How to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house? Proper insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house. How to insulate the ceiling from the attic in a private house? Roof insulation without ceiling

Houses made of rounded wood or natural timber are rightfully considered the most comfortable. Their high popularity is explained, first of all, by the naturalness of the material and good protective characteristics.

But all types of one-story buildings are characterized by significant losses through ceiling structures. Therefore, you have to fight for warmth and comfort in a wooden private house. A correctly chosen method and a well-thought-out insulation scheme are the main components of success in this fight.

Methods of thermal insulation of wooden ceiling structures

Numerous technologies for insulating ceilings in wooden houses are divided into two groups according to the place of installation of the insulation:

• from the residential premises (from the inside);
• from the attic (outside).

Both approaches have their merits and demerits. So, insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside will save money, but will reduce the usable volume of residential premises, and the insulation laid outside will require additional protection against mechanical damage and more powerful hydro and vapor barrier, which will entail an increase in the cost of insulation.

In the classic version, the heat-insulating layer has the following structure:

• external vapor barrier;
• insulating material;
• crate;
• internal vapor barrier;
• sheathing.

How to insulate the ceiling?

All materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house are divided into three groups:

• loose;
• soft;
• solid.

The first group is used only for external insulation. The other two are used in both methods.
The most popular representatives of each of the groups, respectively, are:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam.

The easiest way to insulate is to finish the ceiling from the inside with foam. Its advantages include:

• relatively low cost of the material;
• light weight;
• unique vapor and moisture repellent properties;
• ease of installation;
• environmental friendliness.

Stages of work

First, a waterproofing layer is attached to the false ceiling between the beams. To do this, you can use glassine, plastic wrap.

Foam boards are fixed on top of the waterproofing with a special glue. After applying the adhesive to the insulation, wait 1-2 minutes and press it firmly against the ceiling. Plates are mounted end-to-end. If there are gaps between the heat-insulating products, they are sealed with mounting foam. It is better to additionally fix the insulation on the surface using self-tapping screws with washers of large diameter (10-14 mm.).

After installing the plates, a layer of glassine or other vapor barrier material is laid again. The whole process is completed by sheathing and decorative finishing of ceiling structures.

Modern industry produces foam sheets of various colors and textures. The front surface may contain an abstract pattern, which, if properly selected, will enrich the interior of the room.

Sawdust

Wood sawdust is a natural material and has proven itself for thermal protection of wooden houses. This technology is somewhat more complicated than foam pasting. The main difficulty lies in the preparation, or rather, the manufacture of insulation, which is a cement-sawdust mixture.

Preparation of the composition

It is better to use medium-sized chips. Tirsa for insulation is not suitable. It contains very little air. Sawdust should not be fresh. Raw materials are treated with antiseptic and antifungal compounds. The simplest solution to this problem is to soak wood chips in a solution of copper sulphate, after which it should be thoroughly dried.

The required volume of sawdust is equal to the planned volume of the insulation layer, the recommended thickness of which is 20 centimeters.

The process of preparing a cement-sawdust mixture consists of the following steps:

• in a spacious container (a trough with sides of 25-30 cm), “cement milk” is prepared by mixing water with cement in a ratio of ten to one, and mix thoroughly;
• sawdust is added to the resulting mixture, which, during the mixing process, should be evenly covered with a layer of solution.

Surface preparation

Before proceeding with the manufacture of insulation, you should prepare the area for its application. This preparation includes the following steps:

• dismantling of the attic floor;
• cleaning the space between the lags from debris and other foreign objects;
• processing of all available wooden floor structures with antifungal and antiseptic agents;
• laying a vapor barrier carpet (as insulation, you can use a dense polyethylene film overlapped on the logs).

Application of insulation

Further, the manufactured cement-sawdust mixture is scattered over the floor area and lightly rammed. Insulation must be evenly distributed between the floor joists. After complete drying, it will be possible to walk on the resulting coating.

One of the main advantages of this method of ceiling insulation is the low cost of materials. First of all, this applies to sawdust, which, having tried, can be purchased for free.

Mineral wool

A popular way to insulate a wooden ceiling with mineral wool. In terms of its thermal insulation characteristics, this material is superior to polystyrene. The installation process is relatively simple.

Vapor barrier layer

A vapor barrier is laid on the outer surface of the ceiling, freed from the coating, cleaned of debris and foreign objects. As with sawdust, thick plastic wrap will work.

Install it with an overlap of about 10 cm. The seams are glued with tape.

Insulation installation

Mineral wool is produced in slabs and rolls. When using rolled material, cotton wool is unwound along the beams.

The second layer of insulation is laid in the opposite direction, covering the beams and joint areas.

For additional fixation of the insulation strips, you can use nails, the heads of which should be slightly "drowned" in the top layer of the material.

Waterproofing

One of the few drawbacks of mineral wool, but quite significant, is its hygroscopicity. It is very easily impregnated with moisture, which has an extremely negative effect on its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the insulation layer must have reliable external waterproofing.

Lay it on top of the mineral wool overlap with gluing the seams.

Finishing layer

If the attic is not in use, then a cement-sand screed can be made over the insulation structure. When arranging residential attics, floor boards or laminate are installed.

Warming the ceiling of a private house is a relatively simple process. The performance of these works does not require special skills. With the desire and knowledge of the main technological points, everyone is able to cope with this task on their own.

Carrying out work on the insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold type of roof is relevant for regions with cold winters. Previously, when building houses made of wood, brick and clay, it was considered sufficient to protect against the effects of cold and precipitation. At the same time, the ceiling slabs were covered with low-density materials of natural origin. Modern technologies make it possible to effectively and efficiently insulate the ceiling in a private house from the outside.

The choice of methods for insulating the ceiling in the house

Based on the physical processes that take place under a cold roof, experts identify the main criteria for choosing thermal insulation materials. It should also be noted that the attic is classically designed with the possibility of ventilation. At the same time, in the summer and winter periods, the air flow rises.

To understand which thermal insulation from the attic is the best, consider the main ones:

• Sawdust. Vapor-permeable backfill was used until the 20th century. The materials used were sawdust, peat, needles, sand and expanded clay granules. Modern materials are ecowool.
• Vapor-permeable fiber-based materials. These include insulators with a low or zero moisture saturation threshold - polystyrene foam, polystyrene, XPS, plate foam glass.
• hydrophobic insulation. The material used is polyurethane foam.

Considering the structural features of the ceilings, it is important at the initial stage, because the choice of insulation method depends on this.

So, power technologies in which elements perceive loads are wooden beams. In most cases, when building low-rise households, concrete slabs are used, incl. concrete goods.

Steel forts are also used, but are rarely used in practice. However, the construction market is developing and the number of thin profile modular buildings is increasing. Due to this, steel forts are becoming more popular every year.

If beams or forts are used in a private house, then thermal insulation is located at one of 4 points:

• from inside the room on a false ceiling;
• from the side of the attic space with flooring;
• between beam ceilings over a false ceiling;
• between trusses, but from the underside of the deck.

Modern materials for insulating the ceiling outside the attic

The choice of materials for thermal insulation of the ceiling outside depends on the insulation technology and budget.

List of modern thermal insulation materials:

• hard, dense mineral wool slabs;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polystyrene brand of the highest category for strength;
• polyurethane foam;
• sawdust;
• expanded clay granulate.

It is noteworthy, but the extreme two materials are suitable for those owners of private houses who care about environmental safety. At the same time, expanded clay granules and loose sawdust are budget materials that provide natural thermal insulation of the room.

Stages of work on the insulation of the ceiling from the attic

Construction industry experts recommend choosing thermal insulation materials for cold roofs with high density and rigidity. The attic is a space in which it is necessary to create access for human movement. If you mount a fragile and inelastic insulator over the floors in the attic, then during operation it will collapse, deform and collapse. Thus, the service life will be short. When choosing insulating materials, strength and thermal conductivity are equally important.

The method of warming the attic from the outside, as a rule, consists in installing materials for thermal insulation between the rafters. The following are recommended as a heater:

• mineral wool in slabs;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane foam.

Important! When laying mineral wool, it is mandatory to use personal protective equipment - overalls, a respirator or mask, goggles, gloves.

Polyurethane foam is held with adhesive materials. To improve the quality of adhesion, experts advise lightly moistening the roofing elements with water.

Mineral wool is laid in slabs in increments equal to the rafter legs, so that in its pure form it is 50-60 cm. This makes it possible to facilitate the installation process if standard 60 cm wide slabs are used. heat insulator and wooden structures.

The joints between the foam and the truss system are carefully sealed with mounting foam or sealants. Finishing fastening is carried out with glue or nails. It is important that the adhesive does not contain solvents. Such products belong to the premium class (for example, Weicon adhesive-sealant, including high-temperature).

The order of installation of layers of heat-insulating "pie" is as follows:

• installation of the crate;
• a layer of vapor barrier film;
• laying insulation between the rafters;
• waterproofing layer;
• installation of additional wind protection;
• the second contour of the crate;
• roofing material.

First of all, the supporting structures of the roof are mounted. Then, hydro and wind protection is installed. After that, they proceed to the installation of the upper contour of the crate and lay the insulation.

The air heated in the room always rises and, in the absence of a high-quality insulation layer, can exit through the cracks in the roof to the outside. Losses of heat energy in this case reach more than 30%, so the owner should take the time and prepare for the cold in advance. Consider how and how the ceiling is insulated in a house with a cold roof, and we will also evaluate the possibility of doing the work yourself.

Insulating materials perform several functions at once:

1. Reduction of noise effects. No sounds from the street will be heard in the premises.
2. Significant reduction in heat loss. This allows you to save a lot on energy, spending less money on heating your home.
3. During the period of cold weather, cold bridges are not formed, in the heat, the insulation does not let excessively heated air into the house, which means that a comfortable temperature is maintained.

Features of choice and types of insulation materials

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in a private house begins with the selection of products. What you need to pay attention to:

• the lower the thermal conductivity, the better;
• resistance to moisture, temperature fluctuations;
• minimal flammability;
• long period of use;
• application safety.

Mineral wool

One of the most popular products for attic ceiling insulation work. It is applied both to external, and to internal works. It is produced from slag, molten rocks, broken glass, sand and differs in the type of raw materials.

slag wool

The raw material is blast-furnace slag. It is not recommended to use it in attic rooms with a cold roof due to the hygroscopicity of the product - slag wool will pick up water and quickly become unusable. The second minus is fragility, causticity of the fiber, which crumbles, remains in the air and can cause diseases.

glass wool

The raw material is a molten glass mass, from which long fibers are drawn, then formed into rolls, plates. The product has low thermal conductivity, water absorption is 0.55-0.8 kg/m2. The materials are widely used for insulating ceilings in attics, both on their own and in combination with other insulators. It is recommended to apply from the side of the attic, as the fibers are brittle, sharp and can irritate the mucous membranes of the nose and eyes.

Basalt wool

The raw material is gabboro-basalt rocks. The insulation is universal and is widely used for insulating rooms. Low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature fluctuations, chemical components, rodents, light weight, elasticity are the main positive qualities of the product.

Important! Basalt wool is often supplemented with a foil layer, which increases the reflectivity of the material, thereby reducing heat loss.

Expanded clay

Insulation in the form of dry granules of various sizes, made on the basis of natural clay.

On a note! The smaller the fraction size, the higher the density of the bulk layer and the lower the insulation properties. The optimal size of the granules is 4-10 mm.

Additional advantages: does not burn, has a long service life, retains shape stability, quality indicators throughout the entire period of use. Light weight allows the use of expanded clay in houses with dilapidated ceilings, to isolate areas around chimneys.

Ecowool

Raw materials - waste paper, paper production waste. Apply wet or dry. Wet - blowing the composition mixed with water, and dry - scattering ecowool over the ceiling area, followed by moistening and compaction. The advantages include environmental friendliness and lightness of the material, disadvantages - a lot of dust during operation, the need for high-quality protection.

It is important to observe the technology of laying out products. Plus in favor of ecowool - fine particles penetrate even the thinnest cracks, cracks and clog the surface, increasing the energy efficiency of the building, and the material does not interfere with air circulation, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room.

Styrofoam

The reduced coefficient of thermal conductivity is a plus, but the parameter depends on the density and thickness of the sheet. The downside is the combustibility of foam, so it is not recommended to use it for warming baths and saunas. When the temperature rises, the sheets release toxic substances. You can replace the foam with extruded polystyrene foam. It is a self-extinguishing and non-combustible product, but in case of fire it also releases harmful substances.

polyurethane foam

It is a sprayable material that requires the use of special equipment. The composition can be sprayed in several layers, has low thermal conductivity and is used on any basis for insulation outside and inside the house. An additional plus is low moisture absorption, the material retains its quality indicators at any level of humidity, temperature fluctuations.

When sprayed, PPU fills small cracks and crevices well, creating a dense and elastic protective layer. After hardening, the excess foam is cut off with a knife, which is convenient for adjusting the layer thickness to the level of the general plane of the attic floor.

On a note! When using PPU, there is no need for additional hydro-, vapor barrier - the material initially has all the necessary properties.

Sawdust

Inexpensive and high-quality insulation, which is most often used in combination with other materials, for example, with chips. Sawdust creates a dense layer, and chips - loose, such a heater has the best energy efficiency.

In order for the insulation to be of high quality, it is necessary to accurately calculate the thickness of the layer. In addition to loose material, manufacturers offer shaped pellets from sawdust compressed into granules. The product has one drawback - flammability. Therefore, protection from fire is needed, the combination of sawdust with clay, lime - these components reduce the risk of fire.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer

The indicator depends on temperature fluctuations in the region, roof material and other factors. For calculations, the parameters of the thickness of all layers of material that are already available or that are supposed to be laid out on the ceiling, the dimensions of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and temperature indicators are useful. The maximum load on the floors, the type of insulation is also determined. All data is entered into the calculation calculator, this program is available on the Internet, as a result, the desired thickness is obtained.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside - from the side of the premises

The ceiling is insulated in a wooden house from the inside in two ways:

• Bonding sheets of material to the surface. Additional fixation on dowels.
• Mounting on a pre-formed crate made of timber or metal profiles. The longitudinal elements of the crate are mounted in increments equal to the dimensions of the insulation materials.

Before performing work, preparation of the base is required. Consider how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house in stages.

Wood ceiling preparation

Preparatory work includes cleaning the base from dust, old coatings. Then you need to treat the surface with antiseptics, antiprenes and allow the base to dry well. Eliminate cracks, chips and other defects by filling them with putty on wood. If the gaps are large, then it is permissible to use mounting foam, the excess of which, after drying, is cut off with a knife.

Technology for mounting insulation on glue

The technique is used for plate materials. Adhesive compositions are selected depending on the type of product. For example, for foam sheets, it is not recommended to use compounds with solvents, they deform and melt the sheets. The optimal solution is cement-based adhesives or liquid nails.

The cement adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the base with a notched trowel, the element is pressed, adhered and the next sheet can be mounted. If it is liquid nails or mounting foam, then the mixture is applied to the insulation. Then the sheet is also pressed against the ceiling and fixed.

Additionally, the sheets are fixed with dowels with a small cap. 5-6 dowels are enough for one sheet: in the corners and in the center. The gaps are filled with mounting foam, which is then cut off at the level of the plane. Sheet basalt mineral wool is mounted in the same way. After performing the insulation work, the plates are reinforced with a mesh and can be puttied, lined with a finishing material.

Technology for mounting insulation on the crate

This technology of ceiling insulation in a private house requires the formation of a frame and is used for subsequent sheathing of the ceiling with clapboard, gypsum plasterboard.

Work algorithm:

• Mark the future frame on the ceiling. The pitch of the profiles is equal to the size of the insulation, but not more than 50 cm.
• The wooden frame is mounted on dowels, the metal profile can be attached to the ceiling on suspensions.
• Lay sheets of insulation, placing crates in the cells. The material must fit snugly against the guide bars.
• Fill gaps with foam. Then lay a sheet of vapor barrier on top, secure with a stapler or tape. The material is laid out with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

It remains to sew the ceiling with finishing material.

Insulation from the attic

The same materials are suitable for the work, the differences relate only to the layout technology:

1. Roll, sheet materials or mats are laid out between the floor beams. After that, they are sewn up with a board.
2. Ecowool, polyurethane foam are applied by spraying. A special unit is used.
3. Sawdust, expanded clay are scattered on the floor, previously lined with vapor barrier material.

Technology of laying slab material

Insulation in the form of mats, plates is laid out in one or more layers. The hemmed ceiling is insulated along the floor beams, and the rolling ceiling is insulated on cranial bars fixed on the same floor beams.

vapor barrier

On a false ceiling, the membrane is laid from the inside of the room, fixed to the base with brackets. The rolling ceiling is insulated with a membrane, which is mounted on a sheet of plywood or boards, fixed on a cranial bar.

When using roll materials, the following points are taken into account:

• installation without gaps between the material and floor beams;
• the width of the sheets is slightly larger than the dimensions of the cells or the inter-beam space;
• the fit of the sheets to the vapor barrier is tight;
• if necessary, two or more layers of insulation laying out, increase the height of the beams;
• when insulating a “cold roof”, it is imperative to use waterproofing, it is also overlapped, glue the joints with adhesive tape;
• on top of the waterproofing, a frame is formed from a counter-rail up to 4 cm high so that there is a gap between the insulation and the wooden floor.

Styrofoam, regardless of the variety, is mounted in the same way. After completion of work, a board or plywood is laid, fastened to counter rails.

Spray insulation

You will need equipment that pumps air and sprays the material onto a plane. Two types of material are sprayed: polyurethane foam and ecowool. When using polyurethane foam, vapor and waterproofing membranes are not needed, but if ecowool is sprayed, you will first have to line the base with a vapor barrier so that small particles do not enter the room.

Another installation option is to fill the space between the hemmed or rolling flooring of the attic with ecowool. To complete the process, you need to dismantle the floor board, run the hose and fill the entire area with material. With such insulation, ecowool does not mix with water, the spraying method is called dry. The same method is used when insulating the area under the waterproofing film: make a cut in the canvas, blow ecowool along the plane, then fasten the cut with adhesive tape.

The option with manually falling asleep ecowool is also not difficult: fluff the material, pour it onto a plane, compact it, and so pour layers with a total thickness of up to 10 cm. Waterproofing is laid out on top of the material to protect paper dust from water.

Backfill thermal insulation

Such materials include expanded clay, sawdust, pellets, and other loose granules. Only the technique of backfilling sawdust differs.

Expanded clay

The granules are laid out in a layer on the prepared surface, which is previously protected by a vapor barrier. The insulation layer does not require protection from water, but it is recommended to stretch a windproof membrane over the expanded clay to eliminate heat leakage. Then the floor is sewn up with boards, fasteners on floor beams or counter rails. If the supporting structures of the building are already weak, then expanded clay is the best insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house.

Shavings, sawdust

Several options for preparing the base are used: lay glassine, seal cracks, line the floors with thick cardboard. There is only one requirement - to seal all the cracks as much as possible, otherwise the insulation will begin to spill out through the gaps.

Insulation technician two:

1. Lay the sawdust in its pure form, having previously treated the materials with an antiseptic, antiprene. It is better to use a spray gun so that the processing is better. Sawdust and shavings should be laid as follows: first, shavings with a layer of up to 10 cm, then tamp the layer, and then sawdust. The layer is also compacted. The option has a significant disadvantage - rodents may appear in the insulation. You can avoid this by mixing materials with dry lime: for 5 parts of insulation 1 part of lime. Mix and spread out. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation (fastening on a bracket), then the structure is sewn up with boards.
2. Mix sawdust with clay, lime, cement. Proportions: for 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of another material. Mix the components dry, add water, achieving a consistency when the mixture in the fist forms into a lump and does not release water. After that, the solution is laid out on a base covered with waterproofing. Layer thickness - the height of the floor beams. The mixture is compacted, dried and a subfloor can be laid.

Advice! If gypsum is added instead of cement, you will have to work very quickly - the composition is not viable. Proportions: for 9 parts of sawdust 1 part of gypsum.

Knowing how and how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, you can choose the right material and easily do the work yourself. Do not forget about roof insulation in order to completely eliminate heat leakage from the premises.

The ceiling and roof account for, depending on local conditions and the design of the house, 15-40% of its heat loss. Builders for the insulation of ceilings, ceilings and roofs count the extra charge, because. the work is laborious and often it has to be done on weight. However, do-it-yourself ceiling insulation is quite possible without having a building qualification: the technology is not complicated and in most cases does not require special equipment. To help those who decide to warm themselves from above on their own, this article is intended.

The general scheme of ceiling insulation with modern materials is not very complicated in appearance, on the left in the figure: a vapor barrier (vapor barrier) does not allow moisture vapor from the inside to the insulation that can ruin it. The waterproofing membrane does not let liquid moisture into it, incl. and condensate in the attic, but releases water vapor to the outside, which nevertheless penetrates to the insulation. In negligible amounts, but, accumulating, it is able to nullify the insulation and spoil the structure of the building.

However, behind the external simplicity is a long evolution of insulation technology and many subtle nuances, without knowledge of which the work may be in vain. So will be considered next:

• Physics and features of insulation technology from above.
• Properties of modern insulating materials and additional coatings for them: roofing films, hydro- and vapor barriers; how to choose the right materials for insulation.
• The possibility of using traditional cheap insulators and heaters: clay, expanded clay, sawdust, etc.
• Schemes and methods of ceiling insulation: from the side of the attic, from the inside of the rooms; also from the inside from the side of the roof - for houses without an attic (eg summer houses and temporary houses) or with an attic.
• How to insulate the ceiling in a house with a cold roof and concrete floors.
• Ways to insulate the ceiling in utility rooms; primarily in the garage and bath.

Cold and warm roofs

A cold roof is called without the so-called. roofing cake: a multi-layer insulating building structure between the counter-lattice under the roofing and the inner lining along the rafters. The device of the roofing pie belongs to another topic - roof insulation, but then we will have to get to know it. Firstly, for non-attic buildings and attics. Secondly, in a private house, the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic and the roof are inextricably linked technologically and constructively, as can be seen on the right in the upper figure. Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic, along with the roof from the inside, provides the following advantages:

1. 2 layers of insulation 100 mm each, separated by an extensive thermal buffer in the form of an attic, are equivalent to 1 layer of the same material 270-280 mm;
2. From paragraph 1, savings in the cost of insulation up to 40%, and the total, taking into account the greater consumption of the film, by 10-15%, which allows the use of more efficient insulation materials;
3. By insulating the ceiling from the outside and the roof from the inside at the same time, you can get by with inter-beam insulation (see below), which is technologically simpler and more accessible to an unprepared amateur;
4. "Two-stage" insulation of the top of the building will allow in the future, if necessary, to additionally insulate the rooms from the inside separately without the risk of dampness of the room.

About mineral wool

Warming with mineral wool in the Russian Federation breaks all records of popularity: The material is inexpensive and easy to work with. This is explained primarily by large reserves of readily available raw materials and production technology that has been developed for many decades. The disposal of blast-furnace slag in the USSR had to be taken care of even during the industrial leap of the first five-year plans, and for a breakthrough into space, thermal protection of return capsules based on fibers from remelted heat-resistant rocks was developed. So the “modern” methods of producing slag wool and stone (especially basalt) wool are actually not so new.

Professionals especially like mineral wool: it does not need expensive special equipment, but there is a wide range of special fasteners and accessories for sale. As a result, the ceiling area up to 20-25 square meters. m, it is possible to insulate in less than 1 work shift, or even in 2-3 hours, this is who knows how. How it looks technologically, you can see in the video below.

Video: an example of ceiling insulation with mineral wool

After reading the following, you may have a question: where is the membrane between the insulation and the ceiling? It is quite possible that in this case it is not needed if the attic with the roof is already insulated; Why same hosts spread superfluous. More Attention should be paid to the following precautions when working with mineral wool:

• Established electrical wiring rolled into a bay and hanging on the wall.
• Judging by the fact that a temporary light bulb is used for working lighting, the room is completely de-energized, and its wiring is disconnected in the nearest junction box or on the inlet panel - this is absolutely correct and absolutely necessary.
• The master puts on a full set of personal protective equipment (PPE): special overalls, gloves, goggles, a respirator. For an amateur master, this is an important point, because. rather expensive PPE will have to be used once.

Here it is already clear that mineral wool is not without drawbacks: it is an allergen and carcinogen of group 3, i.e. suitable for residential premises, but it is necessary to work with it using PPE. In addition, which all manufacturers and sellers, without exception, are prudently silent about, under the influence of even negligible amounts of moisture vapor and its own weight, mineral wool gives irreversible shrinkage, as a result of which its thermal conductivity drops by 50% in 3 years: air gaps in the insulation are the same thermal bridges , like metal lintels, only based on microconvection. The gaps between the plates in 5% of the area of ​​the insulated surface increase heat loss by 30-35%

From this follows another unpleasant circumstance: the simplicity of working with mineral wool is apparent. When cutting plates / rolls to size, it is necessary to give an overlap (usually 20-40 mm) such that the plates fit tightly into the openings without sticking out, as on the right in the figure, but also so that further cracks do not go from shrinkage. Perhaps this is only on the basis of experience, because. material properties vary significantly from batch to batch.

Finally, the thermal conductivity of a completely new mineral wool significantly depends on its moisture content - in the direction of deterioration. An increase in air humidity in a room insulated with mineral wool from 60% to 85% leads to an increase in heat loss by 10-12%. Therefore, in the further presentation, focusing on mineral wool as the most popular insulation, we will give, where possible, recommendations for replacing it with something better.

Note: look also at the mounting jig (circled in green on the left in the figure). If you use a propylene linen cord instead of fishing line, then the jig can be left constant. Then special fasteners are not needed and, when mounted on a ceiling and surfaces with a negative slope, sagging of the middle and corners of the plates will be excluded.

Physics and technology of insulation

As you know, the critical factor for insulation is the dew point., the temperature at which this absolute, in g / cu. m of air, the content of water vapor in it corresponds to 100% relative humidity and condensation occurs. The dew point in residential premises is unacceptable: excessively humid air is detrimental to health, and for asthmatics and heart patients it can be a fatal circumstance.

For building structures, the dew point is no more useful: from periodic saturation with moisture, concrete and brick crumble, wood becomes moldy and rots, because. the resource of its antiseptic impregnation is not unlimited. Since it is impossible to drive the dew point out forever, it remains to let it “walk” on the insulation, ensuring its isolation from moisture vapor and ventilation. The easiest way to implement such a scheme of insulation is when installing a heater from the outside, pos. 1a in fig.

Ways to “fight” with the dew point during insulation

Sometimes it is technically impossible to insulate from the outside. Or additional insulation is required to the existing one. Analogue - in the old days, in especially severe frosts, they wore 2 fur coats: naked with fur inside, and on top of it - with fur outside. In this case, i.e. when insulating from the inside, its scheme is developed so that the condensate in the insulation migrates to the cold surface, and there it flows into the collection and is removed or evaporates to the outside, pos. 1b. In this case, the most insulating material is needed that does not lose its insulating properties when moistened. Such exist, see below.

Features of ceiling insulation

Features of ceiling insulation, firstly, is that it is impossible to organize a condensate drain. Even if the ceiling is sloping, does the water flow along the walls? Drained walls in construction are known, but their complexity and cost are such that it only remains to be mentioned here. Secondly, the warm (exuding water vapor) and cold sides of the ceiling in a low-rise building can also change places in the cold season, due to solar heating. Therefore, the ceiling insulation technology is primarily focused on ensuring that there is no condensate in the insulation. And if it has already formed, then you need to give it the opportunity to evaporate outward as quickly as possible, i.e. to the cold side.

cold overlap

On the ceiling of a material that conducts heat well, e.g. concrete, when insulated from the outside with loose material, 3 air gaps a, b and c, pos. 2a. Gap a, between the vapor barrier (vapor barrier) and the insulation layer - safety, in case of heavy condensation, which is possible on a cold surface. Gap a is necessarily ventilated, technically it is difficult to fulfill it, therefore it is desirable to insulate ceilings on concrete ceilings from the inside with massive, i.e. impervious to moisture, insulation. One of the practically important cases of this kind is considered below. Gap b is accumulating, it creates a partial pressure of water vapor, which ensures their diffusion through a semipermeable membrane that allows gases to pass through but retains liquid moisture. Gap c is the main working one, it is also ventilated, but, since it is located closer to the outside, it is easier to ensure its “ventilation”, for example, in the form of a slot around the perimeter.

Note: if there is a technical possibility and the ability to make the gap also ventilated, this will only benefit the insulation.

Warm overlay

"Warm", i.e. a ceiling that does not conduct heat well, creates a rather high barrier on the way of heat from the inside to the outside, shifting the dew point up into the insulation layer, if you look at pos. 2b. This makes it possible to do without gap a, which in turn simplifies the insulation of the wooden ceiling from the outside. Suddenly, the condensate at the border of the vapor barrier and the base will nevertheless fall out, then in a small amount, it will immediately be absorbed into the tree, and then, without bringing the humidity in the room to a critical level, it will slowly evaporate. Residents will most likely not notice this - wood keeps its mechanical and thermal parameters in a wide range of humidity.

Therefore, it is preferable to insulate the wooden ceiling from the attic, pos. 3: the base is covered with an inexpensive film vapor barrier (see below), a conventional waterproofing film without metallization will also go to the membrane. It is only necessary to arrange an air gap between the insulation and the membrane; its role has been discussed above.

Aweigh

The requirements for the vapor barrier are tightened if it is possible for water vapor to enter from free space, because. in this case, the intensity of their "attack" is unlimited. Then a vapor barrier is needed from a foil film, pos. 4, because no plastic is an absolute barrier to water vapor. Gap a between the vapor barrier and the insulation is also necessary, but now it is easier to provide it structurally. Press the vapor barrier against the insulation, as in pos. 5 is undesirable in all respects, even if the vapor barrier with the substrate, see below: both the work is superfluous and the insulation is worse.

Materials for insulation

Modern successes in building insulation technology are largely due to advances in the field of separating films (membranes). The “good old” roofing material and glassine with their counterparts still find application, but when working for yourself, the last thing you should save on films. And in view of the quality with durability, and in view of the fact that, having spent a little “above” on insulating membranes, you can save more on insulation. Therefore, we will start with membranes.

Barriers and membranes

As is clear from the previous one, separating coatings used in building insulation are divided into vapor barriers, or vapor barriers, which cut off liquids with their vapors, and waterproofing (membranes), which retain only the liquid phase. Vapor barriers, in turn, are divided into film, foil and foil with a capillary substrate (the so-called foil isols), and membranes are divided into single-layer film, microperforated film with double-sided vapor transmission, and the so-called. superdiffusion membranes that allow vapor to pass only in one direction.

Vapor barriers

Film vapor barriers are effective only polypropylene with a thickness of 60 microns. Polyethylene of any thickness, by virtue of its very nanostructure, is vapor permeable, no matter what anyone claims to the contrary. PVC under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity soon becomes brittle and cracks.

The basis of the foil vapor barrier can also be polyethylene, because. gases do not pass a layer of foil on it. On high-quality material of this class, the edge of the foil is felt at the edge of the tape, and it can be picked up by the corner with a sharp knife, i.e. foil is thick enough. Foil insulators with a substrate also have a layer of fibrous material (most often synthetic winterizer) on the back, i.e. the side facing the heater. If condensate falls out, it quickly goes through the capillaries of the substrate to the edges of the coating, so the foil insulation with the substrate must be mounted with lapels, like waterproofing the floor, going into the ventilation gap around the perimeter.

Note: in insulation structures on foil insulations with a substrate, the “insurance” gap “a” (see above) is not required.

membranes

Simple film membranes are common waterproofing, incl. and polyethylene. For insulation of ceilings, they are suitable only in heated rooms, because. in addition to vapors, liquids are also passed in a noticeable amount. When insulating from the attic, it is desirable to use microperforated films. Most often they are produced in 3-layer with reinforcement, on the left in the figure; are also used as coatings for greenhouses and greenhouses. To insulate the ceiling in them, it is good that the reinforcing mesh does not allow the film to sag much and ensures a stable gap height b.

Superdiffusion membranes are commercially available as roofing films, in the center in fig. Their outer side is smooth, metallized, designed for resistance to atmospheric precipitation. Vapors pass through it to the outside; the outer side is either marked, or it is outside and in a roll. The wind strength of the underlay films is provided by through reinforcement: for high-quality membranes, it is easily felt from the inside, and the film looks as if quilted, on the right in Fig.

Heaters

Materials for the actual insulation are divided into:

• Monolithic, or massive - dense, waterproof. The dew point can wander in them as you like without compromising the quality of insulation.
• Loose, fibrous and porous - are produced in the form of plates (mats) or rolls. The cheapest and most technologically advanced in comparison with the quality of insulation. They are hygroscopic, the properties of the material deteriorate from moisture, often irreversibly, so measures are needed to protect the insulation from moisture and its ventilation.
• Bulk / sprayed - an insulating layer is formed on the spot; high-quality insulation requires special equipment.

Monolithic

From monolithic heaters, foamed polystyrene is suitable for independent work. The attic and ceiling under a cold roof must be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. For insulation, EPPS is produced with grooved boards, which eliminates the formation of air thermal bridges; therefore, foam insulation schemes are very simple and inexpensive due to the low cost of membranes, see for example. in fig. XPS does not shrink, is not hygroscopic. It is durable, able to work as part of load-bearing structures, its insulating qualities are the highest, and outdoor durability, according to the latest data, is up to 100 years or more.

Ordinary granular foam can begin to crumble from strong fluctuations in external conditions in just a winter, but it is cheap, easy to process and mount on any surface with water-based tile adhesive or PVA. Its layer of 30 mm is equivalent to 100 mm of mineral wool, so it is advisable to insulate heated rooms with low ceilings from the inside with foam.

Foam and XPS boards do not bend, so they can only be mounted on open surfaces; to insulate the EPS roof, you will have to disassemble the roof. However, a more serious drawback is its flammability and the release of a huge amount of highly toxic gases when ignited. If a fire in a room insulated with polystyrene foam from the inside occurred at night, when everyone is sleeping, then the residents are actually doomed: it is possible to evacuate people under such circumstances only in some cases. Therefore, it is possible to use expanded polystyrene for internal insulation only in limited quantities and when it is impossible in any other way; see one of these options below.

Fibrous/porous

The main advantage of loose insulation is high labor productivity with them without the use of special equipment, which is why professional individuals are so committed to them, for whom time is money. Mineral wool and sheet / slab polyurethane foam (neoprene) are suitable for independent work from "rukhlyakov". Mineral wool was analyzed in detail earlier, and neoprene for warming large areas is too expensive, although it is not afraid of moisture and is comparable in durability to EPPS.

Sprayed and bulk

In terms of the combination of operational qualities, EPPS is almost as good as sprayed foam insulation. When frozen, they look like polystyrene, but are made on a formaldehyde-carbamide basis, so they burn poorly and emit little, not very toxic smoke. The mass forming penoizol can be fed into hard-to-reach cavities, and kraft paper or glassine is enough from the separators, so long as the foaming mass does not stick out through the cracks. However, penoizols themselves are not cheap, and are sprayed using expensive installations. To work with a foam insulation station, serious professional training is required, therefore, equipment for spraying foam insulation is not rented.

You can work with cellulose insulation or ecowool on your own: using a blowing machine for it does not require professional training, so they are widely sold and rented, from those transported by road to small ones like a backpack or suitcase. Ecowool as a heater is relatively little known in the Russian Federation, but compared to mineral wool, it is simply a miracle:

• In terms of thermal conductivity, 0.037-0.042 W / (m * K) is approximately equal to mineral wool; an ecowool thickness of 100 mm is equivalent to a wall of 3 solid red bricks. This makes it possible to get by with inter-beam insulation, see below.
• Up to a humidity of 20%, the heat-insulating properties of ecowool do not fall; on drying after limiting moisture, they are completely restored.
• Sorption moisture absorption for 72 hours in an atmosphere with 100% humidity - 16%.
• Does not shrink, does not puff.
• Chemically neutral, non-corrosive.
• Due to the presence of 12% antiseptic (boric acid) and 7% flame retardant (borax) in the composition, it is slightly flammable and almost does not emit smoke in an extremely hot flame, see left in Fig. below.

• Unattractive to rodents: glass wool is eaten, but ecowool is not touched. After 5 years of application in a house where mice are teeming, their moves in ecowool are not detected.
• Application is possible dry by hand on open horizontal surfaces, with wetting with a blower into hard-to-reach cavities (in the center and on the right in the figure), with wetting and the addition of 5-15% glue on vertical surfaces and with a negative slope, both manually and by spraying .
• High labor productivity when spraying moistened (which the pros should also pay attention to): the floor, walls, ceiling and roof (!) of a house with an attic area in terms of 120 sq. m are "blown out" for 1 work shift.

Note, for your reference: ecowool goes on sale under the names Cellulose Insulation, EKOFIBER AB, EKOREMA, EKOVILLA, EXCEL, ISODAN, SELLUVILLA, TERMEX. The world leader in production and application is Finland.

The most serious advantage of ecowool is that it is hypoallergenic and hypocarcinogenic., i.e. does not show any of these properties. The raw material for the production of ecowool is waste paper, but who, where and when, has something inflamed or itched from old newspapers? Is that in the brains of the content of the articles. But for the preparation of ecowool, the paper carrier, together with the content, is ground into a homogeneous gray mass.

Ecowool has three disadvantages:

1. Firstly, the cost per unit of its mass is about 30% higher than that of mineral wool. However, if we take into account the difference in the cost of PPE for mineral wool and the rental of a manual "blower", then the high cost remains approx. fifteen%. Let's also discard the cost of membranes (kraft paper on the warm side is enough for ecowool) - the cost of insulation is almost equal. And if you manually insulate the ceiling from the attic, then ecowool will cost less.
2. Secondly, ecowool must be prepared before use. The initial mass is sold compressed by 2.5-3.5 times, it needs to be fluffed up in some container, add, if necessary, water and glue. This is already bad for the pros; time is money, and blow molding machines that prepare the mass themselves are very expensive. But for an amateur and one-time work, this drawback is not particularly significant.
3. Thirdly, moistened ecowool must be applied in any way at temperatures above 23 degrees and air humidity up to 65-70% so that it can dry. This already seriously hinders its use: until the thunder breaks out, the peasant will not cross himself. In the summer, who thinks about warming? And the chills and bills for heating went - you can only apply it dry, far from everywhere and not always.

Note: if you have some ecowool left from work, keep in mind that this is an excellent material for papier-mâché crafts.

Expanded clay and foam crumb

Traditional expanded clay (on the left in the figure), the advantages and disadvantages of which are known, can also be replaced by a slightly more expensive, but better material - foam glass crumb or simply foam crumb, right there. Foam crumb is lighter than expanded clay, so it can be poured onto a weak base: fragile flooring, into drywall pockets (see below), etc. Its heat-insulating properties are higher, allergenic and carcinogenic were not found. An example of a two-stage ceiling insulation with expanded clay and mineral wool is shown in fig. below. The film membrane (bilaterally permeable, not roofing) provides vapor exchange between the insulation stages, which is necessary to avoid condensation in the mineral wool. If expanded clay is replaced with foam crumb, and mineral wool with ecowool, then polyethylene 120 microns thick will be enough instead of a membrane. In this case, the mounting jig is not needed, and the insulation from the inside can be used to the full height of the ceiling beams.

Sawdust and shavings

Waste wood processing is also a traditional heater. How to insulate the attic with shavings, see the video below. Ceiling insulation with sawdust is more attractive, first, because of their poor flammability. Secondly, at the nearest sawmill, they can offer you sawdust for free in any quantity, and even deliver it at your own expense.

Video: insulation with sawdust ceiling and floor in the attic

However, the availability of sawdust is the other side of the coin, they have a very big drawback: they can “oppose”, ferment. In this case, CH3OH vapors are released. Yes, yes, that same wood (methyl) alcohol, from which unlucky drunkards, into whose throats with a voluptuous gurgling everything that is not water, it would seem, go blind and die. Therefore, sawmillers are happy to get rid of sawdust: according to modern sanitary requirements, sawdust from under the sawmill must be removed continuously and immediately sent for disposal.

Meanwhile, getting rid of both disadvantages of wood waste is not so difficult and expensive. Approximately in the same way that ecowool is made safe. Proper insulation with woodworking waste is carried out as follows:

• Work is carried out in the summer in the very heat and dryness;
• In advance, in 2 separate containers (necessarily separate), strong solutions of boric acid and borax are prepared;
• Insulation is poured in layers of 3-5 cm;
• Each layer is abundantly sprayed with one and the other solutions alternately with the help of a stucco brush or a homemade sprinkler;
• The next layer is poured and sprayed after the previous one has completely dried.

As for sawdust, a reliable guarantee against their fermentation, even in a damp attic, is also provided by backfilling on a base of slab and clay, see below. To describe why, here, unfortunately, there is no way; the point is the unique properties of clay and the outer layers of coniferous wood. Insulation of this type is known in houses more than 100 years old. But, once again, unfortunately, it is difficult to find oily clay in nature, it is a valuable mineral raw material, and on sale it is not cheap.

How to insulate the ceiling?

From the attic

The main ways to insulate the ceiling from the outside, i.e. from the attic, shown in fig. It is preferable, of course, to get by with inter-beam insulation. In this case, please note that with a sufficiently massive ceiling roll-up, you need to make the lapels of the vapor barrier on the ceiling beams or encircle them entirely with vapor protection. The vapor barrier can then be film. If the ceiling is hemmed thin, then the jumps in its thermal resistance at the locations of the beams can be harmful. Then the foil vapor barrier is fixed from the inside between the beams and the ceiling sheathing.

With full insulation, i.e. up to the calculated power of the heater, the scheme on the right will be more laborious, but also more efficient, acc. sections of rice: the inter-beam layer is laid in rolls or slabs, and the over-beam layer is made of square mats apart, i.e. with offset seams.

Note: See also the section in Fig. bottom right. This is the same slab insulation with clay, suitable for all types of insulation without the use of synthetic membranes.

From within

No attic

In the private economy, in addition to the additional insulation described above, from the inside, most often it is necessary to insulate non-attic buildings "on the go", in the middle of the cold season. For example, they started to build, built a utility block or a temporary hut for a while, and then it turned out that they would have to spend the winter in it. Or the chickens have stopped laying, the pig has become sad for something and is emaciated before our eyes. There's nothing you can do about it, you'll have to insulate the roof.

A typical design of a warm roof is shown on the left in fig. Insulation lapels down are necessary to avoid freezing of corners. This system has 2 nodes, A and B (ventilated ridge and counter-rail, or counter-bar), which seem to be impossible to complete without dismantling the roof. However, the “bypass” scheme of node A is shown in Fig. top right. Here it is taken into account that, firstly, in light buildings from individual developers, as a rule, there is no ridge beam, and the ridge "beam" is made by knocking down 2 boards in an L-shaped manner. Ventilation holes are drilled 2-3 per span between the rafters. If the entire roof is only roofing material, then there is nothing to do so that the rain does not drip through the ventilation, you need to climb up and install some kind of ridge run with a gap, at least from bent galvanized strips.

How to deal with node B is shown at the bottom right. It uses the fact that in a small samostroy the crossbar (bearing structure) of the roof is not beamed. The role of the longitudinal beams of the crossbar cut into the rafter legs is laid on the boards of the lathing under the roof, and the spans between the rafters are free from top to bottom. In Fig., presumably, everything is clear: the roofing membrane will have to be applied in pieces, and the necessary power of the insulation is obtained, if necessary, with the help of backing bars.

In an apartment building

Self-insulating ceilings in an apartment building is possible only from the inside. Firstly, tenants do not have the right to work on the roof or in the common attic; Secondly, why do we pay contributions for overhaul? The roof is cold - you need to demand its insulation from the operator; does not want - all legal rights are on the side of the tenants.

Nevertheless, while there is fuss and trials, you can do something with your own hands to insulate the ceiling in the apartment. A typical scheme for insulating the ceiling from the inside on concrete is shown on the left in fig. Its main drawback is not at all expensive, subject to corrosion and far from always as effective as manufacturers say, special metal profiles for insulation with thermal seals-thermal washers. Not the same as thermal washers for mounting polycarbonate! Both can be replaced with a wooden crate. And not special materials for the thermal gap along the perimeter and the complexity of working with them.

The main thing is that 0.4-0.5 m is subtracted from the height of the room. This does not add habitability in modern apartments in any way, but what about Khrushchev apartments with 2.5 m ceilings that are most in need of insulation?

But here, too, there is an acceptable way out. Let us take into account, firstly, that in stone houses heat escapes through the ceiling, mainly in the corners. Whoever has not seen how the ceilings in single-family apartments get moldy and moldy, take my word for it. Secondly, block and monolithic houses are very resistant to fires. It is possible to achieve an extensive fire in them only by a well-thought-out malicious influence. Therefore, it is possible to use granulated foam in a small amount.

The scheme for insulating a concrete ceiling, worked out back in Brezhnevka, when drywall appeared on sale, is given on the right in fig. From the height of the ceiling in this way, only approx. 5 cm. It is quite difficult to fill the pockets of the corners along it, therefore this technology did not really take root even then: the corners are sheathed first on the short sides of the room and filled with insulation from the sides. Then the corners of the long sides are sheathed and the insulation is poured into the gaps between the laths of the crate. Styrofoam and horizontal filing are mounted last.

And now let's remember once again about ecowool. Will it be difficult to blow it into your pockets? At least through temporary technological hatches? The question is rhetorical.

Special cases

Attic

Attic insulation is actually the same special topic as roof insulation. Here it is appropriate to mention it again in connection with ecowool. See what is on the left in the figure, filled with red. In private houses, it is either impossible to climb into this attic without dismantling the roof, or it is impossible to work there. And you can blow out with ecowool instead of the recommended roll insulation without much difficulty.

Garage and bath

Garage roofs are often mounted on steel I-beams or channels. Reliable, the price doesn’t really bite, but what to do with such thermal bridges if you need to insulate? The diagram of the garage ceiling insulation on steel beams is given on the left in fig. Its peculiarity is that the insulation boards are laid in at least 2 layers apart horizontally and vertically. In this way, when insulating with mineral wool, it is possible to reduce heat loss to acceptable levels. If you use ecowool, then the cavities between the beams and between the sewing and the beams are simply blown out with it. Folgoizol is then not needed, enough kraft paper from the inside along the ceiling filing.

With a bath, things are simpler: the features of its design, without which a bath is not a bath, and the thermal / humidity mode of operation make it possible to develop a universal scheme for warming the ceiling of a bath, which is shown in Fig. on right. Feature: if the insulation is mineral wool, then it is certainly basalt, the other will not pull thermal loads and periodic dampening. If you insulate the bath with ecowool, then the peculiarity is that you need to cook the mass with the addition of glue.

One of the problems in a private house is heat leakage through the ceiling. If in an apartment building there is a warm apartment on top, then in our case there is only a cold attic above our heads, or even just a street. How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house, if for some reason it is not possible to do this from the attic?

Material selection

Let's start with the structure of the insulation. It will be multi-layered; we have to follow in sequence:

• External vapor barrier insulation;
• Crate for filling with heat-insulating material;
• actual thermal insulation;
• Internal vapor barrier;
• Finally, the ceiling must be hemmed with any finishing material.

vapor barrier

As a vapor barrier, glassine is most often used - an inexpensive material with quite acceptable consumer properties. However, if you need extra insurance against leaks, good old-fashioned plastic wrap is your best bet. It is absolutely impervious to water and has a service life of at least fifty years.

Vapor barrier sheets are laid with an overlap. If the ceiling is sloping (for example, in the attic), the film is laid in rows from the bottom up so that condensate cannot flow under the lower sheets. It is better to additionally glue the inner layer of the vapor barrier with adhesive tape. This will ensure absolute tightness.

Why are all these measures necessary? The worst enemy of mineral and ecowool insulation is condensate. Wet mineral wool greatly reduces the thermal insulation qualities. And indoor humidity in winter is always much higher than outdoors (see).

Please note: if we insulate the reinforced concrete floor from below, the top layer of vapor barrier is not needed. Between moisture-impermeable concrete and thermal insulation, there is simply nowhere for water to come from.

heat insulating material

Most often, two materials are used as insulation.:

1. Styrofoam. It's styrofoam. The slabs it is sold with are large enough; the recommended thickness for a temperate climate is 5 centimeters, for Siberia and the Far East - 10.

The main advantage is that this insulation is non-hygroscopic, it does not dampen. If so, with any fluctuations in humidity, the quality of the thermal insulation of the ceiling will not change (see).

1. Mineral wool (glass wool, ecowool, basalt wool and other variations on the same theme). The material is noticeably cheaper than polystyrene with the same degree of thermal insulation provided.

In addition, it is considered more environmentally friendly: mineral fiber does not emit anything into the atmosphere, and heated debates about possible harm to health do not subside about the properties of expanded polystyrene.

The debate about which material is better can also be endless. On any construction portal you can meet convinced adherents of both methods of insulation; Therefore, we will not impose a certain position on the reader.

Let's just say that the foam plastic changes properties over time to a lesser extent, not only in a humid environment: mineral wool caking over time. Even if perfect vapor barrier is provided.

If you choose expanded polystyrene plates as thermal insulation, the inner layer of vapor barrier is also useless. It is enough just to glue the seams between the plates with a wide adhesive tape (see).

Sometimes the foam is simply put on glue. From below, it is covered with a layer of decorative plaster - and the ceiling is ready.

crate

Two types of lathing are used: wooden and galvanized profile.

Wooden one is a little cheaper and a little easier to install. But the galvanized profile is not deformed by fluctuations in temperature and humidity, is not affected by the fungus and does not serve as food for insects.

Nuance: if we are talking about insulating the ceiling of a wooden house from the inside, you can safely make a crate from a bar or slats. Indeed, what is the point of making a suspended ceiling stronger and more durable than walls and ceilings? Of course, it is worth treating the material for the crate with an antiseptic.

Binder

Here everything is in your hands. The fastest way to hem a ceiling is with PVC wall panels. In addition, they are easy to wash.

However, drywall will give a smooth surface without seams; it is possible to build both a slatted ceiling and a suspended tiled one ... The choice of material is solely a matter of personal preference and the budget allocated for repairs.

Basic operations

As an example, consider the insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house for the case when overhead there are beams with a plank ceiling hemmed to them. The climate is temperate; we will be insulated with mineral wool 50 mm thick.

1. Armed with a stapler, we attach a plastic film to the ceiling. It will completely stop the flow of moisture to the boards from the room and extend the life of our ceiling. An overlap of a dozen centimeters is required.
2. We fill the crate. Hemming the ceiling will become PVC panels; a thin mounting rail is sufficient for them. But let's not forget about the thickness of the thermal insulation and take a bar 50x50.

We will fill it across the future panels with a step of 60 centimeters: in this case, the panels will not sag, and the mineral wool will not have to be cut in width. Most rolls are this size.

1. We fill the gaps between the bars with mineral wool. It is better to wear textile gloves and protect your eyes and nose: cotton wool fibers are volatile.

1. Again armed with a stapler, we hem the crate from below with a second layer of polyethylene. Additionally, we glue the joints of the canvases with adhesive tape: the greater the tightness we provide, the longer the insulation will retain its properties.
2. Finally, the last stage: we hem the wall panels from below. We will not focus on how this is done: installation methods have already been described hundreds of times.

Hemming the panels to the wooden crate is a more than simple task.

Conclusion

Our goal is achieved: the room is insulated from the inside. Winter is not to be feared. The downside was that we lost about six centimeters of ceiling height. Unfortunately, the victim was inevitable... Good luck with the repair!