PVC panels are also well suited for exterior decoration of the house. Manufacturers make them in different colors and with interesting patterns.

This will diversify the inexpressive appearance of the structure. The design is so simple that it is very easy to mount them. In order to do everything with your own hands, you should ask how to fix plastic panels to the wall from those who have already encountered such work.

What can be attached

Wall plastic parts can be attached to the base using:

1. Nails or self-tapping screws - in this case, the elements cannot be dismantled, they will break at the point of attachment.
2. A special stapler is a very convenient and fast way; the staples can be easily removed when disassembling such a finish.
3. Gluing liquid nails - this option is even more convenient than the previous one, but dismantling is impossible.

Each of the methods securely fastens the installed pvc panels both to the frame and to the bare wall.

Do you need a frame

Fastening of plastic panels is carried out on a wooden or metal frame, or without it. How do you know if a frame is needed? If the base is even without tubercles or depressions, without cracks that must be repaired, then you can do without a frame. Any method of fastening is suitable, the main thing is to choose according to the basis.

If the walls are wooden, wall panels can be installed using a stapler, nails or self-tapping screws, but if the base is concrete, you will have to stock up on dowels. Glue is a universal option, it can be used for any surfaces.

If the walls are completely uneven, a frame should be built before attaching the panels. As mentioned earlier, the crate can be wooden or metal. Wood is strong enough, but short-lived material. It quickly rots, especially if there is high humidity in the environment.

The wooden grate, on which the plastic panels are installed, must be treated with antiseptic and antifungal agents before installation. This will help to slightly extend the life of the material. For the construction of such a frame, an absolutely dry beam with a minimum size of 20x20 mm is used.

The metal crate will last much longer. This material does not decay and does not give in to corrosion thanks to a special covering. Also, it is not eaten by rodents or insects, which often happens with a tree.

Training

Before you start mounting the finish on the wall or constructing the frame, you must prepare the surface well. This will determine how firmly the elements will hold, and whether there will be problems with mold. For this:

1. Eliminate all dirty and greasy stains.
2. Remove traces of fungus.
3. If there is an old coating, it is dismantled.
4. Strong irregularities or cracks close up.
5. Treat the surface with a primer.

If the installation of plastic wall panels is carried out without a frame, then you can proceed after the primer has completely dried.

Frame installation rules

A properly installed frame will help to evenly fix the pvc panels and avoid tilting to one side or the other. It is important to consider that the crate should be placed perpendicular to the parts to be laid. That is, if the elements are mounted horizontally, then the frame strips are installed vertically on the wall, and vice versa, if the elements are vertical, then the crate is horizontal.

The first step is to make markings on the walls. This saves a lot of time. The starting line is marked at the bottom of the wall (horizontal frame) or at the corner (vertical). For the first option, be sure to use a level so that the line is perfectly even, for the second - a plumb line.

Next, a finishing mark is made on top of the wall or on the opposite corner. Additional lines are drawn between these two lines. The spacing between them must match the width of the part so that it can be attached. After the markup is completed, you can fix the elements of the crate.

To increase heat and sound insulation, you can install insulation in the cells of the crate before starting to fasten the wall panels.

How to pin elements

Considering that not everyone knows how to properly fix plastic panels, let's look at everything in great detail.

1. First you need to install the start, finish and corner moldings. These are special strips into which parts of the structure are inserted. They help to fix the entire installed canvas and hide the edges.
2. Next, install the first element and fix it with nails or glue. It must be set perfectly evenly, since subsequent parts are attached, relying on the first. In order to check whether everything is correct, you should use a plumb line or building level.
3. Subsequent laying of plastic panels is easy. The spike of one element is inserted into another and fixed. But you need to take into account the fact that when the temperature rises, the material can expand, so do not tighten the screws to the end and do not nail the nails too tightly. Otherwise, the plastic will crack at the attachment point.
4. In order for the joints to be as tight as possible, the edges of the panels are treated with a small amount of sealant.
5. If the panels are fastened to a metal crate, then special clips are used for fixing. They make the process easier.

Mounting with glue

Glue for pvc products is very toxic, so you need to use a respirator when working with it.

Fastening panels to a flat wall with glue is a very quick and convenient way. No additional holes need to be drilled in the wall.

• moldings are also installed first;
• a small amount of glue is applied to the prepared base;
• fasten the first element, slightly pressing against the wall. For good fixation on the surface of the panel, you can walk with a rubber roller. For another 15 minutes, the element can be moved, leveling, but then the glue will harden;
• then all the remaining parts are attached.

Before you fix the wall finishing panels with your own hands, you should carefully prepare and the facade updated in this way will last a very long time. Moreover, this surface does not require special care. Just warm soapy water will suffice.

How to fix plastic panels to the wall: installation rules

There are several ways to attach plastic panels. But you do not need to choose the simplest one, you should choose the one suitable for the material of which the wall consists.

How to fix plastic panels - step by step instructions

Thinking about the repair, we always want to get an excellent result, and at the same time do without extra costs and meet the minimum deadlines. Another important point is that the repair work does not cause a lot of trouble, does not leave behind dirt and does not greatly interfere with the neighbors.

An excellent solution in this case would be the installation of plastic panels. Our instructions will help you understand how to fix plastic panels. They are easily mounted on walls or ceilings and do not need to pre-level the surface.

Plastic panels are easy to care for and are ideal for rooms with high humidity (bathroom, sauna, boiler room). A variety of colors and textures will help create a unique and cozy interior. For the installation of such panels, it is enough to have several tools at hand.

Necessary tool and preliminary preparation

The tools necessary for fixing plastic panels can be found in almost every home:

• electric drill;
• wood saw;
• scissors and a hacksaw for metal;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• tape measure, building level, pencil or marker;
• hammer, stapler;
• ladder.

First, use a tape measure to measure the work surface, this will allow you to correctly calculate the required amount of materials.

The surface must be freed from wallpaper. If the panels are glued, be sure to clean the walls or tiles from paint and dust.

Installation features and procedure

The panels are fastened either directly to the wall or to a crate prepared in advance. To mount on the wall, it must be perfectly flat. The crate is wooden bars or slats that are screwed to the surface at a certain distance from each other. For walls, the width between the rails should not exceed 30 - 40 cm, for the ceiling - no more than 30 cm. The rails for the crate are attached to the wall perpendicular to the direction of the panels.

If the wall to which the rails are attached is wooden or any other wall into which self-tapping screws are easily screwed, then it is best to use them to fasten the bars. If the wall is concrete or brick, then it is best to fasten the bars with dowel-nails or with ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws.

An example of fastening a crate for plastic panels.

Before you get started, you need to understand how to properly attach the plastic panels to the wall.

• If you decide to fasten the panels to the crate with nails, then keep in mind that the reuse of the material will be impossible, since, most likely, the integrity of the panel will be violated during dismantling.
• The best method of fastening is with clamps.
• But the use of staples that are driven in with a special stapler is also a good option.
• Another good option for fastening panels is self-tapping screws.

The most common ways of fastening plastic panels.

After you have decided on the method of fastening the panels, you need to do the following:

First, install the fittings: the final element, the outer or inner corner. If the panel closes the wall to the ceiling, then fix the ceiling plinth to the top beam.

Available types of fittings for plastic panels.

Insert the panel into the fixing element with a narrow fixing flange. The panel is fixed from the side of the wide mounting shelf with nails or brackets.

After making sure that the first panel is level, insert the next one with the narrow end into the groove of the previous panel. Try to mount panels closely to each other.

Installation of the necessary fittings and the first plastic panel.

The last plastic panel that completes the row must be inserted with force between the final element and the previous panel. If the panel needs to be reduced in width, then cut off the excess with a knife, moving along the panel.

Features of mounting plastic panels on walls

If the room is dry and the walls are even, then the panels can be mounted directly on the wall without using the crate.

Fastening panels with glue directly to the walls without using a crate.

In a room with high humidity, a plastic or metal mounting profile should be used as a crate. In this case, the panels are attached to the rails with special clips, which greatly facilitates the installation and dismantling of the structure.

Fastening panels using a plastic profile using special clips.

Consideration should be given to the expansion of the material with temperature changes, so when adjusting the height of the panels, leave a small gap. If a wide beam is used for the crate, then a heater or soundproofing material can be placed in the resulting space between the wall and the panels.

Features of mounting plastic panels on the ceiling

Now consider how to attach plastic panels to the ceiling. Before installation, it is necessary to determine the distance between the panels and the ceiling. This gap will depend on the type of lighting. If you plan to install recessed lights, then the distance should be at least 10-15 cm, so you can completely hide the wiring. Mark in advance with a pencil the places of the lamps, cut out the holes and install the bases of the lighting devices.

Metal crate for mounting plastic panels on the ceiling in the bathroom.

Next, you follow the same steps as when mounting the panels on the walls. In a room with a flat ceiling, you can do without crates. Install the ceiling plinth on three walls before starting work. Use a building level to evenly place the panels.

When installing plastic panels in a damp room, fill the gaps in the ceiling with silicone sealant to ensure complete watertightness.

1. Cut and drill panels face up. For cutting, use a hacksaw, a hand saw or a construction knife. Always wear goggles to protect your eyes.

2. Apply glue directly to the wall. Draw a grid with even lines, leaving no empty areas. Use only special building glue "liquid nails".

3. When driving nails into the panel during installation, be careful not to hit the surface with a hammer, otherwise dents will remain.

4. Clean plastic panels with soapy water. Do not use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads or solvent-based cleaners.

Now you know how to fix plastic panels to the wall and how to care for them. Installing plastic panels does not require much time and is within the power of any beginner. By choosing this easy-to-install material, you can create a unique interior with your own hands. Among the variety of panels that imitate stone, wood, paper of various colors, you are sure to find an option to your liking.

How to fix plastic panels to the ceiling or wall correctly and without errors

Step-by-step instructions will help you decide how to mount plastic panels on walls or ceilings, you will learn how to mount, various tips and nuances.

How to fix plastic panels to the wall with your own hands: detailed instructions

If you are thinking about decorating walls or ceilings in the bathroom, hallway, kitchen, balcony or other areas with high humidity, pay attention to PVC panels. This is the best choice for price, practicality and quality. They wash well, do not fade and do not deform from moisture. And the biggest plus is the simple installation of panels. They are ideal for leveling walls and give you the opportunity to realize many design ideas. How to fix plastic panels to the wall: all the subtleties and nuances.

Necessary materials and tools

Plastic panels are quite easy to install, so it is possible to sheathe the walls or ceiling with your own hands. To make the installation yourself, you will need the following tools:

1. Drill or perforator depending on the walls to be paneled. For a brick and concrete wall, it is better to take a puncher; for the rest, a drill is suitable.
2. Metal shears will be required for cutting a metal profile, you can use a grinder.
3. Screwdriver. Needed to connect frame parts and fasten PVC panels to the profile.
4. A stapler and staples will be needed if plastic is attached to a wooden crate.
5. Construction knife or hacksaw - for cutting panels and moldings.
6. Miter box - an indispensable tool for proper cutting at the right angle.
7. Roulette, marker, level. For small building work.

If the desired tool is ready, you can go to purchase finishing materials. You will need:

• plastic panels;
• rails for fixing plastic;
• metal profile and accessories for it or wooden beam 20x40 mm;
• dowels, self-tapping screws.

But before making purchases, you should take measurements of the room and calculate the required amount of materials for future decoration.

Calculation of materials for installation

Plastic panels are produced in various colors and sizes. Most often, the length of the panels is 2.7, 3 or 6 m, and the width is 10, 25, 37.5 and 50 cm. The thickness of the panels is 8 or 10 mm. Therefore, having decided on the choice of plastic and the dimensions of the walls, you can make the necessary calculation of the amount of material.

To do this, it is necessary to make measurements of the length and width of each wall, determine the direction of laying plastic panels (along the wall or across) and calculate the consumption according to these dimensions.

To install the crate, it is worth purchasing a metal profile or a wooden beam.

Fixing plastic panels to walls

PVC panels can be finished in two ways:

• on the frame (recommended for large uneven walls)
• on glue or liquid nails.

Installation of plastic panels using a metal or wooden frame.

To finish the walls with plastic panels, a frame made of metal or wood is required. Before installation, we clean the walls of excess dirt and dust, treat them with a special antifungal agent and draw a grid of battens on the wall using a level. We set the gap between the rails to be 40 - 50 cm. We drill holes along the marking lines at a distance of 50 cm and fasten the profile to the wall with suitable fasteners.

For relatively flat walls (difference no more than 5 mm), you can make a frame from a wooden beam, and for very crooked ones, it is better to use a metal profile, since it can be fixed at some distance from the wall using special fittings. After you have made sure that the crate is securely installed, you can proceed to the fine finish.

It is better to start work from the corner farthest from the entrance, as this is the most noticeable part of the room and any pruning will be very noticeable. First, the starting strip is attached at the bottom and top of the crate, and on the side - the inner (outer) corner, depending on the installation location. These slats perform the function of fixing the plastic and hide the unaesthetic appearance of the panel cuts. After that, you can mount the plastic. We cut off the panel of the desired size (about 0.5 cm less, taking into account the deformation from temperature changes) and insert it into the guides, first at the top and bottom, and then on the side. We fix the plastic with a screwdriver or a stapler in each strip of the crate. We fasten the following strips accordingly.

The most difficult stage is the installation of the last panel. To do this, cut the panel 0.5 cm smaller than the required size. We insert it first into the corner profile, and then snap it into the groove of the previous panel. So you do not deform the guides and carefully finish mounting on the wall.

Home heating solution: electric boiler

Installation of PVC panels on special glue or liquid nails.

If your house has perfectly smooth walls, it is possible to install plastic panels without a frame. This method has many advantages and practically no disadvantages:

• saving space (which is important for small rooms);
• lack of dirt and dust during installation;
• fast installation;
• lower costs (no need to buy materials for the frame);
• no special skills needed.

For this method of mounting plastic panels, careful preparation of the walls is required. Clean them of foreign objects (wallpaper, old paint, crumbling putty), repair visible irregularities and primer. Now you can attach the panels. If the wall allows, during the installation process, you need to fix the panel with one self-tapping screw to the wall approximately in the middle - this will provide a more reliable fastening. In the corners of the room, a special flexible corner is glued, the dimensions of which vary from 2 to 5 cm. It gives the room completeness, forms the inner and outer corners and hides the curvature of the corners.

This method of installation has only one drawback - you can not hide the wiring and install built-in lights. Therefore, the choice is yours.

Fixing plastic panels to the ceiling

One of the advantages of using PVC panels on the ceiling is the ability to hide wiring, exhaust pipes and other communications, as well as place built-in lighting.

For the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling, a special frame made of metal profiles is used (it gives more opportunities for embedding various communications through the use of various special fittings (suspensions, crabs, etc.), and does not deform from moisture, unlike wood). Before installing the frame, it is worth preparing the surface of the ceiling (clean it of old paint, whitewash, peeling plaster and dust, treat it with an antifungal coating to avoid the development of fungus in the room).

First, using a level, we make markings on the walls of the room at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the ceiling. Next, we install the grid elements at an interval of 30 - 40 cm from each other. At a greater distance, the plastic may sag. Further along the perimeter we fix the starting profile or a special baguette for plastic, it is better to trim the corners with the help of a miter box or right at the installation site with a construction knife. Now install plastic panels.

How to fix plastic panels to the wall - recommendations for self-installation

How to fix plastic panels to the wall, a description of the process. Possible mounting methods. Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling. Recommendations for self

How to properly fix plastic panels to the wall: with and without crates

In skillful hands, wall cladding with plastic panels resembles assembling crafts from a children's designer: the same pleasant-to-touch details, the same principles for attaching PVC panels: either with glue on a pre-prepared surface, or with bolts on a pre-prepared frame.

But if you look closely, each method of their installation will have its own nuances that must be taken into account.

Do-it-yourself frame method for mounting plastic panels

The essence of this method is to fix the panels with your own hands on a special frame, called a crate. Its main difficulty is to correctly calculate the upper and lower levels of the crate, which must run strictly parallel to each other: the uniform distribution of the guides on which the PVC panels will subsequently be attached depends on this.

However, this does not mean that additional preparation is not needed for such installation. The latter directly depends on the purpose of the room.

In rooms with stable temperature and humidity - such as, as a rule, are living rooms - it is enough to simply remove the old peeling coating from the walls with a spatula, carefully inspect for cracks, crevices and chips and, if necessary, seal them with putty or plaster.

If temperature fluctuations and humidity are common in the room (remember, for example, bathrooms, kitchens, balconies), additional waterproofing of the walls will be required.

The waterproofing layer is applied with a roller or a paint brush on pre-moistened walls. And after it dries, the walls are treated with an anti-mold and fungus agent.

Most often, the crate is made either of wood or metal.

Wooden blocks of at least 20x20mm in thickness are cheaper, but they are less durable and not suitable for rooms with a high level of humidity. Therefore, before use, they must be properly dried (the permissible moisture content of the tree should not exceed 12-15%) and be sure to treat with an antiseptic to protect against decay and insects.

The metal profile is more expensive, but suitable for any premises, stronger and more durable. At the same time, a UD profile is distinguished, with the help of which the crate contour is formed, and a CD profile inserted into it, which serves as intermediate elements (guides).

But regardless of the material before its installation, you need to stock up:

• building level and plumb - to determine the position of the main elements of the crate;
• dowels - for attaching it to the wall;
• screws - for fastening its elements to each other;
• tape measure - to measure the distance between the guides;
• material for substrates under the guides - wood or thick plywood;
• screwdriver and drill - to facilitate the work.

To cut a metal profile, you will need metal scissors. For additional work with wooden blocks - a saw with medium teeth, a chisel, a mallet.

Mounting the batten to the wall

The installation of the crate can be divided into several stages

Marking the frame for wall panels

It begins with the definition of the lower level, which runs along the floor in such a way that subsequently a plinth can be screwed onto it. In this case, the “reference point” is the most protruding part of the wall: focusing on it, they determine the distance by which the crate will subsequently recede from the wall.

Then comes the determination of the upper level, passing along the intended height of the ceiling, and then the side levels. When setting the upper and lower levels, it is necessary to use the building level, and when setting the side levels - a plumb line.

Bringing the frame to the proper level

In general, all levels are not attached to the walls closely, but on direct suspensions, observing the necessary indentation. The outer edges of the batten should be at the same level, which can be adjusted either by grinding the battens of the batten or by substrates.

The distance between the screws on which the profile is attached should be 20-25 cm for a wooden profile and 15-25 cm for a metal profile.

Fastening rails inside the frame frame

To begin with, they cover all the protruding elements of the wall, as well as window and door openings.

The purpose of this action is to securely fasten the edges of the skin elements along their boundaries. Then intermediate profiles are mounted.

When installing them, it is necessary to take into account how the PVC panels will be attached - horizontally or vertically: they are fixed perpendicular to the guides.

Wooden bars (for wooden crates) and CD profiles (for metal) are inserted into the frame frame and fixed with screws along the edges. To give the metal profile additional rigidity, it is recommended to use U-shaped profiles - they are screwed to its guides after the profile is installed and fixed.

Naturally, when carrying out this type of work, do not forget to use the building level. But here the crate is ready. And it's time to start installing PVC panels.

How to fix?

To do this, stock up:

• plastic panels, which, before starting work, must “acclimatize” by staying in the room intended for decoration for at least a day;
• moldings, that is, special corner profiles that ensure smooth joining;
• clamps - special brackets for fastening;
• a building level that helps to determine the location of the first PVC panel on the crate as accurately as possible, serving as a guide for further installation;
• with a special knife or saw for metal for cutting panels.

The installation of PVC panels does not begin with the installation of moldings - internal and external: it is from them that you will have to build on in the future.

The first panel is installed with a spike in the profile, attaching it to the crate with the help of clamps. The second panel is installed in the groove of the previous one and fastened in the same way. Thus, they reach the end of the wall.

The latter is cut in such a way that it can be installed all the way to the finishing corner, while the distance between its spike and the groove of the previous panel should be 2-3 mm.

The cut edge is inserted into the profile, then the panel is pulled out and connected to the previous panel.

If it is necessary to hide the moldings, the installation technology of plastic wall panels becomes more complicated. The first panel is attached strictly in the very corner, the next - close to it. A spike is removed on one of the corner panels, as a result, a groove appears on the end.

This panel is pushed onto the hook brackets installed on the second profile. The next corner panel is inserted into the starting profile.

Installation of PVC panels without crates

The essence of mounting panels without crates is to glue the panels directly to the wall. And its main difficulty is in the preparation of the walls, which require careful alignment, and the correct selection of the adhesive composition.

The initial preparation of the walls is the same as with the frame method: the old coating is removed and the cracks are sealed. Of course, it is difficult to perfectly align the wall, however, the allowable size of drops, bumps and pits should not exceed 5 mm, otherwise the plastic may peel off or be damaged.

And taking into account the fact that a dusty, dirty and greasy surface is not able to provide sufficient adhesion to any glue, there is a need for high-quality cleaning of the walls: washing off the whitewash, removing grease with detergents, priming.

The range of glue on the modern market is great. For do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels, universal tools such as Kleiberit 636, Emfikol 34012A or Crystal Moment are perfect, but it is best to use glue designed specifically for gluing plastic. Good glue:

• after drying, it becomes transparent and forms a film layer;
• not afraid of moisture, frost and temperature changes;
• bonds surfaces for a long period and sets quickly.

It provides too rigid fixation and, "interacting" with plastic, which has a considerable coefficient of thermal expansion, deprives the panels made of it of free play, thereby contributing to their separation from the walls.

More reliable non-expanding polyurethane sealant and liquid nails - their sufficient plasticity does not allow the panel to come off the wall during temperature fluctuations.

PVC panels are glued to the wall as follows:

• the panel is taken and the back side is wiped with a damp cloth to remove dust;
• glue is applied on the back side in a dotted way, the distance between the drops of which varies from 25 cm to 35 cm;
• then the panel is applied to the wall.

If liquid nails were used when trying to glue it, it is better to tap it and tear it off: this type of glue requires weathering for 5-7 minutes - only then it will acquire additional rigidity and will not allow the panel to lag behind the wall after pressing it again until it is completely dry.

They simply stick on transparent silicone, wiping with a damp cloth to remove excess silicone. The size of such inserts ranges from 20 mm to 50 mm, depending on the curvature of the corners. If it is required to glue PVC panels around the outlet, the place for the outlet is pre-cut out, and the electricity is turned off.

At the last stage of installation, floor and ceiling plinths are installed, which are fastened with self-tapping screws. The joints between the panels are processed with mounting foam or transparent silicone sealant (the latter is preferable in rooms with high humidity).

Latest materials

When repairing the balcony, I decided to finish the walls with plastic panels. And although I have never worked with this material, I ventured to try. It turned out that there is nothing complicated in working with PVC panels. I used a metal crate, the main thing is to mount it correctly, observing all levels. And then further work is not difficult. The panels are mounted quickly, without any experience I did all the work in one day.

After the granny, the apartment was inherited, naturally not in the best condition, so we decided to make a small repair. The husband offered to finish the toilet with pvc panels, not expensive and neat. We found a master on the ad, in the end, we got a very nice toilet, but what was our surprise when we saw that on one wall, the panels were attached upside down)) This “jamb” did not immediately catch my eye, but then it became a shame, after all, we gave normal money for work, and hoped to accept quality work. After all that has happened, dear friends, I can advise you to hire craftsmen only on the recommendations of friends or from decent repair companies!

How to fix plastic panels to the wall: basic do-it-yourself mounting methods

Correctly fixing PVC panels at first glance is quite simple. However, this work has its own nuances, depending on the condition of the walls, on the method used and on the availability of certain knowledge on working with plastic as such.

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How to fix PVC panels to the ceiling - 4 proven options

Plastic trim now has both supporters who admire its beauty and practicality, and opponents who believe that artificial materials have no place in the house. I'm not going to philosophize on this topic now, but if you need to finish the ceiling quickly, inexpensively and with good results, then plastic is a worthy choice. In this material, I will try to describe in detail how to properly fix PVC panels to the ceiling in four proven ways, and you yourself choose what suits you best.

I must say right away that the very fastening of plastic panels to the ceiling in all four ways is not much different. In this case, we will talk about creating the basis for such a coating. But first, let's deal with the preparation for the main process.

What to consider when preparing

Before going to the store, please note that there are PVC panels for the ceiling and there are plastic panels for the walls. If everything is correctly mounted, then in appearance they will look exactly the same.

The differences lie in the features. Facing for the ceiling is traditionally made lighter and thinner, so as not to load the suspension with extra pounds. At the same time, wall decoration is able to withstand higher mechanical and point loads.

Of course, on a good basis, you can safely mount both ceiling and wall panels. But think about whether you need increased strength on the ceiling. After all, no one will hurt him with his elbows, and the claws of pets will not get there either. But you will have to pay more money, because the price of wall plastic is at least 30% higher.

Now a few words about what panels are. Without going deep into the wilds, 2 main areas can be distinguished: these are seam and seamless panels.

Seam panels, for external similarity, are also commonly called plastic clapboard, as a rule, they are cheaper. But not every interior is suitable.

In most cases, people prefer to veneer the ceilings of residential premises with seamless panels with a glossy finish. Naturally, upon closer examination, the connecting seam is easy to notice. But believe me, such ceilings look much more spectacular.

The width of standard panels ranges from 250 to 500 mm. The length, depending on the specific model and manufacturer, can be from 2.7 to 6.0 m. Of course, there is also a plastic lining with a width of 100 to 200 mm, but I do not recommend it to you, since it looks rather mediocre on the ceiling.

And don't forget the accessories. If you are limited only to the ceiling, then you will need a ceiling plinth to equip the perimeter. There is a small nuance here: when the walls are even, it is better to take a specialized decorative plastic plinth with a mounting groove.

If there is a “wave” along the wall, then against the background of a flat plinth, this curvature will be too noticeable. In this case, I recommend taking a regular U-shaped starting profile, and in addition to it, glue a flexible vinyl ceiling plinth on top.

Among such accessories there is also an H-shaped docking profile. Even if you are not going to dock anything, I recommend that you take at least one bar in reserve. It costs a penny, but it can help out well if you have to repair some segment of the ceiling.

Equipping the base

As I said, fastening the panels to the base is the same everywhere. It is much more important to prepare this very foundation well. In general, there are 4 types of bases for such a cladding:

1. Metal frame assembled from UD and CD profiles;
2. Wooden frame;
3. Installation of panels on plastic rails with movable clamps;
4. Bonding panels directly to the ceiling.

Option number 1. We assemble the iron frame

The frame made of galvanized profiles is the most reliable, strong and durable version of the ceiling cladding. Of course, the arrangement of such a design, in comparison with all other basics, requires time and financial investments.

But take my word for it, the metal frame is worth the sacrifice. After all, if one day you get tired of plastic, then you can dismantle it with your own hands in a couple of hours. But instead of it, you can already install whatever you want, drywall sheets, MDF panels, wooden lining and many other worthy facing materials.

I am sure that you have seen such constructions more than once, but you probably thought that it was too complicated, at least I, until I mastered this science myself, thought that way. Do not worry, there is nothing here that would require fundamental knowledge in the field of construction. If you are not afraid of a drill, a screwdriver and a grinder, then this instruction is quite up to you.

In fact, the only drawback of a suspended metal frame is that it will make your ceiling lower by at least 5 - 7 cm. For homeowners with ceilings from 3m and above, this detail often does not play any role. But the owners of Khrushchev have something to think about.

Any similar design is assembled from 2 types of galvanized metal profile. This is the so-called UD profile, in the domestic marking PN (guide profile), and CD profile, in our PP classification (ceiling profile).

In addition to the profiles themselves, you will also need perforated metal hangers and, of course, “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors, this already depends on the type of base. Between themselves, metal profiles and suspensions are fixed with the help of small self-tapping screws for metal. In the people they are called fleas or bugs, as someone is used to.

By the way, we will also mount the plastic lining on 4.2x16 mm self-tapping screws. My advice to you, take at least 100 - 200 pieces at once, they will not be superfluous on the farm.

When purchasing material for such work, you need to take at least 10% more. This 10% is usually spent on pruning, marriage and other unforeseen circumstances. Plus, it's always better to have a small spare in case of an emergency repair.

From the obligatory tool you will need a screwdriver and a drill or a hammer drill. Metal profiles can be cut with a grinder, but, for example, it is more convenient for me to work with metal shears.

It's good if you have a laser level, but this tool is professional and the price is fantastic. Therefore, instead of it, a hydraulic level is often used.

Do not confuse the hydraulic level and the usual building level. The hydro level is a long transparent tube into which water is poured, this device works on the principle of communicating vessels and has flasks with graduations along the edges. Its price is not high, so it is better to buy, it will not be superfluous.

• Naturally, work on the installation of any frame begins with marking. In this case, we will need to find in which direction the ceiling is “littered”. The fact is that all ceilings seem to be strictly horizontal, only until you start measuring them. In 90% of cases, there are necessarily differences in the corners. And we need to find the lowest corner. This is where the laser or hydraulic level comes in handy;

• Having found the “littered” corner, you need to measure 50 mm down from it, this will be the level of the plane of our future ceiling. When constructing suspended ceilings of this type, 50 mm is the minimum, but if it is planned to install a heater on the ceiling or any communications pass through it, then the depth can be done more;
• Further, starting from the marked corner, you will need to transfer this horizon to the entire room. This is where the hydraulic level comes in handy again. It will be necessary to mark adjacent points in the corners, then rub the cord with chalk, pull it along the wall between the marking points and beat off the horizontal;
• A UD (PN) profile will be installed along this horizontal line, it will pass along the lower cut of the profile. The profile itself is attached to the wall with “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors with a pitch of about 60 - 80 cm. Moreover, so that both of its wings are directed inside the room, since later we will insert a CD (PP) profile into this groove;
• Now let's talk about how to attach a CD (PP) profile, we will have it as the basis for PVC panels. Again, you first need to mark the installation sites of the carrier profiles;

Remember, the carrier profile and PVC panels should be perpendicular to each other, and it doesn’t matter what the profile is made of, metal, wood or plastic. By the way, not only plastic is mounted this way, any longitudinal panels, be it MDF, lining or siding, are also attached perpendicular to the rails.

• As I said, the CD (PP) profile will be inserted into the opposite grooves of the UD (PN) profile, but one such fastening is not enough, so the CD (PP) profile will still need to be hung on perforated suspensions to the ceiling;
• Perforated hangers are fixed to the ceiling with the same dowels "Quick installation" or anchor bolts. But in order for them to pass clearly above the CD (PP) profile on the ceiling, a straight line should be beaten off with a coated cord;
• After marking, you can proceed with the installation of suspensions according to this markup.. For plastic, it is enough to install hangers at a distance of 80 cm. But I usually mount them more often, at a distance of about 60 cm. This is in case the owners then want to sheathe the ceiling with heavier material instead of plastic, for example, MDF panels or clapboard;

• Then everything is simple. We insert the CD (PP) profile into the grooves of the UD (PN) profile, bend down the wings of the perforated hangers and fix the structure at all points of contact with small self-tapping screws. That's all, your frame is ready and you can start installing plastic panels on it.

Option number 2. We mount a wooden crate on the ceiling

Compared to the above option, it is much easier to mount a wooden crate. But it has both its pros and cons.

Of the advantages, one can point to ease of installation and lower cost of construction. A wooden frame will cost you less than a metal frame by more than 2 times.

But it is extremely undesirable to mount wood in damp rooms, for example, in services. Modern impregnations will still protect against mold and fungus, but in this case there is no protection against deformation during temperature and humidity changes.

There is one more nuance here, perfectly even dry bars are expensive. And if you take a budget option, then almost all the slats are slightly crooked. Accordingly, in order to bring such a frame to mind, you will have to tinker a lot. The cross section of the bar starts from 25x25 mm, if you take it thinner, it can split.

In this case, the wooden bars of the frame are attached directly to the ceiling, on self-tapping screws or anchors in increments of 60 - 80 cm. According to the rules, it is also supposed to display the plane strictly according to the level.

But if the ceiling is visually even, then you can simply fill the bars of the crate on it and not bother with bringing it to zero. After all, if a slight curvature was not visible before the beginning of the lining, then it will not be noticeable after its completion.

If there are large defects on the ceiling, then wooden wedges will help you here. Personally, I, according to the level strictly horizontally, with the help of wedges, first set 2 extreme strips.

After that, between them I pull 3 nylon cords (along the edges and in the center) and already along these cords I install the remaining laths of the crate. The distance between the planks of the wooden crate is maintained in the region of half a meter.

Option number 3. Installing a plastic crate

Plastic crate thing is very comfortable and very durable. But the problem is that it will cost no less than the installation of a metal frame. At the same time, you can fix only plastic PVC panels on such a base. No other facing material can be hung on it.

The plank of such a crate is a U-shaped profile with edges bent inward. Kleimers move along such a kind of guide, with the help of which the plastic panel is actually fixed.

To the ceiling, they are attached according to the same principle as the wooden crate. Only compared to wood, plastic is less durable, and if you have to use wooden wedges for, then the fixing screws or anchors are driven into the ceiling through the wedge.

This is important, because if the fixation point is in a different place, then if the wooden wedges are deformed, the expensive plastic battens may crack.

A big plus of this version of the crate is not only that it is easy and quick to mount plastic on it, if necessary, you can also quickly disassemble this entire structure.

Moreover, both the plastic panels and the lathing slats will remain in their original form, and all this beauty can also be assembled elsewhere.

Option number 4. "Liquid nails" to help you

The vast majority of ceilings in urban apartments are reinforced concrete floor slabs. And if it is good to putty the joints between these plates, then you will get a perfectly flat ceiling.

It is not necessary to mount any crate on it; plastic panels can simply be glued to such a base on a construction adhesive called "Liquid Nails". Theoretically, you can take another glue, but, as far as I have come across, this is the one that is used.

Working with Liquid Nails glue has its own characteristics and it is better to take them into account, especially when it comes to ceiling work. If you simply lubricate the panel with glue and press it to the ceiling, then in this position you will have to stand and wait for the glue to set for at least half an hour. Agree, the prospect is not rosy.

You need to act differently:

• After lubricating the panel with glue, it is pressed against the ceiling so that the glue spreads and immediately comes off;
• Further, this panel is set aside and aged for 5 - 7 minutes;
• And only after that the plastic will easily, quickly and firmly stick to the ceiling.

“Liquid nails” glue is certainly good, but in order for it to firmly grasp on a concrete base, this very base should be primed. As a rule, 2 layers of standard deep penetration primer "Betonkontakt" are enough.

Of course, gluing panels to reinforced concrete floor slabs is fast, simple and inexpensive, and most importantly, it does not make ceilings lower. But I think you understand that it will no longer be possible to dismantle such a lining without damaging it. Basically, it's a one-time option.

Technique for mounting plastic panels

Now it's time to talk about how to fix plastic panels to the ceiling. Regardless of the length, width and thickness, all these panels are connected according to the tenon-groove principle.

But first you need to fix the starting profile around the perimeter of the room, into which the plastic panels will be inserted. I already mentioned above that if the walls of the room are even, then it makes sense to use a plastic ceiling plinth with a mounting groove as a starting profile.

The fastening of the ceiling plinth with the mounting groove is carried out in the same way as the fixing of the plastic panels themselves. That is:

• If you have a metal frame, then the plinth is attached to it with self-tapping screws;
• A plinth or starting profile can be screwed to a wooden frame either on self-tapping screws or “shoot” with staples of a construction stapler;
• On plastic guides, it is fixed with clamps;
• Well, to a flat ceiling it is simply glued to the "Liquid Nails".

Both in the ceiling plinth with a mounting groove and in the U-shaped starting profile, the lower support bar is specially made wider. It is in this extension that self-tapping screws or staples of a construction stapler are driven.

When the starting profile is mounted, you can proceed with the installation of the plastic panels themselves. The first panel is inserted with a spike inside the starting profile, and on the reverse side, the lower edge of the groove is fixed on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or clamp.

The next plastic panel is mounted in the same way. We insert the spike of the new panel into the groove of the previous one, press it against the guides and fix it at the back. As you can see, the instructions are extremely simple.

But most novice craftsmen often have a problem with how to fix the last panel on the ceiling. This issue is easily solved:

• First, we measure the distance from the penultimate panel to the edge of the starting profile, from this value we recline 5 - 7 mm and cut off our last panel;
• Next, we start the extreme panel with a cut into the starting profile, until it stops. As a result, the panel will become flush with the previous one;
• And now we are carefully trying to push the spike of our trimmed panel into the groove of the previous one. As a rule, after several attempts, everything falls into place.

The depth of the U-shaped starting profile or plinth with a mounting groove fluctuates around 10 - 20 mm, so the gap between the edge of the plinth and the trimmed plank will not be visible.

There is one more nuance in the question of how to fix the ceiling plinth for plastic panels. It is not so important whether you stick it or screw it on with self-tapping screws, a decent look largely depends on how accurately you join it in the corners.

Most instructions recommend simply taking a carpenter's miter box and "cutting" adjacent 45º corners. But in our houses, not all corners have a clear 90º, and if the angle is turned or vice versa is sharp, then the standard carpentry miter box is generally useless.

I do it quite differently. First, the plinth is applied to one side of the corner and lines are drawn along it on the ceiling and on the wall.

And then the same procedure must be done on the adjacent part of the corner. As a result, you get 2 intersection points, which will serve as guidelines for cutting the ceiling plinth.

Tip: the installation of electrical equipment is indirectly related to the ceiling lining. But my advice to you, if you are wiring under the skin, then before installing the plastic, assemble the circuit and check if it works. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything later.

Conclusion

Cladding the ceiling with plastic with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first. See the photos and videos in this article for more tips and tricks. And if you have any questions, leave them in the comments, I will try to help.

The modern market offers a huge number of varieties, sizes and design options for PVC panels, so they can be matched to any interior style. PVC panels are inexpensive, quickly mounted, operated for a long time, and most importantly, they will help to equip a unique, unlike anything room design. How to fix plastic panels to the wall: on glue, on screws, on the crate? Which panels to choose and which installation method to prefer, we will analyze all these issues in detail in our article.

Why PVC bathroom panels have become the number one competitor to tiles? It's all about ease of installation. Laying tiles even on the most even base is beyond the power of a person who has never done this. You will need the services of a specialist to level and strengthen the base, mark the wall and lay out the tiles row by row, observing the levels and width of the tile joint. In addition, the cutting of tiles itself, if necessary, requires special tools and certain skills.

With PVC panels, everything is much simpler. They have a lot of advantages:

1. Light in weight: their transportation to the house and installation do not cause any difficulties.
2. Exists several mounting methods from simple wall stickers to purlin systems, each of which can be handled even by a layman.
3. Panels biologically sustainable and during operation, the appearance of fungus on them is excluded.

In addition, it is possible to note such advantages of plastic products as moisture resistance, hygiene, duration of operation and inexpensive cost. Of course, they also have their own characteristics. For example, despite the presence of stiffeners in the design of the product and the thickness of the plastic, which is quite large for some manufacturers, the panels are quite brittle material. and with an accidental strong point impact, they can break through. Therefore, when buying, you need to choose the most durable products of European manufacturers.

However, if the lining is of good quality, then when bathing, for example, you can rely on it as much as you like: it has sufficient flexibility and elasticity to support the weight of a person.

When choosing products, you should look at such technical characteristics as:

• plastic thickness (the more, the more reliable);
• the presence and number of stiffeners;
• when viewed under artificial lighting on the front plane, transverse ribs should not be visible;
• the surface must be intact, undamaged, not scratched, the film on the front plane must not be damaged;
• plastic from the ends should not be with burrs and microcracks.

There are several types of PVC panels, differing in size and other parameters.

Table 1. Types of PVC panels.

Name	Peculiarities	Dimensions
Ceiling	Thinner thicknesses up to 5 mm
Wall	Thicker and tougher up to 10mm thick	width 15-50 mm, length 90-300 mm
Rack	Narrow planks with shaped edges, similar to lining, have a thorn-groove locking connection	width 13-50 mm, length 90-300 mm
leafy	Large rectangular sheets with a relief or pattern on the outside	width 50-122 mm, length 30-98 mm
Tiled	Tile	width 30-98 mm, length 30-98 mm
Sandwich	Double-layer, with a heat-insulating layer, the thickness can reach 4 cm	width 90-150 mm, length 300 mm

In width, standard wall panels are most often found 25cm and 37cm, length - 2700cm, 3000cm. Different manufacturers may produce products of different sizes. The difference in price depends on various factors: the quality and thickness of the plastic, the type of decor printing, its complexity, etc.

Polyvinyl chloride panels are divided into several types according to their coating. They are:

• monochrome;
• colored, with a dye added to the mass;
• mirror;
• with an image pasted on a thermal film;
• with a pattern applied by offset;
• with one image spaced into several panels, forming a panel.

According to the method of connection, the products can be seamless and with a recess. Of course, when joining seamless panels, the seam still remains visible, but hardly noticeable. If the products are chamfered, then the seams are more highlighted and create a certain geometry of the room.

In addition, a wide range of accessories for fastening elements is offered: start and F-shaped profiles, internal and external corners, joint profiles, skirting boards. The use of fittings allows you to give an aesthetic appearance to the joints, and of course it is used for a more reliable and simple fastening.

Find out what types, and also read the step-by-step instructions for finishing in a special article on our portal.

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Wall panels

Installation

To carry out the calculation, you first need to determine the direction of installation. Products can be attached horizontally and vertically. Vertical placement is preferred for small spaces such as hallways, kitchens, and bathrooms. With this method of finishing, the ceiling visually rises due to vertical lines. Horizontal installation is more often used for finishing spacious rooms, for example, at camp sites, in hostels. It resembles a traditional horizontal finish, especially if the panels are matched, for example, under a tree.

Panels can be fixed in three ways:

• on any adhesive composition;
• on self-tapping screws;
• on the crate.

The first method is the easiest, simplest and fastest, but only applies if the base is sufficiently level. The second is also not particularly difficult, but requires skill in handling a screwdriver. In this case, the panels can be dismantled over time and moved to another location. The method of fastening to the crate is the most durable, time-consuming and capital. Thus, the cladding can be firmly mounted on uneven surfaces.

The selected mounting option does not affect the order of events when mounting the plates directly:

• fittings are installed: initial and finishing strip, internal and external corners;
• fittings are installed along the openings;
• the panel is inserted with a narrow shelf into the fastening element. Fastened from the side of a wide shelf with self-tapping screws. Elements must be mounted tightly;
• the final panel must be squeezed between the one in front of it and the finishing element of the row. The excess can be trimmed neatly along with a knife;
• joints with the ceiling are covered with ceiling, joints with the floor - with floor plinths.

How to glue panels

Bonding - the easiest way finishing the room with panels, which is allowed either in the event that when the wall is perfectly flat or when the leased premises are being renovated according to the principle and so it will do, clean and okay. It will be quite difficult to dismantle such a finish in the future and it certainly will not be possible to use it for re-assembly.

The panels are glued to a flat or slightly uneven base. Previously, to improve adhesion, it is necessary to remove and clean out all the bumps and weak layers of the previous finish. Then plaster and putty uneven places. Then prime the surface to improve adhesion. The finished base for gluing the cladding must be even, dry, clean.

Apply the adhesive to the wall, spread it evenly with a notched trowel and gently press the panel against the wall. The duration and force of pressing usually depend on the adhesive and are indicated on the packaging or in the instructions for use. Also apply glue to the next panel, then it should be carefully docked with the previous one and pressed to the base. Thus, you can quickly get a beautiful decorative coating.

Video - Installation of PVC panels with glue

As for the adhesive for panels, modern manufacturers offer just a huge selection of adhesives. You can list the most popular:

• quality liquid nails;
• liquid nails and Titan Wild glue;
• Emfikol 34012A;
• Kleiberit 636.

Prices for liquid nails

Liquid Nails

The above adhesives are resistant to high humidity and temperature fluctuations. The facing materials glued to them will hold for the entire period of operation.

Advice! If there is a choice, it is better to choose the most quickly setting adhesives - for example, liquid nails. Then you don't have to wait for a while until the first panel grabs to start gluing the second one.

Installation of PVC panels on self-tapping screws

This mounting method also includes a sufficiently level base. Although the requirements for the surface condition are less than when working with glue. No need to remove greasy stains from the wall and treat it with a primer to increase adhesion. However, to improve the quality of work and increase the speed of installation, a screwdriver is required. However, today screwdrivers can be bought even for one and a half thousand rubles, so this installation method can be called quite budgetary.

As for self-tapping screws, you can opt for wood screws with a wide notch. Length 16 mm will ensure proper fixation to the wall. If finishing is planned bathroom, you should opt for galvanized, that won't rust during operation. Do not choose self-tapping screws with a wide hat, it can interfere with docking.

The process itself is extremely simple. From the inside, the screws are screwed into the bottom of the lock, where they will not interfere with the fixation of the next panel. The next strip is inserted into the lock, pressed and fastened with self-tapping screws from the inside. All subsequent parts are attached in the same way.

Attention! Be sure to check where the wiring goes in the wall. To do this, you can use inexpensive devices such as indicator screwdrivers, signaling devices or metal detectors.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

How to fix panels to an uneven wall on a crate - step by step instructions

If the wall is very uneven, and living in the apartment is supposed to be long, you can’t do without crates. There are 3 types of crate systems: wooden, metal and plastic. Wooden - this is an option for the most extreme case. The tree is not suitable for the bathroom - it will swell from moisture, for the same reason you should not use it on the loggia. Therefore, the best option is galvanized profiles for drywall with a width 40mm.

The only drawback of the traditional crate fastening is that it eats 3-4 cm of usable area at each wall. But under it, you can lay communication cables, as well as make a soundproof layer in the apartment or a heat-insulating layer on the loggia.

A good variety of a convenient and easy-to-assemble crate system is plastic mounting strips and plates - kleimers. This is a special fastening system designed for PVC cladding. Fastening is carried out as quickly and simply as possible: the plate snaps into the groove on the profile with clamps. No other fastener is used. If necessary, such a finish is instantly disassembled: just pry it with a screwdriver. Installation of the entire cladding in a room of 15 squares with such a system will take no more than a day.

The advantages of plastic crates are obvious. Firstly, in case of damage to one panel, it can be pulled out and replaced for this no need to disassemble the whole structure. Secondly, if the house shrinks, or if it is a country house, and also during seasonal shifts cladding will retain its solidity. Thirdly, such a crate eats only 1 centimeter from every wall.

For bathrooms and kitchens, the best option is a ready-made plastic crate system sold in construction departments. It does not deform due to high humidity and temperature fluctuations, does not rot or crack. Galvanization is also a great solution to the problem. It is also permissible to use wood blocks, but before starting work, they must be treated several times with special impregnations from decay.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to mount the crate:

Step 1. We clean the wall from crumbling old finishes. You don't need to level it.

Step 2 We process the surface of the wall with antifungal compounds.

Step 3 We mark the places for the slats of the crate structure. They should be perpendicular to the PVC panels. If they are mounted vertically, then the crate is mounted horizontally. The spacing of the bars should be 30-35 cm.

Step 4 We fasten the bars at the beginning and at the end of the wall, around openings, niches and other structural elements of the room. Then the rest. The whole system is attached to the dowels. V concrete put 6*40mm, v brick 6*60mm in increments of about 60cm.

Step 5 We align the crate with a plumb line in one plane. To do this, at first the fasteners are not completely twisted, and if necessary, thin plywood is stuck under the planks to the required level. After alignment, the fasteners can be tightened. For attachment, you can use hangers for plasterboard. With them it is easier to level the surface of the crate.

Step 6 If the system is assembled from plastic elements, it is necessary to check their perpendicularity to the PVC panels, otherwise there is a risk that the locks will not snap into place. It will be more convenient to work with a plastic crate if wooden bars are installed around the perimeter of the entire wall being trimmed along the thickness of the guides.

Prices for building levels

Building levels

Now you can consider how the panels are attached to the crate:

1. Starting and ceiling plinths are placed and fastened with appropriate fasteners to the system. The result is a frame. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality and horizontality of this frame, and then the plane of the cladding in terms of level, since even a millimeter deviation can cause a blockage in the future.
2. Elements are cut to length with a hacksaw. A protruding spike is cut off from the first panel, then the cut side is inserted into the corner, and the edges are tucked into the profiles. The bar is driven all the way and fixed to each crossbar.
3. Joining subsequent panels.
4. The latter is cut to width and inserted into profiles.

Video - Installation of PVC panels on the crate

Note! Some craftsmen prefer to work without corner profiles. The panel that goes into the corner can be cut from the back and gently bent so as not to break. This usually succeeds the first time, since plastic for the manufacture of panels is used quite flexible and elastic. From the front side, such a fold will look nice and neat.

Features of fastening in different rooms

Pay attention to the article - where we sorted out interesting options for mounting panels in the restroom.

The following features of the finishing device in different rooms can be distinguished:

1. In the bathroom and high humidity and temperature changes often occur, so it is better to take a crate system made of plastic or stainless steel. If the wall is without special bumps and pits, you can glue the cladding on liquid nails or even mounting foam. Mounting on self-tapping screws (also made of stainless steel) is acceptable.
2. For decoration loggias or balconies it is better to take sandwich panels and lay them on the crate, under which you can place a layer of thermal insulation.
3. For decoration living rooms take decorative panels with patterns, drawings or with a 3D effect. Installation should be carried out taking into account the condition of the walls. If there are a lot of wires in the room, it is better to use a crate for which they can be hidden. In the rooms, you can arrange a more economical wooden crate, since the humidity drops are small here.
4. For decoration country house rooms, used only in the season, as well as terraces and verandas, you should use any crate, except for wood, since during an unheated period, humidity may increase in them.
5. In addition, the panels are used for finishing administrative premises, offices, trade departments and supermarkets.

How to fix plastic panels to the wall on your own when decorating the interior, what you need to know for this, what tools to use and what is the sequence of work - all this is not difficult to learn today. The modern generation of plastic panels, from traditional lining, 6-10 cm wide, to solid panels 25-30 cm, is increasingly used not only in conventional, standard wall-to-floor wall cladding solutions, but also in options that claim to something to be called really interesting interior solutions that you can implement yourself.

Features of interior solutions for the use of plastic panels

Today, plastic is experiencing a new era of its development. Thanks to more advanced release technologies, manufacturers have moved away from the use of many harmful components. The current generation of this material has a higher environmental friendliness and safety. In addition to this, new aesthetic solutions appeared in the design of panels - one-color, with unnaturally bright colors, strips of plastic gave way to new, more interesting models. Today, in accordance with the requirements of fashion, more and more popular are panels with imitation of precious woods, which have a rough texture similar to natural wood, which are interconnected without traces of docking.

Following this rapid improvement in the quality of plastic products, new solutions immediately began to appear, making it possible to use plastic panels in interior design - from traditional office spaces to individual corners of modern homes.

Popular today is the use of combined combinations of plastic and other textures, for example, decorative plaster, in the lining of balconies and loggias, creating panels from various textures and colors.

Design features of panels

At the same time, the independent creation of such original interior design solutions is not something special today, because working with plastic does not require special skills and expensive tools, and the panels themselves, like most modern building materials for decoration, are attached very simply.

One of the factors influencing the choice of this particular material is the design features of the panels, which allow you to create smooth, seamless surfaces. Various ledges, niches and cornices are not an obstacle. Indeed, unlike wooden panels, in addition to the main type of flat panels or strips of plastic with locking joints on the sides, there are also other shaped elements that allow you to simply and reliably cultivate edges, internal and external corners, and create reliable protection for the cut end.

An additional convenience is the ease of installation and the arrangement of all necessary communications. Sockets, switches, ventilation outlets are easily installed in the coating and do not require additional costs for moving to another place.

The main types of panels are mounted both vertically and horizontally. And due to their low weight, they do not require a large amount of fastening materials. Therefore, the process of self-attaching plastic panels to the wall is extremely simple.

Preparatory work. What to pay attention to

Starting the practical implementation of the project, that is, by installing pvc panels with your own hands, you should first carry out a series of preparatory work:

• clean the workplace - fitting plastic panels requires a lot of free space;
• walls planned for sheathing are strongly recommended to be cleaned of dust, old coatings, such as wallpaper, and treated with a deep penetration primer with a mandatory antifungal effect;
• with a long rule or building level, check the correctness of the plane of the wall and determine the largest irregularities - depressions, bulges, distortions;

Important! Before starting the sheathing, you need to bring the plastic panels into the room so that they adapt to temperature and humidity.

The preparatory stage is really important, because it allows you to prepare the surface for further work and avoid mistakes that will be visible almost immediately. A feature of modern plastic panels is their ability to show even small irregularities - a glossy surface will immediately demonstrate where a mistake was made.

Fastening technology

For self-assembly of plastic panels to the wall, two main methods are used today. The first, the most common, using prepared mounting rails. This is the most common method of fastening today, although there are variations of this method, for example, arranging panels first on a frame base, and then attaching them to the wall. But basically, this is the traditional installation of guide rails to the bearing surface, and only then directly to the plastic.

The second, less common option is the use of mounting adhesive as a means of mounting PVC panels. This is a somewhat unconventional approach, since it requires an excellently prepared wall surface, the selection of the appropriate adhesive composition, and careful preparation of the glued surface of the plastic itself. However, this saves space, since there are no slats and the risk of insect colonization of the cavities is minimized. However, this is a very time-consuming and costly installation method both in terms of time and cost.

Attention! It is possible to fix plastic panels with glue only on pre-aligned walls.

Lathing fastening

The sequence of work on self-installation of plastic lining, taking into account the conditions of each particular room, can be ordered in the following algorithm of actions:

• preparatory stage - cleaning of unnecessary things and furniture, cleaning the surface of the walls from wallpaper and their primer;
• marking the walls for the crate, taking into account the passage of communications and the features of the interior solution for laying panels;
• installation of the crate;
• installation of the starting ceiling profile, plinth, first corner profile;
• installation of planks of panels;
• installation of external elements of engineering communications - switches, sockets, air ducts, contours of heating pipes, water pipes, gas pipes;

The most crucial point, in addition to installing the panel strips, is the fastening of the crate, which acts as a frame for plastic. Lathing battens can be wooden and plastic. Traditionally, wooden slats are used, as they allow the structure to be held and give rigidity to the panels. The tree allows you to eliminate the unevenness of the wall and thereby ensure a flat plastic surface. Of the minuses of wooden planks as a frame is that such planks are prone to decay, and the space between the wall and the plastic increases even up to 2 cm.

Plastic guides make it possible to minimize the gap between the wall and the panel, they do not rot, but require a perfectly flat wall surface and the use of special brackets-panel holders - clamps as fasteners.

When choosing a method of how to independently attach plastic panels to the wall, you need to take into account one more feature of the plastic - it reacts to temperature, and expands when it rises, therefore, for reliable fixation, you need to take into account the step of the crate - 30-50 cm. This step is enough to keep panels.

Lathing slats are arranged perpendicular to the direction of the panel strips, the lower rail is mounted at a height of 5-10 cm from the floor, the upper one at the same distance from the ceiling, if the panels are installed to the full height of the wall.

For the installation of rails you will need:

• puncher with a set of drills;
• screwdriver with a set of bits;
• saw on wood;
• jigsaw;
• mounting saw;
• drill with a set of drills;
• screwdrivers;
• hammer;

The rails are fastened with quick fixing nails in through holes, it is preferable to use fast fixing systems with dowels 80 mm long for wooden battens and 60 mm for plastic rail. Nails are installed at least every 80 cm.

For a plastic guide, the attachment points correspond to the technological holes.

Installation of plastic panels

Installation begins with the installation of the lower guide profile (plinth) and the upper ceiling starting profile from shaped elements. It is preferable that the profile be selected along the length of the entire room. The first bar, adjusted in height (it needs to be made slightly smaller by 5-7 mm), is attached to the corner profile. Installation is carried out vertically in level (or at an angle, if the design solution requires an angle of inclination). The first strip is fixed with staples, small nails or kleimers.

The second and subsequent strips are attached after the lock connection is tightly fitted. It is allowed to use a wooden block and a mallet for a tighter fixation - the block is attached to the end of the plastic panel and the panel is put in place with light blows of the mallet.

To work with plastic you will need:

• tape measure, ruler, corner, marker, and possibly a protractor;
• level or plumb;
• glue gun and mounting glue (for gluing the ceiling plinth);
• hammer;
• a mounting saw with a disc for a fine cut (a disc with small or very small teeth);
• miter box, at least with angles of 45 and 90 degrees.

A feature of this stage is the need to properly fit the panel to size, and it is recommended to cut it with an electric jigsaw or a mounting saw. The cut should be straight, at an angle of 90 degrees. It is preferable to use a saw with small teeth, resulting in a neater cut. Before mounting in the guides, you need to carefully clean the cuts from sawdust and sintered plastic, and also smooth out the bumps.

In rooms where air temperature fluctuations are small, and plastic will not be subject to frequent expansion and contraction, it is recommended to fix plastic panels to the crate using a construction stapler.

Gradually typing the entire surface of the wall with panels, the edge panel is cut in accordance with the dimensions, while taking into account the size of the corner profile. A dressed corner profile with an extreme strip of plastic is fixed with clamps on an adjacent wall. Thus, all panels in the room are installed.

The edge panel, cut to size, is mounted into the lock groove, first at the bottom, into the wall panel, and then gradually, using a plaster spatula 90-100 mm wide, carefully bending the edges of the plinth and corner, insert further, rising up.

The bent edges of the corner panel and ceiling profile will eventually fall into place, without visible signs of deformation.

In fact, fixing plastic panels to the wall yourself is much easier than it seems. Follow the tips above and you'll be fine. Good luck!

In skillful hands, wall cladding with plastic panels resembles assembling crafts from a children's designer: the same pleasant-to-touch details, the same principles for attaching PVC panels: either with glue on a pre-prepared surface, or with bolts on a pre-prepared frame.

But if you look closely, each method of their installation will have its own nuances that must be taken into account.

The essence of this method is to fix the panels with your own hands on a special frame, called a crate. Its main difficulty is to correctly calculate the upper and lower levels of the crate, which must run strictly parallel to each other: the uniform distribution of the guides, on which they will subsequently be attached, depends on this.

However, this does not mean that additional preparation is not needed for such installation. The latter directly depends on the purpose of the room.

In rooms with stable temperature and humidity - such as, as a rule, are living rooms - it is enough to simply remove the old peeling coating from the walls with a spatula, carefully inspect for cracks, crevices and chips and, if necessary, seal them with putty or plaster.

If temperature fluctuations and humidity in the room are a common occurrence (remember, for example, bathrooms, kitchens, balconies), it will be additionally required.

The waterproofing layer is applied with a roller or a paint brush on pre-moistened walls. And after it dries, the walls are processed.

Most often, the crate is made either of wood or metal.

Wooden blocks of at least 20x20mm in thickness are cheaper, but they are less durable and not suitable for rooms with a high level of humidity. Therefore, before use, they must be properly dried (the permissible moisture content of the tree should not exceed 12-15%) and be sure to treat with an antiseptic to protect against decay and insects.

The metal profile is more expensive, but suitable for any premises, stronger and more durable. At the same time, a UD profile is distinguished, with the help of which the crate contour is formed, and a CD profile inserted into it, which serves as intermediate elements (guides).

But regardless of the material before its installation, you need to stock up:

• building level and plumb - to determine the position of the main elements of the crate;
• dowels - for attaching it to the wall;
• screws - for fastening its elements to each other;
• tape measure - to measure the distance between the guides;
• material for substrates under the guides - wood or thick plywood;
• screwdriver and drill - to facilitate the work.

To cut a metal profile, you will need metal scissors. For additional work with wooden blocks - a saw with medium teeth, a chisel, a mallet.

Mounting the batten to the wall

The installation of the crate can be divided into several stages

Marking the frame for wall panels

It begins with the definition of the lower level, which runs along the floor in such a way that subsequently a plinth can be screwed onto it. In this case, the “reference point” is the most protruding part of the wall: focusing on it, they determine the distance by which the crate will subsequently recede from the wall.

If we are talking about wooden beams, another 2-3 mm is added to this distance, as a discount for their possible irregularities.

Then comes the determination of the upper level, passing along the intended height of the ceiling, and then the side levels. When setting the upper and lower levels, it is necessary to use the building level, and when setting the side levels - a plumb line.

Bringing the frame to the proper level

In general, all levels are not attached to the walls closely, but on direct suspensions, observing the necessary indentation. The outer edges of the batten should be at the same level, which can be adjusted either by grinding the battens of the batten or by substrates.

The distance between the screws on which the profile is attached should be 20-25 cm for a wooden profile and 15-25 cm for a metal profile.

Fastening rails inside the frame frame

To begin with, they cover all the protruding elements of the wall, as well as window and door openings.

The purpose of this action is to securely fasten the edges of the skin elements along their boundaries. Then intermediate profiles are mounted.

When installing them, it is necessary to take into account how the PVC panels will be attached - horizontally or vertically: they are fixed perpendicular to the guides.

Wooden bars (for wooden crates) and CD profiles (for metal) are inserted into the frame frame and fixed with screws along the edges. To give the metal profile additional rigidity, it is recommended to use U-shaped profiles - they are screwed to its guides after the profile is installed and fixed.

Naturally, when carrying out this type of work, do not forget to use the building level. But here the crate is ready. And it's time to start installing PVC panels.

How to fix?

To do this, stock up:

• plastic panels, which, before starting work, must “acclimatize” by staying in the room intended for decoration for at least a day;
• moldings, that is, special corner profiles that ensure smooth joining;
• clamps - special brackets for fastening;
• a building level that helps to determine the location of the first PVC panel on the crate as accurately as possible, serving as a guide for further installation;
• with a special knife or saw for metal for cutting panels.

The installation of PVC panels does not begin with the installation of moldings - internal and external: it is from them that you will have to build on in the future.

The first panel is installed with a spike in the profile, attaching it to the crate with the help of clamps. The second panel is installed in the groove of the previous one and fastened in the same way. Thus, they reach the end of the wall.

The latter is cut in such a way that it can be installed all the way to the finishing corner, while the distance between its spike and the groove of the previous panel should be 2-3 mm.

The cut edge is inserted into the profile, then the panel is pulled out and connected to the previous panel.

If it is necessary to hide the moldings, the installation technology of plastic wall panels becomes more complicated. The first panel is attached strictly in the very corner, the next - close to it. A spike is removed on one of the corner panels, as a result, a groove appears on the end.

This panel is pushed onto the hook brackets installed on the second profile. The next corner panel is inserted into the starting profile.

Installation of PVC panels without crates

The essence of mounting panels without crates is to glue the panels directly to the wall. And its main difficulty is in the preparation of the walls, which require careful alignment, and the correct selection of the adhesive composition.

The initial preparation of the walls is the same as with the frame method: the old coating is removed and the cracks are sealed. Of course, it is difficult to perfectly align the wall, however, the allowable size of drops, bumps and pits should not exceed 5 mm, otherwise the plastic may peel off or be damaged.

And taking into account the fact that a dusty, dirty and greasy surface is not able to provide sufficient adhesion to any glue, there is a need for high-quality cleaning of the walls: washing off the whitewash, removing grease with detergents, priming.

The range of glue on the modern market is great. For do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels, universal tools such as Kleiberit 636, Emfikol 34012A or Crystal Moment are perfect, but it is best to use glue designed specifically for gluing plastic. Good glue:

• after drying, it becomes transparent and forms a film layer;
• not afraid of moisture, frost and temperature changes;
• bonds surfaces for a long period and sets quickly.

Do not use hot glue to fasten the panels.

It provides too rigid fixation and, "interacting" with plastic, which has a considerable coefficient of thermal expansion, deprives the panels made of it of free play, thereby contributing to their separation from the walls.

More reliable non-expanding polyurethane sealant and liquid nails - their sufficient plasticity does not allow the panel to come off the wall during temperature fluctuations.

PVC panels are glued to the wall as follows:

• the panel is taken and the back side is wiped with a damp cloth to remove dust;
• glue is applied on the back side in a dotted way, the distance between the drops of which varies from 25 cm to 35 cm;
• then the panel is applied to the wall.

If liquid nails were used when trying to glue it, it is better to tap it and tear it off: this type of glue requires weathering for 5-7 minutes - only then it will acquire additional rigidity and will not allow the panel to lag behind the wall after pressing it again until it is completely dry.

For the most part, it makes no sense to form external and internal corners during frameless installation of PVC panels. A simple cladding with conventional plastic corners is sufficient, in which there are no grooves for inserting panels.

They simply stick on transparent silicone, wiping with a damp cloth to remove excess silicone. The size of such inserts ranges from 20 mm to 50 mm, depending on the curvature of the corners. If it is required to glue PVC panels around the outlet, the place for the outlet is pre-cut out, and the electricity is turned off.

At the last stage of installation, floor and ceiling plinths are installed, which are fastened with self-tapping screws. The joints between the panels are processed with mounting foam or transparent silicone sealant (the latter is preferable in rooms with high humidity).

You can make wall panels according to individual sizes from our partners: "Style City".