Installing an air conditioner is a very complex task that requires certain knowledge and sometimes special tools. In our article today, we will talk about how to install air conditioning at home yourself. There are various types of air conditioning systems, which include mobile and window models, as well as the so-called split systems. As part of our article, we will dwell in more detail on the sequence of actions when installing the last variety.
The process of installing a split system is quite complicated and is carried out in several steps. In this regard, all actions can be divided into three main stages, which include the following:
- Works on the installation of the indoor unit;
- Actions related to the installation of the outdoor unit;
- Vacuuming.
Each of the stages will be considered by us in detail.
Step one: install the indoor unit
If you decide to install a mobile air conditioner at home, then you don’t have to worry about the installation process, you just need to put it in the right place. But with a split system you will have to work hard, since it consists of two blocks, each of which needs a separate installation. If we talk about the indoor unit, then a number of requirements are imposed on its installation. So, for example, it should be at some distance from the ceiling, which should not be less than ten centimeters.
The importance of the above requirement should be understood, since if it is ignored, the following consequences may occur:
- his body will quickly become clogged with dust, and it will have to be cleaned almost every day;
- dust will also settle on the surface of the ceiling. As a result, not the most beautiful dust spot will be obtained;
- the system will not have enough air, and this will subsequently affect its efficiency.
Such an indentation from the wall is required so that it becomes possible to ensure a distance between the curtains and the device of at least ten centimeters. In conditions of a shorter distance, curtains or curtains will constantly flutter, which is also undesirable. Next, install the mounting plate, while it is necessary to adhere to the level. Previously, you should also equip the markup, which is performed using dowels and a puncher.
Further self-installation of the air conditioner involves making a through hole in the wall, which is required in order to lay a line and a drainage system there. For this purpose, it is required to take a drill, the diameter of which is forty-five millimeters, after which you can start making a hole. This tunnel should be designed in such a way that the slight slope required for condensate to flow through it is provided. Further actions will be related to the collection and connection of the route. First you need to measure the required length of the pipe and cut them. This will require the use of a pipe cutter. But it is better not to use a hacksaw for metal, since chips that have got inside will lead to compressor failure.
Next comes the connection of pipes - rolling is used. The quality of the connection that holds the refrigerant also depends on how well this operation is performed. Even before rolling, it is required to put the nut on the tube. This requirement is explained by the impossibility of such an action in the future. It is also important to tighten the nuts to the indoor unit as tightly as possible, this only improves the quality of the connection.
Connected pipes, electrical wiring, as well as the drainage system must be insulated and wrapped with tape. Next, the free trunk ends must be inserted into a previously made hole in the wall. As for the indoor unit itself, it is installed on a bar. At this stage, the installation stages of the air conditioner associated with its indoor unit can be considered completed. Now we move on to the next steps to install the outdoor unit.
Step two: install the outdoor unit
Solving the issue related to the competent installation of the air conditioning system, or rather its external unit, is associated with some risk. This is relevant in the case of high-altitude work. In such cases, insurance is mandatory.
As part of this stage, the first step is to install the brackets. The outdoor unit is in most cases mounted under the window. This decision about its location is explained by the fact that in this way it becomes possible to provide convenient maintenance and repair.
As for the location of the brackets, it is calculated in such a way that the external unit of the air conditioning system would be located below the level of the window sill.
After finishing the marking work, you can proceed to the stage of attaching the brackets to the wall. Due to the fact that the outdoor unit is characterized by a rather significant weight, the brackets must be fixed with maximum reliability. For this, long self-tapping screws are used, the diameter of which should not be less than twelve millimeters. After the installation of the brackets is completed, the unit itself should be lowered onto them directly. It is advisable to mount the block in tandem with an assistant, because due to the considerable mass there is a threat to drop the block.
Further, after installing the unit on the brackets, you will need to securely fasten it. But this must be done by securing all four screws. When these steps are completed, it will be possible to connect trunk elements to it. In this case, it is necessary to carry out all actions very carefully, since it is important not to confuse which of the tubes should be connected to where. In addition, even in the process of connecting them to the indoor unit, it is recommended to make appropriate marks. In all other respects, other actions are carried out similarly to the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.
Stage Three: Vacuuming
When deciding to install an air conditioner at home with your own hands, remember that vacuuming is mandatory. Such a process is a set of actions aimed at creating a vacuum in the tubes of the main line. Without these measures, it is impossible to ensure the operation of the air conditioner. Vacuuming is performed to remove dust and moisture from the pipes. This is done with a special pump connected to the system using a manometric manifold and flexible hoses.
Next, the pump is turned on and a port is opened on the outdoor unit. After the gauge needle goes into vacuum, close the port and turn off the pump. These steps will take no more than fifteen minutes to complete. It may take longer to carry out this operation, but this is not necessary. Do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, as the arrow may change its position. So, for example, when it is raised, we can talk about the lack of tightness of the system. Therefore, check all connections in general and rolling in particular.
You can start the refrigerant only after making sure that everything is tight, and it does not matter where you decide to install the air conditioner. At the same time, it is better to leave the pressure gauges in their places. First of all, you need to open the tube responsible for the supply, then the suction tube, after which you can start fixing the freon pressure. It is also important not to confuse the above sequence of actions.
Next, the first launch of the system is performed, which will not happen immediately, you will have to wait for some time. Then you need to let it work for about fifteen minutes. This time is allotted for the complete distribution of freon through the tubes. Then control measurements of pressure are carried out, and the pump equipped with a pressure gauge is turned off. On this work on the installation of a split system can be considered completed.
Installation of a window air conditioner
In cases where you want to install a window air conditioner at home, the steps are somewhat different, since its design is significantly different from a split system. To do this, you will need to remove its front panel and remove the block located on the skid. After that, the housing should be installed with a slight slope towards the street. Then it is assembled in the reverse order and connected to the outlet, adjusting the required power.
A split system for indoor air conditioning is a more complex system than a conventional air conditioner. But it is worth noting that installing a split system with your own hands is a completely feasible process for each owner of this device.
Installation instructions
Installation instructions for split systems include the following items:
- Choosing a location for the system.
- Installation of air conditioner.
- Installation of the internal system compartment.
- First, test run.
Of course, today there are many specialized companies involved in the installation and maintenance of indoor air conditioning systems. But most owners, in order to save money, prefer to mount the device on their own on site, and subsequently engage in its maintenance, all this is possible, even if before that you had no skills and did not encounter this equipment. It's just worth considering one factor when you install and configure a new system yourself, keep in mind that the store warranty will no longer apply to such equipment.
Selecting a location for the system
The air conditioning system must be located in a place that will not be cluttered up later. Air intakes and air distribution openings must be fully accessible.
The outdoor and indoor units should preferably be on the same level. If this is not feasible, then the maximum allowable height difference should be no more than 5 meters.
As for the wall on which you will hang the blocks, it must be sufficiently even and strong in order to withstand the considerable weight of the structure. That is why you should avoid installing an air conditioner on interior partitions.
The rules for installing split systems completely exclude direct sunlight from entering the indoor unit of the device. The condenser grid itself must be completely protected from direct rays. If the installed outdoor unit will be located on the roof, then its front side must be turned to the shady side.
It is also necessary to provide for the conditions for the installation of a drainage system, through which the condensate formed during the operation of the installation will be discharged to the outdoor unit.
The plastic used most often for the indoor unit is very sensitive to known fluorescent lamps, so it is desirable to install the device in a location that is far away from them.
And one more important condition. The internal compartment must be at least 1 meter from the microwave oven, as the radiation emitted by the microwave oven during operation adversely affects the operation of the installation and causes interference.
Selecting a location for the outdoor unit
When installing the outer compartment, the most important thing is a strong mount. The wall must be flat, the fasteners in the form of special brackets must be installed in such a way as to dampen the vibration that occurs during the operation of the device as much as possible.
It is necessary to carry out the installation of the split system yourself so that the outer part of the system is located in a place accessible for subsequent installation and maintenance work. Of course, all air intakes should not be forced by anything.
Installation of air conditioner
Before proceeding with the installation of the air conditioner, you need to take care of the availability of the necessary funds. You will need the following tool for installing split systems:
- drilling hammer;
- pipe cutter;
- flaring tool;
- pump;
- a device that measures the pressure in a liquid.
Installation of the device includes the following operations:
- Initially, you should open the front panel and unscrew the screws from the cover that closes the electrical box, it must be pulled out.
- An electrical cable is connected to the unit and the cover is put in place. A couple of useful notes, the unit itself should not be lower than 2m 30 cm from the floor surface, the socket should be close to the element, and have a ground connection.
Installation of the drainage system
The drain hose must run under the connecting pipe. It should not twist or bend. In the future, the hose must be wrapped with heat-insulating materials. Where the drainage route runs close to the wall, it is desirable to lay inserts of heat-insulating material. And the track itself is usually wrapped with felt tape.
Be sure to check the reliability of the connection of the joints of the drainage system, as this can subsequently lead to leaks. Next, the pipe is passed through a hole in the wall, and the block, which will be located indoors, is hung on the wall.
Experts are advised to adhere to the following restrictions when connecting a pipe line. From the inside, the number of possible bends in the route should not exceed 10 in total. The radius of the most possible bend should not exceed 10 cm.
The cap on the evaporator tube must only be removed immediately before installation work. First, air is released, then the nut on the connecting tube of the evaporator is unscrewed. Oil must be applied to the joint.
Hole tightness
Independent installation of a split system must be accompanied by careful sealing of all docking holes. It all starts with sealing the hole in the wall. For this, the usual standard putty is suitable.
The drainage pipe is usually tightly fixed with a special clamp. With regard to the electrical connection and the cable connecting the units for data transmission, they must be connected in accordance with a special diagram. Usually it is attached to the device passport. Depending on the type of installation and the manufacturer, the connection must also be made.
The cable and data line are connected to the appropriate terminals, which are usually marked with different colors. The cables connecting the two units must also be secured with a special clamp. 
During the installation process, be sure to pay attention to the following factors:
- The electrical unit must be securely fixed and closed. If this condition is not met, the risk of electric shock or elementary fire increases, since dust, dirt or water can easily get inside.
- The electrical connection cable must under no circumstances be connected to the cold pipe. The cable through which the freon passes heats up during the operation of the installation, so their contact should be excluded.
How to bleed air
Do-it-yourself installation of a split system implies that you will also have to bring the system itself into working condition with your own hands. Initially, you need to get rid of the airiness of the system. To do this, you need to bleed air from the system.
- The nut of the service pipe, as well as the plugs on the liquid and gas valves, must be unscrewed.
- To do this, it is necessary to turn the gas valve by 90 degrees with an ordinary hexagon. counterclock-wise. After counting about 10 s. turn back and close it. Then apply a normal soapy solution to check for gaseous leaks.
- If you did not find any leaks, repeat the procedure again, but after 10 seconds do not close it back, but press the fitting for service work. Steam should come out, indicating that air has begun to escape from the system.
Extra Freon charge
The maximum length of the connecting hoses through which freon moves must not exceed 7 meters. But in the case when another installation of the system is impossible for one reason or another, it is necessary to increase the length of the route for the refrigerant. In this case, a mandatory refueling of freon into the system will be required.
When all the work has been completed and, if necessary, additional charging of freon into the system has been made, the next step will be the need to make a trial run of the installation.
It is advisable to take care of your own safety before this action. Pressing the forced start button will start the system. Sometimes the system beeps twice when turned on. This indicates that you can control the device using the remote control. In order to check its operation, you should also alternately press the buttons on the remote control.
Air conditioner installation guide:
1. Attach the hanging plate of the indoor unit.
you need: a level, a tape measure, a pencil, a small puncher / drill, a drill, self-tapping screws, chopsticks, a stepladder, a screwdriver, possibly a hammer, a vacuum cleaner, a device for finding hidden wiring.If something is missing, garbage is a question, do not rush to buy, because you don’t need it except this time. You can hang it on the eye, bullshit the question is that it's a little crooked, but you can always proudly say, hand-mei, I hung it myself.
There is no stepladder, bullshit question, chair on chair taxis Foreva. It is desirable that the area of the seat of the lower chair be slightly less than the spread of the legs of the upper chair. This will bring special, spicy notes, and the neighbors will be able to replenish their vocabulary with catchphrases.If there is no drill, bullshit question, the walls are usually well picked with a nail.
No screwdriver, bullshit question, there is a hammer.
No hammer, bullshit question, something heavy to find nifiga is not a problem.
If there is nothing to fasten, bullshit is a question, nails, adhesive tape, cold welding, glue, for greater reliability, it is better to combine several methods of fastening.
So, the plate is fixed securely.
-2. Make a hole in the wall, and not just a hole, but a normal hole so that the rolling pin crawls through with a whistle + a slight downward slope.
you need: a large hammer drill, a long drill, a stepladder, masking tape, an industrial vacuum cleaner, a device for finding hidden wiring.
Stepladder, see problem 1, the neighbors will become polyglots.
A device for searching for hidden wiring, garbage is a question, an additional charge of vivacity will not be superfluous.
Perforator, drill, bullshit question, of course, a nail will not work or it was necessary to start in the winter, but a hefty chisel + hammer rules the future. A couple of days of work and a meeting with fresh air.
Molar tape, cellophane, industrial vacuum cleaner, bullshit question. As a child, they played war games, well, the same thing + a smoke screen and you are invisible to the enemy.
And of course, all your household members will get great, incomparable pleasure doing such a little cleaning after the "war".
Well, the hole is ready, the garbage is huge and crooked, but it will be convenient to lay the tracks.
-3. We look at the hole, at the indoor unit at the estimated distance to the outdoor unit and understand that the drain pipes are short, um, the task.
you need: flaring, gas burner (for proper installation), pipe cutter, drainage tube, flex (insulation is shorter)
Well, we’re not suckers what kind of thread, it’s clear that we bought a couple of meters of a copper seamless tube of different diameters in advance, or maybe not copper, or maybe not seamless, or maybe no diameter, garbage is a question, the main thing is what would be cheaper, but there , adjust in place.
There is nothing, garbage is a question, the main thing is there are pipes, and miraculous cold welding will fix everything + glue on top + adhesive tape + wrap with wire + another layer of cold welding, for reliability, the stump is clear.
The fact that the chips got into the tubes when you sawed it with a hacksaw. No hacksaw, did you gnaw with your teeth? you che, khryas about a knee and all, then a hole was torn open with a knife... the same option, the main thing is more cold welding.
Drainage, drainage, drainage, um, there's a piece of hose from my grandmother's washing machine, which her grandfather gave her in honor of the anniversary of the Battle of Borodino.
In general, they lengthened the tracks, put them with tons of ore into the hole, and what the hell did you think, three layers of cold welding, glue, 2 rolls of adhesive tape, a coil of wire 3kg in weight, a hose, so its races like that, they forgot the hose, screwed it all up, it seems to have passed, with a bias no, HZ, the main thing has climbed through and thanks for that
They hung the indoor unit .... staggering somehow, garbage is a question, the welding has not yet frozen, tape it over it, tape it. WAH! What a beauty.
-4. Outdoor unit.
Need to. Level, small perforator, small drill, fastenings vn. blocks, bolts, keys.
And I must say, we live on the ground floor, so there are no problems here, they just put him on the ground and his mother. Don't forget to put the grid.
-5. Connect the lines of the indoor unit to the outdoor unit and vacuum.
you need: monomer, compressor, flaring, keys.
There is nothing, garbage is a question, we take a vacuum cleaner, turn on the full power of the route into the pipe, high sucks and creates a vacuum, oh how.
And now quickly, the main thing is quickly, until the vacuum has come out, attach the tracks to the external unit, bullshit question, will it come out in 10 minutes .... who? Yes, this very vacuum, if it weren’t okay ...... no, for sure, the vacuum doesn’t know how to walk.
Wiring, um, but what the hell are they, so, for electricity, for sure, damn it, they almost forgot. There is a diagram, something is not clear, but what is incomprehensible, twist it under the bolts, and that's all.
Hallelujah, everyone connected.
They crossed themselves .... he said let's go and waved his hand ....
……………….
Buzzing…..
It buzzes, it means it works, but the cold will go, I say for sure, it will go.
After some time
PS. So it’s races like that, they forgot to let the coolant in, they forgot to remove the tracks into the flexes.
They forgot something else, HZ something, but they forgot something.
Bullshit question, call the office, let them come to change under warranty, some defective got caught. That's because ********, ***** they will sell everything, and then suffer normal people. Although they saved on installation, it’s not so insulting, because their races are so.
Curtain.A manual for self-installation of split systems, FOR DUTTIES, STEP BY STEP, IN FIVE DAYS AND YOU Sensei air conditioning.
When choosing a place to install an air conditioner, the first thing to consider is that the coolest air will be at a distance of 2-3 meters from the device. Place it in such a way that this area does not include a bed, sofa or other place for sleeping or long rest. In addition, when choosing where to install the air conditioner, it is worth choosing a place remote from all heating appliances. Anything that emits heat or steam is a bad neighbor for an air conditioner, unless of course you want to arrange room tornadoes 🙂. It is also undesirable for pieces of furniture to stand in the way of the air flow, otherwise the operation of the device will not be effective enough.
When choosing how to properly install an air conditioner in a room, the location of the windows is also taken into account. If you have a sunny side, then the flow of cooled air should go perpendicular to the influx of heat from the windows, in which case the temperature will be distributed most evenly. It is also not recommended to place the split system opposite the door to the room so that the cooled air does not go to other rooms.
When installing the air conditioner under the ceiling, you must also take into account the necessary indentation - at least 15 cm from the ceiling, in order to provide space for air movement. Since most split systems do not provide air from the street, but only cool the existing one, for a healthy microclimate, it is better to put the air conditioner in the same room as it will supply fresh air, and the air conditioner will cool it to the desired temperature.
If you decide how to properly install the air conditioner in the bedroom, then the best solution is to place it above the bed - in this case, the coldest zone will be outside the bed, and the air during sleep will be at a pleasant temperature.
If we talk about how to properly install the air conditioner in the kitchen, then, in addition to moving away from heat sources, which include the stove, you need to take into account the fact that if the air flow enters other rooms, then the smells from the kitchen will go throughout the apartment . If you have a gas stove, then you should not place the air conditioner opposite it either, since the air from it will blow out the flame. In the kitchen, there is often not enough space to install a split system in accordance with all the rules, in which case you can choose a corner or compact installation, now such options are also available on the market.
What you need to know about installing a split system
Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem of proper installation. Installation determines the quality and service life of the air conditioner by 90%. If errors are made during installation, then it is very difficult to correct them later.
- Solution: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, no debris, no dust, no boxes should remain in the room. The word "air conditioner" has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which in English means “air condition”. The air conditioner is used to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.
Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - a split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a "regular" air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window”, which is cut into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the house's general air conditioning system, if any (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and drives air around the house). And it differs from the "ordinary" air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.
But let's agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word "air conditioner", which is more familiar to our ears.
First - repair, then - split
So, a split system (from the English word split - “split, split”) consists of two separate blocks: an internal (evaporator) and an external or external (condenser). The blocks are interconnected by electrical wires and two copper tubes through which the refrigerant (freon) flows. A plastic thin tube (drainage) also extends outward from the indoor unit - to remove condensed moisture. Ideally, it should be connected to a drain (sewer) pipe or to a special tank, but often it is simply taken out into the street, and then drops of water fall on the heads of passers-by (for how to properly drain, see below).
The principle of operation of the split system is as follows. If the room needs to be cooled, then from the heat exchanger of the external unit, freon enters the heat exchanger of the indoor unit through one copper tube. It is blown by a fan, as a result of which cold air comes out of the indoor unit. If the air in the room needs to be heated, then with the help of a heat pump, the external condenser turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor, which is installed in the outdoor unit. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.
The indoor unit operates almost silently (for Daikin models, the noise level of some indoor units is 28 - 31 dB, and for Mitsubishi, when the engine is turned on at the lowest speed, it is 26 dB; a flying butterfly creates the same noise level). But the fan and compressor of an external device can “buzz” and louder.
According to the mounting method, indoor units are wall-mounted and floor-ceiling (floor-ceiling are called so because they can be attached to both the ceiling and the floor). There are also cassette and multi-zone indoor units, but we will talk about them next time.
In apartments, wall-mounted indoor units are most often installed. With the help of movable shutters of the wall unit, you can change the direction of the air flow. But the power of wall blocks is specially limited - otherwise a strong stream of cold air will simply “blow off” everything in its path. But if a room (for example, in an office) requires a more powerful air conditioner, a floor-to-ceiling unit is installed. It will allow you to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure an even distribution of temperature in the room.
Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more efficient to install a floor-to-ceiling air conditioner!
Split systems differ in power (cooling capacity) and design. The choice of design is at the discretion of the buyer. But about the power, you must definitely consult with a specialist. In doing so, you need to know:
- 1. The area (volume) of your room.
- 2. The dimensions of the window, the direction of the world to which it goes.
- 3. The presence (absence) of blinds on the windows.
- 4. The number of constantly operating equipment that generates heat (TV, computer, etc.).
- 5. The number of radiators in the rooms.
- 6. The number of people permanently in the room.
- 7. Is there forced ventilation?
Another tip: if the company where you want to buy an air conditioner didn’t ask you anything about it, then it’s better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are offered a "typical not that." In reputable companies, before selling the air conditioner, the consultant, as a rule, travels to the place of the intended installation of the device, takes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all this data is entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. So, for example, they work in the Aeroprof company specializing in Carrier air conditioners (USA), in the Meteomarket company (Daikin air conditioners) and the KlimatSS company (Hitachi air conditioners) ).
What else do you need to know? Experts advise INSTALLING A SPLIT SYSTEM BEFORE or DURING REPAIR, and not after all repairs have already been completed. Then you do not have to gouge and drill freshly painted and leveled walls to lay the electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fixing the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications in external boxes, but this will not decorate the interior.
Moreover, installation work in a freshly renovated apartment is much more expensive, especially after renovation.
Now about other possible "ambushes". Very often mistakes begin even when buying an air conditioner. Wanting to save money, we go to the nearest store (or even to the market) and buy an air conditioner. So what? And that's all: we are one on one with him. At best, after carefully reading the instructions, we undertake to install it.
Meanwhile, installing a split system in an apartment is not at all the same as installing a refrigerator or a TV: they say, they brought it home, put it in the chosen place, turned it on and it works! With air conditioning, such a room will not work. Air conditioning requires proper installation. This is exactly the case when it is impossible to save on installation. The better it is installed, the longer it will last. It is no coincidence that installation work is 18-30% of the cost of the unit.
I remember how one experienced and restrained-looking installer, answering my completely innocent question: where to start installing the air conditioner, suddenly got excited and yelled: “People! You are all smart! Each air conditioner is given an instruction in Russian, in which both installation and operating rules are described “for fools”, point by point. Read it, damn it, before sticking your hands in! Better yet, call the experts. And, alas, he is right.
Installation: where to start?
Split system installation diagram
- 1. Communications (in strobe)
- 2. Drainage (in strobe)
- 3. Sewerage
- 4. Siphon
- 5. Electrical wiring - to the shield (in the strobe)
- 6. Hole in the wall, punched with an inclination of 1–3°
First stage: separate electrical wiring is carried out
To any, even a low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate electrical wiring and put a separate machine in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, catch fire. If, however, a separate wiring for the air conditioner is laid by specialist installers, the possibility of fire is reduced to almost zero.
Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed for the loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember the case when the owner of the apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out plugs.
Second stage: installation of the outdoor unit
To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, on which they then install the outdoor unit.
If you put it on an open balcony, then there is no problem: they attached it with bolts, the breeze blows it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the unit to the wall, then you can not do without strong brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the "outdoor" is mounted from a machine equipped with a sliding ladder. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes equipment is required in the form of a car with a fire escape-boom, and a climber.
If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3-20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).
If your apartment is located on the first floor, I highly recommend hanging the outdoor unit above 1.8-2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. And they can steal it. At one of the firms we were told a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. Managers were surprised: "Why don't you want a whole split system." - “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, under the window hung. Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, it is necessary to make a metal visor above it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.
In general, installing an outdoor unit is a responsible matter. If it is loosely fastened, it can fall down ... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will be responsible.
What can not be done with the outdoor (outdoor) unit?
There are space limitations for installing the outdoor unit:
- 1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
- 2. Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to a refrigerant leak). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.
Third stage: installation of the indoor unit
Installers fasten special brackets to the wall (if the unit is wall-mounted) or ceiling (if the unit is ceiling-mounted) with screws and install blocks on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening (does the structure stagger? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later, the whole structure may simply collapse on your head.
But for the floor unit, special fasteners are not required. He, as they say, "stands on foot." You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, keep in mind that the unit does not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stand away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all the communications, it is no longer possible to move it from place to place.
So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:
- 1. ... above a heat source (for example, above a battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work for cooling “until the pulse is lost” and will fail very quickly. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the chamber, but the whole room. It will "work" and fail by the end of the day. The same will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat from the room battery may deform the plastic housing of the unit.
- 2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly working (for example, a drill, a drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can "knock down" the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
- 3 . ... directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse, getting pneumonia.
- 4. …where air circulation will be difficult, such as behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back with the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate is set and turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly “got confused in the curtains” and turned off before it had time to bring the room temperature to the set one. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
- 5. ... with a skew - then water (condensate) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be discharged through a drainage pipe into a special reservoir (see our certificate of drainage).
Fourth stage: chasing walls or floors
In order to connect the electrical wires and freon tubes between the air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or on the ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “probe the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “stroke”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.
Don't want to ditch? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are removed under the plinth). But before that, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for refrigerant) and "ends" of electrical wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this with the connection fittings. And in a pre-punched hole in the outer wall, they laid a “waterproof glass” with a connecting hose.
After that, they must carry out the so-called evacuation of communications, and be sure to do so for 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation is done with the help of special equipment.
And keep in mind - for the drainage tube, as a rule, they make a separate hidden line (in the wall or under the floor).
Fifth stage: checking the operation of the system using a special program
At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by installing it on the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then it is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we advise you to independently conduct such a check of the system operation every year (using the same test program).
Sixth stage: garbage collection
I must warn you: laying the line and other installation procedures are dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will come with special tools (including a metal detector to examine the walls for fittings and hidden communications).
In addition, installers must have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning machines. With their help, after the work is completed, they must independently remove all garbage. If the installers are trying to dodge the "dirty" work, strictly demand - "cleaning the territory" is included in the payment for the installation of the air conditioner. In addition, you can conclude an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of a split system. Then you don't have to, risking your life, leaning out of the window to the waist, clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers with your own money. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it's worth it. By the way, we hasten to inform you of a pleasant detail: Meteomarket, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year service contract expires. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted good work. By the way, in the notorious building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been standing since the time of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.
The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period of the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned immediately) breaks down. Of course, you can vacuum it if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.
At temperatures below -15 ° C, the air conditioner may refuse to work "for heat", and then low-temperature equipment (a heat pump, a compressor heater and even a drain pipe heater) will be needed. By the way, some models are already equipped with these devices (see table).
What did the installers say?
Experienced installers do not advise buying air conditioners "from whomever you have", on the market or from hands.
“How many times it happened, such illiterate buffoons will carry out the installation, and then people call us, begging for help,” one experienced installer from a very reputable company told me. - It used to be that such unfortunate installers would bring with them a copper pipe for freon, and it had no plugs. If there are no plugs, then moist air will get inside. And humidity is unacceptable for the air conditioner: when combined with the insides of the entire system, it forms an acid that corrodes the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving properly for many years, such an air conditioner is, of course, sent to a landfill in three years.
The installers told me that sometimes they come across especially stubborn customers, they say, “I'm crying, do as I say!”. How to be? Here was a case recently. The client ordered to install the outdoor unit not from the side of the street, but inside the apartment, moreover, in the children's room. He motivated this by a strange statement that his children, they say, will live in the country for another two months. He ignored all the persuasion and arguments of the installers that the outdoor unit should not be placed indoors, and even more so in a residential area. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything on a new one.
Or here's the case. The client wanted the indoor unit to blow directly onto the bed and the air temperature to be 18°C. They tried to prove to him that it would be cold, in addition, a directed stream of cold air could cause a cold. "Not! I won't catch a cold! Bet!” Nothing to do, set. The next day they came to install the air conditioner in another room, they see, and the temperature on that, yesterday's split, is set to 22 ° C.
– What is it? they ask.
- It's true, guys, I froze at night.
In general, with the correct operation of the air conditioner, a person should not feel that something is cooling or heating him. Just comfortable - that's all! Once a friend called the company and asked to come. He says: “I didn’t buy it from you, though.” Okay, let's go. They opened the block, and there was a dead rat.
That's it. Hence the conclusion - it is not enough to buy and install a split system. The main thing is that professionals do it for you.
Our reference
The optimum temperature for human life is + 21–23°C.
Optimal air parameters in the residential area
For air conditioning a room with an area of 10 square meters, you need a device with a capacity of 1 kW, provided that the height of the walls is not higher than 3 meters.
There is a formula for calculating the cooling capacity (power):
Q(total) (excess heat) = Q1+ Q2+ Q3,
- 1. Excess heat, depending on the volume of the room, is calculated according to the following formula: Q1 = S x H x q(sp.), where S is the area of the room (sq.m.), H is the height of the room (m); q(sp.) = 0.03 kW/cu.m. - if direct sunlight does not enter the room; q(sp.) = 0.035 kW/cu.m. - mean; q(sp.) = 0.04 kW/cu.m. - if there is a lot of sun in the room.
- 2. The heat from running Q2 equipment is approximately 30% of the power it consumes.
- 3. Heat from people Q3 is 0.1 kW per person for offices and residential apartments and 0.1 - 0.3 kW for restaurants, gyms, etc. The power of the air conditioner is selected closest to the obtained value Q (gen.)
The procedure for installing a split system
1. Wiring a separate electrical wiring for the air conditioner and installing a separate "machine" in the switchboard.
2. Installation of the outdoor (outdoor) unit:
- choosing a place for its installation (not lower than 1.8–2 meters above the ground, otherwise they can be stolen - there have been cases);
- installation of supporting brackets (anchor bolts);
- strengthening the outdoor unit on the brackets;
- drilling a hole with a diameter of 5.0–6.0 cm in the outer wall for connecting communications (they will connect the external and internal blocks of the split system);
- inserting a “waterproof glass” into the hole (the material from which the “glass” is made is the know-how of installers); laying in the "glass" of connecting communications.
3. Installation of the indoor unit:
- choice of location (the horizontal distance between the indoor and outdoor units should not exceed more than 7-30 meters - depending on the brand of the system);
- installation of supporting brackets;
- strengthening the indoor unit on the brackets.
4. System wiring connection:
- chasing a wall or floor (in order to hide communications or laying wires in a plastic case);
- connection of wires (copper for refrigerant and electrical) coming from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit using connecting fittings;
- carrying out the vacuum procedure (within 50 minutes, to remove air and moisture from communications using special equipment).
5. Testing the system:
- checking the operation of the system using a special program.
6. Cleaning of the premises (by the installers).
How should proper drainage be arranged?
To do this, installers must:
- 1. Break the highway.
- 2. Turn off the water in the apartment.
- 3. Drill a hole in the sewer pipe.
- 4. Firmly insert a drainage plastic tube with a siphon into the hole. A layer of water in the siphon will delay the smell coming from the sewer.
Attention! The drainage tube, through which the accumulated moisture is removed, must necessarily go at an inclination of 5–10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If for some reason the tilt cannot be done, you must install a special pump for “forced suction of moisture”. But! This pump is not included and must be purchased separately. The purchase will cost 70 - 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.
The main problems that arise during the operation of the air conditioner
Problem 1: The air conditioner blows directly on you, creating a drafty feeling.
- Solution: It is necessary to turn on the auto-oscillation function of the horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal shutters in a better position. If this does not work, you need to turn the air flow to the left or right using the vertical air flaps. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be done using the remote control.
Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not create the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it works constantly.
- Solution: In this case, you should check if the filters are clogged, if windows and doors are closed, if additional heating devices (boilers or toasters) are working in the room. It can be recommended to hang thick white blinds on the windows, which reflect heat and light well, thus reducing the heat gain through the windows by almost half. If this does not help, the model must be replaced with a more powerful one.
Problem 3: Water is dripping from the indoor unit of the split system.
- Solution: Looks like the drainpipe is clogged. Most often, this situation occurs when an air conditioner with a drainage pipeline brought outside is turned on for cooling at sub-zero temperatures. In this case, the condensate may turn into an ice plug. To avoid this, it is necessary to heat the drainage pipeline to +5 °C using a special cable. If an ice plug nevertheless arose, then it is worth waiting for a thaw, and until that moment do not turn on the system for cooling.
Problem 4: Decreased airflow.
- Solution: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or washed with a soft sponge in warm water. It is not recommended to operate the air conditioner without a filter, as it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When the latter becomes dusty, the efficiency of the air conditioner decreases.
Problem 5: Icing of the outdoor unit during the operation of the air conditioner for heating in conditions of low negative temperatures and high humidity.
- Solution: If the air conditioner is not equipped with an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the outdoor unit begins to give off heat to the street, heats up and gradually thaws.
Problem 6: Premature failure of the air conditioner.
- Solution: To avoid this, do not operate it at temperatures below -10-15°C. At lower temperatures, the oil in the compressor thickens, and its wear increases many times over.
There are various rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But in the press center of the capital's SES, we were told that there is nothing to be afraid of: with the timely replacement of filters and subject to the operating rules, the split system does not hide any harm. At least, there were no complaints to the sanitary and epidemiological supervision.
Courtesy of MATERIAL magazine