You bought a digital camera and brought it home. But the joy is overshadowed by the fact that the device does not work or the pictures are of poor quality. You should not immediately run to the store and make a scandal. Take it easy and carefully read the instructions that come with each camera.
If the equipment shows no signs of life, first of all charge the battery. Then make sure the camera is turned on and the memory card is in place. This will be indicated by the indicators on the liquid crystal display or in the viewfinder. What each symbol means is described in the user manual.
Now how to set up. A camera of any manufacturer provides an automatic shooting mode. Each firm has its own name, but in most cases it is the letter A (auto). Many people call this option smart shooting. How to set up the camera for shooting in automatic mode is described at the beginning of the user manual.
Having set the camera to automatic mode, it is advisable to immediately tell the camera that the images must be saved to the memory card. The menu should also set the size of the images. It is desirable that they be no lower than 1915x1285. This is the optimal size 10x15 and 13x18 cm. The larger the size, the better the picture. How to set the camera to a specific image size is usually indicated in the manual, but you can find it through the menu button. Typically, image parameters come first in the list.
So now you know how to set up your digital camera. But shooting on "full automatic" will not give the expected results if you rush
be. Technique in this mode needs time to assess the situation and self-adjust. Therefore, after choosing a frame, fix the camera in your hands, then exhale and smoothly press the shutter button, but not completely. By holding the button in this position for a few seconds, you enable the camera to take the necessary measurements. In just two seconds, the subject will appear sharper on the LCD monitor or in the viewfinder, and the picture may fade. Don't let that scare you. This is how the device signals that it has tuned in to the conditions for placing and lighting the object. Now you can smoothly press the button to the end.
If you are not satisfied with the quality of images in automatic mode, you can use scripts. Once you have a clue of what scenarios are, you can easily learn how to set up a camera from any other manufacturer's camera.
Scenarios are optimal settings for certain situations. Since these situations are usually standard, it is easy to guess from the pictograms (pictures) what they are talking about and understand how to set up the camera. The graphical symbols of the preset scenarios are shown in the figure.
This guide has given advice to novice amateur photographers on setting up their cameras. Higher image quality requires experience and careful study of the model-specific user manual.
If you bought a camera that is more serious than a regular soap dish, then most likely you will want to master manual settings (although they are also available on soap dishes). And I would even advise you to do it as soon as possible, so that even if you shoot in automatic mode, you will understand what is happening.
The main parameters on the camera that you will control are few, but they are all closely interconnected: shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance. There is also such a parameter as depth of field (depth of field), which itself is not set in any way, but it turns out due to other parameters. I'm afraid for the first reading all this will seem too complicated and scary, but here I can only advise you how to try as much as possible at first. Shoot the same shot with different settings and then see what happens, look for relationships, analyze. And do not forget about the instructions for the camera, this is practically a reference book at first.
The main settings for a digital camera are shutter speed and aperture, their ratio is called exposure. Therefore, when they say you need to choose an exposure, they mean you need to set these two values.
Excerpt
Changes in seconds (1/4000, 1/125, 1/13, 1, 10, etc.) and means the time for which the camera shutter opens when the shutter is released. It is logical that the longer it is open, the more light will enter the matrix. Therefore, depending on the time of day, the sun, the level of illumination, there will be its own exposure parameter. If you use automatic mode, the camera will measure the light level and select the value itself.
But not only the exposure is affected by the exposure, but also the blur of a moving object. The faster it moves, the shorter the shutter speed should be. Although in some cases, on the contrary, you can make it more authentic in order to get an "artistic" lubrication. Likewise, lubrication can come from shaking your hands (shaking), so you should always choose such a value to neutralize this problem, well, and train so that shaking is less. A good stabilizer on the lens can still help you with this, it allows you to use longer shutter speeds and prevents wiggle.
Exposure selection rules:
- To prevent hand shake blur, always try to set your shutter speed no faster than 1 / mm, where mm is the millimeter of your current focal length. Because the larger the focal point, the more likely it is to blur, and the more you need to shorten the shutter speed. For example, the cut-off value for 50 mm will be the shutter speed of 1/50, and it would be even better to set it even shorter, somewhere around 1/80, to be sure.
- If you are shooting a person walking, the shutter speed should be no longer than 1/100.
- For moving children, it is better to set the shutter speed no slower than 1/200.
- Very fast subjects (for example, when shooting from a bus window) require very fast shutter speeds of 1/500 or less.
- In the dark, to shoot static objects, it is better not to raise the ISO too much (especially above the working value), but use long exposures (1s, 2s, etc.) and a tripod.
- In case you want to shoot beautifully flowing water (with lubrication), then you need 2-3 seconds of exposure (I don't like what happens longer). And if you need splashes and sharpness, then 1/500 - 1/1000.
The values \u200b\u200bare all taken from the head and do not pretend to be axioms, it is best to independently select them based on personal experience, so this is just a guide.
Shutter speed 1/80 is too long for such movements, it is blurry
Exposure 3 sec - water like milk
Diaphragm
Indicated as f22, f10, f5.6, f1.4 and means how open the lens aperture is when the shutter is released. Moreover, the lower the number, the larger the hole diameter, that is, as it were, the opposite. It is logical that the larger this hole, the more light enters the matrix. In automatic mode, the camera itself selects this value according to the program embedded in it.
The aperture also affects the depth of field (depth of field):
- If you are shooting a landscape during the day, then feel free to cover the aperture to f8-f13 (no longer worth it) so that everything is sharp. In the dark, in the absence of a tripod, on the contrary, you will have to open it and raise the ISO.
- If you are shooting a portrait and want the most blurry background, then you can open the aperture to the maximum, but keep in mind that if your lens is fast, then the f1.2-f1.8 values \u200b\u200bmay be too many and only the person's nose will be in focus, and the rest of the face blurred.
- There is a dependence of depth of field on aperture and focal length, so in order for the main subject to be sharp, it makes sense to use f3-f7 values, increasing it depending on the increase in focal length.
Aperture f9 - everything is sharp
105mm, f5.6 - the background is very blurry
ISO sensitivity
It is designated ISO 100, ISO 400, ISO 1200, etc. If you were shooting on film, remember that films were sold with different sensitivities, which meant the film's sensitivity to light. The same is for a digital camera, you can set the sensor's light sensitivity. In practice, this means that your frame will be brighter as the ISO increases, with the same shutter speed and aperture settings (at the same exposure).
A feature of good and expensive cameras is a higher working ISO, reaching up to 12800. Now this figure does not tell you anything, but it's really cool. Because at ISO 100, you can only shoot in daylight, and setting 1200 and higher is already not a hindrance to twilight. Budget DSLRs have a maximum working ISO of about 400-800. Next comes color noise. Pull the ISO all the way up and take a shot at dusk and you'll know what this is about. Soap dishes with this parameter are really bad.
ISO 12800 - noticeable noise, but it can be partially removed during processing
ISO 800 with the same settings, the photo is much darker
White balance
Surely you have seen photos where there is too much yellowness or blue? This one is just because of the wrong white balance. The fact is that depending on the light source (sun, incandescent lamp, white light lamp, etc.), the color spectrum of the photo depends. Roughly speaking, imagine that we will shine a special blue lamp on the chair and then the whole photo of this chair will be cyanotic. If this is a special artistic effect, then everything is fine, but if we want normal shades, then setting the white balance will save us. All cameras have presets (automatic, sun, cloudy, incandescent, manual, etc.).
To my shame I must admit that I always shoot with the machine. It's easier for me to correct everything in the program later than to set the white balance. Perhaps someone will consider it blasphemy, but everything suits me, and I think most will also suit, so I will not talk about manual white balance.
Focus point selection
As a rule, all good cameras have the ability to select a focus point, as well as their automatic selection (when the camera itself selects objects and decides on what to focus on and how). I rarely use the automatic mode, mainly when there is little time and objects are moving, for example, in a crowd of people, when there is no time for thought. In all other cases, I use the center point. I pressed the button, focused without releasing the button, took it aside, and pushed it to the end, having made a shot.
The center point is usually the most accurate, which is why it should be used. But it is necessary to look at a specific model of the camera, for example, now all points are working on my current camera. I also wanted to say that if your camera dulls and focuses poorly (twilight, backlight), then you need to look for the border of light and dark and focus on it.
Depth of field DOF
Depth of field is the range of distances in which all objects will be sharp. Let's imagine that you are photographing a person and there is a straight line: camera - person - background. The focus point is on the person, then everything will be sharply in the range from this person to you for a certain number of meters and from this person towards the background also for a certain number of meters. This range is the depth of field. In each case it will be different, because it depends on several parameters: aperture, focal length, distance to the object, and on your camera model. There are special calculators of depth of field, where you can enter your values \u200b\u200band find out what distance you get. For landscapes, you need a large depth of field to be sharp in general, and for portraits or highlighting objects by blurring the background, a shallow depth of field.
You can play around with the calculator to understand a little the relationship of these parameters. But in the field you will not have it at hand, therefore, if you are not a professional photographer, then it will be enough to remember some values \u200b\u200bconvenient for you, and also every time to look on the display (zooming in on the photo), what did you get and whether you need take a photo.
First of all, you need to remember that:
- The more the aperture is open, the shallower the depth of field.
- The longer the focal length, the shallower the depth of field.
- The closer the subject, the shallower the depth of field.
That is, when shooting from close range, for example, a person's face at 100 mm and an aperture of 2.8, you risk getting only a sharp nose, while the rest will be blurry.
73mm, f5.6, shot as close as possible, so only finger is in focus
You will need to experience empirically this "triple" dependence of the depth of field on the focal length, aperture and distance for the subject. For instance:
- When photographing a landscape or other subject at a wide angle, you can always use f8-f13 and everything will be sharp. In fact, the calculator says that you can open the aperture much wider, but I like these values. As a rule, I always bet f10 (during the day).
- For a beautiful blurred background, you do not need to have an expensive high-aperture lens with which you can greatly open the aperture, a normal zoom with a standard aperture is enough, you just need to move away and zoom in on a person (for example, 100 mm) and then even f5.6 is enough for you to blur the background.
- The distance from the subject of photography to the background plays a role. If they are very close, then it may not work normally to blur the background, you will have to use a long focal length and a very open aperture. But if the background is very far away, then it will almost always turn out to be blurry.
- If you are photographing a flower at close range, and for some reason you need to sharpen the mountains on the horizon, then you will have to clamp the aperture down to f22 or more. However, in this case, there is a chance to get still a not sharp image due to other features.
Alternatively, you can just remember a couple of things. We shoot landscapes and similar plans at f10, people and select objects at f2.5 (50 mm) or f5.6 (105 mm).
The relationship of shutter speed, aperture, ISO and semi-automatic modes
We got to the most difficult part, to the interconnection of all these parameters. I'll try to explain what's what, but you still can't do without trial. First of all, I would like to advise you to use at the very beginning not a full manual mode (called M), but semi-automatic (Av and Tv for Canon, or A and S for Nikon), because it is much easier to think about one parameter, and not two at once ...
So, I have already cited some relationships just above. And if it is rather difficult to understand the depth of field at first, then it will be easier to choose the shutter speed and aperture without reference to the depth of field. It all boils down to keeping your frame moderately light / dark, because even if you shoot in RAW, it's not a fact that you will be able to stretch the photo if the values \u200b\u200bare too wrong. And that's why I am in favor of semi-automatic modes.
Aperture priority (Av or A)
Let's say you are photographing a landscape in Av mode and your focal point is 24mm. Set f10, and the camera selects the shutter speed for you. And all you have to do is to track that it is no longer than the critical value of 1 / mm (I wrote about this above in the Excerpt paragraph). What to do next?
- If the shutter speed is shorter than 1/24, for example 1/30 or 1/50, then everything is fine.
- If the shutter speed is slower than 1/24, you will need to set a higher ISO.
- Further, if the ISO is not enough, then you can start opening the aperture. In principle, you can initially immediately open it at f5.6-f8, and then raise the ISO.
- If you have already set the maximum working ISO and there is nowhere to open the aperture, then either "put your hands on your sides" to somehow reduce the shake, or look for a surface where you can put or press the carcass, or get a tripod. Alternatively, you can raise the ISO even higher, but then the photo will make a lot of noise.
Shutter Priority (Tv or S)
Moving objects or people are best shot in Tv mode to avoid blurring the subject. Naturally, the shorter the shutter speed, the better, but if there is little light, then you can focus on the values \u200b\u200bthat I gave in the paragraph on shutter speed. That is, we set the shutter speed and control which aperture the camera will choose. It is better that it is not fully open, especially with fast lenses. If there is not enough light, then we also increase the ISO, if it is still not enough, then we try to lengthen the shutter speed.
ISO 1600 f2.8 1/50 sec - parameters at the limit, because it is dark and moving
Exposure compensation
Av and Tv are also convenient for this. Since the camera measures the exposure using the focus point, and it may be in the shade, or, on the contrary, it is too illuminated, the selected aperture or shutter speed may not correspond to the required ones. And the easiest way to correct them is by using exposure correction, just turn the wheel 1-3 steps in the right direction and that's it, that is, if you need to make the whole frame darker, then negatively, if lighter, then positively. In low light, I always immediately shoot at -2/3 minus in order to have a greater margin of settings.
P.S. I hope the article was not too difficult and readable. There are many nuances, but it is difficult to place them here, given that I myself do not know many things. If you find an error, write in the comments.
Manual mode of camera settings (Mode M) often causes awe and slight panic in a novice photographer: o)
Indeed, if in automatic and even in semi-automatic modes of adjustment your camera itself selects the correct exposure pair the photos are more or less normal, then in mode M ( from the English word Manual - manual) the photographer is responsible for everything ... And if the photographer still does not have enough experience, then often: o (
But if you do not try to photograph in manual mode M, then there will be no experience anywhere! - is not it? Meanwhile, the manual mode of setting the camera does not present any difficulty!
How to set up the camera in manual mode M
When photographing in M \u200b\u200bmode, however, as in any other semi-automatic or automatic camera setting mode, the photographer (or camera) must set only three parameters to obtain a normally exposed frame.
Yes, yes, in order to get a technically high-quality picture of all the functions and "bells and whistles" of your camera, it is enough to set only three correctly! Together, these parameters are often referred to as "THREE KITA EXPOSITION"
Some "experienced" photographers advise a beginner in photography to set the automatic mode, and then copy the camera settings in M \u200b\u200bmode.
Never do that - your settings in manual mode will be no different from automatic ones! In this case, the whole point of studying the manual mode of adjusting the camera is lost.
With a creative approach, the M mode allows you to get not only a technically high-quality picture, but also add various effects to your photos: and all this by changing only three parameters in the camera settings!
If you have not yet guessed what parameters we are talking about, then I open all the cards for you: "three whales of photography" are
But if in digital photography everything rests on these parameters, then why then are novice photographers so afraid of photography in M \u200b\u200bmode ( M is the first letter of the English word Manual - manual)
Error in camera settings in M \u200b\u200bmode
The difficulty of setting up a camera in manual mode is that a novice photographer immediately tries to grasp all three shooting parameters. And shutter speed, and aperture, and sensor sensitivity. In addition, here we get a problem with three unknowns, which can cause not only mild panic, but also complete confusion: o) for a novice photographer ...
In fact, if you do everything in order, then this manual mode M is not so terrible: o)
How right
In order to properly adjust the camera in manual shooting mode, the photographer must decide whether he will use or effects. Only then can you start setting up the camera in M \u200b\u200bmode.
How to adjust the camera in manual mode, taking into account dynamic effects
If you intend to use dynamic effects, then first you need to set an approximate shutter speed. For example, in order to "freeze" a motion, in most cases a shutter speed of 1 / 250-1 / 500 sec is sufficient. If it is supposed to blur a moving subject or background when shooting with wiring - who have already read know what we are talking about - set the shutter speed longer, approximately 1 / 30-1 / 60 sec.
The next step is to choose a paired aperture value for the selected shutter speed. What does double mean? This means that, depending on the illumination of the object being shot, you need to set such an aperture in order to get
If you are photographing with a digital camera in M \u200b\u200bmode, then everything is very simple - go through the aperture value until the exposure indicator shows 0 (zero), for example, as shown in the illustrations below. For clarity, in the optical viewfinder and on the LCD indicator of the SLR camera, the exposure indicator is circled in a red oval.
exposure indicator on the optional lcd screen of the DSLR
exposure indicator in the camera's SLR viewfinder
0 exposure indicator in the mirror viewfinder
(increased)
exposure indicator on the main lcd screen of the DSLR
exposure indicator on the DSLR's optional LCD screen
enlarge-click the picture
In different digital cameras, the zero of the exposure meter may look different.
In some cameras it is a scale with divisions and a movable index. Zero will be when the movable index, often in the form of an arrow, stops in the middle of the exposure meter indicator scale.
In simpler models, the exposure indication can be displayed without a scale, just numbers with a plus [+] or minus [-] sign, and the numbers show how much exposure steps (and fractions of steps) the parameters you have selected differ from what the camera would set in automatic mode ... In this case, the plus or minus sign shows which direction you have deviated: minus - towards overexposure, and plus - towards underexposure.
How to adjust the camera in manual M mode, taking into account the depth of field
If the subject you are shooting is slow-moving and you are not going to use dynamic effects (i.e. the exposure time will not greatly affect your idea), then first you should think about what kind of depth of field you want to get in the picture.
Since depth of field, first of all, in this case, setting the camera in manual mode should be started with If you need a blurred background, open the aperture and, conversely, if you need to increase the depth of field (i.e. make all objects in the frame as sharp as possible), then we close the diaphragm.
After you have set the desired aperture, looking at the exposure indicator, you cycle through the shutter speed and stop when the indicator shows zero. All!
Here is the procedure for setting up the camera in manual mode. Yes, I almost forgot, the exposure is also influenced (ISO - "the third whale of photography"). But with this parameter, you can do it quite simply: before setting the camera in manual mode, however, not only in manual mode, ISO is set to a minimum: the lower the ISO, the more will be in the photo. And when you set the shutter speed and aperture, the camera's exposure meter will automatically take into account the set ISO value.
If, after setting the camera in manual mode M the exposure indicator has stopped at zero (in the middle of the scale) and you don't see next to the exposure indicator flashing shutter speed or aperture value, the exposure will be normal.
If the shutter speed or aperture value blinks on the camera indicator, then you will have to change the value of the sensor sensitivity and adjust the camera in manual mode again. If you remember the lesson about and the standard series of shutter speed, aperture and ISO, then you already understand what to turn and in which direction: o)
When taking pictures in manual mode M, make it a rule
Before pressing the shutter button, look at the exposure indicator,
because when you move the camera after adjusting, the exposure meter will not take into account the change in the brightness of the scene being shot as a result
those. the exposure indicator will "walk" slightly near the zero mark.
If the exposure indicator deviates greatly from the zero mark
get ready to correct the exposure couple!
After taking each shot, do not forget to check yourself: analyze
and make the appropriate exposure adjustments!
Ah, these wonderful Canon cameras that just ask for a handle! Anyone who works by the sweat of their brow, putting aside banknotes for the coveted EOS, knows what they are doing. Canon cameras are characterized by high performance speed, enviable autofocus, high image quality and simply magical color reproduction. That is why many photographers (both beginners and old-school students) can smear their drool on the window for hours, looking at the most powerful boxes and lenses.
Since you already own a dream and are eager to learn how to manage it, we suggest you understand the brands of Canon cameras as part of our overall development.
What do the numbers and letters on your camera brand mean?
Most of the "budding photographers" who consider themselves at least Lezek Buznowski have no idea what EOS stands for. It is worth asking such a "professional" what the letter D means in the brand of his camera, so he, with an embarrassed look, quietly tries to enter Wikipedia. Well, perhaps a real talent does not need this knowledge, and only those who like to shine in the company of friends remember this, but we believe that in order to learn how to photograph, you must know Canon by heart.
- The abbreviation EOS (Electro-Optical System) is consonant with the name of the goddess of the dawn Eos, which can be found in ancient Greek mythology. The first camera in this series was the Canon EOS 650, which was released in 1987.
- The letter D in the title stands for Digital.
- Cameras with 3 or 4 digits in their names (EOS 400D, EOS 1000D) are marketed as starter cameras.
- If the name contains one or two numbers, but at the same time they do not begin with one (EOS 33V, EOS 30D), then this is a semi-professional camera.
- Canon for professionals is: EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 1D X, EOS 1D C.
Now you are sitting in front of the monitor, and in your hands, for example, a Canon 600d - how to take pictures?
How to take pictures correctly: Canon for beginners
It is known that in Auto mode the camera independently chooses the settings so that in the end a suitable exposure is obtained. But it is worth considering that if you shoot in difficult lighting, then even the coolest camera will not always be able to cope with its task. Moreover, you want to learn how to take pictures with a Canon DSLR, using all the possibilities, and not just randomly press a button and wait until you are lucky. You can take a good photo only after you master the basic settings. Only then you will intuitively figure out how to photograph at 500d, 550d, 7d, 1100d, 600d, 650d, 60d, 1000d and other "d".
There are three main settings, and all of them, in one way or another, are associated with light:
- Aperture is the size of the “hole” the camera opens that allows light to pass through. The more the aperture is open, the more light is in the picture: everything is logical here.
- Exposure is the time for which you open the access of light to the camera matrix.
- Light sensitivity (ISO) - the higher the light sensitivity, the more light the matrix receives.
Learning to set Canon settings correctly
The aperture of your camera is designated as "f /" + a number that will show how open / closed the "hole" that lets light through is. If you want a blurred background - open the aperture, if you want to get a completely clear picture - close it. The farther the aperture is opened, the smaller the number next to “f /”.
By adjusting the aperture value, you can focus on a specific object and draw the viewer's attention to the subject of your choice. Like here:
An open aperture just works amazingly in pictures with butterflies, flowers and small objects. How to photograph a portrait correctly? Open aperture Canon - it couldn't be easier. Need to visually distinguish a person from the rest? Again - Canon open aperture.
You need to close the aperture when shooting crowds, landscapes and streets, in general, wherever you need the whole picture to be in focus.
Students often ask: How to take shutter speed photography? Canon is best suited to master this setting. First, you need to decide how you want to capture the movement? After all, the longer the shutter speed, the more movement the camera will have time to capture, a short shutter speed, on the contrary, will freeze the moment.
Slow shutter speeds are used when shooting a city at night, but it is worth using a tripod. They also take such interesting photos with a long exposure:
As for the fast shutter speed, it's good for shooting falling objects.
Sensitivity is measured in ISO units with values \u200b\u200bof 100, 200, 400, and so on up to 6400. Higher values \u200b\u200bare used if shooting takes place in poor lighting, but noise (small dots) often appears in the pictures.
So, before messing around with this setting, decide:
- Do you have enough light to take a photo at the lowest ISO?
- Do you want to get a noisy shot or not? Black and white pictures with noise look pretty cool, but color pictures sometimes spoil it.
- Do you have a tripod or any other way to fix your camera? The sensitivity can be compensated for by making the shutter speed slower, but then you cannot do without a tripod.
- If your subject is constantly moving, then the ISO just needs to be raised so that the photo is not blurred.
You will have to set a high ISO in the following cases:
- Sports games, dances, indoor children's party. In general, when a short shutter speed is essential.
- Indoors where flash is prohibited.
- The moment when the birthday boy gets ready to blow out the candles on the birthday cake. A flash can spoil the cozy light and the whole mood of the moment, so just increase the sensitivity of the camera.
How to take pictures with Canon using the full power of the camera?
Daily observations show: the vast majority of SLR camera owners shoot only in Auto mode - green square. And this bleak fact makes such an expensive purchase simply meaningless. Suppose you paid about 2700 thousand rubles for your Canon 600d, but in auto-mode your camera works out only 5400, i.e. the capabilities of an excellent SLR camera are only used by 20%. Do you want to learn how to photograph with Canon 600d and other models? Do you want to use your camera one hundred percent? Then remember it, or better write it down.
Semi-automatic modes.
In this part we will discuss working with the following modes: P, A (or Av), S (or Tv), M, A-Dep. These modes are great help for newbies who don't yet know how to take pictures with their Canon, and generally don't know what they are doing. Experienced photographers also have a lot of respect for these modes for their significant time savings.
1.The simplest mode is P (Program AE). This mode will help you to get a good exposure of the frame, choose the values \u200b\u200bof the aperture and shutter speed depending on which ISO you set. This is incredibly convenient for aspiring photographers who are just experimenting with light sensitivity.
You can also change the exposure values \u200b\u200b(exposure parameters of shutter speed and aperture), for example, on a Canon 550d camera, this can be done with a slight movement of scrolling the roller. If you need to set a faster shutter speed, then simply scroll the video to the right, while the camera will slightly close the aperture, keeping the exposure at the same level. This will allow you to photograph any falling object that just freezes in the air in the picture.
2. Mode A or Av - Aperture Priority.
The whole point of this mode is that it allows you to control the strength of the background blur in the picture. You need to set the ISO value and adjust the aperture yourself, but the camera will set the required shutter speed in such a way that you end up with a good shot. Here you need to decide if you want to get a blurred background, then set the appropriate aperture value, and the rest is up to the camera. Convenient, right?
Shooting a portrait on Canon, set the ISO and fully open the aperture (the smallest number) to get a blurred background, and the camera will set the shutter speed itself.
3. S or Tv mode - shutter priority.
It works exactly the same as the previous modes: you set the ISO, and the aperture value remains on the conscience of the camera.
In order to practice using this mode, find any moving object (man, cat, car, fountain): set a fast shutter speed - this way you will get a clear photo of the object "frozen" in the frame. Now take a slower shutter speed, place the camera on any stable surface and gently press the button. most likely, you will get a beautiful "blur" that reflects the beauty of the dynamics of movement.
4.And the last mode is A-DEP (depth of field priority). By the way, it is not on all cameras. This mode allows the camera to set aperture and shutter speed so that everything in focus is sharp enough.
It is worth adding that if you have at least a little to indulge in manual settings or semi-automatic modes, then you will never return to the "green box".
If, after reading this article, you still have questions about what to do with your camera and how to photo-engrave on Canon, then our teachers will be glad to see you in their courses.
Date of publication:01.02.2017
Are you shooting in low light without a flash? Learning to photograph in P, A, S, or M modes? This means that you will surely encounter a "shake", that is, with a loss of sharpness and blurring of the picture. It occurs due to camera shake during shooting.
As a rule, when you "move" you can clearly see the direction in which the lubrication has occurred. And in the event of an error in focusing the lens - another reason for blurry shots - the subject will simply be blurred, and, most likely, the sharpness will not be where you need it. You can read about how to work with the autofocus system on the website.
The culprit of the "shake" is the incorrectly adjusted exposure. Recall that shutter speed is the period of time during which the camera shutter is open and light enters its sensor. It is measured in seconds. Any modern DSLR is capable of operating shutter speeds in the range from 1/4000 to 30 seconds. The less light, the longer (other things being equal) the shutter speed should be.
Most often, blur appears when shooting in low light. In such conditions, the automation (or the photographer himself) begins to lengthen the shutter speed in order to collect the required amount of light and get a sufficiently bright frame. The longer the shutter speed, the higher the chance of blur. Unsharp frames are often obtained at values\u003e 1/60 second. The picture starts to blur from the fact that the camera shakes a little in the hands.
How to get sharp shots and get rid of the "shake"? You need to adjust the shutter speed according to the shooting conditions.
Which shutter speed suits different scenes? Here's a tentative cheat sheet:
- standing person - from 1/60 s and shorter;
- a slow-moving, not very fast-moving person - from 1/125 s and shorter;
- a running person, athletes, frolicking children, not very fast animals - from 1/250 s and shorter;
- fast athletes, very fast animals and birds, auto and motorcycle races - 1/500 s and shorter.
With experience, the photographer begins to understand what shutter speed is needed to shoot a particular scene.
The result of shooting is influenced by external circumstances, our physiology, stress level and strength of hands. Therefore, photographers always try to play it safe and shoot at shutter speeds slightly shorter than those calculated using the formula below.
Pasha River, Leningrad Region
Nikon D810 / Nikon AF-S 35mm f / 1.4G Nikkor
How do I calculate the maximum shutter speed based on the focal length of the lens?
You've probably noticed how much the image shakes in the viewfinder when shooting with a strong zoom, at a long focal length. The longer the focal length of the lens, the higher the risk of shake and the faster the shutter speed should be. Based on this pattern, photographers have come up with a formula that helps to navigate at which shutter speed it is safe to shoot, and which threatens to blur.
The maximum shutter speed for handheld photography should be no more than 1 / (focal length x 2)
Let's say the focal length of the lens is 50 mm. According to the formula, the maximum safe shutter speed is 1 / (50x2), that is, 1/100 s. An example with a shorter focal length - 20 mm: 1 / (20x2) \u003d 1/40 s.
So, the shorter the focal length, the slower shutter speeds you can choose when shooting handheld. The opposite is true when using long lenses. Let's take a lens with a focal length of 300 mm. Such optics are often used to photograph birds and sporting events. Let's apply the formula: 1 / (300x2) \u003d 1/600 s. Such a fast shutter speed will be needed to get a sharp shot!
By the way, old-school photographers remember this formula in this form: shutter speed \u003d 1 / focal length. However, the growth of megapixels in modern cameras and the increased requirements for the technical quality of images are forcing to double the focal length in the denominator. If your camera is equipped with a small sensor (less than APS-C), you need to use in calculations not the physical focal length of the lens, but the equivalent focal length, taking into account the crop factor of the sensor.
The proposed formula will insure you against smudge caused by camera shake in your hands, but you need to take into account the speed of movement of the subject. The faster the subject, the faster the shutter speed should be.
How do I affect shutter speed in A and P modes?
Not all modes allow the photographer to directly select the shutter speed. There is a programmed mode P, where both the shutter speed and the aperture are adjusted by automatic, aperture priority mode A, where the shutter speed is controlled by it. Automation in these modes is often mistaken. Most wiggle shots are captured in mode A, where the photographer is focused on adjusting the aperture.
To avoid blur when shooting in these modes, you need to monitor the shutter speed. Its value is displayed both in the viewfinder and on the screen of the camera. If we see that the shutter speed is too slow, it's time to raise the ISO: it will shorten along with the increase in ISO. A bit of digital noise in a photo is better than just a blurry picture! It is important to find a reasonable compromise between shutter speed and ISO.
Optical stabilization
More and more modern photographic equipment is equipped with optical stabilization modules. The point of this technology is that the camera compensates for its vibrations. Usually the optical stabilization module is located in the lens (as, for example, in Nikon equipment). The presence of a stabilizer in a Nikon lens is indicated by VR (Vibration Reduction).
The OIS performance may vary depending on the lens model. Most often, modern stabilizers allow you to photograph at shutter speeds 3-4 stops slower. What does it mean? Let's say you're shooting with a 50mm lens and your safety shutter speed is 1/100 s. With a stabilized lens and if you have the knack, you can take shutter speeds of about 1/13 s.
But you shouldn't relax either. It is important to understand that the stabilizer in the lens only compensates for camera vibration. And if you are shooting people, some moving objects, the shutter speed should still be fast enough. For a beginner photographer, a stabilizer is a good insurance against accidental shake and camera shake. But it cannot replace either a tripod or fast shutter speeds when shooting motion.
The lens is equipped with optical stabilization. This is indicated by the abbreviation VR in the labeling.
How to use long exposures and avoid shake?
Sometimes long exposures are necessary. Let's say you want to shoot a still subject in low light: landscape, interior, still life. Raising the ISO in this case is not the best solution. High sensitivity will only add digital noise to the picture and worsen the image quality. In such cases, photographers use a tripod, which allows the camera to be securely fixed.
If you want to develop in the direction of shooting subjects, food photography, landscape or interior photography, a tripod is a must for you. In amateur experiments, it can be replaced with a support: a stool, a chair, a curb, a step, a parapet, etc. The main thing is to securely install the camera on a support and not hold on to it during shooting (otherwise it will tremble, the frame will be smeared). If you are afraid that the camera will fall, use the strap to hold it. In order not to shake the camera at the moment you press the shutter button, set the device to trigger the timer.
But remember: all moving objects will be blurred when shooting at slow shutter speeds. Therefore, it makes no sense to shoot portraits with a tripod at long exposure. But it can be used as an artistic technique!
Long exposure shooting with a tripod. The city and the mountains are harsh, and the fishing boat washed out as it swayed on the waves.
Nikon D810 / Nikon 70-200mm f / 4G ED AF-S VR Nikkor
How to insure yourself against blurry shots? Practical advice
- Always watch your enduranceespecially when shooting in low light. In such conditions, the automation will most often set too long values.
