How to install a bath with your own hands: the sequence and subtleties of the work. How to fix a bath: step by step instructions, simple ways, tips from the masters How to install a bath in an apartment

The bathroom is an essential attribute of a modern person. Here you can not only cleanse your body of the dirt accumulated during the day, but also relax after work, plunging into your thoughts for a while. That is why it is worth taking very seriously the choice of a bath, as well as its installation, since not only the appearance of the bathroom, but also the morale of the homeowners will depend on these two factors.

Do not forget about savings, since installing such a product is a costly business, and sometimes it is better to do all the work yourself.

The very first step in replacing a bathtub is choosing the type that will be installed. It is from the choice of material from which the product is made that the durability, appearance and practicality of use will depend. Especially if a boiler is installed as a heater. At the moment, the market offers several types of baths, which differ in material:

1. Steel- an ideal option for those who want to save as much as possible, but due to their cheapness, it has a number of disadvantages: metal deformation (deflections) under weight, noise when water is collected. This type is quite easy to install, since a man of average build can handle the weight of the product. To reduce the likelihood of deformation and damage to the enamel during operation, you need to choose the bath itself of such dimensions that it contacts and is attached to three walls.

Steel baths have a high level of heat transfer. In order to fill a bath of a standard volume, you need about 50 liters of water with a temperature of at least 80 degrees. The only plus is that the metal heats up quickly.

2. Cast iron- With proper use and care, it can last for several generations. It is unrealistic to cope with the weight of the product yourself, so several people will have to deal with the installation. If a steel bath can be connected to an already installed siphon, then a cast-iron product can break part of the communications due to one awkward movement. Another disadvantage is the level adjustment of the installed product. If the bathtub is equipped with legs of fixed sizes, you will have to take a lot of trouble with its leveling. Adjustable legs in cast iron baths can also be found, but they are rather flimsy and can break with a certain amount of force.

In order to take a cast-iron bath, you need about 100 liters of hot water. The metal heats up for a very long time and quickly gives off heat. From the point of view of economy, one reception will cost one and a half times more than in a steel bath.

3. Acrylic bath- light, easy to install, durable (15-20 years). You will need at least two people to install. The product does not tolerate aggressive detergents and is intended only for bathing (you can forget about a large wash with old ones - with good methods). At a price, such bathtubs are cheaper than cast-iron ones, but they can still hit your pocket great.

The most economical type of bathroom in terms of operation for its intended purpose. The material gives off heat very slowly and warms up quickly, and 50 liters of hot water with a temperature of 40 degrees is enough for one dose.

Acrylic bathtubs have recently become very popular, despite the fact that their price sometimes exceeds all possible limits. Such popularity is due to the presence of a large assortment, as well as the simplicity of its installation. Also, the buyer can choose not only a classic rectangular bowl, but also corner options, which expands the possibilities in interior decoration.

Preparing the bathroom for installation

Wall covering

It is best to install the bathtub directly during the renovation of the room, but before the cladding is done. Since at this moment you can achieve maximum aesthetic and practical qualities, and during the laying of tiles, you can effectively process all the cracks that can let water through and create an ideal environment for the development of mold and bacteria.

If we are only talking about replacing the bath itself, you should make sure that the height of the product is 1.5-2 cm higher than the previous one. That part of the tile with which the old container came into contact did not burn out, and could also accumulate a fair amount of dirt on its surface and wash it out, in most cases it is simply unrealistic.

Floor work

Before installing the bathtub, you need to make sure once again that the floor is perfectly flat and solid, especially when it comes to installing a cast-iron bathtub, which is heavy even when empty. Tile under a heavy bath should be laid using the indentation method, which allows you to get rid of voids under the material. It is because of them that the tile can crack.

To distribute the load that the bath will create when filled, you can use wooden logs. The most suitable tree is larch. Logs are pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial agents, then impregnated with drying oil or PVA putty.

Such logs will distribute the load and solve the issue of height. By the way, the latter will help solve not only the problem of appearance, but also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper knee, which prevents the penetration of sewage waste in the opposite direction. Also, due to the additional rise of the bath, less waste in the form of hair, etc. will accumulate in the siphon.

Drain valve

When choosing a drain fitting, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Material. Products made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyisopropylene are on the market. The second option is more durable, but it will also cost more, but a number of advantages fully pays for the product:

the material is several times harder than PVC, which significantly reduces the likelihood of mechanical damage during installation of the bath;
does not lose its strength characteristics over time;
has a smoother surface, which reduces the likelihood of contamination;
has a higher efficiency, since the friction of water on the pipe walls is much less.

2. Drain. Most drains on the market come from China and use a bolt during the installation process. Over time, these bolts corrode, rust and oxidize regardless of the material. Even if you separately purchase a stainless steel bolt, as a result of its contact with the grid, a soldering is formed, which will reduce the likelihood of successful disassembly during repairs to zero.

3. Mesh drain. The most economical option is a grid consisting of two crossbars forming a cross. This look is the perfect hair catcher. A more practical look in which round holes are located around the perimeter. The most expensive and reliable type - the holes in the grid are oblique, profiled.

4. Cork chain- it is advisable not to use those products that come with drain nets, but to purchase a separate one. The best option is to use a chain designed for fishing, and covered with a layer of paint on top. The latter protects against the negative effects of water.

5. Overflow pipe. While most old tubs use rigid tubing, it's best to use corrugated tubing, which has a larger capacity and diameter. These two indicators reduce the likelihood of water overflowing over the edge.

Bath dimensions - nuances

The dimensions of the bath will directly depend on the size of the room where the product will be located, as well as on those who will use it. Before buying the container itself, it is necessary to carefully measure the place where it will be located, and also take into account the availability of additional equipment, such as washing machines, dryers and boilers. It is worth remembering that bathtubs that are identical in appearance can have a different volume.

The most common sizes for different types of baths:

1. Steel: length 150-180 cm, height 65 cm, width 70-85 cm.

2. Cast iron are available in several standardized sizes:

small-sized: length - 120-130 cm, width 70 cm;
European standard: length 140-150 cm, width 70 cm;
large-sized: length 170-180 cm, width 70-85 cm.

3. Acrylic bathtubs are available on the market in the widest range, from 120 to 190 cm in length and 70 to 170 cm in width.

Small-sized bathtubs are suitable for small spaces, but the process of bathing does not cause any pleasure at all. Also, do not count on a lower cost, since compactness is a need and in order to satisfy it, you need to spend a little money.

If the bathroom is quite spacious, it is worth stopping at a cast-iron or acrylic product. It is the assortment of the latter that is the most diverse: angular, with decorative trim, rectangular, square, polygonal, etc.

When you do not want to spend money on an acrylic bath, you can purchase a plastic product. As a rule, they are purchased from Chinese manufacturers and are not of particular quality, and installation requires additional effort and observance of subtleties.

Do-it-yourself bath installation: a step-by-step guide

Installation of all types of baths is carried out in several stages, but special tools and materials may be required in the process.

The rule is a flat bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bath. As such a tool, you can use any long and even bar on which the level is placed.
Fork wrench - necessary for tightening drain mechanisms, which are most often made of plastic.
Rubber mallet - can be useful when shrinking the legs of the tub. The use of metal products may choose to deform the surface of the product, as well as damage the enamel.

Additional materials: silicone-based sealant and "rag" electrical tape. The latter is needed only when installing an acrylic bath.

Bathtub leveling and sewer connection

The leveling of the bathtub is carried out using a level, and the basic principle is to raise the lowered part, and not vice versa, since the height of the installed product is important to us.

A complete connection to the sewer is carried out after the complete installation of the bath, as the siphon can be damaged in the process. When choosing a drain fitting, first of all, you need to pay attention to the width of the outlet pipe. With its sufficient width, you can do without a cuff, and simply fill the gap with silicone or silicone-based sealant. There are two ways to level the bathtub: diagonally and along the sides.

In the first case, you need to put the rule on opposite corners, and set the level from above. After the level shows a satisfactory result, it is necessary to shift the rule to other angles and repeat the twisting of the legs. At the end, repeat the procedure again.

In the second case, the level is placed on the side of the bathroom, the legs of one side are adjusted, then we move on to the other. Alignment along the sides is carried out several times, since the side opposite to the measured one can go astray. The method of leveling along the sides is more laborious, and especially in cases where the floor has a number of irregularities.

We prepare the sewer

First you need to make sure that the sewer pipe pipe and the pipe itself are completely dry. This will achieve maximum sealing when connected. It is best to turn off the water supply throughout the housing, and if possible, completely stop the water supply at the riser. The main thing is not to forget to warn the neighbors that there will be no water on the span for several hours. Next, make sure that there is no moisture not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the pipe. To do this, you can use a regular cosmetic hair dryer.

After the workplace is prepared, it's time to move on to the actual installation. Let's start with a bathtub made of acrylic.

Installing an acrylic bath

In the kit of each such product there are special guides, on which the legs are subsequently attached. They are installed across the tub tank. The legs are screwed into the lodgements (the correct name of the guides).

The guides themselves are attached to the bathroom using special screws, which can also be found in the kit. So that the self-tapping screws do not damage the integrity of the shell, you need to pre-drill holes for them. It is necessary to use a drill with a limiter, and the depth of the hole should not exceed 3/4 of the length of the self-tapping screw.

After the guides are installed, you need to turn the bath on its side and connect the drain fittings. Before installing it, all gaskets that will be used must be treated with silicone. Remember that the drain gasket is installed only from the outside! Otherwise, get ready to pay your neighbors to repair the ceiling.

All threaded connections must not be tightly tightened, as there is a possibility of damage to the structure during installation.

During installation, place the bath close to all walls, at the same time make sure that the bath outlet is connected to the sewer pipe. Next, level the bath using a rule (level) and seal the connection to the sewer with a sealant.

While the sealant is curing, use a fork wrench to tighten all screw connections that were in a semi-relaxed state.

When the sealant has completely hardened, check all joints for the possibility of leakage, and if there are none, you can treat the gaps between the bathroom and the walls with the same sealant.

Steel bath installation

A steel bath is installed similarly to an acrylic one. The only difference is in the way the legs are attached. They are fastened with bolts, studs or wedges. Tighten the bolts gradually and alternately. Do not immediately be zealous and twist them to the limit, as in the future there may be a need for additional, fine adjustment.

To make the bathtub make a less loud sound when filling, you can place a piece of automotive rubber between the leg mount and the surface of the bathtub.

The subtleties of installing a cast-iron bath

Recall that cast iron products have simply incredible weight and a bathtub made from this material is no exception. It is desirable to carry out all work on connection and adjustment in the bathroom. Moving the product from room to room is fraught with unforeseen consequences in the form of damage to doorways and other interior elements.

Products with decorative legs deserve special attention. This type is selected specifically for the interior and the use of linings as the level is adjusted will nullify the entire aesthetic component. Decorative legs should be filed at the base, but this is a job for the masters of their craft.

For the installation of a drain, unlike the previous types, it is advisable not to turn the cast iron bathtub once again to one side. It will be enough to raise the front part so that additional space appears, and fix it in this state with the help of bars.

All work must be carried out very carefully and once again do not pull the bath.

Installing a plastic bath

We did not single out this type in a separate category, since plastic bathtubs are a cheaper substitute for acrylic products, and the installation process is almost identical. The only difference is the need to create an additional pillow, which will remove the load from the bottom of the product. The pillow can be made both from the same larch and from cement. Plastic bathtubs also require special care and careful operation. Otherwise, the need to replace the product will appear in 5-7 years. These products do not tolerate aggressive detergents.

Bathroom screen

There are a wide variety of screens for the bathroom. Moreover, you can not be limited to buying a finished product, but do everything with your own hands. Perhaps this approach will not be the most correct, but the most economical - for sure.

Installing a bath without the help of specialists is a rather difficult task, which not everyone can do. Here you need to have not only the ability to work with various tools, but also to know all the subtleties of the process. You should also be especially careful when working with cast iron products - they are heavy and you can easily damage your limbs during the transfer process.

Video lesson: Installing a bath. Important Points

If you doubt your abilities, invite specialists to help, who will perform all the work according to the standards and your desires. In addition, installation companies or firms are required to provide guarantees for the work performed, as well as for additional materials that were purchased directly through them.

Choosing and buying a bath is only part of the challenge in the noble cause of bathroom renovation. It is very important to properly install the bath, connect it to the drain and not damage the surrounding interior, especially if some of the finishing work has already been completed.

This task cannot be called simple and easy, but with certain skills, a suitable tool and knowledge of important nuances, even a novice master can install a bath with his own hands. When installing this bulky plumbing equipment, it is very important to take into account the features of its design and the material from which the bath is made.

Before you go to the store and buy a bath, you need to carry out preparatory work. First you need to dismantle and remove the old bath. And if there are no special problems with a steel or acrylic product, then you will have to work hard on the old cast-iron bathtub. Sometimes you just have to cut or break such a bath and take it out piece by piece.

Then you need to prepare the base. As with other types of work, dirt and irregularities should be repaired. In most cases, it is recommended to make a new cement-sand screed and wait for it to dry.

Then you need to prepare the tools and purchase the materials that will be needed for installation work:

screwdriver
a hammer;
grinder;
chisel;
cement;
mounting foam;
paint;
electrical tape;
sealant, etc.

Depending on the type of bathtub, you may also need brick, timber, plywood or other materials for the frame that supports the unit to finish it.

It is necessary to purchase a bath piping, drain fittings and other necessary items. For plastic sewer pipes, a drain corrugation with a diameter of 50 mm is used, and for cast iron pipes, a drain corrugation with a diameter of 40 mm is used.

Another important step is to inspect the sewer drain and eliminate the identified malfunctions. Be sure to eliminate any possibility of leaks, otherwise you will have to dismantle an already installed device over time, and this is a complex process. At this stage, you should also consider how to connect communications in order to install the bath correctly.

It is necessary to conveniently put a mixer with cold and hot water, as well as connect the sewer. To do this, attach an overflow funnel, siphon, tee, pipes, etc.

Together with the strapping kit, the manufacturer usually attaches instructions, following which you can easily connect all the components correctly without much difficulty. The assembled strapping is carefully coated with sealant at the joints.

How to install a cast iron bath on supports?

The large weight of the cast-iron bath gives it sufficient stability, so you can install it on legs, without additional support. After all the preparatory work has been completed, the bath should be moved to the installation site. Since a cast-iron bathtub weighs quite a lot, you will need at least one assistant.

In order not to accidentally damage furniture, finishes, openings and other objects during the transfer of a heavy and bulky bathtub, it is recommended to protect problem areas with shock-absorbing material in advance.

The cast-iron bathtub has a significant own weight, which allows it to be installed on supports in the form of legs without an additional base.

For correct installation, follow these steps:

Lay the bathtub on the floor sideways so that the bottom is facing the wall and the drain is directed towards the sewerage connection. So it will be more convenient to mount the siphon.
Install the supports securely on the side facing up.
Carefully turn the tub over to the other side.
Install the rest of the supports in the same way.
Put the bath on legs.
Using a level and adjusting bolts, level the bath so that a slight slope forms towards the drain.
Move the bath close to the wall.
Seal the remaining gap with mounting foam, you can also use tile adhesive.
Connect the corrugated drain to the installed piping, using a special gasket so that its cone is directed towards the piping.
Fix the connection with a special nut.

The force applied to tighten the bolts on the supports should be moderate so as not to damage the plastic base of this element. After the installation is completed, it is necessary to check the quality of the work performed. To do this, close the drain and fill the bath to the brim.

It is necessary to inspect the installation site of the overflow, as well as the connection of the bath body with the drain. The presence of leaks at this stage is most often caused by incorrect installation of the gasket. If leaks are not fixed, you should open the plug and observe the condition of the strapping.

For quick and accurate detection of leaks, hygroscopic material can be placed on the floor: paper towels, napkins, toilet paper, etc. For minor leaks, sometimes simply tightening the union nut is sufficient to ensure a secure connection.

The junction of the cast-iron bath to the wall must be fixed with cement mortar or adhesive for ceramic tiles, and then carefully sealed

You should also take care of grounding the device. This step is simple to complete: a piece of wire is attached to the body of the bath, and its other end is connected to the nearest metal structures. After that, you can start finishing work.

Installation of a cast-iron bath on a brick base

The brick base as a frame for the bath is used very widely. This is a reliable and affordable installation method that can be successfully used for both steel and cast iron models, as well as for acrylic models.

If the metal legs can deform over time, which fatally affects the position of the bath, then the brick perfectly withstands decades of operation.

There are two options for installing a bathtub on a brick base: two supports are made from it, as shown in the figure above, or one large brick base is prepared.

For cast iron bathtubs, it is recommended to use a combined installation method: first, the legs are screwed, then the structure is mounted on a brick base, in which openings are left for the legs. Given the severity of the bath itself, the base is most often made large, although sometimes two brick supports can be used.

The length and width of the brick base must match the dimensions of the bottom of the bath. To make brickwork, you will need about 20 bricks, as well as a sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 1:4.

The combined method is considered effective when installing cast iron and acrylic baths, in which the bottom of the bath is supported by brickwork and the legs are also used as a support.

Before starting work, markings are made on the floor indicating the dimensions and configuration of the bath. After laying in two bricks, another half-brick is added on the sides to form a recess for the bottom.

Sometimes a layer of mounting foam is applied to the brick support, on which a cast-iron bath is installed. The foam on top takes the exact shape of the bottom and securely links the device to the brick base.

Foam can also be used as a material that enhances the heat and sound insulation of the bath. To do this, the entire outer side of the bath is covered with mounting foam, or only the bottom and sides to the middle of their height.

The bottom and sides of a cast-iron or steel bath can be treated with mounting foam. This allows you to improve the sound insulation of the device, as well as increase its ability to retain heat.

After the bath is installed on the foam, it is necessary to connect it to the sewer, close the drain and fill it with water approximately to the middle so that the foam sags properly under the weight of the bath. At this stage, the position of the bath is adjusted horizontally so that it stands level, but with a slight slope towards the drain.

In this case, the external faucet of the bath should be about 1 cm higher than the edge located near the wall. This will help prevent water from overflowing onto the floor. After that, you need to open the drain and see how the water leaves. If this happens quickly, the bath is standing correctly.

If the water leaves too slowly, you should increase the layer of foam in the right places to level the structure. As with the installation of a cast-iron bathtub with legs, the edge adjacent to the wall must be treated with tile adhesive and sealant. All other components and connections should also be sealed.

Before finishing work, while there is free access to the tub piping, fill the tub with water and check the quality of the sealing of the sewer drain, as well as the correctness of the established slope

Features of installing a steel bath

To understand how to install a steel bath, you can use the principles described above for a cast iron structure. The main difference between a steel bath and a cast-iron counterpart is a much lower physical weight, which is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

Unlike a cast-iron bathtub, a steel structure is much easier to move in space: to bring in, turn over, etc. With some skill, this is not difficult to do on your own. However, if the cast-iron structure can quite confidently stand in the middle of the bathroom, relying only on the legs, then this option will not work with a light steel device.

Steel bathtubs must be fixed on three sides. On the fourth side, it is recommended to reinforce the bath with brickwork, which can then be tiled with ceramic tiles.

When installing, do not forget to leave access to communications and connections located under the bathroom!

If the cast-iron bath can simply be moved close to the tiled wall and the joint is sealed, then the steel bath should be installed even before the tile is laid. The optimal gap between the ends of the bath and the walls is five centimeters. This will allow you to freely put the device in the place allotted for it.

If the bathtub is provided with feet that can be adjusted in height, it is preferable to use short feet fitted with long adjustment bolts. In this case, it is desirable to use legs that are equipped with self-adhesive pads.

They prevent peeling of the enamel from the adjusting bolts, which can occur both during the adjustment process and during operation.

To install the legs of the steel bath, the device must be turned upside down. The surfaces to be joined are degreased with acetone or alcohol.

Here is an approximate order of work when installing a steel bath:

Lay the tub upside down with a soft material underneath, such as cardboard.
Try on paired supports to the installation sites: the first - two centimeters from the outlet, the second - as close as possible to the opposite edge on a flat bottom area.
If necessary, straighten the bearing channel for a snug fit of the support to the bottom of the bath.
Degrease the joints with acetone or alcohol (but not paint thinner!).
Remove the protective films from the overlays, put the supports in the places provided for them and press firmly (before the procedure, the overlay can be slightly warmed up with a building hair dryer).
Carefully drive the threaded studs into the plastic tips.
Using fixing nuts, screw the tips to the supports.
Install the bathtub in the place allotted for it with the legs down (do not hold on to the legs when carrying the bathtub, they can be deformed).
Preliminarily adjust the position of the bath using the adjusting bolts, observing the required slope.
Connect the mixer and sewer, seal the joints.
Using four narrow wedges driven between the walls and the end sides of the bath, fix the correct position of the device.
Paste the edges of the bath adjacent to the walls with paper tape.
Fill the gap between the walls and sides of the bathroom with polyurethane foam.
After the foam has dried, remove the wedges, protective tape and excess foam.
Run a supporting brick wall on the fourth side.
Finish the brickwork with tiles or install a decorative screen.

A steel bath strengthened in this way will be fixed quite reliably and will last for many years. Sometimes, to give the structure additional stability, it is installed not on legs, but on a sand cushion.

The outer side of the bottom and sides can be treated with mounting foam to reduce noise from water pouring into the bath and improve its ability to retain heat.

Rules for installing an acrylic bath

One of the advantages of acrylic structures is their low weight. This allows you to carry out all installation work alone. However, for such a bath, it is necessary to make a special frame frame that will hold the lightweight structure in the correct position.

It is best to purchase an acrylic bathtub, which comes with everything you need for a successful installation. This is a set of accessories that allow you to attach the bath to the wall: a frame frame, a drain-overflow, a decorative panel, a set for installing a decorative panel, etc. Different manufacturers complete their products in different ways, this point must be clarified when buying.

The practical experience of installing a bathtub on a factory frame is presented in the following video:

Custom shaped acrylic bathtubs are very popular today, which enhance the use of bathroom space or its appearance. However, the more complex the configuration of an acrylic bathtub, the more difficult it will be to install.

The frame-frame can be made independently, but novice craftsmen are still recommended to use factory products, as they are more reliable and of high quality. Yes, and the installation time, the presence of a finished frame will significantly reduce.

If there is no frame, the frame is made of brick, sometimes using timber and plywood as additional materials.

The frame of an acrylic bathtub can be made of timber and plywood. In this case, all wooden elements must be treated with a moisture-proof compound.

The frame is fixed in such a way that it is attached to a wall or other support. You should not simply connect the edge of the frame to the edge of the bath, because in this case the entire load will fall on the frame, which does not have additional reinforcement and may break. Sometimes a special plinth is made to fix the bath.

When working with a wooden frame, galvanized self-tapping screws for concrete and wood are used, as well as drying oil, which should be carefully treated with all wooden elements.

Vertical racks are installed at the corners of the bath, as well as along its sides at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The height of the vertical racks is determined as follows: measure the height of the side of the bath to the floor level, and then subtract the width of the upper and lower bases from this indicator.

The bath bowl should rise above the floor level by a distance sufficient to properly connect the drain to the sewer.

Acrylic custom-shaped bathtubs are very popular, but it is more difficult to install such structures, since you will have to make a frame that exactly repeats the outlines of the device.

If the bathtub has an uneven bottom, when installing it, it is necessary to make the base in such a way that each part of the bathtub has a reliable support of a suitable height

To install an acrylic bath using a homemade frame, the following plan is usually followed:

Brickwork is carried out on a concrete base, leaving a drain hole.
In accordance with the configuration and dimensions, the base of the frame is fixed on the floor with self-tapping screws from bars of the appropriate size and configuration.
100 mm bars are placed at the attachment points of the vertical racks.
Install vertical racks.
Mount the top base.
A sheet of plywood is laid on the top base.
Treat all wooden elements with drying oil and wait for the complete drying of the protective layer.
After a few days, the brick base is covered with a layer of mounting foam or cement mortar.
Install the bath on the prepared frame.
Using the building level, adjust the position of the bath.
The tub is filled with water so that the cement layer takes the shape of the bottom of the tub.
After the cement has dried, drain the water.
Install overflow.
Close the frame with a decorative screen.

Regardless of the type of construction, the chosen method and the materials used, in order to properly install the bathtub, care must be taken to ensure a reliable support and the correct slope of the structure. The second important point is the correct connection of communications and sealing of joints.

If you follow these principles, you can safely install the bath yourself!

Installing a bath with your own hands is a rather complicated process that requires certain skills and abilities. The bathtub is a large-sized item that needs careful handling: it is easy to damage the enamel, but it is almost impossible to restore it. The details of this process will be discussed in the article.

Model selection

If you plan to completely replace the bath, you must immediately make a choice. Only a competent approach will help you buy a plumbing fixture that will fully meet the needs of all residents of the apartment. Among the options on the market, the most popular products can be distinguished:

Steel- are affordable and easy to use. The peculiarity of this option is that, with certain skills, such a bath can be installed by one person. The only drawback is that the enamel of such a product deteriorates extremely quickly, so durability is out of the question. A steel bathtub is the ideal solution for small rooms where it is necessary to install the plumbing fixture as close to the wall as possible. This allows you to significantly protect yourself from deformations and the need for replacement in the future.
Cast iron- have a long service life and do not require special treatment. However, such baths are characterized by extremely high cost and complexity of installation, which is caused by significant weight. It is impossible to install a bathtub on a ready-made siphon, so you have to attach it to it in advance, which is quite difficult in cramped conditions of a small space.
Plastic- have become very popular recently and can boast of their environmental safety, durability and attractive appearance. Acrylic baths are more expensive than steel, but they are cheaper than cast iron.

It is necessary to work with such a plumbing device very carefully, since it is quite easy to damage the surface. According to other characteristics, the acrylic version is considered one of the most suitable for modern bathrooms.

Having decided on the material suitable for manufacturing, you can start choosing the size of the product. In the selection process, you should pay attention to the height of the side, the depth of the bowl, its length and width. The most suitable plumbing height can be determined by the average height of family members. In addition, be sure to consider the presence of children in the apartment. For adults, a height of 60-70 cm is considered optimal. If there are children, then it is better to choose smaller products.

Each type of bath has its own distinctive features in size:

Cast iron products are presented in two versions: miniature (120x70 cm) and European standard (140x70 cm).
The length of the bowl of a steel bath is 150-180 cm, and the width is 85 cm. Sometimes on the market you can find products made of economy type steel. The length of this model is 120 cm, which makes it an excellent option for a small room.
Acrylic bathtubs are very different, so there are a lot of options when choosing. On the market you can find models with long and short bowls. It all depends on the overall configuration of the product.

Bath can be wall or corner. A distinctive feature of wall products is that they are mounted as close as possible to one of the walls, while corner products are installed at the corners.

Wall baths come in a variety of shapes. The most popular is oval, which looks more stylish and elegant. As for corner baths, they are usually found with the correct geometry, less often in asymmetrical forms.

When choosing a bathtub for a city apartment, it is necessary to take into account the available space of the room, as well as the minimum set of furniture to be installed.

Finally, you need to decide on the manufacturer of plumbing equipment:

Cast iron bathtubs in the domestic plumbing market are represented by three major manufacturers: "Universal", Roca and Jacob Delafon.
Among the steel options, the products of domestic companies are in great demand, and among the foreign ones, the Spanish brand Roca and Portuguese products can be distinguished. BLB.
Acrylic bathtubs are presented in the greatest variety. On the market you can find products from European countries, Turkey and China. Among the most famous manufacturers, one can single out the Czech company Ravak, Polish Cersanit and Kolo, Spanish pool spa.

At the moment, quartz bathtubs are produced by only one company - the German brand Villeroy&Boch. The fact is that this company is both the developer of the technology itself and the creator of the material, therefore the right to produce products belongs only to it. For this reason, you do not need to believe if they try to sell you a quartz product from another manufacturer.

Bathroom preparation

Before installing this sanitary ware, it is necessary to prepare the entire room, which will allow for competent installation and guarantee the durability of the bath. First you need to pay attention to the walls. If the installation of a new bathtub is carried out simultaneously with the repair in the room, then the cladding should be carried out after installation. If repair work is not carried out, then the new plumbing device should be at least a few centimeters higher than the old one. Only in this case, you can achieve an attractive appearance, as well as make sure that there will be no gaps.

Particular attention must also be paid to the floor, which must be perfectly flat and reliable, without skirting boards, capable of supporting the weight of the product being installed.

Even an empty cast-iron bathtub weighs a lot, so the base for it must be prepared correctly. Not every tile is able to withstand such a load. It is considered ideal if the tile was laid on solid cement, this ensures maximum strength and reliability. If there is even a minimal void under the tile, then it will immediately crack from such pressure.

If it is not possible to carry out repairs on the flooring, you can simply lay two durable larch boards that will reduce pressure on the floor and tiles.

However, the wood must be pre-treated with fungicides, as the bathroom is a fairly humid room, so all materials should be protected from decay. With the help of a wooden pillow, you can not only get rid of problems with the load on the floor covering, but also solve issues related to the height of the bath.

Installation of different types of bathtubs

On the modern market, a large number of bathtubs are distinguished, which differ from each other in their characteristics, cost, appearance, performance properties and installation features. In order for the mounted plumbing device to last as long as possible and fully perform the functions assigned to it, it is necessary to take into account its variety during installation.

Acrylic

Before installing such a product, it is necessary to attach to it all the guides for the legs, which will be installed across - on special self-tapping screws. Each acrylic bath comes with a special instruction that explains how to mark the fixtures. Lodgments should be applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, marking all the necessary places with a pencil. The depth of drilling in this case cannot exceed 25% of the length of the self-tapping screw.

It is necessary to install the drain fittings by turning the bathtub on its side. For everything to go as smoothly as possible, you need to adhere to the following recommendations:

each gasket must be lubricated with silicone before installation;
installation of the gasket occurs from the outside;
it is better to choose a conical gasket, which is installed with a tip to the hose, so that during the tightening process it does not damage the spacer;
threaded connections must be tightened tightly, but not too tight, otherwise they may burst.

photos

When all this is done, you can turn the plumbing fixture over and install the legs. It should be noted that you will not be able to cope with the installation of such a product on your own, so you will definitely need a partner. A more experienced person should be on the side of the drain to constantly monitor its location and installation.

The acrylic bathtub should be as close as possible to the wall, which will provide more convenient use and prevent damage to the product. Once the model is in place, it should be leveled and sealed against leakage. First we use a sealant, we carry out the rest of the work only after it dries.

After the sealant has hardened, it is necessary to check for leaks, because after the work is completed it will be extremely difficult to return to the previous stage. If there are no leaks, then with the help of silicone it is also necessary to seal the gaps between the sides of the bath and the wall.

metal

Installation of a steel bath is carried out in the same way as acrylic. The only exception is the mounting of the legs, which must be inserted into the fasteners and fixed with bolts and nuts. It is necessary to fix it as firmly as possible, tapping them with a rubber mallet. The legs must not wobble, otherwise the steel bath may damage them.

Most plumbers advise placing pieces of rubber under the surfaces of the legs in contact with the bowl of the sanitary ware, which will greatly reduce the ringing when filling the tub with water.

The most difficult thing is to install a cast-iron bath, which has an extremely high mass, so moving it is very difficult and dangerous for repairing the room itself. If the size of the room allows, it is necessary to transfer the product to the bathroom and install it already there. First - drain and legs, then alignment is carried out.

If the cast iron model is equipped with decorative legs, this greatly complicates the installation. The fact is that the installation of such a product is a rather laborious and responsible process that only an experienced and professional master can handle. It will not be possible to install linings under the legs, as this completely destroys the attractive appearance of the product, and filing is extremely difficult, because accurate measurements are needed here.

Moreover, each time it will be necessary to turn the bath over, move it or move it to the side, which is extremely difficult, given its considerable weight. For this reason, to install a cast-iron bathtub, which is equipped with decorative legs, it is necessary to pre-level the floor surface (using materials that are characterized by increased strength).

Jacuzzi

Hot tubs are quite interesting and useful products for improving people's health. The combination of water with air bubbles provides relaxing and therapeutic effects. For the first time, a jacuzzi appeared in the United States of America, this happened in the middle of the last century. For a long time, only very wealthy people could afford a hot tub.

Now manufacturers of sanitary products offer a wide variety of models that are distinguished by an affordable price. In the era of high technology, there are many hot tubs on the market today, which are distinguished by small dimensions, a wide range of functions and attractive appearance.

The installation technology of such models has its own nuances and distinctive features, so it is better to entrust the installation to an experienced specialist.

Before starting the installation, you should prepare all the diagrams and recommendations of the manufacturer, as well as accurately mark the places where the connection to the sewer will take place, the installation of electrical wiring, and provide water supply. Due to the need to connect electricity, the installation of such a model must take place with strict observance of fire safety requirements, otherwise everything can lead to sad consequences. In this case, special attention must be paid to the power of the device and the voltage in the electrical system of the apartment or house.

When installing a jacuzzi, one should also take into account the fact that sockets, switches and other appliances must be located at a distance of at least 70 cm from the bath itself. Otherwise, it may lead to oxidation (due to increased humidity). This may cause a fire.

Complete with any hot tub are special legs that allow you to fix the model in the desired position and at a certain height so that there are no distortions. If you do not install the jacuzzi on legs, then during operation it will vibrate, which will not allow you to get the desired effect from its operation.

The installation of the legs should be carried out as carefully as possible, using a building level that will achieve accuracy. After alignment, the jacuzzi can be connected to other communications through a strobe.

Embedded option

Installing a built-in bathtub in the floor will not work without a pit. Moreover, an ordinary dug hole will not work here. It will also be necessary to carry out concreting of the walls and floor, thereby guaranteeing the space necessary for the installation and maintenance of the plumbing fixture. In the process of installing a built-in bath, certain nuances should be taken into account:

The contours of the pit must coincide with the contours of the bath and overlap with its sides. In other words, the bathtub must be supported by the sides.
The depth should be such that the sanitary ware is raised above the base by 50 mm or less.
Access to the pit should be provided so that the connection and installation of the bath can be carried out without problems. All water and sewer communications are displayed here. The ideal solution would be to hide all the pipes in an invisible hatch.

Work order

To understand the general principles of installing a bath, you should consider the sequence of work, which will be the same for any model, including acrylic and cast iron options. Of course, each type has its own distinctive features, there are also certain installation subtleties, but first you need to find out the general principles and installation rules.

So, installing a bath includes the following steps:

Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. Most of the models on the market are assembled thanks to union nuts and rubber seals. Beginners often make the mistake of sealing the joints, which in the future causes the product to break. An assembly diagram should be used.
Installation of a bathtub on supports. Here you should also be extremely careful. There are quite a few designs of supporting elements for a bath. You can find both complex and simple options. Some craftsmen prefer to use foam blocks or bricks rather than factory legs. Steel options look much better when installed in this way.
Warming and soundproofing. This stage applies to all types of bathtubs, except for cast iron ones, which already heat up perfectly and retain heat for a long time. In addition, they do not make too much noise when filling. Heat and sound insulation should be carried out using mounting foam, which is applied not only to the bottom, but also to the sides of the sanitary ware. The amount of foam directly depends on the size of the bath.

Installation. For ease of use, any bath should be set relative to the horizon. During the installation process, there is no need to lay slopes, since this moment is taken into account by the manufacturer when developing the bath. The support legs are equipped with screws for adjustment.
Fastening. This stage also applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs, since the own mass of a cast-iron product is quite enough so as not to sag under the pressure of water and a person. It is necessary to carry out fastening with the help of metal hooks, which are usually used to install boilers. In addition, special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bath can be used. This fastening allows you to prevent depressurization during the operation of the sanitary ware.
Joint sealing. This stage is the last one. This work can be done in several ways. In most cases, it will be advisable to use a white corner, but you can get by with self-adhesive border tape. If the gap between the bathroom and the wall is minimal, you can limit yourself to one bottle of sanitary silicone.

In the event that a corner bath will be installed, you need to pay attention to a number of features. Such products are rounded or oval in shape, and they must be mounted on a pre-prepared pedestal or wooden frame.

Important nuances

During the installation of the bath, you should be extremely careful so that the product can fully perform the functions assigned to it and last as long as possible. Pay attention to such points:

the legs are mounted in such a way that the siphon outlet element (pipe) is installed without problems in the sewer pipe;
the bath must be installed with a slope;
be sure to take into account the parallelism of the sides relative to the floor.

The tightness of the junction of the bath and the sewer must be monitored. If you are going to start using a plumbing device, you should pour 10 liters of cold and hot water into the bath.

If a bathtub with a hydromassage or other electronic functions is installed, it is necessary to check the correctness of the additional communication.

During the installation process of the bath, the main problems associated with the material from which the product is made should also be taken into account. Acrylic options have the following disadvantages.

When hot water is drawn in, the walls of the sanitary ware begin to “play”. This is due to the fact that the heated acrylic walls lose their original rigidity.
Legs are another weak side of acrylic plumbing. Standard legs cannot boast of impressive stability. Even if you set everything to the ideal level, you still won’t be able to save the situation.
The bottom of such a bath feels great with light loads, but it can sag a lot due to significant weight.
When taking in water, a drumming effect occurs due to the thinness of the walls of the acrylic bath. Such a drawback is noticed in any baths, but in acrylic it is most pronounced.

Cast iron and steel bathtubs boast good thermal insulation, but acrylic options in this regard leave much to be desired. Heated water quickly warms up the walls, but just as quickly cools them. This problem can be solved with the help of conventional cylinders with polyurethane foam. In addition, this method allows you to solve the problem associated with the soundproofing of the bath.

Foaming is carried out as follows:

the bath is turned upside down, and cardboard or other protective material is placed under it (this insert is needed so that the acrylic surface is not scratched);
the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt;
foam is applied and residues are removed from the surface.

It is much more economical and more comfortable to use a foam gun, but if it is not available, you can limit yourself to a simple balloon.

To ensure the durability and efficiency of the entire structure, you should correctly select the material of the drain fittings.

Most of the products on the market are made of PVC or propylene, which are reliable, attractive and durable. The latter material is much more expensive, but the walls are smoother, which greatly reduces the likelihood of blockages.

The idea to purchase cheap models of drain fittings should be immediately abandoned. The fact is that budget models are non-separable, so they are unsuitable for repair. Already after a couple of months of operation, the rust seizes the bolt so strongly that it cannot be unscrewed.

Don't buy hard pipe. An excellent solution would be a corrugated hose, which is extremely easy to install and guarantees excellent water permeability. Thanks to this, you can be sure that the bathroom will not flood with water.

Dismantling

If the bath has expired, the siphons have rusted or become unusable, it is better to replace the old bowl with a new one.

Initially, it seems that this is quite simple and does not require professional skills, but it is extremely difficult to properly remove the bath so as not to damage the enamel or other parts of the product. You need to act as follows:

Make sure the tub legs are securely fastened, since during dismantling the sanitary ware may fall and injure the fingers of a person. This may well happen if one of the legs is rotten or deformed. To fix the supports, special wedges should be used, which must be fixed properly.
Now you can start disconnecting the siphon and drains. The drain structure is usually disassembled quite easily, however, there are times when it is made of the same material as the bath. As a result of long-term operation, parts can rust to each other, so dismantling can only be done with the help of a grinder.
Along the perimeter, the bath is fixed thanks to a cement-sand mortar. To get rid of the connecting layer, you can use a hammer or puncher. The frozen solution must be beaten off as carefully as possible so as not to damage the tile.
When the bath is detached from the wall, it will be possible to proceed to the next stage of dismantling. The bathtub is moved away from the wall with the help of a mount, which is used as a lever.

In this case, the weight of the structure must be taken into account. Do not forget that it greatly exceeds the weight of an acrylic or iron product.

It is much more difficult to dismantle a cast-iron bath if it is necessary to maintain its integrity and attractive appearance. This type of plumbing is large and heavy, so it will not work to dismantle it yourself. Over the years of use, the bathtub is so firmly fixed to the wall and floor covering that it is extremely difficult to remove it.

Cast iron bathtubs can last a very long time, which is why they are in high demand. When starting dismantling work, determine whether the protective coating can be restored or not. There are many ways to significantly extend the life of the bathtub, one of the most effective and popular lately is the use of an acrylic liner. The complexity of the restoration work depends on a number of factors, including the weight and dimensions of the model.

The above instructions are designed to dismantle the product with minimal deterioration in the appearance of the room itself. Only the replacement of plumbing equipment is implied.

If you decide to overhaul the bathroom (with the replacement of all communications and plumbing fixtures), then you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the product.

Dismantling without saving the bowl will be faster, since the algorithm of actions is very simple. The only thing you will need to pay attention to is safety precautions, because with the wrong approach, you can damage your legs or arms.

To clean the bath, you must carry out the following work:

First, disconnect the siphon from the plumbing device itself. You can do this with a regular grinder.
Using a puncher, you need to disconnect the bath from the wall.
Since the bath will not be used in the future, you can cut it into several pieces. This will not only simplify the dismantling process, but also allow you to take it out of the room without any problems.
You can hit the bottom with a sledgehammer. Usually one good blow is enough for the product to be divided into several parts. It will also be possible to effectively disassemble the bath into several fragments thanks to gas cutting.
If dismantling is carried out by one person, the bath should be divided into many parts. Cast iron models are quite heavy, so each piece will be quite heavy.

When starting work, first of all, pay attention to the material from which the sanitary ware is made. This will help you choose the most suitable dismantling method.

So, it can be noted that the installation of a bathtub is a complex and responsible process that requires a competent approach and care. It is important not only to choose the right plumbing fixture, but also to professionally prepare the room for its installation. In the selection process, you should pay attention to the material, size and shape of the product, as well as its manufacturer.

Move steel and plastic plumbing products should be extremely careful, because such a coating can be damaged, deformed. The easiest to work with is a cast iron bathtub, which is so heavy and strong that it is almost impossible to break it. However, incorrect transport can cause damage to the wall or door in the bathroom, as well as increased pressure on the floors. All this is also complicated by the fact that the installation of the bath takes place in a small room, where it is extremely difficult to fit two people.

One of the most important conditions for self-installation of the bathroom is the presence of a skilled assistant who can maintain the sanitary ware, supply the necessary tools and provide other necessary assistance. When installing this type of plumbing, you must be careful and accurate, because an accidentally fallen bathtub can lead to a crack or breakage. If cast-iron models can be somehow reanimated, then a damaged acrylic product cannot be repaired, so it will have to be replaced.

A steel bath is the cheapest option, with proper installation and additional processing, its performance is in no way inferior to more expensive counterparts. The main advantage of heavy cast iron bathtubs is that heat is retained for a long time. But in order to warm up cast iron, you need a lot of hot water, and this is associated with additional losses of thermal energy. In addition, during the adoption of water procedures, the water still cools down, the heat leaves through a large area of unprotected surfaces. There is a simple way to eliminate this disadvantage, if desired, the performance of an ordinary steel bath can be brought to high standards.

An important point, the right choice simplifies installation and increases the comfort of use.

By what criteria are bathtubs classified?

Parameter	Meaning and tips for choosing
	105x70, 120x70, 130x70, 140x70, 150x70, 160x70, 170x70, 170x75, 180x80. Choose the length and width of the bath, taking into account the size of the room and the height of the residents. Try to keep the product as close as possible to opposite walls, this will greatly simplify the installation process.
	110, 120, 123, 136, 150, 170, 195, 210, 240. The volume directly depends on the depth, and this parameter affects the height of the edge. If elderly people or children live in the house, then you should not buy a large bath, it is difficult to enter and exit it. In addition, a large volume will require significant losses of hot water. But, on the other hand, the more water, the longer the comfortable temperature is maintained.
	Bolted or double sided tape. The first option is used by serious manufacturers, bolting is more reliable, in most cases it does not require additional reinforcement or installation on bricks. Legs on adhesive tape - a budget option, not stable. The legs can help level the plane of the bathtub horizontally; to increase the reliability of fixation, installation on brick linings is recommended.
	All steel bathtubs are covered with enamel. But the quality of coverage is different. Domestic producers cover the worst. Insufficient enamel thickness and low quality of the composition in terms of physical strength reduce the service life. As a result, the need to restore the enamel (long and unreliable) or replace it.

Approach the choice of the size of the bath responsibly, take into account the characteristics of the residents and the room. Poor-quality enamel can be recognized by several signs.

Run your hand across the surface. The surface must be perfectly smooth. Roughness or "sea waves" indicate a violation of the annealing regimes. Such a coating will quickly get dirty, requires constant cleaning.
Examine the cover from various angles. If the standard thickness is not observed, then in some places the shade of white changes.
Pay attention to the area of the bottom near the drain. There are cases when the drain is in the same plane or protrudes slightly above the surface. In this bath, the water will not leave completely, a small amount of it always remains near the drain. After drying, calcium is deposited in these places, over time it acquires a yellow tint.

Practical advice. Steel bathtubs belong to the segment of inexpensive goods, you do not need to buy the cheapest ones. Additional savings will eventually bring losses, purchase products only from well-known, time-tested and numerous buyers manufacturers.

steel bath

Site preparation

At the installation site of the bathroom, there should already be sewer and water pipes. Check the levelness of the floor and the corners of the room. If the angle between the walls is not equal to 90°, then this drawback must be taken into account during the installation of the bath.

The floor covering must be horizontal.

Of course, with the help of legs or bricks, the bath will be installed evenly, but there may be problems with water drainage during leaks. The fact is that it is difficult to detect small leaks under the bathroom, all elements are closed. If water accumulates near the wall, and the leaks are insignificant, then a fungus will definitely appear in this place. Getting rid of it is difficult, time-consuming and expensive. In some cases, you will have to completely dismantle the bathtub, make a set of special events and reinstall the bathtub. Minor leaks can occur for various reasons, it is impossible to completely guarantee their absence. If the water flows towards the screen, then the problem is immediately visible, the causes are eliminated in a timely manner and the negative consequences are minimal.

Siphon and overflow installation

These elements must be mounted before installing the bath in place. According to their device and connection technology, all systems are the same, the difference is only in price and material of manufacture.

Step 1. Turn the tub upside down. To protect the enamel from mechanical damage during tipping, place cardboard or a soft cloth on the floor. Do not do such work yourself, call an assistant. Together, the process is not only significantly accelerated, but the quality of installation is also improved.

Step 2 Read the assembly instructions, check the completeness of the siphon. Pay attention to the gaskets, they differ in appearance and size. Do not confuse the gaskets, each must be installed in its place.

Step 3 Assemble the siphon, fix it in the drain hole. Do not apply too much force, do not damage the oil seals and gaskets. To facilitate the assembly of the structure, it is recommended to use technical petroleum jelly or moisten the surfaces with soapy water.

The upper part is attached inside the bathtub, the lower part is attached under the drain hole of the bathtub

Important. The drain gasket has a groove dividing it into parts of unequal thickness. The thin side should go inside the bath, the thick side should be on the back side. Don't change position. Otherwise, the plastic element will protrude above the surface of the bath, the water will not be able to completely leave. The remaining part, after drying, forms yellow spots on the bottom, they will often have to be removed. All cleaning products contain compounds that have a negative effect on enamel. Although their concentration is insignificant, but with repeated use, the thickness of the enamel decreases.

Step 4 Turn the tub on its side, install the gaskets in turn and screw on the plastic parts of the drain and overflow. Doing this is much easier with two people. One should hold the parts, and the second should tighten with a mounting bolt. Do not apply too much force, the plastic may crack.

Check the tightness of the connections. It is best to do this before installing the bath in place, so it will be easier to eliminate leaks. Everything is fine - you can install the legs.

Leg mounting

We have already mentioned that the legs can be fixed with double-sided tape or nuts. The first option shouldn't be a problem. You just need to make sure that they do not interfere with the revision of the siphon and ensure the stability of the bath.

Assembling the second version of the legs will be more difficult. It is impossible to give general recommendations, each manufacturer develops its own design. Look at the pictures, read the recommendations. It is necessary to achieve reliable fixation of all structural details to the bath.

Adjust the position of the bath using the threads on the legs, check the levelness in two directions with a level. When you find the right position, be sure to fix the threads of the legs with nuts. They should not stagger, otherwise, over time, the slope of the bath will change. In addition, there will be gaps between the wall and the bathroom. To fix the problem, you will have to make additional stops under the bottom.

And one more piece of advice. Unfortunately, there are defective bathtubs, their factory slope of the bottom does not provide complete drainage of water. To prevent such situations, practitioners are advised to immediately increase the slope of the bath bottom towards the drain hole by a few millimeters. It is imperceptible to the eye, but there will be a guarantee of the normal functioning of the drain.

Bowl insulation

A very significant point, it makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of warm water, which is important given the current prices for utilities. After the bowl is insulated, in terms of heat saving indicators, the bath significantly exceeds all expensive analogues available for sale. In addition, it does not add weight, perfectly dampens unpleasant sounds during filling with water.

How is the bowl insulated?

Step 1. Work must be done in an overturned position. Recommended immediately after installing a siphon with a weir and legs. Buy two or three bottles of mounting foam. The cheaper the better. The fact is that cheap foam during solidification increases significantly in volume, and this is exactly what we need. More volume - more air bubbles, less heat loss. And the low price is due to the low compression force, this parameter in our case does not play any role.

Step 2 Clean the outside of the tub. If it has grease on it, you will have to wash it off with solvents. Working with solvents is unsafe for health, ensure maximum ventilation of the room. It is better to work outdoors than indoors. Be sure to use respiratory protection.

Step 3 After the solvent has completely dried, moisten the surface of the bottom with a spray gun. Moisture increases the coefficient of adhesion of the foam to the bottom by an order of magnitude. In addition, water contributes to the optimal mode of chemical reactions, the foam hardens much faster.

Step 4 Shake the foam bottle thoroughly, put on a special plastic tube. Start covering the bottom with foam. The process will go faster if applied in sectors from the bottom up. The foam should lie down in even rows at a distance of no more than a centimeter. The rows are wider - not a problem, after solidification, the gaps will get better. If the surface dries out, rewet it with a sprayer. Do not touch the wet foam with your hands, do not try to “stick” it to the surface. You will get nothing but additional problems. The foam will no longer increase in volume, and it is almost impossible to wash your hands. It will take a long and tedious to scrape it off with a knife.

Step 5 Wait until the foam hardens, check the uniformity of the coating, blow out the gaps.

Practical advice. If the foam falls off vertical surfaces, then turn the bathtub in different directions and finish only the horizontal ones. It will take longer to work, but the result is worth it.

Step 6 Cut off the excess foam near the edge of the bath, it should not interfere with the frame for the screen. The distance depends on the type and method of screen mounting.

This completes the preparatory work for the installation. The bath has a siphon, legs and insulation.

Installing a bathtub on bricks

This installation completely eliminates the staggering and tipping of the bath, we strongly recommend using it.

Step 1. Put the bath on legs in the right place, mark their location, draw horizontal lines. Bricks or blocks will be laid along these lines. The bathtub is pre-adjusted in height and inclination by the leg bolts.

Step 2 Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor, prepare the required number of bricks. If necessary, use a bricklayer's hammer to chip off the extra parts at the required height.

Step 3 Prepare a cement-sand mortar. For one part of cement, give about three parts of sand, water as needed.

Step 4 Lay two rows of bricks where the tub is held. Place another two centimeters of mortar on top. The mortar should hold its shape and not spread over the surface of the bricks. If necessary, add a little sand and cement to it, mix thoroughly.

Step 5 Carefully lower the bath vertically into place until it stops with the solution. Now, with a little effort, shake and press it until the legs stop on the floor, repeat these actions on both sides. Take your time, let the bath gradually take its place and squeeze out the excess solution. As soon as the legs (if any) touch the floor, installation is complete. Allow the solution time to harden (about 24 hours) and proceed with the installation of the tub.

Bath Screens

With the help of screens, communications are hidden, it is possible to make shelves for storing various household items. In addition, they significantly improve the interior of the room. The screen can be brick with further cladding with ceramic tiles, MDF, plastic panels, gypsum boards, OSB, or in the form of an ordinary dense fabric curtain. We will tell you in turn how to do each option.

Designs must necessarily provide convenient access to the siphon for periodic maintenance work to clean the system. The presence of an opening for the legs is advisable to do only when the bathroom is used for washing. As an option - a country house for temporary residence. It is unprofitable and dangerous to install an expensive washing machine in it; summer residents, out of old habit, use a bath for washing clothes.

What are the frames for installing screens

Any type of screen, except brick, is mounted on a frame. They are made of metal profiles (the best option), wooden slats or square pipes. The latter option is very expensive and time-consuming, and has no operational advantages. Why do you need a frame that can withstand a load of hundreds of kilograms, if it actually does not exceed a few? We believe that it makes no sense to consider it. The manufacture of the structure must be approached very carefully; in any case, the curved structure will have to be redone.

How to make a frame from metal profiles?

Step 1. Count the number of profiles.

They need three baths vertical in height, two horizontal in length and two horizontal in width baths. To strengthen the structure, use jumpers, for the door you need to make a separate small frame. Three jumpers are enough in length, in width you can do without them. Knowing the size of your bathtub, it is easy to find out the total amount of material. Immediately buy self-tapping screws for attaching profiles.

Step 2 Make a markup.

A very important stage, do not rush, check the measurements several times. To improve accuracy, use a plumb line, the level of the vertical plane indicates inaccurately.

How to markup?

Attach the plumb line to the wall and corner of the bath, wait until it calms down. Mark the top and bottom position of the thread, draw a line between the marks. Using the same algorithm, draw a vertical line at all free corners of the bath, there may be two or three of them, depending on the size of the bath and the room. Thus, the place of docking of the screen with the walls is indicated.
At a distance of about 3-4 centimeters, draw parallel lines next to them outside the perimeter of the bath. The specific distance depends on the frame material and finishing materials: drywall, OSB, MDF or glue and ceramic tiles.
Draw the same parallel lines on the bathroom floor. Check all dimensions again, do not make mistakes.

Further work depends on the material of manufacture of the frame. The best option is a metal profile, but you can also work with wooden slats.

Metal profile frame

Step 1. Cut the metal profile to size, as we have already described above, how to determine them. Do not deal with jumpers yet, make blanks only around the perimeter of the frame.

Step 2 Lay the long profile on the floor, one side must fit exactly on the marked line. Carefully mark the places for drilling the holes for the dowels with a marker. It is bad to work with a pencil, use a marker.

Step 3 Remove the profile, drill holes with a drill, put the profile in place and fix it. Do not immediately tighten the dowels, the slats have perforated holes, with which you can move the element a little in different directions and achieve the exact position.

Step 4. Now fix the planks to the walls. The algorithm of actions is the same. If it is planned to use a heavy OSB board for sheathing, then the vertical and horizontal profiles at the corners are interconnected with hardware.

Step 5 Fasten the profiles along the length and width against the upper side of the bathroom, you should get a solid frame. If necessary, make additional jumpers to strengthen the structure. They can be vertical or horizontal.

Step 6 Decide on the size of the door for the revision of the siphon, make a small frame for it in the right place. The position of all frame elements is constantly checked by a level. Door dimensions are at least 30 cm around the perimeter, otherwise it is inconvenient to clean the siphon.

The frame is ready, check its stability, apply multidirectional efforts from all sides. The structure is staggering - add jumpers in problem areas, achieve high stability.

Frame made of wooden beams

In terms of its performance, it is in no way inferior to the metal profile. Do not be afraid that rot will appear on the tree. There are concerns - soak it with antiseptics.

For the frame, you can use rails of various sizes. When choosing, take into account the load of the finish sheathing. A universal option can be considered the dimensions of the rails five by five centimeters. Do the markings on the floor and wall, as always. One feature - consider the width of the rails, they should go under the side shelves of the bath and not interfere with the finish. To fix the frame, use metal corners and dowels, the width of the corners is slightly less than the width of the rails. This will allow you to safely adjust the position of the frame. In addition, possible errors during the drilling of holes for dowels are easily corrected.

Step 1. Place a long bar on the floor, estimate the position of the corners. Make marks for drilling holes for dowels.

Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of the corner going beyond the line, it is better to move it slightly inward. It is not scary that it will be screwed to the bar not in the center, but nothing will interfere with the finishing.

Step 2 Drill holes, fasten the corners with dowels and a bar to them with self-tapping screws. Adjust its position. In the same way, install a meek bar.

Step 3 Measure the height of the vertical elements. Make a gap of about 1 cm to the bottom of the sides of the tub. Fasten the segments with corners into a single structure with the bottom.

Step 4 Prepare two more long and two short ones for fixing at the top of the frame. Why two and not one? We recommend installing the first one at a distance of about 10 cm from the side, these bars are needed to control the size and verticality of the frame. On an already stable structure, it is recommended to fix one more close to the side. It is much easier to do this, the frame is more accurate. In addition, the strength of the structure is increased.

Step 5 In the right places, make a frame for the door, if heavy materials are used, then put a few jumpers. To increase strength, you can fix several spacers at the corners.

The frame is ready, you can start the finishing sheathing, fastening is carried out with wood screws.

brick screens

In terms of time, they do not take very much time, but in terms of strength, reliability and durability they are much superior to the previously described options. Prepare materials and tools. You can use bricks or concrete blocks. The number is calculated in this way.

Calculate the side and end area of the space near the bathtub that you are going to cover.
Divide the resulting amount by the area of one brick or block. Round off the number to a whole number. For a reserve, you can take one block or two bricks.

One bath will require two buckets of sand and a third of a bucket of cement. In the future, the surface must be finished with ceramic tiles, we will give a step-by-step design in the next section.

Step 1. Lay the first row of bricks on edge, constantly check its position with a level. You need to know that the masonry on the edge has its own characteristics, if they are not observed, the wall can “float”. First feature. The mortar should be slightly thicker than when laying flat. To increase the adhesion of the mortar to the side face of the brick, it should be moistened with a spray gun. Do not overdo it. The optimal degree of wetting will be determined in a practical way. The second feature. After three rows, you need to give time to the solution to harden a little. Take a break for two or three hours.

The brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joints of the lower row are overlapped with whole bricks of the upper one.

Step 2 Continue work until the entire space is closed. It will be difficult to push the mortar into the gap between the masonry and the sides. It is desirable to make such an emphasis, it significantly increases the strength of the installation of the bath. Use for this purpose any narrow improvised means, such work cannot be done with a trowel.

Important. Do not forget to leave a hole for the revision of the siphon. Check the structure, remove the remnants of the protruding solution. Allow at least a day to dry.

Finishing with ceramic tiles

If the wall already has tiles, then the work is somewhat more complicated. The fact is, you need to take measures to match the seam between the tiles on the wall and the screen. There are situations when it is impossible to put a whole tile, you have to cut it into pieces. No practical experience in cutting tiles - use plastic inserts. They can even out jambs up to a centimeter, but the appearance, of course, will suffer a little. Real professionals do not use inserts for joints, their cuts fit snugly against surfaces without gaps.

Step 1. Count the number of tiles, the method is the same as for bricks. And you can buy one or two tiles in stock, you won’t need more, a very small area of \u200b\u200bthe surface to be trimmed. Glue need to buy about 10 kg.

Step 2 Start laying tiles from the bottom row. Check the position with a level or even rail, control several tiles at the same time. They must lie strictly in the same plane.

Step 3 The tile is placed on an uneven surface, it is impossible to use a comb. Apply glue with a spatula along the edges and in the center of the tile, about one centimeter thick. Next, the tile must be pressed and moved to the left to the right until the position is leveled. The final adjustment is done with a level. Don't forget to use crosses. Some beginners install crosses flat on the four corners of the joint. This should not be done for several reasons. Firstly, it is much more difficult to level the tile, the cross will constantly shift the nearby one. Secondly, there will be problems with removing the cross, you will have to pick out each one with a knife.

Step 4 No experience - use plastic elements in the corners and joints, they make the job much easier.

Step 5. You can start in about two hours. The color of the material should be in harmony with the tiles and the overall design of the room. Excess grout is removed with a damp cloth or sponge. Do not wait until it is completely dry, dry material is difficult to clean.

Finishing with OSB boards or drywall

Finishing with tiles is much easier than laying ceramic tiles. How is it done?

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the frame, mark the plate. As a rule, the length of the bath exceeds the length of the plate, you will have to join. Such a probability must be foreseen even during the manufacture of the frame and a vertical stand should be installed at the docking point.

Cut off all blanks. Drywall is easily cut with a mounting knife, for OSB you will need a hand-held electric saw or a jigsaw.

Step 2. Fix the elements in turn with self-tapping screws, carefully work with drywall. With great efforts to tighten the self-tapping screws, their heads fall into the gypsum, and new ones have to be screwed in.

Step 3 Screw small hinges at the door installation site. Check door functionality.

Step 4 Proceed to surface finishing. You can use ceramic tiles - long and expensive. There is an easier option - paste over the surfaces with a self-adhesive decorative film, today there is a huge selection on sale - cheap and beautiful. In addition, you can easily change the pattern or repair the coating in case of mechanical damage. But the film has a drawback - the surface must be perfectly flat.

Practical advice. Don't try to stick the film right away without air pockets, it's almost impossible to do. Removing air is simple - pierce the pocket in several places with a needle and remove air by smoothing the pocket.

Plastic lining

The option is not the best. It is recommended to apply if the walls of the bathroom are finished with clapboard. The installation process is standard. The problem arises with the technological hole and the door. Practitioners recommend making them from drywall OSB, not wasting time on lining.

How to make sliding doors

Very simple and functional version of the screen. For manufacturing, you will need two guides and an MDF board. The disadvantage of this material is that there is a possibility of spontaneous deformation. You can get rid of it only by making a separate small frame for the doors. It is advisable to use thin wooden slats, MDF is glued to them with special glue.

Step 1. Make a frame from a metal profile, we have described the algorithm for manufacturing such structures. Check the position of all elements.

Important. For a sliding screen, it is especially important to maintain the parameters, the racks must be strictly vertical.

Step 2 Attach the rails to the frame. They can be aluminum or plastic.

Step 3 Measure the exact distance between the guides, the spread in parallelism cannot exceed 1–2 mm. Otherwise, during the opening / closing of the door will wedge.

Step 4 Cut out the doors of the desired size from the MDF board. 2-3 cm is enough to overlap. You can cut the plate with an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw. Work carefully, make an emphasis from below - the hairiness of the cut will decrease.

Step 5 Remove the bevel from the cut. Use sandpaper or a circular grinder. Install handles.

There is another way. It is the most reliable, but also the most time-consuming. It is advisable to use it before facing the walls, if they are already finished, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated.

Step 1. Remove a row of ceramic tiles at the level of the bath rim. If it breaks, there's nothing to worry about. Put a new one in its place and make the edging of the bathtub with a pattern, this will only improve the appearance.

Step 2 On the wall, draw a line for the position of the upper plane of the bath rim, draw another line at a distance of about 2 cm. It indicates the position of the protruding side of the side.

Step 3. Make a groove in the wall along the lines about 1 cm deep.

Step 4 Spread the ends of the side with sealant, put the bath in place. The sides should enter the groove a little, remove the excess sealant.

The tiles are laid, a decorative ceramic plinth is used to match the tiles

This method fully guarantees the tightness of the junction, water will never get behind the bath.

Use any method that is not difficult for you. If the technology is not violated, then the tightness of the place where the bathtub joins the wall will be sufficient.