How to make a hood in the bath - design and installation of ventilation. Forced ventilation in the bath: ways to organize and install a good hood How to make ventilation ducts in the bath

A high-quality ventilation system is an indispensable element of the steam room. The absence or improper organization of ventilation in the bath is dangerous to human health. A properly equipped system will protect people from carbon monoxide and improve the comfort of staying indoors. We will talk about the features and technology of installing the ventilation system in the bath later.

Characteristics of proper ventilation for the steam room

Proper ventilation in the bath performs several functions at once:

provides the room with oxygen;
improves the comfort of staying in the steam room;
removes carbon monoxide;
allows economically expedient to spend firewood;
evenly distributes air flow;
protects the building from the formation of mold or fungus.

The best option for ventilation in the bath is supply and exhaust. For these purposes, equip:

air inlet - through them an influx of fresh air into the steam room is organized, a fan with a ventilation tube is installed, additional air inflow is provided by open windows or through the door;
exhaust hole - the removal of heated air from the room, through the furnace, blower or devices that improve traction.

To improve the supply and exhaust ventilation system, various methods are used. We offer you to get acquainted with one of the most effective ventilation systems:

1. The supply openings are located at the bottom of the room, next to the firebox.

2. Exhaust openings strictly on the opposite side from above. It is possible to organize two holes at once for better air control.

3. The height of the exhaust port determines the draft level. If the vent is low, additionally reinforce the system with a vent pipe.

4. With the help of special dampers, the air supply from the room is controlled.

5. The air in the steam room is renewed every 2-3 hours.

In addition, the individual parameters of the ventilation system are determined by the type of room, the version of the bath. For example, in a Russian bath, periodic ventilation will help renew the air. In addition, the size and location of the installation of the furnace are taken into account; in relation to this parameter, two types of ventilation are organized.

How to make ventilation in a steam room with a separate firebox

We offer a variant of the organization of ventilation in the steam room, the firebox of which is located in the next room. This scheme is popular in ordinary Russian baths. To bring the firebox to an adjacent room, a furnace tunnel is used. Among the advantages of this arrangement of the furnace, we note:

lack of garbage in the steam room;
the door to the room opens only at the entrance;
the possibility of mounting heat-resistant glass for admiring an open flame.

There are two ways to install air inlets in a room:

1. Arrangement of a ventilation duct in the underground space. Removing it in front of the furnace room, installing ventilation grilles on the channel.

2. Floor supply of ventilation.

On the opposite wall, install the hood, diagonally in relation to the air inlet.

The main quality of the organization of proper ventilation is that the inlet openings in area should coincide with the exhaust ones.

Ventilation scheme in a steam room with a firebox indoors

If the stove-heater is located directly in the steam room, then the organization of ventilation is different. In this case, air flows through the blower solve the problem with natural ventilation. This method is appropriate if the fire in the furnace is constantly.

If there is no chimney in the bath, and the stove operates in a short-term mode, a more advanced ventilation system is used. Familiarize yourself with the technology of arranging the ventilation system in the steam room:

1. Build a special brick podium on which the oven is installed. With its help, a ventilation duct is supplied to the furnace.

2. Lay the ends, build another box of bricks. As a result, the first structure is installed at the top of the furnace channel, and the second - to the door of the steam room.

3. On a wall adjacent to a regular room, build doors in the places where the masonry passes. They heat the next room, if necessary.

4. An oven is installed on the podium, it can be mounted on a corner or on steel paintings. Finish the furnace with brick, install a brick screen, with two convection valves.

5. The exhaust ventilation system operates due to the furnace furnace.

Correct installation of the ventilation system is based on its correct adjustment. General rules for managing the ventilation system:

at the beginning of the furnace furnace, all openings and supply and exhaust are closed;
wait for the temperature to rise, then adjust the vents with valves;
if it is necessary to increase the volume of oxygen in the room, open the inlet;
upon completion of work, open the shutters for better ventilation of the steam room.

Steam room ventilation photo:

To determine the temperature and humidity in the room, use special devices. An alcohol or electric type thermometer will help measure the temperature. Please note that the use of the mercury version is strictly prohibited. Use a hygrometer to determine the humidity level.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system is based on the following factors:

melting the oven, the air is gradually heated and exits through the convection door;
the lower door remains open until the oven is fully heated;
close the door from below and work with the top hatch;
in the process of soaring, only the blower installed on the box opens;
after using the steam room for its intended purpose, ventilate the room well.

Do-it-yourself ventilation device in the steam room

The main functions of the ventilation system in the bath:

air supply during bath procedures;
high-quality room drying.

The ventilation system in the bath should not:

violate the temperature of the room, in the process of taking bath procedures;
to separate temperature flows, that is, cool air is closer to the floor, and warm air is from above;
remove unused air from the steam room.

In addition, the lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of unpleasant air in the room, the formation of mold and fungus, which are harmful to human health.

There are three main types of ventilation in the steam room:

the natural option is the supply of air flows through the pressure difference;
mechanical option - air supply using special mechanisms, when measuring these characteristics with instruments;
combined option - the creation of artificial pressure by fans and hoods.

There are two types of air transport in the room: supply and exhaust. For these purposes, a hole located diagonally with respect to the inlet is equipped.

It is not recommended to install an exhaust outlet in the steam room on the ceiling, this ventilation system increases the warm-up time of the room. It is rational to install the hood under the ceiling, additionally equipping a damper on it to adjust the draft.

In addition, provide a ventilated floor in the bath. Thus, the life of the floor covering is increased, as it is in constant contact with water. Recommendations for the arrangement of floor ventilation:

1. During the installation of the foundation base, ensure the ventilation of the floors, build vents from the basement.

2. On opposite walls, build ventilation holes that provide air flow. Install gratings on them to prevent rodents from entering.

3. The finished floor should be slightly higher in level than the blower is located. Thus, it will function as a hood.

4. Install wooden boards with a small gap, at least half a centimeter.

5. After taking bath procedures, ventilate the room well and dry the floors.

Another way to organize the ventilation system in the bath is “According to Bast”. In this case, fresh air enters the room from the ward space, and exhaust from the hole located near the door. For these purposes, build an exhaust box made of wood, lined with foil inside.

Build a ventilation duct under the floor, next to a metal sheet that prevents heat from entering it. The size of the structure should not exceed twenty percent. Adjusting the flow of fresh air through such a system is quite simple. It is enough to open the vent and blower. In addition, it is possible to avoid the accumulation of an unpleasant aroma in the steam room. This method of organizing ventilation is appropriate if the firebox is located directly in the steam room.

Ways to organize ventilation in the steam room with your own hands

Install the inlet under the stove 50 cm from the floor, and the outlet on the opposite side, thirty centimeters from the ceiling. The forced movement of air masses is provided by a fan. Thus, it is possible to ensure uniform heating of the air. The height of the first opening regulates the draft force of natural ventilation.

Two ventilation holes are located on the same wall, always opposite the stove. The inlet is installed at a distance of thirty centimeters from the floor, and the outlet is thirty centimeters from the ceiling. Install a fan in the outlet, the cooled air, entering the room, collides with the stove, heats up and exits.

Position the inlet behind the stove, at a distance of about twenty centimeters from the floor. The inlet is installed at the same height, only near the ceiling of the opposite wall. A hood is installed in the second hole. The principle of operation of the system is based on the ingress of cooled air into the steam room, passing through the furnace and pulling out the second hole.

This method is relevant for a steam room with a floor that has holes for water to drain. The inlet is installed behind the furnace, and the outlet is a drain pipe through which air is vented to the outside.

Relevant for a bath with a constantly working stove. The inlet is arranged opposite the stove, and the blower with a chimney acts as an outlet

If it is necessary to increase the temperature in the steam room, it is enough to close all the plugs. After taking bath procedures, they are removed. It is quite possible to organize these ventilation schemes on your own, without buying expensive appliances and special material investments.

How to make a vapor barrier for a steam room with your own hands

Vapor barrier in the steam room allows you to maintain the optimum temperature of the room. Special materials in the form of vapor-tight films, insulation and waterproofing will help create high-quality vapor barrier. The film provides protection of the insulation from the penetration of water vapor, while not letting in the moisture that is in the hot air.

Qualitatively equipped vapor barrier and ventilation system increase the service life of the room itself and its exterior finish. Since hot air rises, first of all, vapor barrier the ceiling with high quality.

For these purposes, use lahi, boards, about 6 cm thick. From above, they are covered with aluminum-based foil, cardboard with increased density or waxed paper soaked in drying oil. After fixing one of these materials, the ceiling is finished with clay and insulated.

In addition, the edged board will help to vaporize the ceiling. On the boards, cardboard impregnated with drying oil is installed, which is then sheathed with wooden clapboard.

Expanded polystyrene boards are a modern replacement for soft clay, they are distinguished by good thermal insulation and performance characteristics.

As vapor barrier materials for the walls of the steam room use:

Glassine and roofing material for thermal insulation of the steam room are rarely used. This is due to the fact that with strong heating, they emit toxic substances and unpleasant odors. The steam room is vapor-proofed with special foil materials. Allocate combined methods of vapor and thermal insulation. For example, NPP polypropylene, among its advantages we note:

excellent resistance to moisture;
resistance to temperature increase;
laminated coating prevents the development of mold and mildew;
combined thermal insulation.

In addition, it is possible to use rolled vapor barrier in the form of rolled foil or fiberglass boards. To seal the joints between vapor barrier materials, use foil tape.

The plates are installed on the ceiling with a small compensation gap of 20 mm. Thus, the effect of moisture on these areas is reduced. Please note that the vapor barrier in the steam room must be securely hidden behind the main finishing material, and a high-quality ventilation system is its complement.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room

Baths, saunas and swimming pools A high-quality ventilation system is an indispensable element of the steam room. The absence or improper organization of ventilation in the bath is dangerous to human health.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath: how to do it right

Why do you need to attend to the question of how to properly ventilate the bath? Not only maintaining a comfortable temperature in the dressing room, washing room, steam room, rest room, but also safety, as well as the service life of the building and its parts, depends on how well the ventilation in the bath is arranged. When designing a bath and starting its construction, it should be remembered that the ventilation in the bath with your own hands must be done taking into account certain subtleties and nuances. With your own hands, with the help of instructions, photos and videos, all stages of ventilation installation in the bath and steam room can be performed.

Properly arranged ventilation in the bath will provide a comfortable temperature inside the steam room and extend the life of wooden elements.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system in the bath

The operation of the ventilation system is based on well-known physical laws, and the scheme of its device is simple and understandable. Two types of openings are required for continuous air circulation:

Air inlets are needed to bring fresh air into the room. With the correct ventilation device in the bath, they should be located as close as possible to the floor and near the stove. With this arrangement, the incoming air heats up quickly and the temperature in the bath is stably maintained.

The direction of movement of air masses inside the steam room

Exhaust openings are designed to remove superheated humidified air and carbon monoxide from the steam room. They should be arranged as high as possible, that is, just below the ceiling level, and be located opposite the air inlets in order to create and maintain a constant air exchange.

Advice! An exhaust hole in the ceiling will lead to rapid cooling of the room, so this location is undesirable.

There are no difficulties with the fundamental localization of supply and exhaust openings when installing ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands. But the task of maintaining a high temperature in the steam room while effectively removing exhaust air and carbon monoxide from it is not easy.

You also need to pay attention to maintaining a temperature that is comfortable for both sanitary and hygienic procedures and for relaxation, in all parts of the bath: dressing room, washing room, relaxation room. And if you have to create and implement a ventilation scheme in the bath with your own hands, you should think about the competent execution of work.

Scheme of proper air circulation in the bath

Types of ventilation

There are two types of ventilation:

Which one to choose when installing a ventilation system with your own hands depends on the design of the bath and the volume of its premises.

Ventilation system with electronic control unit

natural ventilation

This type of ventilation works due to the difference in temperature and pressure inside and outside the room. The efficiency of its work depends on the location of the openings for the inflow and outlet of air. The most suitable solution is that the supply openings are located near the floor, at a height of 250-350 mm, next to the stove, and the exhaust openings are on the opposite wall, 150-200 mm below the ceiling level.

The best photos of finishing the bath inside and a description of the stages of work. Sequence of actions when repairing a sauna. Recommended materials and installation rules for use. Waterproofing and wall insulation.

Natural ventilation systems are not suitable for ventilating a steam room or steam room, since the cold air in this room is collected at the very floor, and the hot air is collected at the top. Adjusting the movement of air flows is accompanied by difficulties, but with the correct arrangement of the ventilation elements in the steam room of a Russian bath, it is possible to cope with this problem with your own hands.

Natural ventilation is not suitable for a steam room, it is advisable to equip it in a rest room

Forced ventilation

For this type of ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath or sauna, two subspecies can be distinguished:

Ventilation with the help of special electronic systems that control the temperature and humidity of the air, regulating its flow and filtration with the help of automation. Such systems are quite expensive, and their use is often knocked out of the budget.
Combined ventilation system, when due to the use of fans, the effect of natural ventilation is obtained.

The location of the ventilation ducts inside the walls of the bath

Dependence of the bath ventilation system on the type of building

Natural ventilation, provided that the vents are correctly positioned and their sizes correspond to the volumes of the premises, functions well in a Russian bath, assembled from a log or a beam.

The frame building is a sealed structure. It is advisable to use forced ventilation in frame baths. The supply opening in the outer wall of the steam room should be additionally equipped with a blower fan.

In a brick or foam block building, only forced ventilation is possible.

The type of ventilation system is selected depending on the materials from which the bath is built.

Planning the ventilation system of the bath: subtleties and nuances

Before proceeding with the choice of the ventilation scheme in the bath and the device of its design with your own hands, you need to understand the intricacies and nuances of design.

Fact! Even small errors in the layout of the supply and exhaust openings lead to undesirable consequences. In the steam room, either the constant air temperature will decrease, or the concentration of carbon monoxide will increase.

During the construction of any bath - the ventilation of the bath and its schematic diagram is laid in the process of construction. The question "how to make ventilation in the bath" should be decided at the design stage.

The ventilation ducts of the dressing room, washing room, steam room, rest rooms and openings for the inflow of fresh air and the removal of a mixture of carbon monoxide with exhausted moist and hot air masses must be laid at the appropriate stages of construction. Gate valves and gratings to control the size of supply and exhaust openings and sections of ventilation ducts are already installed at the stage of finishing the premises.

The planning of the ventilation system must be carried out at the stage of development of the design project of the bath room

Basically, the functioning of the ventilation of the bath depends on two factors:

the dimensions of the ventilation openings - both supply and exhaust - which are determined by the volume of the room, whether it is a dressing room, a washing room, a steam room or a rest room;
position of ventilation holes.

Vent sizes

The dimensions of the ventilation openings depend on the volume of a particular room: dressing room, steam room, washing room or rest room. It is very important both to accurately calculate the size of these openings, and to ensure that it can be changed. To adjust the gaps in the openings, doors-latches and gratings are installed.

Air vent with slider for adjusting the amount of fresh air inflow

It should be noted that with large ventilation windows it will be difficult to heat the room to the correct temperature. There will either be a danger of a constant waste of fuel and electricity, or difficulties in adjusting the cross section of the ventilation ducts, that is, the distance at which each opening will need to be opened with one's own hands.

Advice! The area of the ventilation opening is determined at the rate of 24 cm² per 1 m³ of the volume of the ventilated room. For a good draft of fresh air from the outside, the exhaust opening must be larger than the inlet.

If the area of the ventilation openings is insufficient, the temperature, air humidity and concentration of carbon monoxide in the room can rise to critical values.

The optimal size of the ventilation opening is calculated at the rate of 24 sq. cm per 1 cubic meter of room volume

The position of the ventilation openings

The action of any ventilation system is based on the replacement of masses of heated air set in motion under the pressure of air coming from outside - colder and heavier. It is important to be able to regulate the direction of the heat flow coming from the stove installed in the bath. The ventilation in the steam room is often equipped with not one inlet, but two for this very reason. To localize heat flows, it is enough to create a gap of a certain width in one or both of them with the help of valves.

Scheme of placement inside the steam room of ventilation openings for the inflow of fresh and removal of polluted air

Ventilation in the Russian bath

The quality of the ventilation system of the bath, designed and assembled by oneself, is laid down at the project stage.

The air currents circulating in the rooms will have different temperatures, but the discomfort from this should be felt as little as possible.

Advice! Comfort in the bath depends not only on the absence of sudden temperature changes "horizontally", that is, when moving from one room to another: from the rest room to the dressing room or from the steam room to the washing room. A soft movement of air masses vertically is necessary: the air temperature near the floor should not be much lower than the temperature at the level of an average human height.

The microclimate in the bath directly depends on the number of ventilation holes, their size and location.

The uniformity of intake, mixing and removal of air masses depends on the number of supply and exhaust openings, their size, location relative to each other and heating devices, as well as the equipment of additional control devices.

The main schemes of the ventilation device in the bath

Any sauna ventilation scheme is designed with one goal in mind - maintaining the temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the steam room. The premises of the bath, and especially the steam room, are exposed to water and steam, so they need periodic ventilation and drying. But airing and drying will be ineffective if proper ventilation is not organized in the bath. Proper and constant ventilation of the steam bath significantly reduces the effects of wood absorbing moisture.

The main task of the ventilation of the bath is to maintain the temperature, humidity and freshness of the air in the steam room.

Bath floor ventilation

Air exchange in bath rooms is facilitated by a ventilated floor.

A wooden floor with constant contact with water loses its usefulness after 5 years. Requirements for ventilation through the floor:

to create a flow, make small vents in the foundation of the bath;
lay the floor, leaving gaps between the boards up to 1 cm;
lay inlet openings in parallel walls (not forgetting to protect them with gratings from rodents);
in order for the stove to work as an additional hood, lay the finishing floor above the level of the blower;
after using the bath, leave the doors open until the floor in the room is dry.

Scheme of arrangement of the ventilation system in the sauna

Ventilation in the dressing room of the bath

With your own hands, in the presence of photo and video instructions, ventilation in the rest room of the bath and in the dressing room is the easiest to do, since they do not have direct contact with water. A natural or combined type of ventilation is used, when fresh air enters through the supply duct and is removed by a fan through the exhaust duct of the steam room, vestibule or bathroom. It is also possible to install ventilators, for which you will need a direct outlet to the street and a power supply connection.

In the dressing room, you can equip a natural or combined type of ventilation

Ventilation in the washing bath

For air exchange in the washing room, a forced ventilation system is often made, which is driven by an electric motor. Air flows lead towards the vestibule. The supply and exhaust channels are made of the same section, the input of the first is set above the ground level (by 2 m), and the output of the second is above the roof.

Ventilation in the steam room

The requirements for the microclimate of the steam room are special. It should warm up quickly, it should maintain an optimal level of humidity and be free from drafts. Therefore, for the steam room, the correct position and dimensions of the supply and exhaust channels, which are laid during construction, are relevant. To regulate the inflow and outflow of air, valves in the vents are sufficient, but with a large volume of the room, a supply or exhaust fan may be needed.

Scheme of arrangement of ventilation in the steam room

The above general principles for designing ventilation in a bath, videos and photos attached to instructions from network or other resources should help those who want to build a bath with their own hands to bring this desire to a concrete embodiment.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath: how to do it right

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath - why do you need ventilation in the bath, how to make ventilation in the bath yourself, device principles, diagrams, instructions, photos, videos.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath

In the process of arranging the bath, special attention should be paid to the organization of high-quality ventilation. Without proper air exchange, the steam room simply cannot be used normally. If desired, all work on the installation of the necessary systems can be done by hand. It is enough just to figure out the order of laying and connecting the main units and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Why do you need ventilation in the bath?

Why do you need ventilation in the bath

Bath ventilation is very important. To avoid lengthy and not very interesting explanations, you can consider everything with a specific example.

The visitor to the bath stays in a room filled with a large amount of hot steam. The person inhales this vapor. We know that humans breathe in oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide. In the absence of sufficient air exchange, after a while a person will simply burn out.

That is why the ventilation in the bath should be as efficient as possible and made in full accordance with the technology. There are several types of ventilation systems. Explore the features of each option and choose the method that best suits your case.

Steam room ventilation

Ventilation systems are installed to solve two main tasks, namely:

ensuring the supply of clean air to the bath;
removal of exhaust air from the steam room.

Additionally, ventilation provides faster and better drying of the steam room. It is necessary to study the features of existing ventilation systems and understand the order of their installation in order to obtain the most efficient and high-quality air exchange.

It is important that during the operation of the ventilation system the temperature regime characteristic of the bath is not disturbed. Air exchange should be organized in such a way that there are no disturbances in the distribution of temperature flows in the bath. Cool air in the steam room can only be near the floor. And the higher the ceiling, the higher the air temperature should be.

Ventilation should not remove clean air from the bath. A properly equipped system supplies fresh air to the room and removes the exhaust air. Errors in the installation of the system will lead to extremely adverse consequences for both the bath and its visitors.

Mold damage to wood

The main types of ventilation systems

There are several types of air exchange systems suitable for use in a bath, namely:

natural ventilation. The principle of operation of such a system is based on the use of the pressure difference inside the bath and on the street. The simplest and most inefficient option;

Exhaust fan from the steam room

Exhaust air is removed from the bath through a special ventilation duct. The air exchange installation technology requires that the duct be installed diagonally to the inlet through which fresh air enters the bath.

Take care of the ventilation device in all areas of the bath, and not just in the steam room. The dressing room, rest room and other rooms of the bath should also be well ventilated.

What you need to know about floor ventilation?

Quite often, the owners of the baths forget that the floor of the steam room must also be well ventilated. Such forgetfulness leads to a very rapid deterioration of the structural elements of the floor and, in general, a deterioration in the characteristics of the bath.

Floors are constantly in contact with water. Without properly organized air exchange, the floor will collapse very quickly, and the floor covering will have to be changed after 2-3 years.

You need to think about floor ventilation even at the stage of bath construction, because. in an already finished room, it will be much more difficult to create high-quality air exchange.

First step. Make small vents in opposite walls of the basement. It is best to provide for these vents at the stage of construction of the concrete base of the bath. Creating any holes in an already finished structure will lead to some decrease in the strength of the building.

Ventilation in the steam room

Second phase. Make one ventilation hole in opposite walls of the serviced room. Through them, clean air will flow into the room. Holes must be through. Ready channels are recommended to be closed with special ventilation grilles. Such protection will not allow all sorts of rodents and other pests to enter the bath.

Ventilation in the bath

Third stage. When building a furnace, make sure that its blower is slightly below the level of the finished floor. Thanks to this placement, the oven will also start working in the hood mode.

Fourth stage. Lay floor boards. When laying them, you need to leave gaps about 7-10 mm wide. Through these cracks, water can flow down. If the liquid lingers on the floor every time, the boards will rot very quickly.

Quite often, floor ventilation is arranged “according to Bast”. According to this technology, fresh air comes from under the stove, and exhaust oxygen is removed through a hole under the ceiling.

In accordance with the requirements of fire safety, a metal sheet must lie near the sauna stove. It is near this sheet that a hole is created to supply fresh air to the bath.

For the device of such air exchange, a special exhaust duct is required. You can buy a box ready-made or assemble it yourself from boards. The inner surface of the exhaust box must be covered with foil. The size of the box should be approximately 15-20% larger than the diameter of the chimney.

Ventilation "according to Bast" is the best option for those cases when the stove is located directly in the steam room. In such a situation, ventilation ducts can be equipped even directly in a brick podium.

Pay attention to the installation location of the sauna stove. If the stove is located directly in the steam room, then natural air exchange is present initially. You just don’t need to rely solely on it - such ventilation only works when the stove is running.

The most optimal option for installing ventilation is the arrangement of air exchange channels on opposite walls of the bath. They must be at different heights.

It is not recommended to place the ventilation holes too high. Although in most other cases it is recommended to make an exhaust hole directly under the ceiling, slightly different rules apply in baths. If you place the hood directly under the ceiling, hot air will leave the room very quickly.

For baths, the optimal height for placing ventilation holes is a level equal to 1-1.5 m.

Bath ventilation installation guide

There are several simple ways to organize effective air exchange in the bath. Study each of them and choose the best one for your steam room.

First way. Create an opening for fresh air. It should be behind the stove, about half a meter from the floor. Make a hole for exhaust air from the side opposite to the inlet, at a height of about 30 cm from the floor level. Install a fan in the outlet.

Create an opening for fresh air

The lower you place the exhaust duct, the more intense the air exchange will be.

However, there is no need to be too zealous either. Try to make holes at the recommended height, as such values are the most optimal. Openings are recommended to be closed with ventilation grilles.

The second way. With this air exchange, both vents will be on the same wall. Work will be carried out with a wall parallel to the stove. The inlet duct is created at a level of about 30 cm from the floor, the exhaust duct is at the same distance from the ceiling of the bath. The exhaust opening is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.

The third way. Make a hole behind the sauna stove for air to enter. Position the intake duct about 20 cm from the floor surface. The exhaust channel is made at approximately the same height, but in the opposite wall. The exhaust opening is equipped with a fan. Close open channels with ventilation grilles.

Fourth way. This air exchange option is great for baths, the flooring of which is laid with slots to drain water. Make an inlet behind the stove unit at a distance of about 30 cm from the floor surface. An exhaust hole is not made in the case of such ventilation - the exhaust air will leave the bath through the cracks in the floor covering, and only after that it will be discharged to the street through a common ventilation pipe.

Ventilated floors in the bath

Fifth way. Such ventilation is ideal for baths with a constantly working furnace unit. Install the inlet channel opposite the stove, stepping back about 30 cm from the floor. The function of the hood will be performed by the oven.

Thus, the procedure for arranging ventilation is practically the same in all the considered methods. Each of them involves the creation of one or two holes, only the place and height of their placement change.

You can also make the holes yourself. Brick walls are easily traversed with a puncher, and log walls with any tool suitable for this, for example, a wood drill. It is recommended to put plastic pipes into the finished holes. Don't forget about protective ventilation grilles. In the future, you are unlikely to be happy with uninvited guests in the form of rodents.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath - step by step instructions!

Find out in what order the ventilation in the bath is connected with your own hands. A detailed guide describing all the stages of work. Photo + video.

It is necessary to speak about the ventilation of the bath separately, and it is necessary to prepare for the creation of proper air circulation inside in advance. A change of oxygen is needed like a fish needs water, if compared in these allegories, and the general well-being of the bather and the value of the process itself depend on how well the ventilation system is built.

The circulation of fresh air provides an influx of new energy in the bath, everyone inside will feel better, and the smell of sweat will not be “heard”. Therefore, there is simply no doubt about the need to create at least natural ventilation.

What is bath ventilation?

Immediately you need to remove the question of the need for forced air ventilation. For these purposes, expensive equipment is usually used to force air into the room. But their use is not always justified, especially in small baths. Firstly, not everyone will be able to mount this type of ventilation, and secondly, they are not needed in a small country bath. They are used in saunas or in the construction of brick, multi-storey baths, when natural ventilation is simply not enough to freshen the air. Tunnels for air lines are laid in advance, and after construction is completed, related equipment is connected.

In a small country bath, even if made of brick, natural ventilation is quite enough, but only built according to the rules. Things are easier in wooden baths. For example, in a frame building or a log bath, fresh air, albeit in small quantities, will flow through the interventional connections. Yes, and wood is a natural material and it “breathes” by passing oxygen through itself. In general, when building a small bath, natural ventilation is created by itself. But it still needs a little tweaking to help the oxygen change a little.

How to carry out additional air access?

As remembering elements of ventilation, natural mechanisms act: windows and doors. In some cases, it is enough to slightly open them to ventilate the room. But this is not always convenient, and it is better to act more rationally, providing a constant, regulated air supply. To do this, special holes (vents) with floating valves are made in the walls. They are located in the lower or upper part near the stove in the steam room.

But by no means in the middle. With air circulation, and a constant change of steam from hot to cold, it tends to move from the bottom up, where it will go outside through organized ventilation. In addition, they are equipped with valves so that, if necessary, it is possible to completely open the window for ventilation or regulate the air change by slightly closing the hole.

But this is an incomplete system. On the opposite wall, they make a hood. This is a hole that must be kept open at all times. In size, it is slightly smaller than the air. The height of the exhaust opening is approximately 30–40 cm from the floor. The exit of this window can be made into the washing compartment so that it warms up faster.

Of course, a large number of holes do not fit into the design in a very original way, and usually, the door to the steam room works behind the hood. That is, one vent is also made on the wall, and instead of an exhaust hole, the construction of the worker functions. Initially, the door to the steam room is made 5–10 cm smaller so that there is an outlet for air from below. Thus, the outflow of hot steam will be ensured, the washing room will warm up and the overall design of the steam room will not be disturbed. This is the simplest of the options for natural air ventilation, working according to the law of physics.

There is a small correction in this scheme. The larger the steam room, the larger the diameter you need to make the air. To calculate the size, there are certain norms: when subtracting the total area, approximately 20–25 cm / 2 of the ventilation area is taken for each cubic meter. Knowing these norms, it will not be difficult to calculate the dimensions of the air. It is recommended to renew the air in the steam room 5-7 times in one hour or as needed if you feel heavy breathing.

Ventilation of the floor of the washing compartment

Here you can renew the air by opening a window, and the floor requires special ventilation, due to the constant draining of water through it. This process, without natural ventilation, will cause the wood to rot quickly or the concrete to separate. To reduce negative factors, at the floor level, small vents are also made. Removal is carried out by opening a window, a window or, if a remote furnace is installed, the air will be moved by the operation of the ventilation pipe. You can consider the option of installing a riser from an asbestos-cement pipe. She is taken out through the walls, over the roof of the bathhouse.

Common mistakes in ventilation design

With the basic concepts of natural ventilation is clear. There is nothing difficult in the organization, it remains to talk about what cannot be done in this work.

Many, without fully understanding the process of creating an extract, make a lot of stupid mistakes. For example, it is impossible to place the supply and exhaust openings on the same level in the steam room. You will get a vicious circle for hot air, and the floor will be constantly cool. Uninformed people begin to sin that the owner did the wrong floor in the bathhouse and some believe this, and begin to look for the cause, disassembling the coatings and laying additional materials for insulation. And the problem in the end lies only in the wrong arrangement of the products.

More about location. Some confuse fume hood hole with inlet. And when creating ventilation, placing the first under the ceiling, and the second below. Of course, this will work, but it will take more time to warm up the steam room. If such an arrangement is made, then the valves should be on both windows.

That's all the tricks. Be attentive to the creation of natural ventilation, and you will have light steam.

Ventilation in the bath is a mandatory structural element. Without full-fledged air exchange and fresh air supply, even the highest quality wooden building can completely become unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, bathers will have to enjoy such “charms” as dampness, unpleasant smell, lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of the ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. This is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike the forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths, it is generally created "by itself" - only due to the appropriate design of the steam room.

How is the natural ventilation system arranged?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection that occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, the heated air in the room always rises, and the cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in the bath is to ensure the flow of fresh air (cold) and displace the exhaust (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the inlet is usually located below the exhaust. Then the warm air, rising up, goes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (reduced pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually, it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of the exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

As extracts in a bath with natural ventilation, air vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used. The air flow is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in chopped baths), ajar doors, ventilation openings. Both supply and exhaust openings (air vents, vents) are provided with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps to control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Volley ventilation - airing

Volley ventilation is common in small Russian baths. This is the usual ventilation, which is performed either after bathing procedures, or between entering the steam room. Volley ventilation contributes to a quick change of air, drying the surfaces of the steam room.

With burst ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is performed by a door and a window leaf located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after soaring (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure drop is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of salvo ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but at the same time not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove with a chimney can be the driving force behind ventilation. When the fuel is burned, the exhaust air is drawn into the furnace blower and exits through the chimney. In order for fresh air to flow in, a gap of about 5-10 mm is made at the bottom of the door. Or loosely close it during procedures. In log cabins, when a fire is burning in a stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation through the outflow of air through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (e.g. in black-baths or short-duration ovens), no air change will be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the soaring (ideally - 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust hole is usually arranged under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It has dimensions of 15-20 cm, it is square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

It is undesirable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. It is highly likely that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This eliminates the full circulation of air, but leads to the formation of a draft.
The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should match the dimensions of the inlet. Or be more. If the dimensions of the hood deviate downwards, new clean air will not enter the bath.
If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the dimensions of the hood make it larger than the supply vent. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 inlet.

For the influx of clean air in the steam room, an inlet is equipped, as a rule, 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is desirable - next to the stove, so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the soaring zone already warm. The inlet is closed with a ventilation grill so that the air is drawn into the room in separate streams, and not in a continuous stream.

Step by step installation guide

The classic workflow is:

In the walls of the bath, two holes are made with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm. It is advisable to form ducts even at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In chopped baths, it is better to use wooden boxes knocked together from boards.
A ventilation grill is placed on the inlet, and a valve on the exhaust. If one of the holes goes outside, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

simple device and easy installation;
low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
Efficiency in work - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not in need of repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

the dependence of the ventilation force on the temperature difference in the steam room and on the street;
in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings lowers the temperature in the steam room, drafts may occur;
smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bath, standing on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If there are no pools and large washing facilities inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If, for some reason, natural ventilation cannot cope with the functions assigned to it, you can convert it into mechanical ventilation at any time - just put fans on the holes!

The presence of ventilation is a prerequisite for a comfortable presence in the bath. For the intake of fresh air and the output of the exhaust, ordinary ventilation is most often performed - they open the windows, doors, and vents. Such ventilation is called natural. Unfortunately, it is not always effective. For example, in large baths with a washing compartment (pool), forced ventilation is more effective in order to eliminate unpleasant odors, quickly dry surfaces and create an optimal microclimate.

3 Ways to organize and ready-made schemes
- 3.1 Scheme #1. Exhaust ventilation
- 3.2 Scheme #2. Forced ventilation
- 3.3 Scheme #3. Supply and exhaust ventilation
4 Some mounting features

The principle of operation of such a system

Any ventilation system consists of at least two holes. One of them is inlet, the other is exhaust. Fresh cold air, entering the steam room through the inlet, mixes with warm "local" air. The heat flow is distributed throughout the room. At the same time, the exhaust air is repelled to the exhaust opening and removed through it to the street or to other rooms of the bath.

If there are not enough natural reasons for the circulation of air currents, a forced ventilation system is arranged. Its essence is that fans are installed on one or both ventilation openings - supply or exhaust. They provide forced air movement. The supply fan draws in fresh air from the outside with its blades, and the exhaust fan, on the contrary, pushes the exhaust air out.

Often, gratings (slotted, louvered) or plugs are placed on the ventilation ducts, with the help of which they change the size of the hole and the intensity of air circulation.

If the supply opening is less open than the exhaust opening, then ventilation is enhanced. If the air flow speed reaches 0.3 m/s, there is a feeling of draft. This cannot be allowed. Ideally, the air movement should be smooth, slow, which means that the vents should open approximately the same.

Types of forced ventilation

There are the following types of forced ventilation (depending on the purpose of the fans):

exhaust;
supply;
supply and exhaust.

Let's talk in more detail about each.

Exhaust ventilation

In the design of exhaust ventilation there is a fan-exhaust. It is installed on the exhaust outlet of the ventilation system. There is also a supply hole in this type of system. Usually these are air ducts with ventilation grilles, windows with plugs, a gap under the door, etc. Exhaust ventilation reduces the air pressure in the steam room (creates a vacuum), which is compensated by the influx of fresh outside air.

Exhaust ventilation effectively removes harmful gases, unpleasant odors, and excess moisture. This is especially true in showers, washing rooms, rooms with a pool, bathrooms of a bath.

The exhaust ventilation device is simple. Usually it includes a fan and a ventilation duct. Sometimes, when a powerful hood is used, the system is supplemented with a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation almost completely copies the exhaust system. But the fan is not installed to remove the used, but to supply fresh outdoor air.

When the supply system is operating, the pressure in the room increases, respectively, the exhaust air is drawn out through the exhaust ducts, doors, vents, gaps in the floor, ceiling, and walls.

Supply fans work to take in cool (and in winter - cold!) street air. To prevent this from reducing the temperature in the steam room, the ventilation system is equipped with special air heaters. Filters are used to purify the supply air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

This is a combined system consisting of a forced air supply and a mechanical exhaust. In addition to fans, it can be equipped with recuperators, filters, silencers. It is possible to make the supply and exhaust ventilation fully mechanical by equipping it with an automatic control unit.

The design of supply and exhaust ventilation is the most complex. It is very important at the stage of its design to calculate the air exchange in the bath room. The amount of displaced air must be equal to the amount of supply air. This is ideal. But sometimes this balance is deliberately violated in order to create air flows of the desired direction. For example, if there is a bathroom in the bathhouse, then in order to prevent unpleasant odors from entering other rooms, it is artificially created underpressure. By installing a hood with high power. After that, the air from the room with a higher pressure will be independently directed to the zone of low pressure. That is, go to the bathroom, and not to the steam room, showers, sinks.

Organization methods and ready-made schemes

Consider several ready-made schemes for performing forced ventilation.

Scheme #1. Exhaust ventilation

Behind the furnace, 0.3 m from the floor, a supply air vent is equipped. The exhaust fan is equipped on the opposite wall, a little higher - 0.4-0.5 m from the floor. Fresh air, getting into the steam room through the inlet, passes through the stove, warms up and rises to the ceiling. Gradually cooling down, it goes down and is drawn in by the exhaust fan. This forced ventilation scheme is quite popular due to the simplicity of the device and the rapid change in air flow.

Scheme #2. Forced ventilation

In a large steam room for a quick change of air, it is advisable to equip forced ventilation. For better circulation, air flows are directed not from the bottom up, as with natural ventilation, but from the top down. An inlet with a fan is equipped behind the furnace, 0.5 m above its level. The exhaust hole is placed in the lower part of the opposite wall, at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the floor.

Supply ventilation according to this scheme works as follows. With the help of a fan, cold air is forced into the steam room through the inlet. Once in the range of the furnace, it quickly warms up and rises to the ceiling. Cooler streams are forced down and out through the exhaust port.

Scheme #3. Supply and exhaust ventilation

This scheme is intended for ventilation equipment in the bath steam room and shower room. A supply air vent with a fan is placed above the stove. The minimum distance from the heater is 50 cm. An exhaust hole (without a fan) is made on the adjacent wall next to the floor, away from the stove. In this case, the diameter of the exhaust duct should be 2 times larger than the diameter of the supply duct.

Another exhaust outlet with a fan is located in the shower room adjacent to the steam room, under the ceiling. Air enters the shower room from the steam room through a gap under the door.

Some mounting features

After choosing a ventilation scheme, it's time to move on to its installation. To do this, you will need the following devices and materials:

Fan. Heat-resistant, moisture-resistant fans with the ability to control the speed are suitable for the bath. According to the installation method, they are channel or radial. Channel pipes are placed directly in the duct, and radial ones - at its outlet.
Ventilation box. Can be solid - made of plastic or galvanized steel. Or flexible, made in the form of a corrugated pipe on a metal frame.
Ventilation grates. Production material - according to your preference.

The ventilation system is mounted according to the following plan:

According to the chosen scheme, holes are made in the walls (top and bottom). It is desirable that they be planned at the stage of building a bath.
Ventilation boxes are installed in the holes.
Mount (in a box or outside the hole) a fan - exhaust or supply.
Connect the fan to the electricity network. The connection scheme will depend on the desired way to turn on the fan. The fan can be turned on in the following ways: simultaneously with lighting, by pressing a separate switch, through a motion sensor. Shutdown can also be done in different ways. For example, either when the light is turned off, or after a scheduled time (when using a timer).
Ventilation grilles are placed on the ventilation openings.

Here is an example of a fan installation:

Competent installation of forced ventilation will help you organize active air exchange in the bath rooms. As a result, you will get rid of unpleasant odors in washing and bathrooms, provide “easy breathing” in the steam room, and protect yourself from carbon monoxide damage.

Natural ventilation in the bath: device options, pros and cons

Natural ventilation in a Russian bath is as necessary as air is for a fish. Imagine that you are sitting in a steam room, putting water on the stove, and it seems to be getting better, your body burns, you feel a pleasant tingling, and it becomes more and more difficult to breathe. It seems that you still want to warm up, but the body without oxygen cannot cope with such loads.

Today there are many proposals for the installation of forced ventilation.

But this is superfluous for a small bath, where natural ventilation can also cope with this task. It should be noted that this is not only the creation of coziness and comfort for staying in the bath, but also additional support for the finish. After all, the air entering from the outside dries the inner lining of the walls in the bath, preserving the structure and appearance, protecting it from the manifestation of putrefactive deposits and unpleasant odors. According to these factors, there is simply no alternative to natural ventilation in the bath.

Principles of operation of natural ventilation

During installation, all possible plans for the passage of inlets and the gradual movement of air are worked out, the access of which should not affect the internal microclimate in the bath room. Not only temperature, but also air pressure should be normal.

The correct location and operation of ventilation will allow you to maintain the interior decoration in a tidy condition for as long as possible. The execution process itself is simple, the main thing is to delve into it and rationally arrange all the conductive pipes and air ducts inside the wall blocks and bring them inside the room, so that air rarefaction is not created. Unlike forced ventilation in the bath, you do not need to purchase any expensive systems and mechanisms. Everything is done literally from an improvised tool.

Natural ventilation will work when there is a temperature difference inside the bath and outside. That is, when warming up the interior. According to the law of physics, which raises warm air to the ceiling, the task of natural ventilation is to displace the latter into the street and bring in fresh air from there. According to this, the outlet openings are located as high as possible. When heated, the air itself will find the supply valve and rush out. At the same time, a discharged pressure is created inside the room, due to which fresh air takes the place of hot air.

pair. Then it gradually warms up and comes out again. A kind of circulation of hot and cold air. Thanks to this convection, a continuous process of natural air ventilation is created.

Contribute to the injection, the accompanying elements of the bath, which are mandatory structures. These are window vents, ducts in the underground. A significant role in ventilation is played by a chimney in the wall. In chopped buildings, the crowns of logs promote circulation; in addition, windows and vents can be slightly opened for a while to increase the air flow. All openings equipped with closing-opening mechanisms are equipped with grilles and shutters that control the opening level in order to regulate the air flow.

Three device options

Each of the types is good in its own way and applicable in certain conditions. All of them differ in functionality and have some limitations in operation.

salvo ventilation

It is carried out by temporarily opening door and window openings, vents or vents. This method is common in Russian baths. When it is organized, there is a one-time and rapid change of air in the room. In tandem, an open door and a window on the opposite wall usually work simultaneously. It is used as an option for changing the air between bath procedures. Volley ventilation, the only inexpensive option for airing baths made of timber or other types of wood. After washing, they usually leave everything open to dry the interior.

Organization of the chimney outflow

Here, the role of the savior of the interior space is taken over by the stove-heater. During the combustion process, hot air rising to the ceiling is drawn into the blower and vented out through the chimney. Mode change is made due to the gap left in all doors. In order not to cool the room, this distance should not exceed 10 cm. Also, you can leave the door slightly open if you need to let in more fresh air.

In log structures, furnace ventilation is created by slots in the crowns. Such a system will work only when the furnace is operating, when the fuel is burning. This method is not very successful, therefore, if necessary, urgently ventilate the room, a salvo option is used.

Ventilation through vents

The best option, carried out by removing air ducts through the foundation of the bath or the basement level. For one wash in an hour and a half, the air is renewed at least 6 times. With the correct planning of ventilation through the vents, washing will be as comfortable as possible. There is no need to open the doors to create a more favorable atmosphere, and the bather will be busy only with his own business.

But here you need the right layout and choice of materials. Exhaust openings are made of a plastic pipe with a diameter of not more than 20 cm. The shapes are not regulated, it can be an oval or a square. To regulate the air flow through them, it is necessary to mount sliding dampers. When washing them

open halfway, and for ventilation after the procedures, you can open completely.

Advantages of supply structures

Each of the options presented has its pros and cons, and the owner has the right to independently choose which one he likes, guided by the type of structure and the presence or absence of window structures in the bath. But if we generalize natural ventilation, then the following points can be distinguished as positive qualities:

the simplest options in terms of arrangement on their own;
no need to purchase additional devices and lay electrical wiring to connect fans;
durability due to the absence of mechanical elements.

It is impossible not to mention the cons

Not a single mechanism is immune from these factors, and the first thing that can be distinguished is the natural factor. The fact is that it is possible to ensure a comfortable temperature difference only with a strong ratio of the air level inside and outside. Simply put, in hot weather, until the air in the steam room warms up to the maximum level, natural circulation simply will not be felt.

In the autumn-winter period, with a relative temperature difference, even if the sauna stove is not working, there will be cold air inside the room and it will take more time to warm up the washing compartment. We'll have to close the vents for a while. In addition, with natural circulation, you are not immune from odors coming from outside.

Significant disadvantages, but given that practically no funds are spent on the organization of ventilation, you can close your eyes on them and regulate air flows by opening and closing dampers. And if you do not plan to make a pool, then overpaying for the installation of a forced system is simply not advisable.

Proper ventilation of the bath is the key to a healthy beneficial procedure

Everyone knows how important it is to maintain optimal parameters of humidity and temperature in the steam room. But in addition to these fundamental characteristics, there is another condition on which our health and the durability of the structure itself depend - thoughtful ventilation of the bath.

It would seem like a paradox, in order to achieve the desired temperature regime, you have to carefully insulate and heat the room, and then take it and voluntarily let cold air from the street into such a protected “warm” zone. How to make sure that the ventilation device in the bath does not spoil its “fragile” microclimate?

Let's look into all the nuances of this issue together and find out the exact "recipe" for proper air exchange in the steam room. But before that, we prepared for readers a “vaccination against carelessness” - a story about what will happen if the ventilation of the steam room in the bath is not properly adjusted.

How much will ventilation defects cost the owner of the bath?

Skeptics may object, they say, our ancestors built durable "sweating huts" and easily managed without modern ventilation subtleties. Indeed, the ventilation in the Russian bath worked due to the free fastening of the lower rims of logs, through which fresh air entered the room. The outflow of the working was carried out through a window, ajar doors (for a firebox in a black way) or through a chimney with a constantly working furnace (for a firebox in a white way).

But modern buildings are aimed at the rational use of energy resources and are more complex in their design, so their "air service" should be appropriate. What awaits a bath with a negligent attitude to its timely and constant "wind blowing"?

RAPID WEAR OF THE BATH

Heat, steam and a sharp temperature drop are factors that have a truly destructive power that can undermine the "health" of any building material. To mitigate this aggression, the construction requires the adoption of maximum protective measures, to the rank of which the bath ventilation system belongs.

Wood is the main building material for finishing the steam room; in such harsh operating conditions, it can last no more than 20 years. But even this average durability indicator is not so easy to achieve without intensive air exchange in the premises. With an insufficient level of fresh air inflow, after 5-6 years of operation of the bath, its owner will be forced to replace the entire lining of the steam room. And this is the floor, panels, ceiling, and, quite possibly, their warm “puff” will be damaged during dismantling. As a result of repair work, the purse of the owner of the bath will “lose weight” by a substantial amount.

UNPLEASANT SMELL IN THE BATH

Due to the lack of fresh air in the steam room, the wooden paneling will begin to “age” intensively and, even before retirement, will please you with a sharp and unpleasant smell. "Aroma" will capture the room so tightly that it will become the hallmark of your bath. You will not be able to get rid of it, because any aggressive chemistry in this building is strictly prohibited.

Do not think that only the tree is waiting for such a sad fate. Any building material during the period of "decay" will not please the owner of the building with a pleasant smell. Everyone knows the no less sugary "aroma" of dampness and mustiness, which "lives" in brick buildings.

HARMFUL AIR IN THE BATH

Heat and steam cause intense perspiration in humans. Part of the decay products evaporates and complements the atmosphere of the room. It turns out that over time, the air in the steam room will simply be poisoned by substances that we are so eager to get rid of with the help of this medical procedure (slags, toxins). Our lungs, instead of a healing air "portion", will receive a dirty "burda". Naturally, there can be no talk of any healing effect from relaxing in a stuffy steam room. Moreover, the harmful “cocktail” will be enhanced by fungus and mold spores, which will inevitably appear on the walls, ceiling and floor of a room deprived of proper air exchange.

How is the natural ventilation system arranged?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection that occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Volley ventilation - airing

The role of salvo ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but at the same time not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

A few more rules:

It is undesirable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. It is highly likely that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This eliminates the full circulation of air, but leads to the formation of a draft.
The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should match the dimensions of the inlet. Or be more. If the dimensions of the hood deviate downwards, new clean air will not enter the bath.
If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the dimensions of the hood make it larger than the supply vent. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 inlet.

Step by step installation guide

The classic workflow is:

In the walls of the bath, two holes are made with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm. It is advisable to form ducts even at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In chopped baths, it is better to use wooden boxes knocked together from boards.
A ventilation grill is placed on the inlet, and a valve on the exhaust. If one of the holes goes outside, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

simple device and easy installation;
low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
Efficiency in work - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not in need of repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

the dependence of the ventilation force on the temperature difference in the steam room and on the street;
in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings lowers the temperature in the steam room, drafts may occur;
smells from the street.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath - scheme

A well-equipped ventilation system, other things being equal, guarantees, firstly, a long service life of building and finishing materials involved in the arrangement of the serviced premises, and secondly, the comfort and safety of visiting the latter for the user. Particularly relevant is the issue of arranging full and sufficiently effective ventilation in the bath, due to the characteristic temperature and humidity conditions and additional requirements for such buildings.

General requirements for ventilation in the bath

Video - Requirements for ventilation in the bath

The choice of the optimal type of ventilation system for servicing a bath is a topic for many hours of discussion. For example, there is natural ventilation. The cost of money, time and effort for its arrangement is minimal - the work literally comes down to drilling holes in the walls, installing boxes / pipes and valves / gratings.

Ventilation damper and grille

Ventilation grilles for baths and saunas

However, it is impossible to use natural ventilation to serve all the premises of the bath. Of course, it would be possible to save money, but the disadvantage of such a solution will become obvious with the arrival of the first winter: along with the influx of fresh air from the street, cold will come in, and everyone knows the combination of frosty air with humidity - everything around will simply freeze. Therefore, natural ventilation in some rooms must be combined with other existing options in other rooms of the bath.

If the bath is equipped with a washing room or even a private pool, natural ventilation will definitely not cope with the maintenance of such premises - you will have to equip an exhaust system. And in general, the presence of a forced inflow / outflow of fresh air will be useful for both visitors to the bathhouse and its premises. Recommendations regarding the optimal composition of the air exchange system are given in the table.

Table. The choice of ventilation system for different rooms


Steam room, dressing room or rest room		Under aeration it is necessary to understand the organized natural air exchange. The option is most optimally suited for use in a bathhouse: air is supplied from the bottom of the stove (for other rooms - 25-30 cm above the floor), exhaust air is removed through an opening in the upper part of the room. The work of air exchange is based on elementary physical laws: cold air from the street displaces warm air masses, which have less weight, up the room. Aeration is ideal for use in rooms with high heat dissipation rates. The presence of additional moisture contributes to an even more pronounced increase in the efficiency of the system.
Wash room, bathroom, pool room		The system is equipped with a fan and, if necessary, cleaning filters. Mechanical exhaust ventilation is ideal for use in the washroom, pool room and other damp and high traffic areas of the bath. A mechanical extractor effectively removes unpleasant odors and excess moisture, which makes the air in the serviced room safe and clean. It is impossible to use only exhaust ventilation - air rarefaction is formed. To compensate for the rarefaction, air is supplied from the street or other rooms. Along with this, the presence of forced ventilation will eliminate the likelihood of drafts. The supply ventilation system can be either natural or mechanical. In combination with mechanical exhaust ventilation, it is more expedient to use a mechanical supply system, because. the potential for natural inflow may ultimately be insufficient to compensate for the resulting rarefaction. At the heart of mechanical supply ventilation is a blower fan. Additionally, it can be equipped with an air heater, which will eliminate the inconvenience and solve the problems of ventilation of the serviced premises during the cold season. Additionally, the supplied air can be humidified or purified using appropriate devices. The mechanical system is more complex in arrangement compared to its analog, which works according to the laws of physics: in addition to fans and air ducts, the system may include additional equipment and devices (diffusers, air distribution grilles, automation equipment, silencers, etc.). This gives an excellent opportunity to arrange an air exchange system that fully meets the wishes of the user.

In vestibules, warehouses and other premises of a similar purpose, a natural hood is made.

Regardless of the type of ventilation system chosen, the bath must have conditions for simple ventilation. Install adjustable windows in all rooms, the location of which allows this.

Video - Types of ventilation systems

Instructions for self-calculation of air exchange

For the calculation, an elementary formula is used:

W (required volume of fresh / exhaust air) \u003d k (coefficient indicating the frequency of air exchange) x V (volume of the serviced room, determined by multiplying the width of the room by the length and height).

That is, first you must calculate the volume of each room and find for it the required indicator of the volume of clean air (in calculations it is customary to denote Wpr, i.e. inflow) and a similar indicator of exhaust air (indicated as Wvt, outflow). In this case, multiplicity factors must be taken into account. The calculated values are rounded up - the last digit in the number must be 0 or 5.

Next, the summation of all Wpr is performed. A similar action is carried out for the found Wvt. The amounts received are compared. If the total value of Wpr exceeds the total indicator Wpr, it is necessary to increase the exhaust volume for rooms with a minimum air exchange value, if vice versa, increase the inflow by the missing value. That is, at the output, the sum of all Wpr should be equal to the total value of the found Wvt.

The results of the calculations will allow you to determine the optimal cross-sections of the installed air ducts and choose the appropriate type of ventilation system. Thus, with the calculation of the volume of premises and other related data, there will be no particular problems. For greater convenience of subsequent processing, enter the found values in a simple table, as in the example presented.

In the given example, the total value of Wpr is less than the sum of all found Wvt by an indicator equal to 110 m3. In order for the balance to be maintained as a result, it is necessary to ensure the flow of clean air in the missing amount. This can only be done in the waiting room. Thus, the value of 55 m3 for the dressing room, given in the table, must be replaced with an indicator of 165 m3. Then the balance will be struck.

Proceed to the calculation of the installed air ducts and the drawing up of the structure of the equipped ventilation system.

The ventilation system is designed in such a way that the air moves through the installed air ducts with the following speed indicators:

≤ 5 m/s in main channels and ≤3 m/s in existing branches - for mechanical ventilation systems;
≤ 1 m/s - for air exchanges operating according to the natural principle;
2 m/s - for natural air exchange directly in the steam room.

When choosing the cross-section of air ducts, consider the above indicators. As for the profile of the box / pipe, this moment is determined by the design features of the air exchange and the bath itself. For example, air ducts with a circular cross section are easier to install than their rectangular counterparts, and it is much easier to select the required connecting fittings for round air ducts.

The relationship between the diameter of the air ducts and other significant indicators is shown in the following tables.

For example, we will work with round ducts. We select the necessary sections according to the corresponding table, focusing, at the same time, on the indicators of the table An example of calculating ventilation.

Estimated air consumption is 165 m3/hour. The air flow at this flow rate should not move faster than 5 m/s. In accordance with the table above for round ducts, we select the section according to the specified data. The tabular value closest to ours is 221 m3/h. Air duct cross section - 125 mm.

Air duct with insulation

Flexible ducts

In the same order, we determine the optimal sections for all branches of the system in the serviced premises, remembering that in them the air flow should move at a speed not exceeding 3 m / s (in vestibules and closets - 1 m / s, in the steam room - 2 m / s). sec):

steam room: calculated Ww is 60 m3 / h, which requires the installation of an air duct with a cross section of 125 mm;
shower room - Ww is 50 m3 / h, air moves at a speed of 3 m / s, a 100 mm air duct is suitable;
toilet - the indicators are similar to the shower room;
pantry, vestibule, etc. - indicators (except for the speed of air movement) are similar to the shower and toilet.

Important! In the shower room (washing room, room with a pool), an increased level of humidity is noted. When determining the cross-section of the duct for this room, it is necessary to make an upward adjustment (in this example, 125 mm).

For greater convenience, enter all the information received in the table. As an example, you can use the template below.

Important note! In the table above, the extract volume exceeds the clean air supply. This happened because the sections were determined by the nearest flow rate, and the diameter of the air duct in the washing room was deliberately increased. In practice, such an approach will only benefit - the margin for outflow and inflow will not be superfluous.

SNiP 2.08.01-89. Residential buildings. Download file

SNiP 2.08.01-89

Sanitary and epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. Sanitary and epidemiological rules and regulations SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00. Download file

SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00

Building codes and regulations of the Russian Federation heating, ventilation and air conditioning heating, ventilation and conditioning SNiP 41-01-2003. Download file

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

The cross-sectional area of the ventilation window is determined in accordance with the volume of the served room: 24 cm2 for every 1 m3.

It remains to figure out only the optimal height of the ventilation holes:

for the influx of fresh air - an average of 25-30 cm above the floor (in the steam room - near the stove);
for the outflow of exhaust air - about 15-20 cm below the ceiling, as a rule, on the wall opposite to the supply air.

Popular bath ventilation schemes

Separate consideration deserves only options for arranging ventilation in the steam room - in the rest of the rooms everything is done according to the standard scheme, for example, like this:

Air exchange in the steam room can be organized in accordance with 4 main schemes presented in the following image.

Scheme "a". The most popular option. The window for air flow is next to the stove, at a distance of about 25-30 cm from the floor. The incoming clean air gradually displaces the exhausted warm upwards to the opposite wall. On it, about 15-25 cm below the ceiling, there is an exhaust hole.

Scheme "b". Both holes are on the same wall. The circuit will only work if an exhaust fan is installed. Fresh air enters through the lower opening, equipped in the wall opposite to the stove. The air will rush in the direction of the stove, and then, covering the space of the steam room with an arc, move to the hood and be discharged outside the bath.

Scheme "in". The option is suitable for steam rooms with a leaking floor. The inlet opening is located as in scheme "a". After warming up in the upper part of the steam room, the air descends to the floor, passes through the gaps in the boardwalk, contributing to more efficient drying of the boards, and then is removed through the exhaust hole, usually equipped in another room. Also, the hood can be carried out through a separate insulated channel.

Scheme "g". Option for baths with a constantly working stove. In this case, the function of the hood is performed by the blower hole of the furnace. The supply window is arranged under the shelf, in the wall opposite to the furnace. The height of the inlet must correspond to the height of the furnace blower. Fresh air rushes to the stove, displacing the air masses heated by it to the ceiling. Cooling down there, the air descends and is removed from the bath through the blower.

In order for the operation of the air exchange system to be as efficient and high-quality as possible, before starting its installation, study and remember a few simple tips.

If your bathhouse has a bathroom or even a kitchen, equip them only with exhaust ventilation - this solution will eliminate the possibility of unpleasant odors spreading to other rooms. Alternatively, you can equip other rooms with forced ventilation, and equip the bathrooms with a natural exhaust - in this case, the air will move towards the bathrooms.

When calculating the performance of fans, it is recommended to reduce the total capacity of the supply units by 5-10% of the total performance of the exhaust units. In this case, the exhaust air will be completely displaced by the incoming air masses, and a 5-10% reserve will compensate for the inflow of air entering through windows, slots, etc., which will help to maintain a balance.

In rooms with only natural ventilation, it is recommended to definitely make opening windows - this will increase the efficiency of fresh air intake and reduce the risk of fungi, mold, rot, etc.

Important! If your bath has a non-standard configuration, the ventilation system project will also be individual. When compiling it, the features of the composition of the premises, their design, design features, etc. should be taken into account.

The main stages of independent arrangement of the ventilation system

Any ventilation system in any room is equipped in approximately the same sequence. Differences are present only in the characteristics of the air vents and their locations, as well as the configuration of the system (mechanical, unlike natural ones, are supplemented by various kinds of devices).

For example, the following arrangement of ventilation elements can be used.

Or its somewhat modified counterpart, shown in the following image.

Recommendations regarding the choice of the location of each opening, the type of air exchange system for different rooms of the bath, as well as the procedure for determining the characteristics of ventilation elements, were discussed earlier.

Along with this, the procedure for arranging ventilation may vary depending on which design option you prefer. There are few solutions available:

independent ventilation in each room. An easier option. Work is limited to the installation of transoms, vents, fans and other necessary elements, if provided for by the project. Fans can be mounted both in windows and in separate channels brought outside through the wall;
centralized system. More difficult option. Requires ventilation ducts. It is used mainly in private homes - in the case of a bath, this option will be too costly and time-consuming;
"hybrid" option. Some rooms are ventilated individually, some are combined into a joint system.

A reasonable option for use in a bath is independent ventilation - the owner can choose the optimal characteristics of fans and other elements for each room, saving money, time and effort on the activities necessary to combine the channels into a single system.

Important! The location of some bath rooms may not allow to equip independent supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, it will not be possible to avoid laying ventilation ducts. Alternatively, the boxes can be placed in the attic, and the ventilation holes can be arranged in the ceiling or connected to the channels equipped in the walls (the option is more complicated if the laying of such channels was not provided for by the project at the construction stage of the bath).

In most cases, the first option is used: ventilation pipes of the required length are led out through openings in the ceilings of the serviced premises and either equipped with their own fan, if necessary (easier to implement for an unprepared user, the procedure is similar to that given in the following table), or connected into a single circuit and connected to a common hood (may require the involvement of specialists).

Remember: the maximum efficiency of the ventilation system is ensured by using as short and straight air ducts as possible - up to 3 m with natural air exchange and up to 6 m with electric fans.

The procedure for arranging an independent ventilation system is given in the following table.

Important! The example considers instructions for arranging a mechanical ventilation system using fans. The order of installation of natural air exchange remains almost the same: only the stages of laying wires and installing fans are excluded.

Table. Arrangement of ventilation

Stage of workExplanations


	The operating procedure remains the same for the supply and exhaust openings. Only the height of their arrangement and location change (possible options were considered earlier), as well as the type of fans used (supply or exhaust). The characteristics of the latter are selected on an individual basis, taking into account the volume of the serviced premises, the required air velocity in the air ducts, the required air exchange rate, etc. - all these moments were consecrated in the theoretical part. We equip the holes in the following order: - we outline the center and contours. We make the markup so that the diameter of the hole as a result slightly (usually a 2-3 mm gap is made) exceeds the diameter of the installed pipe (recommendations for choosing the diameters of the ducts were given earlier); - Using a perforator, make a hole in accordance with the markings. We hold the working tool horizontally, but with a slight downward slope; - carefully take out the cut material (a hammer and a chisel will help us with this), after which we carefully clean the finished hole from dirt and dust.
	The ventilation pipe (ventilation duct housing) is placed in the prepared hole, but before that it (if mechanical / forced ventilation is planned) must be equipped with a fan. Useful recommendation! Initially, buy ready-made kits for arranging ventilation, including, in addition to related accessories, a ventilation duct / pipe and a fan with an appropriately sized case - this way you will avoid difficulties during the assembly phase. The pipe with the fan is placed in the prepared hole, and the remaining gaps are filled with mounting foam.
	The fan is an electrical appliance, therefore, it must be connected to the mains. Let's do this while the mounting foam dries (at least 10-12 hours). The procedure is standard: - the contours of the strobe for the cable are cut out in the wall using a grinder. Excess material is removed using a chipper; - a hole is prepared in the wall for installing the switch box (for example, you can use a puncher). The box is installed (pre-read the instructions specifically for your switch). The switch itself will be mounted after finishing; - the wire is laid in a strobe. We use alabaster to fix the cable; - connect the wire to the switch and fan. We must first study the connection diagram recommended by the fan manufacturer in the attached instructions, because. it may differ for different devices. For example, one of the most commonly used schemes is given.
	It remains only to bring the whole structure into its proper form. To do this, we do the following: - get rid of excess dried mounting foam with a knife; - putty strobes; - we mount adjustable ventilation grilles on both sides of the pipe. For fastening we use self-tapping screws. If provided, we install additional elements at the appropriate stages of work (for example, an air heater, a filter, etc.). Each of these devices is mounted individually - we first clarify these points in the manufacturer's instructions.

Video - Arrangement of ventilation holes

Video - Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath - diagram

State norms for ventilation of premises are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003, the document establishes the minimum frequency of air exchange in rooms, depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential premises, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Download file

SNiP 41–01–2003

For a bath, ventilation tasks become more complicated, it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (fast drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are cases when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before taking procedures by small children, the elderly or large people. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bath cools down on its own. With the help of room ventilation, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits all the time people stay in it.

What are the types of ventilation and the method of their calculation

Ventilation can only exist when there is an inflow of fresh air and an outflow of used air into the room. Often you can find the concept of "supply" or "exhaust" ventilation. These are not entirely correct concepts, there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the supply or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs in a natural way.

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data take into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions in them in terms of air indicators, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air replacement within an hour, it can vary from 1 ÷ 2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and the climatic zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply / exhaust air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics of each type of ventilation, consider them in more detail.

General rules for ventilation in the bath

The principles of the ventilation device in the bath largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through the same slots, there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bath - when opened, they “turn” into exhaust holes. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the air change rate.

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, they are also the most efficient and low-cost ones), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without gaps. It is on such a bath that we will focus in our article. Why do you need to do ventilation in the bath?

For better mixing of air throughout the volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature along the height, the difference in indicators under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of taking water procedures.
For the supply of fresh air. If one person is steaming in the steam room, and the residence time does not exceed 20 ÷ 30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in the steam room for a long time, then the influx of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers fall into two extremes: in order to save heat, they generally refuse ventilation or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences, ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account the features of the premises, the requirements for the temperature in the steam room, the materials for the manufacture of walls and cladding.

In the event of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation increase and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, warm air is quickly removed from the room. But that's not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation is fraught with cold floors

The influx of fresh air in the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many air movement patterns on the Internet, most of them are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Follow only two conditions: air inflow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of channels diagonally across the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal circulation and air mixing. Everything else is reasoning about nothing, they can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, make it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two multi-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The air outlets are located at different heights.

One under the very ceiling, is used only for complete ventilation of the bath after the completion of water procedures. The second is done 30 ÷ 40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bath, they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts are used to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter if it is natural or forced. This is quite justified from both technological and economic points of view.

And what other rooms can be connected to the steam room with ventilation ducts? Weird question. Then why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Wouldn't it be easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grates with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will talk about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation, we will not lay any channels anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both "budget" and expensive exclusive pairs.

Video - Ventilation in the bath

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety, and quite effective. The specific locations of the ventilation openings should be taken into account, taking into account the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, the stove and the material of the building. The general rule is that the holes should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the outer walls. It is desirable that they do not stand out too much on the facade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger than smaller. In case of too rapid air exchange, leading to a decrease in the temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles, they can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently.

Somewhat complicates the ventilation system, requires the installation of electrical equipment. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have a reliable protection of the housing from moisture; during connection, the recommendations of the Electrical Installation Code must be strictly observed. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

The advantages of forced ventilation - the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated, the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same efficiency in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands

Initial data. The architectural features of the bath do not provide for air to enter through the cracks in the floor, doors, windows or the furnace. It is necessary to make holes for both entry and exit of air. There is no internal and external wall cladding, the bathhouse is built of sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit channel diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the volume of the room. Also, the inlet air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an exit hole in the ceiling. We are opponents of such a decision, humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire truss system.

Step 2 Purchase or make your own grates and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of the future cladding of external and internal walls, consider how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable gaps, only they can provide smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - from the outside of the bath, the holes should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, to prevent moisture from rain or snow from getting on the log house crowns.

Step 3 Make holes in the walls.

The most time-consuming operation, you have to work manually. Pre-in the marked places, you need to drill holes around the perimeter. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to gouge the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, a chisel and a hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the timber bridges remaining between the holes. Ventilation holes should be made 1-2 cm around the perimeter more than the inserted pipe. The fact is that then this pipe must be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensate on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - the timber will have to be cut across the fibers, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bath, and the second half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut a hole. But we immediately warn you that it is very dangerous to work with a gasoline saw in such conditions. You will have to cut with the end of the tire, while grabbing the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This way of using the saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to dilute the inlet in the wall and in the bath, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable to use not round pipes, but rectangular ones, they take up less space under the lining of the inner walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints of the elbow and pipe with silicone and wrap with adhesive tape for reliability.

Scotch metallized

Step 4 Lay foil or polyethylene film and mineral wool around the perimeter of the holes, the wool layer should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even, carefully make sure that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5 Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should enter with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to walk around the perimeter of the hole and pipe with foam. Mounting foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after wall cladding, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. During the expansion of the foam, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damages will automatically close.

The pipe to the hood may not be insulated, warm air comes out through it. But we advise, just in case, to do all the operations for her. First, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will make additional and reliable protection against penetration of atmospheric moisture to wooden structures.

When both holes are prepared, you can start upholstering the walls and install decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. We strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil during the installation of steam room ventilation. The work is performed according to the above algorithm with one difference. Ventilation should be either permanently closed (during the adoption of water procedures) or permanently open (during the airing of the bath). Using foil as a wall vapor barrier has many benefits. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensate between the skin and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house with a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation by hand, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine, ordinary drills can quickly fail due to a heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are enough.

Step 1. Choose a drill bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling site.

Step 2 To lighten the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication should be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its inner and outer surfaces.

Step 3 Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill. Insert a crown into a shallow hole and start drilling the timber.

Step 4 Drill as long as the bit height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool, do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown to the bar.

Step 5. The crown does not work further - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It is removed quickly, start gradually chipping holes in the corners. Don't cut the log across the grain with the chisel, only chip it along the grain, it's much easier to do the job.

Repeat the steps until the hole is through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot go through it on one side, go to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the already made hole as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. You will have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the center drill of the crown and very carefully make a through hole. The more precisely you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Bath ventilation with heating

A rather original way of arranging ventilation, not only fresh air lends itself to the bath, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter, as it is possible not only to increase the comfort of your stay, but also to speed up the heating of the premises and save firewood.

The air intake is made at the bottom of the bath and is fed into the air intake duct with the help of electric fans.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, air from the duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator for heating the air coming from the duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can slightly improve the design. Install a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the parameters of the microclimate in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

Why is ventilation needed in a Russian bath? Let's take a simple example: a person is steaming, there is hot steam around him and he breathes it. Oxygen is exhaled and carbon dioxide is constantly inhaled - and if there is no influx of fresh air in such an environment, the vacationer can simply burn out. That is, if there is no ventilation, the bath becomes simply life-threatening, which is why there are so many subtleties in the technical rules for the operation of the bath. Yes, sometimes you can hear from experienced craftsmen that ventilation in a brick bath, for example, is not needed - but this is not about the fact that fresh air is not needed in the steam room, but that sometimes natural ventilation is enough in the bath, and she doesn't need a forced one.

So, how to make ventilation in the bath - we are looking for an answer together with the Stroy-Banya.com portal.

General rules for planning bath ventilation

The ventilation system in the bath itself has two main tasks: to deliver fresh air during the procedures and to ensure fast and high-quality drying of the bath rooms after them. And both options should be thought out and implemented.

And here is what ventilation should not do:

Violate the temperature regime of the bath with an influx of fresh air.
It is wrong to stratify temperature flows - i.e. it can be cool only near the floor, but not on the shelf where a steamed person sits.
To remove from the steam room the wrong air - not exhausted, in which there is the most carbon dioxide.

Also, the lack of fresh air will invariably lead to the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the bath - and it is difficult to get rid of it. Yes, the air filled with mold and fungus spores is not the most healing for a resting person.

In total, ventilation in the bath is provided by the following types:

Natural, when the entire air flow occurs due to the pressure difference between the street and the room.
Mechanical - when both the temperature and the air supply are monitored by devices.
Combined, when pressure is artificially created using a fan.

And in the bath itself, not only inflow is needed, but also outflow - and this is already done with the help of a box, which is always located diagonally from the supply channel.

Ventilation is vital not only in a stuffy steam room - but also in the shower room, in the locker room and even in the rest room. Just initially you need to decide which of its types is suitable for a particular bath.

The floors in the bath should also be ventilated - because they are constantly in contact with water, which can lead to their destruction. If this is not done, they will have to be changed at least once every 5 years. Therefore, in order to extend their service life, it is important to do the following:

Initially, even during the laying of the foundation, it is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the floors - to make small vents on opposite sides of the basement.
It is necessary to leave two more ventilation holes near the opposite walls of the steam room - for fresh air. And so that a rodent does not accidentally enter the bath, these windows are usually closed with bars.
During the installation of the stove, it is important to make sure that the level of the finished floor is slightly higher than the blower - then it will work as a hood.
Boards should be laid so that there are gaps between them from 0.5 to 1 cm.
At the end of the bath procedures, the floors must be dried well - every time.

You can also make ventilation “according to Bast” in the bathhouse: arrange an influx of fresh air under the stove, and exhaust from the ceiling directly opposite the door in the corner. For this, a special exhaust box is used - it can be made from a board and sheathed inside with foil

Correct direction of air flow

Under the floor, the veterinary duct must be made directly right at the metal sheet - it is he who protects the floors from fire. And the size of the box itself should not exceed the diameter of the chimney by 20%. In general, such a system is good - it is easy to regulate the flow of fresh air from the street, but the unpleasant smell no longer penetrates into the steam room.

If the firebox is located directly in the steam room, then this option is the most rational. Of course, the design turns out to be more complex - after all, two boxes already need to be installed in it: one to ensure the convection of air masses, the second - to burn firewood. And the channels themselves can be placed directly in the brick podium - if the furnace is installed.

5 popular device schemes to choose from

But the ventilation in the steam room should be thought out especially carefully - otherwise there will be no comfort from pleasant procedures. And you can provide it in different ways:

Option number 1. The inlet is located behind the stove, half a meter from the floor, while the outlet is on the opposite side, at a height of 30 cm. A fan is installed in it for forced air movement. In this option, the air warms up evenly - cool streams heat up from the furnace and go up, where they cool down and go down. There they are already brought out through the exhaust hole. And the lower it is, the stronger the air flow will be.

Option number 2. Both vents are on the same wall - opposite the stove. But the input is at the bottom, 30 cm from the floor, and the output is at the top, 30 cm from the ceiling. Here, a fan is also placed in the outlet. But the flow pattern is somewhat different: cold air enters the steam room, hits the stove, heats up and rushes up - into the hood and out.

Option number 3. In this method, the inlet is behind the stove, at a height of 20 cm from the floor, and the outlet is at the same height, but on the opposite side. And here, too, a fan is placed. The whole system is quite simple: cold air enters the steam room, passes through the stove and is pulled out with the help of a fan.

Option number 4. This option is ideal for a steam room with floors where there are gaps for water to flow out. The inlet behind the stove at a height of 30 cm from the floor, the air that has cooled down, goes down and penetrates through the floor, and then through the ventilation pipe is discharged into the street.

Option number 5. This method is for those baths where the stove is constantly working. The inlet is opposite the stove, 30 cm from the floor, and the chimney and the firebox with a blower act as an exhaust hood.

If you need to raise the temperature in the steam room or increase the amount or saturation of steam, then it will be enough to close the inlets with plugs. And after the end of the procedures - remove the plugs. And it's easier than pressing the buttons on some remote control to a complex and expensive ventilation system. This is how the ventilation of the bath is done with your own hands - nothing complicated!

Ventilation is needed in all rooms, the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises in which conditions favorable for a person are created. At the same time, it is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and for everyone it is necessary to create the same standard indicators of the microclimate and air quality.

Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas more than + 100 ° C) and high humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, the temperature and humidity indicators should vary widely, depending on the wishes of the washers. Changing the microclimate parameters should be carried out as soon as possible, and the achieved values should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between the bath and ordinary rooms. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothes, then this is impossible to do in the baths.

Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must perform individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and features of operation. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation - natural.

Types of natural ventilation baths

We have already found out the tasks of bath ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it's time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember the lessons of physics from school. Ventilation of premises occurs due to the difference in air density in the street and in the room. Warm air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave, and cold air must be allowed to enter, inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet, you can find statements that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blowing in the wrong direction”. Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the size of the inlet and outlet of air does not affect the performance of ventilation.

Square ventilation window

If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount will get into the cold room, no matter what the dimensions of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of wind backwater or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind "drives" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a back-to-back basis. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.

And with these phenomena it is clear, now we will consider specific types of natural ventilation of the bath. Let's start with the simplest ones and work our way up to the more complex ones.

The simplest, but also the least effective way of ventilation.

In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not in the way we would like. Why?

Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.

Bottom line - ventilation is not the method of ventilation that should be used all the time. This is an extreme method, it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.

This method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the furnace of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; it can enter through floor cracks, an ajar window or door. Sometimes a special hole is made in the lower part of the door leaf; to improve the design, it is closed with a decorative grille.

Benefits of ventilating a bath with a stove.

There are, of course, disadvantages, we will name the main ones.

Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
The presence of "dead" zones. Mixing of air throughout the volume does not occur, there are zones with drafts and zones with stagnant air.
Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in "budget" baths.

For a budget steam room, the best option is to ventilate the stove and ventilate

Airing the bath with a stove - scheme

The best option for ventilation devices for most baths.

Advantages:

Important. It is desirable to think over the ventilation device even before the start of the construction of the bath. Solve questions with the specific placement of holes and their overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the ducts no more than the height of the beam, and to adjust the length of the holes.

Why is it better to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

Variants of placement and sizes of ventilation products

There are a few general rules for all natural ventilation products. Firstly, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air inlets should be located at the bottom of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The exit holes should be placed at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. Where are they recommended to be installed?

It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.

Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bath. This saves time and effort, in addition, the possibility of getting wet of the lower rims of the log house is excluded. The disadvantage is that in most cases the doors are located opposite the shelves for taking bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.

Under the shelf

Advantages - the inlet is imperceptible, cold air flows are well mixed with warm air throughout the volume. The disadvantage is that access to the grate for opening / closing the damper is more difficult. If during washing it is possible to regulate the intensity of ventilation only with the help of the upper grate, then after airing the baths, both must be closed. And this means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.

Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed two for each - outside and inside the steam room. After airing the baths, both should be closed. Choose a grille installation technology that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to get atmospheric moisture on the crowns of the log house.

Behind the oven.

The best option. Cold air from the street hits the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate and low-speed flows. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature adversely affects the plastic or wooden materials of the decorative grille. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet metal using thermal insulation.

Doesn't fit your particular case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.

As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice - do not do it in the ceiling. Waterlogged air cannot be taken out to the attic, it will cause constant wetting of the wooden elements of the truss system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be brought to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the coating, why worsen the tightness of the roof coating with your own hands and at your own expense?

Dimensions of openings for natural ventilation

The technology for calculating the dimensions of ventilation openings is indicated in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum value of the multiplicity is regulated, while both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside are taken into account. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within insignificant limits, which simplifies the work of designers.

In pairs, the situation is much more complicated - the temperature and humidity indicators vary over a very wide range. In addition, the rate of arrival / entry of air in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimum air exchange rate for natural ventilation.

Some bath owners are afraid to suffocate while taking bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam, the bill goes to tens of hours.

Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you closed the stove gate before the firewood is completely burned out, then no ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if there is no more carbon monoxide coming in. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.

How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of the bath

For example, we will take the most difficult option - the outer and inner lining of the walls of the bath has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its dimensions and configuration. It is desirable that air ducts and decorative grilles are available, this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the hole and not do extra work.

Step 2 Prepare a long drill for wood, the working length should exceed the thickness of the bath wall together with the outer and inner lining. In the center of the drawn contour of the vent, drill a through hole from the inside of the steam room. The exit of the drill outside the steam room will be the center of the air. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.

Step 3 Remove the elements of the inner and outer skin in the contour. If your bath is sheathed on both sides with natural clapboard, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside, use a grinder.

Step 4 Carefully inspect the supporting structures of the skin, if they are damaged, repair. Drill through holes as close to each other as possible along the contour of the ventilation duct, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe vent, the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in a tree

Step 5. Next, you need to work with a chisel and a chisel, gradually remove the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely gouge a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half of the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. It is not necessary to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.

The most difficult physical work is done, you can proceed with the installation of the duct and gratings. Don't be discouraged if it takes a long time to make holes, even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes a day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can take metal galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grate according to the size of the hole; to adjust the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.

Step 1. Insulate the planes of the hole with mineral wool, carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use mounting foam. Excess foam that has come out should be cut off after hardening.

Step 2 If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, foam the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from entering the wooden structures.

Step 3 Fasten the gratings, the method of fastening depends on the material of manufacture of the wall cladding and the crate.

Check ventilation with a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air flows in the steam room.

In the photo, the air inflow valve and its performance check

Experiment with natural ventilation at various damper settings, from maximum to minimum.

Video - Installing the KPV 125 valve

Video - Ventilation in a bath with a Termofor air conditioning oven

The positive impact of regular bath procedures on the body is invaluable. At the same time, a bath is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits will be easily blocked by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no effective ventilation in the bath.

Importance of the system

Even in the old days, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in the bathhouse can quickly cause dampness, mold, fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they contributed to the improvement of air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Today, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, because after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constantly high humidity, and if the bath is built using frame technology, then its service life will be even less. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable at the moment the stove is kindled. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous for life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development of dangerous diseases of the bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in the bath must certainly comply with the basic requirements and principles of safety:

Proper distribution of air masses. As is known from the school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush up, and cold ones, on the contrary, fall. Therefore, the flows should be directed so that the legs do not freeze, and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
Maintaining a predetermined level of heating in the steam room. Under no circumstances should ventilation interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, air cooling is unacceptable.
The use of waterproof materials. For the arrangement of steam rooms and the organization of ventilation, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to moisture and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating an efficient air exchange system is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot moist air from all parts of the bath, but at the same time it is required to prevent a decrease in temperature in the hot steam room, so modern systems, as a rule, use the installation of hoods that do not allow cold air to be blown in from outside. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas furnaces, since such schemes require a large amount of oxygen to support the combustion process.

How it works?

High-quality ventilation in a steam room consists of airing and complete drying of all functional areas, as well as walls, floors, attic and the entire under-roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roof and the materials for its manufacture. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally mounted, which allows ventilation to be achieved between the layer of thermal insulation material and other layers of the roofing pie. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensate in the bath.

But for the best drying of the floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is arranged. Such options should be considered at the planning stage of construction work. To do this, a subfloor is laid and concrete is poured at an angle, then the boards are laid in such a way that small gaps remain between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all bath rooms need airing: a steam room, a sink, a rest room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, it is necessary to select in advance such a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bath and the conditions of its operation.

Experienced builders do not recommend complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods that may be suitable for each individual case. Here, the statement that the simpler the better is 100% true, and at its cost this option will be much cheaper.

The principle of operation of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the supply of fresh street air, and the second allows overheated and humid air to come out. How these windows are located in relation to each other depends largely on which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the furnace will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths two outlets are cut instead of a single outlet, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

Of fundamental importance are the dimensions of the windows, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the clearance. To do this, special valves are fixed on them, allowing you to cover any open slots.

It is very important to make the correct calculations of the window, taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, then the steam room simply cannot warm up to the required temperature and you will have to spend more electricity. And if the windows are too small, then the intensity of the movement of flows will be reduced and a complete supersaturation of the air with water vapor may occur.

The size and location of the ventilation windows primarily affects the ingress and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from the overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Kinds

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room up to 50 years and even more. The variant of the ventilation system in each case is selected individually and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All the options for arranging ventilation developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and also combined.

natural ventilation assumes that the change of air is carried out due to the unimpeded flow of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of the steam rooms and the removal of the exhaust through special openings.

Forced the system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed on the hood and much less often on the inflow. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

combined option, as the name implies, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, “bastu” is the most common. It involves the formation of a small opening with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind or below the furnace.

As additional elements, vents are equipped above the stove, which are controlled by a valve and a valve - it is through them that air enters from the outside through the vents from the underground. Usually the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, however, as soon as there is a need to reduce the level of humidity in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is far from suitable in every case, therefore, in some situations, the installation of an exhaust system becomes a more preferable ventilation option - for this, a fan is attached to the bottom of the box. If you install it in the supply hole behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. From the outside of the building, such holes are interconnected by a special ventilation duct. Less often, an exhaust hood is installed in the baths, in which one single channel works for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are equipped at the same height from the floor level: one is placed behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation of forced ventilation.

The most unfortunate way involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming in from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, stumbles upon the feet of the steamers. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such an arrangement is also quite common when it is not technically possible to make holes from different sides of the room.

materials

The choice of the bath ventilation system is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bath is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bath has a common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be taken especially carefully in order to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the wall.

The ventilation system in the baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must necessarily include a fan, which will help to effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bath can be connected to the elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are equipped directly in the walls, and later they are brought out to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional air vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of the buildings according to the frame method is that the walls in them are covered with a large number of heat-insulating layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove the exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with shutters.

In baths built from gas blocks and foam blocks, galvanized air ducts are equipped due to the individual characteristics of the material. To do this, they purchase ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some masters create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, after giving them the necessary configuration and reliably sealing the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in a classic Russian log bath. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all the rooms of the bath, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem often arises of creating optimal proportions between the air entering from outside and leaving the street. In order to prevent the occurrence of drafts and not to "heat the street", experts recommend additionally insulating the bath well and equipping small holes with special valves inside the thermal insulation material, which serve to enter and remove flows.

In buildings made of wood, the burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings initially do not provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately imagine how many bathers will take bath procedures. If the bath is being built for a small family, then you can simply arrange a small supply hole near the stove and an exhaust hole under the ceiling, and if the building is focused on a large company, then forced options should be preferred.

How to make your own?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to properly equip the ventilation system. You can spend it in the bath both on your own and with the involvement of specialists. This will require a project of work, materials and tools, as well as a little time and effort.

What will be needed?

For the installation of ventilation ducts in the bath, preparation is needed. In the work you will need components:

several ventilation valves;
valve;
metal grating;
mosquito net;
ventilation box;
corrugated air duct;
hygrometer;
fan;

thermometer;
metallized adhesive tape;
collar;
mounting foam;
sealant;
fasteners;
decorative overlays for facing inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely represented in any store in a variety of colors and textures, so getting the best option will not be a problem. Vent valves are installed on the exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Gate valves are used to quickly open or close openings. They are made from a wide variety of materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and fixation strength, they are in no way inferior to store options.

A grid with a mesh, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier to insects and rodents, whose presence is highly undesirable either at home or in a bathhouse. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box, as a rule, is attached from the outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid along the top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some make the box on their own, using corrugated pipes for this. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for double rooms, since most types of plastic begin to deform under the influence of high temperatures.

The fan in the steam room is used for both supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it will work only in the general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially made for Finnish saunas and baths. Thermo and hygrometers are used to make the use of the bath as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its performance, open the supply valve or start the exhaust.

Planning for the construction of a steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some of the nuances of installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bath, it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. The adjustable windows themselves are fixed only after the completion of the decorative finishing of the complex.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, and if the task is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust hole with a diameter lower than that of the supply one is strictly not allowed, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

By all means, dampers and valves must be provided in the system, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow you to close the holes with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable shutters are also important because the air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the season. In winter, when negative temperatures prevail outside the window, cold air masses penetrate the bathhouse more intensively, which is why the windows are partially opened in the autumn-winter period, thereby delaying the entry of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conditionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are made with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too much ventilated, or vice versa.

Even at the design stage of the bath, it should be remembered that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required areas of heating. Exhaust openings should be located slightly below ceiling level. This is because warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed to the outside, and if the holes are low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the general microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, since with constant contact with water, wooden surfaces lose their performance characteristics after 3-5 years, therefore important requirements for a ventilated floor:

to form the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter in size between the boards;
the finishing floor must be laid without fail above the level of the blower, which contributes to the fact that the stove starts to work as an additional hood;
after taking bath procedures, you should leave the front door completely open until the floor dries.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to equip ventilation here, since there is no direct contact with water in such a room. As a rule, a combined or natural ventilation method is formed here, when cool air enters through the supply duct and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the action of a fan.

In addition, it is allowed to install ventilators here, which may require connecting to an electrical network and access to the street. As for the washing room, forced ventilation is usually built here, and air is exchanged here using an electric motor.

We organize the hood in an already built bath

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation, which was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bath was heated - in black or white, it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct soaring, so open windows and doors were used for ventilation. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip the hood in an already built building.

To do this, you should punch holes right in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is punched in the area of the furnace blowing, and the second - near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bath is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then it will be much more problematic to form holes and equip the hood, since in the process of such work it is possible to violate the integrity of the walls at all in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bath as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not independently do ventilation in already operated baths. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, study the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted once again that the basic principles for creating an effective ventilation system largely depend on the dimensions of the bath and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be observed regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for inflow, the second - for the removal of air masses. If you plan in advance the hood in the bath under construction, you can avoid serious problems with the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam room.

It is absolutely unacceptable that the installed ventilation creates the following problems:

Ventilation in the bath is not only comfort, but also an urgent need. It is needed both during and after bath procedures:

In the process, it is important so that no one gets burned. The danger of carbon monoxide poisoning is always present - it is the result of incomplete combustion of fuel. Therefore, ventilation is necessary for the safety of people in the bath.
Besides air that is inhaled and exhaled becomes "waste", and it must be removed, replacing it with a new one, with a greater proportion of oxygen.
regulate the temperature, monitoring the condition of people, you can also use ventilation, especially when you need to do it urgently.
Any stove runs on oxygen (combustion is oxidation), so it needs ventilation. And with a competent device, you can also get fuel economy.
And, finally, drying after, on which the durability of the structure, especially its wooden parts, directly depends. Ventilation can be good prevention of fungus and decay.

At the same time, bath ventilation is quite complex and diverse in design. Of course, the question can be reduced to financial investments, but in fact, you just need a good ventilation specialist who will find the best solution in each case. We will consider all the possibilities and features of the device.

The ventilation system in the bath: what can it be?

Ventilation systems in baths are divided at once according to several parameters:

forced or natural;
exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust;
local or public.

Let us explain that the forced one differs from the natural one by the presence of fans that forcibly drive air in or out, the local one differs from the general exchange one in its local character, for example, the chimney above the stove is local ventilation, and the vents are part of the general exchange.

As for the supply, exhaust and their combination, these are indications of which air is directed where: the exhaust drives the exhaust air out, the supply air drives fresh air in, and their combination creates a balanced air exchange inside the room.

These are general terms for any ventilation, but our task is to consider a bathhouse that has its own specifics. We advise you to familiarize yourself with (8 types) along the way.

Useful video

Watch a short video, as one of the options for organizing ventilation in the bath:

Natural ventilation in the bath

It works on the principles of physics, which say that heating makes air lighter and causes it to rise. And an increase in the volume of cold air accelerates the movement of hot air. Knowing about this property, you can not install any devices at all, there are enough ventilation holes, the location of which will make some of them supply air, and others - exhaust.

And in the bath there is a stove, and this is a very favorable circumstance for the direction of air circulation. If the natural ventilation inlet is located near the floor next to the blower, then the stove itself will draw in fresh air, without any fan. Also, traction is improved by raising the finished floor just above the hole under the firebox.

The exhaust opening is usually made on the side that is opposite the wall with the supply opening, but this is not the only option.

Forced ventilation

If fans are placed in the same holes, then you can not be afraid of calmness or other weather conditions that adversely affect the air circulation in the bath.

In principle, there is no big difference between natural and forced ventilation in the circuit itself, it is only a matter of which holes the fans are in. Because you can not put them everywhere, reinforcing only the exhaust or only the inflow. But by creating a large difference between the inflow and outflow, we change the pressure in the room. This is easily detected by the way the door slams. The task is to create a balance between outflow and inflow, and the air during bath procedures should circulate slowly, without causing a draft. And when drying, a draft is only good.

IMPORTANT! The direction in which the fan drives the air depends on the location of its blades, so it is important to ensure that there is no exhaust fan in the supply opening and vice versa.

Bath ventilation device: principles of operation

Bath ventilation can be conditionally divided into permanently functioning (roofing, foundation, wall) and periodically functioning, during bathing procedures and stove operation. Both are parts of a single ventilation system, which is laid during construction.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system: displacement of exhaust air with fresh air. In the most primitive case, two holes are enough for this, but in practice, flow directions also matter, so the number of supply and exhaust holes can be increased, and they themselves are equipped with dampers, which are a means of controlling flows, their volumes and speed.

Regardless of the location, the air inlets are always lower than the exhaust ones. Sometimes air flow is provided through the blinds at the bottom of the door to the steam room. But there is one rule: Where does the air come from, where should it go?. If we take from the premises, we need to return not to the street, but also to the premises. Otherwise it won't work.

The calculation of the area of ventilation windows is quite simple: we must proceed from the fact that each cubic meter of room volume needs a window with an area of 24 cm². Windows in no case are made directly opposite each other at the same height.

When the bath warms up, the vents in the foundation close, the dampers in the steam room move.
During soaring, the windows open slightly as needed.
After completion of the procedures, the bath is ventilated entirely.

Also prepared to help you (10+ different schemes).

Bastu ventilation in the bath

Bastu-type ventilation, named after convection Swedish baths, is gaining more and more popularity in Russian baths. It is easy to make and highly effective.

The air flow under the furnace is carried out using a ventilation pipe from the street. In this case, a damper is required that would block it.

For air outflow, a box is mounted, which starts 20-30 cm from the floor and goes outside. The location of the box is diagonally from the furnace. The material is best stainless steel. The box must also overlap 100%.

So, it works as follows: if a certain volume enters the room, then the corresponding volume will be pushed out from there if there is an exit. A working furnace actively sucks in cold air from the supply air duct. Part of it is used in combustion (and leaves through the chimney), and part rises, heating up along the way from the stove. The excess volume in parallel begins to leave through the box, which takes air from the floor. Therefore, fresh heated air is in the breathing zone, and the exhaust is at the bottom and leaves.

Video

See how Bastu is explained and done in these videos:

Bastu ventilation is “turned on” and “turned off” by manipulating the valves. At the same time, the stove must work, because it is she who is the heat pump responsible for air circulation. If the stove goes out, the bastu ventilation in the bath will not work.

Bastu ventilation is ideally used in the sauna, where you need to change the air 6-8 times per hour. But in the Russian bath, the conditions are somewhat different, and although you can put the bass in it, there are restrictions on its use.

Bastu ventilation in a Russian bath

Russian banya is not too high temperature and plenty of steam. Under such conditions bastu ventilation in a Russian bath should not be “turned on” while soaring.

But you can safely start it at the very beginning, at the stage of warming up the steam room. In this case, the heating time will increase, but it will be uniform. If you leave the valves open, the bastu will dry out and overheat the steam room. You can try to "turn on" the bass at the last stage soaring - the air will be light, hot, you can breathe freely. Great ending to a run.

Bastu in the Russian bath useful for drying after procedures- she copes with this perfectly and there will be no smells, no mold with such drying.

Bath floor ventilation

The floor in the bath needs to be completely dried after the procedures. The first condition for this will be the organization of the correct flow, with a slope that will divert water into the sewer. Of course, there are several floor options.

For pouring (wet) floors, ventilation is especially important. Therefore, the gaps between the boards, reaching a width of up to 1 cm, are needed not only to drain water, but also to dry the boards. And the opening of the air in the foundation will help in this, which we will discuss below.

A dry floor does not imply gaps between the boards, because it is mounted from a tongue-and-groove board. So, the principle of its ventilation is somewhat different. Drying will have to be done from above by means of burst ventilation (this means opening all windows and doors) and the system that is provided in the bath, for example, forced supply and exhaust.

Useful video

Look at what dampness can lead to on a dry floor, even if it is covered with yacht varnish:

The ventilation riser in the washing room will be discussed below, but it also affects the ventilation of the floor.

And the floor is well blown during the operation of the furnace, if (as already mentioned), raise its level above the blower, and leave small gaps between the boards in the floor itself.

Bath foundation ventilation

Actually, everything starts with it, because it is mounted when laying the foundation. To do this, scraps of asbestos-cement pipes are taken, filled with sand and, in this form, are laid among the reinforcement, fastened with a knitting wire between the rods at a height of 5 to 12 cm above the ground. After stripping, the sand is removed.

There can be two such holes in total, laid on opposite sides of the base. However, in reality, it is necessary to take into account a number of various factors, on which both the number of holes and their diameter ultimately depend. By the way, the usual diameter is 11 cm.

Useful video

See what the lack of ventilation for floor and foundation ventilation can lead to:

Before designing ventilation, take into account:

remoteness of the bath from the reservoir;
location (on a hill or in a lowland);
surrounded by other buildings on all sides;
wind rose of this section;
bath area.

It is clear that if the bath in the lowland or around solid buildings, more holes must be made, and even from all sides. You can also increase the diameter, but put a grille-blinds or damper.

CAREFULLY! Rodents can get into unprotected vents, so it is recommended to also tighten them with a metal mesh.

Holes provided with plugs are usually left closed during procedures, but they are opened to dry.

Ventilation of different rooms of the bath:

Due to differences in the temperature and humidity conditions of each of the bath rooms, ventilation in them is organized differently.

sinks

The washing compartment is the wettest, so it is recommended to equip it with a ventilation riser, which is located in the corner, under the floor. This is an asbestos-cement pipe, which is then brought to the roof and supplied with a deflector from above. Ventilation in the sink occurs due to the pressure difference between the room and the end of the pipe above the roof, the air tends to the outside, carrying excess moisture with it.

The reason why you have to bring it to the roof is simple: if moist air is immediately driven out into the street, then the wall where this hole will be located will quickly deteriorate from the outside.

steam rooms

attic

Attic ventilation is a special song. It is done at the stage of installation of the roof.

1- ceiling 2- spotlights 3- roof ridge

IMPORTANT! It is not true that for attic ventilation it is enough for a window on the pediment. These windows will not replace the supply and exhaust system in the roof.

Supply holes are made under the roof canopy (between the roof sheathing and the upper part of the wall, where the rafters rest on the Mauerplate), and exhaust holes are made on the ridge. There should also be openings on the gables, but they are small and very high.

It is also important to take into account the ratio between the area of supply and exhaust openings on one side and the total area of \u200b\u200bthe attic. It is optimal that the first be 1/500 of the second. The ratio between the area of supply and exhaust is not 50 to 50, exhaust should be 10-15% larger in area than supply.

This system is suitable for those baths in which the attic is cold. And there are also baths with attics. There, ventilation is also done at a time when the roof is still open from the attic.

For ventilation of the under-roof space (between the roofing material and the membrane), either natural or forced ventilation can be used. But for the functioning of both, aerators and spotlights are needed.

Aerators are installed either on the area of the roof slope, or on the ridge (these are the most effective). They serve for extraction. And the soffits are responsible for the flow of air. These are siding panels for sheathing roof overhangs, some of which must be perforated. The ratio of the area of the ventilation holes and the ventilated area is the same as mentioned above 1/500.

IMPORTANT! The efficiency of aerators will be higher if you install only ordinary or only ridge aerators.

Fans for the under-roof space are used as supply fans. Particular attention is paid to the wiring so that it does not cause a fire.

baths in the basement or basement of the house

Some owners of country houses allocate a basement or basement floor for a bath. Such an arrangement of a hot and humid room makes special demands on ventilation, on which the durability of the whole house now rests.

Note that the redevelopment of the former residential or utility premises includes the redevelopment of ventilation. In general, it is more expensive than the bath included in the project of a house under construction.

One way or another, you need do not forget about the ventilation gap between the walls and the insulation. This will protect against damage to the insulation by condensate. But the moisture in the air corridor must also go somewhere. Therefore, for basement and basement baths, professionally made supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended, and it is better not natural, but forced. Both are accompanied by the installation of a basement deflector.

The location of the basement ventilation depends on the specifics of the project and will not be given here. It is also possible to install a special dehumidifier.

A good option would be to choose bastu ventilation - it's not so expensive, but very effective. The bastu device was mentioned above.

shower

If there is a shower cabin or an open shower in the bath, it is worth installing forced ventilation nearby, which will speed up the drying process.

If we assume that the air flow is provided by the existing supply openings located in the washing room and other rooms, then you can put the fan only on the exhaust opening, which is located near the shower. (You can do the same if there is a bathroom in the bath.)

dressing room

The dressing room suffers from condensation due to the temperature difference between it and the hot rooms of the bath. That's why ventilation in it is necessary in the same way as everywhere else in the bath. One air is located at the bottom, the other at the top. The lower one is responsible for the inflow of air, the upper - for its outflow. Installation of forced ventilation is not prohibited. In addition, you can ventilate the dressing room with the help of a door and (if any) a window.

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