How to make a beehive with your own hands drawings. Do-it-yourself hive: we use drawings for the manufacturing process. Processing and assembly requirements

Uliy Langstrota in the photo

In recent years, in foreign countries with developed beekeeping, there has been a clear tendency of a consistent decrease in the number of hive structures to two, which are Langstroth and Dadan-Blatt hives. In this regard, in the coming years, bee hives of two designs will be introduced into production, which meet the requirements of intensive beekeeping - two-frame with store extensions and ten-frame with store extensions.

A two-body hive consists of a detachable bottom, two brood bodies containing ten frames measuring 435x230 mm each, three store extensions, a rooftop, a roof and a feeder. The size of the magazine frame is 435x I45 mm. The foreign analogue of this type of hive in modern beekeeping is the Langstroth hive.

The ten-frame hive consists of a detachable bottom, two brood hives, two stores, a canopy, a roof and a feeder. What is the size of the frames in this bee hive? Each brood body contains ten nest frames measuring 435x300 mm, each magazine contains ten frames measuring 435x145 mm. This hive is a complete analogue of the Dadan-Blatt hive.

The experience of many beekeeping farms and amateur beekeepers has shown that a 12-frame hive with an insulated main body (wall thickness 40-50 mm) is optimal for the entire territory of Russia, including the northern regions. This is the best hive for novice beekeepers. It allows bees to hibernate in the wild, while they get the opportunity to make a cleansing flight much earlier than during hibernation indoors. This is of great importance in areas with a short period of family strength building, where strong families are required in the spring in a short time.

A hive with a unified main body can be equipped with one or more store extensions with half frames or additional bodies. Speaking about which hive for bees is better, it is worth noting that a characteristic feature of the main body of the 12-frame structure is the presence of a large underframe space with a height of 100-120 mm and hinged doors in the lower part of the rear wall. To prevent bees from entering the subframe space, it is separated from the nest by a bronze mesh with 4.4 mm cells, framed along the edges with slats or metal strips.

As you can see in the photo, in this bee hive, the mesh moves along the grooves in the walls of the body or along the rails from the rails:

The distance from the frames to the mesh is 15-20 mm, and from the mesh to the bottom 80-100 mm. At the bottom of the hive there is a sliding pallet with sides, 40-50 mm high, pasted over with a film inside. The rear door is equipped with two vents.

In a hive for bees of this design, it is convenient to treat insects for varroatosis with herbs - tansy, wormwood, without causing them such harm as when using chemical drugs. Treatment is best done after honey pumping, at the beginning of August, before or while feeding the bees for the winter. By this time, the drone brood is absent, and the flowering tansy becomes the most effective for the treatment of varroatosis. To do this, fill the pallet with finely chopped grass to the edge at the bottom of the hive, after having smeared the film with vegetable oil, and leave it for two to three days. Depending on the degree of varroatosis in a family of bees, this procedure is repeated two to three times. After each time, the pan is cleaned of tansy and ticks, the contents are burned.

After the autumn feeding of the bees and treatment for varroatosis, when preparing the families for wintering, the net is removed from the hive, the pallet is cleaned of debris and put back into the hive. In the spring, as soon as possible, they carefully open the door, insert the mesh, take out the pallet with submersion, lightly wipe the bottom of the hive and close the door (cleaning the bottom instead of replacing it).

The enlarged underframe space improves the wintering conditions for bees (some beekeepers put the hives on empty store extensions), it helps to avoid damage by wax moth. The rear door of the main building allows you to ventilate the hive more often in hot summertime, and, if necessary, insulate the subframe space.

Double-hull structures are those bee hives that are suitable for keeping strong colonies, since insects develop better in them, swarm less and are more productive. Therefore, this type of hive is the most widespread in the Central Russia. The beehives of this system are used quite successfully in Siberia and the Far East, where a large honey collection forces beekeepers to additionally increase its volume with hulls or store extensions.

In double-hulled hives, it is easier to complete the nest for the winter using honeycombs from the second hive. At the same time, the area of combs in both buildings is slightly larger (540 dm2), in comparison with the above-described hive.

The disadvantages of this design of hives in beekeeping can be attributed to the fact that work with its hulls is physically difficult.

Speaking about what kind of double-hull type hives are, they distinguish designs with two and three store extensions.

Two-body hive with two store extensions. Its set includes a detachable bottom, two cases containing 10 frames measuring 435x300 mm each, two ten-frame extensions, a roof cover, a roof and a feeder. The internal dimensions of the body and the store extension are 450x375-380 mm, the heights are 330 and 165 mm, respectively. The thickness of the walls of the body, magazine and bottom is 35 mm, the walls of the roof liner are 25 mm. The design of the roof, roof cap, bottom and other parts is similar to the design of the corresponding parts of the double-hive hive.

For placement in early spring and autumn of an average family, one building for 10 nesting frames is quite enough. At the same time, it is not necessary to reduce the nests of bee colonies in such hives (they are left to winter at 10 honeycombs) and to use lateral insulation. To build up bees for honey collection and fold honey for an average-strong family, 20 nest combs, which fit into two cases, and two store extensions are enough. However, all this applies only to families of average strength, which, of course, cannot suit the beekeeper.

In reality, however, most colonies, with normal development, quickly gain strength and require more hive volume. Therefore, the number of stores in this case has to be increased. During wintering, it is better to leave such colonies in two buildings, when the upper body is occupied with food, and the bee club is located under it in the lower body. It turns out an artificially created subframe space, which contributes to better gas exchange and moisture indicators. In the spring, the nest, depending on the state of the family, is either reduced to one body, or left in two buildings, reducing the space in the upper body with insert boards and insulation.

The same fully applies to the two previous types of bee hives. At the time of the blossoming of the gardens, usually both buildings are occupied by the family, and it is necessary either to install a third building, or store extensions, or to make layering to prevent swarming.

It is believed that the modern design of the multi-body hive system bears the greatest resemblance to a hollow. But it is a purely superficial resemblance. If in a hollow bees build a nest from top to bottom, then in risers, on the contrary, they build it up with bodies from bottom to top. The hollow never knew the foundation, the setting of the buildings in inconsistency, the division of the nest by frames into floors with interfloor gaps, the reduction and expansion of the nest. Regarding the verticality of the nest, it can be noted that the bee colony is a plastic organism. In summer, the direction of growth of the nest is of no fundamental importance.

With proper care, it develops well both in the lounger and in the multi-hive.

Two-body hive with three store extensions. Each body and extension of this type of hive contains 10 frames. The dimensions of the nest frames on the outside are 435x230 mm, for the store frames - 435x145 mm. Frames are made in the same way as for a multi-body hive. The total area of nesting and shop combs is approximately 620 dm2. Such a volume of the hive allows you to keep strong bee colonies and mix about 36 kg of honey at the same time only in store extensions. Housings and store extensions are 450 mm long and 375 mm wide (380 are more often made, adding 5 mm for ease of maintenance). Case height 250 mm, extensions 165 mm. The thickness of their walls is at least 35 mm. Each building has one upper taphole measuring 120 x 10 mm, equipped with a small landing board and a gate valve.

Look at the photo - the set of the bee hive, in addition to two buildings and three store extensions, includes a bottom, a roof cover, a feeder and a roof:

The detachable bottom is made of 35 mm thick planks. An oblong taphole measuring 250 x 10 mm is arranged in its harness. The opening of the tap hole can be reduced or closed completely with a valve. The bottom is equipped with a retractable metal mesh and a tray for collecting varroa mites. The mesh with the tray is placed through a hole in the back wall, closed by a flat sleeve. The roof and roof structures of this modern bee hive are similar to those of the multi-hull type. To make one hive, 0.22 m3 of planks are required.

The latest design of a multi-body bee hive (with photo)

The standard multi-hive hive consists of four interchangeable hive bodies with a removable bottom. Each case is for 10 frames measuring 435 x230 mm with extended side strips (37 mm), which close and allow you to do without dividers during transportation. The four-body hive has the largest honeycomb area (672 dm2). Multi-hive hives facilitate the work of the beekeeper and increase his productivity, since the beekeeper, when expanding or shortening the nests, operates not with separate frames, but with whole bodies.

To increase the efficiency of bees during honey harvesting, there is either a round one with a diameter of 25 mm on top of the front wall of each housing. or flat, with a diameter of 150x10 mm, notch. The lower notch is made only in the bottom harness and has a height of 20 mm, in length it can reach the width of the front wall. An insert is provided in this opening to reduce the taphole.

As shown in the photo, in this type of hive, the bottom design provides for an increased space.

It is necessary to accommodate a mesh stretcher (flare trap) used to combat varroatosis in bees. Arrival board on hinges. For the time of transportation or carrying of the hives, the lower entrance is completely covered with an arrival board, which for this is installed from a horizontal position to a vertical one. In nomadic beekeeping, the set of the hive includes a ventilation frame, which, when transporting bees, is placed in a liner or fixed on the lid. The roof liner must have a height of at least 100 mm and a wall thickness of 25 mm. In the cold season, a pillow or straw mat is placed in the under-roof placed on the body, and when feeding the bees, a feeder is installed in it. For the passage of bees from the nest to the trough with sugar syrup, a corresponding hole is provided in the wooden ceiling. In practice, the height of the under-roof is determined in such a way that the supplied feeder can be well insulated in it. For this purpose, a store extension, if any, is quite suitable.

This newest hive design has ventilation openings in the front and back walls of the roof, which are fenced off from the inside with a metal mesh. From above, the roof is covered with roofing iron. To make one hive, 0.265 m3 of wood is required. A multi-body hive can be equipped with a large number of bodies. Intensive technology provides for a constant change of buildings in places, so this work can only be carried out by hardy and physically strong people.

Practice shows that cases with 230 mm frames are more convenient to work with. During the spring development of colonies, bees create more compact nests in such buildings, in which the queens sow with eggs almost the entire area of the honeycomb and it is easier for the bees to maintain a normal temperature on them.

The advantages of the design of multi-hive hives are:

rapid development of bee colonies in spring;
quick detachment of frames with foundation;
the ability to easily change the volume of the nest;
satisfactory wintering in a nest close to natural in shape, with a large supply of food at the top and free space at the bottom.

With unconditional advantages, the design of hives of this type also has disadvantages:

extremely hard work with hulls with intensive beekeeping technology;
insufficient ventilation;
lack of free space in the nest, forcing the beekeeper to remove part of the frames from it during examinations, which creates additional stress in the bee colony;
difficulties in supporting two families;
difficulties in controlling the building frame and preparing the family for swarming.

The technical difficulties include the fitting of the cases, especially without folds, difficulties during transportation for the same reasons, and instability.

Sun beds are 16 frames (semi-reclining), 20 and 24 frames (rarely). During the period of growth and development of the family, the nest of the lounger hive is expanded by placing the combs on the side in a horizontal direction. The volume of the nest in the design of the hive-lounger is regulated by a dividing board (diaphragm). These hives have several advantages over double hives. In the loungers, the bee colonies are looked after in the same way as in the 12-frame hives, but the rearrangement of heavy extensions is not required. In addition, in spring and winter, this hive can contain two families, fenced off by a blank partition and having separate entrances.

Video: Types of hives

In the manufacture of hives for the front and rear walls of the body and the extension, boards with a thickness of 40-45 mm are used, for the side walls - 30-35 mm. The large size of the hives in this type of hive makes it possible to well insulate the nests of bee colonies from the sides in the spring-autumn period and for the winter. In the front wall of the body there are two notches - the lower and the upper (or two lower and two upper ones, shifted from the center). The bottom of the hive is integral (nailed tightly to the walls of the body), made of boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm in the tongue. The bottom edge, which protrudes 35-50 mm beyond the front wall of the housing, serves as a landing board for bees. The set of the hive also includes a ceiling, insert boards, a roof cover with a wall thickness of 25 mm and a roof covered with roofing iron and equipped with ventilation holes.

The advantages of a lounger hive, especially for a large number of frames, include:

the ability to build up great strength in bee colonies for honey collection;
the lack of work associated with rearranging the buildings, which allows the physically weak and the elderly to serve the hives of this system;
free access to any frame of the nest, simplifying control over the building frame and the state of the family at any time;
less, in comparison with hives of other systems, swiftness;
the ability to build a large number of combs on a foundation;
the ability to make layering directly in the hive, without looking for a queen bee;
the ability to keep two families or a family and a core with mutual heating in one hive in winter;
the ability to keep two families with worms in the hive, combining them before honey collection.

Despite all the positive characteristics of this type of hives, there are also disadvantages of sun beds:

the frame of 300 mm is small in height, as in the Dadanov hive, the setting of a store extension dramatically complicates maintenance;
wintering, as in a 12-frame hive, is poor for the same reasons;
spring development in horizontal hives is worse than in narrow ones.

The Ukrainian beehive-lounger differs from the usual one in that the frames of the standard size are placed vertically in it. The frames have wall dividers that protrude 6 mm beyond the overall dimensions of the frame on the lower bar. Stores are not provided. The undoubted advantage of the Ukrainian lounger hive is the narrow-high frame, which allows the winter club of bees to rise up without overcoming gaps in the feed.

At the same time, the disadvantages of this type of bee hives include:

less strong attachment of honeycombs to the strips;
poor detuning of combs along the bottom of the frames, the appearance of mold on them in winter;
difficulties in examining and cleaning the bottom, involving the removal of combs, causing stress and injury to the bees;
poor honey pumping in a standard honey extractor.

Many beekeepers find bed hives very bulky and prefer other systems for hives.

Alpine hive- this is a multi-hull type hive, but unlike traditional designs, it has only one tap hole and does not have dividing grids and holes for ventilation of the nest.

Although outwardly it looks like a 4-hive hive, R. Delon's version, the Alpine version is a fundamentally new design.

A hollow dry wooden trunk (hollow) served as a model for an alpine hive. Fresh air enriched with oxygen enters from below and, warmed up by the bee club, rises upward. As a result of the vital activity of bees, the air is saturated with carbon dioxide, vapors and metabolic products, and already wet and heavy it goes down and out of the hive.

At the same time, the feeder-ceiling acts as an air cushion and prevents the formation of condensation. At the same time, an insulating roof over the ceiling with a thickness of 30 mm protects the bees from overheating and cooling.

During honey collection, when the height of the hive is more than 1.5 m, the microclimate in it is maintained by increasing the number of bodies, in accordance with the strength of the bee colony. In this way, an approximation to the ideal natural conditions for the life of bees is achieved. The Alpine hive provides favorable wintering, intensive early development and high productivity of bee colonies. In unfavorable years, the honey yield of the alpine hive is noticeably more contrasting compared to traditional hive systems.

So, for example, in 1988, at one of the apiaries in the Carpathians, the extraction of honey from each of the 50 Dadan-Blatt hives was 2 kg, and from the alpine hives - 22 kg. In each of the Alpine hives, the bees have built a honeycomb of rubbing boxes (24 frames), and in the Dadan-Blatt hives - none.

The Alpine hive proved to be not only very productive, but also very convenient to work with, easy to manufacture and cheap. Compared to other systems, in the manufacture of an alpine hive, 2-3 times less wood is consumed and expensive, tin-coated wire is not used, because there is no need to reinforce the frames. R. Delon places hives in blocks - four in one line, with a common bottom and a common roof, as strong winds are raging in the Alps. In addition, the block arrangement allows you to put 100 bee hives on an area of 0.4 hectares. In other words, the area is used about four times more economically. Another advantage of the Alpine hive is that the hulls are lightweight. A case with full combs weighs 16 kg, of which honey weighs approximately 11 kg.

The essential advantage of the Alpine hive is its frame. Their size corresponds to the maximum ability of the bees to fill them with nectar, and at the same time they are strong enough not to break when the honey extractor is operating at high speeds.

The hive is compact and during transport it allows to fill the volume of the trailer or platform optimally. In the autumn-winter period, the alpine hive does not need additional insulation with pillows and matting - it hibernates perfectly covered only with a plastic bag.

Designer R. Delon is pleased with his brainchild and almost independently serves a thousand hives located in colonies in the Alps in a 120-kilometer zone. True, sometimes he does not have time to pump out honey in time and then he has to do this work in winter.

Speaking about which hives are the best, it is worth considering another option - the combined sectional one.

How a sectional bee hive works

The combined sectional hive consists of tightly adjoining sections. This allows its volume to be increased indefinitely in any plane, therefore it combines the advantages of vertical and horizontal hives.

How does a sectional type hive work? Each section consists of a nest box, one or two store extensions, a multipurpose store basement and a universal dividing wall. The universal case has internal dimensions of 450x315 mm, which allows the use of frames of three sizes - 435x300, 300x300 and 300x435 mm - in the amount of 8 or 12 pieces.

A distinctive feature of the combined sectional hive is a universal dividing wall located between the sections when they are connected into blocks. Using it correctly, you can solve a whole range of problems. You can insert a dividing grid, a perforated or blank partition, a bee remover, glass into it.

The number of sections in a block depends on the task at hand. For example, a single-family family in the summer occupies at least three sections, and hibernates in one. To preserve heat, the sections for the winter are combined into blocks of three or four pieces.

With twin-matting, at least five sections are required. With a multi-family (the hive also allows this possibility) - the number of sections is unlimited. The hive is easy to use and allows you to use any modern methods of breeding and keeping bees.

Video: Designs of hives of various types

Often, amateur beekeepers keeping 2-3 colonies of bees are faced with the problem of “overpopulation”. After all, bees begin to swarm, which means that the question of acquiring new hives arises. But what about in this case? Not everyone can afford to buy new ones, and used ones are also dangerous. After all, it is not known why they are sold and what diseases can be purchased with the "house". Then the thought arises - why not make a beehive with your own hands? Today we will try to figure out how difficult it is and what is required for this. Surely this information will be useful to those who are just thinking about beekeeping.

Read in the article

Beekeeping for beginners - where to start for an inexperienced beekeeper

The main thing is, of course, to understand whether a person can do this difficult job. After all, not everyone can do it due to physical indicators or health conditions. The first and most important requirement is that you are not allergic to bee stings. After all, some people do not tolerate even isolated cases. If a beginner beekeeper has such a strong reaction, then the path to the apiary has been ordered for him. You should also know that bee venom, entering the body, contributes to a sharp increase in blood pressure. That is why people with heart disease and hypertensive patients are strictly prohibited from engaging in such activities.

Now for the physical condition. Those who plan to take up beekeeping should understand that this is hard, everyday work. You will need to move hives, work on a honey extractor, and much more. And do not think that this is a very profitable business that will start generating income from the very first season. After all, at first, high costs will be required for the bees themselves, hives, additional buildings. And if there are no melliferous fields nearby, it will be necessary to transport the hives from place to place, negotiating with the owners of the meadows about the building of the apiary, resolving issues with its protection. This means that the first 2-3 years there is nothing to think about any slightest profit.

But if it has already been specifically decided to tackle this difficult task, then one of the points of primary costs can be minimized - to build hives for bees with your own hands. True, this will require some knowledge and experience. But with the desire, care and accuracy, this is a completely doable job.

The device of a hive for bees: general information about what species they are

To understand how the hive works, you need to study all the information about them and figure out what this or that compartment is for. Many beekeepers, sometimes even hereditary ones, do not even know what is called. But this does not prevent them from doing what they love. However, beginners will have to figure it out. After all, for the construction you need to be able to read the drawings of the bee hives, and sometimes draw them yourself. Now we will analyze some of the types and try to understand which one is easier to build to begin with. Those who subsequently take up this business on a larger scale will eventually understand all types of bee houses. For now, let's start with the most common ones.

Dadan-Blatt's hive: its description, device and some features of use in beekeeping

Initially, this hive bore the name of only one of its inventors - Charles Dadant. But its design, although it was quite successful, still required improvement. This is exactly what the Swiss beekeeper Blatt made, who added some innovations. But to this day, among beekeepers (perhaps for simplicity), the name "Dadant's hive" is applied to this bee house.

This design is practically not used in industrial honey collection, but among amateurs it is practically the most popular. The dimensions of the beehive are given for 12 frames, the drawing of which is shown in the image below, is 585 × 585 × 815 mm.

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Important information! It doesn't matter what the hive is. It is important to make as many shops as possible. After all, this is the most important thing for honey workers. But fanaticism in this matter is also useless.

In fact, such a bee house is quite simple. In other words, the construction, if there are drawings in front of your eyes, of a Dadanov hive with your own hands, will not pose any particular problems.

What is the Langstroth Ruth hive and how it works

This design is also quite popular. And not only among amateurs, but also among industrial assemblers. It originates from the beginning of the 19th century. At that time, the first version was invented by the beekeeper Lorenzo Langstroth. However, it was somewhat inconvenient due to the fact that the bottom of the hive was not removable. This made cleaning and maintenance much more difficult. However, already at the end of the same century, the industrial beekeeper Amos Ruth slightly changed, and one might even say, simplified the design. And even today, his descendants own a company for the production of various devices for apiaries, making such beehives.

The main difference between such a bee house from the previous one is the lack of shops. In addition, the frames themselves are somewhat lower, although their widths are completely identical. Ruth's hive drawings can be easily found in the vastness of the network, therefore, it makes no sense to post them all here. Of course, for a general concept, we will present to the dear reader some of them below.

By themselves, the drawings of Langstroth's hives differ slightly from the structure of Ruth. But among beekeepers, the name of this design stuck with only one surname. By analogy with the Dadanovs, they were simply called Rutovs.

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The horned beehive of Mikhail Palivoda - the most budgetary option

Although many of those who have been professionally engaged in beekeeping for a long time and speak of such a design with disdain, for a novice beekeeper, it can truly be a godsend. In addition to the fact that it is much easier to make it than the two previous options, it can also be done from almost any scraps.

Important information! When we say "any", we do not mean oiled or rotten wood. A bee will not live where there is a foreign, even the slightest smell. It is for this reason that experienced beekeepers collect hives with nails or screws and never use adhesives. And staining is used only outside the bee house.

As for the simplicity of manufacture, looking at the photos of the drawings of the horned hive presented by us, probably even a schoolboy can make it with his own hands.

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It is also good news that almost all bee breeds can live in such a house. But especially such a structure is to the liking of Buckfast and Carpathian. The famous Burzyan bee also feels quite well in it, but for some reason the beekeepers of Bashkiria have chosen other types of structures for themselves. Perhaps because these hives are kept small enough.

Alpine hive or construction according to the Roger Delon method

Quite a convenient design due to the fact that as the number of bees in the family increases, there is no need to rebuild a new hive. You just need to add inserts, raising it in height.

Roger Delon is a rather famous French scientist beekeeper who keeps apiaries in the Alps. Moreover, due to his design of hives, he does not have time to collect honey in the summer, and therefore he does it already in the winter.

The very design of the bee house is fundamentally different from all that were mentioned earlier, and not only in structure, but also in size. It is for this reason that the maintenance of such hives is not very convenient. It is quite difficult to find a suitable honey extractor for non-standard frames. But in terms of productivity, alpine hives outpace any others, even in a non-honey year.

It is also difficult to switch from ordinary bee houses to alpine ones - “it is difficult for new settlers to get used to another structure. For this reason, if a novice beekeeper, having considered all the options, settled on the Alpine one, then you should not start with something simple with the thought that over time it will be possible to change the design. It is better in this case to immediately build a hive according to Roger Delon's design.

Such constructions appeared relatively recently, but already now they have both supporters and opponents. At the same time, there are several times more of the latter than the former. The essence of the design is to save space by narrowing the distance between the frames. This is where the main bone of contention lies.

Experienced beekeepers claim that this will lead to the appearance of layers of propolis between the frames. As a result, they will be inoperative. At the same time, there is no reason not to trust the opinion of specialists.

It also raises doubts about what is advised to do from such material as. Honestly, anyone who understands even a little about beekeeping will say that in such houses there can be no talk of any honey. The bees just won't live there.

Рchalyar: In the early 90s, one of my relatives decided to become a beekeeper. I don’t remember where, like from Moscow, they sent him a brochure with drawings, descriptions and technology of keeping bees in a hive of an original design. The honey harvest in this hive was simply unprecedented. Work began to boil. Sawed boards, from somewhere dragged posters "Give ...", "Glory ...", "Long live ..." from and built 8 pieces. I also built a pavilion, though stationary, not on wheels. Why am I all this? Yes, just that hive and yours are the same. The height of the frame seems to be larger, or maybe not, I don't remember exactly. I must say that he is a guy with hands, everything was done soundly ...
More details at Beekeeper.info: http://www.pchelovod.info/index.php?showtopic=25251

We are not giving the full review, for anyone interested - you can read it in the source. For those who do not have the desire to go to the sites, we can say that in this review a person writes that now no one else lives in those hives. Well, sometimes there are stray bees, just not the ones that give honey, but those that live on and on from time to time.

Bee hive lounger and how it differs from other bee houses

If you ask such a question to professional beekeepers, you can hear completely different answers. And the point is not that some are right and others are not. It's just that its design can be different.

Looking at this hive, you can understand that it looks the same as the others, but at the same time it seems to be lying on its side. The lid also opens upwards, but it is the top wall. Outwardly, it resembles a chest. It was for this that he was called a lounger. The design of such a hive can be similar to any of the above. It can be both Rut's and Dadan's beehives.

Let's try to also refer to the reviews of professionals - and what do they think about the do-it-yourself sunbed hive?

Danichek: I can’t answer in the affirmative, because I don’t have experience in driving bees, for example, in multihulls, which means I can’t compare. Although, I remember that in his lectures Kashkovsky claims that in Siberia it was with the help of sun beds that beekeepers achieved record honey harvests both from one hive and from an apiary in general. In my opinion, the lounger most of all allows you to create a strong honey cake (which is what we strive for), to disturb the bees with examinations less (every examination, whether the beekeeper wants it or not, brings nervousness to the family, and for a couple of days the family gets out of its normal rhythm life) ...
More details on nn.ru: https://www.nn.ru/community/user/pchely/lezhak_na_20_ramok_plyusy_i_minusy.html

Beehive boa constrictor: why it is so fond of amateur beekeepers

The secret of the popularity of such hives is in their compactness and ease of both installation and maintenance. Outwardly, it is somewhat reminiscent of the Alpine, but much smaller in size. Although those who have been engaged in beekeeping for several years say that it will not be easy for a novice beekeeper to cope with such a hive. But, as you know, everything is learned in comparison, and according to those who are close to such a design, nothing prevents them from starting with such bee houses.

Making hives a boa constrictor with your own hands according to drawings is not difficult, we will present them to the dear reader for review below. If the provided is not enough, you can always find additional information on the net.

DIY beehive: step by step instructions with photo examples

Let us analyze, using the example of six actions, how to make a beehive with your own hands from boards:

Photo example	Actions performed
	First of all, we align the pre-bonded "in a thorn" workpieces in a width of 250 mm.
	Now you need to align them along the lengths of 439 mm and 434 mm.
	Cut out the folds - top, bottom and side.
	This is how the finished parts should look like. Now it's up to the little thing - to put everything together.
	Approximately the same result should be obtained.

Of course, it is impossible to show everything in the instructions, but in fact it is not necessary. After all, any beekeeper learns all his life, trying something of his own, and therefore you will never find two beekeepers who make hives in exactly the same way. And yet we suggest watching a video on making a beehive with your own hands according to drawings and sizes. We think that after this there will be no questions left.

What you need to build a beehive with your own hands according to the drawings

The main thing that is necessary for such work is to choose the material. Bees are rather picky insects and if they don't like the house, they can just fly away to look for a new home.

It is also important to maintain the necessary microclimate in the house. That is why, when reading and parsing drawings for a bee hive with your own hands, think over and. After all, they should not be too hot or cold. It is worth paying close attention to the system as well. Do not forget that in different types of houses it is performed in its own way.

You can insulate the building with both ordinary foam and (polyurethane foam). These materials are non-toxic and odorless.

Important! In no case should you insulate the hive from the inside. Otherwise, a situation will turn out in which, due to the wax, it will simply be impossible to pull out the frames.

Whenever possible, you should try to avoid sticking. As a last resort, you need to choose a composition that is odorless. You can use hot melt glue - it is neutral, non-toxic and the bees do not react to it.

The choice is very important. The best option might be aspen or linden. Conifers are also fine, but in this case, you need to be prepared for the fact that in the first year the honey will smell a slight but tangible smell of resin.

Difficulties that may arise when building a house for bees

The main task in such work is the exact observance of all specified dimensions. And this is not just a whim of the one who came up with this or that hive. This is a necessity that has been tested over the years. Many people think that you can design and build a house for bees yourself according to your own invented dimensions, and then get honey no less than others. Will not work! It has already been said that if the distance between the frames is smaller, propolis will be formed between them by the bees and they will become inoperative. But what will happen if you make the distance more?

In this case, the bee decides that it is necessary to build intermediate combs, and as a result, the first option is obtained - everything sticks together tightly. As for the height, there are practically no restrictions. But it should be remembered that you will have to transfer the hives, which becomes problematic with a large weight.

Vagrant, alien bees are also quite a problem. Often, it is with them that various diseases come and it is with such incidents that the degeneration of the breed begins. If we again cite the Burzyan bee as an example, then its degeneration in Bashkortostan has already become noticeable. And the reason for this is the frequent arrival of beekeepers from neighboring regions.

And of course, do not forget about feeding insects with sugar syrup during the winter. After all, the main part of the honey that they cooked for the cold period is taken from them. It is worth learning about all this in more detail before making a hive yourself and settling the first guests there.

If you think about it, the process of making a beehive with your own hands is a complicated business, but quite interesting and exciting.

Frames for a bee house - the nuances of their manufacture

Frames are the backbone of the hive. And a lot depends on the quality and their correct execution.

Important! No matter what material the bee house was built from, the frames should always be made of good wood - linden, aspen or apple tree. This will provide the best tasting honey. The wire brace must be made of stainless wire if it is not wood.

Summarizing

Everyone knows that honey is not only a sweet treat, but also an excellent medicine. And the quality of the final product depends on what the beehives will be, how they will be equipped. This means that all responsibility for this lies on the shoulders of the beekeeper. Do not forget about this. Well, what type of bee house to choose is up to you, our dear reader.

If anyone has any questions, we will be happy to answer them in the discussion, and perhaps even argue. Indeed, as you know, in a dispute, truth is born. In the event that you find an inaccuracy in the information provided by us, we will be grateful if you point it out.

And finally, a video on the topic of making frames:

Wild bees can find and equip a dwelling for themselves in the first hollow that comes across. Their cultivated brethren are more demanding on the place of residence, so they will have to build a comfortable hive in which they will not only live, but also work for your benefit. By spending a small amount on materials and a couple of days to work, you will get a reliable home that will pay off with interest in the very first season.

Types of hives

You can't just take a couple of boards and build a hive without a drawing with your own hands, after all, this is not a dog kennel. You must first decide on the type. There are only two of them, and they will become the basis for further modifications, so to speak, basic models. We are talking about horizontal and vertical hives. The first is popularly called a lounger, and the second is a riser. Both have pros and cons, so it's not safe to say which design is better.

The vertical model can have two or three tiers, each of which contains about ten frames. It is possible to increase the capacity by installing additional stores or buildings.

dimensions of frame parts
stages of making the frame Fig. 1-4

The horizontal model resembles an elongated box in its shape. The initial volume can be increased by means of new cases, which are attached to the side.

We build a hive with our own hands according to the drawings

Before starting construction, you need to think over everything to the smallest detail. Do not forget that bees are very delicate and demanding in terms of keeping conditions. They cannot stand drafts and sudden temperature changes, so their home should be well insulated. It is also worth considering the possibility of further expansion. Beekeeping is a very exciting process, so you are unlikely to be limited to one hive.

The design of the bee house should provide its inhabitants with protection from heat in summer and from cold in winter. For this, the possibility of additional insulation on the sides and on the ceiling must be provided.

drawing - do-it-yourself double-hive hive
drawing - a typical beehive lounger

blueprints
shop with frames

To build a hive with your own hands according to the drawings, you will need to purchase materials. First of all, these are, of course, boards. They should be well dried, and it is better if it is soft wood. Boards should not have knots and roughness, so they are sanded before starting work.

Basic dimensions

We suggest using universal sizes that are suitable for any type and design of hives. They assume the distance between the mediastinums of the adjacent frames is 37.5 mm, and the passages for bees are 12.5 mm. When installing an additional housing, the distance between the bottom strips and the socket frames must be 10 mm. The gap from the back and front walls to the frames is 7.5 mm, and between the bottom and the bottom strip of the nest frame is 20 mm.

stages of making a beehive rice (1-4)
stages of making a beehive rice 5-8

stages of making a beehive rice 9-14
making

The roof can be made of 20 mm wide plank or double plywood. The harness is an important part. Its size is 455x455 mm, and it is made from a board, 15 mm wide. Along the perimeter of the strapping, strips are attached, the task of which is to prevent the cover from sliding off. To protect against atmospheric agents, all parts are coated with oil.

The bottom is made in the form of a simple frame. Its size is adjusted to the size of the hive. Some models provide a removable bottom, but this design has poor tightness.

horizontal hive type
vertical type

The walls are made of boards, the width of which is 20 mm. In addition to nails, for greater strength, it is advisable to connect them with dowels.

An important component the bee house is the diaphragm. It separates the nest from the rest of the space. For it, 10 mm plywood is used, along the perimeter of which the sides are fixed. The diaphragm should be easily removable and secured. A different wood is used for the frames. The ideal option would be birch or aspen. The approximate amount of material can be calculated using a do-it-yourself hive drawing.

As mentioned earlier, you are unlikely to be limited to one hive. Beekeeping is a lot of fun, so you can make your own adjustments to the next model based on personal experience.

They got used to hiding their homes in hollows or in the dense crown of trees. Therefore, in order for insects to quickly acclimatize in a new environment, experienced ones try to create optimal conditions for bees for reproduction and create delicious food. In this article, you will learn how to create a beehive with your own hands, which materials are better for bee housing and arrangement options.

Main structural elements

Before sketching a design, you need to know what a bee hive consists of. This is because the beekeeper is trying to create shelter for insects that supports their biological needs. However, this design will not always be convenient for bees.
Mostly, all structures of the hive consist of a body, two compartments, a cover and a store. Outwardly, it looks like an elongated box with a solid roof and bottom.

The enclosures are made up of walls. The dimensions depend on the type of construction. There may be several of them. There are bee entrances on the walls.

The store may be optional, however, it is suitable for preservation when honey collection occurs. There is also a roof liner (another version of the store, but without recesses). It is located between the roof and top. It serves as a heater. A feeder for bees can also be installed in the liner.

The bottom is located under the body and can be removable or non-removable. The first option allows you to properly care for the bees if they need medical attention. Non-removable forms a ledge that serves as an air landing.
Some beekeepers make a ceiling that will keep the hive warm. You can position it at the top of the slot above the frames.

The roof is the protection and the main element of the hive. She is able to shelter insects from atmospheric phenomena. The roof is flat and gable. The first allows you to transport the hive.

The frame is used for arranging honeycombs for bees. It consists of an upper and a lower bar, as well as two side strips. The frames are equipped with dividers and are located in the top of the block.

How to choose materials and tools to create

Only natural and high quality materials are used to create the hive. In the following sections, you will be able to understand what are needed to build a nest, as well as find out the advantages and disadvantages of each of the materials.

Most popular materials

The first and quite popular material for creating a hive is wood. It "breathes" well and releases steam outside. Basically, they choose wood, such as, and. You can also take poplar or aspen. Wood has a low level of thermal conductivity, protecting bees in hot and cold weather.

Important! To make hives, choose a material that is free of rotten areas, knots and cracks.

The only drawback of this material is the ability to retain moisture that enters the hive.

Plywood hives are characterized as environmentally friendly and durable. They are quite heavy and can be transported well. Plywood is superior to wood in terms of thermal insulation and dryness.
To do this, plywood must be covered with special acrylic paint and the walls of the hive must be insulated with expanded polystyrene.

In such hives, bees spend less energy on heating, because inside, all the comfortable conditions for living and producing honey are already created.

Many beekeepers choose expanded polystyrene, as it is cheap and has a high level of thermal insulation. It is easy to work with and carry out repairs.
The only drawbacks of this material are low strength indicators and an unpleasant taste of honey, since bees can taste expanded polystyrene.

If you want to produce honey, but you have a small amount of cash available, then you can make a hive from foam... The design turns out to be quite lightweight, retains warmth in winter and keeps cool in summer.

The only drawback is painting the finished hive to protect the foam from atmospheric agents.
Polyurethane foam used to insulate buildings. It has a low level of thermal conductivity, but this property will be useful for creating a hive. Polyurethane foam does not allow moisture to pass through, does not rot, does not react to solvents and protects the nest from germs and fungi. The material is strong enough, and mice cannot damage it.

The only drawback is flammability. But this can be corrected by an additional ventilation system.

Polycarbonate characterized by strength, lightness and durability. The material is suitable for keeping insects, as it can withstand low and high temperatures, it is not afraid of direct sun exposure.
Inside the nest, this material will maintain an optimal microclimate for the bees.

List of tools for making a house for bees

To create a hive, you will need the following tools:

Axe
Hacksaws of different sizes
Hammer
Drills
Jointer
Bit
Plane
Marking tool
Electric tools
Corner spikes
PVA glue"
Nest frame (can be borrowed from an experienced beekeeper).

How to make a beehive with your own hands

Now that you have chosen the optimal material for yourself and collected all the necessary tools, we proceed to the most important thing. In the following sections, you will learn how to assemble a bee hive from different materials.

Wood

For making a beehive, choose wooden boards with a moisture content that fluctuates around 15-16%. The amount of material is selected depending on the number and dimensions of the body. Drawings are best taken from experienced beekeepers.

Important! Adhere to the basic parameters of the main elements to simplify operation.

Hive body

You will also need 4cm boards for the bottom and body. We make grooves in the boards to connect the walls of the case.

We make strips 18X4 mm in size.

We connect the boards into shields, lubricating the grooves with PVA glue. It is very important to press them tightly together so that no gaps form.
And so we make 4 walls. You need to assemble the body in the form of shields, which can be connected using a tongue and groove and casein glue. The dimensions of the back and front walls are 605x320 mm. Side walls - 530x320 mm. In the side walls we make grooves 5 mm deep and 20 mm wide.

Important! Distance between grooves-450 mm.

Let's start creating the back and front walls. They should be collected in temporary boards made of boards (thickness - 15mm). The dimensions of the walls are 675x500 mm. The dimensions of the outer side walls are 560x500 mm.

On a permanent place, the boards of the outer walls must be nailed separately in order to properly fit into place. We fix the inner walls with glue, the corners must be fixed strictly straight. The bottom edge of the case is best positioned horizontally.

Lower and upper trays

The lower tray must be made according to the following dimensions - 1x25 cm, placing it from 5 cm from the right wall of the hive. The upper tray has dimensions of 1x10 cm, it should be located at a distance of 12 cm from the right wall of the hive. Its height is 3 cm below the edge of the upper bars of the frames.
Underframe space

In the back wall at the level of the bottom, it is necessary to make a wedge-shaped hole to make it easier to fight varroatosis. It can be closed with an insert (dimensions 45x4 cm).

With the holes for trays, you enclose the space between the walls of the hive with small corridors made of planks. Dimensions - 1.5x2 cm.

Parallel to the front inner wall on the body, we will nail the first layer of the floor. Floor length - 65 cm. The first board should be positioned so that it protrudes 1 cm beyond the body. On this ledge we make arrival boards. Then we nail down the rest of the floorboards. After that, turn the case upside down and lay a layer of cardboard and roofing material. The next layer of the floor is boards.

Outer walls

After you've made the floor and nailed down the inner walls, install the outer walls. We nail the front and rear from the bottom of the case each. The ends should protrude 2 cm beyond the side walls. At this time, we lay insulation between the walls. Cut holes in the front board for the tray. There should be a hole in the back wall for the sub-frame space.

Also, for stability, it is necessary to nail the pads to the corner outer walls.

At the ends of the rear and front walls, which protrude 2 cm beyond the side inner walls, it is necessary to fill the side outer boards with a thickness of 15 cm.Around the entire perimeter of the inner walls, strips of 4x2 cm should be nailed.

On the strips of the front and back sides of the hive, folds should be selected (dimensions 1x1 cm) in order to install the frames. The planks must be placed tightly on the insulating material.
Insulating material

Moss should be used to fill the space between walls. It should be more dried, since such moss will fill the voids well.

Also used are styrofoam, insulation board, cotton wool, wool and tow.

Since beekeepers have to very often raise the roof and put it back on, the product should be lightweight. This requires a strapping. It should be done with a height of 12 cm from boards 15 cm thick.
Above the nest under the roof, it is necessary to leave a free space with a height of 24 cm. In this place we place a store on a half-frame and a heating pillow.

Pillow

The pillow is placed between the sides on the canvas so that it fits snugly against the side walls.

The pillow is 1 cm above the nest. Dimensions - 75x53. The thickness of the padding is 10 cm. You can also use moss, but it is best used for insulating the side walls.

Bee entrance

Leave 1 cm between the bottom and the bottom edge of the housing for the passage of bees and ventilation in winter.

Did you know? It is better to paint the hive white, as this color is better remembered by insects.

Styrofoam

To make a styrofoam hive, you will need styrofoam leaves, self-tapping screws (5 cm), fine sandpaper, water-based paint, liquid nails, a paint roller, a ruler, a screwdriver (screwdriver), a utility knife, and a circular saw.

Important! All the objects in the hive are connected in the same way as the wooden bases of the bee nest.

The foam sheets should be of the following dimensions - 3x5 cm. On paper we prepare a sketch of the structure and transfer it to the foam using a marker and a ruler.

We cut out the structure with a clerical knife, saw or hacksaw for metal. We clean the edges with sandpaper.
We fasten the side walls with overlaps (cut out quarters at the joints and drive the walls tightly into each other). We fix the elements with liquid nails.

To secure the result, use self-tapping screws around the perimeter.

Polyurethane

You will need 8 metal plates for the case. Four slabs will form the outer contour, and the other four will form the inner contour. Spacers must be installed between the opposing inner plates. The outer tiles should be bolted together.

Metal strips must be screwed to the inner sides of the outer tiles, which form recesses in the body for gripping.

The base and cover are made with grooves. Slabs will be inserted into them. Strips of metal are applied along the edges and the parts are bolted together.

Drill holes along the inner and outer perimeter of the housing and cover. During assembly, threaded metal rods will be inserted into them.

Bolts should be screwed onto the rods, holding the entire structure firmly. Holes for pouring the mixture and a valve with a plug should be made in the lid. They will close this hole. Bottom and roof

The roof needs 2 rectangular pieces. One should have protruding sides at the edges, the other should have a protruding rectangular inner part.

The bottom is a rectangular frame with a metal mesh in the middle. It is made from individual polyurethane foam blocks. You can fasten them with bolts.

You should have 4 bar molds. In all the bars, you need to put a strip of metal along the inner perimeter, which will form folds. We put a metal mesh on them and nail them with a stapler.

The front block is best positioned lower in height to create a slot for the tray. After casting with a cutter, select the grooves in the inner side walls for the bottom valve. We cut it out of polycarbonate. We also place the rear block lower in height in order to insert the latch into this slot. Preparation of a mixture of polyurethane foam

This material is obtained from the reactions of a polyol and a polyisozonate.

When pouring the mixture, you need to correctly calculate the total mass for the process. This can be done by calculating the volume of the hive part: multiply it by the width, thickness and length. The resulting amount must be multiplied by the technological loss factor (1.15) and the estimated density of polyurethane foam (60 kg / m2).

After processing, we collect the form. The inner slabs are installed in the grooves of the base, and plastic corners should be placed inside the slabs, which will serve as folds for the frames. The corners can be secured with thick thread.

We install and fix them with screws and braces of the inner strut. Then we install the outer plates and fasten them with bolts, placing the top of the form with grooves on the walls. We twist all this with metal rods.

Pour the polyurethane foam mixture into this form, but not completely, as it expands. As soon as foam begins to show from the hole, the mold must be closed with a latch.

In the same way, we fill the molds for the lid and the bottom. After pouring the mold for the lid, pour a small amount of gravel into it so that the lid will hold steadily against gusts of wind.

The mixture hardens within 30 minutes. After that, we unscrew the bolts that hold the rods. Using a wooden block and a hammer, knock down the upper part of the mold.

After that, we unscrew the bolts on the edges of the form, doing this little by little, so as not to deform the structure. So we go through two circles over all the bolts, and then remove the spacers.
Parts of the mold are cleaned of polyurethane foam particles, and the excess along the edges of the body can be removed with a sharp knife. After that, the structure is cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper.

Then we cover the product with facade acrylic paint to protect the hive from ultraviolet radiation. Such a coating will not be damaged by temperature extremes.

Coloring occurs within a week after production, but not earlier than after 8 hours.

Arrangement of the hive

Now we should start building a hive for bees.

In the American method of brooding bees in an apiary, 5 types of insect families are created: maternal, paternal, starter, incubator and family educator. For this method, you need to have a hive-lounger for 24 frames, an entrance, two diaphragms that will move freely in the hive, one blind diaphragm with a rubber band, one diaphragm with a dividing grid. A feeder and pillows are also needed.
In autumn or spring, we populate a family with a good breeding uterus. In the fall, they are fed with honey and treated for varroatosis and prophylaxis with anti-dermatological agents. In the spring

Undoubtedly, the invention of such a device as a collapsible frame-based hive was a real breakthrough in the field of beekeeping. The making of beehives was introduced into practice by the famous Russian and Ukrainian scientist P. I Prokopovich. Until that time, people had no idea how to organize the work of insects, and the procedure for collecting honey led to the ruin of the nests, from which the combs were broken.

The structure should be large enough for reproduction and honey storage, as well as unified so as not to disturb the bees when assembling and disassembling it.

Manufacturing can be done by any craftsman. The technology is not particularly difficult and does not require specific skills.

Material selection

The optimal materials for hives are the following trees:

Pine;
fir;
aspen.

This takes into account the moisture content of the material. It must be thoroughly dried. The moisture coefficient should be no higher than 15%.

Making beehives with your own hands requires the selection of quality wood. Do not buy boards with cracks, rot, knots and wormholes. Pore material is also not recommended. Its use is possible only for facing work.

Basic principles for making beehives

Making beehives at home involves the following rules:

Details for the future product should be smoothly planed. Burrs and notches are not allowed. The cut points should be at right angles to the longitudinal edges.
It is necessary to ensure that when sewing the cases, the cut from the side of the core is on the outside.
The planks are connected with nails. Their thickness is selected taking into account in order to avoid splitting of the material.
Dried wood may crack. To avoid this, it is recommended to subject the outer walls of the hives to a linseed oil-based primer. A light shade of paint is added to it: white, blue or yellow.
Bee houses can be made from boards of any width. It is recommended to make the walls from the inside from one solid board or from two, which are connected with a tongue or groove. The outer sheathing can be made of gaps of any size. They should be located at different levels.
Do-it-yourself hives are made according to the pattern. Drawings are of paramount importance. Without them, it will be very difficult for the master to imagine what he is doing.

Possible deviations from dimensions

With a process such as making beehives with your own hands, the dimensions, drawings must be accurate. The amount of possible deviation is 1 mm, according to the diagram. If it has a higher indicator, then additional adjustment will be required.

Extending the life of the hives

The manufacturing technology of hives has its own characteristics. But the devices also require further maintenance. If you want the design to serve you for many years, you must adhere to a number of rules:

use only high-quality material;
paint the outside of the hive every 2-3 years.

How to make a beehive?

Making bee hives with your own hands has many advantages. The service life of such a design is at least 10 years. You save money and enjoy the work done.

In such a case as making hives with your own hands, the dimensions of the slats are very important. In beekeeping, they often resort to making a double-walled model of 16 frames. The dimensions of the frame are 435x300 mm.

Making hives involves the following steps:

First of all, the inner walls of the house are cut out (back, front and side parts). The thickness of the boards is 2 cm. They are assembled like shields. They are connected by means of a tongue or casein glue. The size of the back and front panels is 605x320 mm, and the side ones are 530x320 mm. Grooves are selected in the sidewalls. Their depth is 5 mm and their width is 20 mm. The distance between the grooves is 450 mm.
Next, proceed to the manufacture of the rear and front outer walls. They are collected in temporary structures in the form of shields. The thickness of the boards is 15 mm. The size of the boards is 675x500 mm. The outer side walls have dimensions of 560x500 mm. Each outer wall board is nailed separately. Fitting to the location is important here. The glued interior walls are secured with temporary nail clamps. All corners should be straight and the bottom edge should be horizontal.
In the case, which consists only of internal walls and does not have a bottom, a lower notch is made. Its size is 10x250 mm. It starts 50 mm from the right side of the hive. The notch located on top has a size of 10x100 mm. It is located 120 mm from the right side of the hive, and in height - 30 mm from the extreme side of the frame bars located on top.
A wedge-shaped hole is made in the back wall of the hive at the bottom level. It extends into the space under the frame, which is necessary to protect against varroatosis. It is closed by an insert of the same shape. Its size is 450x40 mm (inner side) and 450x45 mm (outer side).
The openings of the notches help to fencing from the space between the walls of the hive by small corridors based on planks. Their thickness is 10-15 mm, and the width is 20 mm between the walls.
On the body, which has only inner walls, parallel to the front one, the first layer of the boards that make up the floor is nailed (their length is 635 mm). The first board protrudes forward by 10-15 mm beyond the structural redistribution. Arrival platforms are mounted on the ledge. In this case, the straightness of the corners between the bottom and the walls of the house is checked. Then, subject to accuracy, the boards of the first floor layer are nailed, while the wall space should not be blocked. A sheet of roofing material or cardboard is placed on the first layer of the floor, and then the bottom layer is nailed. It also blocks the space between the walls of the hive.
The outer front and outer rear walls are nailed onto the area of the ends of the walls located from the inside (protruding by 20 mm). Work begins at the bottom of the hive. Each board is nailed in turn. The end of each plank should also protrude 20 mm. In parallel, the walls are insulated. A notch is made in the first front wall. A hole is cut in the back wall into the space under the frame.
To ensure stability of the outer walls, in the area forming the rim over the nest, the boards are nailed from the outside to the corner plates. On the ends of the rear and front walls, which protrude 20 mm beyond the side inner parts, the side outer parts are stuffed. Their thickness is 15 mm.
On the inner walls of the hive along the entire perimeter, strips of 40x20 mm are nailed, which overlap the space between the walls with the upper part.
In the strips that are nailed on the front and back of the device, 10x10 mm folds are selected in order to put the frames. The planks should fit tightly to the insulation in the space between the walls, and with corner splices, they should merge into a single line of the plane.

How to insulate?

To insulate the space between the walls, they resort to the use of various materials.

For example, when making a hive, an even layer of sphagnum moss can be spread on the inner wall and pressed tightly against the outer wall. Moss is used not dried, but dried. Elasticity is inherent in it.

Styrofoam sheets can also be used. Their thickness for the above design should be 22 mm. They are also placed on interior walls.

They also resort to using a building insulation board, as well as soft porous cardboard, the thickness of which is 12 mm. Plates or cardboard are cut to the shape of the walls and pressed by the boards from the outside.

The use of tow, cotton wool, or wool as insulation is not recommended, since these materials do not allow air to pass through and often contain odors.

Making a hive roof

The roof of the hive should be lightweight. The beekeeper often takes it off and puts it on. In order for these procedures to be carried out without the help of outsiders, the design should not be bulky.

The height of the roof rail is 120 mm. It is assembled from 15 mm thick boards. A free space is formed above the nest under the roof. Its height is 240 mm (120 mm of the rim under the socket and 120 mm for the roof rail). In this space, there is a half-frame store, and a warming pillow is placed on top. It sits on top of the nest between the beads on the canvas that covers the frames. The pillow should fit snugly.

The pillow and pillowcase are large in comparison with the inter-board space by 70-100 mm. Therefore, the recommended size of the pillowcase is 750x538 mm, and the thickness after filling is 70-100 mm.

The pillow is placed on the nesting frames. It is laid between the sides. It helps to retain heat. This is especially important in the spring, after the first flyby, when the lack of heat becomes disastrous in the northwestern region, where the spring bees grow.

The choice of material for the pillow

The best and cheapest material for a pillow is moss. But many beekeepers are of the opinion that moss is not suitable for insulation both in the pillow and in the side walls. Pillows, in their opinion, are subject to sediment. As a result of this, an empty space is formed, in which it will always see through, since the insert board also does not differ in tightness. The microclimate in the hive suffers.

Instead of moss, an option from slabs or foam is offered. Such constructions are extremely warm.

The size of the board for the passage of bees is 8-10 mm. At the same time, it is important that insulation in winter is used along with ventilation. Good insulation is required, as we said, in the spring.

The hive can be designed around 12 and 14 frames. Then the indicator of its internal length will be 450 and 530 mm. Therefore, it is necessary to increase the size of other parts.

For greater clarity, in the manufacture of hives, it is advised to resort to the use of drawings. They will make your job much easier.

Each beekeeper, striving to improve his apiary, is looking for modern drawings and materials. The innovative designs include beehives made of expanded polystyrene. The material has thermal conductivity and lightness.

Conservative beekeepers will not trade wood hives for any other construction. In their opinion, there is nothing more practical than making hives out of wood. But no material is absolutely perfect.

Advantage of Styrofoam Beehives

The design has a number of advantages:

a house is obtained, characterized by silence and strength;
hives are not subject to hypothermia or overheating;
cases can be made of the same size and interchanged;
there are few allowances in the design;
hives do not allow moisture to pass through and do not crack;
they do not contain chips and notches;
they are durable and comfortable;
easy to disassemble;
protect insects from bad weather;
provide microclimate stability for bees;
expanded polystyrene is not subject to decay;
the walls of the body are smooth;
no additional insulation with canvases and pillows is required.

It should also be noted that the house is easy to make yourself. Its drawings are quite simple. This design is economical. But many beekeepers note that making such a house with their own hands is somewhat difficult.

Disadvantages of such structures

There are a number of disadvantages in this design:

Internal seam parts are not strong.
The cases of propolis are difficult to clean.
In wood hives, you can disinfect with lamps, but here you cannot. Chemicals will be required, which can be harmful to insects and disrupt the design itself. Some beekeepers resort to washing the hives with water or alkaline agents. For example, the ash of sunflower tops is used.
The body does not absorb moisture, it flows down to the bottom of the structure.
In expanded polystyrene hives, the amount of food eaten by bees increases. If the family of bees is strong, then it produces up to 25 kg of honey. This requires ventilation, which reduces feed intake.
The hive is more suitable for weaker insect families.
Due to the impossibility of regulating the entrances, bees begin to steal honey from each other, and the microclimate is disturbed. It is possible that rodents will penetrate there.

What tools do you need?

Making hives from expanded polystyrene requires the following tools:

pencil or felt-tip pen;
self-tapping screws (5 cm and 7 cm);
glue;
stationery knife;
meter ruler made of metal;
screwdriver;
plastic squares for decoration (for a start, they are glued into the folds so that when the frame is removed, the material is not painted).

It is important to carefully make your own beehives. Dimensions, drawing should be clearly marked. Expanded polystyrene is fragile.

There should be no gaps, as light rays can begin to penetrate between the walls of the case, and insects will begin to gnaw the hole. As a result, an additional entrance is formed.

All tools should be at hand. must be well sharpened.

In the bottom there is a strong ventilation mesh, which corresponds to the mesh size of no more than 3.5 mm. An excellent choice would be a mesh for car tuning, made of aluminum.

Manufacturing steps

For the manufacture of a structure from expanded polystyrene, they resort to using a drawing. Everything should be marked out in advance.

A knife is taken and along the marked lines, observing a right angle, is carried out several times until the plate is cut to the end. This is how the blanks are made.
The surfaces to be glued are coated with glue and compressed tightly. Parts are fastened by means of self-tapping screws. Fasteners are made with a deviation of 10 cm.