How to install a toilet in an apartment. Do-it-yourself toilet installation: useful instructions for different models Do-it-yourself toilet installation in an apartment

The reasons for replacing the toilet can be different: changing the old one, repairing or rearranging appliances. You can hire experts, but if you want to save money, it's better to figure out how to install the toilet yourself without their help.

Installing a toilet is not such a difficult task, but you will have to master several technological operations and follow some rules.

Choosing a new toilet

Scheme of installing a toilet bowl in an open way.

First of all, you will need a new toilet. When choosing a toilet, you need to pay attention to its size and connection. The best option is to purchase a toilet bowl, similar to the one that stood earlier. This is important because you will be sure that you will not have problems with the connection, since all the holes will match. But often you want to buy something completely different, in which case you will expect difficulties with installation: the necessary spare parts for fasteners may not be available or it will be necessary to redo the sewer system if the toilet is mounted, for example, on the wall. The classic version of the toilet bowl is a floor-standing toilet bowl, in which the outlet pipe is located at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor. If you had a toilet bowl of a different design, it is better to make a drawing of it in order to avoid mistakes when buying. But of course, you can buy any model you like, especially since some come with detailed installation instructions.

When buying a new toilet bowl, you must take into account the distance between the edge of the toilet bowl and the side wall, it should not be less than 20-25 cm, and the size of the toilet bowl is selected accordingly. The second parameter that must be taken into account is the distance from the floor to the axis of the vent pipe, which is indicated in the characteristics of the toilet bowl. If the socket is too high, then you will have to raise the floor level, which is quite laborious. If the old toilet functioned without problems, then the new one should be installed in the same place.

Materials and tools for installing a toilet

To install the toilet, you will need to stock up:

Diagram of the structure of a compact toilet bowl.

• puncher to make holes in the floor;
• dowels;
• a set of wrenches;
• screwdrivers for mounting the drain tank;
• silicone sealant;
• large wrench;
• tape:
• polyethylene;
• a piece of thin rubber or old linoleum;
• pencil or marker.

For drilling holes, it is better to use a hammer drill, if it is not available, then you can rent it. If you use a conventional drill, setting it to shock mode, you can ruin the tile, and the process can drag on for a long time. With a perforator, one hole is made without much effort within 2-3 minutes.

Removing an old toilet

Before installing a new toilet, you need to dismantle the old one, you can handle this yourself. There is an option to use the old toilet bowl again, for example, in the country. But in terms of economy - this is not the best option. All plumbing fixtures are designed for a certain service life, so they can quickly fail if you do not change parts. Replacing parts with new ones can cost as much as buying a new economy class toilet. Therefore, if the toilet has served most of its life, it is better not to reuse it.

Before dismantling, it is necessary to clean the pipelines. The easiest way is to pour hot water with some kind of detergent into the sewer pipes. If you simply drain the water from the tank, this will not help much, since the old plumbing is being dismantled, and therefore there are deposits inside that will prevent dismantling. To flush the pipes, you need to take 2-3 buckets of hot water and dilute one bottle of whiteness or domestos in them, then pour it all into the toilet. Now you can start dismantling.

Toilet installation diagram.

The tank is most easily dismantled, difficulties may arise with the lower fasteners. In Soviet times, it was not common to bolt the toilet bowl to the floor, most often the toilet bowls were installed on the mortar. Since the same plumbing fixtures were installed throughout the country on concrete floors with nondescript tiles, the described method was widespread. You can break such a base only with a puncher and a hammer. Don't forget your goggles, as shards of faience can get into your eyes. If the toilet was installed relatively recently, then to dismantle it, you need to unscrew the screws with which it is bolted to the floor.

When dismantling the old toilet, some water may spill out, so you need to prepare rags and buckets in advance. Next, you need to seal the sewer pipe using a piece of polyethylene and tape. Polyethylene should simply be wound around the hole and secured with tape. This procedure is necessary in order to avoid overflowing if too much waste flows from above. The intake opening must be cleaned before sealing. If the sewer is cast iron, then you can use a hammer and a spatula. If the pipes are plastic, then they can be cleaned with a sharp knife.

After dismantling the old toilet bowl, it is necessary to clear the place where the new device will be installed. If the floor surface was damaged during dismantling, the imperfections can be filled with a repair mortar. It is not necessary to wait for the complete drying of the solution, since the defects are usually small, and there are support points for the base of the toilet bowl. It takes a month to completely dry the cement mixture, after which the surface under the toilet will be a monolith.

Installation of a new toilet

The toilet must be installed on a special gasket, for this a thin sheet of rubber or a piece of old linoleum is suitable. The toilet bowl is placed on the found material, and the place where it stands is outlined with a marker, places for fasteners are allocated. Then, with a sharp knife or scissors, all this is cut out. The gasket is placed on the floor, applying a thin layer of silicone sealant under it for structural reliability. The sealant fills in irregularities and provides good tightness, which will prevent moisture and dust from collecting. After completing this operation, you can start drilling. Drilling can be carried out along the gasket, or before it is installed. With a glued gasket, installation is easier, as it is a kind of guide. First you need to position the toilet so that it is easy to connect to the pipelines, then circle the place on the floor and glue the gasket there. This will be the guideline.

Sometimes you need to lift the toilet a little. For example, if there are two toilets in the system - one in the toilet and the other in the bathroom. So that the water does not stagnate at the lowest point, one of the toilets must be raised by 3-4 cm. A two-inch board is taken for the stand, which is cut to size, a rubber gasket is placed on top of it. All this is held together with silicone sealant.

There are two ways to fix the toilet to the floor: long metal dowels or large plastic bolts. Dowels are considered the easiest and most convenient way, they are easier to buy than specialized sanitary fasteners. The sanitary set consists of 2 long screws, 2 plastic dowels, 2 washers, 2 silicone washers and 2 decorative plastic caps to be put on the screw heads. First, holes are drilled, and then dowels are hammered into them. Next, the toilet is installed and screwed to the base. The first stage is completed, the connection of pipelines remains.

Fittings for the drain tank are easy to install, you just need to fasten the necessary nuts. Installing the corrugation is more difficult. The corrugation is a special polymeric accordion pipe designed to connect the outlet of the toilet bowl and the entrance to the sewer. Previously, there was no such accordion pipe, and builders had to adjust the toilet to the sewer inlet in such a way that the pipelines connected exactly. The junction was wrapped with a kind of fur coat, for which rags, plaster and paint were used. Corrugation simplified the sealing process.

It is very important to lubricate all joints well with sealant. Novice craftsmen often lubricate only the lower part of the connections with the corrugation, coupling and sewerage. Over time, the sewer can become clogged, all drains can go through the top edge, which was not lubricated with sealant. With proper installation, it is necessary to apply a thick layer of silicone sealant on both sides of the corrugation with a strip about 2-3 cm wide. The corrugation connects the outlet and the neck of the sewer, while the joints must be pressed down well. After installing the toilet, do not use it for 4 hours, so that the sealant takes a good fit. The toilet must be installed securely and firmly.

How to install a toilet yourself without the help of specialists

You decide to make repairs with your own hands, then you need to know how to install the toilet yourself. In this case, you can save your money, as you will not resort to the help of specialists.

How to install a toilet with your own hands

From our article you will learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands. This is a fairly simple operation, provided that you are able to shut off the cold water supply, and the supply and sewer pipes do not need major repairs. In this case, we will install a toilet bowl with a lower cistern. This option is easier, since most of the weight of the tank in this case falls on the toilet. When installing a toilet with an upper tank, you will need reliable fasteners to support the weight of the latter (this is not a problem for brick walls, but in the case of walls made of hollow materials, you will have to resort to special tricks).

1. If during the repair undertaken in the bathroom the floor height has changed somewhat, it is necessary to compensate for the difference with the help of an eccentric cuff - the so-called corrugation for the toilet bowl (for sewage) and a flexible hose (for supplying cold water). Large height changes will require the skills of a professional plumber.

2. If the floor in the bathroom is not even enough, it is better to install the toilet bowl on silicone sealant. Small wooden/plastic wedges can also be used, but sealant is essential here as it distributes the weight of the toilet evenly.

3. If the sewer pipes go down, through the floor, and not through the walls, you will need a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff. This is not the only difference, but the main one.

Assembly and installation of the toilet bowl

2. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the inside of the tank. The sequence of actions depends on the type of drain system used in the model you have chosen.

3. Make sure all parts are securely fastened, but do not overtighten the bolts and screws.

4. In most cases, bolts are sold with the cistern to attach it to the toilet. Be sure to put washers and rubber cones on before inserting bolts into their holes.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a cistern installed

6. Insert the corrugated cuff (corrugated extension) into the sewer pipe, making sure that it fits snugly. In our example, a simple straight connecting cuff is required. (When connecting the toilet bowl to a cast-iron pipe, you will need a transition cuff with a diameter of 110 mm. See photo. It must be liberally lubricated with silicone sealant and inserted into the cast-iron pipe, which was previously cleaned of dirt, see photo. Only after that you can insert a corrugated plastic cuff into it.

7. Move the toilet to the sewer pipe. Make sure that its outlet is flush with the installed nozzle. Most likely, the way it is. But if not, and the offset is quite large, then you will need to use an eccentric bellows.

8. Gently place the toilet in its place by placing the cuff over the outlet.

9. Make sure the tank is level with a spirit level along the back wall. Through the back wall of the tank, mark the places on the wall where you have to make holes for fixing it.

10. Do the same with the toilet itself: check its levelness with a spirit level and mark the mounting holes on the floor, trying to be as accurate as possible.

11. Mark the edges of the base of the toilet with a pencil on the floor. Knowing the exact position of the “leg” will come in handy when you finish the preparatory work and proceed to the final fixing of the toilet.

12. Move the toilet away from the wall. Drill holes for mounting the tank, focusing on the marks on the wall. Select (taking into account the material of the wall) and insert the dowels.

13. Drill holes in the floor at the points you marked. When drilling ceramic tiles, you will need a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit. At the beginning of drilling, the pressure on the punch should not be large; after passing through the tile layer, the pressure can be increased. Insert the dowels into the holes. If the floor is wooden, as in our case, they are not needed.

14. Before installing the toilet, apply silicone sealant to the floor along the line marked with a pencil, corresponding to the border of the base of the “leg”.

15. Put the toilet in its place. Screw the cistern to the wall by inserting washers between the screw heads and the cistern wall. Don't overtighten the screws.

16. Screw the base of the toilet to the floor. In this case, the same rules apply: firstly, do not forget about the plastic washers, and secondly, do not tighten the screws too tight.

Connecting the water and finishing the installation

17. Connect the tank to the cold water pipe. With a high probability, you will need a flexible connecting hose for this. The connection point depends on the position of the inlet pipe on the new tank.

18. Turn on the water by opening the shut-off valve and check for leaks at all connections. Also check the tightness of the junction of the toilet with the sewer and coat all connections with silicone sealant.

19. Install the toilet seat as designed. If necessary, adjust the seat to exactly match the shape of the toilet.

20. Apply silicone sealant around the base of the toilet. Smooth out any unevenness with a damp sponge, achieving a neat look.

How to install a toilet with your own hands - step by step instructions Photo

Follow our step-by-step instructions and you will learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands and what is needed for this.

How to install a toilet yourself

With "straight" hands, most of the housework can be done independently. This category of work includes the installation of a toilet bowl. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done by hand.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation is a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the features of the flush or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.

According to the installation method

The toilet itself consists of a sanitary bowl and a drain tank. The bowl can be floor mounted or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is concealed - built into the wall. In the case of a floor bowl, there are three options for fixing the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected with a flexible hose, in the installation (hidden in the frame wall).

Typical sizes of toilet bowls of different designs

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush tank is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to the hanging one, it takes up more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, for suspended models, installation is difficult - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps it is only during the repair.

Release to the sewer

The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

• with horizontal outlet;
• oblique release;
• vertical.

Types of outlets (outlets) of the toilet bowl

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet is optimal. If the exit is in the floor, but is close to the wall, the oblique toilet is most convenient. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected both to the wall and to the floor.

Installing a toilet bowl with a compact cistern (floor version)

A toilet bowl, a tank, a drain device and a float are usually brought from the store separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a "compact" cistern consist of?

The process begins with the installation of a drain device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in a hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drain device and the tank.

We install the drain mechanism inside the tank, placing a pre-rubber gasket

On the reverse side, the supplied plastic washer is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then - using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held by hand.

Tighten the nut carefully

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included in the standard package. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, rubber gaskets are put on, then washers, and only then nuts are screwed on.

Install the mounting screws on the tank

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “planted” on a sealant. First we coat it on one side, put it on the toilet bowl, coat it on the other, put the tank.

Lubricate the gasket with silicone, put on the toilet

Lubricate on the other side

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers, nuts on the screws from below, tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Installing the bowl on the bowl

Next, we put a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes in the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We put a float in the tank

We wind a little flax on the outlet pipe, coat it with sanitary paste, install a corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not clog that the pipe is made of plastic.

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, you can put it in place. The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage by means of a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that fit snugly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

Corrugation for connecting the toilet to the sewer

If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted all the way. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference on a dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then a corrugation is inserted. For greater certainty, you can go through the sealant on the outside of the joint.

In order for the installation of the toilet bowl on the old cast iron to be airtight, a layer of sealant can be laid under the corrugation

In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.

We insert the corrugation to the stop

The second end of the corrugation is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Everything is so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with soap moistened with water, only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, it will be problematic to remove the toilet without damaging the corrugation. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, rather than trying to move a partially fixed device.

Putting the corrugation on the outlet, we expose the toilet as it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is a place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, correct the position. Then they take a pencil or marker, inserting it into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.

Mark places for fasteners

Having removed the toilet bowl, holes for the dowels are drilled in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately put powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on a tile so that it does not crack, it is better to pierce the glazed surface. They take a self-tapping screw, mark it, hit it with a hammer several times. This is what is called "pinching". Then they take a drill or a puncher and drill a tile, turning off the impact mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.

Drilling holes for fasteners

We put plastic plugs from dowels in the holes. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust at the installation site of the toilet. We put it in place, insert the dowels into the holes, twist them with the appropriate key. It is necessary to tighten the bolts alternately on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet becomes firmly, without play.

The final touch is the connection to the water supply. Connect the outlet of the water pipe to the tap installed on it with the corner on the tank, which was connected earlier. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are union nuts (American), so there will be no problems with fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall hung toilet with installation

To install hanging toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - from the far edge of the order of 13-15 cm. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special overlay with which the drain is transferred closer to the wall.

The installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with fixing the stops to the wall to the installation frame. They are attached two at the top and at the bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.

Install top stops

The upper stops are in the form of rods, adjustable with a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The bottom stops are more like plates, they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with a side head.

Bottom stops and height adjustment

The assembled frame is attached to the wall, its center is exposed above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

Align height and away from wall

Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the wall-hung toilet installation is checked.

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, set by the manufacturer, is set. How convenient it is to do, look at the photo.

The specified distance to the wall is set

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. In appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drill holes. They are equipped with plastic housing dowels. Most of the hanging toilets are imported, and they recommend planting the dowel bodies on the sealant. Some of the sealant is squeezed into the drilled hole, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic case.

In a fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - branch pipes, couplings. They are all included and simply snap into place.

Pipes and connectors are installed

Pipes from the tank and sewerage are installed

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be held. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (in the lower photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

Toilet holders are installed, the sewer pipe is fixed

The sewer pipe extends to the desired distance, is fixed in a predetermined position with a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it is latched), the plug on the side surface is removed. Right or left - depends on where you have water. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, the counterpart is inserted from the inside, everything is connected with a union nut. Tighten without applying excessive force - it's plastic.

Connecting the installation to the water supply

A tee is installed inside the tank, a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. They do this with the help of an adapter and an American.

Water pipe connection

A hose from the tank is connected to a special tee inlet. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a cap nut.

Connect the hose from the tank

Install the cover in place. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall of moisture-resistant drywall. It is recommended to put two sheets, but you can use one. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

Fixing the false wall to the installation frame is mandatory

The toilet bowl is put on the pins, its outlet goes into the plastic socket. The connection is tight, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet with the installation.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation: floor-standing, hanging with installation, instructions with photos, videos

Self-installation of the toilet will save a substantial amount of money. With your own hands, you can install both a floor model and a pendant one, with an installation.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. And it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before the start of finishing in the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilet bowls are so different that they have a very different type of attachment, flush, sewer supply, etc. So, ideally, planning which toilet you have to mount with your own hands should begin already at the design stage of the toilet.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

And what to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it, avoiding the global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, a step-by-step guide and a few tips from the masters will help you save money and mount the toilet with your own hands without any problems.

Planning space in the toilet room

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet bowl that is to be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

• whether it is necessary to dismantle the toilet bowl, which has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and supply of sewer communications and floor screed);
• what are the dimensions of the new plumbing - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
• what mount your future toilet has;
• what is the way to flush the toilet;
• At what height do you want to install plumbing.

If you know the answers to all these questions, it remains only to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet bowl.

Recall that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in form and its device.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet, which needs to be dismantled, is not wall-mounted, which means that it is attached to the floor. It will be possible to remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

1. Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

Before breaking the toilet, you must turn off the water supply and unscrew the tank

Removing an old toilet

If the neck is disconnected from the pipe, and the toilet is tightly glued to the floor with mortar, then you need to take a chisel and carefully chip the pedestal from the mortar, you can use parts

If there are no plans for an old toilet, and you are seeing him off on his last journey, then after swinging it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to carry it out. You will also have to do the same if the fasteners of the old plumbing are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, evaluate the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron create many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet bowl and distributing sewer drains.

Self-installation of plumbing "step by step"

For normal operation, the toilet bowl needs a flat, lined or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

1. First, we connect the drain of the toilet bowl with the help of a corrugation to the outlet of the sewer pipe-riser. You can also use a hard tube. The best option is if the toilet drain enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to consider that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

Toilet installation - cuff

We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

Then we take a corrugated pipe and also apply silicone sealant

We install the corrugation in the pipe

Then we carefully move the toilet bowl and install its outlet into the corrugated pipe seal

To prevent water from getting under the toilet during mopping, this place can be sealed with silicone sealant

We fix on the floor: 3 types of fasteners

1. The first option for floor installation is anchors embedded in the screed. During the pouring of the floor, long anchors are fixed at the place where the toilet bowl and its fasteners will be located. After the screed dries and the floor is finished, a toilet bowl is attached to the anchor. This is the most difficult method of fastening, since it is difficult to install the anchors so evenly that the toilet stands on them without problems. It often happens that inexperienced builders choose too short anchors, on which it is then impossible to screw nuts. The anchor embedded in the floor must be at least 7 cm above the finish surface in order to screw the toilet to it. Gaskets are required under all nuts so that the surface of the toilet does not crack.
2. The second option for securely fixing the toilet bowl on the surface during the overhaul of the toilet is installation on a wooden base. The main thing is that the board strictly matches the size of the base of the toilet bowl. When pouring the floor, the board is prepared by hammering nails into it. Then it is laid in the solution with nails down. After the screed has dried and the room has been finished, the toilet bowl, previously planted on a layer of epoxy resin, is screwed to the board using ordinary screws. Under them, rubber or polymer gaskets are also needed.

You can fix the toilet with a wall tank without screws, for one resin. True, with this method of fastening, it is first necessary to clean the surface of the tile so that the glue holds better. When using "epoxy" it is important to allow freshly installed plumbing to dry properly and gain a foothold on the floor surface.

Fixing the toilet to the wall

How to install the installation

Wall hung toilets are being used more and more. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame, which is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. The cistern and pipes of the toilet in this case are behind a false plasterboard wall. If the mounted plumbing has an open tank, then it will be possible to fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe should be inside the wall. The same anchors embedded in the wall or in the supporting frame will hold the structure.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

After fixing the toilet bowl on the wall or on the floor, it remains only to assemble the toilet bowl. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fixed, or a pipe is connected to it from a tank hung on the wall.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

It remains only to check if the toilet is working, and if there are any leaks. We turn on cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. Rinse and see if it flows from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you, for sure, can already handle it yourself.

1. Before buying plumbing, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the supply of the sewer riser, you must choose the same type as in the toilet that has worked out. Remember: no adapters will help to qualitatively connect the toilet bowl to the type of outlet that is not suitable for it.
2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet bowl for the final moment of repair: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
3. Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that ugly streaks and sticking of bolts are excluded.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation was successful

Do-it-yourself toilet installation - step by step instructions!

Learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands. Step by step instructions, tutorials, photos + videos and the best tips from professionals!

During a major overhaul or due to a failure of plumbing, it is most often necessary to replace the toilet bowl. In order for everything to go smoothly, you should take into account a number of features of this process and correctly approach the choice of a new toilet bowl. To carry out all the work, you can seek help from the plumbers of your housing office or from private craftsmen who will do all the necessary operations. However, installing a toilet bowl with your own hands will save a lot of money, and understanding the whole process will help you choose the best option and method of mounting.

A complete toilet replacement is part of a major overhaul and includes the following items:

1. - choose a new toilet according to the method of attachment and the method of draining;
2. - dismantle the old toilet;
3. - repair the room (replacement of lining, screed, sewer pipes, etc.);
4. - installation and connection of a new toilet bowl.

It is very important to make a choice and purchase a new toilet in advance. This takes into account a number of features and nuances.

Choosing a new toilet

According to their design, floor toilet bowls are divided into several types, differing in the shape of their main nodes.

So, there are the following models according to the shape of the outlet drain:

1. horizontal
2. oblique (at an angle of 45 degrees)
3. vertical

The shape of the bowl distinguish:

1. poppet
2. visor
3. funnel-shaped

The flush tank can be combined with the base of the toilet or mounted separately on the wall, raising it to a sufficient height, and sometimes to the ceiling.

Fixing toilets to the floor are also different. Basically, there are options with two and four direct attachment points, in addition, structures may come across in which special corners are attached to the floor, and the toilet itself is already attached to them.

Choosing a toilet should begin with the selection of the type of drain. If it is not intended to change the supply of the sewer pipe, then the same type of drain must be selected as was installed before. No adapters and pipes will be able to connect a toilet bowl with high quality, for example, with a direct outlet and a vertical one.

The way the tank is connected affects the cladding work in the toilet. After all, if a wall mounting method is chosen, then it will be necessary to prepare a place and anchors for installation.

Before you change the toilet, you should take into account the dimensions of the toilet so that the design after installation does not interfere with closing the door and installing the rest of the equipment, if all this is done in a combined bathroom.

Removing an old toilet

• Turn off the water supply to the drain tank. Drain all the water from it and unscrew the hose that goes to it. After that, you can unscrew the fasteners of the tank. Most likely, the bolts on which it is attached are rusted or stuck with deposits. In order to break them, you will need to hold the head of the bolt on one side with a screwdriver or open-end wrench, and on the other hand, unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. You can use WD-40 spray lubricant or some kerosene to soak the bolt. Then he will more easily succumb to efforts.
• After removing the tank, the fasteners of the toilet bowl are unscrewed. It can be nuts screwed onto an anchor or dowel.
• The next step is to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. In the houses of the old building, the drain was fixed with a cement coating. For work you will need a chisel and a hammer. Carefully prick the cement with a chisel, placing it across the coating in two places. Then you can shake the toilet with force until the drain turns and loosens. After that, without disconnecting the toilet, tilt it in order to drain all the remaining water from it.
• When the dismantling of the toilet is completed, the hole in the sewer pipe is closed with a cloth plug or a wooden plug. It should be remembered that the gases from the sewer are not only poisonous and smell unpleasant, but also flammable.

You can not stand on ceremony with the dismantling of the toilet, because it is unlikely to be reused. In this case, to facilitate work with chipping off the cement coating, it is better to beat off most of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer. In order to make it easier to scroll and loosen the drain after that, make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod or wooden stick as a lever.

If cast-iron drain pipes are laid in the apartment, it is best to change them all to plastic at the same time. The use of PVC pipes for sewerage greatly facilitates the process of operation and initial wiring, as well as connecting all drain points.

How to install a new toilet

• When all the finishing work has been done or the old toilet bowl has been dismantled, and the surface for the new one has been leveled and prepared, you can proceed with the installation. To do this, either a corrugated pipe is attached to the toilet drain for articulation with a sewer outlet pipe, or a rigid pipe. It is best when the toilet drain fits perfectly into the pipe outlet and without the use of corrugated pipes. In this case, it is only necessary to use a rubber seal with a border. When using rubber seals, the drain transition to the sewer inlet must not be sealed with cement.
• Water supply is being prepared. The easiest way is to use a flexible hose that is wound around the water supply tap and to the inlet to the tank. You should carefully select the required diameter of the fasteners at both ends of the hose. Thus, 1/8” pipe outlets are often used, but 3/4” pipe can also be installed.
• After connecting, you can proceed to fixing the toilet to the floor or wall. More details about connection methods will be discussed below.
• The toilet is being assembled. A tank is mounted on a fixed base or a pipe is connected from a hanging barrel fixed on the wall. After that, you can check the performance of the toilet bowl and tank settings. To do this, turn on the cold water supply and wait until the tank is full. With the help of the adjustment, you can adjust the level to which water will be drawn. Each locking mechanism or tank comes with instructions on how to set it up.
• The final step will be the attachment of the toilet seat. There are holes on the far upper part of the toilet bowl for its fastening, and bolt or anchor fasteners are included with the toilet seat.

Ways to fix the toilet bowl and their features

There are three main options for attaching the toilet to the floor:

1. reinforcement with anchors cast into the screed, or the use of dowels;
2. installation of a toilet bowl on a wooden base pre-mounted in the screed using screws;
3. fixing with epoxy.

What is the best way to fasten during the overhaul of the floor

If the toilet is being replaced during a major overhaul, then it is better to use the option with anchoring or with a prepared wooden base. In this embodiment, at the stage of forming a screed on the floor, anchors are placed on it strictly in accordance with the placement of the toilet bowl and holes for fastening. As a result, they should protrude about 5-6 cm above the surface. It is better to cut off the excess later than to face a problem when the anchor is not enough to fix the nut on it.

A wooden board (taffeta) is selected according to the size of the base of the toilet bowl. Nails are hammered into it in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. After that, turn the board over and install it in the place of the future location of the toilet. Concrete is poured into the screed along with taffeta along its upper edge. After that, you can install the toilet in place and secure with screws.

Fixing a toilet bowl to a tile

When fixing the toilet under the nuts for the anchors and on the dowels, it is imperative to put on rubber gaskets that will protect the toilet from cracking when tightened and prevent the formation of rusty drips on the ceramics. It is best to use nickel-plated bolts and anchors so that at the end of their service life they can still be easily unscrewed.

For installation on an already finished surface, for example, on a tiled floor, fastening with dowels or epoxy is better, so as not to spoil the appearance of the coating.

At the same time, holes are made under the dowels through the tile and screed for their installation, into which screws are screwed. It is important not to make holes too deep, so as not to damage the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, then it is best to pour a little sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. A rubber gasket must be put on the screw. The toilet itself is best placed on a cushion of sealant and then pressed down with screws.

You can do without the use of screws, dowels and anchors. To do this, it is enough to take epoxy resin and properly prepare the surface of the floor and the base of the toilet bowl. This option is best suited if the barrel is installed on the wall, because it is half the weight of the entire structure. First of all, you should walk with an abrasive stone or sandpaper on the floor surface so that later the epoxy resin will normally adhere to the surface. After that, a layer of several millimeters of glue is applied to the floor and the toilet. After setting everything in its place, you should wait for the glue to dry completely.

Hanging solutions

It is getting more and more popular. The wall-hung toilet is installed on the wall without fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to fix it, it is necessary to build a metal frame that is attached directly to the load-bearing wall, and already to it the toilet bowl itself in the event that it is supposed to hide the tank and pipes behind a plasterboard wall. In some cases, a hinged toilet with an open tank can be attached directly to the wall, but then it will be necessary to transfer the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is carried out using anchors mounted in a wall or frame.

How much will it cost to invite a specialist?

So, having familiarized yourself with the process of replacing the toilet bowl, you can compare do-it-yourself installation options and pay for the work of a plumber. On average, installing a toilet bowl costs from 400 to 1200 rubles, if you turn to private craftsmen. However, the cost of installation can increase significantly depending on the high cost of plumbing and the complexity of its installation.

Video: do-it-yourself toilet installation

Implementation involves: 1. Choosing and buying a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Surface preparation for fastening; 4. Installing a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of these points are interconnected, they can be said not to be separated.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You should read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result will be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude to the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and buying a toilet

Toilets are separated:

By appointment

- children's (small dimensions, decorated with various colors, the use is common in preschool institutions)
– for people with disabilities (handrails, armrests are added, they have a wide bowl, are adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- hanging
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By issue

- oblique (at an angle)
- horizontal (to the wall)
- vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
— hi-tech

According to body material

– san faience
- San Porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

By installing the tank

- hinged
- on the toilet
- hidden
Tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as a water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.

And finally in color

Here, as they say, "the taste and color ..." The color scheme presented on the market today anticipates all expectations, if you wish, you can even find gray Burmaline.

I will not dwell on all the parameters, we will consider the most important ones, in my opinion, for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl outlet, and the double tank drain mode.

Direction of outlet from the toilet

Look at how you have the sewer socket provided for the toilet, it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model, the release of which is most aligned with the socket, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving the free area of ​​​​the bathroom.
In the photo visually what I'm talking about:
Agree that in this case, a toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable, I would approach the wall by two hundred or three hundred millimeters, at least. Such situations I have met more than once, and not even two, I installed a “carriage and a small cart” for my activities. You will come to order, and there the toilet has already been bought, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is absolutely not possible to turn it into the position you need. The customer throws up his hands, they say - I did not even think. What to do in this case? Do not run to change him, in fact. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - a usable area.
But then, once you read the article, do not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when buying, unpack the box, and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities, both the tank and the toilet bowl.
Inspect the outlet of the toilet bowl, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller if the kit includes: seat, floor (wall) mount. If the equipment is without a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

In case of visual detection of marriage, refuse to buy, believe me it is very disappointing, after installing the device, state puddles gathering on the floor. Read all the work for a smark.
Here, buy a flexible eyeliner (hose) to connect to a water pipe. If you do not have a faucet that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend that you purchase and install it.

toilet cistern

Basically, cisterns come with a toilet bowl, I think you yourself decide which option is most suitable for you - mounted, either mounted on a toilet bowl, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the descent of water. I don’t see the point in explaining when what displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The economy of water consumption is evident.

Removing an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it is a burden to do without it for a long time, therefore it is advisable to start this work in the morning, in order to have time if it is necessary to purchase any part, the stores then work up to a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing- make sure that the water supply is turned off, unscrew the eyeliner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On the toilets, the compact can not be removed, but as it is assembled, we will send it to the trash. We examine the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the toilet outlet is usually embedded with concrete, make sure that there are no cracks, if they are, then dismantle with caution.

We unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more often) and try to loosen it. We can’t loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of the hammer in close proximity to the bell, the blows can’t be said to be strong, but it’s not good to be liberal here.
We split it, removed the pot, we take out all this household. Sweep out the bathroom to avoid injury by fragments of faience.

Second step- chasing a cast-iron bell, that is, we remove the remains of the neck from it and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Having put on goggles, we get rid of foreign materials without cunning manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly the inner surface of the socket is cleaned, the less likely it is to leak in this place during the operation of a newly installed toilet bowl.
We are aiming for the following result:

But what if we are waiting for such a - "surprise" - an additional get up? And it is necessary to remove it, well, “blood from the nose”, but we are pursuing the goal - installing the toilet bowl professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I will say right away, tune in to sweat and get nervous. But ... the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.

Attention

In no case do we grab the hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and it easily bursts from blows in any other place, but not where we would like it. Violation of this rule is fraught with costly and time-consuming problems.

To help, we take a puncher with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “hollow-drill” mode, we drill as many holes as possible around the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the tee socket and the pipe - the insert.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow to drill freely, in this case we cut off the grinder in close proximity to the socket, but remember: cutting off the possibility of loosening, so to speak, therefore, we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill and burn.

Burning is appropriate if the cavity was minted with a cable, or filled with sulfur, if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.

Before proceeding with burning, we ensure sufficient ventilation of the room and the absence of flammable agents and materials in the vicinity. The video will show you how it's done:

If it doesn't help, then there's only one way to get rid of this fucking stickman: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder), or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the stem at the very socket, visually find a thin place of the “remainder” and aim precisely at it. We put a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying along the entire length of the “remainder”, that is, there, in depth. You can cut out a fragment of the type - a scarf, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then by tapping with a hammer we tear off the remaining piece from our "familiar" place. If there are further difficulties with the removal, you can still make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the chasing behind.

Guys, if someone got into such difficulties, but there are no skills to use the grinder, then here is a link to the photo gallery, I found it on the Internet, everything is step by step:
Dismantling the cast-iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And we are waiting next step.

Surface preparation for mounting

The toilet was installed on a solid surface - excellent, but we will consider the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor, in the old days it was on it that the toilet bowl was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it has rotted, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, in general, you will deal with this issue. Remove the taffeta, clean the freed cavity. Involved tool to the side.

We knead the solution from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part of cement to four parts of sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part of cement to three parts of sand, we are pursuing the goal - faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution, leveling it with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait until it sets, it takes up to three days, and the pot is needed almost hourly.
Each apartment has a stove, whether it be electric or gas, we take a baking sheet out of the oven and put it on top of the cemented place.

Broom handy? We take out the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next step.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close as possible to the sewer, and with minimal use of intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This does not always work out, just below I will post pictures of fittings that you can “play with”. In the meantime, consider the connection directly.
We will connect the pipe, which is in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or simply with water, put it on the neck of the outlet, put a mark on the outlet, to what depth the pipe sat down and remove it.
We put the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using our imagination, draw the trajectory of the alignment of the outlet of the toilet and the inlet sewer. Moving further or moving the device closer, we achieve the best comparability - actual at - the socket at an angle. Have you achieved? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without hitting the wall.
We take a tape measure and start resting deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was set from the fitting of the pipe on the neck and there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the place of the cut. Everything, the connecting part is ready.

Now we need a transition cuff marked 110 * 123, we coat it on the outside, and the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer, hammer the cuff into the socket.
There is also such a moment: before smearing, put the cuff in place and make sure that it fits, it happens that you need to cut a small fragment out of it, it won’t fit in full size. If there is a place to be, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the bell.
Further: we coat with sealant the cuff driven into the tee from the inside, we press the pipe, until it stops. Lubricate the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All pots are in place.

I promised a snapshot of the parts used for misalignment, this is how they look:

If it is impossible to do without this, then legs in hand and in a specialized store selling plumbing. Corrugated pipes for the toilet are also on sale, they are reinforced and not reinforced, if any one suits you, please use it, but this is not an ideal connection option.

At the beginning of the article, I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it onto the outlet of the water pipe for the tank, if not, then now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints, if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it at this stage. We achieve tightness.

Let's move on to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

There is an instruction with the new toilet, study and complete the tank in accordance with it, if the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure that they are tightened, tighten if necessary. Especially do not be zealous, all the same, you are dealing with plastic.

I will not dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components of various manufacturers differ slightly from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drain device (for some, it is dual-mode and adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, collect according to the instructions. I’ll just give you one point: there is a gasket at the junction of the tank with the toilet, and so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when it’s impossible to do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially, we do not smear. We throw on the tank and pull it to the toilet with the fastening bolts provided for this, tighten it alternately, with a uniform effort.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail the configuration of various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible hose, pulling the hose fitting on the tank inlet device, hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent touching of the reinforcement elements, both among themselves and with the walls of the tank.

Open the faucet and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and the float are regulated, with the help of simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float blocks the water until it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the shutter button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the joints:
- flexible piping with inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- a toilet tank through a gasket
— bolts of fastening of a tank to a toilet bowl by means of cone laying
- outlet (neck) of the toilet bowl with a branch pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- branch pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with a cuff
— cuffs with a socket of a sewer tee
- toilet and pan

With a conscientious attitude to the implementation of the above steps, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If you have visually established the presence of leaks, gathering puddles, then it is natural to eliminate them.

Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many “gurus” of plumbing installation, advise you not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with a sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of smearing everything or “hand-to-handling” - nonsense. The explanation is simple - when it is smeared, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its place.
So, if a leak is found from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface of the gasket to the toilet bowl and the gasket itself. Spread one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put in place, lightly press down around the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to "set" - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer on top of the gasket and gently put the tank in its place, pull it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin trickle of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Looking inside the tank, we make sure that the water edge does not reach the upper border of the overflow tube, if it is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
- the cone gasket located under the clamping nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
- the saddle is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the places where the seat gasket fits are rough, smearing the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- a crack in the seat body;
- uneven fit of the "pear" to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.

Well, let's not talk about sad things, they were pressured, everything is in order with us. It remains only the task of fixing our toilet to the floor.

This will have to be done after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before that, we naturally use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
We block the water, lower the tank, slightly raise the toilet bowl, pull out the baking sheet. We expose the toilet, if inadvertently displaced, we mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We remove the toilet bowl to the side, drill holes with a puncher, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and fasten them. We pull without applying much effort.

In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is a perfect piece of linoleum.
In order to avoid unsanitary conditions - the accumulation of small particles of debris, we coat the place where the toilet bowl fits the floor around the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Tools used for installation:

So, theoretically, we have coped with the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of ​​the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
- adjustable wrench (Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
- perforator with a drill 5-6 mm
- a grinder, who does not have the skills to use, we replace with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape

Perhaps the following articles will be useful for the successful completion of the described work:

Well, that's all, dear reader, is there a desire to install the toilet yourself? I told you how the installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with, maybe it’s easier to pay a third of the cost of a pot to a plumber, and calmly drink beer yourself while watching TV ??
And then I look at the darkness of articles on the Internet, like - install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple ... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should do their own thing, and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

There were any questions, or there is something to supplement the article, you are welcome in the comments column.
I recommend that guests subscribe to receive new blog articles, the form will open when scrolling the page to the very bottom, I assure you there will be more useful and interesting information.
And that's all for me today, success in installation, with respect

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When a property owner decides to change plumbing, he will not be hindered by knowing how to properly install a toilet in a private house or apartment. The work of dismantling and installing a new plumbing fixture requires special responsibility, since the slightest omission can lead to big troubles - leaks and, as a result, flooding of one's own home and neighbors' apartments.

What you need to know when buying a toilet

The main criteria that you should pay attention to when choosing a plumbing fixture are not only its model, brand and color, but also the dimensions (for more details: "What are the sizes of the toilet bowl - standard dimensions, options"). It is necessary to measure the distance from the sewer drain to the door to the toilet room before buying a toilet, and the result must be divided by 2. The result will be
the maximum size of the device that can be installed in this room.

The color and shape of the toilet bowl is chosen in accordance with the interior solution of the toilet room, it should match the design to the maximum. When purchasing plumbing, they certainly check its integrity and completeness. The existing mechanisms in it should work easily, without making creaking sounds.

Materials and tools for installing a toilet

When the toilet is properly installed with your own hands, use the following materials and tools:

• perforator or impact drill;
• marker or pencil;
• wrench;
• drills (drills) for metal by 8 or 10 millimeters, depending on the diameter of the dowels with which the device will be attached to the floor;
• hammer;
• drills for tiles, if the flooring is finished with it;
• spanners;
• silicate sealant;
• Phillips screwdrivers;
• masking tape;
• rubber cuff measuring 123x100 millimeters (required when attaching the toilet bowl to a cast-iron socket);
• flexible water supply (when replacing the old one);
• cuff - depending on the toilet, a straight, flexible or eccentric is selected;
• kit for fastening the plumbing fixture to the base. See also: "Do-it-yourself toilet installation - detailed instructions for different types of toilet bowls".

Toilet installation rules

The fastest and easiest way to connect the toilet to the sewer pipe is to use a corrugated cuff. But at the same time, it is not possible to place the device as close as possible to the pipe socket. You need to know how to put corrugation on the toiletso that everything works without leaks. This circumstance is important when the toilet room is small.

When the toilet outlet and the sewer socket are located on the same axis, experts recommend using a straight cuff, but if on different axes, an eccentric cuff, such as in the photo.

The rules for installing a toilet bowl suggest that when purchasing a flexible water supply, its length is taken into account, which should be equal to the distance from the connection point of the filling mechanism to the cold water pipeline. To this value add 15-20 centimeters.

It is necessary to pay attention to the thread diameter (1/2 or 3/8 inch) and the type of connection (external/internal). Also, do not forget about buying a fum tape. In the process of dismantling the toilet, the remaining water may pour out of it, so the presence of a floor cloth will not be superfluous.

Technology and stages of installation of the toilet

The toilet installation procedure includes the work of dismantling the old plumbing fixture. Before that, turn off the water and disconnect the flexible hose. Then, without fail, the water is drained from the device and the drain tank is disconnected. If necessary, you can use a hammer if the plumbing fixture is no longer useful. In this case, you need to be careful with the fragments, as they can get into the sewer pipe and cause a blockage.

After removing the water from the bowl, they begin to clean the socket of the cast-iron sewer. Rust, remnants of old sealant, dirt are removed from it. Then the transition cuff (123x110 mm) is lubricated with sealant and placed in a cast-iron socket.

In the event that, after dismantling the old appliance, a wooden board is visible under it, it is removed, and the resulting cavity is filled with cement mortar, which is leveled with a spatula relative to the floor level and allowed to dry for 20-30 minutes.

To mark holes for attaching plumbing to the floor with dowels, they take the device and the eccentric cuff and temporarily place it in the place where it will be located. Further, the toilet installation technology provides for marking the holes with a marker or pencil. When the holes are at an angle, then you need to drill them at an angle, and then insert dowels of the appropriate size into them.

Install the fittings of the drain tank, as they interpret the rules for installing the toilet bowl and the instructions (it must be included in the kit). Plastic nuts should be tightened by hand and very carefully so as not to damage the gasket and not overtighten the dowel. It is necessary that the moving elements of the valve mechanism do not come into contact with the walls of the tank. The gasket is treated with a sealant.

The eccentric cuff is inserted into the adapter cuff with the petal part and fixed to the sealant in the cast-iron socket. The outlet of the bowl is inserted to the very base into the eccentric cuff, having previously treated it with a sealant. The fastenings of the holes must match, for which the cuff should be rotated carefully and evenly. Further, the main thing is not to overtighten the bowl to the floor, using screws and plastic washers.

It will help to properly mount the plumbing installation diagram of the toilet. In the next step, the bowl is placed on the drain tank. But before that, the gasket is attached to the bowl with a sealant. The tank is carefully fixed, preventing the gasket from moving.

Then the screws are evenly tightened, the lid, the seat, the flush mechanism, and the plumbing to the toilet are installed in the correct sequence. Produce a test flush, if necessary, adjust the mechanism.

If everything is done in accordance with the instructions, there can be no leaks.

The toilet has long been an integral feature of a well-appointed apartment or house. Gone are the "latrines". Now in construction supermarkets and online stores a huge range of plumbing devices is offered for purchase: traditional compact toilets, devices with hidden tanks, hanging, corner and even children's toilets. In principle, the installation of any equipment can be done by hand.

Do I need to install the toilet myself?

Of course, you can call a specialist from any service organization you like to install the toilet, whether it is a management company or an office offering installation services on the principles of outsourcing. However (at least for the most common models of toilet bowls), the installation of such equipment does not present any particular problems and is quite accessible after studying a small step-by-step instruction. In addition, understanding all the intricacies of installing toilets will help you to follow the quality of the work of the involved specialists, and will allow you to detect hidden defects and shortcomings in the services provided.

Types of toilets

In large supermarkets, showcases with toilet bowls sometimes occupy several tens of linear meters. However, with all the variety of assortment, almost all designs of toilet bowls are no different from each other. A modern toilet bowl consists of several main parts.

1. Actually bowls. It can be of various shapes (with or without a shelf), with different flushing technologies (straight or circular), with different designs of its attachment to load-bearing bases (floor, hanging or corner), with various additional features (for example, with a built-in bidet and even with heating).
2. The sewage from the toilet, together with the water from the flush tank, enters the sewer pipe, which can also connect the toilet bowl and the sewer line with various configurations of pipes and adapters.
3. Waste water accumulates in cistern. This device can also have various installation options (attached directly to the toilet bowl or placed in a hidden way behind decorative partitions).

Typically, plumbing fixtures are supplied with instructions for installation and operation. But, nevertheless, some important nuances of the installation of such equipment are not described in the documents.

If you do not install plumbing equipment in a new building, then the first step in your work will be the dismantling of old equipment.

We remove the old toilet ourselves

Dismantling works look easier than installation of equipment, but some rules must be observed during their implementation.

Step 1. Thoroughly clean the toilet and surrounding area with disinfectants. You can use the cheapest, for example, chlorine-containing ("Whiteness"). Before starting work, put on protective gloves, and possibly goggles. Prepare a basin and rags to remove excess water.

Step 2. Shut off the water in the tank. On single-lever shut-off valves, when closing the pipeline, the lever must be turned perpendicular to the pipe. Drain the remaining water from the toilet bowl.

Step 3. Disconnect the water supply hose. Depending on the model of your equipment, the hose may fit the tank from the bottom, side or top. Use an adjustable wrench or wrench.

Step 4. We unscrew the screws with which the toilet is fixed to the floor. In older houses, the bolts can get stuck, so you have to cut them off or even break the toilet bowl. You may have to break out the toilet from the attachment to the cast iron sewer pipe. Stock up on patience and pliers. If you intend to leave the old tile on the floor, then be very careful - sharp and heavy fragments of the toilet bowl and excessive force when unscrewing the bolts can damage the ceramics.

Step 5. If your old toilet is attached to a plastic sewer pipe, then it will be very easy to dismantle it. Pull the toilet towards you and pull the toilet outlet out of the sewer contact pipe.

Now you have access to the installation site of the toilet. Let's skip the moment of installing a plastic sewer (noting that the location of the inlet of the sewer pipe under the toilet must correspond to the toilet outlet pipe), let's proceed immediately to installing a new plumbing fixture.

How to mount a compact toilet with your own hands

To install a standard toilet-compact, consisting of a bowl and a drain tank, we carry out the operations in the following sequence.

Step 1. We check the condition of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe. We clean it if necessary. To prevent the spread of odors, close the mouth with a rag or plastic wrap.

Step 2. We place the toilet on the floor. If there is some distance left from the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer neck, then we measure it and buy a corrugated pipe of a suitable size.

Step 3. Complete with a toilet bowl there can be a "heel" - a soft lining under the base. If it is not there, then you can make the lining yourself, for example, from an unnecessary piece of thin linoleum, cutting it along the contour of the base.

Step 4. We carefully place the compact toilet in the place of its future location, check the symmetry of the location relative to the walls, the distance to furniture, to the outlet neck of the sewer pipeline.

Step 5. We mark on the floor the location of the contour of the base of the toilet bowl-compact and the location of future holes in the floor for the fixing screws.

Step 6. We move the toilet-compact to the side and start drilling holes.

• In case you have tiles already installed on the floor, then its upper layer is drilled with a specialized drill without perforation. Next, the hole is deepened with a percussion drill.
• If the toilet is installed on a wooden surface- holes are formed with a conventional drill for wood.
• If you have a toilet linoleum, then the hole can be cut with a sharp knife until it is firmly overlapped.

Step 7. We install dowels in the drilled holes.

Step 8. We place the base of the toilet on the seat and twist the screws into the dowels. Around the perimeter, the base of the toilet bowl can be treated with a sealant in order to prevent the penetration of moisture.

Step 9. We remove a plug from a rag or polyethylene from the neck of the sewer pipeline and connect the toilet outlet and the sewer to each other. The junction of the corrugated hose and the sewer pipe is also treated with sealant.

We connect the tank to the toilet-compact

There are models of compact toilets in which the flush tank is a separate element. In order to mount the tank, you must perform the following operations.

Step 1. We select bolts for fastening the drain tank. It is possible that the bolts supplied with the equipment are not protected from corrosion, so it is better to use bolts with an anti-corrosion coating (galvanized) or made of stainless steel. There must also be at least two sealing washers per bolt. We twist the whole structure. The sealing washers will also prevent the ceramics of the toilet bowl from being damaged by the bolts.

Step 2. We connect a flexible underwater hose. First, the fixing nuts are baited and tightened by hand, and then with a wrench or adjustable wrench. Between the tank pipe and the hose and between the hose and the water outlet, we insert silicone seals or use a fum tape.

Important! After completing the installation of the toilet bowl and cistern, wait about six hours for the sealant on the floor to completely harden.

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

The following types of hidden cisterns for toilet bowls are most common on the market: mounted or attached. Depending on the model, select the installation instructions.

We install a hidden type tank for an attached toilet bowl

1. We install the toilet bowl on the floor, as described above.
2. In the prepared niche we mount the drain tank. Usually it is bolted, as in a conventional compact toilet.
3. We install a frame for a decorative wall. Usually this is a metal profile on which drywall sheets are fixed. From above, the drywall is sheathed with tiles.
   When installing drywall sheets, we provide an opening for the output of the flush control system. When mounting a barrel with a fixed button, carefully calculate the distance from the body of the tank to the surface of the future decorative wall. Usually such dimensions are indicated in the instruction drawing. In addition, in the decorative wall, it is necessary to provide for the placement of an inspection hole for servicing a hidden tank.
4. We display the control panel on the wall surface, carry out the finishing of the decorative wall.

We install a hanging toilet with a hidden bull

Installing such a design gives you a profitable chance to redevelop the bathroom space, use its area more rationally. Installation of a suspended toilet bowl with a hidden cistern is carried out with the creation of an additional wall that will hide all engineering communications. We act in the following sequence.

Step 1. We create a project of the future bathroom. The hidden cistern has a certain thickness, which must be taken into account when designing a new wall. It may have a control system (button), which is either directly attached to the tank body, or carried out for some distance.

In addition, when designing the load-bearing structures of the future wall, it is also necessary to provide for the creation of a power frame that will support the hanging toilet. Here you can not do with a thin aluminum profile, which is used for the installation of plasterboard partitions. The power structure is welded from a metal corner. But usually the metal structure for hanging the toilet is already included with the equipment. This finished metal structure is called an installation. Fonts are attached to it, on which the toilet bowl will subsequently be mounted.

Step 2. After drawing up the project, we begin welding work on the formation of the support frame and erect the frame from the profile under the plasterboard wall, or install the finished frame. The frame must have voids for the installation of sewer pipes.

Step 3. We lay sewer pipes, bringing the inlet neck to the level of the outlet pipe of the hanging toilet bowl. Do not forget that sewer pipes must have a certain slope during installation.

Step 4. We place a hidden tank in the space behind the future wall. We connect it to the toilet drain pipe. If the drain control button is located directly on the tank, make sure that its outer vertical surface goes beyond the level of the future decorative lining of the plasterboard wall. We connect the inlet hose to the drain tank. Then we connect the "draft" hanging toilet and the hidden tank by putting on and fixing the toilet on the pins and connecting the pipelines for the delivery of water and drain. Do not forget to check the performance of the entire structure, the strength of its fastening before the frame is sewn with drywall.

Step 5. Remove the hanging toilet from the pins. We install drywall sheets. Usually they are simply screwed with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads to the profile. We form a hole for the tank drain control button. We make holes for the fonts for attaching the toilet bowl, for the pipe for supplying water and draining sewage into the sewer. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are puttied. To facilitate the formation of holes, the wall-mounted toilet comes with a special template, on which all the main contours are indicated.

Step 6.At the final stage of work, a finishing coating, for example, a tile, is laid on the walls.

Prices for a toilet with a hidden cistern

toilet bowl with concealed cistern concealed cistern

Mounting a toilet on a pedestal

As mentioned above, toilet bowls have a different configuration of the exhaust pipe. With a horizontal or inclined outlet of the toilet, the inlet sewer pipe is mounted flush with the base of the toilet bowl, its inlet pipe is directed horizontally or beveled upwards.

However, there are also models of toilet bowls with direct release. In them, the exhaust pipe is directed vertically downwards. Due to this configuration, the sewer inlet must be lower than the base of the toilet. This design of sewer networks is not available in all homes. But what if you like this toilet model more than others?

There is a way out - installing the toilet on a pedestal (this elevation can also be called a podium). A number of works need to be done.

1. Lay the sewer line. Depending on what its slope will be before entering the collector or another pipe, the height of the pedestal is calculated and, accordingly, the level of the toilet base.
2. After obtaining the required dimensions, we proceed to the construction of the pedestal. It must be installed on a solid, preferably concrete base. However, the downpipe of a toilet bowl of this design can be located in the gap between the finishing and the rough wooden floor. When a toilet with a direct outlet is located on a wooden base, sewer networks must be laid up to the finishing floor.
3. On a concrete base, the pedestal can be built with bricks. Form a rectangle with a hole for the inlet of the receiving sewer pipe. Bricks can be laid out directly in a row, to each other, filling the entire internal space of the pedestal, leaving a niche for the sewer pipeline.
4. From above, the brick pedestal is plastered and covered with a top coat, for example, tiles.
5. Next, we do with direct release in the same way as described in the section on installing a conventional floor-mounted toilet.

Installing a corner toilet

There are models of toilet bowls that are installed in a corner. It differs from the classic floor or hanging only in that its drain tank has a rear wall in the form of a triangle. It is due to this configuration that the structure can be installed in a corner.

The installation technology of a corner toilet is, in principle, no different from the installation of a “straight” toilet bowl of the corresponding design. The only thing that can cause some difficulty when installing a corner toilet is the supply of a sewer inlet pipe. It must be mounted in such a way as to ensure the drainage of wastewater, possibly with a turn of the pipeline.

In addition, the design of concealed cistern toilets with a straight back also allows them to be installed in a corner. To do this, a wall is mounted diagonally in the corner of the room, behind which a hidden hanging tank is installed. Such a design can be located both at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls, forming an isosceles triangle, and at other angles, forming the space of the toilet according to your wishes.

To learn more about the technology of self-installation of the toilet, watch the training video.

Video - Do-it-yourself toilet installation