How to install a window sill on plastic windows. Installing a window sill on plastic windows How to insert plastic windows with a window sill

You may well purchase a window sill separately from a plastic window, because, for example, it may break, or you first wanted to keep the old wooden window sill, but then changed your mind. We will tell you how to install a plastic window sill with your own hands.

Choosing the Right

If you opted for a PVC window sill, most likely, all its positive and negative sides were evaluated. The pros are:

Durability. The plastic itself has a very long service life. It is not affected by water or other corrosive non-aggressive liquids.
Relative ease of installation. Compared to products made from other materials, there is less risk of doing something wrong during installation.
Acceptable cost. Wooden window sills made of artificial or natural stone have a cost that is much higher.
Light weight.
Ease of processing.
Additional thermal insulation.
Ease of cleaning. Almost any non-abrasive detergent is suitable.

Here are some cons:

Instability to high temperatures (in most cases).
Impossibility of recovery after damage. If wooden, for example, can be puttied, cleaned and painted, then such a number will not work here.
If the surface of the product is rough, dirt will accumulate there over time, which is not so easy to wash.

Window sills can be purchased together with installed windows, and after. Their installation is carried out both on the balcony and in a wooden house. In doing so, you should pay attention to:

Tool

In order for the installation to go like clockwork, we need the following tools:

hammer;
roulette;
level or laser level;
building corner;
polyurethane foam and gun;
Bulgarian;
chisel;
plastic linings or other material;
acrylic or silicone sealant;
side plugs.

Foam can be with different degree of expansion. Choose it according to your needs. But it’s better not to take one that will not expand at all, because. it will not be able to compensate for some gaps, and they may remain after installation.

This step may take the most time, but it is actually the most important in the whole process.

Let's see how the window is installed. It is important to assess whether there are any deviations from the horizontal plane. To do this, we apply a level or start a projection from a laser level along the lower edge of the frame. In the future, the window sill will be set exactly on it, which can also lead to skew. If there are small deviations, then this is not a problem, it will be further described how they can be compensated.

We measure the width of the window opening. It is important to remember that the plane of the stand should be recessed into the slopes by 1 cm from each end, and the protruding part on the sides should go beyond the opening by 3 cm or more.

We make grooves in the slopes, where the ends of the window sill will go. The edge of the frame will serve as a guide in this regard. Pay attention to the edge of the stand on which the window stands, namely the lower edge of the frame.

In order to do everything right, you can use several methods. Using a laser plane builder, a horizontal line is projected onto the opening. From this line along the window, a measurement is made to the edge, the value is fixed. Further, the same distance is laid off from the same line, but already on the slope. If there is no level, then you can use a water or ordinary level, which is placed close to the bottom line of the frame, aligned in a horizontal plane with a bubble indicator and a mark is made.

A straight line is applied that will connect our mark and the edge of the frame.

Most likely, there is a metal corner at the corners of the slopes. In no case should you try to knock it down with a chisel and a hammer, as you can damage it completely. For this, it is better to use a grinder. Two small transverse cuts are simply made to its width. An incision is also made along the applied line.

With the help of a chisel or other suitable tool and a hammer, recesses of 1.5–2 cm are knocked out.

Next, you need to evaluate the surface on which the installation will be carried out. Attention must be paid not only to how uneven it is, but also to how far it is from the bottom of the window. Ideally, it should not exceed 4 cm. This is due to the fact that it is at this thickness that the foam polymerizes in the best way, which makes it sufficiently dense and durable. If the layer size is large, then voids may form inside, which reduces the bearing capacity, and can also cause drafts.

In the event that the size exceeds 4 cm, it is necessary to reduce the gap. This can be done with the help of improvised means. For example, you can build a small formwork from the rule and pour the solution. In this case, it will be easier to bring the required level. If the installation is carried out at a time when there are still remains of a brick or foam block from the walls inside the room, then the base can be laid out of them, and all the cracks can be sealed with mortar or glue. After that, you need to give at least a day for everything to stand and grab.

In the event that the level of the base will rise with the help of a foam block, it must be soaked in water for a short time. Due to its porosity, it absorbs moisture well, and if it takes too much from the solution on which it will be placed, there will be no setting. Wetting saturates the foam block with moisture, so setting will occur as well as possible.

Installation work

The first step is cleaning. It is better to produce it with a construction vacuum cleaner, because brushes and brushes are not able to remove all the dust.

Moisture is necessary for good adhesion of the foam to other materials. Therefore, it is recommended to moisten the surface with water. But you can go further and kill two birds with one stone. You need to use not water, but a primer. In this way, it will be possible to remove residual dust, as well as provide the necessary moisture. You can apply it with a brush, but it is more convenient to do this with a manual sprayer. If you use the latter, then cover the windows with something or wipe them immediately. If the impregnation is allowed to dry, then then it will have to be removed with consequences.

The window sill is being marked. Its total width will be the width of the opening plus 10 cm (this overlap is necessary to provide 5 cm for each "ear"). The depth will be equal to the distance from the window stand to the middle of the heater, if it is under the window. Better not to close it completely. If you do this, then warm air will not flow to the windows, and they will fog up, which will lead to condensation and the growth of mold and mildew. If there is no battery and radiator, then the flight can be carried out by 5 cm. In some cases, at the request of the customer, an even larger protrusion is made. Perhaps the space will be used as an extension of the desktop or something else. In this case, it is necessary to install metal corners as supports. Their base is recessed into the plaster. The length of the window sill is adjusted taking into account the fact that the edges will be recessed into the wall by 1 cm.

Using a hacksaw for metal or an electric jigsaw, trimming is carried out.

Next, you need to prepare the supports on which the plane will lie. Special plastic plates are often used, but they may not provide the necessary rigidity. Instead, you can use parts of the trimmed window sill. They should be placed every 40–50 cm. They are set using a building level or using a level (when using the latter, a line is projected and measurements are made from it at both ends to the supports, the distance should be the same). Their height should be such that the window sill butt went under the lower part of the frame and rested against the installation bar. In order not to move them in the process, you can fix them with self-tapping screws. If the platform is from a gas block, then you can simply screw it through with self-tapping screws, in the case of a brick, you will have to use a puncher and dowels.

You can go the other way and install the supports not across, but along the windowsill. They can be made from plaster beacons. In this case, there will be more emphasis, which will definitely eliminate deflections and creases.

With the help of a gun and mounting foam, gaps are sealed, which may be under the window. Pay special attention to the corners. There are times when everything is installed beautifully, and a draft blows from below, which is an indicator of inattention.

Plugs are mounted on the window sill, and it is tried on in its place. If there are no gaps between it and the window, then installation can be continued. In the case when the gap is large enough, it is necessary to raise the supports; at its minimum values, it can be expected that the foam compensates for the gap. Until the repair is completed, the film does not need to be removed, it will be enough to lift it in those places that will hide in the wall and under the window.

If the supports were mounted lengthwise, then the main layer of foam must be applied before the window sill is installed in its place. If across, then blowing can be done in several stages. Before installation - the part that is closer to the window. Then walk along the middle line, and then along the edge.

For a day, the plane must be pressed down with a load. To do this, you can use books, eggplants with water, dumbbells (but it is advisable to make a lining of durable material under them), etc.

After polymerization and drying of the foam, its excess is cut off. Moreover, under the windowsill, it must be cut flush by about 1 cm, so that you can safely putty this space and the applied material has a sufficient layer.

If there is a twist

The output will be a little trick of the installation. Most often, this remains invisible to others, especially if the width of the product is more than 25 cm. For this, we need self-tapping screws or some other material with which we can make adjustable beacons. They are mounted in two lines. The first should be located almost right next to the window, and its level should exactly repeat the slope of the window. The second is installed closer to the edge. It must be leveled exactly to the level using a special tool. After installation, the far part of the window sill will fit snugly against the window frame, and the near one will be accurately leveled. This will deceive the eye and create the visual effect of correct placement.

Installation of the window sill can be combined with the installation of plastic pads on the corners near the window. Never rush through the process, especially when laying out. We are interested to know what nuances you noticed personally for yourself. Share your observations in the comments.

Video

Watch the video instruction from a professional to install a PVC window sill. All the nuances are clear:

How to take the dimensions of the window sill, how to cut off the PVC window sill? Competent, step-by-step installation of a window sill. Read in this article.

The classic installation of a PVC window sill is the installation of a window sill, which includes the main operations performed in most cases. Of course, there are always exceptions, which we will also talk about, such as VIP installation!

Window sills for plastic windows

On plastic windows, PVC window sills are most often installed. Wooden window sills are mounted less often. And very rarely, they put stone window sills. The latter have their own installation specifics. We will not talk about them in this article.

How to install a wooden window sill on plastic windows? The technology for installing plastic and wooden window sills is not fundamentally different. Therefore, further, we will focus only on the methods of installing PVC window sills.

For those who first decided to install a window sill with their own hands, it is important to know that the quality of the window sill plastic affects the installation process. If you intend to work with an economy class window sill (for example, from the ECO company), then you need to treat it with care. For example, when cutting such a window sill with a jigsaw, large chips may appear.

Where can I buy a PVC window sill in St. Petersburg at an affordable price? - Below, for comparison, I give approximate window sill prices for plastic windows, having dimensions of 250 x 2000 mm:

Inexpensive and low quality - "Eco" - 350 rubles.
Inexpensive, but high quality - "Stained Glass" - 450 rubles.
Expensive and high quality - "Stained Glass VPL" - 1250 rubles.
Very expensive and very high quality - "Danke", "Moeller", each - 2200 rubles.

PVC window sill marking

Following the turnkey plastic window installation technology, the plastic window sill should be installed after the plastic window has already been installed. In the previous article, I already talked about the fact that the tide with the window sill are installed at the same time.

In order to understand how to install a window sill on plastic windows, you need to understand for yourself that the most important operation in this process is the marking of the PVC window sill. Further, step-by-step verified instructions with a photo, and my video is at the end of the article.

First, take a piece of paper and a pencil. We draw a window in a section in width, in a simple way, in the form of an elongated rectangle. View from above. And we enter the value of the window width in our rectangle.

Secondly, we find the starting point of the markup. This is done in the following way. We remove the size of the window sill in length. We write the value above the rectangle. We get two numerical values in a column that need to be subtracted. As in school, in the first grade))).

The resulting difference is divided in half. And we get the main figure, which is determined by the starting point for marking the PVC window sill. This figure is equal to the distance from the edge of the window sill to the edge of the frame on each side.

Thus, after installing the window sill and slopes, we will have the same:

The side protrusions of the window sill - "ears" and
Slope angles

Thirdly, continuing the markup, we take two locksmith squares (90 degrees) with a scale of 30 cm and 50 cm. gap. The main thing to understand is that the position of the square is the future position of the cut-off window sill. It remains only to take the first dimension along the length of the window sill, and write down this dimension on our sheet of paper, on which the starting point for measuring has already been determined.

Fourthly, with the help of the second square, pressing it against the inner wall of the room, we fix the second size along the width of the window sill. After that, the last cutting line of the side protrusion is automatically obtained.

Similarly, dimensions are taken on the right side of the window sill.

After that, the markup is applied to the window sill itself.

This markup we've looked at is the simplest. It is made in a flat perpendicular opening.

It happens that the opening has a step configuration, then it is necessary to take several measurements. But, the principle of markup does not change.

Fifthly, if the opening has an angle, then the marking of the PVC window sill is carried out at an angle. To do this, as in the first case, we press a large square with one side against the window sill profile, and direct the other perpendicular side at an angle. Imagine that this will be the angular cut line. And we attach the second square to the inner wall of the room. The intersection point of the gons is the end point. We fix its value. Further, leaving the second small square in a fixed position, we again attach the large square to the window sill profile at 90 degrees. We fix the second value at the intersection of the squares.

Thus, the marking of the PVC window sill is done. It must also be said that the cutting line of the side protrusion can be either flush with the inner wall of the room, or recessed into this wall. It depends on whether the customer will make repairs after installing the window.

How to cut a PVC window sill?

After marking, the PVC window sill must be cut off. For this you can use four tools:

1. Hacksaw for metal. Yes, the cheapest tool, but it requires good physical preparation.

2. Electric jigsaw. The most acceptable option. You can use inexpensive. For example, I have recently been using Interskol. Such a jigsaw costs from 1700 to 2500 rubles.

The main thing when working with a jigsaw is to set the pendulum stroke to the number "0" and use a metal file with a fine tooth.

3. Bulgarian ("UShM" - angle grinder). The most efficient tool. Allows you to cut the PVC window sill most accurately. But, at the same time, the grinder is very noisy and creates a lot of dust.

4. Cordless saw "Makita HS300DWE" and "Bosch GKS 10.8 V-LI". Lightweight, handy, cordless tool, but very expensive. The cost of such a saw is about 10,000 rubles.

By the way, we do not throw away trimmings from the window sill. They will come in handy during installation. Read about it below.

We've made the markup. Cut off the window sill. Now we will learn how to install it. Before that, we need to prepare some materials:

Well, some tools:

Construction knife
Hammer
Locksmith corner 90 degrees (also used for marking, see above)
Level 40 and 60 cm
Gun for polyurethane foam with a cylinder
Sprayer with water
Cargo in the form of improvised means

The most important thing in installing a window sill- these are its reference points, or rather their number. Classic installation is done by most window installers and consists of minimizing these support elements. In this case, the window sill will look quite durable. You can stand on it and you can walk on it. In this case, a slight deflection is possible. As they say, price - quality.

The gap between the window sill and its base in the classical method does not matter. There are many tricks and subtleties that allow you to achieve a certain strength of the window sill with a large gap, for example, from 5 to 15 cm. It is clear that a client who has paid a fairly low price for classic window installation has no idea that competent and correct installation has a completely different price. And having recognized it, he would begin to doubt, and would run away to another company, where they would offer him the initial price, driving over the ears. And the end result would most likely be the same.

This revelation is necessary so that a client who wants really super quality must understand that a lot of money will have to be paid for this quality. But this is not enough. Still, you need to thoroughly study the process for which he pays. For example, the process we are talking about in this article is how to install a window sill on plastic windows? Otherwise, it's just swindled. So there are two options:

Classic PVC window sill installation
VIP PVC window sill installation

I consider myself not in the right to condemn the first installation method, since it has the right to life, if only because we live in Russia. And in our country there is such a thing as Russian reality. But, even this installation method must be competent and verified.

Classic PVC window sill installation

So, we have an already installed window and a PVC window sill cut to size. As I said above, we need to create anchor points in two, three rows parallel to the window. The first row runs directly along the window. The second row runs along the edge of the inner wall. The third row is the middle one and is necessary in case of a window sill width of more than 400 mm.

In the classical method, the optimal number of support points in each row is calculated as follows:

Single sash window (width 1000 - 1200 mm) - two supports
Double-leaf window (width 1400 - 1600 mm) - three supports
Three-leaf window (width 1700 - 2700) - four, five supports, depending on the width of the window

Further, the support in a classic PVC window sill installation is usually made of wood. And these wooden linings, the installers are sawing out of old, dismantled, wooden windows, which is not so scary. After all, the tree is dry.

First, we expose the first row. To do this, take the largest trim from the windowsill. With it, we select the height of the support so that the window sill is pressed tightly against the window frame.

Also, instead of wooden linings, you can use brackets to press the window sill to the window frame, costing 8 rubles apiece. Expensive, but installation speed increases and simplifies. The number of brackets is the same as the number of supports. The disadvantage is that the bracket serves only as a temporary support for the window sill. Under the weight of a person, the bracket bends slightly, unlike wooden linings. To avoid this, after foaming the window sill (foaming occurs at the very end), you need to wait for the foam to dry completely, about one hour, before standing on the window sill.

When the first support row is set, you can proceed to the second - the extreme row. It is also installed using the same trim from the window sill, and using a level or square. I prefer a square, and set the sill at 90 degrees relative to the window frame at each anchor point. After all, I know what is mine. In this case, the subsequent installation of the slope is facilitated. There is practically no gap between the slope and the window sill. And the slope does not need to be cut at an angle (extra work). And the horizontal level of the window sill does not need to be checked. It will be the same as the window level.

Here, let's make a small digression. The question arises. How to install a window sill on plastic windows? Strictly in a horizontal level or at an angle of 2 - 3 degrees (with a slight inclination into the room)? Why is it so strongly recommended to do this slope. Whichever site you go to, everywhere the angle of inclination of 2-3 degrees is required and that's it.

So, the slope is needed to drain water into the room, which appears on the windowsill from slanting rain, from condensate if the window is installed incorrectly, from excessive watering of flowers, from washing windows.

Now, imagine where the water will go when the window sill is installed horizontally. Firstly, the amount of water on the windowsill under any circumstances is minimal. I personally have not heard of floods on window sills. Secondly, the seam of the junction of the window sill and the window frame is always sealed. Thirdly, in order for the water to quickly leave the windowsill, a much greater slope is needed, and with a slight slope, water will still accumulate on the windowsill.

Yes, the installation of a window sill with a reverse angle is unacceptable, then the possibility of water accumulation is really created. But, again, do not forget about the sealant. In short, the window sill should be flat.

I believe that when watering a pot of flowers that is on the windowsill and accidentally spills water, it should spill on your windowsill evenly in different directions, and not pour onto the floor. Also, I believe that, for example, a writing pen should not roll off the windowsill, as well as any round object. Especially when you consider the fact that some wide window sills are used as tables.

Well, in general, this is my opinion about the slope of the window sill. We go further. If a third is required - the middle row, it is done very simply. In the middle of trimming the window sill, linings are selected in height.

Since, in my example, a double-leaf window, I use three supports in each row. Accordingly, we expose them in the same way.

After all the supports are selected, you can take our pre-cut window sill (see above), and insert it under the window frame for fitting. At the same time, once again checking the perpendicularity of the installation with a square. Next, remove the window sill, spray the first row along the frame and all the anchor points with a sprayer. And we begin the stage of foaming.

We apply a strip of foam along the first row of anchor points along the window frame, so that half of the window sill profile is covered with foam.

If there is an average reference row, then it is necessary to foam it not completely, but only the reference points. The second, extreme row foams at the end. Next, insert the window sill so that the right and left marking points coincide with the edges of the window frame.

We measure the value of the protrusions in width. If necessary, we correct these values by slightly pushing or deepening the window sill on each side. We make a control measurement with a square or a level in the plane of inclination. After that, it remains to foam the second support row completely. Tip, if this gap is more than 5 cm, you need to foam in two layers. Pass the first layer 2, 3 cm. Wait until it dries (20 - 30 minutes). Then, foam the second layer to the end. Also, do not forget to foam the gaps in the places where the window sill is cut, and do not forget to put a load weighing from 1 kg to 10 kg, depending on the width of the gap. Since I have a gap of about 2 cm, then such a load is enough, as in the picture (tray with a tool).

And here is what should happen after installing the slopes. Despite the fact that when marking, the protrusions, the so-called ears, were different, now, as you can see in the photo, these protrusions are the same. At the same time, the angles of dawn of the slopes are the same.

This is the classic window sill installation that professionals do. But such an installation can be done by anyone with their own hands.

VIP PVC window sill installation

The most important principle, the VIP installation of a PVC window sill, is that the size of the gap between the base of the site and the window sill should be 10 - 20 mm. Accordingly, if in the classical setting, this distance is not filled with anything. That is, voids remain, because the installers have neither the time nor the money that the client does not want to part with. This is a VIP installation, which means filling this space with cement mortar.

One more digression or advice. Very often, this filling method is used for large-scale repairs. But, builders - finishers, understanding little in the window business, pour the screed under the window sill into a tight frame or window sill profile. And it also happens that the foam is picked out right under the window sill profile. So, you can't do that. The screed should not reach the window block by about 5 cm. There should be foam.

Further, why don't window installers make such a screed? That's right, you have to wait until it dries. And for the money that they work, waiting is not profitable. In addition, you need to buy a solution. Some masters install the window sill directly on the screed. So faster.

But, if we talk about the highest level of installation - VIP, then, as I said above, you need to fill in the screed with a gap of 10 - 20 mm, wait until it rises. Then, foam the pad evenly with a snake. Foam layer about 30 mm. Gently place the window sill on this layer without shifting. Align with a level or square and press down with a light weight. The supports with this method of installation are, of course, plastic. And they are exhibited only on the second extreme row. In all other places, the window sill will have sufficient rigidity. This is achieved due to a small gap, which is filled with mounting foam in the form of a snake.

After the foam has completely dried, its remains under the window sill are cut off and the seam under the window sill is sealed. This operation is done both on the VIP installation and on the classic PVC window sill installation.

Note! Installing a plastic threshold on a balcony has its own technology. The classic setting for the threshold is not suitable. Read about it

I hope that the reader of my blog will understand not only the principle of DIY installation, but also the principle of approach from a professional point of view. Payment for the services of a PVC window installer must correspond to his work done !!! And, of course, my video.

PhD, site expert.

When installing plastic windows, installers regularly encounter a situation where customers do not know what a window sill is for - they perceive it as a standard element of a window structure. In fact, the window sill has many functions, depending on which the material for the window sill is selected. Let's fill the gap in knowledge and talk about the functionality of the window sill, its types, advantages and disadvantages of the material from which it is made, as well as how the window sill is installed on plastic windows with your own hands.

Initially, the window sill had four functions:

prevent the entry of cold air into the room in the area of the connection of the window structure with the base of the window opening;
level the difference between the bottom of the window opening and the frame that is installed on the gaskets;
collect condensate when window panes are fogged;
close the visible part of the wall in the opening.

Over time, the role of the window sill expanded. He became:

decorative element in the interior of the room;
stand for flowers and various figurines;
a table in the kitchen, a desk or a work table in the nursery, living room, bedroom;

support when washing windows and hanging curtains;
business card of the wealth of the owners;
a place to watch the street and relax.

Based on how the owners see their window sill, the material from which it is made is selected.

Types of window sill

The construction industry offers the basis for a window sill from:

natural (granite, marble) and artificial (based on acrylic or quartz) stone;
natural wood (oak, cherry, pine, larch);
composite materials (MDF, chipboard);
plastic (polyvinyl chloride).

A natural stone

A window sill made of natural stone is one of the few interior elements that very clearly demonstrates the wealth in the house, the status and good taste of the owners. Him:

beautiful, respectable appearance, which is maintained until the end of operation;
a variety of colors and patterns, which allows you to fit it into any interior;
the highest strength - granite and marble, one of the best in this indicator on the planet among minerals (second only to diamond);

there is no reaction to external influences in the form of temperature changes (does not burn and is not afraid of frost), high humidity, ultraviolet irradiation (does not fade in the sun);
has an unlimited service life - in old castles you can find stone window sills with a service life of several centuries;
easy to wash.

Natural stone also has disadvantages:

on a surface polished to a mirror finish, despite its high strength, it is quite easy to leave scratches with a sharp object (granite is more resistant to sharp objects);
marble is afraid of vinegar and acid (this mineral is essentially limestone). Tea and coffee stains are poorly washed on it;
both minerals accumulate radioactive radiation - it is better to refuse them in areas contaminated with radiation;
high level of thermal conductivity (granite - 3.5 W / (m x hail), marble - 2.9);
limited dimensions (a large slab is difficult to polish, transport and install);
in case of accidental damage (chip, crack), cannot be restored;
a lot of weight - in most cases, the window sill is served by a crane through the window;
a limited number of color palettes for granite (in fairness, we note that the natural pattern of the material is fantastic);
high cost of the product.

Fake diamond

An alternative to a marble or granite window sill is an artificial stone made on the basis of acrylic or quartz agglomerate. The product has a lot of advantages:

light weight - easier to transport and secure;
there are no restrictions in size - thickness and width;
high strength - higher than that of PVC and wood window sills, but lower than that of natural stone;
long operational resource;
with the addition of various components to the mixture, you can get unique colors and patterns that mimic various natural materials;
not afraid of moisture, easily cleaned of dirt, does not absorb odors;
warm to the touch, like natural wood;
can be restored with glue, heat treatment and grinding.

The disadvantages of artificial stone are related to its nature:

afraid of high temperature - traces of cigarettes and hot dishes remain on the surface;
is destroyed when interacting with aggressive chemicals;
easily scratched and abraded (afraid of abrasive materials), which is clearly visible on polished plain surfaces, especially on black, chocolate and dark gray backgrounds;
high cost, in some cases exceeding the cost of natural stone.

For information: the above damages are easily removed by specialists on site, without dismantling the window sill. But it costs money.

Tree

Like granite and marble, wood is a natural material and has the same centuries-old history of use in window construction. With the advent of artificial materials on the construction industry market, the position of wooden window sills fell sharply, but still retained their fans and connoisseurs.

Wooden window sills have their pros and cons.

ecological purity of natural material;
durability during operation - they do not break like natural stone, they are not afraid of hot objects like plastic or acrylic board;
high level of thermal insulation;
beautiful color and original texture: the surface can be made glossy for modern interior design styles, or give the look of old wood - under the country;
high strength - withstand the weight of a person and flower pots;
natural warmth both in direct contact and visual inspection.

afraid of direct contact with water and wet rooms - the surface swollen with water is deformed, so such a window sill must be either painted or varnished;
constant care is needed: first of all, regular and timely repainting;
does not tolerate close contact with central heating batteries (deforms) - if there is not enough distance from a constant heat source to the window frame, it is better to refuse a wooden window sill.

On the price factor, experts do not have a consensus: some consider it a plus because of the democratic price, others consider it a minus, because, on the contrary, the very high cost of wooden window sills. Here, oddly enough, both sides are right. A pine window sill does not differ much from plastic in cost, oak board costs about the same as natural stone.

Composite materials

Composites are called upon to replace natural wood - chipboard and MDF. However, alternative window sills lose a lot not only to wooden ones, which they are intended to replace, but also to all other types of window sills. The main problem is their property to swell when in contact with water.

The protection of chipboard with a waterproof film is not very reliable. The film is easily damaged by sharp objects and is afraid of high temperatures. In this regard, laminated MDF is a more reliable material, but it also costs more.

PVC

A plastic window sill is a hollow panel with a thickness of at least 2.0 cm from two thin sheets (the top one is at least 3 mm thick, the bottom one is at least 2.5 mm), interconnected by stiffeners. The more ribs or thicker sheets, the stronger the product.

Installing a plastic window sill allows you to:

save finances - its price is lower than the cost of natural and artificial stone, as well as wood;

synchronize the service life of the window sill with a plastic window;
get a window element of various design that fits into any interior, including wood or natural stone;
ensure good thermal insulation between the frame and the lower base of the window opening;
do all installation work yourself.

Among the disadvantages of PVC window sills, it should be noted:

fear of high temperatures - there are traces of cigarettes and hot pots;
low strength.

With proper operation, these shortcomings, as a rule, do not appear.

Note that all types of window sills can be installed independently. Using the example of how to install a plastic window sill with your own hands, we will consider the general principle of organizing work and describe the entire technology step by step, noting at the end the nuances of attaching this window element from other materials.

Materials and tools

The effectiveness of the construction process depends on the correct selection of materials and the necessary tools. To install a window sill in one window, you will need:

window sill material;
polyurethane foam - poured between the window sill and the wall of the house;
silicone-based plastic sealant - the joints between the window sill, the window frame and the slope panel are sealed;
perforated metal strip and self-tapping screws, if additional fixing of the window sill is planned;
putty for sealing grooves in the wall;
plugs for the ends of the window sill;
wedges made of wood or plastic under the window sill (3 pieces per window).

Of the tools needed:

roulette;
putty knife;
mallet or rubber mallet;
perforator for making a groove in the wall under the window sill;
one of the following plastic profile cutting tools. These can be: grinder - cuts quickly, accurately, with smooth edges along the cut line; electric jigsaw with a metal saw as a cutting tool; a hacksaw for metal - almost every home has it;
building level;
foam gun;
builder's pencil or marker;
screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
construction (stationery) knife with a retractable blade;
clean rags.

Preparatory work

Before installing the window sill, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work:

take measurements of the window opening to determine the size of the window sill;
select the window sill panel;
make grooves in the wall;
clean the base of the window opening from debris;
cut the window sill to size.

window opening measurements

The quality of the installed window sill is determined by several parameters. Among them, an important place is occupied by the accuracy of the measurements taken and the calculation on their basis of the size of the window sill. In the case of a plastic plate, bringing the window sill to size is given at home.

Other types of window sill are ordered ready-made. Therefore, errors in calculations, if they are made in a smaller direction, are not subject to correction. For larger sizes, you will have to increase the grooves and install brackets for additional support for the window sill.

The measurement is carried out in the following order:

1. The distance from the frame to the edge of the wall is measured on both sides of the window, i.e. measure the depth of the window opening. To determine the actual width of the window sill, 2 cm is added to the result obtained to go under the window structure and 4-6 cm to go outside the wall into the room.

On many sites you can find a recommendation to let out 10 cm outside the wall. Only the aesthetic perception of the window sill is taken into account here. In technological terms, a large protrusion prevents warm air flows from heating radiators from spreading around the room (the air convention is violated);

2. The distance between the walls next to the window is measured (in Fig. line B), and then the length of the edge of the wall at the base of the window opening, if the slopes are not made at a right angle (in Fig. line C). To the results obtained, 2-3 cm are added on each side, for the window sill to enter the grooves on the wall (stone and wood are hidden in the slopes by 1.5-2 cm). In addition, 3-5 cm are added to the eyes.

Window sill panel selected

The plastic window sill has standard sizes:

length 6 m;
width from 20 cm to 100 cm, in increments of 5 cm to a width of 60 cm and 10 cm further.

Therefore, the choice of the required size is not difficult - you can always cut off the excess. More difficulties arise when choosing a specific plastic model. Here you need to follow the advice of experts.

Buy a window sill board with an allowance for size.
Do not save on material - cheap plastic has low strength (brittle) and fades in the sun.
Take a PVC panel of the same color as the window, unless there is an interior design solution where the window sill can be under natural materials.
The stiffeners should not be located vertically, but at an angle, in the form of saw teeth - the panel has higher strength.
White color is less noticeable scratches and scuffs.
The distance between the stiffeners must not exceed 35 mm.
Examine the certificate. It is necessary to pay attention to the percentage of polyvinyl chloride (the norm is about 60%) and chalk - no more than 5%.

Grooves are knocked out

The window sill board should go 2-3 cm inside the slope. To do this, at the level of the base of the window opening in the wall, a groove measuring 50x50 mm is knocked out with a perforator. If there is no such tool at hand, you can select a recess in a brick with a hammer and chisel.

If the slope is concrete, a grinder with a special cutting wheel makes 2-3 cuts in the place where the groove will be. In order not to accidentally damage the frame, a spatula is pressed close to it. It is easier to knock out cut concrete than monolithic.

Preparing the base of the wall

The mounting foam must come into contact directly with the wall material. Therefore, the base of the opening is cleared of construction debris and foam that has come out excessively when foaming the space between the frame and the walls. The foam is also cut out from under the lower window profile to a depth of 2-3 cm to partially pinch the window sill leaf by the window structure.

If the distance between the lower plane of the installed window sill and the base of the wall is less than 1 cm, a recess up to 70 mm wide and 20-30 mm deep is cut in the wall to form a foam joint, on which the plastic panel will lie.

Preparing the plastic panel

The plastic window sill is sold in a rectangular shape. You need to insert a panel in the form of the letter "T" with a wide leg (often placed in the form of a rectangle or trapezoid). Therefore, the dimensions of the real window sill are transferred to the plastic and the cut lines are drawn with a construction pencil. The necessary shape is cut along the lines.

Important: when installing windows, they often shift along the vertical axis, when the distance from the edge of the wall to the frame is different on different slopes. In these cases, the back side of the panel is cut obliquely so that the parallel between the wall and the ledge of the window sill is observed.

Window sill installation

Instructions on how to properly install a window sill on plastic windows, simple and easy to understand for beginners in the construction business. Let's analyze all the operations step by step.

Step 1. A protective film is removed from the underside of the window sill, as well as from the sides at a distance of 3-4 cm.

Step 2 The window sill is being tried on - it is inserted into the place of permanent fixation. If an undercut section is found, the inaccuracy is corrected.

Step 3 A vapor barrier tape is attached under the frame.

Step 4 Wedges (bars) purchased in advance are installed. There are several important points to consider here:

The minimum width of the bars is 5.0 cm;
The length of the wedge should be less than the width of the panel, but not more than 10.0 cm, while the bar should not protrude beyond the wall;
The ideal distance between the bars is 40.0-50.0 cm. This rule does not apply to narrow window openings of Soviet-built houses - at least three bars must be placed on one window under the windowsill;
Under the wedges, the wall surface is leveled either with a plaster mortar or putty;
With the help of a level, all supports are brought into one plane. In addition, the length of the bar is aligned horizontally.

Step 5 A protective film is removed from the surface of the plastic from the side of the window to a width of 3-4 cm. Plugs are placed at the ends.

Step 6 The last, control fitting is carried out, during which the following tasks are solved:

a snug fit of the window sill panel to the frame is ensured - if necessary, the bars are additionally regulated;
the slope of the window sill towards the room is ensured by 2-3 mm for every 20 cm of the width of the window sill - necessary for the condensate stack.

Step 7 A mounting seam is foamed at the base of the opening.

Step 8 After the foam reaches the state of “dry to the touch”, a window sill is placed. With a rubber mallet, he sits in a permanent place.

Step 9 The level once again checks the plane of the window sill. If necessary, adjustments are made - another gasket (fourth) is placed or existing ones are adjusted.

Step 10 A small load is placed on the window sill closer to the room - in this way they achieve a snug fit of the window sill to the frame due to expanding foam.

Step 11 After half an hour, an additional 10 kg of cargo is placed on the windowsill, after which the remaining space can be foamed.

Step 12 The grooves are sealed with putty, after which the slopes can be sheathed with plastic panels.

Step 13 The joints of the window sill with the slope panels and the frame are sealed with a plastic sealant - silicone.

Step 14 After a day, the load is removed, the protective film is removed.

Now you can install plugs from the ends, and remove the protective film.

For information: on balconies and loggias, the window sill is installed according to the same algorithm.

The nuances of installing window sills from other materials

How to fix a window sill to a plastic window made of other materials? A window sill made of natural and artificial stone must be fixed with glue. To do this, the base of the window opening is leveled with a cement-sand mortar. The ends of the stone are protected with felt.

A wooden window sill can be installed in various ways:

clamping method - under the frame;
on wedges;
on glue;
on the brackets.

Conclusion

On sale you can choose a window sill for every taste and at any price:

from natural stone (granite, marble);
artificial stone (acrylic, quartz agglomerate);
tree;
Chipboard, MDF;
plastic.

The installation instructions are simple. Provides the following types of work:

measurements of the window opening are carried out;
a panel is bought and then cut to size;
grooves are knocked out in the wall;
the base is cleared of debris;
wedges are placed;
the plane of the window sill is set in accordance with the requirements of the technological regulations;
the window sill board is fastened with mounting foam;
the grooves are sealed with putty, the slopes are sewn up with plastic panels.

For balcony windows, the installation of window sills is carried out according to the same scheme.

Plastic windows in recent years have become an integral element of any interior. Regardless of the style decision of the room, energy-efficient plastic windows and window sills made of the same material are installed in it. It is durable, and thanks to a large assortment of decorative films, a very beautiful material has firmly entered our lives. The article will discuss how to properly fix the plastic window sill.

Advantages of a plastic window sill

The most popular materials for window sills are wood, plastic and stone.

Wooden window sills are too finicky and require constant care. In addition, over time, they dry out or are damaged from frequent staining.
Stone window sills are certainly durable and beautiful, but they are very expensive and you cannot install them yourself.
Plastic window sills are not only strong, light and beautiful, but according to their technical characteristics, they are the best match with PVC profile windows, which will make their maintenance easier.

In addition, the service life will be the same, therefore, having mounted a window, slopes and window sills, you will not have to replace or restore any one element.
If the window frame has a lamination, then the same film is selected for the window sill.
Due to its properties, plastic is resistant to moisture, so even with possible condensation on the windows, it will not start to rot. With regular care, mold does not form on it, since the surface does not have microcracks.
Lower price than a wooden or stone window sill of the same size.
Resistant to aggressive chemical environment.
Due to the light weight and plasticity of the material, it is easy to cut and install independently without special tools.
The plastic window sill is not a cast plate. It consists of transverse chambers. This not only reduces weight, but also serve as additional thermal insulation.
More expensive pvc window sill models have a special coating that makes it resistant to high temperatures and mechanical damage.

They have only one drawback - low strength.

How plastic window sills are made

There is no official classification of plastic window sills, but they are conditionally divided into several types.

Standard plastic window sills. They are the most popular. They are made in white, width is from 20 to 100 cm in 5 cm increments. It has the lowest resistance to mechanical damage.

Thermal and shock-resistant plastic window sills. It is rational to mount them in wide openings that serve as a work surface. For example, when the kitchen window sill is used as a table. Lamination with a special film gives special strength to the product.
Laminated window sills. They are more beautiful, but their characteristics remain the same. Films not only give color to the window sill, but can also imitate natural materials (stone, wood). Despite the fact that the lamination method is reliable, a number of manufacturers offer window sills that have an acrylic layer on top of the lamination. In this case, the surface strength increases several times (however, both the cost and weight also negate its advantages).
Panels are made by extruding PVC blanks with an extruder. The surface is laminated with a film that gives the window sill smoothness and further protects its surface from damage. The thickness of the window sill varies from 1.8 to 2.2 cm.

How to choose a plastic window sill

At first glance, all window sills are the same and there is a desire to purchase the cheapest one. But professionals know a few nuances that will help you choose the best quality product.

The plastic window sill must be made from high-quality raw materials that have passed the quality test for safety for humans. This can only be tracked by the product certificate.
Also, the store must provide detailed characteristics of the material. These include UV resistance (especially important for colored items), mechanical strength and resistance to condensation.

Having received all the necessary information, choose a model that is suitable in design and size.

It is best to choose a white window sill. This is due to the fact that it is guaranteed not to fade under the influence of direct sunlight. And small scratches on it will be almost invisible, unlike color models.

Tip: cheap plastic may turn yellow in a few years, so it is recommended to choose white window sills from the middle price segment.

A plastic window sill, regardless of price and manufacturer, is a panel with stiffening ribs 1.5 - 3 mm thick and air chambers between them. It is the number of stiffeners that is responsible for the strength of the window sill. The higher their number, the more load it can withstand.
The panels have a standard length of 600 cm. You can buy and cut them yourself, or order them ready-made according to individual sizes.

Tip: in order not to be mistaken in preliminary calculations, it is recommended to call a measurer.

The width of the panels is from 20 to 100 cm. Initially, the increase step is 5 cm, after 60 cm - 10 cm. Based on this, measure the internal size of the window opening (depth). Since the window sill should protrude forward (but not completely cover the radiator), add another 10 cm.
For example, the depth of the window sill in a panel house is 15 cm, add 10 more, and you get 25 cm - the required width of the panel.

Preparing the walls before installing the plastic window sill

Before you install plastic window sills with your own hands, you need to prepare the walls.

First, all debris is removed from the window opening and dusted, so that in the future the mounting foam has the best adhesion. It is especially important to do this if the installation is to replace an old wooden window sill.
The side walls of a window opening are called slopes. Often the window sill is laid simply from edge to edge, but this is wrong. The secrets of installing a window sill is to deepen it on the sides into the wall by 2-4 cm. For this, recesses are made with a perforator.

What you need to install a pvc window sill

If the work is done in a wooden house, then the number of tools will be minimal, in concrete and brick houses everything is more difficult.

Perforator;
Bulgarian;
level 1 m long;
polyurethane foam and a gun for it;
stationery knife;
wedges (from MDF, laminate or wood).

How to put a window sill on a plastic window with your own hands

Important: the window sill should not cover the battery. Impaired air circulation will cause condensation to form on the windows.

Having the exact dimensions, the window sill is cut with a grinder to the required parameters, taking into account the protrusions along the walls by 2-4 cm on each side. If the window opening has a complex configuration, first a layout is cut out on cardboard and a fitting is done. If everything fits, then the contour is transferred to the panel.
If the house is not new, and the opening is much lower than the groove under the plastic window frame, which is provided for the window sill, first the pieces of wood are laid to the desired height. Then the prepared window sill is inserted into the groove between the window profile and the foam to a depth of 2 cm.
After that, with the help of a level, they begin to regulate its evenness. You can make it higher or lower by means of thin wooden wedges, which either raise or lower the window sill to the desired height. They are placed at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In the future, they will remain inside the structure and will play the role of holding elements.

Tip: you need to install the window sill with a slight slope towards the room, literally 5 mm. This will allow the condensation to roll off rather than stay against the frame.

Then you need to foam the space under the windowsill. It is best to use two-component foam that does not expand. When using the usual one, you will have to fill the surface of the window sill with heavy loads. To do this, put heavy bags with building mixtures, large cans of water, etc.
After a day, the load can be removed, and the excess foam can be cut off with a clerical knife.
As a final step, decorative caps are put on the sides of the window sills.

The places where the window sill adjoins the internal slopes of plastic windows are closed with corners.

How the window sill is attached to the plastic window photo

Do-it-yourself plastic window sill installation tips

The process of polymerization (hardening) of the mounting foam is much faster in a humid environment. Therefore, before filling the space under the window sill with foam, it is moistened with a spray gun or any other sprayer.
It is not recommended to fill in too much foam. Since it has the properties to expand several times and can push the window sill up, despite the load. To avoid this, small gaps are left between the freshly squeezed foam strips, which are guaranteed to close when expanded.
If it is not possible to bring the window sill panel into the slopes and under the window profile, then it is adjusted perfectly. All joints are treated with a colorless silicone sealant.

Do-it-yourself installation of a plastic window sill video

An indispensable attribute of any window system is a window sill. In addition to performing a decorative function, it additionally protects the room from the penetration of cold in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base profile. The most widespread are plastic (PVC), wooden and partly granite window sills. But since plastic products cost less, have high performance, their weight is lower, they are in great demand. Installation work does not require special skills, so installing the window sill, if you have the necessary tools, can be done by hand.

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When is window sill replacement required?

A large selection of PVC plates allows you to choose the product of the desired characteristics according to the following parameters:

color design, with imitation of stone or precious wood;
dimensions in mm: width 110–800, length 4050–6000, thickness 18–22;
certain manufacturer;
affordable cost per linear meter;
quality and composition of polyvinyl chloride;
resistance to wear and damage, heat, UV radiation.

There are several reasons why the owners of an apartment or house decide to install a window sill on their own:

The windows are in good condition, but the panel has fallen into disrepair - damaged, scratched, squeezed.
The previous product was not attached correctly.
After the repair, there was a desire to install a PVC plate of a different color, more suitable for the new interior.
Changing the panel width. Replacing it with a narrow product that does not block the movement of warm air from the heating element upwards, thereby improving the circulation of air flows. The window frame warms up and does not dampen, which reduces the likelihood of mold.
It is difficult to find a specialist to perform small amounts of work in the form of one window sill.
The desire to carry out the installation yourself, saving a little money.

To successfully install the window sill on your own, you will need to additionally purchase two end caps, they are attached to the side sections of the product at the final stage of work. And when connecting two window sill panels at an angle or in a straight line, they acquire a universal PVC connector.

Tools and materials

The quality of the work performed, the ease and convenience of their implementation, the service life of the entire window structure depend on the quality and class of the tools and materials used. First of all, you need to prepare:

PVC window sill;
building level with measuring tape, pencil;
electric jigsaw, grinder;
mounting foam cylinder for a special gun;
stationery knife;
wooden wedges of different thicknesses;
mounting brackets, self-tapping screws;
chisel with a hammer;
spatula with primer.

Preparatory work

Before you put the window sill, you need to prepare a place , side slopes and the lower part of the window opening. The recesses in the slopes are an additional support for the canvas on the sides, so the panel should go into the walls a little. To do this, by attaching it to the wall, appropriate marks are made on each side with a pencil (marker). Next, the grooves are selected, deepening by 1–2 cm. This work, in order to prevent the formation of large holes and excessive damage to the slopes, should be carried out very carefully.

If there are metal perforated corners, it will be correct to make horizontal cuts in the slopes with the help of a grinder, then the cut will turn out to be absolutely even. The rest of the recess is completed with a chisel and hammer, which are well suited for working on any soft surfaces, such as gypsum plaster. If the walls are made of concrete, then the side grooves are made with a puncher with a special nozzle in the form of a chisel.

Only after that, the bottom of the window opening with the installed stand profile is prepared, to which the window sill is adjoined and aligned with the window. The surface is cleaned of the remnants of plaster, concrete, bricks and the dust generated during the work with slopes is swept away. For better adhesion to the mounting foam, the prepared base is moistened, but it will be wise to use a primer by applying it over the surface with a brush. Having soaked all the pits, bulges and cracks, it will securely fasten the base.

Taking measurements and trimming

Before starting installation, it will be necessary to take measurements, the appearance and strength of the future structure depend on the correct implementation of which. Therefore, in addition to the characteristics and properties of a PVC product, one has to take into account such nuances as its thickness and the distance between the battery and the window sill. Otherwise, the stove hanging over the heater, disrupting the air circulation, will cause a deterioration in the microclimate in the room.

The length of the installed panel should exceed the distance between the slopes and go into them to a depth of two to three centimeters. The width is chosen arbitrarily, but since the window sill is located above the battery, the front protrusion is made no more than 8 cm, which is necessary for normal heating and movement of air masses inside the room. For this reason, the vertical distance from the battery is maintained at least 10 cm.

On the sides of the window sill, gaps of 5 mm must be left. Their presence will help to avoid damage caused by deformation of the panel when it is heated by a battery or exposed to sunlight. To maintain the required distance, beacons 5 mm thick are used, which are removed at the final stage of work, and the gaps formed in their place are sealed with sealant.

In accordance with the measurements taken, a window sill of the required length and width is cut out of the workpiece. To do this, it is better to use a jigsaw or a grinder, a hacksaw with a fine-toothed metal saw, which will allow you to get perfectly even edges. Since plastic is a fragile material, sawing should be done carefully, without applying excessive force.

If the above requirements are not met, chips, cracks are formed, and the edge of the panel will turn out to be uneven. Work must be carried out in compliance with all safety measures, therefore, to protect against small particles formed during intensive cutting, it is necessary to wear work gloves and goggles.

Installation instructions

There are several ways to install a window sill.

The oldest method involves fixing it with a special compound. Today, due to the emergence of more convenient, reliable mounting options, it is rarely used.
With the help of self-tapping screws. Holes for hardware are prepared in the window frame. After they are treated with acrylic sealant, the edge of the window sill is led under the window and fixed with screws.
On spring clips. The fasteners are screwed directly to the substitution profile and the product is installed in the groove formed between the frame and the brackets.
Wedging with the help of bars. They are driven under the panel until it stops, trying to keep its edge pressed against the frame. This method is considered the most time-consuming, but at the same time reliable.

Additional structural rigidity, regardless of the chosen installation method, is given by placing special linings under the window sill and filling the resulting voids with mounting foam.

The product is easier and more convenient to fix on mounting foam, having previously leveled it on wooden or plastic stands. They can be prepared in various thicknesses, lengths and widths, which makes it easy to adjust in height. If the space between the base and the window sill exceeds 100 mm, then it is partially filled with mortar, while leveling the surface. Under the foam, a gap of several centimeters is enough.

The supports are installed, maintaining a distance of 400-500 mm between them, but in an amount of at least three units - one in the center, two along the edges. The thickness of the substrate is chosen in such a way that the window sill fits exactly between the supports and the lower edge of the window. Further, special mounting plates bent at an angle are screwed onto the stand profile to hold the panel. By pressing the front of the workpiece, they minimize the chance of a gap. Instead of plates, you can use long screws.

Having prepared the supports and installed the panel, they make a preliminary alignment relative to the horizon. If it is planned to fill the window sill space with mineral wool, and not with mounting foam, then the slab is removed and the supports are glued to the base with silicone glue.

Having removed part of the protective film on the sides - at the junction with the slopes, end caps are attached to them. The panel is carefully wound up and, leaning on the substrates, is inserted into place. With light tapping, the window sill is adjusted to the window until it stops, thereby aligning it in width.

Re-check the position relative to the horizon in the transverse and longitudinal directions. Ideally, the air bubble of the level should be centrally located, but a slight offset towards the room is allowed. Then the presence of a slope will prevent the accumulation of moisture.

When installing a window sill on a balcony or loggia, there are some nuances. Since there is no reliable support, the workpiece has to be fixed on the brackets. They are pre-mounted on a stand profile or lower on the wall using self-tapping screws with press washers. The minimum number of brackets per window sill is at least 4 pieces. It is recommended to maintain a distance of no more than 25 cm between them. For the reliability of the structure, the panel with the frame is additionally fastened with screws.

The final stage of work

When the mounting foam solidifies, it increases in volume, and the window sill can, having risen, be deformed. Therefore, before foaming the window sill space, the panel is loaded using any available weighting agents - water containers, books, collapsible dumbbells. They will hold it in place, and the foam will be squeezed out along the entire length. Excess hardened foam is cut off with a knife and final finishing is carried out.

After installing the window sill, all detected gaps and cracks in the area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes and at the bottom of the window are eliminated with silicone sealant. It is applied in a thin strip and compacted by swiping a finger from above. Excess is removed in a timely manner with a damp cloth. After drying, it will be more difficult to do this, and the result will be less accurate.

Excess dried foam is also removed, cutting it off with a clerical knife to a depth of 1 cm. Next, the surface under the panel and the large voids found flush with the wall are filled with ordinary plaster. On the ends of the window sill, using glue for PVC products, plugs are installed. At the end of all work, after the final finishing of the slopes, it remains to remove the protective film.

As you can see, installing a window sill on your own does not require special skills. The only significant obstacle may be the lack of the necessary tool and the purchase of consumables (their leftovers may no longer be useful). Accordingly, the costs will be higher than the services of a qualified specialist.