How to install a chimney. The correct chimney. Installation and installation. Material selection and solution preparation

The chimney is an important part of the proper arrangement of the furnace, solid fuel or gas boiler. The efficiency of the heating device and the fire safety of the heating system depend on its proper design and installation.

The chimneys in a house, especially a wooden one, or in a bathhouse should be made of various refractory materials. Brick chimneys are resistant to high temperatures, strength and aesthetics, but at the same time, the porous and heterogeneous structure of the brick contributes to the accumulation of moisture, the deposition of combustion products - soot and soot. As a result, the lumen of the chimney is overgrown, draft is deteriorating, and the operation of the furnace becomes unsafe. It is especially undesirable to use brick chimneys in systems for removing smoke from solid fuel, including pellet, boilers with a closed combustion chamber.

Ferrous metal pipes are not recommended for use in wooden houses and baths, as well as when installing a gas or solid fuel boiler: they heat up very much and quickly burn out, which can lead to a fire. Sometimes chimneys from such a pipe are mounted in brick garages and other utility rooms, but even there they are inefficient, as they are susceptible to corrosion and the formation of condensate.

The most successful solution is insulated stainless steel and ceramic sandwich chimneys. The circular cross-section of the pipes facilitates the passage of smoke and provides good traction. Soot settles less on a smooth inner surface. Due to the insulation, the formation of condensate is excluded. Thanks to the modular system, their installation is easy to do yourself. Structurally, stainless steel and ceramic sandwich chimneys are somewhat different.

Ceramic Chimney Sandwich It is a system of modules, each of which consists of an internal ceramic pipe element and a hollow foam block. For thermal insulation, they are separated by a layer of basalt insulation. Unassembled modules are supplied, assembly is done on site with special glue and sealant. For the installation of a ceramic chimney, a foundation is required because of their significant weight.

Stainless Steel Sandwich Chimneys sold in the form of ready-made modules. They are two pipes of different diameters, nested one in the other, and separated by a layer of insulation. The inner pipe is made of stainless steel, the outer one can be either stainless steel or galvanized sheet. They are assembled much faster than ceramic. In addition, due to its light weight, a foundation is not needed for a stainless steel chimney.

Ceramic chimneys are superior to all others in fire resistance, they withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees Celsius for a long time, some models are equipped with ventilation systems. The service life of such chimneys is at least 50 years. But the price of ceramic chimneys is high, so their installation is only advisable in residential buildings, cottages and other capital buildings.

General installation rules

      Chimneys are subject to fairly stringent requirements. Their observance is mandatory for any designs of sandwich pipes.
    • To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney from the grate of the heating unit must be at least 5 meters.
    • The chimney located at the ridge should rise above it by 0.5 m, in other cases its height is determined according to the diagram below.

  • In this case, it is necessary to take into account the buildings next to the house or bathhouse, the chimney outlet should be 1.5 m above their roof.
  • If, as a result of the calculations, the height of the chimney above the roof is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to foresee its fastening to stretch marks to rigid structural elements.
  • If the roof material is combustible - ondulin, roofing material, soft roof, then the top of the chimney must be equipped with a spark trap - a special module with a 5x5 mm grid.
  • Do not narrow the flue, for example, for a furnace with a 120 mm flue, do not install modules with an inner diameter of 110 mm. Broadening is allowed, but special adapters must be used.
  • The length of the horizontal sections should not exceed 1 m. In the event that the vertical pipe is at a greater distance from the heater, it is necessary to use bends by 45 degrees.
  • Outlets, tees and other adapters of the sandwich chimneys must be unloaded - installed so that they do not carry the weight of the higher structure. For this, reference platforms are used.
  • All module joints should be accessible for inspection. They can not be placed in places of overlap. To ensure this requirement, you need to select the length of the straight sections of the chimney.

The correct assembly sequence

    1. First, the outlet pipe of the boiler or furnace is connected to the lower element of the chimney - a single-layer non-insulated pipe. It can consist of several modules and be vertical, horizontal or bend at 45 or 90 degrees.
    2. To go to the insulated pipe, use an adapter. It is put on an insulated pipe, smearing the joint with a special sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 1300 degrees Celsius.

  • Further assembly with their own hands is carried out from insulated elements. They are inserted into each other so that the upper part is worn on the lower. The top can be identified by the edge of the pipe - it is wavy, which facilitates docking. With such an installation, the internal channel is connected “through smoke”, that is, the direction of the joints is located so as not to interfere with the flue flows inside. All elements are connected to a heat-resistant sealant.

At the installation site, smoke exhaust systems are divided into internal, passing through the floor and roof, and external, located at the outer wall of the building. The conclusion of the chimney in this case is done through the wall of the house or bath.

    • The part passing through the heated rooms is allowed to be made of a single stainless pipe - its surface is very hot during fuel combustion and additionally gives off heat. When going through an unheated attic in a house or a bathhouse or outside, the chimney needs to be insulated, so sandwich modules are used for this part.
    • A direct chimney can rely directly on a heating device - an oven, a pellet boiler. In the presence of bends, bends, it is mandatory to install supporting platforms at the level of ceilings, at least after 5 meters.

  • For outdoor installation, the system is fixed using wall mounts - brackets with clamps. They are sold complete with chimneys. The lower part of the chimney rests on the cantilever bracket.
  • The pipe is equipped with cleanings in places convenient for access. They are a tee with a cap on the tap. If necessary, the plug is removed and the soot is removed and the smoke channel is cleaned. At the bottom of the pipe, a plug with a condensate receiver is installed.

  • The greatest attention should be paid to passages through walls, floors and roofs. They use special modules: “passage through the ceiling” and “passage through the roof”. The top of the pipe is equipped with an umbrella to ensure fire safety, improve traction and ventilation.

In a wooden house

Before making the installation of a smoke removal system with your own hands, you need to study the fire safety requirements for chimneys installed in a wooden house.

    In addition to these, they have a number of features:
  • the distance from the non-insulated chimney to any combustible surfaces must be at least 25 cm horizontally and 80 cm vertically;
  • passages of the chimney through the roofs are necessarily carried out with the help of passage units - metal ducts filled with heat-insulating material, usually basalt mats;
  • in the case of connecting several smoke channels into one, it is advisable to place a vertical chimney in a separate duct made of non-combustible material, for example, foam concrete.
Revision of all sections of the chimney from a stainless steel in a wooden house must be carried out at least twice a year! If external damage, discoloration of steel, rust is detected, it is necessary to verify the integrity of the inner pipe - it could burn out!

You can get acquainted with simple designs of cold smoked houses and methods of their manufacture at home and camping conditions.
Details on all stages of manufacturing a smoke generator for cold smoking are described in the following article:

In the bath

Bathhouse is a place of increased fire hazard. Heating of wooden surfaces in the bath reaches 90-100 degrees, and the temperature at which the wood begins to carbonize - 120-150 degrees with prolonged exposure. Most strongly heated wooden elements located near the chimney. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly observe fire distances.

The sequence of installation of passages through the wall and ceiling in the bath, which can be used in the house, is shown in the video.

Since most of the heat loss in a wooden bath occurs through the floors, the pipe is often led out through the walls.

Chimney for buleryan

Connecting a buleryan to a chimney with your own hands does not generally differ from other types of heating devices, but it is necessary to take into account the features of the combustion mode in this type of stoves.

Due to the effective afterburning of flue gases, their temperature at the outlet of the furnace does not exceed 200 degrees. As it moves through the pipe, it decreases even more, the pipe warms up weakly, which can cause condensation on the pipe walls. When soot is deposited on wet walls, carbonic acid is formed, which negatively affects materials such as brick, ferrous metal, and asbestos.

    Therefore, chimneys for buleryan have additional requirements:
  • recommended height - from 3 to 4 meters;
  • horizontal section length - strictly no more than 1 meter;
  • the material of the inner surface must be resistant to acid - stainless steel or ceramic sandwich chimneys;
  • recommended insulation of all sections of the chimney except the exit from buleryan;
  • the chimney must be equipped with a condensate collector and cleanings.

Effective operation of a buleryan is possible only when accessing fresh air to the furnace, so it is advisable to use a modular ceramic chimney with ventilation channels, and you can do it yourself with your own modular construction.

For solid fuel boilers

Conventional solid fuel boilers operating on coal, wood or having a pellet burner are characterized by a high temperature of flue gases. Long-burning pyrolysis boilers burn combustion products contained in smoke more efficiently, therefore they have a lower temperature at the outlet, and, like buleryan, are prone to increased condensation.

    Before ordering chimney components for a solid fuel boiler, the following characteristics should be clarified according to the technical data sheet:
  • type of boiler;
  • the location and diameter of the chimney;
  • flue gas temperature;
  • recommended chimney height providing good draft;
  • the need for additional ventilation.

You should also examine the design of the boiler and assess the difficulty of cleaning the smoke pipe. If access to it from the inside of the boiler is difficult, an inspection tee should be provided in the immediate vicinity of the boiler exit.

If the pellet boiler is equipped with a closed combustion chamber, it would be more advisable to install a coaxial chimney with a ventilation system.

For gas boilers

Gas boilers belong to heating units with a closed combustion chamber, therefore, the installation of a coaxial chimney will be most effective for them. It is a structure consisting of two pipes of different diameters, while the smaller pipe is inserted into the larger one and fixed in it with jumpers.

Flue gases are removed from the combustion chamber of the gas boiler to the street along the inner contour of the coaxial pipe, and air moves in the opposite direction between the chimney pipes. It enters the combustion chamber and supports combustion, while there is no air intake from the room where the gas boiler is installed, which significantly improves the microclimate in the house and eliminates the installation of an additional ventilation system.

Air is a good heat insulator, so the outer surface of the coaxial chimney is slightly heated. In this case, the air is heated in the ventilation duct, and enters the combustion chamber of the gas boiler already warm, which increases the efficiency of the boiler.

The installation of a coaxial chimney for a gas boiler is most often done through a wall, less often through ceilings and a roof, as this increases costs. Safe distances from building structures when installing a coaxial chimney are shown in the picture.

Video about installing a coaxial chimney

When installing a conventional sandwich chimney on a gas boiler, you need to make an additional ventilation system with your own hands, since the oxygen necessary for combustion will be absorbed from the air.

Proper installation of the chimney is the key to a long and safe operation of the heating system both in the house and in the bath. It is possible to make it with your own hands, but if there is even the slightest doubt in your abilities, it is better to entrust this task to professionals. They will make calculations, help you choose the best type of chimney, install a gas exhaust system and ventilation, and the owner of the house will only have to independently audit and clean the chimney.

When equipping a standard furnace or boiler room and a boiler operating on solid, liquid or gas fuel, a chimney installation is required. The smoke exhaust system is used to remove flue gases into the atmosphere and requires general rules for its installation as for a boiler, stove or fireplace.

Therefore, all issues related to the installation work must be addressed at the design stage. Having made the decision to independently carry out the installation, it is important for the owner of the country house to additionally familiarize himself with the main rules and useful tips regarding the implementation of such work.

Before you correctly make a chimney for a gas boiler, you must first pay attention to the following factors:

  • correct calculation of all parameters, including the size of the installed pipes;
  • determination of the correct pipe length; determination of the features of the location of the chimney;
  • familiarization with the basic rules of assembly of the structure;
  • features of the passage of ceilings, the creation of insulation for the pipe and the output of the chimney pipe to the roof.

Before installing the chimney, you must correctly determine the size of the structure. This includes not only the length of the chimney, but also the diameter of the cross section of the chimney pipe. To make the most correct choice, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the regulatory requirements of SNiP. It is recommended to select the diameter according to the indicators of the thermal power of the furnace or boiler.

  • the pipe diameter must not be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet;
  • if the indicator of thermal power is less than three and a half kilowatts, the optimal indicator of the cross-section of the pipe should be 14 centimeters;
  • if the indicator of thermal power varies between 3.5-5.5 kilowatts, the diameter must be increased to twenty centimeters;
  • if the indicator of thermal power is 5.5-7.5 kilowatts, it is necessary to install a chimney with a diameter of 27 centimeters.

In this case, the length of the chimney must be determined in accordance with the following rules:

  • the minimum height indicator, which will make it possible to create the required draft, is 5 meters from the combustion chamber to the top;
  • if the roof is flat, then the chimney must necessarily rise above the roof by at least 0.5 meters;
  • do not forget to pay attention to the roofing material used during construction work. If the roof is made of flammable roofing material, the height of the pipe above the ridge should be one meter. The best option is one and a half meters.

Schemes for installation and installation of chimney sections

If you prefer the outdoor installation of the structure, through each usually meter, you need to attach the pipe to the wall. This is possible thanks to special brackets that help prevent collapse during strong exposure to wind. It is also important to pay attention to the interval with which the brackets are mounted on the chimney of the boiler room.

1, 4. Brackets 2. Tee 3. Plug 5. Insulator 6. Pipe

  • Triplets pos. 2 to choose in place in accordance with the area of \u200b\u200bthe nozzle of the device connected to the chimney.

Bracket for attaching pipes to a building wall

1. Console 2. Corner 3. Half-clamp 4,5,6 Bolt, Nut, Washer

  • It is also important to pay attention to the interval at which the brackets are mounted on the chimney.

Bracket for fixing the base of the chimney pipe

1. Console 2. Brace 3. Corner 4. Hairpin 5. Pipe 6. Bottom

The chimney passage knot through the wall of the building

  • The gaps between the bracket pipe and the tee are sealed with an asbestos cord of 30 mm.

Chimney insulator for passage through a building wall

An example of the execution of a sleeve (piece of pipe) when passing through a wall made of non-combustible materials.

The next option is installation inside the building. As a rule, the chimney is located on the outside of the building, but you can equip it right at home, for this you really have to create nodes of passage through the ceilings in the ceiling and roof. Here it will be necessary to pay special attention to the places where the pipe passes through the ceiling and what your floors (floor, ceiling) of combustible or non-combustible materials are made of.

1. Sandbox 2. Tee 3. Cap 4. Support structure 5. Apron 6. Pipe

Chimney insulator when passing through floors

  • After installation, the insulator must be filled with a non-combustible filler, for example sand.

Fixing the insulator to the ceiling

  • The orientation of the supporting structure is adopted depending on the supporting beams.

Chimney trip unit through combustible floor

Chimney trip unit through fireproof floor

Chimney trip through the roof (roof)

Roof support structure

  • The size of the supporting structure is taken depending on the melting between the rafters.

The final installation scheme of the chimney is determined by the owner of the house at his discretion.

Features of determining the height of the pipe based on its location

To determine this parameter, it is necessary to take into account the location of the chimney in relation to the construction of the ridge, this will help the scheme of the wind backwater zone.

In this case, the owner of the building should also not have difficulties:

  • if the distance between the pipe and the ridge is up to one and a half meters, the upper part of the pipe must be raised above the ridge by 50 centimeters;
  • if the chimney is located from one and a half meters to three meters from the ridge, its height can be on the same level with the ridge;
  • if the distance between the chimney and the ridge is more than three meters, the height can be fixed at the level of the contour located at an angle of ten degrees from the horizon of the ridge of the roof.

Note. Before you make a chimney, you must also pay attention to the presence of buildings nearby. If their height is greater than the residential object has, the top point of the chimney must exceed the top point of the extension roof by one meter. Thus, the made chimney will always be operated with maximum safety.

Pipe construction assembly

One sandwich segment has a height of one meter. During installation, one pipe is installed in another (in the socket). In the process of installing a chimney sandwich with your own hands, you must adhere to a strict sequence of work. So, for example, installation starts from the bottom of the furnace, and then smoothly go up. During installation, joints at the outside of the pipes always form. They need to be covered with a special plug that covers the insulation. Separate segments with a height of one meter are installed one in the other.

Note! Before installing the chimney correctly, it must be remembered that the pipe always has one narrowed end. It must be installed in the next pipe. Each link is collected in such a way that condensate released during operation cannot be delayed. It should drain down.

The joint must be made so that the inner pipe and the outer casing have a tight connection between themselves. Not owning specialized skills, it may initially seem that this work is problematic. You can simplify the task with one simple trick. Before installing the inner pipe, it is necessary to extend it by 15 centimeters, and then insert one pipe into another. Only after this can the connection of the outer casings be started.

Note. Sometimes manufacturers pack their own products in a special plastic film. Before you begin installing chimneys for gas boilers, it is imperative to get rid of it.

Assembling the design, it is important to strengthen all joints with special clamps. Usually they are included in the basic kit, but if you notice that they are not there, you will have to purchase them additionally. Get the clamps and pull them around the joint, it is important to pre-treat the joints themselves with a special sealant so that your structural layer of the chimney is not damaged during heating. On sale you can always find special compounds that are used for furnace equipment.

Construction of chimney pipes

Before you assemble the chimney, do not panic about possible difficulties. To properly assemble the structure, it must be remembered that this is just a product, the assembly of which is made of individual segments. In each of them there is a pipe, inside of which there is another one, but with a smaller diameter.

Between each pipe there is a special thermal insulation layer. Its type is selected depending on the scope and technical features of the furnace, boiler.

The outer layer is a casing made of stainless steel. The inner layer is also designed in stainless steel, but inside it is coated with a special anti-corrosion coating.

There are other varieties. For example, you can not only assemble a chimney from stainless steel, but also purchase products from copper, brass or ceramics. In this case, stainless steel is the highest priority, since all other varieties are characterized by high cost.

For example, if you assemble a chimney from plain ordinary steel, its service life will be limited by its wall thickness, since soot from flue gases contains sulfur which, when in contact with moisture, turns into acid, it will gradually turn such a chimney into a sieve.

On the good side, asbestos-cement pipes can also be noted; they are connected into a socket durable, but they are relatively large and fragile and, in my opinion, they have a temperature limit.

Thus, experts recommend installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe, where each of the parts is made of steel. Manufacturers prefer to install insulation between the pipes (mainly from basalt), which will positively affect the operation of the pipe.

The use of this design allows you to take advantage of a number of advantages. Firstly, basalt insulation does not collapse under the influence of temperature difference. Secondly, the product is characterized by increased resistance to chemical and physical stress. In terms of thermal insulation benefits, this material is one of the most effective. Different manufacturers prefer to install insulation with different thicknesses.

The minimum indicator is 26 millimeters, the maximum is 60. Such chimney pipes prevent the penetration of cold into the premises when the furnace is not in operation.

Output

By itself, installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe is not a complicated job. To build such a design is quite possible on its own. The main advantage in favor of a stainless steel chimney is the lack of the need to use bulky equipment to perform work. In the process of installation work, you must correctly select the height of the structure as a whole and the height from the roof of the building.

A correctly assembled chimney will always please with trouble-free and high-quality work for a long period of time. But if you do not understand all the intricacies of the installation of the chimney, it is best to turn to specialized specialists for help.

The efficiency and safety of the stove, fireplace or boiler depends on how competently the installation of the chimney in a private house was carried out. If earlier it depended on the professionalism of the stove-maker, today it is a matter of a competent choice of the owner of the house. The sandwich chimneys, which can be installed independently for any type of heating equipment, are in great demand, and deservedly. In this case, it is important to choose the pipes and mount them, observing all the necessary conditions.

Each type of fuel has its own rules and norms for smoke removal and installation, repair of heating equipment. They are set out in official documents:

  • SNiP 41-01-2003;
  • NPB 252-98;
  • VDPO.

Strictly following these standards is necessary in order to preserve the structure from fire and the life of households from poisoning. When burning, hot gases, ash and soot are formed, which must be removed through the pipe immediately. If the chimney in a private house is mounted with violations, then overheating of the walls or ceiling is possible.

The second danger is the release of carbon monoxide into the room. Carbon monoxide is odorless and colorless. It is heavier than air, so it concentrates closer to the floor. If inhaled, it leads to poisoning and death. Formed by a lack of oxygen in the furnace (poor draft). The common name is “silent killer”.

The main rules of the chimney device:

  • The oven must be on a platform independent of the structure. This is necessary so that in case of a drawdown of the foundation of the house, the heating equipment does not "lead" and does not destroy.
  • Combustible materials for walls, ceilings or roof ceilings should be no closer than 38 cm from the wall of the sandwich pipe. The space is filled with a heat insulator. Additionally, wooden structures are insulated with an asbestos or galvanized screen.
  • The fewer turns, the better the traction.
  • A rotation of 90 degrees is replaced by 2 by 45 degrees.
  • The height of the pipe depends on the proximity of the roof ridge at the outlet. Near the ridge, the pipe is led 50 cm up. At a distance of 1.5 to 3 m from the ridge, the pipe is sufficient to reach the ridge. When the distance of the output pipe from the ridge more than 3 m, the calculation of the height of the pipe is carried out from the ratio of the angle between the horizon of the ridge and the top of the pipe. It should be 10 degrees.
  • First of all, an adapter is put on the nozzle of the boiler or furnace, which is pre-coated with a heat-resistant sealant (withstanding temperatures from 1000 to 1500 degrees) and clamped with a metal clamp.
  • If the chimney leaves vertically (for example, in a bath stove), then installation of another single-wall pipe is required, on which a tank for heating water or a mesh-heater can be placed. It is impossible to install a sandwich right away, since the thermal insulation layer from severe overheating will very soon sinter to the state of the stone, will cease to fulfill its function, and this section of the chimney will fail.

If the chimney is installed on the boiler with the output to the street, then after the adapter pipe, a horizontal section is mounted, which should go out. The length of this section, as already mentioned, is no more than a meter, and it is necessary to give it a slight slope outward. The layer of thermal insulator remaining open must be closed with a special plug.

  • To pass through the wall, a hole is punched in it so that there is a gap between the pipe and the wall material. If the wall is made of hot material, then the gap should be at least 200 mm. Usually a square opening of 400 × 400 mm is made. Inside, its walls are sheathed with minerite (basalt cardboard). Then the factory or home-made walk-through block is inserted.

A sandwich pipe is passed through it and connected to the boiler. The space of the passage block is densely filled with basalt mineral wool. Outside, this unit is closed with a metal plate or a decorative rosette included in the kit. The remaining slots can be filled with sealant.


Ready-made walk-through unit operating on the principle of “sandwich in sandwich”

Some manufacturers provide special passage blocks with an already filled thermal insulation layer. The choice of a particular model will depend on the material and the thickness of the wall or ceiling.

If the walls are made of fireproof material, it is possible to place a sleeve from an asbestos-cement pipe for passage, and fix the sandwich element inserted into it in the center using mineral wool packing, and also cover on both sides with decorative metal plates.


  • At the exit to external brackets are mounted on the outside of the wall, on which the plate rests. It will serve as the main support of the vertical part of the chimney. Structurally, it can immediately include an audit unit with a condensate outlet valve.
  • After the pipe is brought out, the installation of the vertical part begins. And here you need to understand the intricacies of installing pipes "by smoke" and "by condensate."

Two installation principles: “smoke” and “condensate”

- If the upper section of the pipe is worn with a wider mouth on the lower, then this is called a “smoke” connection - the upward gases do not have barriers for free exit. However, in this case, inevitably, a small gap remains, directed upward (shown in the diagram by a red arrow), where the falling drops of condensate will fall. This will most negatively affect the work of the chimney - the insulation period will soon become damp and will no longer cope with the task of thermal insulation of the internal channel. And this, in turn, means even more condensate formation, decrease in draft and, as a result, decrease in boiler efficiency.

- In the case of “condensate” mounting, moisture drops freely flow down the surface, in condensate trap. And in order to prevent the exhaust gases from escaping, the outer pipe of the sandwich structure must be mounted “by smoke” (blue arrow in the diagram). In addition, a layer of sealant is applied at this point and tightened with a clamp, so that reliable obturation from the exit of smoke through the sandwich pipe is ensured. A small amount of gases that can penetrate into the insulation layer will contribute to its ventilation.

Therefore, the installation adheres to the rules: on the first, horizontal section to the tee, installation is carried out “by smoke”. Throughout the rest chimney sandwich the inner pipe is installed “by condensate”, and the outer pipe is “by smoke” using sealant and carefully tightening the assembly with a clamp.

Installation of the internal pipe "condensate"
  • Install both the external and internal pipes at the same time. chimney sandwich almost impossible. Usually do this. The inner pipe extends slightly outward with a tapered end (150 - 200 mm) and is inserted tightly into the socket of the element already mounted below until it stops. Then the narrowed part of the outer pipe located below is smeared with sealant, and the thermal insulation block and the outer pipe remaining on top are shifted down to the most tight connection. A clamp is put on, and tightening is performed in the region of the skirt of the upper pipe (as shown in the diagram).
  • Installation continues in the same order. upwards. At certain intervals, they are attached to the wall brackets with clamps that fix the cabin in a vertical or inclined position at the desired distance from the surface of the building.
  • If the construction is heavy, then a discharge bracket with a corresponding plate equipped with a connecting element to continue the installation above is provided.
  • Installation ends with the installation of the cone and the required tip.
  • If necessary, a special clamp with three eyes is attached to the pipe for attaching stretch marks. Stretch marks are mounted on the opposite side to the fixed parts of the roof or building.

Video: installation workshop chimney sandwich outside the house

Features of installation with the internal location of the chimney

During installation chimney sandwich indoors, there are nuances of passing it through the ceilings and the roof.

  • First of all, it can be noted once again that after the section with a single-wall pipe, an element with a gate valve is installed at the inlet from the boiler so that the heat does not immediately leave vertically into the atmosphere.
  • At the transition to the sandwich, a start plug is required to close the protruding edge of the insulating layer.

  • The passage of the pipe through the ceiling in general terms corresponds to the already described passage through the wall of combustible materials.

Be sure to attach a passage unit (box-shaped or cylindrical) to the ceiling below, which must be tightly filled with thermal insulation material - mineral wool, or expanded clay is allowed in this case.


From above, the passage assembly is then closed with a metal plate.

As already mentioned, some manufacturers provide in detail systems are special feed-through modules that are a kind of "sandwich in a sandwich." Working with such elements is even easier - an opening of the desired shape and size is cut out under them, the block is installed in it, and then a sandwich pipe is threaded through the hole.


  • When designing the chimney system, the location of the floor beams and roof rafters must be taken into account - the pipe should run approximately in the middle between adjacent elements. If necessary, sometimes you have to slightly change the direction of the chimney, using 45 ° bends for this. The use of rectangular bends for this purpose is prohibited.
  • The joining of pipes in the thickness of the overlap or at the level of the roof is completely excluded. It is necessary to observe the indent from the joint to the level of overlap or roof of at least 250 300 mm

  • During the passage, an opening is usually cut out, usually of a rectangular shape.

  • Then, through this window, the next section of the chimney is drawn.
  • It is necessary to ensure accurate positioning pipes in the center of this opening. This can be done using a metal sheet with an elliptical hole cut out, mounted on the back of the roof, or even simply fixing the chimney with metal profiles.

  • Then a special roofing module is put on the pipe - a conical rat having an angle corresponding to the steepness of the roof slope. It is attached to the roofing, and on top is closed by an okapnik, which is fixed with a clamp or a locking screw.
  • The upper edge of the metal base plate of the rat, if possible, lead under the roofing material. If this is not possible, a thorough seal with sealant is performed.

Elastic rats are very convenient in their work (they are often called “Master Flash”). They can be used at almost any slope steepness, including mounting on a relief roofing (slate, corrugated board, etc.). The hole in the conical part is cut out of a slightly smaller diameter than that of the pipe passing through it, to ensure maximum sealing. The supporting part “Master Flash” can be given the desired shape, and then, after the bottom surface is coated with a layer of sealant, this unit is attached to the roof with self-tapping screws.

Finished Roof Sandwich Chimney Roof

The final stage does not have any features - the same installation of the head with the necessary elements.

Video: editing chimney sandwich with penetration through the ceiling and roof

So, to perform an independent installation of a chimney sandwich, at first glance, is not so difficult. However, this event requires sustained skills, increased accuracy, and caution, especially when working at height. There are no trifles in this matter, because an incorrectly assembled system can cause a fire or other small and big troubles.

Homeowners, as a rule, take the organization of heating in their home very seriously, choose the safest boiler models, and turn to experienced stove-makers. However, it is sometimes overlooked that incorrect installation of the chimney is often even more dangerous.

The chimney is the most important element of the heating system in a private house, the assembly of which is carried out in accordance with building codes and fire safety requirements. The installation of the chimney, performed without observing these rules, is fraught with irreversible consequences - a fire or carbon monoxide poisoning in the house. Today's article will talk about the types of chimneys, the device and installation methods.

The chimney serves to transfer smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere, it starts from the inlet pipe of the heating device in the house and ends above the roof ridge with a protective umbrella. In private construction, the following types are mainly used:

The material from which the chimney is made can be correctly selected based on three factors: compliance with the material of the heating device, low thermal conductivity and tightness of the joints.

Chimney outlet methods

The main task of the chimney is the removal of smoke outside the house, which can be organized in several ways. The choice of pipe insertion location depends on the location of the heater, the free area and the type of chimney. Use the following pipe placement options:


The external placement is well suited for the bulky construction of a brick chimney, and if you take a metal pipe through the wall, you will have to take care of additional insulation or the use of special sandwich pipes.

Chimney requirements

The selection of elements is carried out taking into account the requirements of the technical characteristics of the heating device. In order for the system to work smoothly, it is required to observe the basic principles of designing chimneys:

  1. A round shape is preferred since combustion products and dust accumulate in the corners of the pipe. Round chimneys require less cleaning than rectangular and square chimneys.
  2. The cross section of the pipe must not be less than the diameter of the pipe of the heater. It is estimated that for every kilowatt of power, 8 sq. M is required to ensure the proper level of traction. see section. Usually information about the required size of the chimney is contained in the instructions for the heater.
  3. Each heater requires the installation of its own chimney. In some cases, you can deviate from this rule, but then the devices should be located at a height above the distance between the connection points - 1 m or more. And the value of the cross-section of the pipe should take into account the total power of the heat generators.
  4. The total length of the horizontal sections of the chimney can not exceed 1 m, violation of this rule reduces traction.
  5. The chimney ends at 0.5-1.5 m above the ridge, on a flat roof - at 0.5 m above the surface.

The main criterion for the selection of pipes - fire safety requirements and compliance with the heat generating device, appearance, aesthetics and space saving inside the house - are secondary.

Installation sequence

Installation of the internal chimney begins with the drawing up of a diagram and calculating the required number of pipe segments. To complete the assembly correctly, the device is performed in the following order:

The scheme for the output of the chimney through the roof from corrugated board


After the installation is completed, it is necessary to start the heating systems, check the draft and tightness of the joints - even a small slight smoke indicates serious problems, the solution of which is unsafe to postpone.

Installing a chimney in the house is a responsible event, the comfort and safety of the operation of the heating system depends on the quality of its implementation, so follow the recommendations of the manufacturers, the installation technology.

Video instruction