The efficiency of an autonomous heating system depends on the correct choice and connection of heating devices.
It is better to entrust the installation of radiators in an apartment building to a plumber, who will be responsible for the quality of work and possible leaks.
Installation of batteries in a private house is possible without the participation of a master. Having studied and selected the connection diagram, you can independently install radiators in the heating of a private house.
Comfortable living depends on competent installation heating devices.
When installing with your own hands, pay attention to the following points:
- compliance with installation rules;
- adherence to the sequence of connecting elements: pipes, fittings, boiler, stainless steel boiler () and pump);
- selection of equipment and components;
- arrangement of devices.
Preliminary layout
There are rules for installing radiators in a private house.
They are optional, but they can improve battery performance:
- the radiator is mounted 10-15 cm from the floor;
- the distance to the windowsill is at least 10 cm;
- the battery is mounted at a distance of 2 cm from the walls.
IMPORTANT! Failure to comply with these rules may result in heat loss, fogging of windows, damage to the wall covering.
When planning installation sites, take into account the presence and number of windows in the room. Installing a radiator under the window will create a thermal curtain against the cold that comes from the opening.
If there are several windows in the room then batteries are installed under each.
Pay attention to the layout of the premises - an additional heater is installed in the corner rooms.
The degree of room heating depends on many factors: location, number of windows, proximity to the front door, the purpose of the room.
To maintain a comfortable microclimate in each room, we provide for the regulation of the heating of the batteries.
Radiators are equipped with automatic or manual controls.
ATTENTION! You can increase the heat dissipation of the battery by installing a heat reflector on the back or by applying a special reflective coating to the wall.
Wiring options
Installation of batteries in a private house is carried out according to two schemes:
- one-pipe;
- two-pipe.
One-pipe version used in a two or three storey building.
The coolant (about the use of antifreeze in the heating system is written in the article) is supplied through the central highway to the last floor.
Passing through the batteries from top to bottom, water flows to the boiler.
This scheme has advantages.:
- minimum cost and material costs;
- relatively simple installation;
- the scheme is compatible with underfloor heating and different types of radiators;
- wiring and installation do not depend on the layout of the rooms;
- one pipe enhances the aesthetics of the room.
Despite the obvious advantages, the scheme has several disadvantages:
- complex hydro and heat calculations (how to correctly install a hydraulic accumulator for heating is written);
- you cannot regulate the heat transfer of a separate device;
- large heat loss;
- the movement of the coolant requires an increase in pressure (it is written how to push through an airlock in the heating system).
ATTENTION! Difficulties with water circulation in a one-pipe scheme are solved by installing a circulation pump without a bypass (written on the page).
Two-pipe version assumes parallel connection of radiators.
In this case, there are two branches in the construction: forward and backward.
Hot water enters the battery through a straight pipe, and the cooled coolant leaves through the return. Both branches are connected at the heating end point.
Compared to single pipe, this one has two advantages:
- The heat transfer of each device is regulated separately;
- In cases of accidents and planned work, the heating continues to function. Both branches overlap directly at each battery.
Among the disadvantages are:
- high cost,
- duration of installation.
The choice of piping depends from the characteristics of the house and the preferences of the owner. It is worth remembering that the regulation of heat transfer compensates for the costs of installation and materials.
Connection methods
In addition to wiring diagrams, they use different options for connecting radiators to the pipeline.
- One-way connection (lateral).
With this connection, the forward and reverse branches are connected to the same side of the battery.
Achieved uniform heating of each element of the radiator with a small amount of water.
Used in high-rise buildings with a large number of batteries.
GOOD TO KNOW... The number of sections in the radiator should not exceed 12 pieces.
Long radiators, with one-sided connection, warm up worse.
This reduces the heat dissipation efficiency..
Installation of radiators
Installing a radiator in the heating system of a private house is a matter for a professional plumber.
Installation can be done independently, knowing the connection methods, reading the instructions for the radiator and observing the technology.
If the work is done correctly and the tightness of the connections is ensured, then there will be no problems with the radiator.
Do-it-yourself installation of the device will minimize costs.
We follow the sequence of actions when installing radiators:
Aluminum, bimetallic and cast iron
Progress does not stand still. Manufacturers are promoting batteries from the latest materials:
- super lightweight made of aluminum,
- bimetallic.
But, despite this, classic cast-iron radiators do not give up their positions.
The material retains heat for a long time, which reduces fuel costs.
Technology has made it possible to mold devices of modern shapes.
Installation of such batteries has specific features:
- before installation, the battery is disassembled, nipples are adjustable.
To avoid skewing, the upper and lower nipples are unscrewed at the same time;
- collect the sections in reverse order.
We pressurize the assembled radiator. If a leak occurs, then adjust the corresponding nipple;
- wooden walls will not support the weight of a cast iron battery.
Devices with floor supports are installed in a wooden private house. We fix the brackets in the brick or panels and hang a cast-iron radiator on them;
- mount the radiator with a bypass () and a Mayevsky crane.
It is necessary to provide shut-off valves and a circulation pump (), which will shut off the heater in the event of an accident or repair.
Installation in a pipeline carried out with the help of threaded sleeves, ensuring tightness with plumbing flax with sealant or oil paint.
Conclusion
We prepare the necessary materials and components. You can mount a radiator in the heating of a private house yourself.
Before starting work, we decide on a wiring option, a connection method. In the process of work, we follow the instructions and installation technology.
We offer you to watch a video tutorial on assembling and installing an aluminum battery in the heating system.
During the construction and repair of residential buildings, there is often a need to install or replace heating batteries. This is a simple matter, which does not have to be trusted by specialists, but you can do it on your own.
Varieties of heating radiators for an apartment or a private house
The first thing to decide before installing a heating radiator in an apartment is the choice of the type of this device.
The following types of heating batteries and radiators are widely represented on the modern market:
- cast iron;
- aluminum;
- bimetallic;
- steel;
- copper;
- plastic.
Each of these varieties has its own advantages and disadvantages that you need to know in order to make the right choice. For example, cast iron batteries, widely used in Soviet times, are distinguished by a long service life and undemanding to the quality of the coolant - the water in them may even be rusty or with a large amount of impurities. At the same time, due to the low thermal conductivity of cast iron, the fuel costs for heating such devices are quite high. Another disadvantage is the unaesthetic appearance of cast iron batteries, so they are not used so often nowadays.
Aluminum, steel, bimetallic and copper radiators have excellent thermal conductivity and spectacular appearance. At the same time, they also have disadvantages. For example, the disadvantage of aluminum batteries is their high sensitivity to water purity and instability to high pressure of the coolant. Bimetallic devices are somewhat more hardy in this regard. Copper radiators are the most durable and most efficient in terms of heating, but also the most expensive.
As for plastic radiators, they are the most economical option, they are lightweight and easy to install, but they should not be heated above 80 ° C.
Having studied the features of various types of batteries before installing a heating radiator with your own hands, you can make a choice in favor of one or another variety. A lot here may also depend on the interior of the premises, the budgetary possibilities of the home owners and other factors.
Necessary elements for DIY installation
Further, before installing heating radiators in a private house or apartment, you should prepare all the parts, tools and materials necessary for installation. Find out when you will have the end of the heating season, then you can start work.
In addition to the battery itself for heating itself, when installing heating radiators with your own hands, the following important elements will be installed:
- Mayevsky crane... It is a small fixture that mounts on the free top battery outlet (collector). Its function is to automatically evacuate any air that may form in the system. The presence of such a device is mandatory when installing aluminum or bimetallic radiators, but if we are talking about installing heating batteries made of cast iron, then the Mayevsky crane is not installed on the battery - instead, a device for automatic air exhaust is mounted at a higher point in the system.
- Automatic air vent- can perform the same function as the Mayevsky crane. It is rarely used for installation on radiators. Manufactured in nickel-plated or brass housing. It is often used to remove air to the outside in other parts of the heating system, as in the case described above with the installation of cast-iron batteries.
- Plug... Side-connected radiator batteries have four outlets, three of which occupy the inlet and outlet pipes and an automatic air venting device. On the fourth outlet, a plug is placed, which is usually painted with white enamel and matches the appearance of the heater well.
- Ball or shut-off valves... There are two of them: at the inlet and at the outlet of the radiator. The main function of such taps is that if the radiator malfunctions, it can be cut off from the rest of the heating system, which can continue to function further. Ball valves are cheaper but less functional. It is preferable to use shut-off valves when installing a heating battery with your own hands, since they additionally make it possible to regulate the flow of the coolant, and therefore the degree of heating in the room.
- Hooks, brackets and plastic dowels... These are fasteners used for hanging heating radiators and fixing them to walls. Details on how to properly hang a heating radiator and what points need to be taken into account in this case is given below.
- Linen roll or fum tape, as well as plumbing paste... These materials are needed to ensure the tightness of the areas to be joined.
Instruments
The set of tools for installing heating batteries with your own hands is small and includes the following:
- drill and drills for her;
- level;
- tools for joining pipes and fittings together (their list depends on the type of pipe products).
Choosing a place for installing heating radiators
Speaking about how to properly install a heating radiator in an apartment, it should be noted that the space under the windows is traditionally considered the optimal place for installation. This arrangement creates a warm barrier in the path of cold air masses entering the room from the window side.
It is advisable that the width of the heat radiator is at least three quarters of the width of the window opening - this will prevent sweating of the glass when heating the home.
The optimal distance between the heater and the floor is 8-12 centimeters, between the radiator and the window sill - 10-12 centimeters. The gap between the back surface of the battery and the wall should be 3-5 centimeters.
Hanging the radiator and fixing it to the wall
Next, you need to figure out how to hang a heating radiator and how to fix it to the walls. The process itself is simple, but even before you hang the battery, you should make sure that the wall surface behind it is flat.
Further on the wall, 10-12 centimeters below the windowsill, a horizontal line is drawn, which serves as a reference point for the location of the upper edge of the radiator. After that, in accordance with the intended position of the heating device, the fasteners are installed.
The location of the radiator should be strictly horizontal for heating systems with forced (pump) circulation of the coolant. If the system works by means of natural circulation, then a minimum slope is provided for the battery - about 1-1.5 °. The reason is simple - at the end of the heating season, the operation of the radiator stops and the water is drained. In this case, it is very important that the drain is complete, and the battery subsequently remains dry.
If the slope exceeds the recommended value of 1-1.5 °, then the stagnation arising during operation will interfere with the normal operation of the device. All these nuances should be foreseen and taken into account before you hang up the heating battery and equip the heating system in the home.
To install the hooks, holes are drilled in the wall into which plastic dowels are mounted. Then the hooks are screwed into them enough to provide a distance of 3-5 centimeters between the radiator and the wall. Typically, the heating device is suspended so that the hooks are between the sections.
If the brackets are used to fix the battery, the installation process is slightly different from the above. Before hanging the heating radiator, you should attach it to the wall and mark the places for the fasteners. Further, holes are drilled in these places. Plastic dowels for screws are mounted in them, by means of which the mounting brackets are screwed.
Another important point regarding how to hang radiators on the wall. Although, along with the upper ones, lower fasteners are also installed, their role is rather auxiliary - they serve mainly for more reliable fixation of the radiator in a given position, including during the installation process. The level of their installation should be 1-1.5 centimeters below the lower collector. Most of the weight load of the radiator falls on the upper fasteners.
Of course, the heavier the heating device, the greater the thickness and strength of the fasteners. For example, if the question is about how to hang an aluminum radiator, you can get by with hooks that are not very thick. If a heavy cast-iron battery is suspended from the wall, the brackets and hooks should be much thicker and stronger.
Securing the radiator to the floor - how to install it correctly
Wall structures of apartments are not always able to reliably withstand the load from the battery for a long time. If the heating device has a large mass, or the walls are lightweight, then additional floor fixation is required. It is carried out by means of legs, which are sometimes included with the device, or special brackets, which are attached to the floor with nails or dowels.
Connection to pipelines
The final step in installing heating batteries in an apartment with your own hands is to connect to the piping system. It can be carried out laterally or in the bottom way, depending on how provided by the manufacturer of the heating device.
In turn, the lateral connection of the radiator to the pipes can be carried out in several versions:
- One-way way... It can be one-pipe (most often) or two-pipe. In addition to the pipes themselves, to connect them to the radiator, you will need two ball or shut-off valves, two tees and two squeegees. With a one-pipe connection method, it is mandatory to install a bypass, which allows you to disconnect the battery without stopping the system as a whole. Threaded connections should be sealed with fum tape or linen tape, on top of which plumbing paste is applied. If technically feasible, the bypass can be connected to the pipes by welding.
- Diagonal connection... This option is optimal because it provides maximum heat transfer. On one side of the radiator, in its upper part, the coolant is supplied, and in the lower part, on the opposite side, its return outlet. Such an option is also possible, when the coolant is supplied from below, and comes out from above. The diagonal connection can also be one-pipe or two-pipe, and again with a one-pipe method, a bypass must be installed.
- Saddle connection... This method is the most convenient to implement, and outwardly the most inconspicuous in a residential area. Both the supply and the return outlet of the coolant are carried out in the lower part of the radiator, but from different sides. As in the previous cases, the system can be one-pipe or two-pipe. With a single-pipe saddle connection, a bypass is preferred, but installation is also possible without it. In the absence of a bypass, if it becomes necessary to remove the radiator, a temporary pipe bridge is placed between the supply and return valves. Read also: "".
Of course, the connection diagram and all other nuances regarding how to put a heating radiator in an apartment should be carefully thought out in advance, before starting installation work. If everything was done correctly, then the result of such work is a comfortable temperature microclimate in the home, allowing you to survive the harsh and cold winter season without any problems.
Most often, you have to deal with the replacement of heating radiators during a major overhaul. They are usually changed after installing windows and sills.
Radiators create warmth and comfortable stay in the house, which means that their installation must be competent and durable.
It is very important to figure out how to install a heating radiator correctly.
There are several ways to mount radiators. Most often they are mounted under windows, and sometimes on the walls and in the hallway at the entrance. To install the batteries, brackets or stands are used that are fixed to the wall surface.
From two (or one) sides and from below, pipes are brought to the battery. If the piping is provided on one side, then you need to clearly calculate the number of sections, since half of the radiator may remain cold. Experts recommend not installing more than 12 sections if the water circulation is natural. With artificial circulation, the number of sections can be increased to 24.
How to install a radiator?
If you want to install a large number of sections, then you need to worry about how to bring the pipes to the heating devices.
When calculating the number of sections and installing a radiator, you need to take into account the throughput of the pipes. It is determined by the inner diameter of the product and the roughness factor.
In order to properly install a heating system that will provide maximum heat output, you need to adhere to several rules when making calculations:
- to make it convenient to clean under the battery, the distance from the floor to the bottom of the battery should be about 10 cm;
- there should be a gap of up to 5 cm between the wall and the radiator. If the distance is less, heating will begin not on the room, but on the walls;
- from the radiator to the window sill should be 10 cm.
In order to be able to adjust the heat output of the heating battery automatically or manually, it is necessary to take care of the installation of thermostatic valves in advance. In the event of a leak or other emergency, it will be possible to autonomously turn off the heating system. Automatic regulation of the heating system is possible due to the installation of thermostatic valves directly on the valve.
If the installation of valves is envisaged for a heating system with one pipe, then care must be taken in advance that the two pipes have jumpers between them. If they are not present, installation of thermal heads is not permissible.
In addition to the listed elements, the heating radiator must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. The valve serves to remove air from the batteries and from the entire heating system. This procedure is carried out at the beginning of the heating season and then periodically during the operation of devices for heating the room.
Stages of installing a heating battery
- On the surface of the wall, it is necessary to apply markings for future brackets, and then fix them.
- Put the Mayevsky valve on the radiator together with the control valves (if necessary) and the plug.
- Using a level, it is necessary to fix the radiator on the brackets.
- Connect the radiators to the pipes of the heating system.
To make sure that the battery works smoothly, you need to make the first start. If you do not have the required plumbing skills, then. in order to properly install the radiators, it is better to use the help of specialists. If you install the heating system incorrectly, a pipe rupture can occur with all the unpleasant consequences.
To ensure the smooth functioning of the thermal valves and to increase the heat output, it is better not to put various decorative grilles on the radiator. It is also better to place furniture away from radiators.
When choosing radiators, you need to remember the maximum temperature of the heat carrier in the centralized heating system. Usually it is 65-105 degrees. In apartment buildings, the pressure level is usually 10 atm.
How are bimetallic radiators installed?
Since hydraulic shocks appear on the heating system at the beginning of the heating period, when choosing batteries, it is worth giving preference to bimetallic batteries or those in which the working pressure is more than 16 atm.
Steel panel batteries are best installed in private homes. You should be aware that the declared power of the radiators can be much higher than it actually is.
Currently, bimetallic radiators are considered one of the most efficient batteries. They have increased heat dissipation. Their modern design will suit almost any décor.
The following tools and materials are required to install the batteries
- water tanks;
- torque wrenches;
- puncher;
- building level;
- pencil;
- roulette.
Stages of installing bimetallic batteries
Norms and rules for installing a heating device: distances from the floor, walls, windowsill.
First of all, it is necessary to find out the diameter of the supply pipes. After that, a mounting kit of the correct size must be ordered. The delivery set of the bimetallic radiator includes:
- air vent valve;
- adapter for the Mayevsky valve;
- two adapters;
- plug;
- brackets;
- gaskets for the plug and adapter.
It is necessary to prepare containers in advance, cut off the water and drain its residues from the heating system. After that, the old radiator is dismantled by untwisting the threaded connections of the outlet and inlet pipes.
The places for the installation of the brackets are marked. When working, it is recommended to attach the radiators to the piping. With the help of a building level, horizontality is checked. Attachments are attached to the installation site and the fastening holes are marked with a pencil.
Holes of the required diameter are drilled in the designated places using a perforator. If the number of sections is no more than 8, then three brackets will be enough. If the sections are from 8 to 12, then it is necessary to install 4 fasteners.
The radiator is installed on the prepared brackets in such a way that all horizontal collectors are on the hooks. One of the features of the installation of such radiators is that the entire set must be in the package until it is installed.
A Mayevsky valve, which is included in the delivery set, should be installed on each radiator. Use a torque wrench to tighten the valve. After that, the thermostatic and shut-off valves are installed.
Next, the bimetallic radiator is connected to the heat pipes of the heating system. It is not recommended to clean the surfaces to be connected with a file or emery paper: this will lead to leaks.
The technology for installing heating batteries is quite simple. After studying the sequence of work and preparing the necessary tools and materials, the installation can be done independently.
The device or reconstruction of the heating system implies the installation or replacement of heating devices. The good news is that if you want, you can do it yourself without involving specialists. How the installation of heating radiators should take place, where and how to place them, what is needed to carry out the work - all this is in the article.
What is needed for installation
Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and consumables. The set of necessary materials is almost the same, but for cast-iron batteries, for example, the plugs are of a large size, and the Mayevsky valve is not installed, but, somewhere at the highest point of the system, an automatic air vent is installed. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.
Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - brackets are included with them, and on the rear panel there are special bows cast from metal, with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.
Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent
This is a small venting device for air that can accumulate in the radiator. Placed on a free top outlet (collector). Must be on every heating device when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is much less than the diameter of the collector, so an adapter is also required, but Mayevsky taps are usually supplied with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the collector (connecting dimensions).
In addition to the Mayevsky crane, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be placed on radiators, but they are slightly larger and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture turns out to be unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely put on.
Plug
The radiator has four outputs with side connection. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third a Mayevsky crane is being installed. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. She, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.
Shut-off valves
You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves with the ability to adjust. They are placed on each input and output battery. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repair, replacement during the heating season). In this case, even if something happened to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The plus of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the minus is the impossibility of adjusting the heat transfer.
Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (to make it less), and they look better outwardly, they are available in a straight and angular design, so the strapping itself is more accurate.
If desired, you can put a thermostat on the coolant supply after the ball valve. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat transfer of the heater. If the radiator does not heat well, you cannot put them on - it will be even worse, since they can only make less flow. There are different thermostats for batteries - automatic electronic, but more often they use the simplest - mechanical.
Related materials and tools
You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:
- if the sections are no more than 8 or the length of the radiator is no more than 1.2 m, two attachment points at the top and one at the bottom are sufficient;
- for every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections add one fastener at the top and bottom.
So you need fum tape or linen roll, plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (a level is better, but a regular bubble level is also suitable), a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.
Where and how to place
Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cuts off the cold from the window. To prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heater must be at least 70-75% of the window width. It must be installed:
How to install correctly
Now how to hang a radiator. It is highly desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - it is easier to work this way. The middle of the opening is marked on the wall, a horizontal line is drawn 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the upper edge of the heater is aligned. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for forced circulation heating systems (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the flow of the coolant. You can't do more - there will be stagnation.
Wall mount
This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed as dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heater can be easily adjusted by twisting and unscrewing the hook body.
Cast iron battery hooks are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic
When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only for fixing in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply cannot hang the radiator.
When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation site, see where the bracket will "fit", mark the place on the wall. With the battery down, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, the bracket is screwed onto the screws. Having installed all the fasteners, the heating device is hung on them.
Fixing to the floor
Not all walls can support even lightweight aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or covered with plasterboard, floor installation is required. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators come immediately on legs, but they do not suit everyone in appearance or characteristics.
Possible floor installation of aluminum and bimetallic radiators. There are special brackets for them. They are fixed to the floor, then the heating device is installed, the lower collector is fixed with an arc on the installed legs. There are similar legs with adjustable height, there are fixed ones. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.
Options for piping heating radiators
The installation of heating radiators implies their connection to pipelines. There are three main ways to connect:
- saddle;
- one-sided;
- diagonal.
If you install radiators with the bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer rigidly binds the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, since otherwise you simply will not get heat. There are more options with side connection ().
Strapping with one-way connection
One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be two-pipe or one-pipe (the most common option). In apartments, metal pipes are still used, therefore, we will consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on squeegees. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, two ball valves, two tees and two squeegees are needed - parts with external threads at both ends.
All this connects as shown in the photo. With a one-pipe system, a bypass is mandatory - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or lowering the system. You cannot put a crane on the bypass - you will block the movement of the coolant along the riser with it, which is unlikely to please your neighbors and, most likely, you will be fined.
All threaded connections are sealed with fum tape or linen tape, on top of which packing paste is applied. When screwing the tap into the radiator manifold, a lot of winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating devices, except for cast iron. When installing all the rest, please, no fanaticism.
If you have the skills / ability to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is how the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks.
With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not required. The supply is connected to the upper input, the return is connected to the lower one, taps, of course, are needed.
With lower wiring (pipes are laid on the floor), this type of connection is done very rarely - it turns out to be inconvenient and ugly, it is much better in this case to use a diagonal connection.
Strapping for diagonal connection
Installation of heating radiators with diagonal connection is the best option in terms of heat transfer. She is the highest in this case. With the lower wiring, this type of connection is easy to implement (example in the photo) - supply from this side at the top, return from the other at the bottom.
A single pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) doesn't look so good, but people put up with the higher efficiency.
Note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.
Saddle connection
With bottom wiring or hidden piping, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and most inconspicuous.
With saddle connection and bottom one-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed, if necessary, you can remove the radiator, and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a squeeze (a piece of pipe of the required length with threads at the ends).
With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen infrequently - heat losses are too large (12-15%).