How to insulate a wooden front door? Ways of self-insulation. How and with what to insulate the front door in a private house and apartment Materials for insulating doors in a private house

There are a number of rules by which entrance and interior doors are installed. When installing them in accordance with GOST, there are many options for how to close the gap, which must be mandatory. The gap ensures unhindered opening and closing of the web, even if it swells or is slightly skewed.

Clearance standards for a standard door

Rules for mounting a door with a gap

The ease of use of the door structure depends on whether the gaps are correctly formed and the door is installed. If there is an increase in humidity, the wooden door will most likely expand, which will lead to difficulties with opening and closing it.

Note! Too large a gap, especially when it comes to the front door, does not guarantee reliableherlocking in the closed position.

There are clear standards according to which the gaps between the frame and the door leaf should be formed. And it all depends on the size of the canvas, that is, the height, width and weight of the door are taken into account. At the same time, some errors are allowed, for example, if the distance between the jamb and the canvas should be 5 mm in size, then 4-6 mm is considered the norm.

Standard door kit

If there is a standard door set with dimensions of 200x60x90 cm, then the gap on all sides should be 3-4mm. It is allowed to form a gap up to 5 mm if:

high humidity in the room and ventilation is needed;
The doors are made of a material that absorbs moisture very well.

It is worth paying attention to the distance from the threshold to the canvas. Under normal conditions, it is 2-2.5 cm. If you need to provide improved ventilation and unhindered opening, then the distance can be increased to 4 cm.

door seal

Gap rules

In order to avoid the problem of sealing too large or developing small gaps, the door must initially be installed correctly. To do this, follow a few simple rules during installation:

During the installation of the box for primary gaps, you need to leave 1-2 cm, because during the hardening process the foam swells and presses on the box. In the process of this, it is impossible to create the correct gaps.
When the foam has already dried and completely hardened, you can begin to form gaps. To do this, on the sides and top between the canvas and the box, you need to put a material that has the required thickness. In the case of a standard box and canvas size, this is 3-4 mm. In this case, packing cardboard from under the door kit is best suited. It's just that thick.
To prevent displacement of the box in the opening, it should be jammed.
Check door balance. To do this, you can use the building level. Despite its weight, the canvas must firmly "sit" on the wedges. In this case, the supporting structure in the open form should not move.

As a result, after removing the wedges and spacers, the door structure must maintain an even geometry, and the gaps must remain in the dimensions that were planned during their formation.

Option to remove the draft

The gap is wrong, what should I do?

Situations where the gap is very small or large are common. In the first case, it is necessary to reduce the door leaf, in the second - insulation (closing) of the gap.

The first step is to check if the box is warped, for this you should use the building level. Must be observed:

Diagonals - the distance between opposite corners is equal.
Angles should all be 90 degrees.

If the gap is too small, you can carry out the following manipulations:

Peel off the paint, especially wooden painted doors that are many years old. The layering of paint over time greatly reduces the gap.
If there is no paint, then use a hand planer to cut off the contours until a normal gap is formed.

If the gaps are very large (for a standard canvas - more than 6 mm), actions are needed to insulate and close the gap. This is especially important if the door is the entrance, because the presence of too much distance between the box and the canvas leads to:

Deterioration of protective qualities. Such a door can be easily cracked, and therefore, penetrate into the room.
During the winter months, the cold comes in.
Sound transmission improves, which does not contribute to comfort.

Note! If the door set (frame and leaf) are certified in accordance with state standards, there should be no problems with the gaps for the front door. The question of how to close the gap will not arise.

Multi-chamber sealing tape

We warm the gap

There are many options for closing the gap between the door and the box. Before insulating the canvas, you need to decide how much you need to reduce the gap.

Through the slots, which are mandatory, it often blows, they do not provide sound insulation. In addition, the seal prevents the door from slamming. When choosing a sealing material, it is worth starting not so much from aesthetics and ease of installation as from insulating qualities.

Crack filling materials:

Sealing (heat-insulating) strip.
silicone mass.
Other options.

Each method is used depending on where the door is installed and the size of the gap.

Sealing tapes (self-adhesive)

Bands can be rubber or plastic. Regardless of the material, they are inexpensive and easy to install. It is easiest to work with self-adhesive strips. On the one hand, they have an adhesive layer, which, provided that the surface is prepared for gluing, adheres tightly.

Double sealing "self-adhesive"

There are tapes of various thicknesses and widths. They can cover gaps of various sizes. Their only downside is that they need to be replaced over time, especially if the door is permanently closed. In this case, the tape is compressed and reduced in size - this worsens its functionality.

Clean the place of installation from dust and degrease.
Measure the required length of the tape, cut it off with a small margin (up to 1 cm).
Peel off the protective film by 5-10 cm.
Attach the tape to the door frame, it is best to start from the top of the corner.
As gluing, free from protective paper.
Press the tape firmly during installation.

In places where hinges are mounted, glue should be on the front surface of the stopper or on the inner surface of the web. In the corners, the joints of the tape should be clearly cut.

Strips without self-adhesive

They are the same in quality as the first type, the only thing they do not have is a self-adhesive layer. This somewhat reduces the cost of them, also such options have a different installation method.

Tape installation sequence:

Clean the door jamb of dust.
Measure the required length of tape.
Close the door, in this position, put the tape on the jamb, so that it fits snugly against it, even rests against the door.
Nail to the jamb with short nails.

Thus, the door frame is upholstered completely. The distance between the nails is no more than 10 cm.

Insulation without adhesive

silicone paste

Or easier - building silicone. It is sold in small tubes, transparent or white. To apply the composition, you need a special gun, which can be found in a hardware store. The process of how to seal cracks with silicone:

To avoid contamination of the door surface, you must first cover those places where work will not be carried out with petroleum jelly.
Insert the tube into the gun.
Trim the tip so that the thickness of the silicone strip when extruding is slightly larger than necessary to close the gap.
The gun should be held at a 45 degree angle to the jamb.
Gently pressing the trigger on the gun will start pushing the silicone out of the tube.
The movement of the gun must be smooth so as not to squeeze out the excess.
After completing the treatment of all surfaces, close the door and wait until the silicone has dried. The specific drying time is indicated on the tube with the material.
After the time has elapsed, open the door and remove excess silicone.

Sealing the joints in this way is convenient, because the silicone will take the form it needs.

Other Methods

Among them:

Stuffing wooden glazing beads (thin slats) in places where there are gaps.
Stuffing strips of felt, other dense fabric.
The threshold can be insulated by stuffing a strip of soft rubber, special silicone curtains or “brushes” along the lower edge of the door leaf. The latter option will not only provide thermal insulation, but also maintain ventilation in the room.

Output

Methods for insulating and closing the gaps between the frame and the door leaf depend on the size of the gap, financial capabilities and the type of door material. You can implement any insulation with your own hands, without much physical effort.

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Entrance metal doors have two main tasks: to reliably protect the owners from intruders and to create comfortable living conditions. Comfort, in turn, is always associated with warmth in an apartment or house. Therefore, warming the doorway of the front door is the primary goal of the owners after installing a new door unit. After all, he, along with windows, is the main conductor of cold into the room. It is necessary to insulate the box, door leaf and slopes.

In this paper, we will consider in detail all the stages of thermal insulation of the frame and door leaf. The nuances of the process of slope insulation are discussed in detail in the material: “Finishing the slopes of the front door”, which makes it possible not to touch on this topic here.

The choice of insulation for the front door

Insulation of the front door in an apartment or a private house involves several operations for thermal insulation of the doorway:

insulation of the technological gap;
creating a thermal break in the frame of the door frame;
thermal insulation of the door leaf inside and outside;
sealing the gaps between the box and the canvas from drafts;
installation of second doors.

Each stage of work requires its own heaters.

Insulation of the technological gap

The distance between the wall and the door frame (technological gap) in the vast majority of cases is foamed with mounting foam. At the same time, some experts prefer a cement-sand mixture, which, in our opinion, is not the best solution:

cement mortar conducts heat better, which means that the path to the room will be ajar for cold;
throwing mortar into the opening between the box and the outer casing from the side of the apartment will require skill and patience, because the gap between the wall material and the iron block of the door is only 2-2.5 cm.

Thermal insulation of the door frame

In all economy class doors, the door frame is not insulated. The metal conducts heat well, which requires the creation of a thermal break inside the profile. For these purposes, you can use:

expanded clay;
sawdust;
mounting foam.

For information: recently, a thermal cord has been laid to heat the door frame, which can be turned on and off at any time.

Of these materials, foam holds the best heat, but it is also the most expensive. The use of bulk insulation is much cheaper, but there is a problem when filling horizontal structural elements with them. If the profile is partially filled from below, expanded clay or sawdust spills out of the vertical racks, then filling the top becomes a problem that cannot always be solved. Foam has no such problems.

Conclusion: if the door is really insulated, and thermal insulation processes are not imitated, the box should be insulated with polyurethane foam.

Installation of seals

Insulation of the front door in the apartment will not work if there are no seals on the porch. They are on sale:

rubber;
thermoplastic elastomers, also referred to as thermoplastic elastomers (abbreviated TPE);
artificial rubber;
silicone;
foam rubber.

In this case, it is best to buy insulation for the front door from artificial rubber or rubber. Silicone material is much more expensive with comparable technical characteristics with the materials noted above.

Foam rubber has a service life of 4-6 years, after which it deforms and lets in cold air from the entrance.

Door leaf insulation

Thermal insulation of the door leaf is possible in two ways:

The inner part of the door leaf structure is filled with insulation - the technological method is possible only with a removable sheet from the inside of the door (it is not welded).
The heat-insulating material is mounted on top of the door from the outside or inside, which does not exclude the double-sided option of insulation.

In this regard, both general and specific requirements are imposed on canvas heaters. As for the general materials:

must be environmentally friendly;
have a low heat absorption coefficient;
do not absorb water;
have an operational resource commensurate with the service life of the doors;
be affordable to the mass consumer.

Specific ones depend on the place of thermal insulation. So, when insulating a door with upholstery, the insulating material must be elastic, capable of significant deformations, which is not the case with rigid foam insulation.

As a filler, polystyrene, expanded polystyrene (penoplex), basalt wool, synthetic winterizer, foam rubber, isolon and other materials have gained wide popularity.

Good for filling the interior of the door leaf Styrofoam. It has a low weight (the door does not become heavier), high strength and wear resistance. The advantages include a simple laying technology - it is easily cut to the size of the cells formed by the stiffeners.

Improved foam is gaining popularity - polystyrene foam(trademark "Penoplex"). Many builders believe that this is the same material. In form - yes, in fact, these are different heaters, as evidenced by their comparative characteristics.

Thermal conductivity index:

0.036–0.050 W / (m K) - foam;
0.028 W / (m K) - expanded polystyrene.

Water absorption (%):

4.0 - foam;
0.4 - expanded polystyrene.

As can be seen from the comparison, expanded polystyrene retains heat better with a smaller thickness.

Basalt wool- one of the rare building materials, which is difficult to find flaws. Him:

affordable price;

ecological cleanliness;

low coefficient of thermal conductivity;

resistance to high temperatures and aggressive environments;

long operating time.

Minus one - when wet, it sharply loses the ability to protect the apartment from the cold. This is not a problem for apartments, but for private houses in rural areas (dachas) and the city it is better not to use it, since in winter the door freezes from the outside and warms up from the inside, as a result of which condensation forms inside the door leaf, which reduces the thermal insulation capacity of basalt wool by 10 -15%.

A very effective insulating material is isolon- the result of foaming polyethylene with propane. Him:

very good thermal insulation performance;
low water absorption - less than 1%;
increased flexibility and elasticity;
simple laying technology;
low specific gravity;
high service life - up to 100 years.

Among the minuses, a very high price should be noted.

Sintepon is a lightweight, voluminous, elastic non-woven insulation in which synthetic fibers are bonded with glue or thermally. However, its use is justified only in apartments - when the outside temperature drops to -10 o C, it becomes useless.

Widely used for door insulation and elastic foam rubber consisting of 90% air. It has excellent thermal insulation properties and easy installation. The disadvantages include rapid flammability, a shorter service life and difficulties in transportation - it cannot be compressed, as the original quality characteristics are lost.

Insulation of the entrance metal door with your own hands can be done with isolon, foam rubber, mineral wool obtained from basalt and batting.

Batting, as a heater, has not found wide application in construction. But for upholstery doors fits almost perfectly. Only knitting-stitching material is used, in which:

a high level of thermal insulation, both from low and high temperatures, which synthetic materials do not have;
the ability to absorb noise of various origins;
environmental friendliness - made from natural fibers, mainly wool.

Weaknesses include:

high weight - specific gravity 200-400 g / m 2;
the ability to absorb water in large quantities;
uneven distribution of fibers during operation of the door, resulting in zones with a thick and thin layer of material.

Materials and tools

Each type of insulation requires its own materials and tools.

For technological clearance

To seal the space between the door block and the wall, you will need:

mounting foam in tubes;
masking tape;
polyethylene film;
knife or scissors;
foam gun.

For information: each can of foam has its own sprayer. But it is difficult to work without a pistol in many cases. Therefore, professionals take their use for granted.

For door frame

To perform a thermal break in the box profile will help:

an electric drill with a drill of the same diameter as the feed tube of a construction gun;
mounting foam;
construction pistol;
removable blade knife.

For the porch

You can fix the problem called "blowing from the cracks between the door leaf and the frame" using:

seal in one piece;
universal or special glue;
scissors or a construction knife.

For internal insulation

Replacing the door leaf filler requires the following materials and tools:

thermal insulation material;
polyethylene film for waterproofing insulation;
wooden bars;
self-tapping screws;
glue;
metal corners to stiffen the box of bars;
electric drills with a set of drills for metal;
construction knife;
scissors;
wood saws with fine teeth;
screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
an awl or thin nail;
sandpaper P60.

Attention: how to insulate an entrance metal door in an apartment with the help of upholstery is discussed in detail in the article: “Do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantine”. Therefore, it is not advisable to consider the technology of external insulation in this material.

Instructions for warming

Consider step by step how to insulate the front iron door quickly and correctly.

Technological gap

Insulation of the doorway in the area of the technological gap is carried out in the following sequence:

from the side of the room, the box and the door are closed with plastic wrap and masking tape - the tape is glued to the steel profile of the box, the film covers the door leaf;
the gap is abundantly wetted with water from a spray bottle or a plastic bottle. Installers will say that dust is removed in this way. In fact, spraying is carried out for another purpose: to give moisture to the foam in order to improve its structure; the polymerization process is much faster and better at high humidity; foam does not fall off the wetted surface;
the bottle is shaken and turned over. Through a thin tube, a small portion of foam is applied to the back of the outer casing in a continuous strip. Work is carried out from the bottom up. Performing the operation in two steps will not allow the expansion foam to come out between the metal trim and the wall on the outside of the doors;
the work is carried out in two steps, which does not allow the foam, when expanding, to come out between the metal casing and the wall on the outside of the doors. 15-20 minutes after the foam has gained volume, the rest of the gap is foamed, but not more than half of the remaining free space;
after polymerization of the foam, the protective materials are removed from the doors.

Important: the foam protruding from under the box must be cut off immediately, and not wait for it to completely harden. At the same time, shallow oblique cuts should be left on the cut surface, which will relieve excessive pressure on the box and speed up the hardening process.

door frame

Work on the insulation of the frame of the box must be carried out before installing the doors. To do this, partially use the holes for the anchor bolts, and where they are not enough, drill with a drill. The diameter of the drill should allow the tube of the foam bottle to freely enter the frame.

It is desirable to maintain the distance between the holes by 45-50 cm. Drill from the outside of the ends. It is necessary to fill the interior of the door frame from the bottom up. Before work, the holes that go inside the box are sealed with masking tape (the door leaf is protected from foam).

vestibule

The technology for gluing the sealant can be seen in the work: "Do-it-yourself soundproofing of the front door." Here we dwell on some of the nuances that were not reflected there.

The seal profile is selected depending on the size of the gap. For large gaps, a seal similar to the Latin letters O and D is better. For gaps of 3-5 mm, a section resembling the letters V or P is suitable. And for small gaps, you need to buy a C- or K-shaped seal.

Doors inside

And now let's look at how to insulate the front door in a Chinese-made apartment. Immediately, we note that there are two problems that should be solved in a complex:

no stiffeners;
the filler is corrugated cardboard, which is nominally considered a heater.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

the handle and locks are removed from the door, while not only the external elements, but also the locking mechanisms;
the door is removed from the hinges and placed on the table or floor;
screws are unscrewed, on which the inner sheet of the canvas is held;
the sheet is removed and set aside;

the internal space of the structure is measured;
a lattice is assembled from a wooden block, which should fit snugly into the frame of the canvas. To stiffen the corners of the frame, a screed is made - metal corners are attached;
stiffening ribs are installed in the lattice: two vertical and three horizontal. When installing them, the main thing is not to get horizontal bars on the handle and locks;
at the installation site of the lock mechanism, a wooden block is cut out;
glue is applied to the metal in several places with dots - the more such dots, the better;
under the inner size of the canvas, with an overlap of about 10 cm, a plastic film is cut out and covered with metal. In places with glue, it is tightly pressed against the sheet;

Attention: under the expanded polystyrene (penoplex) the film does not fit.

a crate is laid on the film;
insulation is cut out to fit the size of the cells and placed in the cells of the crate. So that the material does not move during the operation of the door, it is glued to the film and wooden planks. In case of errors in size, if gaps have formed, they are filled with foam. The polyethylene overlay is wrapped onto the crate and attached to it with a stapler or glue;
in the places where the locks and handles are located, the insulation is cut out;
the insulation material, together with the lattice frame, is covered from above with a film that is attached to the tree;
the gaps between the crate and the frame are filled with foam;
the set aside sheet of the door leaf is returned to its place and fastened with self-tapping screws;
put the handle and locks;
the door is hung on hinges.

Doors outside

Some models of Chinese doors are non-separable. In this case, they are insulated from the outside. You can sheathe them with leatherette with a large amount of insulation between the door and dermantin, but in this case the problem of the rigidity of the canvas frame is not solved.

The problem is solved in the following way:

all protruding parts of the handle and locks are removed from the inside of the door;

the door is removed from the hinges and placed on the floor with the outer side down;
its width and height are measured;
a crate is made from a wooden block with a section of 20 * 20 mm - the large size of the bar will make it difficult to access the keyholes;
stiffening ribs are installed;
the grill is attached with screws to the door;
cells are filled with insulation.

The process is completed by finishing the inside of the door with a panel made of MDF, PVC or laminated fiberboard.

Conclusion

Insulation of doors allows you to improve living conditions in a house or apartment. In this case, the work must be carried out comprehensively, installing thermal protection:

on the technological gap;
slopes;
door frame;
vestibule;
door leaf.

The technologies are not complicated, the whole cycle of work can be done independently. Small difficulties can arise only when choosing a heater. For the technological gap and the door frame, the best option is polyurethane foam, slopes - a cement-sand mixture, a porch - a sealant made of rubber or rubber, door leafs - foam for internal insulation and batting for upholstery with leatherette.

Related videos

Often, owners of apartments and private houses have a question, how to insulate an iron front door? The fact is that although a metal door is a reliable protection against uninvited guests, the material from which it is made is an excellent heat conductor. This, in turn, leads to the fact that the structure freezes in the cold season, frost forms on its inside. Let's see if it is possible to insulate an iron door with your own hands, and what is needed for this.

The process of high-quality insulation cannot be started without a properly selected insulation. Fortunately, in today's market you can easily find what you need. It should be said right away that you can use both hard and soft insulation, the choice depends solely on you.

According to consumer reviews, one of the most popular heaters is mineral wool. There are several reasons for this: it is inexpensive, easy to use due to its soft structure, absorbs noise well and has memory, that is, it is able to recover in size after compression. Cotton wool copes well with temperature changes, protecting the house from the cold. The disadvantages include the fact that the material is soft and may settle over time. However, this drawback is easily leveled by creating stiffeners in the door structure, which do not allow the mineral wool to "slide" over a long period.

One of the most popular heaters is mineral wool.

A big problem for mineral wool is exposure to moisture, or rather condensate, which forms when the dew point shifts inside the door leaf. Stone wool will help to qualitatively insulate the iron door from the inside. It is not affected by moisture, so it can be used even for thermal insulation of the entrance doors of private houses. Otherwise, mineral wool will fit only for apartment doors with a heated vestibule (corridor).

Styrofoam is another popular way to keep the heat in the room. The material has a very low weight, which eliminates the weighting of the door structure. It is durable and wear resistant. Polystyrene does not need additional waterproofing, since it is not hygroscopic. In addition, it perfectly copes with the suppression of noise from the outside and keeps heat well. When choosing among various options, it is worth giving preference to expanded polystyrene, for example, Penoplex. It is much denser than ordinary foam, so with a smaller thickness (and this is very important!) It has the same properties as a larger foam. In addition, it is not recommended to use a simple foam, since it is capable of releasing harmful substances when heated.

Corrugated cardboard is a heater for almost all doors supplied from China. What can be said about this heater? The material has poor thermal insulation properties, but is very cheap, which makes doors with such insulation accessible to the majority of the population.

A rather expensive, but very effective material used in the insulation of a metal door is polyurethane foam. It is applied using a special tool. Due to its "liquid" structure at the stage of application, it makes it possible to fill all the cavities without exception, forming a single sheet. The disadvantage of this material is its price, so it has not yet found sufficient distribution among our compatriots.

Also, isolon is not too cheap a heat-insulating material. But the big advantage is its minimum thickness. The material is sold in rolls, so you can easily purchase exactly the length that you need. Thanks to the adhesive side, it is simply attached to the canvas, and this can be done without even disassembling the entire door structure, although in this case you will have to make overlays on top to hide the insulation. To do this, you can use a sheet of plywood or other material.

It is also worth noting that materials such as, for example, foam rubber, chipboard and others can be used in the insulation of entrance doors. But, frankly, the quality of their thermal insulation is almost minimal, in addition, they are highly susceptible to moisture, due to which the weight of iron doors also increases. This negatively affects their service life.

At first glance, it may seem that the process itself is overly time-consuming and requires special knowledge. In fact, even an inexperienced master can cope with the work. Having decided on the insulation material, it is necessary to remove locks, handles and a peephole from the door leaf. After that, you need to dismantle the door leaf and place it on a flat horizontal surface. Of course, you can work without removing the door, but this is extremely inconvenient and not always rational.

Even an inexperienced master can cope with the insulation of a split door

First you need to remove the trim from the inside of the door. Depending on the model, this may be an armored sheet, or it may be a simple overlay made of plywood or other material. Most often, the sheathing is attached to the door with self-tapping screws or riveting. If the door has an old insulation inside, then it must be removed by thoroughly cleaning the entire structure. If there are stiffeners in the internal space, then holes must be drilled in them at intervals of 40–45 cm and through them the cavities must be filled with mounting foam for thermal insulation. The diameter of the holes must match the diameter of the cylinder tube.

At the next stage, if mineral wool or other soft insulation is chosen as thermal insulation, a hydrobarrier is equipped with polyethylene over the entire surface. For expanded polystyrene, this is not necessary, since it already has good waterproofing qualities. Then the distance between the stiffeners is measured and the thermal insulation is cut with a small allowance. This is done in order to minimize the possibility of voids between the door structure and the heat-insulating material.

You can work without removing the door, but this is extremely inconvenient and not always rational

The next step is to lay the insulation in the cavity. For better installation, it is recommended to mount on "liquid nails" or mounting foam. All places of contact must be additionally filled with mounting foam, and if necessary, lay a layer of waterproofing on top. When all these procedures are completed, you can proceed to attach the lining. If the old material has become unusable, then it needs to be replaced with a new one, but which one is up to you. After that, you can install the door peephole, insert the lock and hang the door on the hinges.

If you have a question about how to insulate an iron Chinese front door or any other that is non-separable, then in this case the technique will be somewhat different from the above. To begin with, the canvas is removed and the locks, handles and peephole are removed from it. After that, the door is laid horizontally and the frame and stiffeners are installed on the inside and outside of the leaf. To do this, take a wooden block with a section of 20 * 20 mm. Moreover, the thickness can be more - it all depends on the thickness of the insulation itself. If it is possible to weld a metal frame, then you can use this method.

To install the frame and stiffeners, you need to take a wooden block with a section of 20 * 20 mm

The frame is attached to the surface with self-tapping screws, and all joints with the canvas are coated with mounting foam to prevent air and moisture from entering. When installing a metal structure, you can use a welding machine. All steps for installing insulation will be similar to those described above. From above, the structure is covered with a sheet of fiberboard, hardboard or other material that is securely attached to the door leaf. At the final stage, it is necessary to make holes for the peephole and the door lock and install the door in place. If desired, the surface of the door leaf can be additionally finished with leather, leatherette, forged or plastic lining, etc.

Advice! When attaching the frame or sheathing, use clamps. They will help to securely fix the structure, excluding its displacement.

Insulation of metal doors is not only the thermal insulation of the leaf itself. To effectively retain heat, you need to pay attention to some important points.

For a better fit of the door leaf to the steel frame, rubber seals must be used.

For a better fit of the door leaf to the steel frame, it is necessary to use rubber seals, which will help improve the quality of the thermal insulation of the doors. They are sold by the required footage, so before installation, you need to measure the perimeter of the door. The seal has an adhesive edge, with which it is attached to the web. To do this, the iron surface is degreased and only after that the rubber band is glued. It is noteworthy that with a wide door frame, the seal can be attached in several layers.

Please note that the tape itself comes in various thicknesses and types. Depending on the size of the gap, you can choose the desired option. For large gaps, it is recommended to use a seal in the form of the Latin letters O and D. For gaps ranging in size from 3 to 5 mm, tapes resembling the letters V or P are suitable. And you can get rid of very small gaps using a C- or K-shaped seal.

The thermal insulation of the door frame gives a great effect in warming. Since its dismantling, insulation and subsequent installation is too complicated a process, you can use the above method, which is used to insulate stiffeners. To do this, you only need a drill for metal and mounting foam.

It is important to take into account that when a one-piece door is insulated, its thickness increases, therefore, it should be possible to manufacture an elongated key so that the door can be opened without problems. The same applies to the snap-on square on the handle.

In particularly harsh climatic conditions, it is expedient to install a heating cable in the doorway, which is used to equip a warm floor. To do this, plaster is knocked off the slopes, tile glue is placed in the formed cavities, inside which the cable is mounted. In addition, the heating cable is laid on the floor in front of the door. Such a system eliminates the formation of cold bridges, which, in turn, reduces the likelihood of condensation on the surface of the door leaf, and, therefore, icing.

Now you have an idea how to insulate a metal door and you can do all the work yourself. High-quality thermal insulation will help not only keep the heat in your home, but also save the door from premature failure, rust and ice formation. Do-it-yourself work will help you save money and fill your home with warmth and silence.

In the Russian climate, door insulation has always been a hot topic. But if you can put a plastic block on the balcony and forget about the problem, then the insulation of the front door is still a sore point. Next, we will analyze in detail which insulation is better to use in a given situation and how different models differ. And most importantly, you will learn how to insulate the front doors in the house with your own hands, and we will consider both the doors in the house and the door in the apartment.

Warm front doors are one of the components of comfort and coziness in the house.

Before insulating the front door, it is advisable to figure out why it does not keep heat, because you will agree that it is useless to change the seals if the door leaf itself freezes or the box is damaged.

The entrance doors to the house and the apartment can be structurally exactly the same, but in private houses the doors go directly to the street, and in city apartments there is a buffer in the form of a relatively warm entrance. Therefore, the insulation of the door in houses should be much more powerful.

In cheap metal door blocks, the main cause of freezing is poor insulation inside the leaf. From experience we can say that if a door block costs up to 100 USD. then inside it will almost certainly have either honeycomb cardboard or soft rock wool mats.

Since the structure is located on the border of warm and cold zones, condensate will inevitably settle inside the box. Soft cotton mats, when water gets on them, “sit down” very quickly.

After a couple of years of operation, the fluffy cotton mass will turn into a thin flannelette layer, and such a heater for the front door is useless. Moreover, even if you dry this cotton wool, it will not become fluffy again, mineral wool is not restored, it only needs to be changed.

As for honeycomb, it was invented to fill inexpensive hollow boxes for interior doors. As a door insulation, it is practically useless, paper is paper, it deteriorates even faster than cotton wool.

The second problem is a skewed door leaf or box deformation. In metal door blocks, the skew of the door leaf is usually caused by the wear of the canopies. Of course, you can put a self-adhesive molding around the perimeter of the canvas, but in order to eliminate the problem, this is not enough, here you need to adjust or even change the hinges, by the way, there are instructions for adjusting the door hinges.

Sometimes, to insulate a door with your own hands, you just need to adjust the awnings.

In new houses, there is a problem of deformation of the box when the building shrinks. This happens especially often in wooden houses. If block and brick houses sit down no more than 2 - 3 years, then wooden ones can "walk" up to 5 - 7 years. You can eliminate the deformation with the help of wedges, but you will have to dismantle the slopes.

Another common problem is cold bridges. So that the canvas does not freeze in the area of \u200b\u200bthe castle, you need to mount a layer of insulating material from the outside. Also, the outer insulation will protect against cold bridges formed by internal stiffeners in the metal sheet, but we will dwell on this a little later.

Sometimes people put an expensive good metal door and forget to insulate it around the outer perimeter of the box. As a rule, this happens as a result of the negligence of the installers.

The fact is that in the process of arranging slopes, the sector directly bordering the metal door box must be filled with mounting foam, and everything else can already be made from any other material. Careless craftsmen do not want to mess around with multi-level protection and do whatever they want. As a result, the owners suffer later. There are step-by-step instructions and various options for arranging slope insulation.

A properly made and well-insulated box will not freeze through.

Nuances of door insulation

Do-it-yourself insulation of entrance doors can be different, but before we insulate the door, let's figure out how we will insulate it.

Choosing a heater

When it comes to the internal insulation of the metal door leaf, the most optimal and not expensive option would be PSB-C25 foam. Plates are selected according to the thickness of the door leaf and laid between the stiffeners. To minimize the formation of cold bridges and at the same time fix the plates inside the web, mounting foam is used.

Theoretically, extruded polystyrene foam can be used instead of polystyrene, it is much denser and has a higher level of thermal insulation. But the price, for example, for Penoplex is 2 times higher than for foam plastic, and with such a sheet thickness, the warming effect differs slightly.

Arrangement of warm doors with foam plastic is one of the most inexpensive and effective options.

Mineral wool as a door insulation is widely used. Its installation technology is similar to the installation of foam, but there is one important nuance - you need to take only high-density cotton slabs on the door. They do not change volume even when condensate attacks, while soft cotton mats shrink completely.

The price of dense slabs is about one and a half times higher than for soft mats. But there is no other way. Buying soft cotton wool, you will simply throw away money. In a couple of years everything will have to be redone.

Foam rubber can only be used when upholstering doors with leather or leatherette. Previously, batting or felt was used for these purposes, but both of these materials are able to absorb moisture, and there is not much use from wet insulation. As for the foam rubber, if you do not pour water on the doors, it will not tighten moisture by itself.

Now on the market you can find an inexpensive kit for door insulation. It is a self-adhesive foam molding that is glued around the perimeter of the box or door. Its quality is average, but the price is more than affordable. Usually such a seal is enough for 1 season.

Foil isolon is an excellent material for door insulation. It is a foamed polyethylene with a thickness of 5 mm, on one side of which a layer of foil is applied, and on the other, a self-adhesive film. This gasket is great for any doors. The presence of the foil in combination with the porous material creates the effect of a thermos.

Insulating wooden doors

To insulate wooden doors, in fact, there is only one option - it is to cover the doors with some kind of leather, and lay a foam pad inside. If you don’t have special ambitions and design requirements, then the easiest way is to buy a ready-made door insulation kit, which has everything you need. Sometimes on such kits they even write how to fit the door correctly.

The general upholstery scheme looks something like this:

Take the doors off their hinges and put them on a table or a couple of stools;
Cut the foam filler to the size of the canvas;
Turn the upholstery “face” down and fasten it along the edge of the doors;
Put foam rubber on the canvas and wrapping it with upholstery, nail it all around the perimeter with carnations;
Then you just have to nail the sealing cuff around the perimeter of the box, hang the doors in place and use.

To equip the seal around the perimeter of the door, special foam inserts are produced.

But the budget option looks, to put it mildly, not solid. If you appreciate beauty, then we advise you to pay attention to the upholstery method called "Carriage coupler". To equip it with your own hands is real, though you have to tinker.

The carriage coupler on the entrance doors looks more than solid and can be mounted on both sides.

Insulation of metal doors

Insulation of metal doors can be divided into 3 stages:

slope insulation;
Insulation of the canvas itself from the inside;
Installation of seals around the perimeter.

We have already mentioned the insulation of slopes. Any amateur can cope with the replacement of seals within 15 minutes. You only need to buy self-adhesive or plug-in seals, then pull out the old moldings and glue or stick new ones in their place. The process itself is shown below in the video in this article.

Replacing the seals on the entrance doors will not be difficult even for an amateur.

As for the insulation of the canvas, here you need to remove the inner decorative panel from the doors and fill the canvas box with foam plastic or cotton slabs.

Thermal insulation of doors with polystyrene foam is a proven and reliable method.

In the first case, the foam is glued and fixed around the perimeter with mounting foam, and in the second, cotton slabs are cut out a couple of centimeters wider than the section, after which they are tightly inserted into place. To be honest, we do not really support the use of mineral wool, it is easier and cheaper to install foam, detailed instructions are at the bottom of the video.

Output

As you can see, door insulation is not such a difficult task, the main thing here is to correctly determine the sector of arrangement, and the process itself is often not particularly difficult.

With a strong desire, any front door can be insulated with your own hands.

If the door block is thin or has gaps, the room cools quickly and a large amount of energy has to be spent on heating it. Even a novice builder can insulate the entrance wooden door with his own hands. To do this, it is important to choose the right materials, as well as adhere to the installation scheme of the seal.

The need for insulation

Wooden structures have low thermal conductivity, but are sensitive to changes in air humidity and temperature changes. The canvas can dry out, crack and deform. There are several indications that it is necessary to immediately carry out the insulation of a wooden door:

Slots appeared between the opening of the structure and the box. When installing the door, all gaps are filled with mounting foam. Under the influence of sunlight and other external factors, the foam deteriorates over time and begins to crumble.
The gaps formed between the sash and the box. This defect is the most common. The reason for the appearance of cracks may be the poor quality of the wood, errors made during installation, filing a swollen door, or prolonged operation of the structure.
Damage to the heater. The material used for thermal insulation should be selected taking into account the conditions in which it will be used. For example, mineral wool shrinks strongly due to dampness.

It is especially important to insulate the paneled door. This design has thin sections that can freeze through. They are first closed with rubber inserts, and only then the sealant is laid.

Material selection

To insulate a wooden door in a private house, it is necessary to prepare a sealant, as well as decorative trim elements that give the structure an aesthetic appearance. There are several types of materials intended for thermal insulation of the web:

Styrofoam - suitable for insulating the inside of entrance doors.
Foam rubber is a porous bulk material that can begin to crumble over time. To prevent spillage, it is covered with artificial leather from above.
Mineral wool - does not light up, retains heat well. The material quickly absorbs moisture and rolls, sliding down.
Foamed polyethylene (isolon) - has a long service life, prevents cold penetration into the house. The disadvantage of isolon is low resistance to sunlight.
Polyurethane foam - the material is applied by spraying. It adheres tightly to the wood, filling even the smallest gaps. To work with polyurethane requires the use of special equipment.
Expanded polystyrene - similar in properties to polystyrene, but has improved characteristics. Upon contact with an open flame, the material decays.

When buying a sealant, it is important to consider the thickness of the material. Thick layers make the sashes heavier, do not allow them to close normally, and too thin layers do not provide the necessary protection.

To create reliable thermal insulation, it is also important to close the gaps located around the perimeter of the web. . For this purpose, a material in the form of a tape is used:

Foam rubber strips are fixed with glue. Such a seal is subject to wear during the season.
Silicone tapes are resistant to moisture, have increased elasticity, but over time they become sticky and easily torn.
The rubber seal has a long service life. The material is resistant to mechanical stress, moisture and wear.
Thermoplastic - lasts the longest, but can be difficult to install.
Polyurethane strip - fastened with a sticky base, its properties are not inferior to rubber.

As a decorative finish that covers the seal, artificial leather is most often used, which is fixed with furniture nails with an extended decorative cap. From the inside, the canvas can be laid out with MDF panels with lamination. Genuine leather trim gives a noble look to the design, but high-quality material is quite expensive.

Features of overlapping gaps

Before you start laying the seal, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. It is important to check the condition of the door structure:

loosened loops must be fixed with elongated self-tapping screws;
if you plan to use heavy insulation, you need to install one additional loop;
align the warps of the canvas, correct defects;
change broken locks, handles, heck, door peephole.

When overlapping the seams of the door block, it is necessary to provide a vapor barrier. The gaps between the wall and the box are filled with mounting foam, which is easily destroyed by the resulting condensate. To protect the material from the outside, it is closed with PSUL tape, and from the inside - with vapor barrier tape.

Most of the heat escapes through the gap between the door frame and the sash. The tape used must match the dimensions of the gap. To securely fasten the seal, you must perform the following sequence of actions:

Measure the gap parameters, select the necessary tape.
Place a self-adhesive seal around the perimeter of the boat.
Fix the silicone tape with a construction stapler.

If the gap expands in some places, which is often observed when the door is deformed, it is necessary to deepen the groove and align the edges of the blade with a grinder. The deep groove is covered with 2-3 layers of tape. The seal is attached correctly if it fits snugly enough on the sash and does not prevent it from closing.

To achieve thermal insulation of the joints of the door frame, you can use leatherette rollers stuffed with foam rubber. For this you need:

measure the parameters of the sash;
based on the results obtained, cut out 4 strips 10 cm wide from leatherette;
the strips must be turned with the wrong side up and attached to the edges of the canvas;
in the area of \u200b\u200bthe edge of the canvas, leatherette is fixed with a construction stapler from one end;
foam rubber in the form of a roller is laid under each strip;
the free edge of leatherette must be fixed with a stapler.

Canvas finishing

In order for the wooden door to well protect the room from the cold, the method of double-sided thermal insulation is used. The sash is sealed both from the outside and from the inside, while material is placed from the side of the street that can withstand adverse weather conditions. For the inside of the canvas, foam rubber and artificial leather are most often used. Warming occurs as follows:

the canvas is removed from the hinges, cleaned of worn out upholstery and accessories;
a fragment is cut out of foam rubber, the dimensions of which exceed the parameters of the sash by about 10 cm on each side;
the insulation is fixed at the edges of the door with a stapler, the excess should be cut with scissors;
foam rubber is covered with a piece of artificial leather, rollers are formed from its free edges, which must be fixed with furniture nails;
the main plane is decorated with nails hammered at certain intervals, while the foam rubber bends beautifully between the fasteners;
hats can be connected with wire or dermantine tubes;
when the work is completed, it is necessary to install the fittings in place and hang the insulated door on the hinges.

If polystyrene or polystyrene is used as a heater, MDF panels are clad. As a result, the volume and weight of the sash increase, so additional hinges may be required to strengthen the structure. Foam boards are usually laid on the frame in the form of cells, and the remaining gaps are filled with mounting foam. To protect the insulated canvas from moisture, you can treat it with impregnation, varnish or paint. Drying oil provides good waterproofing.

Warming the doors in the country allows you to create a comfortable atmosphere in the house. To ensure that the seal does not have to be replaced too often, a material that is resistant to climatic conditions should be selected.