Recently, there has been a real boom in blacksmithing. Young people become blacksmiths. Knives and axes made by their hands are real works of art.
Nothing is impossible
Looking at the work of blacksmiths, the thought comes that there is nothing difficult in making an ax. But in practice, it turns out to be much more difficult.
In addition to a piece of metal for forging an ax, you need: a forge, an anvil, breakdowns for an eye. Not everyone has such a set of tools. Of course, you can make a forge and breakdowns, but you can also try to make an ax in a different way.
Making an ax by the locksmith method
Ideas on how to make an ax outside the forge lead to the plumbing method. The ax consists of three parts:
- ax blade
- hatchet
If everything is clear with the materials for the manufacture of the hatchet and the wedge, then the question of what, the main thing is how, to make the canvas is puzzling. Knowing that the blade consists of a blade and a butt, you understand what is needed to make an ax:
- metal strip for blade
- a piece of pipe for a butt
Blade
A full size drawing will show the amount of material required. The blade requires a hard metal, such as a car spring.
We transfer the outline of the drawing to the spring and saw off all unnecessary. We also make descents with the help of a grinder. It is important here not to overheat the metal so that the edge remains solid and holds the sharpening well.
Butt
For the butt of a medium ax, you need a pipe with an inner diameter of 38-40 mm. It is better if it is thick-walled. Cut the pipe to size from the drawing. Then we heat it, for example with a gas burner, and squeeze it in yews to make it more rectangular.
Assembling the canvas
We connect the blade and butt by welding. It is important to boil the metal with high quality so that the ax does not crack during operation.
Then we grind the seam with a grinder, if necessary, boil the shells, grind again. For extra strength, you can rivet the butt and blade with strips of metal.
Hatchet
A good ax requires a well-made ax. To the question of what the handle for an ax can be made of, there is a simple answer - from hard wood.
The most common wood for making an ax handle is birch. But, if you make an ax not only for chopping wood, but for the soul, then you should look for a tree species with a more expressive texture.
Ax tree
An ax handle made of ash, elm, hornbeam will look very beautiful. It is only problematic to buy boards made of such wood species in some regions, especially in the outback. Of course, you can take advantage of online trading.
The tree for the ax must be well dried and free of knots. At home, the wooden board is dried at room temperature for six months
The longer the wood dries, the stronger the handle will be. According to custom, timber was dried for years in the attics of houses.
Action plan
Drawing up instructions on how to make an ax with your own hands allows you to break down the process into elementary steps. The compiled list of actions will help to avoid mistakes and improve the quality of the result. This is especially important if you are doing something for the first time.
Note! 
The step-by-step process on how to make a pen at home will look like this:
- sketching the hatchet and template
- wood processing
- ax attachment
- topcoat.
Hatchet sketch and pattern
For comfortable work, the hatchet is made about 50-70 cm. Having drawn a sketch in full size, it is easier to imagine the proportions of the future ax. Next, we transfer the drawing to plywood or thick cardboard and make a template.
Roughing
Using the template, we outline the contour of the handle on the tree and cut out the workpiece. We give a more rounded shape to the handle. For these purposes, you can use a plane, chisels or a small hatchet.
Fit
The next stage in the manufacture of the hatchet is the adjustment of the shape and ergonomics. We grind the wood to give it the correct shape and a comfortable grip.
For these purposes, a large rasp is perfect, as well as a power sander. The main thing here is not to loosen the place of the ax attachment on the hatchet.
Note! 
Grinding and assembly
After rough processing, we grind the handle with sandpaper and make a slot for the wedge. We put the ax on the handle and drive in a wedge. Many people advise placing the wedge on glue or epoxy. The choice is yours.
Finishing
The assembled ax is carefully sanded with fine sandpaper. The wood can be stained or left as it is. The protective layer is applied with oil or varnish.
For greater exclusivity, the ax can be decorated with carvings, inlays or wire cutting. On the canvas of the ax, a pattern etched in a saline solution will look beautiful.
Conclusion
It is very easy to purchase an ax for chopping wood, and there is no need to make it yourself for this purpose. Homemade axes are more used as an object of creativity, but he is capable of performing his direct duties.
Some independent copies will give odds to industrial designs, give the owners a reason for pride and pleasure in the work done.
Photo of a homemade ax
Note! 
Axes were used with equal efficiency in the carpentry and military craft, but the main area of use was still in the peaceful field of activity. They were intended for cutting firewood and felling trees, without them it was impossible to lay down an elementary hut.
An important part of a steel tool is the handle, for which a tree must be selected and processed accordingly. As a toy, you can cut a wooden ax out of plywood. As in popular computer games.
A little about sizes and shapes
Each master made an ax with his own hands, focusing on his height and specific application. It's no secret that a tool designed for chopping wood will be slightly different from a similar product designed for cutting down trees. At the same time, a small carpenter's hatchet for small carpentry work will be the exact opposite of the two categories listed above.
Despite this, a professional ax with a wooden handle always consists of three main parts:
- working part made of metal with a sharpened front part;
- a hatchet - a handle made of wood;
- wedge - a spacer that connects parts of the structure together.
When self-manufacturing, special attention is paid to the metal part, otherwise the tool simply will not cope with its main function. It takes into account not only the shape and material, but also the aspect ratio and sharpening angle.
Modern axes are usually made from medium alloy tool steel that has been heat treated and quenched.
The shape of the blade is selected depending on the application. For example, products intended for woodcutters are often used for chopping tree trunks and removing large branches. Such work requires a great depth of penetration, so the shape of the ax must be wedge-shaped. The cleavers used to chop wood are similar in shape, but have thicker cheeks and a sharper sharpening angle.
The length and size of the ax is directly related to the impact loads. If a significant impact force is required, the handle is made elongated to provide more swing. The dimensions of 700-900 mm are respected here. The length of the handles of axes for felling (carpentry tools) usually does not exceed 500 mm, a good cleaver is attached to the shaft of about 800 mm.
The shape of the handle should provide a comfortable grip, therefore, the middle part is always made curved, the seat and the shank have thickenings. The seat angle of the blade usually varies between 70-90 degrees.
How to choose the right wood for the handle
Curiously, not all tree species are suitable for making a hatchet. It is recommended to use only hardwood, previously dried in special chambers or cured in a dry place. Failure to comply with these requirements will lead to the fact that in the process of use the handle will dry out and it will be very problematic to securely fasten the blade to the handle.
Craftsmen use several types of wood to make wooden handles, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's try to figure out which wood will make the best handle for an ax.
Birch
This is a come and take feedstock, but the availability of the material does not guarantee high quality. To make a high quality birch hatchet, the wood will have to dry for 10-12 months. Even then, the material remains sensitive to the damp environment.
Maple
Also available and common material with a limited area of application. In particular, maple sticks are not suitable for making quality tools for a carpenter or lumberjack. However, the wood has a beautiful texture, so it is ideal for decorative and souvenir wood products.
Hickory
This unusual name hides an American nut that grows in Canadian forests. For the manufacture of an ax handle, this is the best option, successfully combining indicators of strength, elasticity and durability. However, only American and Canadian loggers can truly appreciate these benefits.
Jatoba
This is a species of wood, unique in its properties, which is used for the manufacture of sports equipment and furniture. Jatoba is easy to process and has a presentable appearance. At the same time, in terms of strength, such an array is not inferior to oak, so the handles for an ax made of it are very reliable.
Ash
Among the listed options, ash is considered the optimal balance of availability and quality. At the same time, wood has an interesting texture, therefore, after appropriate processing, the wooden handle will have a presentable appearance without losing strength and elasticity.
Important nuances
The strength and durability of the ax is determined by the resistance of the wood to dynamic impact loads. The reasons for the premature breakage of the handle are as follows:
It is necessary to clarify that a properly made handle can serve for several years without requiring repair.
How to carve a toy ax
A homemade plywood ax can be an interesting toy for a child or a great addition to a New Year's costume. Often young children, adolescents and even adults want to make wooden axes, like in computer games like Minecraft. Such a product can be made in 1.5-2 hours with minimal financial costs.
It will take longer to make an ax from solid wood, since wood will be more difficult to process than plywood. The parts are cut with a special cutter or a sharp knife, removing the chips layer by layer, observing the observance of the dimensions and proportions.
With plywood, everything is easier. First you need to find a ready-made template or draw it yourself in full size. The drawing is transferred to a plywood sheet. Separately, the blade and the handle are cut out with a jigsaw.
To make the wooden toy look more natural, it is better to glue the blade from two halves, after cutting the groove for the handle.
Then both halves of the plywood ax blade are placed on the handle, fixed with pins and glued with PVA wood glue. After drying, the wood blade is given a sharpening angle. You can perform this operation with an ordinary file. At the final stage, all surfaces are processed with sandpaper, the blade is covered with several layers of silver paint. You can custom-design or stick a sticker. The finished wooden toy looks very nice.
Tools with ready-made axes are always on sale. But what is offered in specialized stores is not always suitable. The length of the hatchet should be such that it is convenient for the master to work. But each person has his own height and strength. Therefore, it is better to make an ax with your own hands.
Do-it-yourself wood harvesting for a hatchet
In order to make an ax with your own hands, you must first choose the appropriate material. It is better to do this in late autumn: at this time of the year, sap flow practically stops and the wood will be as dense and dry as possible. The following types of wood are suitable for a hatchet:
- hornbeam;
- rowan (old tree);
- ash;
- acacia;
- Apple tree.
The highest density is characterized by birch wood taken from the root section of the trunk. The hatchet from it will last a long time.
Tip: to make a hatchet, you need to stock up on wood in such an amount that you get several blanks. During operation, some workpieces may be damaged or rejected.
Blanks for a hatchet
Drying of blanks for a hatchet
A do-it-yourself ax handle should be made of dry wood. Drying of workpieces in natural conditions should be carried out within 3-4 years. Drying conditions: dark and dry ventilated area, protected from precipitation.
Important: making an ax with your own hands from insufficiently dry material will not give the desired result. Further drying of the wood will lead to warping and deformation.
We make a template for a hatchet with our own hands
There are strict rules governing the shape of the hatchet depending on the type of tool. For light axes (0.8 - 1.0 kg), the handle is made with a length of 0.4 - 0.6 m, and for heavy axes (up to 1.4 kg) - 0.55 - 0.65 m. Axes also differ by its functional purpose:
- lumberjack;
- carpenter's;
- knotted;
- cleaver;
- butcher's ax.
Types of axes depending on the functional purpose
How to make an ax with your own hands: drawings of various models.
When making a template, consider the following.
- In order for the ax to not jump out of the hand when swinging, its tail part is made a little wider than the gripping one.
- A do-it-yourself ax for a cleaver should be made in lengths within 0.75-0.95 m. Carpenters' axes with a shorter ax are about 0.5 m.
- To the length of the ax, the will of the butt needs to add 8-10 cm to the allowance. It can be trimmed after the butt is inserted. It is important that the wood does not split.
What allowance needs to be left when making an ax with your own hands - a video for your attention.
Note: a template can be obtained by attaching a good quality ready-made hatchet to the workpiece and outlining. In this case, do not forget to add an allowance.
Hatchet manufacturing technology
To figure out how to make an ax with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the technology. The whole process consists of three stages:
- marking the workpiece using a template;
- cutting out the workpiece with a jigsaw or other tool;
- turning and grinding.
There are several rules that must be followed during the work.
- The processing of the attachment section of the hatchet should be done carefully so as not to remove excess wood. Otherwise, the butt will not sit tightly in its place. The ax must be periodically measured against the eyelet in order to ultimately leave a margin of about 2 mm.
- It is not recommended to use a file when finishing the part: this loosens the wood and complicates its further processing. The best way is to use fine abrasive paper with a sander. The movement of the tool is along the fibers.
- The final shape of the attachment section of the ax should take into account the angle of the butt nozzle. For a cleaver, this angle is chosen equal to 85 °, for an ax - 75 °.
Ax wedging
Making an ax with your own hands: a video for those who use ordinary tools in their work.
How to protect an ax from decay
The wood of the ax handle gradually deteriorates under the influence of moisture. It is necessary to protect the instrument from damage. For processing the handle, do not use covering agents, which include paints and varnishes. In this case, the instrument may slip out of the palm of your hand. For protection, it is recommended to use drying oil or linseed oil. There are other antiseptics that are absorbed into the wood.
It is necessary to process the hatchet in several stages. Each new stage of treatment should be carried out after complete absorption of the previously applied product.
Treatment of the ax with a protective agent
Tip: You can add a bright red pigment to your ax handle. As a result, the instrument will be clearly visible in dense grass and can be easily found in case of loss.
At the end of the article on how to make an ax with your own hands - a video where the master clearly demonstrates the basic techniques of work.
The result of an activity - whether economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but not least on how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of a purchased ax, it is often it that becomes the source of a number of problems - intense blunting of the cutting edge, regularly flying off the piercing part, rapid fatigue, and so on.
Choice of wood
The fact that not every breed is suitable for making an ax is understandable. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, mountain ash (always old), beech and even an apple tree. But the best option is still considered to be birch, namely, the root part of the tree or growths on its trunk. Such wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax is also guaranteed.
It is more correct to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively "dehydrated".
Exposure of samples
Even an experienced craftsman may not make a high-quality hatchet the first time. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the handle of the ax. Opinions on the shelf life before processing differ, but they all agree on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3-4 years. Moreover, it is impossible to accelerate it artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.
It is pointless to put "fresh" wood on the ax. As a result of shrinkage of the material, it will begin to deform, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. Undried wood is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, when there is an urgent need to make a hatchet, at least for a while.
Preparing the template
A good hatchet should have a well-defined shape. Trying to withstand it "by eye" is a futile business. The same applies to linear dimensions - they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.
Axes have different purposes. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter are a must. The size and shape of the handle for each are clearly visible in the figure.
What to consider:
- The "tail" is made somewhat larger in cross section than the gripping part. This ensures that the handle does not break out of the hands of the master in the process.
- Since we all have different heights and arm lengths, the linear parameters of the ax are not a standard either. They vary within certain limits. This primarily refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for a carpentry tool - about 500 (± 50). But it is necessary to leave the so-called allowance, first of all, from the side of the butt attachment (8 - 10 cm is enough). After it is firmly planted on the ax, without splitting the tree, the excess is easy to cut off.
If the household has an ax that is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle to a sheet of cardboard and cut a template along them.
Hatchet making
With a sample, this is easy. The main stages of work are as follows:
- workpiece marking;
- sampling of excess wood (electric / jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
- finishing, grinding of the hatchet.
- One should not rush to fine-tune the fixing part. In the process of processing the hatchet, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it fits to the eye of the butt. Even a small "shuttle" is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged immediately. Taking into account the specifics of the use of the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, the grinding of the hatchet should alternate with its regular fitting in place and fitting within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
- When processing a workpiece under an ax, it is undesirable to use files. Such a tool loosens the wood, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For finishing, it is more correct to use a sharp knife, glass shards, sandpaper with different grain sizes. The recommended direction for stripping and sanding is along the grain.
- It is also necessary to choose the correct angle of the butt nozzle. For a universal tool used for household purposes, 75º is enough, a cleaver - about 85 ± 50. This is also taken into account when finalizing the fastening part of the hatchet.
Handle wood protection
Any tree is subject to decay to some extent. Linseed and drying oil for the ax. It is impossible to use varnishes and paints to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the handle will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.
The application of the compounds on the ax is carried out in several stages, while each layer must dry well.
Experienced craftsmen mix brightly colored dyes into drying oil or oil. It is very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes, in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not get lost.
Ready-made hatchets are available for sale. If you decide to purchase a pen, and not waste time preparing wood and making it yourself, then it is advisable to have its approximate dimensions with you (shown in the figure above). And choose a workpiece, focusing on them. At home, it will only be necessary to slightly adjust the handle "for yourself".
The ax is actually a very important tool. Of course, if you are a real carpenter, you should definitely know how to make an ax that is perfect for certain tasks. Professional carpenters usually use several axes at once. Nevertheless, this type of tool is also necessary for people living outside the city, or just city dwellers who occasionally leave for their summer cottages. After all, you need to heat the bath with firewood, and you can only chop them with an ax. And so that no misunderstandings arise in the process, and the tool does not let you down, you should know about all the intricacies of how to make an ax with your own hands, as well as how to prepare it for work. The handle itself can be completely different in shape. But it is necessary to correctly fit the ax, wedge it, and it is also necessary to sharpen it at a certain angle.
Choosing the piercing part of the ax
When you are faced with a choice, in the process of acquiring a piercing part, be sure to pay attention to the metal from which it is made. There must be an inscription GOST, confirming the implementation in accordance with the norms and requirements. You should be on your guard if you see a sign like: OST, MRTU, TU. In this case, the metal production technology could be changed by the manufacturer. If we talk about choosing a good Soviet ax, then it is better to buy it on the regular market.
You can check the quality of the ax in the old way by striking the blade of one against the blade of the other. If one of the products is made of poor quality, then it will be on it that traces of impact will remain. Also, if you hang the ax, you can knock on it and listen to the sound. It will be characteristic.
Pay attention to the fact that if the blade is good, there should be no dents or flaws; the eyelet must be tapered; also the eyelet and blade must be coaxial; and at least a small thickness of the butt must be present, and its ends must be perpendicular to the blade.
If you could not find a product that would meet all the standards. You can make a good ax yourself. Even if some misunderstandings are found in the purchased product over time, they can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, bore the lugs, and give the butt a symmetrical shape.
Select a blank. Make an ax
Based on your height and strength, you should choose the length of the ax. The quality of the wood is also very important. For example, for lightweight products, up to one kg in weight, the length of the handles is 40-60 cm. If we talk about a heavy ax - up to one and a half kilograms in weight, the length of the handle will be 55-65 cm.
The approach to the question of how to make a wooden ax should be correct. For example, not every tree is suitable for its handle. The most suitable options are the root part of the birch, as well as its growths; maple or oak, ash and other types of wood. It is very important to dry the preparations well, and necessarily in natural conditions and for a considerable time.
Choose a tool template in advance, and your template should be outlined on the workpiece. The end part of the handle should be thickened so that the master can brake with his hand in the event that the ax slips out. Excess wood (outside the contour) should be removed with a knife, ax with a perfectly sharpened blade or other similar tools. After that, you need to make sure that the actions are correct. Use a mallet to place the ax on the ax for fitting. Make sure these pieces fit very tightly together. After that, you can proceed with further stripping. To cycle, you should use glass, and sand - fine sandpaper. Knowing how to make an ax out of wood is half the battle. But that's not all.
"Landing" the ax on the handle
This process can be done, for example, in this way:
- The top of the ax is adjusted in accordance with the eyelet. The unnecessary tree should be removed with a knife.
- The ax should be laid horizontally on a flat, hard surface, and the ax should be placed on top. On the handle, you need to mark with a pencil the place to which it needs to be inserted. Having divided the segment in two, a second mark should be put.
- With a vise, you should grip the ax so that the wider end is up. With a hacksaw for metal, cut to the 2nd mark right under the wedge.
- The wedge can be from the store, or made of wood by hand. Its thickness can be 5-10 mm, the length is the same as the cutting depth, the width is equal to the eye of an ax.
- You need to put a board on the table, and put an ax on it, upside down. The ax should be put on the ax by tapping it on the board. Next, you should turn over and knock with the handle during the insertion process. This should be turned over and tapped several times in a row. As a result, the handle should go into the eyelet.
- After that, the ax must be placed vertically, and a wedge must be inserted into the cut and hammered into it with a mallet.
- Oil should be applied to the handle, the excess will drain off, and the tool will remain dry. After all, using a rag, you need to wipe the ax and the handle.
In addition, you can watch a video on how to make an ax, with the help of which the essence of making a tool will be clearer to you.
Sharpening the ax blade
This issue is very important so that the tool does not cause inconvenience and hassle. In accordance with GOST, the sharpening angle should be from twenty to thirty degrees. If you are a professional carpenter, then sharpening should be done at a thirty-five degree angle.
Upon completion of the work done with an ax, it is recommended to put a cover on the blade. Be careful!
