Today, the owners of houses and apartments are massively replacing old wooden windows with practical and durable PVC structures. And this choice is quite justified for a number of reasons:
- Due to the increased thermal insulation, material costs for heating are significantly reduced.
- High functionality and modern materials make it possible to refuse additional work on window maintenance: tinting frames to give them an aesthetic appearance; caulking gaps for window insulation for the winter; freeing the window from insulation in the spring; pulling gauze on the sash to protect against mosquitoes and other midges and other work that is involved in the operation of wooden window structures.
- A sealed double-glazed window well insulates the room from noise, allowing you to maintain home comfort and preserving the peace of the owners.
- The structures have a long service life while maintaining impeccable functionality and aesthetic appearance.
- The cost of a plastic window is lower than that of a similar wood product. For example, the price of an unpainted double wooden frame without glass measuring 120x90 cm is 3600 rubles, and a plastic window is 5500 rubles. However, a wooden window still needs to be glazed and painted, and this is an additional cost of time and materials. Whereas the plastic window is already ready for installation.
Those who are going to undertake the installation of plastic windows with their own hands often lack basic knowledge of how to do it correctly. Therefore, we present this article here in the form of instructions to help owners who want to complete the installation on their own.
The installation of plastic windows has a number of nuances. For example, PVC windows are not such universal designs. And their use has a number of limitations. So, it is not recommended to use plastic windows in cold rooms without heating (verandas, canopies, attics, garages, baths, etc.) By the way, companies for the production and installation of windows prefer not to talk about this. In addition, problems may arise when installing PVC window profiles in multi-storey buildings above the 4th floor.
Choosing a contractor to replace windows in the house, you may face the fact that the masters simply will not delve into the intricacies of this issue. There are only a few of those who are in control of the situation and can comprehensively illuminate it.
To begin with, let's try to figure out the question, does it make any sense to install PVC windows with our own hands? Contrary to popular belief, the installation of windows is not so difficult. To perform it, you do not need to stock up on professional equipment and gain special experience for a long time. The installation procedure itself consists of two stages:
- dismantling of the old structure;
- installation of a new plastic window.
Dismantling usually takes from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. Directly installing the window (we take the middle window measuring 2x2 m) will take another couple of hours. It turns out that it will take a maximum of three and a half hours to replace one window. Therefore, for Saturday-Sunday, you can freely change at least 2 windows without resorting to the help of specialists. Considering that installers charge $ 40-60 for the installation of each window, we will get quite good savings. Some companies set the cost of installation as a percentage of the cost of the windows. This amount varies with different specialists and is about 10-40% of the price that is proposed to be paid for the windows. Also, when ordering windows from them, specialized companies can deliver a new structure to your home and dismantle it for free.
By entrusting the installation of windows to specialists, you can demand the following guarantees:
- when buying windows from a third-party company, installers provide a guarantee only for the assembly seams and their filling, the correct geometry of individual elements and the functionality of the window structure for 1 year after the work performed. Since self-assembly practically deprives you of the guarantee for window structures, you need to more carefully approach the choice of products. It is better to prefer windows made at the factory, in compliance with all technical requirements and conditions. Handicraft products are a "pig in a poke", the quality and functionality of which can surprise you. In this regard, for the purchase of window structures, it is advisable to contact directly a production company that has been on the market for a long time and has good reviews from numerous customers. By the way, if you order windows in the winter or spring period (i.e. out of season), you can get a significant discount;
- when purchasing windows from a company that carries out installation work, the customer receives a guarantee for the fittings - from a year to 5 years (the more expensive the windows, the longer the warranty period, as a rule);
- if the windows are installed by hand, then a guarantee for the fittings must be required at the place of purchase of the structures. Responsibility for the high-quality performance of the seams will have to be taken entirely upon yourself.
DIY installation of pvc windows should be done if available:
- a couple of free days (as an option - a weekend);
- hard work and desire to learn something new;
- desire to save money.
If all of the above is present, then the recommendations outlined in this article will allow you to successfully replace the windows in the house, doing it no worse than a professional installation team. Actually, a whole team is not required to install a window, two people will be enough, one of whom will carry out the installation, and the other will hold the structure and supply the necessary tools. Despite the apparent complexity, independent installation of PVC windows is a rather simple process, which is a combination of several simple operations performed in a given sequence. Before proceeding with the installation, you need to order a window, and for this you need to correctly perform preliminary measurements. So…
Window measurements: everything you need to know
First, we determine the type of window opening.
It can be of two types: either with a quarter or without a quarter.
We measure the window without a quarter
A clean window opening is the easiest to measure. Such an opening is found only in a new house. We measure the opening itself in the vertical plane and subtract 5 centimeters from the resulting figure. We have the height. Of these 5 centimeters, 1.5 centimeters will be filled with foam in the upper part of the window, and 3.5 centimeters are laid for installing the window sill. Similarly, we measure the opening in the horizontal plane, subtract 3 centimeters for the gaps (1.5 cm each on the right and left) and get the width of the window.
Next, we measure the length and width of the low tide and the window sill. To the obtained dimensions, you need to add from 5 to 20 centimeters in order to slightly "embed" the window sill into the wall from both sides. If you are getting down to business for the first time, then lay the size of the window sill more - during installation, all unnecessary will be cut off. As a rule, window sills and ebb tides have a uniform width (10-60 cm) and length (up to six meters). With minimal dimensions, installers will be able to select and deliver the most suitable parts.
We measure the window with a quarter
Width: we measure the opening in the horizontal plane between the quarters and add three centimeters to the resulting figure (one and a half centimeters from each side). Height: measure the distance from the bottom edge of the opening to the edge of the upper quarter. Nothing is required to add or subtract from the resulting figure.
The window sill and low tide are measured as in the first option.
As a result, after all the measurements made, we should write down:
- window height and width;
- length and width of the low tide;
- the length and width of the window sill.
When replacing old windows, the previous structure is located in the opening, which means that the opening itself cannot be measured. Therefore, it is necessary to take measurements from the window frame, which will subsequently be dismantled.
When ordering a window, try to find out what comes with the windows. The following elements are usually included:
- windowsill;
- end caps. To choose the right plugs, it is necessary to indicate the width of the window sill (protruding part from the wall);
- installation profile;
- anchor plates - structural fasteners.
If these parts are not included in the kit, you will have to purchase them additionally.
In addition to dimensions, other data may be required:
- profile view (number of cameras);
- double-glazed window option (number of glasses and air chambers);
- type of opening of window sashes. The most common: swing, swing-out with ventilation, combined. In addition, in some cases, blind windows are installed without the possibility of opening. The type of opening is determined by the fittings installed in the structure. Ease of use, functionality and durability of the window depend on the type and quality of the hardware components. There are several types of window opening. For convenient ventilation, the window must be equipped with tilt-and-turn fittings. Deaf options for ventilation are unsuitable for ventilation, conventional flaps without turning are inconvenient.
Thermal conductivity and sound insulation of the window: so that noise and cold do not get into the house
Thermal conductivity of plastic windows
In addition to the manufacturer, when choosing a window, it is necessary to take into account such quality as the thermal conductivity of the structure. According to SNiPs and territorial building codes, the heat transfer resistance coefficient of a window varies depending on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. Structures that are installed in residential premises should not have a heat transfer resistance lower than that indicated for a specific region of residence.
Thermal conductivity directly depends on the design and type of glass used in the glass unit. If you order windows with energy-saving glass, the thermal insulation of structures increases by 10-15%. The cost of energy-saving glasses is about 250 rubles. for 1 sq. m.
The thermal conductivity of a window may decrease due to poor-quality installation, less often - a factory defect. Very often, in the process of an illiterate installation, a chip or crack occurs on a glass unit, and the structure loses one of its main qualities - tightness. Visually, this manifests itself as fogging of the inner surface of the glasses. As a result, in winter the room will become colder and the house will have to be heated more.
To improve the parameters of the thermal conductivity of the window, you can prepare the support profile. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, the support profile is the weakest point in the window structure. To fix the drain, it will have to be drilled, which will further worsen the thermal conductivity parameters. In order to normalize the heat-shielding qualities of the window, the inner volume of the support profile can be filled with polyurethane foam. This should be done the day before installing the window so that the foam completely solidifies. GOST does not provide for foaming of the support profile; window companies also do not practice this operation.
Soundproofing properties of plastic windows
This parameter is essential if there is a busy motorway or railway near the house. However, it is always more pleasant if outside noises from the street do not penetrate into the house. And this cannot be achieved without high-quality soundproofing of the window.
Methods for installing PVC windows: to unpack or not to unpack - that is the question!
When installing windows, you need to choose the type of installation - with unpacking (unpacking) or without unpacking. Do you want to understand how these two methods differ from each other? Take a look at the diagram of a plastic window.
- Frame- one of the main elements of the window. The frame is formed of a reinforced PVC profile and several sealed chambers. The number of cameras can vary from two or more.
- Glass unit- the largest window element, occupies about 80% of its area. It is a sealed glass structure. Depending on the number of glasses and air spaces between them, it can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. The double-glazed window fits snugly to the frame due to the seal.
- Glazing beads- details that allow the glass unit to be mechanically fixed to the frame.
- Impost- a divider, thanks to which the window is divided into several sashes. Distinguish between single-leaf, double-leaf, tricuspid, etc. constructions.
- Fixed sash- a leaf without an opening mechanism.
- Transom- opening sash.
- Window sill(other names - bottom, mounting, stand) profile- the supporting element of the window structure. It is necessary for the correct installation and fastening of the plastic window sill inside the room and the external drain.
- Fittings- all movable parts of the structure intended for opening, closing, fixing the transom when ventilating the room.
Unboxing window setting method
(in some regions the term "unpacking" is used, the essence is the same). This method is based on preliminary disassembly of the structure: glazing beads and double-glazed windows. After the through fastening of the frame to the wall, all removed elements are reinstalled.
To quickly and correctly unpack the structure, you need a strong knife or chisel. We insert a knife blade or a chisel between the glazing bead and the frame, with gentle blows on the handle we knock the glazing bead out of the groove until a gap appears. Then we bend the knife (chisel) and push the elements apart with the wide side. We consistently do this with all the glazing beads that hold the glass unit in the sash. This procedure is not recommended with the sharp end of a knife, since the risk of damage to the window or glazing beads increases. To remove the glass unit, be sure to wear gloves, otherwise you will injure your hands on the sharp corners of the structure. If the window is not deaf and there are sashes, remove them. If there is a transom in one of the doors, it is easier to remove it all as an assembly without removing the glass unit. Everything, the structure is ready for installation.
Disadvantages of the method: more time consuming, takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, 30-60 minutes are added for each window). Often in the window installed in this way, the glass unit fogs up. In addition, the appearance of glazing beads (scratches, chips) may be damaged if they are carelessly removed / installed. It is important to perform all actions clearly and carefully. After removing the packages, you need to put them in a safe place where there is no chance of accidentally hitting and breaking them.
Advantages and scope of the method: installation of windows with unpacking is more reliable and gives a firm fixation of the frame to the wall. This method should be chosen in the following cases:
- it is planned to mount windows in multi-storey buildings (from the 15th floor). When installing windows on the lower floors, where there is no windage and gusts of wind, they do not need to be unpacked;
- installation of structures of significant dimensions is to be done. However, in this case, combined installation is allowed (the balcony block is attached without unpacking).
Window installation method without unpacking
This method does not require dismantling the structure. That is, it is not required to remove double-glazed windows and glazing beads. The frame is fastened to the wall not with dowels, but with fasteners pre-installed outside the wall.
Advantages and scope of the method: installation of windows without unpacking saves time, minimizing the process. This method is recommended for use where there is no need for increased fastening strength: when replacing standard windows in private houses, as well as, as mentioned earlier, in multi-storey buildings below the 15th floor.
Installation of windows with and without unpacking: sequence, features, professional advice
The installation of plastic windows is specific, therefore, this work requires a special set of tools and materials, without which it is almost impossible to install windows correctly and accurately. If you cannot buy the necessary things in a specialized store, you can contact a window company - the professionals will surely find what is missing.
- construction plumb line and level
- screwdriver and hammer drill
- drill with a set of drills
- gun and foam;
- hacksaw or jigsaw
- small crowbar or pry bar
- gun for silicone
- chisel or wide-bladed knife
- mounting wedges
- tape measure and pencil
- roll-up moisture-proof material
- iron sheets (galvanized) and metal scissors (required for self-production of plums)
The main stages of installing PVC windows:
- dismantling of the previous structure and window sill;
- preparation of a new window for installation;
- frame markings for subsequent fastening;
- fixing the fasteners to the frame;
- drawing holes for fasteners;
- leveling the plastic structure;
- fixing the structure in the opening;
- ebb installation (can be done at the end of the process);
- intermediate adjustment of fittings;
- foaming of cavities between the window opening and the frame;
- installation of a window sill;
- finishing fittings adjustment.
Each of the stages of installing a plastic window should be considered separately.
Dismantling of old window structures
Preliminary stage: preparing the window for installation
Windows with movable sashes are mounted closed. When installing a window in an open view, there is a risk of deformation of the structure (foam, which will fill the gap between the opening and the frame, can bend the frame). After foaming, the window is left for 12 hours, during which it must not be opened. And in order to avoid accidental opening of the sash, you can postpone the installation of the handle until the installation of the window is completed.
It is not recommended to remove the tape, which is glued to the surface of the window to protect it from damage, before the installation of the structure and finishing of the slopes is completed.
Sequence of installation of PVC windows
Fastening points on the frame
We retreat from the corner of the frame 5-15 centimeters and outline a place for the extreme fixing element. It is necessary to fasten the frame from 4 sides, the fasteners are located after 70-100 cm. If a support profile is used, then the frame is not fastened from below.
Fixing the fasteners to the frame
Fasteners include self-tapping screws, anchor plates, U-shaped suspensions for drywall.
Anchor plates and hangers have the same cost - $ 0.05 (wholesale), $ 0.15 (retail). However, anchor plates are thicker than hangers. When buying, give preference to products made of thicker metal.
The fasteners must be firmly attached to the metal frame of the frame. In order for the element to be well fixed, self-tapping screws must be taken for metal. Such products have a drill at the end and a diameter of 4 mm. You can also use simple self-tapping screws, only in this case you need to first mark the holes in the frame with a drill.
Applying grooves for fasteners
We place the frame with the fasteners fixed on it in the window opening, then knock them out in the opening in the corresponding places of the recess (2 - 4 cm deep, the width is the same as the fastener size). Fasteners will later be sunk into these recesses. By completing this procedure, we will make it easier for ourselves to work on finishing the slopes.
Tip: when installing a window without a mounting plate, you should put blocks of wood or other dense material under it so that it rises to the height of the window sill. Then it will be possible to attach the window sill not to the window frame, but under it. With a mounting plate, the frame will automatically rise to the desired height. Usually the mounting strip is already fixed to the frame and does not need additional fixation.
Aligning to the level of the window structure
This stage is the longest in the entire window installation procedure. However, by aligning the window in the vertical and horizontal planes, we automatically give it the correct rectangular shape. To level the structure, you need wooden wedges or blocks that are placed under the frame. A pair of lower wedges is set first, and you can immediately fix the window from above with an anchor plate. Next we set two wedges at the top, then left and right at the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, you also need to put a wedge under it. During these steps, it is important to ensure that the vertical struts do not deflect to another plane. It is convenient to align the window with two people, when one supports the structure, the second inserts wedges.
Fastening the window to the opening
Having achieved a perfectly flat position of the window, i.e. having set it correctly in level, we can proceed to fastening the structure. To do this, use dowels (diameter 6-8 mm, length 75-80 mm) or anchors (diameter 6-8 mm). The latter have a higher cost, but provide a more reliable fixation. They are recommended for use if the wall consists of shell rock, brick or foam concrete. Fastening on anchor plates is used if the block structure contains a thermal insert and the frame cannot be mechanically fastened in the mounting plane. The dowel, driven into concrete, is capable of withstanding a load of up to 60 kg, which is quite enough to fix the window. For wooden walls, you can use screws with a diameter of eight millimeters.
Advice: do not immediately tighten the screws on the sides of the frame completely, leave 1 cm all the way. The frame will not go anywhere, and you will have the opportunity to check the uniformity of the clearances on the sides and, if necessary, move the frame to one side or the other. After the final attachment, this will be more difficult. If the uniformity of the gaps is satisfactory, the horizontal / vertical structure of the structure is maintained, you can fully fix the frame by screwing in the screws from above and tightening the remaining screws on the sides. After that, it is worth checking the horizontal and vertical structure of the structure again.
Fastening the ebb of a plastic window
Ebb installation can be done at the very end. Ebb tide can be bought ready-made, or you can do it yourself. It is best to fix this element under the window - this will eliminate the penetration of water where it connects to the frame. Upon completion of the installation of the drain, the space between it and the profile is filled with foam. In the absence of the possibility of attaching an ebb tide under the frame, it is fixed directly to it, for which they use 9-mm self-tapping screws for metal.
Intermediate hardware adjustment
It is necessary to tighten or loosen the window hinges so that the sash moves silently and freely when opening and closing. An open sash should not slam shut by itself. Correctly adjusted hinges will keep it in position.
Moving, the sash "strikes" where the locking fittings are installed? Move this element slightly lower or higher.
Foaming gaps between the opening and the frame
It is important to fill the gaps so that there are no voids left. Large gaps (more than two centimeters) are foamed in several steps, the break between which is two hours. With this approach, there is no danger that the foam will deform the window when it expands. In addition, the consumption of polyurethane foam is saved, there are no surpluses that have to be cut off, and the quality of the assembly seam is improved.
Since the foam hardens under the influence of atmospheric moisture, a lack of moisture in the room can lead to poor-quality polymerization. To avoid this, you need to lightly spray the area between the window opening and the frame with water before foaming, and after filling the cavity, spray the surface of the foam itself with water. If the air temperature during installation does not exceed five degrees, then winter or all-season foam is used. In warmer weather, you can apply summer polyurethane foam.
After foam polymerization, it is necessary to protect it from ultraviolet radiation. This stage can be combined with the finishing of the slope. But if you do not want to do the slopes yet, or plan to do it later, then the foam must be closed immediately, since it quickly collapses due to exposure to direct sunlight. In this case, we prepare a cement-sand mortar at the rate of 1 part of cement and 2 parts of sand, or we dilute tile glue and cover the foam with any of these materials. In addition, you can purchase PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) at a hardware store and cover the polyurethane foam with it. However, the cost of the tape is quite high (from $ 3 per linear meter), so the first options are used more often.
Installation of the window sill
1. Pruning. Window sills have a standard length and width and have a good margin, both in length and width. Before installation, the window sill is cut using a jigsaw, grinder or saw with small teeth.
2. Leveling. We move the window sill to the support profile and set it on a level using wooden blocks or other materials at hand.
We close the side sections of the window sill with end plates. It is better to glue the plugs to the ends with super glue.
Pressing lightly with your hand on the windowsill, we make sure that it does not sag. In some cases, the window sill is not installed evenly, but at a slight angle (no more than 3 degrees) "from the window". Thanks to this slope, possible condensation does not drain under the window.
Foam the cavity under the windowsill.
After foaming, we put something heavy on the surface of the windowsill (you can use plastic water bottles, books for this purpose) and leave it in this form for 0.5 days.
If you do not press down the window sill with a load, then it will bend up under the influence of the foam.
3. One day is enough for the foam to completely harden. After that, its remains, ugly sticking out of the gap under the windowsill, must be cut off with a clerical knife.
4. If initially the window sill had irregularities, then during installation a gap may remain between its upper part and the frame. It is neatly filled with silicone. It should be borne in mind that this material has low biostability and can turn black from fungus. The gap will not appear if, in advance (before installation), the plates of galvanized iron in the shape of the letter "Z" are fixed on the window sill profile. In addition to the fact that these plates will allow you to firmly grind the window sill, they will simplify the task of aligning it.
Final adjustment of the window
At this stage, you can remove the protective tape from the window structure and finally screw on the handle. If the finishing of the slopes is postponed, then do not remove the tape until the end of all finishing work.
Possible errors when installing windows
We list here the mistakes that are often made when installing windows and can negatively affect the usability and service life of the structure:
- Installation is carried out with glazing beads outward. This reduces the burglary resistance of the window, since in this case the glazing beads can be easily removed from the outside and the glass unit can be pulled out.
- The window is poorly aligned, which makes it difficult to open and close.
- The polyurethane foam is not protected from the rays of the sun, as a result of which it is destroyed.
- Due to incorrect measurements or too low fastening of the window structure, the window sill cannot be placed under the frame and has to be fixed directly to it.
- The window structure is not fixed by any fastening elements and is held only by foam. Then cracks may appear on the slopes, since foaming is not a full-fledged fastening. Over time, it loses its strength and the window becomes so mobile that it can fall out.
We hope that after reading the article, you will be able to successfully cope with the installation of PVC windows. And even if you decide to contact the installation organization, you will be able to understand and control this process at all stages.
If earlier you or your friends used the services of firms for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that the installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first (for more details on the norms, see GOST 30971-02).
Consists of several stages.
Note! The manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.
Nevertheless, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, you can save a decent amount of money this way.
Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST
Stage 1. Measurements
In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.
Note! The quarter is a 6 cm wide inner frame (or ¼ brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and reinforces the structure as a whole.
If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on the anchors, and the foam will be covered with special cover strips. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.
- First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster to make the result more accurate.
- Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).
Note! Measurements need to be repeated several times and take the smallest result.
To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.
The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.
To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm for the bend to the already existing drainage. Also, this takes into account the width of the insulation and cladding (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).
The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the obtained figure. With regard to the departure, then it should overlap the heating radiator by a third.
Note! are measured at the end of the installation.
Stage 2. Order
After measurements, the finished drawing should be referred to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:
In the first option, you will have to pull the bag out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has its disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is put assembled, then it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.
Prices for a popular line of windows
Stage 3. Preparation
This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is vacated, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).
Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. For this, the glazing bead is slightly pry off with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical glazing beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.
Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the awnings. The handle is turned to "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.
Note! Mullions are special jumpers intended for dividing the sashes.
Then you need to make a markup for the anchors and make holes along it - two from the bottom / top and three on each side. This requires anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.
If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, aerated concrete), then the fastening is performed using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight each).
Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled in the day before installation. So the element will not freeze.
Stage 4. Dismantling work
This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before the installation of a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out together with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawed.
Step 1. First, the sealant and thermal insulation are removed.
Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is peeled off.
Step 4. The adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.
Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. The polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.
Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window
Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to align the structure), only after that it is attached to the wall. The underlays can be left as additional fasteners.
Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.
The correct position of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.
Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. Typically, traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.
Step 4. If the window has risen evenly, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall (approximately 6-10 cm) is drilled with a perforator through the previously prepared holes in the structure. The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the flatness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.
Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will "skew".
Prices for polyurethane foams and nail gun cleaners
Polyurethane foam and nail gun cleaners
Stage 6. Drainage
Outside, an outflow is attached to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture penetration into the structure.
The edges of the low tide are recessed into the walls by a few centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.
Note! The bottom slot is also sealed before installation.
Step 7. Assembling the window
After fixing the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.
Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).
Step 2. The leaves are opened, their tightness is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening / closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is installed level.
Step 3. The assembly seam is closed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.
Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will "lead". If done correctly, the foam will come out a few centimeters after drying.
Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.
Stage 8. Installation of the window sill
Step 1. The sill is trimmed so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic
Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while, until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.
Video - Installation instructions for plastic windows
conclusions
Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get down to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already "set").
The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are also some nuances - such, for example, as installing a parapet to create a partition.
Find out how to do it right in our new article.
Plastic windows have a well-deserved reputation for being functional, reliable, durable and aesthetic designs. They are becoming more and more popular and are confidently replacing wooden windows familiar to many people.
Plastic windows have gained a reputation for being strong, durable and reliable structures.
Their additional advantages include the fact that, with a strong desire, almost anyone can install plastic windows on their own. And this is a big plus, because for the installation, experts ask for quite a lot of money. In addition, having figured out how to install a plastic window, you will independently control the entire process and will be able to do everything in accordance with the technology.
How to determine the size of the future plastic window
Before ordering plastic windows, you need to figure out exactly what the structure should be. And this preparatory stage begins with taking measurements. When making measurements on your own, the home master should know that there are window openings without a quarter and with it. The measurement procedure for the two different types of openings will also differ.
Option with a quarter involves taking measurements in the following order. First, you need to measure the opening between the quarters in the narrowest place and add 3-4 cm to the resulting value. This will be the width of the structure. Additionally, make sure that the certain width of the future plastic window exceeds the largest distance between the vertical quarters. To determine the height of the future window, measure the distance between the lower plane of the opening and the upper horizontal quarter. This will determine the value you need.
In the case when the installation of a plastic window is carried out in the opening without the above-mentioned quarter, to determine the appropriate size, it is simply necessary to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 cm from the width.
Additionally, determine what size the window sill and ebb should be if you plan to replace them. No complications should arise with this operation, you just need to take into account the following important factors.
When determining the width of the ebb, the future thermal insulation or cladding must be taken into account. According to the standards, the ebb should protrude from the vertical of the wall by 5-10 cm. The width of the window sill is calculated taking into account its future functional purpose. For example, if you want to plant potted flowers on it, it is better to order a wider design. In most cases, when selecting a window sill, the calculation is carried out so that the free part of this element overlaps the heating batteries.
The length of the window sill should be 8-10 cm longer than the width of the opening. The edges should be recessed into the slope cavity by at least 5 cm.
Back to the table of contents
Window ordering and preparation for work
At the next stage, you need to go along with the measurements to a company specializing in the production of plastic windows. By the way, if you do not want to waste time measuring or doubt that you can do everything correctly, order this service from the same company. Most firms offer it free of charge, provided that the window is ordered from them.
In addition to the size of the window, you need to define the following parameters:
- The number of chambers in a glass unit.
- The number of cameras in the window profile.
- Availability of fittings and necessary fasteners.
The consultant will tell you in detail about the features of each option. You can prepare in advance. So, if the winters in your region are not very cold, and the street outside the window is not very noisy, a window with two glass panes and a 60 mm wide profile will be quite enough. Further, already be guided by the peculiarities of the climate and the environment.
For self-installation of a plastic window, you will need the following:
To install windows, you will need: a hammer, drill, screwdriver, building level, etc.
- A gun for polyurethane foam and the foam itself.
- Drill with variable speed and perforation mode.
- Small ax and hammer.
- Metal scissors.
- A sharp knife, a clerical one will do.
- Building level.
- Chisel.
- Grinder.
- Nail puller.
- Electric jigsaw. If you don't have one, you can use a fine-toothed hacksaw.
- Putty knife.
Buy additionally from materials:
- All-purpose construction adhesive.
- Wooden beam with a total length of 150-200 cm and dimensions of 2x4 cm.
- Dowels.
- Plastic corners and panels from the same material.
- Self-tapping screws of different sizes. Usually 6x40, 2x16, 2x80 are used.
- Solvents.
- Mix for plaster.
- Silicate glue.
Back to the table of contents
Dismantling the old window with your own hands
At the very initial stage of changing windows, it is necessary to dismantle the old window structure.
If windows have already been installed in the room, then before starting the installation of a new window, you need to get rid of the existing structure. If in the future you do not plan to install the old window anywhere, you can not try to be neat, but caution will not hurt. Do your best not to injure yourself or drop the window out. The last rule is especially true for apartments in multi-storey buildings, because the window can fall on someone or damage someone else's property. And in a private house, glass cleaning will not give you any pleasure.
First, remove the opening vents and sashes. Remove all glass from the structure, having previously removed the retaining glazing beads. Take a grinder with a circle on concrete or a hacksaw. Using the tool, make cuts along the horizontal and vertical elements of the window frame.
Using an improvised tool - a pry bar, a crowbar, a hammer will do - remove the product from the opening. In some cases, when the owner wants to keep the old window, the structure can be taken out without deformation and damage. But this will take much more time and certain skills.
At this stage, both the external ebb and the window sill are dismantled. In conclusion, the window opening is thoroughly cleaned of dust and all kinds of construction debris.
Back to the table of contents
Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic window
Gradually, you came to the main stage of work - installing a new window. This work requires careful and consistent implementation of a whole list of different activities.
First, the window is prepared for further installation. At this stage, you need to attach the mounting plates to the end of the top and side parts of the frame. In the future, it is thanks to them that the structure will be held in the required position. Quite often, installers replace plates with suspensions, which are usually used in the construction of various plasterboard structures. But when installing a plastic window, it is much more advisable to use plates. They are stronger than suspensions.
The slats must be securely fixed to the end of the frame. When installing, the fasteners will have to fit into the body of the metal profile of the block. And this should be done in such a way that the glass unit does not deform. Fasteners are made using self-tapping screws. Select the diameter of these products taking into account the size of the window. Standard-sized structures are usually installed using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm. For larger blocks (from 2x2 m), it is best to use larger self-tapping screws - 5-6 mm in diameter.
The fastening of the anchor strips to the end of the frame should be carried out so that they are installed with a step of 6-8 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corners of the product.
After that, you need to correctly expose the prepared window structure. On the surface, this procedure may seem pretty straightforward, but take it seriously. It is best to enlist the help of an assistant at this stage. One of you will support the block and the other will align it.
Place the unit in the opening and adjust its position using the pre-prepared wedges. It is important to place the block strictly vertically and horizontally. At this stage, follow the guidelines:
- Wedge the module not only from the bottom, but also from the sides.
- Make sure that all vertical frame members are in the same plane.
- If there is an impost, place wedges underneath as well.
Check that the unit is installed evenly using a spirit level. If there are even the slightest deviations, correct them. And only after that proceed to fixing the module. To do this, fix the anchor plates to the opening cavity using anchor bolts or dowels. It is important that the elements are attached strictly to the enclosing structures. To do this, it may be necessary to remove the plaster layer where the anchor plates are attached.
After you have securely anchored the module, seal the seams with foam designed specifically for the job. It is important that the material is intended specifically for the installation of plastic windows. Please read the instructions carefully and make sure that it can be used under the humidity and temperature of the installation site of the module.
Moisten the joint surface with water before applying the foam. If you need to fill an area wider than 3 cm, do it in 2 stages with a half-hour break.
Almost every novice craftsman wants to know how to install a plastic window yourself. The advantages of such windows include not only operational characteristics, but also ease of installation. These structures are equipped with fasteners and additional parts, so even a novice master will be able to install windows with his own hands. However, in order to do everything right, you should take into account the existing nuances. First of all, it is worth noting that it is very difficult to perform work alone, therefore it is recommended to involve an assistant.
Elements that will be needed in order to carry out the installation of plastic windows:
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- polyurethane foam;
- self-tapping screws;
- anchor;
- building level;
- plumb line;
- slopes;
- windowsill;
- ebb.
Before purchasing windows, you will need to make measurements of the opening, taking into account what the design is. It can be with or without a quarter. Openings with a quarter are characteristic of a building made of foam blocks. It is worth knowing that such designs significantly reduce heat loss.
In the opening without a quarter, it will be necessary to order windows, the length of which is 5 cm less than the length of the window opening. The width should be less than the corresponding indicator of the opening by 3 cm. Along the contour, 1.5 cm slots should be provided, which will need to be sealed with foam in the future. From the bottom, you will need to leave 3.5 cm for the windowsill.
Quarter and quarter windows
Windows must be ordered by adding 3 cm to the width. The length remains unchanged. Insulating tapes will need to be applied not to the plastic frame, but to the place of contact of the quarters with the PVC window. The frame should be pressed against the quarters.
In the opening without a quarter, external and internal slopes will be used as protective and decorative elements that can prevent the influence of external factors on the technical properties of the polyurethane foam.
It should be borne in mind that the larger the gap, the greater the consumption of expensive foam. If you want to save money, gaps larger than 4 cm can be partially filled with expanded polystyrene or bricks. Slots from 1 to 4 cm are blown out exclusively with foam.
In most cases, windows are placed not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer base by 1/3 inward.
However, those who wish to mount a window with their own hands can use options with an offset in the direction they need. This must be taken into account when buying a window sill and related accessories. Approximately 5 cm will need to be added to the width, which will be calculated based on the placement of the windows.
Existing methods of fixing the frame
The window installation technology will depend on the material from which the walls of the structure are erected, as well as on the dimensions of the windows. Based on these factors, you need to choose a method for fixing the elements.
You can fix the structures as follows:
- Fixing with dowels, which are inserted into the wall through the prepared holes in the profile.
- Plates with teeth, which will need to be pressed into the profile. The elements are not mounted in the wall, but are installed with a rasp and fixed with screws. When the installation is done, we foame the installation seams and install the slopes, under which it will be possible to hide the anchor plates. The space between the opening plane and the slope must be filled with foam. To reduce the consumption of foam, part of which will go for additional leveling, a recess can be made under the plate.
The first method is considered the most reliable. It is used in most cases for the installation of heavy window structures. If the fastening is through, the window will resist various shock loads that may arise, for example, when using windows with sashes that open in several directions. Anchors that pass through the frame will allow vertical and horizontal adjustment of the structure.
Fixing the frame during window installation
For people who are interested in the self-installation of small plastic windows with deaf double-glazed windows, the method of fixing with anchor plates is suitable.
It is recommended to prepare small recesses for the installation of plates in an opening made of concrete or brick so that you do not need to apply an extra layer for leveling before installing the slopes.
In some cases, wizards use both methods. The anchors are immersed in the walls through the side parts of the frame and the base of the structure, and the upper part is fixed with plates. Galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used instead of anchors.
Preparation of the window and opening
The opening must be cleaned of dust, debris and paint residues. If the installation of plastic windows will be carried out in the existing opening, then the top layer must be planed. The foam will have to adhere firmly to this layer.
The gaps between the frame and the opening can only be filled with foam.
To prepare a window, you need to do the following:
- We release the frame from the sash. To do this, you need to remove the pin, which is mounted in the upper hinge. Next, it must be carefully picked up at the bottom. The element must be lifted and removed from the lower hinge. Double-glazed windows must be removed from the blind windows. To do this, you will first need to remove the longitudinal, and then the transverse glazing beads. To remove the glazing beads, you need to insert a knife or spatula into the gap, and then slowly move. It is worth noting that a small window can be installed even without dismantling the sashes.
- The double-glazed window must be leaned against the wall at an angle, then placed on a flat base, which is covered with cardboard. It is not allowed to install the window flat, as cracks may appear due to the ingress of stones.
- Remove the protective film from the outer base of the frame. It will be much more difficult to do this in the future, so it is recommended to remove it at this stage.
- Finally, you need to place a place for mounting the fasteners. The recommended installation pitch for these devices is 40 cm. If you plan to use mounting plates, you will need to pre-attach them to the frame with self-tapping screws. Holes must be made for the anchor or self-tapping screws, while the drill should be placed on the outside of the frame.
Window structure after installation
The sequence of actions for installing windows
The frame will need to be inserted into the opening. First, you need to lay plastic corners or small bars around the perimeter. These elements will be needed to provide a technological gap. The blades need to be slightly moved in order to be able to clearly position the frame horizontally and vertically with the same slots. It is recommended to check the location with a building level. The blades should be placed close to the fixing point with screws or anchors.
Speaking about how to install plastic windows, it is worth knowing that installation can be done in several ways. Therefore, at this stage, there will be differences. The sequence of actions will be as follows:
- A self-tapping screw must be screwed into the opening of a wooden house through the recesses in the frame. In this case, you do not need to screw in the fasteners all the way.
- On the foam concrete or brick walls, through the recesses in the frame, points should be marked, then remove the frame, drill the holes with a drill that matches the material. Then we put the frame in place and install the fastener.
- You do not need to perform any complicated steps when installing on the anchor plates. They will need to be bent so that they adjoin the place that is intended for their attachment.
- The final fixation is carried out after checking the contours and verticals with a plumb line. It is not necessary to tighten the elements strongly, as the frame can bend. The screwing must be completed when the cap is flush with the frame.
- Parts that have been removed will need to be returned to their place in the reverse order, and then check the functionality of the product.
- The cracks must be filled with construction foam. Seams are closed with protective tape. From the outside, the insulation tape must be drowned.
- The foam should be used to fill the gap under the drain.
- At the next stage, the window sill is mounted. A few centimeters of plastic construction will need to be brought under the sweet clover.
7 minutes to read.
More recently, only wooden window frames were used in the glazing of residential buildings and industrial buildings. Today, many consider them to be relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern metal-plastic structures. Indeed, in addition to high performance, they are much cheaper than wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you do not need to have superpowers. Almost anyone who can handle a tool can handle such a task.
However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, a loose fit and high street air throughput into the apartment.
To avoid the above points, in this article we will provide step-by-step instructions that will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you do decide to trust the professionals, be aware that some of them are not really like that, and for a number of reasons, they openly neglect certain stages of proper installation (some save time, others - money). Having an idea of the work being carried out, you can easily exercise independent control over the entire process. And later you will enjoy high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.
The main stages of installing new windows:
- taking measurements;
- dismantling of old windows;
- preparation of openings;
- installation of a metal-plastic structure.
Not everyone knows that the manufacturer does not give absolutely any guarantee for their services in the case of installing windows on their own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, do not rely on a refund or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are made strictly according to the previously agreed dimensions. In case of your mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or turn out to be much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The company's employees are solely responsible for the implementation of each stage of the installation of the product.
Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all the advantages of a modern design and the expected level of comfort.
Measurements of windows
Carrying out the necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with a quarter and without. Accordingly, they have different formulas for calculating sizes. 
For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the obtained figures - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check that the largest distance between vertical quarters should not exceed the calculated block width.
Read also: "Karcher" for cleaning windows: features of use and advantages
The height is determined by measuring between the upper quarter and the lower surface of the window opening.
If the window opening is without a quarter, the desired values can be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical dimension (to put the window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal one.
When determining the size of the window sill and low tide, it is worth considering the following details:
- Often the size of the window sill is chosen based on its functionality. It should cover the heating batteries and house flowers should be placed on it;
- Along the length of the window sill, they take the window opening that is 8-10 cm higher, its edges should be drowned in the slope cavity by about 4-5 cm;
- The dimensions of the low tide are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.
Features of measurements of balcony windows
When calculating the width of the balcony windows, the length of the parapet is taken as a basis, it is on it that the entire structure will lean. Also, on both sides, it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for the installation of the corner profile, with the help of it the window blocks of the front and side parts are connected. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of a difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for the clearances for fastening, will be the height.
With regard to the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width for the installation of the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.
Features of measurements of windows in private houses and buildings of the old fund
When measuring windows in private houses and buildings of the old fund, it is recommended to first beat off part of the slopes on both sides (at the measurement sites). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is. It often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various insulation materials that can crumble in the process of disassembling the existing window. On the positive side, the new plastic structure can be slightly enlarged by expanding the cleaned window opening. 
Ordering a metal-plastic window
Before contacting a company with an order, you should think about what type of glass unit is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chambered. As for the fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.
With the technical characteristics of plastic windows, which will be preferable for your home, the consultants of the manufacturer's company will help you figure it out at the time of ordering.
Some important points during installation
When installing windows on your own, you should pay attention to the following:
- the metal-plastic structure must be well fixed;
- the mounting foam, with which the windows were fixed, must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent its subsidence and deformation of the frame in the future);
- it is very important to align the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help to avoid skewing).
How to install plastic windows with your own hands
Before starting the installation, prepare everything you need for work:
- Window frame with fasteners;
- Building level;
- Polyurethane foam;
- A pry bar;
- Grinder;
- Windowsill.
Window block preparation process
The preparation of the window is an important step in the installation work that you carry out with your own hands. If necessary, the double-glazed windows and hinged sashes themselves are dismantled from the window structure. To release the glass unit, a chisel is used, it is very carefully necessary to pry out the glazing bead (fastener) with it, and after a light blow on the tool, it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The freed glazing beads will need to be marked, sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The double-glazed window will come out of the grooves on its own if the frame is tilted slightly. Lean it gently against the wall, creating a small angle.