two parts - upper and lower with a border about half of the wall - will help to visually make it wider. In this case, the lower part should be darker or brighter, and the upper one more neutral and lighter. If the ceiling is too high, then the vertical stripes along the walls will help to visually bring it closer. They can be made solid or in the form of a dashed line, as well as from some of the materials used in flooring or completely different ones, to match the general style.

It is not worth decorating a bathroom in only one color - the view will not be at all what is expected, and it will not add comfort.

It is better to choose materials of discreet, neutral colors with the addition of accessories in similar colors - this is more physiological for such a room, and it will be easier to redo the interior with the advent of new ideas, and it will be easier to correlate with the general style of apartment decoration. Plumbing can be chosen traditionally white or in the color of the finish. Chrome accessories can also act as an extension.

With a larger area, you can give free rein to imagination, especially since modern interior design ideas allow it. Dark or bright colors of the finish will visually narrow the room, while bright accessories will allow self-expression to manifest.

When choosing finishing materials for a bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the room, therefore, such materials should be:

  • moisture resistant;
  • easy to clean, including aggressive agents;
  • do not absorb unpleasant odors;
  • does not take up much space.

The most suitable materials for decorating a toilet with your own hands are tiles, washable wallpaper, moisture-resistant paint, plastic panels.

It is better to choose a tile from a tile, porcelain stoneware, the main thing is that the wrong side of it is white, that is, based on kaolin. It does not have as many micropores as tiles made of ordinary silicates, and does not absorb odors, which is very unpleasant in the toilet.

This finishing material is considered a classic for sanitary facilities, since the tiles are easy to clean, they are strong, moisture resistant, and durable. Its choice in the modern market is huge, besides, you can independently choose various original combinations. But you need to lay the tiles on perfectly flat walls, and the price of such a finish will be the highest of all the options.

Wallpaper for the toilet must be selected moisture-resistant, which will be easy to clean. Therefore, it is better to stop at vinyl, non-woven, fiberglass. A novelty on the finishing materials market is also suitable - liquid wallpaper, which also has the necessary qualities, moreover, it is easy to apply and has a wide variety of colors.

Bathroom paint is one of the budget finishes, suitable for ceilings and walls. It is easy to apply even to a layman; you can add different patterns and designs if you wish. For the toilet, paint on a latex basis, or on a mineral pigment with a microcalcite filler, is suitable. But painting is carried out with perfectly flat walls, which requires preliminary alignment.

Plastic panels are one of the cheapest options for wall and ceiling decoration. They are moisture resistant, quick to install and easy to clean, have a variety of designs, and do not require perfectly flat walls. But given that the panels are mainly attached to the crate, they can steal part of the usable area of ​​the toilet, which in a small room of 1.5-2 square meters will be completely inappropriate.

In addition to the materials described above, you can use a moisture-resistant green gypsum board, plaster, followed by impregnation with a deep penetration primer.

Wooden and MDF panels, paper wallpaper, ordinary drywall, silicate-based tiles (not white on the back), paints with organic pigments and fillers, foam ceiling panels and ordinary concrete floor screed are not suitable for lining the bathroom.

Preliminary cleaning of surfaces and replacement of communications

So, where to start renovating a toilet when the design is thought out and the cladding materials are purchased? Now is the time to start dismantling the old plumbing and coverings and, if necessary, replacing the riser and sewer pipes.

First you need to turn off the hot and cold water, make sure that the water does not flow from the taps, then drain the water from the tank. Then proceed to dismantle the drain tank - the hose supplying water is disconnected from it and from the water pipe, and then the tank itself is unscrewed from its fasteners. After that, you can start dismantling the toilet. If the toilet was fixed to the floor with bolts, screws, then they are unscrewed with a key or screwdriver and taken out of the room. If a concrete solution was used during installation, then in most cases the old toilet is simply broken and replaced with a new one.

It's time to start removing old coatings from floors, walls and ceilings. This is necessary so that the new cladding does not begin to flake off over time, and the old one accumulates a lot of odors. Old tiles from walls and floors are removed using a hammer drill or, if not available, a hammer and chisel. The paint can be removed with a hair dryer and a spatula, or with a drill or grinder with a round metal brush - the top layer of plaster is also removed. A thicker layer of the latter is removed with a spatula, having previously soaked the surface. The same method works for removing old wallpaper.

After removing the old cladding, the surfaces need to be well leveled, take out the debris, brush it again, and it is best to walk with a powerful vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust. After that, a deep penetration antiseptic primer is applied, preferably in two layers - the second after the first has dried.

Consideration should be given to waterproofing the floor in case of possible accidents and water leaks, in order to avoid flooding of the lower floors. The most accessible is a coating waterproofing, applied to the joints of walls and floors with a width of 15-18 cm, a waterproofing tape is glued to it right during drying. After the joints have dried, this mass is applied to the entire floor.

After the above manipulations, you can start replacing the pipes. It is best to replace old metal pipes with propylene pipes - they are more resistant to aggressive substances. It is better to replace the sewer riser completely in the entire entrance, especially if it is old and has been in use for a long time - this must first be organized together with the neighbors. Replacing part of the riser will be much more troublesome. If the installation of water filters and water meters is not planned, then new plastic pipes are simply installed in place of the old ones.

For a more aesthetic look, water and sewer pipes are hidden in a special sanitary cabinet, which is constructed from wooden or metal profiles, leveled and fastened together with self-tapping screws. The structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant green plasterboard, which can be decorated with other finishing materials on top. Separate boxes can be built for the sewer riser and for ventilation, having been equipped with an exhaust fan beforehand. It is imperative to think over the location of the inspection door in order to provide access to the pipes in case of leaks, and just to take readings from the instruments.

Renovation of floors, walls and ceilings. Lighting selection

Do-it-yourself toilet repair after cleaning surfaces from old coatings and replacing communications continues with leveling and finishing the floor.

It is easier and best to make the floor in the toilet self-leveling - for this, a liquid polymer finish is also used. With the help of special tools, the prepared solutions are quickly leveled - one day after the other. Taking into account the area of ​​the toilet, the price of such a finish will be quite affordable.

Self-leveling 3D floors

Ceramic flooring remains one of the best and most practical options for a bathroom, but the installation process is more time consuming. It can be laid on old concrete or new cement screed.

Alternatively, you can lay marmoleum - natural linoleum with bactericidal properties, which is suitable for a bathroom.

The height of the floor in the toilet should be 2-3 centimeters lower than the general floor level in the apartment. This is necessary in order to retain water for some time in the event of flooding, which can save the situation.

Wall renovation can consist of several stages, depending on their initial condition and the desired appearance. If they are uneven, then first you need to align them with putty or drywall sheets (preferably waterproof). Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using special glue, or to a thin wooden lathing, if the walls have significant irregularities. On top of the prepared surface, the selected wall decoration is applied - we talked about it above.

Ceiling repairs are carried out in the same way as in other rooms. Having leveled it, if necessary, with a putty, you can apply paint with a suitable composition, or trim it with PVC panels, having previously attached the lathing. If you wish, you can build a plasterboard suspended ceiling on which LED spotlights will look good.

If we are to bring beauty to the toilet, then we should not ignore the lighting in it. A commonly used chandelier with a light bulb above the door gives out too dim and dim light. A large sconce on the wall or LED spot lighting under the ceiling will look much better. When choosing lamps, you should take into account the overall design of the bathroom and its area - a small room needs bright light.

Plumbing installation in the toilet

The final moment of the repair is the installation of a toilet bowl and other plumbing, if any, in place. Having carefully studied the manufacturer's instructions, you can cope with the process yourself. The floor-standing toilet is installed on a place selected in advance, or on where it was previously, the attachment point is outlined with a marker, holes for attachments are drilled. A new corrugated pipe is being tried on to the toilet bowl and to the opening of the sewer pipe. By attaching the toilet to the floor, you can install a corrugation; all joints should be well sealed with a sealant. Having dealt with the design of the cistern, it is connected to the water pipes.

If a suspended toilet is chosen, then it is attached to a special triangular bracket, which is built in advance. The frame of the bracket is either mounted in a self-leveling floor screed, or attached to the floor with anchor pins. All unnecessary elements are hidden in the plumbing closet.

Once you get the impression that a toilet is being renovated, you can get down to business, while saving money and gaining valuable experience that can come in handy when working on larger projects.

The market for building materials and accessories does not stand still and new options for finishing the premises are constantly appearing. It is because of this that the majority of owners of apartments and private houses have a desire to transform their homes. Today, there are quite a few instructions from the masters that allow you to make such changes yourself. Toilet renovation is where to start.

It is not difficult to make an independent repair of the bathroom if you figure out what materials are needed for this and in what quantity, how to properly install all the elements of the room, etc.

First you need to realize that if you not only do a superficial repair of the room, but also replace all pipes and wiring, then you will need to spend a considerable amount. All construction work carried out by the hired team, as well as design ideas, are quite expensive. That is why it is advisable to try your hand at this difficult task. As in any other type of repair work, changes in the bathroom must begin with the preparation of all the necessary materials, removal of old elements, pipes, cleaning the floor and walls.

Required tools

Instruments need to be prepared for two purposes. The first task will be to prepare the walls themselves, and the second will directly repair.

From building materials you will need:

  1. Screwdriver and a set of bits for it. Alternatively, ordinary screwdrivers can be used. They will be needed to dismantle old equipment and install new ones.
  2. Perforator. It is needed for dismantling concrete baseboards, unnecessary wall sections, as well as for making various decorative elements in the wall.
  3. Gas key. It is used for assembly and disassembly of sinks and toilet bowls.
  4. Brushes and rollers. They are needed for priming or other finishing work.
  5. Spatula for applying glue.
  6. In the case of installing plastic pipes, it is necessary to prepare special tools for cutting and soldering them.
  7. Tape measure and meter for taking the necessary measurements.
  8. The building level is needed to control the accuracy of all work, the verticality and horizontality of the walls and ceiling in the right places.

It is also necessary to prepare other locksmith and construction tools, such as a hammer, files, chisels, chisels, hacksaws and other accessories, if necessary.

Dismantling procedure

When all the tools you need for work are at hand, you can proceed directly to dismantling all old pipes, plumbing and other accessories. First you need to ensure that the water supply is shut off at the main riser.

Then all the equipment, sink, bathroom, toilet bowl, bidet, etc. are dismantled. It is also important to take into account the point that if the family does not move during the repair, then the toilet bowl must be dismantled last, since it will be difficult to do without it. You need to remove it only at the time of the actual work, and at the end of the day, install it and connect it back to the sewer.

Before proceeding to dismantle the sink, you need to make sure that water does not really come in after opening the tap. You should also flush the toilet cistern before proceeding to dismantle it. To properly disconnect and dismantle the sink, you need to know its design features.

All work is performed in the following sequence:

  1. The sinks are mounted on brackets. They are fixed in the wall. Some models also have a decorative elevation, which serves to visually close the drain and water supply pipe. If there is such an element, then the first step is to remove it. It is fixed to the floor with screws or other fasteners. They must be unscrewed.
  2. Next, you need to remove the siphon. In this case, you need to set aside the container for collecting water, since some of it could remain.
  3. When the container is in the right place, you can unscrew the siphon glass to collect water. After that, the container can be removed, and the glass can be screwed into place, since the entire system will be dismantled.
  4. Then all the fasteners of the sink and the hose system are unscrewed, after which the sink is completely dismantled.

After the sink is removed, you can proceed to dismantle the toilet and cistern. When dismantling it, you must first turn off the water and open the tap to check.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair in an apartment is performed in the following sequence:

  1. Dismantling the water supply hose to the tank. After that, the tank is removed from the fasteners, if any, and detached.
  2. After that, a corrugation or other connection that goes into the sewer can be removed from the outlet of the toilet bowl. It is better to discard this element immediately and install a new one.
  3. At this stage, the toilet is dismantled directly. To do this, you need to unscrew the bolts or studs. Sometimes the toilet is cemented tightly to the floor. In this case, it will be necessary to break the entire structure. Even if you try to carefully remove it, in any case there will be cracks, and it cannot be re-installed.

Cleaning the walls

Regardless of the chosen finishing material, the old coating must be cleaned. If a tile was installed, it is also advisable to replace it, since over a long time of operation it has already lost its aesthetic appearance, saturated with various odors that may remain in the bathroom after the repair.

Also, cleaning must be done for the reason that the old surface cannot be treated with a primer, and even if this is done, then as a result the new coating will peel off. It is better to remove old tiles with a punch. equipped with a nozzle in the form of a chisel-blade. Painted surfaces can be cleaned with a construction hair dryer and a spatula. You can also use a metal brush and sander with coarse sandpaper for this purpose.

If plaster was previously applied to the wall, then it must first be soaked with water, and then removed with a thick spatula (at least 2 mm). Wallpaper is dismantled in the same way.

After cleaning the walls and ceiling from the old finish, you need to proceed to dismantling the floor. Work can be performed in the same way as dismantling wall tiles - using a perforator. But you can also use a chisel with a hammer. This option is more time consuming and time consuming.

After all the decorative coating has been removed, you must once again make sure that the walls are even. In the right places, clean the surface with a grinder with a metal brush.

Priming and waterproofing

After cleaning the walls, it is necessary to proceed to the priming work. First you need to take out the garbage from the room. Dust is best collected with a vacuum cleaner.

Next, you need to treat the walls with an antiseptic primer. This will allow good adhesion to the new trim material. Also, mold will not develop. The primer must be applied in two layers.... The second can be applied only after the first is completely dry.

If the second coat of primer is dry, you can proceed to waterproofing the floor. Due to the fact that various elements of communication (water supply and pipes) pass through the toilet, it is necessary to carefully consider the waterproofing system. Otherwise, there is the possibility of flooding the neighbors from below.

There are many ways to do this. The most effective and simplest way can be considered the use of coating waterproofing. It is applied along the lower joints of the walls and floor in strips of 20 cm each (on the floor and on the wall). A waterproofing tape is laid on top of the coating. It will serve as additional protection against leakage in the event of an unforeseen situation.

After the joints of the room have been worked out, the coating is carried out all over the floor. You need to give it time to dry. Only then can all work be continued. When the waterproofing process is completed, you need to proceed to dismantling the old and installing new pipes.

Replacing pipes

If we are talking about a major overhaul of the toilet, then it is better to replace all the old pipes with new ones. It is especially necessary to do this if the sewerage and piping system of the house has not been repaired for a long time.

It is better to replace metal pipes with plastic or metal-plastic ones. But first you should dismantle the old ones. This can be done with a gas wrench. Sometimes you may need to cut the pipe with a grinder.

If there is no general concept of how to make repairs in the toilet with your own hands, and in particular, to make the layout of the pipeline, then it is better to invite a specialist for these purposes. He will do it much better. In this case, many factors must be taken into account, such as the location of the water meter, taps, risers.

It is better if in an apartment building all riser pipes are completely replaced. Thus, all residents of the house will be able to connect to the riser when replacing pipes in the apartment.

Ceiling and floor treatment

You can use different materials for finishing work in the toilet. The main thing is that they are moisture resistant, durable and not exposed to chemicals when washing. For these purposes, you can use ceramic tiles, special plaster, washable wallpaper, PVC panels, etc.

For the floor, it is advisable to use ceramic tiles for decoration. It will be easier to repair the toilet with your own hands in this way, since the tiles are easy to lay. There are also innovative options - the so-called 3D floors. Due to the peculiarities of the coloring, a certain volume is created.

Installing accessories

After the completion of the finishing stage, the stage of installing the toilet, sink and other bathroom accessories begins. Due to the fact that the toilet is the most important element of the room, it must be installed first.

First, you need to mark its location. The toilet is placed on the floor and with a pencil or marker you need to circle the area in contact with the floor. Also note where the bolt holes are to be drilled.

Further, in the marks made, holes are drilled for bolts with anchors. After that, the toilet is set in place and screwed tightly to the floor. Often, decorative caps are also sold complete with bolts.

They will close the head of the bolts and give a more aesthetic appearance to the bathroom, after which it remains only to connect the corrugated pipe to the toilet, which leads to the sewer, and install the cistern. The latter must also be connected to the water supply. To create a more attractive appearance, the gap between the floor and the toilet can be sealed with a sealant. Thus, you can quickly and inexpensively make the main toilet accessory - the toilet.

Installing a small and inexpensive washbasin is ideal for confined spaces. It is better to choose a model with a small pedestal. This addition will hide all the flaws, pipes for drainage and water intake. Before fixing the sink to the wall, flexible hoses must be connected to it. Here you need to choose an expensive option, since the hoses often crack. After installing the sink, it will not be very convenient to do this procedure.

Thus, making budget repairs in the toilet with your own hands is not so difficult. Of course, there are some tasks that cannot be accomplished independently without experience. But if you use the instructions from specialists, then it will be easier to make such a repair. Plus, it's pretty cheap.

Have you decided to repair the toilet in the apartment yourself? Start with an estimate. Decide what exactly you want to change and estimate how much it costs. If your desires coincide with your financial capabilities, feel free to get to work!

Where to start repairing a toilet


Before starting repairs, it is necessary to remove the old plumbing from the premises.

As a rule, people think about repairing a toilet a few years, or even decades after they started living in an apartment. This means that it makes sense to update absolutely all positions:

  • if necessary, replace the sewer and water pipes,
  • replace the toilet and cistern,
  • waterproof the ceiling,
  • waterproof the floor,
  • align and finish the ceiling, walls and floor,

Before making repairs it is necessary:

  • clean up old plumbing,
  • or dismantle old tiles from walls and floors,
  • clear the concrete from the ceiling.

Plumbing repair


The most reliable option is metal-plastic pipes. They have the longest lifespan

If the pipes in your toilet are in "clamps", if they are rusted, and the neighbors from below periodically complain about wet spots on the ceiling, then there is a need to replace old pipes. It is best to replace them with modern metal-plastic ones. Today they are the most reliable and have the longest service life in comparison with others.

It is better to install modern ball valves as a valve. They are also characterized by increased reliability.

To protect the water supply system from harmful impurities and debris, it is recommended to install a water filter in front of the valves.

Sewer pipes are usually hidden by a bezel. Do not forget to leave space for installing a plumbing hatch. Its optimal size is from 50 to 70 in length and width. But anyway the hatch must provide free access to all valves in the apartment, which are usually located in the toilet.

Waterproofing


If there is no way to lower the floor, then just slightly raise the threshold in the toilet - it will become a reliable obstacle to spilled water

When repairing so-called "wet places", which includes the toilet, it is necessary be sure to provide waterproofing... It will reliably protect this room from leaks from the upper floor and keep the water in the bathroom if something happens to your pipes.

For waterproofing the ceiling you need:

  • cleaning it thoroughly,
  • priming,
  • applying a special mastic or mixture.

After that, you can make plaster, paint or mount a stretch or suspended ceiling.

The situation with waterproofing the floor is somewhat more complicated. In the toilet, as, indeed, in the bathroom, the floor level should be several centimeters below the floor level of the entire apartment. This is necessary so that accidentally leaking water does not flood your apartment, but remains on the floor of the toilet. If there is no way to lower the floor, then before waterproofing, just slightly raise the threshold in the toilet - it will become a reliable obstacle to spilled water. The main thing in waterproofing the floor in the toilet is its absolute tightness., otherwise there is a risk of flooding the neighbors from below.

The floors in the toilet should be flat, and the waterproofing should rise along the walls at least 5-15 cm from the floor. The joints of walls and pipes to the ceiling and floor must be very carefully sealed in order to ensure the watertightness of the toilet. The waterproofing layer in the toilet is most often made with special polymer mastics or roll materials based on bitumen. And the joints are sealed with sealants. They perfectly protect the toilet from humidity, temperature extremes and have great shock-resistant strength.


Finishing mixtures give the floor a complete look, make it flawlessly even and smooth

After installing the waterproofing layer, the toilet floor must be leveled. If the differences in the level of your floor do not exceed 1-2 cm, you can get by with a self-leveling mixture. To make everything work the first time, prepare a dry mixture (assuming that your self-leveling floor will be at least 1 cm high) you will need:

  • a bucket in which you will dilute the mixture,
  • drill with mixer attachment,
  • needle roller.

You should act strictly according to the instructions:

  1. prepare the required amount of the mixture in a bucket, fill the floor with it;
  2. if you see that there are air bubbles in the mixture, carefully walk along the self-leveling floor with a needle roller;
  3. let the mixture dry.

If the floor in the toilet is skewed by a few centimeters, more laborious work awaits you:

  1. peeling sections of the concrete floor must be beaten off;
  2. cover all potholes and significant irregularities with a layer of a special solution;
  3. for the floor to be flawlessly level, at this stage of work, clear markings of the level are necessary. For this purpose, laser or water levels are used;
  4. having set the desired floor level, you need to thoroughly clean its surface;
  5. then it is necessary to apply a primer to strengthen the adhesion of the concrete floor to the new floor layer.

When leveling the floor, use dry mixes based on non-shrinking cement, to which fine fractions are added as an ideal filler.

When leveling floors, use starting mixtures and finishing mixtures. Starting mixtures intended for leveling the floor, finishing give it a complete look, as it makes the floors flawlessly even and smooth.

Laying tiles

There should be equal gaps between the tiles. To do this, use plastic crosses.

Tiles are traditionally placed on the toilet floor. She not only looks great, but also is not afraid of moisture. Laying the floor tiles starts from the entrance to the toilet so that the incomplete, edged tiles that end the first row are the same size to the left and right of the entrance. After the first row is laid, you can move deeper into the toilet.

There should be equal gaps between the tiles. To do this, use plastic crosses, most often 2 mm in size. To adhere the tile to the floor, use a special glue, which is applied in a thin layer with a spatula to the back of the tile or to the floor. To keep the floor perfectly flat, use a level when laying.

Once the glue has dried, the grout is done. This is the final step in laying the floor tiles.

Wall decoration


Plastic panels are the most economical option for wall decoration. They are easy to install and do not require additional maintenance

If desired, the walls can also be covered with tiles. It also fits on prepared using a level. Tiling starts from the floor and only the top tiles are trimmed if necessary.

In the corners, the tiles are stacked one on top of the other with a small gap, which will subsequently undergo grouting. You can also use plastic corners, which will give the tiles a particularly attractive look.

In addition to tiles, the walls in the toilet can be finished with washable or vinyl wallpaper. Both those and others perfectly tolerate cleaning and do not allow moisture to pass through. The most economical option for toilet repair is plastic panels. They are easy and quick to assemble. But when working with them, you need to be careful, as they can be quite fragile.

Fans of a healthy lifestyle prefer to use wood as decoration. You can also use moisture resistant for these purposes. These thin and lightweight slabs often have an attractive decorative surface that imitates natural wood.

Repair of the ceiling in the toilet

The suspended ceiling is easy to install, allows you to hide pipes, wires or ventilation system if necessary

It largely depends on the height of the room and the size of the toilet. In a small toilet, it is advisable to simply paint the ceiling with light paint. This will visually enlarge the room.

If the room is quite spacious, you can make a false ceiling with a lot of light bulbs. For this, siding of various shapes and sizes is used - strips, slabs, etc. The advantages of such a ceiling are its simple installation, low price and the possibility, if necessary., wires or ventilation system. The ceiling can also be covered with light wallpaper.

So, a little theory, preparation of the required amount of materials for decoration and a few days of painstaking work - and the toilet is ready to be updated with your own hands!

Sooner or later, any person in one way or another is faced with the repair of a toilet. You can entrust this work to professionals, or you can save money and do everything yourself. In this article, we will analyze in detail what work is coming up and in what sequence it is best to carry it out.

Any venture begins with a comparison of desires and capabilities. If finances allow, then the boundaries of desires are very conditional. We will talk about a decent do-it-yourself toilet repair with a minimal budget. This is the foundation for further narration.

The planning of the process itself has a clear sequence:

  1. Complete cleaning of the premises;
  2. Replacement of plumbing communications and electrical wiring;
  3. Preparation of surfaces for finishing works;
  4. Finishing:
  5. Paul;
  6. Sten;
  7. Ceiling.
  8. Plumbing installation.

The zero point should be set "Development of design and procurement of materials." But this can create confusion. Therefore, describing each stage, we will justify the advantage of certain materials. For objectivity, we took the cost of all finishing elements from YandexMarket.

Cleaning the premises

Complete renovation, declares the absolute cleaning of the room. Nothing should remain in it, except for the pipes of the common riser.

The sequence must also be followed. First, knock the tiles off the walls. Depending on the quality of the joint, this can be done with a hammer drill in the “chiseling” mode or with a simple ax, using it as a spatula. They walk along bare walls with a drill, with a brush attachment.

Explanation: It is quite possible for new tiles to be laid on top of the old floor. But in this case, it will take 3-5 cm from the height of the room.

Only after that, the whitewash is washed off the ceiling. At the same time, dust is removed from walls and floors.

Plumbing is dismantled last. To do this, shut off the water supply to, unscrew the fastener and remove the toilet drain from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is very old, then it will have to be broken out, since the drain was sealed with cement mortar. The entrance to the sewer pipe is cleaned of pieces of sanitary ware and cement.

On the hole, before the end of the work, put on a plastic bag and tie it with a rope.

Explanation: Removing the toilet allows you to create a solid floor covering, without painstaking trimming and fitting of tiles. In addition, the toilet can be easily replaced later.

Replacement of communications and wiring

Self-replacement of the plumbing pipe, in practice, is never carried out. The reason is the need to shut off the water supply in the entire riser, and this is the prerogative of the plumbers from the service organization. But the more important factor is time and guarantees.

Replacing riser pipes with your own hands without professional skills will require leaving residents without water for the whole day. It is unlikely that your neighbors will tolerate it. Specialists will cope with this task much faster.

The quality of the work done has a deeper implication. If the replacement of the riser is carried out by specialists from the ZhEK, according to an official request, then in the event of leaks or any emergency, the responsibility will fall on the installers. Otherwise, you will have to pay for the renovation of flooded apartments.

But you have the right to choose the material for the riser within your apartment. The most affordable and high-quality material is fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene pipes. They are suitable for both hot and cold water.

You can do the wiring around the apartment yourself. The best material for this purpose is corrugated stainless steel. At a price it is more expensive than or polypropylene pipes, but you get:

  • Saving at the corners;
  • Aesthetic appearance;
  • Almost unlimited service life;
  • Extremely easy installation.

The cost of 1 meter of corrugated stainless steel pipe ø 16 mm is 92 rubles. An important condition for long-term service is the use of brass fittings.

The electrical wiring will require modernization in the event that you want to install several lights in a miniature toilet. And this happens very rarely.

A very good solution would be to install a tubular energy-saving lamp above the entrance, parallel to the doorway. In this situation, the wiring can be left alone.

Preparation of surfaces for finishing

As a result of this paragraph, all surfaces should be smooth and even. The easiest way to do this is with the floor. For leveling, you will need to use a quick-drying, self-leveling screed. For 1m 2, with a thickness of 1 cm, 13-14 kg of dry mixture will be required. For a toilet, 1 bag is enough, weighing 25 kg and the price of 400 rubles.

The floors are pre-primed. We recommend that you prime the walls and ceiling immediately.... The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and poured. In order not to make a layer too thick, disperse it a little bit with a spatula. The complete curing process takes 24 hours.

Aligning the walls in the toilet is a conditional task. The fact is that in such a small area, heaped walls are extremely rare. Therefore, if the walls of the toilet are concrete, then a primer is sufficient, and if they are plastered brick, then putty will be required.

For putty you need:

  • Working spatula 30 cm long;
  • Auxiliary spatula 5 cm long;
  • Putty mixture 20 kg (Weber: Vetonit 310 r);
  • Drill with attachment and capacity.

Setting time for cement-based putty ≈ 90-120 min. Dissolve 2-3 kg of dry mix following the instructions on the package. Then, using a short spatula, apply a small amount of mortar to the long spatula. Using the work tool at an angle of 20-30˚, spread the mixture along the wall from bottom to top. Apply new portions of the mixture successively.

By adjusting the angle between the wall and the trowel, you can get different effects. At an acute angle, gaps and depressions are filled; at an angle close to a straight line, the applied composition is leveled.

Excess material, spreading to the edges of the tool, is collected with a short spatula and again applied to the long spatula.

Do not strive to achieve a perfectly smooth surface in one pass. After processing all the walls and waiting 3-4 hours, you can walk through problem areas a second time.

Pay special attention to the corners. Nodules and roundings are unacceptable on them. It is not necessary to achieve geometric accuracy in all corners, they will be covered with finishing materials, but the excess in them should be removed.

After a day, the walls can be treated with emery cloth to obtain a high-quality coating for further work.

The final chord of this stage is the priming of the prepared walls and floor.

There is almost always a slab on the ceiling, therefore, in addition to priming, preparation is not required.

Finishing work

Floors

The specificity of the room limits the choice of flooring. Of all the options, only self-leveling floors and tiles are suitable for the toilet.

Self-leveling floors look attractive, but they have two huge disadvantages:

  • High price;
  • A very complex work process.

If you use them, it is better in a place where they are noticeable. In the toilet, they will be hidden. So there is only one option left - tiles.

Considering that the toilet is dismantled and the base is prepared, laying the tiles in the toilet with your own hands is an extremely easy process. The choice of tiles is a very sensitive issue. We have no right to advise on the color and pattern, but we will help you figure it out with the sizes.

The dimensions of a standard toilet in an apartment are 0.8 by 1.2 m. For ease of use, try to find tiles that fit into these dimensions without waste, for example, 40 x 30 or 40 x 40. In this case, you will need to glue only 8 or 6 elements ... Note that the fewer the tiles in the mosaic, the easier the job is. And for the price, this choice will be quite acceptable. For example, from the manufacturer CERROL, in the Nero (Black) series, 1 m 2 of 40x40 tiles will cost 1304 rubles. There is enough for the toilet and there is practically no waste left.

There is another option for light finishing of the floor in the toilet - mosaic tiles. These are 2 x 2 cm ceramic tiles glued to a backing. Having picked up the size of the sheet, you can cover the entire area in 2-3 steps. But this option, subsequently, will not show itself in the best way.

The fact is that small elements of the flooring visually reduce the size of the toilet.

Tiled glue "Yunis 2000" in a 5-kg package will help to cope with the task perfectly. Its price is 130 rubles. Consumption ≈ 4-5 kg ​​/ m2.

You will also need:

  • Notched trowel;
  • Crosses;
  • Laser level;
  • Square.

The thickness of the crosses is no more than 1-2 mm... In a small room, large seams will not look aesthetically pleasing.

The way of laying the tiles is straight. The toilet is too small a room for a beautiful pattern to be laid out in it.

Work progress:

Dilute the adhesive following the instructions on the package. If you followed our advice and chose a large tile, then knead the entire package. While the mixture is swelling (4-5 minutes), adjust the laser level so that the horizontal beam is projected at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. TIP: it is most convenient to put it on a horizontal sewer pipe. All laser levels have a self-leveling head, so even if there is a slight tilt, the beam will still show the true horizon.

The floors are swept. Apply the finished adhesive to the tiles with a notched trowel. Please note: the adhesive must spread over the entire surface. This will not only increase the grip area, but also allow you to drill holes for fixing the toilet in the future without fear of splitting the tiles.. The thickness of the adhesive must not exceed the thickness of the tiles! Place the tiles in their place. It is better to start gluing from the wall opposite to the entrance. Wiggle the glued element with an amplitude of 2-3 mm.

Successively applying a square to each corner of the tile, compare the level at which the laser beam is projected. Trim the tiles if necessary.

Similarly, glue the second tile, align it and then insert the crosses. There should be 2 crosses on each side of the tile.

With proper planning, you will only need to trim the tiles once to bypass the riser pipes. For this, it is best to use a grinder with a cutting disc. ATTENTION: the blade must be specialized, without radial cuts.

Use a tape measure to measure the distance you need to trim. Most likely, this will be the corner sector. Set aside the resulting dimensions on the face of the tile.

Tip: stick masking tape on the tiles, it is more convenient to mark it on it.

Place the tiles on a flat surface and fix. When working with a grinder, be sure to use glasses!

It is necessary to cut through, so there must be a soft material under the tile (a wooden block or two pieces of gypsum board).

The cut edge can be processed with sandpaper.

If there are 1-2 cm gaps, then evenly distribute them in such a way that they fall on the gap between the tile and the wall. Subsequently, they will be covered with wall finishing materials.

According to the outlined scheme, all floor tiles are glued. In a day, you can walk on it and at this time they start grouting. The optimal material for filling tile gaps is silicone sealant. It is easy to work with, and after drying it gives an elastic seam with impeccable hygiene characteristics.

To work, you only need a white silicone sealant in a tube and a lint-free napkin.

Cut off the spout of the tube so that the thickness of the emerging silicone is minimal. Insert the container of sealant into the gun and apply even pressure along one of the seams. Excess silicone protruding outward, remove with a slightly damp cloth. The slots must be flush filled.

The silicone should be ventilated within 3-5 hours. Then cardboard should be laid on the floor, and you can start decorating the walls.

Walls

Wall decoration is possible in two materials: ceramic tiles or wall panels. We do not consider painting and whitewashing in principle, while other materials have low moisture resistance.

The tile is a traditional option for the toilet. Looks presentable, lasts a very long time. But there are points on which it is inferior to plastic panels. In particular, :

  • Cheaper;
  • They are glued easier, faster, do not require professional skills;
  • Models with 3D effect look gorgeous;
  • You can easily change and "refresh" the appearance;

There is one more nuance that can influence your choice. In the toilet, you will need to close the plumbing pipe. If you use wall panels, then it will be possible to close this unsightly need with them without much difficulty and preliminary preparation.

In addition to everything, you can improve the appearance by choosing wall panels 40 cm wide, just in the size of the tiles. All decoration will take on the appearance of a finished composition.

To fix the wall panels, Liquid Nails are required. We recommend using "Moment Montage".

To work you will need:

  • Wall;
  • Liquid nails with a gun;
  • Hacksaw for metal;
  • Construction knife;
  • Roulette and marker.

To glue the panels, start from the place where they fit entirely, without cutting to width. Measure the height and place the required dimension on the panel. When cutting off excess metal with a hacksaw, make sure that the lamella does not bend or break at the very end of the cut.

The glue is applied in continuous stripes, along the entire length, the diameter of the emerging roller is 4-5 mm. There should be a distance of 5-7 cm between each strip of glue. Immediately attach the panel to its place, and slightly wiggle it from side to side to spread the glue. But immediately remove this panel, and let the shutter speed be 3-4 minutes. This is required for the adhesive to come into contact with atmospheric oxygen.

After exposure, the panel is glued. Use a plumb line to control the vertical position of each plank. Press the lamella firmly for 30-40 seconds and stir it slightly

All panels are fixed in a similar way. But to bypass the water riser, proceed as follows.

Explanation: Between the front and back of each plank, there are stiffening ribs. If you cut the reverse side of the panel along its entire length along these edges, then it can be bent and rounded sections can be pasted over.

In the place where the riser is located, on the reverse side of the panel, the back sheet is cut off along with the stiffening ribs. Additionally, the lower part is cut, where the drain of the sewer pipe comes out. To make a neat outlet of water pipes, they are unscrewed from the stopcock on the riser. And a hole is made on the panel according to the size of the tap itself. A similar operation can be carried out only if you work with wide panels!

A horizontally lying sewer pipe can be pasted over with scraps of wall panels, leaving a hole for connecting a toilet bowl.

This option for finishing the walls in the toilet will avoid the use of end strips. After all, the edges near the entrance will be closed by a door cashier.

Instead of a skirting board, glue the strip. In appearance, it is the same, only narrow.

Ceiling

The decorative finishing of the ceiling in the toilet, when the walls and floor are already decorated, should be started as a final chord that will complete the whole composition. If there is a large dark tile on the floor and dark panels on the walls, then the ceiling should be white and gold.

There are two options, this is a slatted ceiling or PVC ceiling panels. In appearance of the finished coating, they will practically not differ. But the rack ceiling will "steal" from a height of at least 7 cm, due to the fastening system. And its installation will take an order of magnitude longer.

With PVC ceiling panels, the whole process will take 40-50 minutes.

Considering that they will look the same, a sane person would choose PVC ceiling panels.

Using the example of two-piece planks with gold, produced by Olympia, we will describe the installation process. The width of the lamellas is 24 cm, the length is 3 m. The price of one strip is 180 rubles. The toilet ceiling requires 2 panels.

They are glued to the same "Installation Moment". The lamellas are adjusted in length and glued, starting from the entrance, according to the technology described above.

Around the box that covers the riser, the panels are trimmed with a construction knife.

Plumbing installation

Plumbing installation consists of two stages:

  1. Installation of a toilet bowl with a cistern;
  2. Connection to the system.

The option with a hanging toilet is not even accepted for consideration. Its diminutiveness is just a marketing ploy to increase sales and create another group of products. After all, the mounting system and the cistern of the hanging toilet will require at least 20 cm from the back. In other words, the size of the toilet will actually become 0.8 x 1 m.

Therefore, we will install a regular toilet. To fix it, you will need to drill 2 or 4 holes in the floor. In this case, you first need to drill the tiles. This can be done with a diamond-coated tubular drill by switching the hammer drill to the "drilling" mode.

Having passed the tile, the perforator is switched to the “chiseling” mode, and the drill is placed.

Dowels are hammered into the holes with a mallet and the toilet is fixed through plastic washers.

TIP: Apply silicone sealant to the base of the toilet. After pressing to the floor, excess silicone will be squeezed out, they must be removed immediately. But on the other hand, such sealing will not allow water to penetrate under the toilet itself, during wet cleaning.

To connect the drain hole of the toilet bowl with the entrance to the sewer pipe, use a corrugated adapter.

The hoses for supplying water to the tank, in modern models, have a rubber gasket and do not need reeling. Additionally, plastic lugs are integrated into the hose heads, which make it possible to do without an adjustable wrench.