- an extremely responsible business, requiring certain knowledge and experience in performing such work. Therefore, such large-scale events are most often entrusted to electricians. But some problems that arise, for example, when carrying out cosmetic repairs or simply during the operation of an electrical facility, can be solved on our own. These available operations include connecting stationary lighting fixtures, installing new ones or replacing broken outlets and switches.
In this publication, we will focus on sockets - we have to deal with them most often. The saturation of everyday life with useful electrical appliances is constantly growing, and new equipment often requires new connection points. In addition, any socket is not eternal, it is designed for a certain number of plug connections. And sooner or later it develops its resource, begins to spark, loosen up, and sometimes completely crumbles to dust. And just when carrying out cosmetic repairs, the owners often want to replace all the sockets and switches with new ones that are most suitable for the style of the chosen finish.
So, he is considering the question of how to connect the outlet yourself, without calling the wizard.
Briefly - about the types and arrangement of sockets
For a person who will undertake the installation of an outlet for the first time, it would be logical to first understand how it works. Its structure is not particularly complex, but nevertheless.
Consider the diagram. True, it does not reflect the entire variety of designs of modern sockets, but the principle of the device is approximately the same.
The main role is played by the case (item 1), in which the contact groups and terminals are assembled, as well as devices for fixing the socket in the socket of the socket or directly on the wall surface. The body is made of a dielectric material - most often it is plastic, but it can also be ceramic. Sockets with ceramic bodies are somewhat more expensive and are considered to be of higher quality. However, they require careful handling during installation - if you accidentally drop the socket or, for example, overtighten the fastening screws, then the case may break and cannot be restored.
On the front side, the socket is closed with a plastic cover (item 2). The lid has a shaped groove with holes-sockets, where the pin contacts of the plug enter. The lid can be one-piece or collapsible - it often has an additional decorative frame (item 3). With proper installation, this frame will be firmly pressed against the wall and completely cover the installation site of the outlet. The cover is fastened to the body with a screw (pos. 4). There may be several screws - for example, on double or triple sockets. As a rule, the screws from the inside are equipped with a simple stopper, so that in the unscrewed position they do not fall out of their seats.
The contact group is located in the housing. Since we will consider only single-phase 220 V sockets, there are two such contacts - for connecting zero and phase (pos. 5). The most commonly used spade (plate) contacts. Spring-loaded ones are considered more reliable for switching and durable, but they are now rarely found on sale.
To connect to the contacts of the wiring suitable for the socket, each of them is equipped with a terminal (pos. 6). There are many types of terminals, but they can be conditionally divided into two categories.
- In one (predominant) conductor fixation is ensured by tightening the screw. The screw head in different socket models, by the way, can be located in different ways - from the back, from the front, from the side or from the top-bottom.
Many sockets at night are equipped with additional contacts for connection to the ground loop. Most often in our area there are models with two grounding curved petal contacts, located respectively at the top and bottom (pos. 7). The metal plate of this PE contact also has its own terminal (pos. 8) for connecting the wire.
For fixing the socket in the socket box, two variants of clamps can be used simultaneously or separately.
- Firstly, these are special retaining feet with pointed toothed edges (pos. 9). Each such foot is equipped with a screw (pos. 10), when tightened, it moves to the side and firmly rests against the body of the socket.
- Secondly, most modern socket outlets also provide for fastening the socket with a screw (self-tapping screw). For these fasteners, there are special lugs (pos. 11) of a characteristic arched shape - this makes it possible to slightly correct the position of the socket.
By the way, the above was shown, perhaps, and not the most typical example of an outlet. The overwhelming majority of modern models are also equipped with a metal support (pos. 12) - a special plate that greatly simplifies the installation process.
When installing, this support perfectly rests against the plane of the wall, that is, it is impossible to make a mistake with the depth of the socket housing. The plate itself will then be completely hidden by the decorative cover.
The support always provides the previously mentioned lugs for screwing to the socket. In addition, there may also be holes in the corners (pos. 13). They are very useful when the socket is installed on a rigid base without a socket at all. For example - on a wall lined with clapboard or other panels, provided that there is a small space under the finish, sufficient in depth for the socket housing. In this case, a window of the required size is simply cut out, and the socket itself is attached to the finish surface through a support with four self-tapping screws. It couldn't be easier!
As mentioned above, sockets can be single, and even triple, that is, designed to connect several electrical appliances at once. Another approach is when several single sockets connected in parallel are installed for these purposes.
A few words on the types of outlets.
- In the recent past, type "C" prevailed - only two contacts, zero and phase. It is still widely used today - it is quite suitable for electrical appliances of small and medium power that do not require mandatory grounding.
This type, by the way, is also not homogeneous. Surely, many have come across that such sockets of the old "Soviet" type do not include the plugs of many electrical appliances, since the pins have a larger diameter than the holes. However, now, as it seems, the "Soviet" type is no longer on sale, so the problem becomes insignificant.
- Type "F" has the same two sockets for the prongs of the plug, but is also equipped with contacts for grounding. It was this type that was shown in the diagram when the outlet was considered.
Such sockets dominate in our time, since a person's life is more and more saturated with a variety of equipment, for the safe operation of which grounding is necessary. However, such an outlet allows you to connect other electrical appliances without any problems. Except, perhaps, only for old forks with a round, not having curly cutouts on the body rim.
- It is permissible in our conditions to install sockets of type "E". The sockets for phase and zero do not differ from type "F", but the ground contact has the shape of a protruding pin.
Such sockets are not particularly popular with us. But if you pay attention to the design of the plugs of most modern electrical appliances, you will notice that it is suitable for both types, "F" and "E" - a special hole with a contact is provided for the entry of the pin. But another plug will clearly not fit, that is, the socket does not differ in universality. In addition, the rotation of the plug in the outlet by 180 degrees is completely excluded, and this sometimes becomes useful during the use of electrical appliances.
Of course, there are many more types of outlets. Here, only three were singled out, since they are used most often in Russian conditions.
The sockets also differ in the degree (class) of protection of the case. This indicator is indicated by an IP index and a two-digit number. The first number indicates the class of protection against the penetration of solids and dust, the second - about the protection against water.
- For ordinary premises of a house or apartment, the IP22 or IP33 class is quite sufficient. If the outlet is planned to be installed in a children's room, then it is better to purchase a model with a class of at least IP43. A feature of such products is the presence of a cover and special shutters that overlap the sockets for the plug pins when the socket is not in use. This will make it difficult for a curious young "researcher" to access current-carrying contacts.
- But for bathrooms, showers, kitchens, models with a class of at least IP44 are purchased - here the humidity is also high, and there is a very high probability of splashing water on the outlet.
- The IP44 class is also suitable for installation in an unheated basement room.
- An even higher class is needed if the outlet needs to be installed on the street or, for example, on an open balcony. This takes into account both dust exposure and direct precipitation. So, for safety reasons, it is recommended to use models with a protection class of at least IP55.
Now that the general concepts of the design and types of sockets have been obtained, you can refer to the schematic diagrams of their connection.
Diagrams for connecting outlets to the electrical network
Outlet connection diagrams are not particularly complicated. But it is still necessary to consider them.
First - a diagram of connecting the sockets to a single-phase network, which does not provide a ground loop.
On the diagram, digital designations show:
1 - common safety paired machine.
2 - a circuit breaker that turns off the phase on the line to which the sockets will be connected.
3 - zero bus.
4 - distribution switch boxes. According to the rules for laying the wiring in the house, they must be located exactly above the outlets so that the vertical outlet section descends downward. Each outlet (or block of multiple outlets) must have its own junction box.
5 - conditionally shows a cable of hidden or open wiring.
Find out from our new article on our portal.
Please note that in accordance with the rules followed by professional electricians, it is customary to place the phase on the outlet on the left, zero on the right. Unfortunately, not everyone does this. Although such an installation greatly simplifies both the operation of some devices (those where the mandatory position of the phase and zero is fundamentally required), and the diagnosis and repair and maintenance work if there are problems in the network.
And where is it better to install the sockets?
This publication is devoted specifically to the connection of outlets, and not to planning their location and the rules of wiring. These questions are so important that a separate article is given to them on our portal. In it, by the way, a lot of attention is paid to the peculiarities of placing sockets in the kitchen, where the maximum "concentration" of large household appliances is usually observed.
The second scheme is also single sockets, but already "F" type, connected to the grounding circuit.
6 - bus for connecting grounding (PE) wires. They are shown in green in the diagram.
However, another version of the connection is also possible, often used, for example, in utility rooms, especially with an open type of wiring. In this case, the ground loop runs from below, along the floor along the perimeter of the walls. And a separate wire rises to the outlet from it. And the eyeliner itself from above is the usual phase and zero. In this case, the switching at the socket terminals does not change in any way.
Now - let's slightly increase the area of \u200b\u200bconnection of sockets and see how switching is performed if it is necessary to install a block of two or more pieces.
If the connection goes to the network without a ground loop, then everything is relatively simple. In this case, the sockets are connected with a so-called loop. That is, the phase wire approaches the first, from which it is connected with a jumper to the second. Further, from the second jumper goes to the third. The zero contacts of the sockets are switched in the same way.
The method, I must say, is not without flaws. For example, with insufficient contact of one of the wires, say, on the second outlet, the third one already a priori becomes inoperative. However, this is easily diagnosed, and for prevention purposes, it is recommended to tighten the screw terminals annually.
If the design of the terminals in the sockets provides such an opportunity, the best solution would be to make connections not with jumpers, but with a solid wire. In a small area, the insulation is removed, the wire is bent in a loop and this loop is clamped in the terminal of the first outlet. Then a section of insulation is removed for the second outlet - and so on. The fuss, of course, is much more, it is required to provide in advance for the required length of the wires of the supply line, but the sockets are obtained according to the degree of their efficiency - they are independent of one another.
It would seem that in the same way you can connect sockets with a grounding contact with a loop. However, such a connection (using jumpers) is undesirable, since it does not differ in reliability. If the absence of a phase or zero becomes immediately noticeable to users, and measures to restore the outlet's operability are taken immediately, then the unreliability of the protective grounding may remain undetected for a very long time. And this can pose a very serious threat to the operation of electrical appliances.
By the way, the rules for operating electrical installations directly prohibit the serial connection of the grounding wire.
"PUE-7
1.7.144. The connection of each open conductive part of an electrical installation to a neutral protective or protective grounding conductor must be performed using a separate branch. Sequential inclusion of exposed conductive parts in the protective conductor is not allowed. "
Therefore, you should act, as a last resort, as shown above - with a common ground wire and creating several sections on it for terminal connection (although this will not be entirely correct).
And best of all - on the grounding wire suitable for the first socket, perform a high-quality twisting (unsoldering). And already from it to each outlet of the unit, lead a separate ground wire for individual connection.
Will such a twist fit in the box of the first outlet? Numerous examples presented in photographs on the Internet convince that it is possible to do this.
You can put a deeper socket for the first outlet - not 40, but 60 mm - it will be much easier to fit the wires there. By the way, if space permits, nothing prevents you from performing such twists (desoldering) for a phase with zero - the reliability of the outlet block will only benefit from this. Naturally, all connections are carefully insulated with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. And the twists themselves are very convenient to do using special PPE caps - it turns out quickly, neatly, and very reliably. Wago terminals are also very convenient for such purposes, but high-quality twisting will still be more reliable for loaded lines.
Sometimes they do this too - they put on one more socket, and it is used as a local junction box. Then, after switching the entire unit, it is closed with a plug, and then with a decorative wall decoration. In this case, certainly nothing will prevent you from making a reliable high-quality liner to all the sockets of the block.
Socket installation process - step by step
In this article, we will not focus on laying wires to the installation site of sockets, installing boxes and sockets. This is a topic for a separate and very detailed consideration, and it has already found coverage on the pages of the portal.
How to independently lay the wiring in a house or apartment?
The task is not an easy one, requiring certain knowledge and very high care when carrying out work. In addition, in the course of its implementation, many general construction operations will have to be performed. The theoretical foundations and all stages of installation are described in great detail in the large instructional article of our portal.
When installing sockets, follow the established wire color coding. It is customary to switch zero with blue (light blue) wires, grounding - green-yellow. There can be various options with a phase - brown, black, white, red and others, but in any case - they are always different from zero and ground.
When installing outlets, and during other electrical operations, in any case, the first thing to do is to make sure that the line is completely de-energized. Some measures are taken to prevent its unauthorized inclusion - this should be constantly monitored until the end of the work.
Below we will consider several options for installing outlets. They are all, of course, similar, but they have some differences related to the characteristics of specific cases.
Installing a single socket
A very common case - it was produced, and it's time to install new sockets. A cable is connected to the socket, which is still inside it in an insulated state.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | When pasting the wall with wallpaper, two diagonal cuts at once indicated the location of the socket outlet. This is where the socket is to be installed. |
 | First of all, it is necessary to fully open the socket itself. Fragments of wallpaper around the perimeter are carefully trimmed with a sharp knife ... |
 | ... and are removed. The action is carried out carefully so as not to accidentally damage the finish in the area that will remain uncovered by the outlet. |
 | The hidden end of the power cable is pulled outward. |
 | After finishing work, a lot of debris, remnants of mortars, dust can accumulate inside the socket after finishing work. All this needs to be cleaned out. |
 | After removing large debris, small ones can be quickly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. |
 | Everything, the place is prepared - you can proceed to the installation work. |
 | First of all, if necessary, shorten the cable suitable for the outlet. It is usually assumed that it should protrude beyond the wall surface by 60 ÷ 80 mm. |
 | Further, it is necessary to remove the outer layer of protective insulation (braid) from the cable. It is shown here that the master is wielding an ordinary knife. It is possible, of course, but still - not entirely correct, since it is so easy to damage the insulation of the wires. Below, in the following table, a more competent approach to this operation will be shown. |
 | The braid is removed to free the wires. Its remains are carefully cut and removed so that they do not interfere with the work. |
 | Released wires are bent to the sides several times at once, in exactly the same order as they will be connected to the outlet: phase on the left, zero on the right, and grounding in the center. The ends of the wires (about 25 mm) can be bent down a little at once. |
 | With the help of the insulation stripper, the ends are exposed - about 10 mm from the edge. |
 | The ends of the wires are stripped and ready for installation. |
 | This example uses a socket equipped with self-clamping spring terminals. That is, the work is simplified to the limit. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the hole of the terminal and simply sinks into it until it stops. Switching an outlet takes only a few seconds. |
 | After that, it is necessary with a pulling movement to check the reliability of fixation in the terminals of all three wires. If everything is ok, you can move on. |
 | The connected wires are slightly bent so that they are located along the back of the socket housing. |
 | In this form, the socket is ready for installation in the socket of the socket. |
 | In this example, the mounting screws are still unremoved in the socket. Of course, they should be unscrewed. But usually this operation is carried out a little earlier, when cleaning the socket box from construction debris. |
 | The body of the socket is inserted into the socket of the socket and approximately, by eye, is aligned horizontally. Then it is temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws. First, on the one hand ... |
 | ... and then from the opposite. At the same time, the self-tapping screws are not tightened yet. |
 | The next step is to set the upper edge of the outlet strictly horizontally. For this, a level is applied to the upper edge of the caliper, and the necessary position adjustments are made. The arcuate cutouts under the self-tapping screws make it possible to slightly turn the socket in the desired direction. |
 | Then, without knocking down the exposed position, the fastening screws are tightened. After that, the screws of the stopper-paws are also screwed in, which, dispersed to the sides, will abut against the walls of the socket box and finally fix the socket. |
 | You can proceed to the final assembly. The decorative frame of the shown rosette model consists of two parts - it is first assembled. |
 | Then a central cover with a plug socket is inserted into it. |
 | In this form, they are connected to the body of the installed outlet. The system of grooves and protrusions on these parts will provide a perfect unambiguous alignment - somehow it is simply impossible to install the cover unevenly. |
 | It remains only to tighten the fixing screw in the center - it will finally press the cover to the socket housing. True, you shouldn't apply “fanatical” efforts when screwing in, so that the plastic of the cover does not crack. |
 | That's it, the socket is installed - the correctness of its placement is being checked. If this was the only electrical task, you can turn on the machine and check the functionality of the outlet. |
Installing a block of two outlets
The situation is similar - after finishing it is necessary to install a block of two single outlets. The master will connect them with a loop. The negative aspects of this method have already been mentioned above, but many people do just that.
| Illustration | Brief description of the performed operation |
|---|---|
 | Even before the start of finishing work, two socket outlets are placed in the right place at a set distance from one another. The power cable is routed to the left |
 | Two single Legrand sockets will be installed and covered with one common frame. |
 | This is the remainder of the three-core cable coil that was used for hidden wiring. A piece of it will be required to connect the outlets with each other. |
 | After cleaning the socket boxes from construction debris, you can immediately unscrew the fastening screws from them. They are usually left in place after installing the socket outlets before finishing so that the holes are not clogged with mortar, but now they should be removed. |
 | The end of the supplied cable is pulled out of the socket. When trimming excess, the master is guided by the "rule of 4 fingers" - this is how the cable should protrude beyond the wall surface for the convenience of further electrical work. |
 | The braid is removed from the cable. But here the master first deliberately demonstrates how to do it. When trimming the sheath with a knife, it is likely that the insulation inside the wires will be damaged. |
 | Such a nuisance can happen. In addition, damage to the insulation can be almost imperceptible, but once, already during the operation of the outlet, play its fatal role. |
 | A special knife with a heel should be used to strip the outer insulation of the cable. |
 | When working with such a tool, the risk of damaging the insulation of the cable wires is completely eliminated. |
 | The ripped braid of the cable is cut and removed so that it does not take up space in the box and does not interfere with work. |
 | After that, the ends of the three wires are exposed by about 10 mm. For this, a special tool must also be used - an insulation stripper. Making cuts with a knife is to provoke a break in the conductor. In addition, scratches on the conductor are very unhelpful for good contact when connecting in terminals. |
 | Stripped wire ends in the first socket. Now it is necessary to bring in it and wires for switching with the second outlet. |
 | For this, a piece of the same cable is taken that was used for the connection. This is important, because if you really do a loop, then only with completely identical wires. The braid is removed to a length from the edge of about 200 mm. After that, the wires from the side of the second socket are pushed into the first through the channel between them. |
 | This is how it will look in practice after pulling the wires. |
 | The ends of the inserted wires are also stripped of insulation, you can proceed to connecting the first outlet. This model has three screw terminals, but each has two identical insertion slots. |
 | In them, wires with the same color marking are wound up in pairs. In the left pair - white (phase), in the central pair - green-yellow (ground), in the right pair - blue (zero). After installing each pair, the terminal is immediately tightened tightly with a screwdriver. After tightening all three terminals, the wires at the back are slightly bent down along the socket body ... |
 | … And then the socket is gently inserted into the socket and roughly aligned. |
 | The socket is not yet fixed with self-tapping screws - first you need to immediately install the second one. It is even easier here. |
 | First, the required length of the wires is also measured with “four fingers”, and their ends are stripped from insulation. |
 | Then the wires are inserted in the same order to the socket terminals and tightened with the screws. |
 | After that, the wires are bent along the body in the same way, and the socket is installed in the socket of the socket. |
 | Now you can provide a preliminary fixation of the sockets with self-tapping screws - two pieces each, left and right. At the same time, the screws are not yet tightened to the end. |
 | The next step is to horizontally align the outlets. The master has a special tool for these purposes - miniature levels. They, firstly, are well fixed with magnets to the socket supports and do not bind hands, and secondly, they allow alignment with very high accuracy. It is clear that if there are no such levels, you will have to do with the usual ones. |
 | After the necessary adjustments have been made to the position of the sockets, they are finally fixed. First, the self-tapping screws are screwed all the way, and then the screws that will unclench the persistent legs of the sockets. |
 | After the sockets are exposed, and after fixation, the correctness of their position is checked again, you can proceed to the final procedures - the installation of the outer cladding and covers. The common frame is unpacked and tried on. |
 | Then they are inserted in turn and finally fixed with the cover screws. |
 | That's it, the installation of the double socket strip is complete. |
By the way, it is often when it is required to have two sockets in a certain place, but there is no desire to fiddle with two subgrids and the assembly of the unit, they simply install one double. In fact, its installation practically does not differ from the usual installation - it is just that it is larger in size. But there is one important nuance that must not be forgotten.
The fact is that in most models, in order to provide contacts on both plug-in plugs, two plate buses are installed inside the socket - for phase and zero. But sometimes it happens that there are two terminals on each of the buses - as if for convenience during installation. And a fairly common mistake when performing such an installation for the first time is that the phase and zero wires are clamped in the terminals of one bus.
The consequences of such inattention are quite obvious. When the power is turned on - an instant short circuit. And it will still be very good if the matter is limited to just a burnt out or melted socket. Everything can be much sadder.
So attentiveness and accuracy during electrical work must be fully mobilized.
Features of installing sockets on a plasterboard wall
Another option that is often encountered during repairs is an outlet (one or a block of several) must be installed on a plasterboard partition or on a wall aligned with it.
Naturally, this issue is thought out in advance, and a cable is drawn to the panned installation site even before the installation of the drywall sheets, enclosed in a special corrugated pipe for safety.
The process of installing outlets itself, in principle, does not differ much from the options discussed above. The nuance here is, rather, the installation of socket boxes.
| Illustration | Brief description of the performed operation |
|---|---|
 | For a similar task, special plasterboard boxes are used. There are several of these models, but they all have one thing in common. |
 | On both sides of such a socket, there are presser feet, which move along the groove intended for this upward when the screw (self-tapping screw) is screwed in. Thus, the paws will press the socket on the back of the drywall sheet. |
 | The design of the case of the socket and the legs themselves are different. In this example, the body has the shape of a truncated cone, that is, the legs will also diverge to the sides when moving upward. In other embodiments, the shape of the guide groove is made such that the tab, when the screw rotates, first turns 90 degrees and then moves upward. But this is not particularly reflected in the installation procedure. Before starting installation, the feet must be in the lowest position. |
 | In the socket boxes, windows are cut and then squeezed out for the passage of wires. In the first - at the bottom for cable entry and at the side for the switching channel with the second socket. In the second - only on the side for switching. |
 | The sockets are ready - you can go to the markings on the wall. The location of the outlets, that is, the area where the supply cable is hidden under the drywall, should be known to the owners. In this case, a block of two outlets will be installed, and they, of course, should be located on one horizontal line. |
 | The vertical line is also drawn - this is the axis of the first socket. At the point of intersection, a round window for the socket box will be drilled further. |
 | The standard distance between the centers of the socket boxes, if they are planned to be assembled into a single block, is 71 mm. This segment breaks off along a horizontal line. Naturally, when marking the centers of the holes, the location of the elements of the wall frame structure is always taken into account, so as not to fall on the posts or lintels. |
 | Both centers are outlined - you can proceed to drilling. |
 | For this, a special crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. You can, of course, cut it out with a knife or a file, but there is a very high risk of accidentally making a mistake, going beyond the boundaries of the cut, and the socket box may not have sufficient support for reliable fixation. When drilling, no special effort is needed - drywall is easy to cut. Excessive pressure can damage the back cardboard coating of the gypsum board. In addition, do not forget that somewhere behind the plasterboard wall there is also a cable, which can be damaged if the crown uncontrollably falls into the depths of the wall from great effort. |
 | The first window for the socket is ready. Go to drilling the second. |
 | Both receptacles are drilled. |
 | Now we need to find the cable laid there behind the plasterboard cladding ... |
 | ... and gently pull the end outward. |
 | Then the cable is passed through the hole in the bottom of the first socket, and the socket itself is carefully inserted into the cut out socket ... |
 | ... until it stops, so that the side on the outer circumference rests against the surface of the drywall. |
 | After that, the second socket is inserted into its socket. |
 | Socket boxes are trimmed along the vertical axis, and then they are fixed. To do this, turn the screws (or screws) clockwise to move the presser feet. On many models (in particular - on the demonstrated one) this movement is well observed visually. For some, it is invisible, and you have to focus on the effort on the screwdriver. In any case, the rotation of the screw is carried out until you feel that the foot rested against the drywall. They move to the opposite foot - and bring it to the same position. After that, they make another half turn on both screws - and that's enough. In no case should you overtighten - the foot can begin to crumble drywall from the inside. |
 | Similar actions are repeated on the second socket. We can assume that they have been successfully installed. |
 | Next, the cable sheath is removed. In principle, sockets can also be installed. But it is recommended to also putty this knot - this will increase its strength. And, in general, it is better to finally mount the sockets after finishing the finish. |
 | This means that the ends of the wires must be insulated ... |
 | ... and then gently roll up and hide in a box. The installation of the sockets themselves, when the final conditions are created for this, is no longer different from the examples discussed above. |
* * * * * * *
So, the issues of self-installation of sockets were considered. Of course, the variety of possible installation options is not limited to the examples shown.
If, after reading the article, an inexperienced reader in electrical engineering still has unresolved questions, the fear of self-installation has not passed, it is better not to take it. Call an electrician - it will be safer and more reliable.
But if you decide to do it yourself, then always before starting work, make sure that the network is completely de-energized. And after the installation is complete - carefully check the correctness of all connections, the quality of the insulation - and only then can the voltage turn-on test be carried out.
At the end of the publication - an interesting video on the same topic:
Video: The nuances of proper installation of grounded sockets
A socket with a double connector will provide the ability to simultaneously power two devices connected to separate electrical outlets. In addition, for each of them you do not need to pull a cable, and it is more convenient to use due to the grouped arrangement.
The information offered for review is supplemented with step-by-step photo guides, visual illustrations and videos that explain the nuances of installing and connecting power devices.
The main elements of the electrical outlet are the outer protective case and the working part, which includes the base and contacts.
They are interconnected by screw terminals - the clamps required to connect the electrical equipment cable.
The only drawback of double sockets is that it is problematic to connect two high-power consumers of electricity at the same time through them.
There is a misconception that double sockets are identical to assembled or dual models and are several independent devices located close to each other, connected by loops.
A block of electrical outlets is used to combine household appliances in one place. This is mainly a kitchen or bathroom. The block contains from 4 to 8 landing cells. The design is a plastic housing with electrical connectors. Modern models have additional grounding contacts. This avoids the risk of a short circuit or a sudden surge in the eclectic current.
The installation and connection of the socket strip must be done by a professional. It is important to observe the polarity of the conductors and to make high-quality insulation. Failure to comply with one of the requirements may cause electric shock or premature damage to household appliances.
Technical features of the socket block
The structure of the socket block is slightly different from that of a conventional socket. Here you can connect up to five electrical appliances at the same time. Most models are equipped with additional security. They can independently reduce the level of electricity to the desired parameters.
There are two types of blocks on sale:
- Device for hidden wiring. It is fixed in the thickness of the wall using special modules with additional socket outlets. Recessed socket blocks are designed at the initial stage of construction;
- Products for open wiring. They are installed on the plane of the walls. To do this, use overhead socket blocks and special plates from socket boxes. Various design allows you to choose the required model.
The most popular are retractable socket blocks. They can be integrated into a cabinet structure or kitchen worktop. They slide out easily during operation. The main power supply is located inside the wall.
Quite often, this device is located in the kitchen, where all the appliances may be needed at the same time. They are attached behind the working area at a height of 20 cm. If the structure is installed inside the tabletop, then it has a pull-out mechanism.
In the living room and bedroom, sockets are attached behind the TV or bedside tables. They have from 2 to 4 sections. Models with additional body protection are designed for the children's room. The photo of the block of outlets shows modern models of the electrical wiring circuit.
Connection methods
If you plan to connect an outlet block from one group, then the loopback method is used here. This type of wiring is capable of withstanding a load that does not exceed 16A. Basically these are sections of three outlets with additional grounding.
The combined method includes a parallel circuit for connection. Here, two cable lines are laid from the main power source. One of them serves as a loopback method. It supplies power to four or six socket sections.
Another wire is responsible for the maximum power supply of the equipment. It conducts current to the fifth and sixth points. It is most commonly used for high power household appliances.
The main advantage of this method is the correct distribution of the surge in electricity. Each of these points operates independently of the adjacent members of the chain.
The main disadvantage of this method is considered to be complex installation and high costs for the cable and its professional installation. These methods can be used for both hidden and overhead types of socket blocks.
The loopback method requires laying a cable inside the wall cavity, and the combined one on its surface. Special cable channels increase safety during the operation of household appliances. Most channels have additional baffles. Electrical wiring is neatly placed in them.
How to install the socket box yourself?
We bring to your attention the instructions for installing the block of outlets with your own hands. During the workflow, we recommend that you follow a strict sequence of each action.
Preparing consumables
For this you will need:
- block of sockets;
- strip for decoration;
- wires;
- socket boxes;
- plaster solution.
The following tools will help to carry out installation work:
- perforator with a special nozzle;
- building level;
- set for electrical work. It includes: screwdrivers, pliers;
- container for mixing gypsum solution;
- construction trowel.
Wall surface marking
Here you need to make accurate calculations that simplify the task. If the walls are made of plasterboard, then it is recommended to monitor its structure. It is important not to damage the metal frame during work. Experienced experts recommend using a chamfering crown with a diameter not exceeding 100 cm.
Seats for future outlets
Here it is necessary to use low rotations of the hammer drill. In addition, it is recommended to pay particular attention to the position of the instrument. It should be located strictly horizontally.
When the hole is made, the remains of construction debris and dust are carefully removed from it. For the hidden type of sockets, grooves are made in the wall surface.
Exiting the electrical outlet cable outside the wall
After the cable is pulled out, they begin to install the socket outlet. The size of the block of outlets directly depends on the number of its sections. The excess void is covered with plaster solution. This will ensure that the device is firmly fixed inside the wall.
Connecting content internally
When the gypsum is completely dry, proceed to connect the inner contents. If a daisy-chain connection is performed, then all wires go to the first socket. The first step is to clean the cable ends from the protective layer. This requires a sharp knife.
Bows are made from wire fragments of different colors. The cross-section of these parts should not coincide with the conductors of the electrical line. Each element is insulated with a heat-shrinkable cambric.
Wires in the socket
Wires are threaded through the adapters in the socket boxes. After that, the roof is removed from the outlet block. Next, fix the clamping screws. One end of the wire is directed to the first section. Next, they begin to connect wires to each socket. It is important to observe the polarity of the contacts.
When all sections are connected, the housing is closed with a protective panel.
Photo of socket blocks
The power supply of any room should ensure the ability to quickly connect electrical installations (including household appliances). For this, the sockets placed on the walls are used. Since the connection of sockets to the power cable must be reliable and safe, the Electrical Installation Regulations (PUE) prescribe the presence of a housing for each outlet that provides protection against electric shock. Sockets designed for surface mounting (including outdoor) have their own housing that meets safety measures. For devices built into the wall, installation of socket outlets is provided.
The socket boxes serve several functions
- Structural: the box must be firmly fixed in the wall, and firmly hold the socket itself.
- Electrical safety. Boxes for brick, concrete and plasterboard walls are made of dielectric materials, and prevent the ingress of electrical potential from the contacts to the supporting structures.
- In addition, the socket itself is protected. Moisture, dust, and foreign objects do not get inside the case.
- Fire safety. If a fire occurs inside the socket, the flame does not penetrate beyond the socket.
- The aesthetic component is also present. When installing socket outlets in a brick or concrete wall, the seat looks neat. A flat surface is obtained around the outlet.
Requirements for socket boxes
There is no single set of rules describing the installation of boxes for hidden installation of electrical outlets. Electrical installation rules require compliance with general fire and electrical safety requirements. In this sense, installing a box under a socket is no different from installing a junction box. There are building codes (SNiP) that determine the geometry of the placement of sockets in the room. Well, common sense has not been canceled.
We will try to combine all the conditions under which the installation of socket outlets will not cause problems during the operation of electrical equipment.
An optional but useful requirement is the ability to connect multiple outlets to each other using standard clips. This allows you to assemble a structure of any length.
We proceed to the direct installation of the socket boxes
Before starting work, it is advisable to have a full set of consumables. Power cable, the required number of socket boxes (with a small stock "for scrap"), building mixtures, PVA glue. The power tool with which you plan to cut holes.
Markup
Regardless of whether the power cable has been laid in advance, or you will be cutting walls under it at the same time as drilling niches for sockets, the installation of socket outlets begins with careful marking.
It is impossible to guess where the electrical appliances will be located. Perhaps tomorrow you want to make a rearrangement in the apartment. Therefore, the sockets are installed according to the following principle:
- For universal use - at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor (meaning the height from the finished finish).
- For large household appliances (washing machine, refrigerator) at a height of 1 meter.
- If the outlet blocks are mounted above countertops or bedside tables - not less than 10 cm from the surface.
- A special case is the installation of wall-hung TV sockets. This is an individual project.
- But the distance between the centers of the socket boxes is a constant (for group installation, in a row). This value for the installation of standard sockets is 71 mm.
It is also necessary to consider the horizontal arrangement. From corners, ceilings, floors, door frames - a distance of at least 15 cm. From heating radiators no closer than 50 cm. Of course, you cannot place sockets above heating devices (with the exception of the "warm floor" system) and above kitchen stoves. Electrical installation rules and SNiP prohibit the installation of outlets and the laying of wires on walls directly facing the street.
Making holes
There are three main ways. There are no advantages or disadvantages between the two. It all depends on the availability of tools and attachments. There is no fundamental difference between the installation of socket boxes in a brick or concrete wall, so the technology is similar.
- Crown for stone (concrete, brick). The classic and fastest way to drill a wall for a round box.
The diameter of such a nozzle is usually 70 or 75 mm. Considering the outer dimensions of the socket (61–65 mm), it is better to use a larger crown. Firstly, it is easier to seal the extra gap with a solution than to squeeze the box into a tight hole. Secondly, you have a small margin in case of miscalculation in the marking. Then, adhering to the strictly central marking, we drill holes to a depth exceeding the length of the socket by 10-15 mm. You will not be able to get ready-made holes, most likely the installation site will look like this: 
It's okay, the core is easily knocked out with a chisel or bolt. 
Advice! What to do if reinforcement gets in the way of the bit? (Applies only to concrete walls).
It is not difficult to identify the metal under the crown. You definitely can't go wrong: deepening stops, there is a characteristic knock and vibration.
The most correct advice is to change the location of the outlet. The reinforcement has a pitch of 15–30 mm, if the placement is not so important - move the hole 3-5 cm. Before that, try to determine which reinforcement you are in: vertical or horizontal. This will help avoid further mistakes.
If it is impossible to move the socket block, you will have to remove a piece of reinforcement. To do this, knock out a "glass" of concrete to reveal the metal. Use a bolt to break the area around the reinforcement a couple of centimeters. Wire 5–6 mm in diameter can be broken with a chisel.
Thicker reinforcement bars will have to be drilled out.
The best option is to cut this area with a grinder. We will get acquainted with this method further.
- Drilling holes with a drill. Not the easiest way, but in the absence of a crown, one or two seats can be made. The fundamental difference is that the contour is not drilled along the center point of the layout. You need to draw a circle with a diameter of 75 mm around it. Then you need to drill holes along the contour as often as possible.
And then, as in the first version - a bolt or a chisel. Tip: Don't be afraid to break the wall around the holes. Of course, I want everything to look beautiful even at the preparatory stage: holes, as in the picture, a perfectly even row. You just waste extra time, all the irregularities will be plastered and covered with the finishing surface.
By the way, if you are installing the socket outlets in a brick wall, drilling will not be a difficult task. The material is soft, easy to drill even without a hammer drill: a conventional drill with a victorious drill.
If you're making a niche in red brick, try to get between the cement layers. Less damage (concrete breaks out in pieces) and easier to choose a hole.
- Installation of socket outlets using a grinder. This method is not used due to the lack of a drill or bit for concrete. If you have a grinder, then there is a hammer drill. It's just another technology, no better or worse than the rest.
The only condition under which this method is irreplaceable is working with a reinforced concrete wall of special strength. You just blunt an expensive bit, and discs on a grinder cost a penny.
Together with the gates for the power cable, we simply cut out rectangular or square holes with a margin around the socket boxes.
It certainly looks rough. On more or less processed walls, a hand does not rise to such blasphemy. And if it is still far from finishing, this is the fastest and most effective way. Also suitable for brick walls.
- The most not aesthetic way is a hammer drill in jackhammer mode. It should be used only if other methods are impossible. Nevertheless, the technology is there, and we cannot ignore it.
The end result is ready-made holes for socket boxes with gated lines. We clean the niches with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner, and be sure to prime them.
Installation of boxes
In accordance with the markup, we try on the assembled blocks. Mounting of socket outlets is carried out regardless of the quality of the holes. If the box rests against an incorrectly drilled niche, it must be expanded. Markup is our everything! Do not be lazy at this stage, even if you do not want to pick up the chisel and litter again.
Experienced installers fix the socket boxes to some kind of guide, fix the ideal location, and then cover the boxes with alabaster.
If you just sit the socket outlets in a liquid solution, they can move until they dry completely. We'll have to re-hammer everything.
Leave the wires with a margin of 10-15 cm. When installing the sockets, you will remove the excess, leaving a small installation loop.
The eternal question: to install flush boxes before or after plastering
If the surface is covered with drywall, there is no such problem. But what to do when installing socket outlets in a brick or concrete wall?
In fact, from a technical point of view, there is no difference. You can accurately calculate the planting height: the main thing is that the socket does not stick out, even by 1 mm. If the edge is recessed by 3-5 mm, this is not a problem. The receptacle mounting pad will rest against the wall, and use longer screws for fastening.
The problem is rather psychological - it's a pity to drill a plastered surface.
When choosing a sequence (before or after plastering), one nuance should be taken into account: if the edge of the installed flush plates protrudes above the wall plane, how will you evenly apply the plaster?
Therefore, the best option is to drill niches, then plaster the walls (there will be holes for sockets with uneven edges), and then carefully clean up the edge of the holes. Before you install the socket boxes, you will have to restore the markup.
Simple advice for novice craftsmen: To prevent alabaster or gypsum from hardening too quickly, add PVA glue to the water. After mixing, the solution crystallizes 2–3 times longer.
True, the final drying will have to wait for several hours. But the mixture will be many times stronger.
Related Videos
This information can be useful to everyone who has ever come across or is faced with the installation of socket outlets. We will describe as briefly and concisely as possible, what is a sockethow to install it correctly and how much it might cost to install it. You will also learn how to put back a dropped socket and what can be used instead.
Remember three basic rules for a good installation:
You can also add a few nuances that will help you understand what kind of socket boxes you need; how to prepare holes (nests) for them; how to put the cable into the socket correctly; and how to install it correctly.
Sizes of socket boxes
Everything regarding the size of the socket boxes, everything is simple here, the most common size of the socket box is 70mm in diameter. In the vast majority of cases, they all have the same size. And most modern outlets and switches are designed for these sizes.
Types of socket boxes
It is important not to forget about such a parameter as socket depth... But even in this case, everything is simple, if you plan to switch several wires in the socket, in addition to the outlet or switch itself (for example, use a socket instead of a wiring box), then you will need a deeper socket. If possible, use deep sockets, then it is easier to work with them and install sockets in them.
Switching wires in a socket instead of a junction box
Remember! - Once, a properly installed socket box, it never reminds of itself again.
Installation of a socket in concrete
What needs to be done to install the socket in concrete? Correctly! - Hollow out a hole under the socket! For this, it is best to use a drill with a diamond core bit, but this is not the best option in terms of cheapness. A more convenient and practical option is a perforator with a percussion crown for concrete, well, or just cut out concrete with a grinder with a disc over a stone (but this is a very dirty way, and dust will be absolutely everywhere: in the ears, eyes and at the entrance).
It should be noted that when chiseling, a lot of fine dust is formed in the room, and first of all, installers should take care of their health, purchase standard protective equipment: masks, respirators, headphones and a construction vacuum cleaner.
Future holes must first be marked. Draw a line along the level and place marks on the wall. If you have 2 or more socket boxes, then the distance between the centers of the circles 71 mm... This is a distance calculated empirically by professional electricians, checked by sweat and blood! Remember 71mm!
The easiest way to make labels is to attach a group of wall boxes to the wall.
Strobleniee holes
After marking, in the marked centers of the circle, it is necessary to make a hole with a slightly larger diameter drill than the crown drill (for example, with an 8-10mm drill). We drill a hole with a margin, taking into account the length of the drill of the crown itself (but do not forget about the neighbors and thin walls). This method is also suitable when working with a diamond core bit in drilling mode.
Shtrobing process. After drilling holes in the center of the future circle, it is necessary to go deeper into the wall with a crown a few millimeters (this only applies to the method of working with a perforator!). Along the outlined circle, you need to drill the maximum possible number of holes, so that it is easier for the crown to "gnaw" the concrete.
With a diamond bit, you just need to drill, without chiseling, periodically letting the bit cool down. It is worth noting that when a diamond bit hits the reinforcement, its resource is significantly reduced.
When working with a grinder, the whole task comes down to making cuts in the wall to the desired depth, and hollowing out the area where the socket boxes will be located.
What to do if the drill or bit gets caught in the reinforcement during drilling?
There are several ways to remove reinforcement. One of the fastest and most painless is knocking out the reinforcement with a chisel - a perforator attachment. If the crown hits the reinforcement (an indirect sign of getting into the reinforcement is sparks or a clear slowdown in the drilling process), it is better to remove this reinforcement, otherwise damage the crown.
The second less convenient way is to use an old crown. It doesn't matter which way you do it, with a diamond or drill bit, in both cases we simply drill out the reinforcement. The metal of the reinforcement is very soft and can be easily broken through with a hammer drill. And the third, dirty way, is to simply drill out the reinforcement with a grinder with a diamond disc on the stone.
Embedding the socket in concrete
The best way to secure the socket outlets is to embed them in the hole, using alebsatr or rotband. A small life hack - so that the solution does not freeze too quickly and you do not have to wait a day - you need to mix alabaster with rotband.
At the beginning, using a vacuum cleaner, remove all the dust from the hole, moisten (prime) the hole with water. And only after that, apply the solution with a small spatula, spreading it along the inner walls of the hole. The solution must be thick enough not to leak from the wells. It is important to understand that the contact area of \u200b\u200bthe solution with the socket should be maximized! Plus, coat the socket boxes themselves with the mixture. The solution will envelop the flush plate from all sides, and adhere well to the base of the wall, only then we can say that the flush plate is installed efficiently!
With a large spatula, remove excess mortar while leveling the wall surface. Before this procedure, it is necessary to pull out or screw in all the self-tapping screws of the socket box.
Laying the cable into the socket.It is best to lay the cable already in the installed socket, the windows for the cable are easily knocked out with a screwdriver, and the channels for pulling the cable between the socket are better done in advance. When the solution has cooled down, you can safely insert the cable into the pre-drilled holes or grooves.
If you do not have that much time and the cable needs to be embedded together with the socket, try to align the socket as accurately as possible. You can wind the cable into any hole, but it is better not to use the side windows for this, so that there are no difficulties with the subsequent installation of the sockets.
Important! The entry of the cable into the socket should not interfere with the future outlet in any way, especially from the side of the spacers. A very common mistake when installing socket outlets is by interrupting the wires with a spacer from the outlet - in this case, a dangerous potential may appear on the socket housing, or a short circuit may occur when the electricity is turned on.
At what stage of repair (finishing) is it better to lay a socket box?
This is one of the most pressing questions that not everyone will think about at the beginning, but understand how important it is at the end. Ideally, you need to observe RULE # 1, but this is not always the case.
Therefore, you need to know in advance how much the layer of plaster or other layer (drywall, tile, etc.) will protrude before you mount the socket. As a last resort, you can break this rule and install the socket flush with the bare concrete wall. But in this case, when sanding the walls, the socket boxes will be recessed into the wall, to the depth of the plaster layer. It will not be easy to install high-quality sockets in such a socket, but our electricians know how to do it correctly.
Installation of socket outlets in plasterboard
When working with plasterboard, the cable is laid in advance, or pulled out using technical holes and broaches. In places of future cable commutation (connections), or in those places where a socket should be, leave a supply of cable, and mark outside where this cable is located. Mark the place of the future hole for the socket in any way convenient for you, for example, screw a self-tapping screw into this place.
The markings for socket boxes are made in the same way as on concrete. The distance between the centers of the circle is the same 71mm... It is important to consider that the drilled hole is no longer possible to fix (or rather, nothing is impossible for a good electrician), but before calling an electrician, you need to try to do it yourself.
Holes in drywall can be made with a conventional wood crown, diameter 68mm, using a screwdriver or drill.
After drilling the hole, you need to find the right wires, which should be right behind the wall. It happens that they are hidden in a junction box, or hang on a cable with which the wires can be pulled to the hole. Each craftsman has his own way of pulling wires in hidden cavities, but that's another story.
It is necessary to insert the wires into the socket box BEFORE installing the socket box itself, otherwise it simply cannot be done.
Now comes the fun part. The most painful procedure is the correct installation of the socket into the drywall. This is due to the fact that different manufacturers of the socket for drywall (or wood) have ears for securely fixing the socket for the ceiling wall (drywall, plywood or whatever you have). In some cases, because of these lugs, the roselet does not fit into the prepared hole, but this problem does not occur on all the receptacles!
It is best to take care of this in advance when buying a socket outlet. Make sure that the ears open, do not go beyond the circumference of the socket itself, for example, as here
If, nevertheless, you managed to buy a "wrong" socket, then you can use one little trick: eyelets are made in plywood or drywall at a slight angle (it is enough to make them on one side only), after that the socket can be installed normally. The socket should normally fit into the hole at an angle. The main thing is not to overdo it and not to make the hole of a larger diameter than the outer edges of the socket
After all the procedures, we fix the socket by tightening the screws
What to do if the wall box pops out of the wall
In cases where you are faced with a dropped or poorly fixed socket, there are several ways that you can correct the situation. The simplest and most reliable - screw the self-cutter into the base socket (if it is concrete, a self-tapping screw with a dowel). The second method is glue gun. Before gluing, it is necessary to remove all dust from the hole. More difficult situations, when, for example, the base is plaster and it crumbled. Help here plaster solution, the base must first be primed, for example, with PVA glue.
The mortar method can also work for plasterboard structures. In general, the solution is, in principle, a panacea for fallen out socket outlets. In some severe cases, you can screw the socket itself or the switch to the base of the wall.
Installation of socket outlets in tiles or false wall panels
It is better to lay the cable and install the socket outlets in advance, before laying the tiles. But if the tile is already lying, and you need to make an outlet or a switch, then crowns for ceramic tiles will help here. The crowns will help you to accurately drill holes in the tiles.
The hardest thing is if there is concrete under the tiles that needs to be channeled. In this case, it is best to use a diamond bit, otherwise there is a possibility of damage to the tile (when chiselling with a conventional bit)
There is a cheaper and dirtier way, this is drilling a hole with a grinder, the main thing is to drill everything as carefully as possible so that the hole is covered with a frame from the outlet.
Conclusion
That's all, I hope this article will help you in our difficult electrical business. Like and follow us on social networks. And if something does not work out, you can always get highly qualified assistance from professional electricians.
And the most important! When carrying out any work with work wires, do not forget to turn off the electricity!