A hard-working person always has a lot to do both at home, in the workshop, and on the garden plot. But you never know where you may need a completely simple device - a modern embodiment in metal of the principle of "Archimedean screw"!
Of course, like many other things, the designated tool, even on a gasoline engine, can now be bought at a specialized store. But for a real master, who also knows how to count his money, there is no problem in how to make a drill with your own hands.
It is enough to assemble this device of high quality and convenient for operation in order to understand how much the horizon of possibilities of a person who wishes to make his living space as comfortable and functional as possible will expand.
Hand drill for the earth, its design and purpose
As already mentioned, the drill is perhaps the simplest mechanism that converts a person’s muscular effort or an engine impulse (if we are talking about a motorized version) into the rotational-translational movement of a large “drill” (Fig. 1).
The simplicity and reliability of this device emphasizes the minimum number of its components.
Figure 1. Earth drill - a device designed for drilling holes in the ground.
If you do not take into account some additional details, then conceptually it consists of only three elements - a metal (sometimes wooden, which is worse) pole (rack) or a pipe attached to it at one end of the auger and a rotary handle (lever) attached to the other sides.
The auger, which forms a classic Archimedean screw, can have a number of additional blades for improved penetration of a particular soil mass, and the handle-lever can be made in the form of a T-shaped crossbar, a cross-shaped design, or in any other form that seems most acceptable to the customer for efficient drilling.
This device is widely used in exploration and construction work, in gardening and during men's leisure activities, which is winter ice fishing. It will be of great help to a person who needs to dig several planting holes in the garden, make drainage holes in the yard, make a series of recesses for mounting piles, etc.
Depending on these and other purposes of using the tool, all drills may differ from each other in size and have different auger configurations. However, they all operate on the same principle.
Materials and tools necessary for the manufacture of the drill
Before proceeding directly to work, you should stock up on all the necessary materials and tools. The master will need:
- a piece of gas pipe (for the manufacture of a vertical rack);
- a fragment of sheet steel of high strength (for the production of propeller blades);
- a piece of smooth reinforcement (metal rod) with a diameter of 16-20 mm (for making a handle);
- apparatus for welding;
- welding clamp;
- lathe;
- emery circle;
- electric drill;
- a set of drills for metal;
- angle grinder (grinder) with a disc for metal;
- gas key;
- mounting vice.
How to make a drill: sequence of operations
The manufacture of a drill (Fig. 2) begins with the production of its blade. For this purpose, a steel sheet is taken, from which round blanks are cut. They are made in such a way that the diameter of the circle is about 5-6 mm larger than the diameter of the planned well in the ground. For a standard drill, a minimum amount of 2 discs is sufficient.
Figure 2. Drawing of an earthen drill.
Then, central holes are drilled in round blanks. For convenient mounting on a rack, their diameter should exceed the diameter of the metal pipe - the future rack - by about 1-2 mm.
The next step is to designate the points where the disks will be attached to the rack. At these points, holes should be drilled in the pipe. For mounting disks on a lathe, metal bushings are made. They also make radial threaded holes. The bushings bolted to the post will attach the detachable auger blades to the post.
Further, with a grinder with a cutting wheel, small sectors are cut from the edge to the center in the blanks of the blades. After that, with the help of a vice and gas wrenches, the edges of the cuts are gently stretched in opposite directions. As a result, each circle should get a spiral look. To complete the preparation stage of the blades, the lower edges of their cutouts are sharpened at an angle of 50-60 degrees.
Let's go to the counter. So that the drill can easily enter the mass to be processed, at its end, where the screw will be formed, a metal drill is welded by welding. The tip itself for this purpose is sharpened at an angle of sharpening of 20-30 degrees.
The final phase in the manufacture of a hand drill is the installation of a lever handle, which will carry out the axial rotation of the entire device. To fix it on the rack, a special sleeve is used, previously machined on a lathe. The handle must be removable, since when drilling to great depths, you will probably need to extend the stand more than once with additional elbows. The manufacture of these knees should be taken care of separately.
Do-it-yourself drill: other design options
Figure 3. A - a diagram of a drill with an auger of a recycled grain harvester, B - a diagram of a drill with a pan-shaped container, C - a diagram of a drill with auger blades made from used disks.
Along with the described standard drill, it is possible to offer some other options for the manufacture of hand-held drilling fixtures, which use elements of well-known designs that have already been in use.
In particular, it is possible to make a drill, in which an auger is used, which once stood on a recycled combine harvester (Fig. 3, a). At the bottom of the auger, the diameter of which is approximately 130-150 mm, closer to the end of the rack, an auxiliary blade is mounted, made up of two old cultivator paws. They should be welded to the rack in such a way that the angle between them and the plane perpendicular to the axis of the rack is 25-30 degrees.
It is possible to manufacture a drill using a container shaped like a pan (Fig. 3, b). The specified element is mounted on the rack through a hole drilled in the center of the bottom of the container. The stand at the bottom ends with a drill with a diameter of up to 25-30 mm. Two knives are attached to the container body from opposite sides. Slots up to 40 mm wide are made in front of both knives in the bottom of the pan - through them, during the rotation of the drill, the waste soil will flow into the container and accumulate there. When filling the container, the drill is removed from the recess, the contents are poured out and lowered into the well again.
The third option, the simplest one, is a drill, in which the auger blades will be used disks, previously cut into two equal hemispheres (Fig. 3, c). These parts are welded to the metal post at their center point. Moreover, improvised blades must be attached to the rack in the same place, at a distance of at least 900 mm from the lever handle.
To give the said semicircles the properties of an effective drill screw, their planes must be inclined in opposite directions with respect to each other, while the angle between both planes is set at least 30 degrees. This option, despite all its simplicity, is distinguished by a very high operating efficiency - such a drill can drill a meter well with a diameter of about 15 cm in 10 minutes.
A few points to consider when making a drill
To make the drill not only of high quality, but also practical in the widest possible range of applications, a clear understanding of a number of important factors and following the relevant recommendations will help. In conclusion, they deserve special attention.
For example, in the production of a universal hand drill, which can perform operations of various purposes and volumes, it is recommended to provide that the auger blades are not welded tightly to the rack, but are removable. This circumstance, as well as the presence of a whole set of round blades of different diameters and configurations, will surely make this tool a truly multifunctional device, useful in many situations.
It is known from practice that 9- and 12-cm drill blades are best suited for drilling holes for feeding and planting seedlings of plants, wells for determining the level of groundwater, pits for installing greenhouses and installing tunnels for underground utilities. Blades with a diameter of 17 and 25 cm will best suit those who plant plants with taproots, fill the supports of various fences, fences and other small outbuildings, arrange compost pits, build wells.
Hand drills are used to perform many types of work and are among the most popular tools.
Making them yourself is considered an alternative to making a decision to purchase such products.
This article will be devoted to the topic of making a garden drill with your own hands.
Big features in a small tool
Hand drills are considered essential tools that allow you to perform a wide range of work during construction, repair, landscape design, arrangement of a summer cottage, garden, garden, soil research.
They allow you to drill holes in the ground of the correct shape, the same size and consist of several metal parts. With limited free cash, making the right tool with your own hands is considered the best option.
Such a solution will allow planting trees, drilling shallow wells or wells, installing supports for installing arches and trellises, supports for the foundation, arranging cesspools, compost pits, and also making holes for the pillars of the building envelope without much difficulty.
The design of the tool for drilling holes in the ground
Features of the structural parts of the auger drill determine its varieties. These include:
- auger with a cutting element;
- rack or axle of different diameters;
- the handle is short, medium length.
The use of high-quality metal determines the reliability, durability, long service life of garden tools. Its working element may consist of several tiers of blades. The collapsible design of the drill makes it possible to increase the length of its barrel, to replace nozzles and handles.
Tools, materials for self-production
To make a homemade garden drill, you need to decide on its design and prepare the necessary tools and materials. Their list includes:
- apparatus for making welding joints and turning equipment;
- sheet steel of high strength, 3-5 mm thick and short, long pieces of metal pipes;
- reinforcing rods with a diameter of 16 mm to 30 mm and a length of at least 1.6 m;
- an emery or abrasive wheel, which makes it possible to grind the necessary elements;
- powerful drill and drill bits for metal.
Advice: for the manufacture of cutting elements of the drill, instead of blanks from sheet steel, you can use circular saw blades.
Manufacturing steps
Making a homemade drilling fixture takes a lot of time compared to buying it. But at the same time, there will be an opportunity to gain practical skills and save money.
After preparing the necessary materials, tools, they begin to manufacture a garden drill. The main steps include:
1. Several round blanks of different diameters are cut out of sheet steel of increased strength for the cutting parts of the drill. This solution makes it possible to make wells of the required width.
2. Holes are drilled in the center of the steel circles. Their diameter should be 1-1.5 mm greater than the thickness of the axis of the garden tool.
3. At the third stage, they start turning cylindrical parts with holes for bushings on a lathe, followed by threading. It must match the size of the bolts used to securely fasten the cutting elements to the drill stand.
4. On the working parts of the drill, using a cutting wheel, small segments are cut out. The rest of the disk must be stretched with a twisting force and given the appearance of a screw.
5. The lower edge of the cutting element is sharpened at an angle of 45º - 60º. At this stage, the manufacture of the blade is completed.
6. At this stage, the lower part of the drill stand is cut, retreating 8 cm from its end. The depth of flat cuts should be 3mm. The work is done using an emery wheel.
7. To form the point of an earth drill, it is necessary to sharpen the lower end of the axis at an angle of 30º and make spiral grooves. If you weld a metal drill to the end of the stand, the tool will easily enter dry, hard soil.
Advice: the use of scrap as the axis of the drill will eliminate the stage of sharpening the lower end of the tool.
8. At the opposite end of the garden drill, a removable handle is fixed. The use of a bushing will provide a rigid fixation of the part. If desired, special sections can be made from segments of a metal pipe, allowing you to increase the height of the rack. With their help, you can make holes of great depth.
9. At the final stage, a hand-made tool is coated with an anti-corrosion compound and paint for reliable protection from negative environmental factors.
Below, we suggest you watch a video on how to make a garden drill with your own hands:
Reading time ≈ 10 minutes
Residents of the private sector are well aware of such situations when something needs to be built or installed, but the foundation of such a structure will be in the ground. In this regard, many are wondering how to make a drill for drilling holes for poles (piles) with their own hands, using materials that may be available in the household. In addition, without undue modesty, it can be argued that in some cases, self-made tools exceed the quality of factory products. The thing is that a standard is produced at the factory, and at home you can adapt such a device to specific needs, taking into account the condition of the soil.
Homemade manual garden drill
Dependence of the design on the purpose
For domestic needs, you can make a manual drill for various purposes with your own hands, although in any case, such a tool is intended for drilling holes. But at the same time they are distinguished in appearance and performance, these are:
- ordinary garden drill;
- auger garden drill;
- pile drill TISE (Technology of Individual Construction and Ecology).
To assemble such a tool, you will definitely need a welding machine powered by AC or DC.
common garden drill
Earth garden drill
For the manufacture of a conventional garden drill, which is most often used for not very deep pits, holes need a powerful rod, from a solid (scrap) or hollow pipe profile. In addition, you will need semicircular cutting discs welded at a certain angle of attack (best of all if it is alloy steel). With the help of this tool, holes are made for planting plants (usually, these are seedlings of shrubs or trees), as well as holes for mounting fence posts or other light architectural structures.
Auger homemade hand drill
The word "auger" from the German language ("Schnecke") is translated as "snail" and this perfectly characterizes the configuration of the cutting device. The blades are positioned as a right hand thread with a large pitch, which makes it much less likely to pull the drill out of the ground, as the soil rises to the full height of the blades without interfering with drilling. The functionality of such a tool is practically no different from the device described above, but labor productivity in this case almost doubles. If, for example, you build a fence around the perimeter of the site, then you will have to install a lot of supports, so speed will only bring benefits. Of course. For auger, it is better to use an automated drive.
Homemade drill for TISE piles
Wells with an extension at the bottom are made with such a tool.
The TISE pile drill fully complies with the technology of individual construction and the ecology of work, and in domestic conditions, as a rule, is used to fill pillars with an expanded sole under. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that there is a folding blade (knife) near the cutting blades, with the help of which an extension is formed. If we talk about labor productivity when pouring such foundations, then such tools are simply irreplaceable.
Making an ordinary garden drill at home
Below we will consider how such a design can be made at home, provided that there is a workshop (for many motorists this is a garage).
Elements
Components from which the entire assembly is made
Item List:
- The cutting parts are two alloy steel semicircles with sharpened edges. Depending on the purpose of the tool, its diameter is also determined. In some cases, the blades from the semicircle are fixed by bolting so that they can be replaced with a different diameter.
- Rod - is a round or square pipe profile, although sometimes such a part is made from scrap, but this significantly increases the mass and complicates the workflow. The length of the rod depends on the need, but most often it is made under pits 50-80 cm long up to 1.5 m (when this parameter decreases, you have to constantly work in a bent position). But if one and a half meters is not enough (the depth of the pit is 80-100 cm or more), then it is better to make a prefabricated rod, with stackable rods (they can be joined using a nipple).
- The crossbar for the handle is welded to the top of the rod in the form of the letter T, where the optimal length of the crossbar is 25-30 cm in each direction. If you make these levers shorter, then scrolling will be much harder.
- The tip is made sharp, it serves as a drill that centers the blades in relation to the surface of the earth. That is, they will not move to the side, as they are integral with the drill.
What materials will be needed
Square pipe profile
For the manufacture of the rod, as mentioned above, a square or round pipe profile is suitable. If the wall of such a profile has a thickness of 2-2.5 mm, then a section of 20 × 20 mm or ø20 mm will do, but if the walls are thinner, then the section should be increased to 30 × 30 or 35 × 35 mm, ø30-35 mm. In the event that during operation there may be a need to wind an additional rod, then only a round pipe profile is suitable for the rod.
Flat tip in the form of a spike with a central and lateral sharpening
A sharp tip must be welded to the end of the rod, which can be made from a piece of a thick drill with a victorious solder - they are used for drilling concrete with a hammer drill. But you can also make such a point from thick rebar or a piece of steel, sharpening it in the form of a flat spike, as in the top photo.
The cutting part is made from a hand-held circular saw blade.
The most crucial moment is the manufacture of cutting blades and they can be made from:
- sheet steel 3-4 mm thick;
- saw blade from a grinder (diamond) or a manual circular saw.
In this case, it is most convenient to use discs from a diamond-coated grinder designed for cutting concrete, or from a hand-held circular saw. When the diamond coating is activated, a thin strip of no more than 1 mm remains around the circumference and it is easy to grind it off, making the edges sharp, and the toothed disk from the circular will only have to be cut in half.
For reference. The internal diameter of the disc or mounting hole is standard and is 22.5 mm.
And a few more words about the handle - it should be made of a round pipe and in no case should you put any plastic on it and, moreover, wrap it with electrical tape.
Way of fastening knives
Bolt-on blades
If it is planned to drill wells of different diameters, then the blades on the tool can be made of a removable type. For this purpose, two shelves are welded to the rod and knives are bolted to them, as shown in the top photo.
The optimal angle of attack is 30-40⁰
If you are not going to change the diameter of the blades, then the best option is ø120 mm, and for this, a saw or edged blade ø125 mm (5 mm wide diamond coating and it will no longer be), which needs to be cut into two semicircles, is the best fit. The seat ø22.5 mm will have to be adjusted to the rod, cutting off the excess by electric welding. For soft soils, the angle of attack is usually made 30⁰, and sometimes even 40⁰, but for hard soils it is better to lower it to 22-25⁰.
Components of a garden drill: 1) a rod with a point, 2) cutting discs, 3) a handle for rotation
Here is a drawing of a homemade garden drill with ø120 mm blades (according to the diameter of a used cutting disc for diamond-coated concrete). Below is a video on the manufacture of such a tool:
Video: DIY garden drill in a home workshop
Auger drill
Schematic diagram of the manufacture of auger drill
Now let's figure out how to make an auger drill for drilling holes for poles with your own hands. Such a tool does not have to be removed from the hole every 5-10 cm of the passage, since the soil dump moves during rotation to the upper blades of the auger. This greatly speeds up the process, but working with it requires great physical strength, therefore, in most cases, such installations are used in conjunction with an automated drive.
All discs are clamped in a vise and the same sector is cut out for rotation.
Now the most crucial moment: you need to cut out a trapezoidal sector from all the disks stacked together, although these inclined ones will intersect in the center, forming an acute angle. The bottom line is that when you rotate each upper disk, the left side of the cut sector must coincide with the right side of the lower one. Of course, it is better to do such things on paper first, and if everything matches, transfer the markings for cutting to metal. The number of turns of the auger will correspond to the number of discs.
Attention! Do not lose sight of the fact that for docking at the lower disk, the right side of the sector is used, and the upper left. If you do the opposite, then you have to drill counterclockwise.
Now the welding work begins:
- put a disk on the plane, and put another one on top of it, but in such a way as to cover the cut sector, that is, the left side of the upper one should adjoin the right side of the lower one;
- this joint is welded by electric welding and the next disk is placed on top, acting on the same principle;
- so all the disks are joined and welded, making a compressed spring out of them.
The compressed spring is stretched with a winch
Upon completion of welding, this homemade spring must be stretched to make an auger out of it. To do this, the assembly is put on the rod and the lower disk is welded at the desired angle, for example, 30⁰, and something like a ring can be welded to the upper disk in order to be hooked by the winch hook. The rod is fixed on the floor (figure out how to do it yourself - the circumstances are different) and the spring is stretched with a winch, after which the upper disk is welded. The rod is released and the entire structure is scalded in a spiral.
Video: Making an auger drill
Drill for piles TISE
The principle of operation of the drill for TISE piles
The drawing above shows the principle of operation of the TISE pile drill: first, it makes a shaft of the desired diameter, and at the bottom, the well is expanded with a folding knife. But, perhaps, I will disappoint you, because in order to make such a design at home, you need at least a workshop with tools and the professional skills of a locksmith. To consider such an assembly, you will have to post a separate article, even a small one, but here we will limit ourselves to showing a video on self-assembly of the TISE drill:
Video: Homemade drill for TISE piles at home
Conclusion
From this material, you learned how to make a drill for drilling holes for poles with your own hands. With a drill for TISE piles, you will not install a fence or build a foundation, so for a house a regular or, if there is something to make a drive, an auger drill is quite enough.
Garden tools simplify a large number of different types of work on a suburban area. These are simple to design and use tools with which you can carry out different works with different purposes. One of these tools is a manual garden drill. With its help, the time is reduced and the severity of digging holes of different diameters in the ground is reduced.
The design of the drill is very simple. This is a vertical metal bar to which a pointed tip is welded. A perpendicular handle is attached to the top of the bar, special plates are welded just above the tip, removable knives are attached to them with bolts. By choosing knives of different lengths, you can increase or decrease the diameter of the dug holes. At the same time, the depth of the wells can also be controlled by increasing the rod itself. The garden drill set has removable sections that are attached to the rod using a threaded connection.
And although the drill itself is called a garden drill, it has found its application in various areas of private construction. That is, they use it not only in the garden or in the garden. For example:
- With its help, it is possible to make wells in the ground for supporting structures (for columnar foundations, for fence posts).
- For the construction of shallow wells or compost pits.
- You can use it to drill inclined or horizontal wells for laying communication systems or drainage of the site.
- Of course, it is often used for its intended purpose - digging holes for planting trees.
Types of earthen garden drills
The tool market today offers a fairly wide range of garden drills, here both domestic devices and foreign ones. The most popular manual garden drill today is a tool called the Bison. The Russians have been using it for a long time, considering it an excellent garden tool, which has high reliability, long service life and the cheapest price. In second place, you can put a manual earth drill of the TISE brand, also from a Russian manufacturer. Let's not forget about foreign analogues. For example, the Finnish manual earthen drill Fiskars, which has an original improved design. True, such a manual garden drill costs more than Russian ones.
A few words about the TISE brand storm. To understand what I'm talking about, look at the photo above. This is a rather complicated design, with the help of which it is possible to make an expansion at the very depth of the well. Such an earth drill is called a foundation drill, because it is usually used for the construction of foundation structures. In this case, the expansion increases the strength of the columnar foundation in the longitudinal direction (from top to bottom). That is, due to expansion, it is possible to reduce the diameter of the dug well, which reduces material costs for the purchase of building materials, mainly cement.
We add that garden hand drills are not necessarily only mechanical tools. Today, manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of electric and gasoline analogues, with the help of which the process of digging holes and wells has been brought to a minimum of simplicity. Of course, these are fuel costs, and the price of such a unit is higher, but in pursuit of the convenience and speed of earthworks, many summer residents and suburban developers choose them today.
In addition to lamellar drills, the market also offers auger types. It is the auger design that allows you to increase the productivity of digging the soil. In addition, some models in their composition do not have smooth edges of the working surface, but serrated ones. It is these teeth that make it easy to cut the roots of plants and quickly delve into the hardest ground.
And another variety of garden drills is the Tornado brand. A completely different design, which has become a symbiosis of plate knives and fork knives. Take a look at the photo of the drill below and you will immediately understand the distinctive features of the Tornado. This design reduces rotational resistance to a minimum due to vertically mounted fork blades. They just loosen the ground very well and cut the roots of plants without any problems.
How to make an earthen garden drill with your own hands
Of course, the ideal option is to purchase a drill in a store. This is quality and reliability. But you can make a garden drill with your own hands from improvised materials without any problems, because its design is not so complicated. What will be required for this?
Of the tools: an electric welding machine and a grinder. From materials:
- Water pipe 1.5 m long with a diameter of 20 mm.
- For the handle of the drill, it is better to use a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm and a length of half a meter.
- Metal plate 5 mm thick. The rest of its dimensions: length 20 cm, width 5 cm. It will be necessary to make stands for knives from it.
- As knives, it is better to use a stone cutting disc.
Now you can move on to making a drill with your own hands, the drawings are optional here, but still look at the photo above, where the approximate dimensions of the tool are set. First of all, to the end of the length of the pipe, it is necessary to weld a piece of a metal plate and sharpen its end. This will be the tip of the drill. Plate dimensions: length 10 cm, width 2 cm. You can sharpen it before welding to the pipe, using a grinder or grinder, putting a grinding wheel on it. It would be ideal if the plate is inserted inside the pipe and scalded along the diameter of the latter. Two or three centimeters of protrusion will be sufficient. But it's a solid mount.
Next, you need to make primary knives, they are installed after the tip. Their purpose is to loosen the soil before the work of the main knives. They can be made from the same metal plate by cutting two strips 8 cm long and 3 cm wide. They just need to be welded to the pipe on both sides of it, as shown in the photo above.
Attention! Primary knives are installed on the pipe with a slight deviation. This sets the angle that will allow you to easily cut into the ground. The angle of inclination is chosen arbitrarily, but not more than 45°. The edges of the knives must be sharpened.
Now you need to weld the shelves for attaching the main knives. They are made from the same plate. First, they need to drill holes for fasteners (M6 bolts). There may be two or three holes. Please note that the shelves must also be installed at an angle of approximately 20°.
As mentioned above, the main knives can be made from an old disk that was used to cut stone. You just need to cut it in half with a grinder, make holes in the halves for fasteners, coinciding with the holes on the shelves. Just put the knives on the shelves and make marks on the holes with a marker, then drill along the marks. A very important point is to correctly sharpen the edge of the main and primary knives. Its tip should be directed towards the ground.
The last step is to weld the handle to the bar. So that the handle does not fall off the mount during the operation of the garden drill (loads can be significant), it is recommended to weld two scarves on the sides, all from the same metal plate. The manual garden drill is ready, you can use it. By the way, this design was with removable knives. You can make a do-it-yourself tool with a certain diameter of digging the soil. It's just that the knives are welded to the shelves, and not mounted on bolts.
- To prevent the threads of the bolts on the drill from becoming clogged with earth, which will make it difficult to change knives later, you can install PVC hose protection on the threads or purchase electric tubes.
- To know how deep the well is being dug, it is necessary, starting from the installation site of the main knives every 10 cm, to make marks with a needle file, which are then marked with numbers using paint. Convenient and practical. By the way, it makes no sense to paint the garden drill itself, the paint on it will not last long when working in the ground.
- You can assemble such a drill with your own hands from improvised materials in one hour. In addition, it will not differ in its qualities from the factory ones, especially since it turns out a design with removable knives, which increases the functionality of the tool.
- After all the welding work carried out, it is necessary to knock down the scale and grind the welding seams with a grinder. The handle must be sanded with sandpaper so that its edges are even and do not hurt your hands.
Working with a homemade drill is sometimes difficult. This is especially true of solid soil, in which plant roots are found in large numbers. In this scenario, a hand drill can lead to the side. Therefore, before starting drilling, you need to loosen the drilling site with a shovel and try to cut off the roots to the length of the bayonet.
A hand drill for the earth is often required when arranging a site or building a summer house. The tool is simply indispensable if you need to drill holes for fence posts, for a gazebo, installing arches or other agricultural work. The drill is manual and automatic.
Build your own hand drill
Varieties of Boers
Different types of drills are used for different construction works. . Each of them has a special design:
- Auger drill. Its peculiarity lies in the elongated cutting part. It is used for making holes for poles. Since the design is longer, it can be taken out much less often, so the work is done faster when compared with a garden auger.
- Garden. As a rule, these are 2 blades welded to opposite sides of the pipe. They are placed at different angles. Basically, the drill is used to make holes for planting. Hence the specific name "garden". But it can also be used when building gazebos, installing fence posts, etc.
- For TISE piles. It is somewhat reminiscent of a garden one, but additionally has a spatula that leans back at the bottom of the pit for expansion.
The easiest to make are garden twirls. The design may have varieties, depending on the soil with which this tool will work. This is the advantage of a self-made tool. It can be made according to your needs. The point is not even in the diameter of the blades themselves, but in the fact that they can be made removable, bolted, etc.
In this video, consider a homemade earthen drill:
Although the price of the simplest drills in stores is low, such tools position themselves as "universal". For light soil, they will be useful, but on harder soil they are ineffective.
Self-production
Even without the practice of manufacturing such structures, it will not be difficult to make a garden and hand drill for the earth with your own hands. This is the simplest, but at the same time effective model.
Garden drill elements:
- Cutting part. As a rule, these are two blades in the shape of a semicircle, which are sharpened along the edges. One blade is fixed at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The second, on the opposite side, also has an angle of inclination of 20-30 degrees, but in the other direction. For ease of use, the cutting parts can not be welded to the pipe, but bolted. Also, the design will be disassembled. If desired, you can make several pairs of blades with different diameters.
- Rod (pipe). It can be either round or profiled. Alternatively, you can use a crowbar, but it is heavy and difficult to work with. The length of the rod must be made 40-50 cm more than the required depth of the pit. If at the same time the length of the pipe is more than one and a half meters, then it will be more convenient to make a collapsible structure. This can be done from two parts of the pipe. One part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the second. The design will be reminiscent of fishing spinning (telescopic connection).
- A pen. For this element, a transverse pipe is often welded on top of the structure. The length of such a handle is from 40 to 60 cm.
- Tip-drill. It is located on the pipe and is a continuation of the structure under the blades. Responsible for centering the drill at the initial stages - the first loosens the ground, which facilitates the work process.
This is the basic equipment of a manual earthen drill. You can attach various gadgets to it.
Necessary materials
The pipe is the basis of the structure. The diameter should not exceed 5 cm. If you use a profiled pipe, then its cross section should be 20x20 or 30x30 cm.
Knives-blades can be made from various materials using:
- steel sheets 4 mm;
- cutting disc from a saw of the desired diameter.
The last option is more convenient and practical for production, since the cutting part is already ready. The disc must be cut in the middle and attached to the pipe. The side parts are also better to sharpen. So, the disc will cut the ground better when drilling.
The tip can be made in different shapes. You can simply sharpen a metal rod and attach it to a pipe or make a spear-shaped tip from a strip of steel. And you can combine both options.
Blade attachment
First you need to decide on the type of attachment of the blades - removable or welded "tightly". If the drill is collapsible, then small metal shelves are welded on both sides of the pipe from below. They need to drill 2-3 holes for the bolts. They should be welded to the pipe at an angle of 20-30 degrees, each in its own direction, just like cutting blades.
In addition, the holes made in the shelves must be duplicated in the blades. Their diameter must be at least 10 mm. In the blades in the center, you will have to cut holes for the pipe. This must be done both when bolting, and with a monolithic version. If a saw blade is used, then there is already such a hole. It only needs to be adjusted to the diameter of the rod.
Use of sheet steel
To make a drill with your own hands using sheet steel, it is enough to cut a paper template under the blades, and a metal circle along it. A hole is drilled in the center into which the rod is inserted. Two parts are fastened by welding or bolts, depending on the chosen design.
The hole diameter should be slightly larger than the pipe diameter. It can be either round or square, if profiled is used. A spiral can be made in two ways - cut a circle from the edge to the center and unbend it in different directions (one up and the second down) or make a drill from two halves.
In the latter case, the metal circle is cut in half after making a hole and then fastened to the rod according to the chosen design model. In both the first and second versions, it is necessary to bend the edges at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier the work process will be. But with a large angle of inclination, the drilling process is much faster.
On hard ground, the blades can deform under heavy load. Therefore, to strengthen the tool, thick steel supports are welded. The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened. It is difficult to find a sheet of hardened steel, but even if there is such a material, it is unlikely that it will be possible to bend it at the right angle.
Use an old saw blade to create a drill
Saw blade construction
Using an old saw blade to make a simple hand drill for earthmoving is almost ideal. It is made of hardened steel, and it is strong, sharp and resilient. But it is impossible to straighten hardened steel, since it can crack at the slightest deformation. In this case, the disk is cut in half and attached to the rod at the desired angle using welding or bolts. If you use bolts for fastening, then you must first weld the shelves for fastening parts of the disk from the saw.
Such structures are characterized by high performance and durability. In order for the drill to be even sharper, the edges (cut off side) are also sharpened. The semi-circular sides already have a good sharpening, which over time becomes sharper and more efficient when working.
garden drill modifications
For harder soils, a garden drill is useless. Therefore, the design can be modified. To do this, it is necessary to install several rows of cutting parts on the rod. Immediately after the tip, a blade of the smallest diameter is installed. Stepping back a few centimeters to the side, larger blades are mounted. There can be no more than 4 such rows. The diameter of the largest blade should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work.
If you need to make a do-it-yourself drill for poles, then this is ideal. The design is very light and easy to work with.
If it is necessary to make a hole under the pillars of small diameter, then the work looks something like this: make a few turns with a drill, pull it out and throw out the earth stuck between the blades. But if you need to make deep holes, then in this way the work will take a long and hard time. Therefore, a container for collecting soil is welded on top of the structure. If you can’t come up with modifications on your own, then you can use the drawings.
Screw structures
Working with an auger drill is much more difficult than with a garden drill. This is due to the large number of turns, which have serious resistance. . But, as a rule, screws are used together with electric drives. and no manual drilling is required. Often they make wells of great depth, etc.
In order to make an auger drill, it is necessary to prepare several disks of the same diameter. The number of discs corresponds to the number of turns of the screw. You also need to make holes in the disks for the rod.
The disks are cut from the center to the edge, a spiral is made from each part, pulling one end up and the other down. Each part is welded to the pipe in turn. And also it is necessary to weld the round parts together.
Piling drill
The classic version of the drill for TISE is blades with a container for collecting earth. There is also a wider knife, which is necessary to form an expansion at the bottom of the pile. It is not very convenient to use such a home-made drill for personal purposes, since an additional folding knife interferes greatly.
In this regard, such structures are often made collapsible, where the folding knife can be dismantled. In general, it is recommended to use an ordinary garden drill for making piles for personal purposes, and for expansion, make a separate knife with a container for collecting earth. The job is much easier in this case.
For this design, a cut from a shovel is used as a knife., and a container for collecting land can be made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed on the levers, and when lowered along the pile, it is in the extreme upper position, as it is stretched with a cable. When the bottom is reached, the cable relaxes and the knife falls on the pile walls, starting to remove the earth and form an extension of the desired size.
As an alternative, a dredger can also be made from an old propane tank. In order to reduce friction, the well is constantly poured with water. You can work with such a tool on hard ground.
Alternative options for rotaries
In order to plant vegetation, it makes no sense to make a complex structure, even the simplest garden drill. To do this, you can use a modernized shovel. It is necessary to prepare a stainless steel shovel and mark it for further modification.
A slit of 5-8 cm is made from the bottom and in the center of the shovel. Each edge is folded in the opposite direction to each other. The sides of the shovel are also slightly bent, being a logical continuation of the lower blades.
If the ground is soft, then the usual rotation will be ineffective. For this, a mechanism with an elongated cutting part is used. It resembles a kind of glass with longitudinal slots in which hardened steel blades are fixed.
Making a hand drill for earthworks for personal use is easy. You just need to be able to use welding, a drill and other everyday construction tools of many summer residents, as well as a little understanding of the drawings.