From 25 to 40% of the heat is lost through the non-insulated coating of the house. A prudent owner, seeking to optimize heating costs, understands that roof or attic floor insulation is a direct way to save money. In this article, we will look at how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof.
There are two ways to insulate an attic floor:
- Insulated the ceiling from the side of the premises.
- Insulating the ceiling from the side of the cold attic.
Professionals consider ceiling insulation from below not the best way out for the following reasons:
- Forced ventilation will be required.
- To insulate the ceiling, effective board materials with a high cost are needed.
- It is technically difficult to carry out the work.
The advantage of the method is the performance of work in any weather.
Thermal insulation of the floor from above has the advantages:
- It is more competent, from the point of view of building thermal physics.
- Wider choice of heaters.
- The work is much easier to do.
The disadvantage is the dependence on the outside temperature when working with some heaters.
The choice of insulation
When choosing how to insulate the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account the following indicators:
- Thermal resistance.
- Vapor permeability.
- Hygroscopicity.
- Flammability group.
- Volume weight.
- Resistance to UV radiation.
- Durability.
- Safety for human health.
- Price.
- The possibility of laying without involving a team of builders and renting special equipment.
To insulate the ceiling from below, you can use the following materials:
- mineral wool insulation - rigid, semi-rigid slabs or soft mats based on basalt or stone fiber;
- expanded polystyrene boards - foamed or extruded;
- polyurethane foam boards;
- linen slabs.
Insulation from the attic provides the widest choice of materials. This:
- All types of mineral wool insulation - from stone, basalt wool, slag wool, glass wool.
- Thermal insulation materials from flax - plates and mats.
- Expanded polystyrene boards - foamed, extruded, graphite-containing.
- Polyurethane thermal insulation - plates and liquid polyurethane foam.
- Bulk insulation - expanded clay, vermiculite, gas silicate.
- Sprayed liquid compositions - ecowool, polystyrene.
- Environmentally friendly natural insulation - sawdust, straw, reeds, clay.
Mineral wool insulation
These heaters are effective, non-flammable, vapor-permeable, resistant to sunlight, durable, but absorb moisture and lose their thermal insulation qualities. When laying on top of the ceiling or insulating the ceiling, a vapor barrier of the material from below and a waterproofing from above are required.
Slag wool is a very cheap TIM, but it is made from blast furnace waste and may contain residual radiation. Before buying, radiation control of the material is required.
Glass wool is effective, but during installation, its threads form dust that is dangerous for the respiratory system and skin, and its use in housing is highly undesirable.
Linen thermal insulation
TIM from flax waste is an environmentally friendly material, similar to mineral wool in terms of performance, but has an undeniable advantage - even absorbing up to 30% moisture, it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities.
The only negative is the cost is higher than that of the miniplate.
Expanded polystyrenes
Various types of polystyrene foam are an excellent heat-insulating material that has two unpleasant qualities - rodents settle in it, and therefore it requires special protection, and in a fire it emits toxic smoke, although it does not support combustion. The use of expanded polystyrene indoors requires protection with non-combustible cladding.
polyurethane foam
Plates and sprayed foam insulation are by far the most effective heat insulator: they do not absorb moisture, are not afraid of rodents, and are environmentally friendly. Among the disadvantages are the high cost and the need to rent special equipment for spraying.
Bulk insulation
Expanded clay, vermiculite, gas silicate - non-combustible bulk heat-insulating materials, widespread everywhere, with low cost. Disadvantages - absorb moisture, insufficiently effective and heavy.
For thermal insulation of the attic floor in a residential building in central Russia, it will be necessary to pour a layer 40 ... 50 cm thick with a volumetric weight of 200-300 kg / m3. The reinforced concrete slab will withstand such a load, and the overlap along the wooden logs will have to be strengthened.
Liquid heaters
Ecowool is used for thermal insulation of the attic quite often - the material has proven itself well, although it requires special equipment for spraying.
The introduction of flame retardants into the composition of ecowool and polystyrene reduces the combustibility of materials, which makes them safer.
Natural heaters
Natural heaters of local origin, such as straw, reeds, flax, sawdust, clay do not cost anything, or cost a penny, this is their main advantage. The use of these materials will not harm nature and humans, but they are ineffective - you have to lay a thick layer, rot, mice start up in them, they are short-lived.
Use of these materials is desirable, as a last resort.
Underfloor ceiling insulation
How to properly insulate the ceiling in the house? There are several ways to perform insulation from below:
- With the help of a wooden crate.
- On anchors with subsequent plaster on the grid.
- On anchors with plasterboard lining.
The layered construction with the crate device looks like this:
- Bearing beams of the attic floor.
- Draft floor.
- A waterproofing membrane fixed to the beams with a crate mounted in a direction perpendicular to the beams.
- In the cells of the crate, the plates of the insulating material are placed on the glue.
- A layer of vapor barrier is attached to a double-sided vapor-permeable adhesive tape.
- The filing is carried out with plasterboard, chipboard, OSB or clapboard.
For insulation from the bottom of a reinforced concrete slab, you can use the second technology:
- Anchors are shot on the ceiling with dowels in a checkerboard pattern after 300 mm.
- Insulation plates are wrapped with vapor barrier material, fixing the edges with double-sided vapor-permeable tape.
- The insulation is put on the anchors, the anchors are bent.
- Mount the plaster mesh, tying it with wire to the anchors.
- Perform plaster on the grid.
The third technology differs from the second one in that after the installation of the heat insulator, guides of the metal frame are attached to the anchors for plasterboard sheathing.
Attic floor insulation technologies from above
In the case of insulation from the attic side, the structure looks like this:
- Floor load-bearing beams, if necessary, increasing the height of the beams by installing additional wooden bars.
- Draft floor.
- Laying the vapor barrier layer with a continuous sheet, with an overlap of 10 ... 15 cm, with fastening on a double-sided vapor-permeable adhesive tape.
- Laying TIM - slab, mats or bulk.
- The waterproofing layer is a membrane or a material based on a bitumen-polymer.
- Air gap - 40 mm.
- Laying of walking decks.
The height of the load-bearing floor beams in this structure must be at least 40 mm higher than the thermal insulation.
Insulation with bulk material on the floor will have the following form:
- Floor slab.
- Vapor barrier.
- Bulk thermal insulation.
- Polyethylene film.
- Boardwalk.
You can insulate the attic floor with a mixture of clay and sawdust. To keep the heat in the house, you will need a TIM layer 20 ... 30 cm thick. To prepare a sawdust-clay mixture, you will need a concrete mixer.
- 4 ... 5 buckets of clay are poured into a barrel of water or into another container, stirred until completely dissolved;
- the mixture is poured into a concrete mixer, sawdust is added;
- stir by adding water;
- the mixture is poured onto a layer of vapor barrier material.
Drying, the mixture may crack, the cracks are covered with clay.
Conclusion
There are a large number of technologies for warming cold ceilings; a variety of materials can be used for work. There is nothing difficult or impossible in insulating the ceiling with your own hands, although an assistant may be needed.
In order to keep the heat in the room, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation measures. 15% of all heat loss occurs through the ceiling. Before you carry out the insulation of your ceiling in a private house with your own hands, you need to correctly select the material and familiarize yourself with the technology of work. Activities can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of insulated ceiling.
Ways to perform work
The ceiling insulation technology assumes the existence of only two installation options:
When choosing between them, several factors are taken into account. The article is about holding events in a private house, it is worth remembering that the insulation in the apartment is carried out according to the same principle, but the work can only be done from below, since the insulation from above affects the upper apartment or attic - the common house area.
Outside ceiling insulation scheme
Most often, in apartment buildings, insulation is required to increase the sound insulation of interfloor floors or thermal insulation of the ceiling of the last floor.
In a private house, the choice of method is limited only by the decision of the owner of the house. Carrying out measures for interfloor ceilings (as sound insulation) is not required, they carry out thermal protection of the ceiling of the last floor in the presence of an unheated attic. It is worth noting that a competent option is the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the outside, from the side of cold air. This has the following advantages:
The phased process of insulating the ceiling with mineral wool
- in addition to the room, the floor structure is insulated, which increases its service life;
- ceiling insulation from the attic side does not reduce the height of the upper floor;
- the work does not require serious efforts (when fixing the insulation from below, you must constantly keep your head up and use a ladder or other means of access);
- with different methods of thermal insulation measures, the location of the dew point (condensation point) changes, when warmed from the side of warm air, it enters the thickness of the floor pie, which can cause problems in the future;
- the method does not affect the interior decoration of the premises, if in the future it is necessary to replace the insulation, the work can be done quickly and without additional financial costs.
If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated from the inside.
Insulation from the attic
Thermal protection from the side of cold air is best carried out with materials that have a high density and rigidity. An attic is a space in which it is necessary to provide access for the passage of a person. If compressible, fragile material is laid on top of the attic floor, it may crumple, deform or collapse and cease to perform its functions. When choosing a heater for this method, strength is as important as thermal conductivity.
The scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the attic
Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work:
- The attic space is cleared of debris and dirt. The insulation must lie on a clean and even base.
- The space is measured, the required amount of thermal insulation material is calculated.
- Depending on the material chosen, a vapor barrier layer is provided. It must be laid on the side of warm air relative to the heat insulator. Not all materials need vapor barrier, if the insulation is resistant to moisture and has a low moisture absorption coefficient, no additional measures are required.
- Laying is carried out in two ways, the choice between which depends on the strength of the purchased material. If thermal protection is carried out with a high-strength insulation, it can be laid under a cement-sand screed. To increase the reliability of the structure, the screed is taken with a thickness of at least 2 cm and is additionally reinforced with wire reinforcement with a diameter of 3-4 mm. If the strength of the heat insulator is not high enough, installation is carried out between the lags. The presence of a wooden frame allows you to remove the load on the floor of the room from the insulation and transfer it through the bars to the ceiling.
- After installation of the heat-insulating layer, waterproofing is provided. It will prevent the insulation from getting wet from the outside. Water in the attic can appear during roof leaks or liquid spills, waterproofing in case of unforeseen situations protects the heat-insulating layer from loss of performance. The simplest material for waterproofing is polyethylene film.
- The next step is the installation of the floor pie.
Warming from the inside
Before you insulate the ceiling, choose a fairly light material. In contrast to the installation of thermal protection from the outside, the insulation of the ceiling from the inside does not require the use of durable heat insulators. In this case, they try to choose the insulation that will hold securely on a horizontal surface. The smaller all the layers, the easier it is to mount it.
An example of correct and incorrect installation of insulation
To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in this case, you need to familiarize yourself with the order of work:
- As with the previous method, first the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Calculate the required amount of material.
- Next, the installation of a wooden or metal frame is required. If during installation from the outside it can be laid without additional bars or boards, then when installing from below, it is better to ensure reliable fastening. The ceiling structure is subsequently attached to the frame. As frame elements, wooden boards or bars or an aluminum ceiling profile are used.
- The insulation is placed between the guides. Mounting can be glued to the ceiling or using fasteners to the frame. Both of these options are often used together.
- The final stage is the installation of the ceiling.
Materials for insulation
The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the method of insulation and the financial capabilities of the owner of the house. To answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling, you need to distribute the materials that can be used for each case.
For the top method use:
- rigid mineral wool boards (for more details, see the article “Insulation of your ceiling in a private house with mineral wool”);
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- polystyrene of high strength grades, placed between the lags or under a reinforced screed;
- polyurethane foam (only between the lags);
- sawdust;
- expanded clay.
The last two options are suitable for those who care about the environmental component of construction. Expanded clay and sawdust are an inexpensive and natural option for thermal insulation.
Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house: the process
In a private house, ceiling insulation is not in last place. We will tell you how to insulate the ceiling with your own hands, both inside and out.
How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof - materials and technologies
Roofs, which are called "cold", are erected most often, because in order to create a warm attic, additional funds, time, effort will be required, and the weight of the structure will be much higher.
Not every homeowner can afford such a luxury. Therefore, most often a rafter system is made, covered with waterproofing and covered with roofing material.
With this design, the main emphasis on thermal insulation should be placed on the ceiling of the living space (and not only to prevent cold air from entering the street, but also to reduce noise transmission and protect from heat in the summer).
There are several ways to insulate the ceiling under a cold roof. It is worth considering different materials and technologies.
Two methods of insulation are fundamentally different from each other:
From the side of the attic
The most correct, from a construction point of view, is the first option. When insulated from the side of the attic, wet steam gets the opportunity to leave the house and does not freeze inside the building materials of the ceiling itself. And this means that there will be no mold, fungus, freezing. The air in the house will be lighter.
The attic method allows the use of inexpensive bulk insulation, and also sprayed modern building materials are used.
From the side of the room
You can hem the ceiling from below if for some reason it is not possible to use the attic method (if the attic is not available, if its ceiling cannot be dismantled, etc.). The downside of the method is that moisture can no longer freely leave the house. It will accumulate in the layers of insulation, and cause dampness, mold, and rapid destruction of wooden floors.
The installation work of the filing from the side of the room involves the construction of a metal or wooden frame (longitudinal logs), between which a sheet insulation is laid (most often, dense mineral wool, or extruded polystyrene foam, "Penoplex").
frame for insulation
Insulation plates need to be well fixed, work “overhead” is quite laborious, and the equipment of builders dealing with mineral wool should be as closed as possible.
The choice of material depends on whether the ceiling will be insulated from the attic or from the house:
For the attic they use: expanded clay, sawdust, slag, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool (including glass wool, basalt, slag), ecowool, foam glass, polyurethane foam ("Ecotermix", for example). It is convenient to work on a horizontal surface, and the choice of materials is wide - from loose to sprayed.
Bulk materials
Expanded clay - chosen because of its availability (as well as incombustibility and natural origin). However, expanded clay granules do not hold heat well, and a rather thick layer of this insulation is required, which will add weight to the entire structure (especially if expanded clay is covered with a cement screed).
If you already buy expanded clay, you should choose larger granules - they have more air cavities, which means that the insulating properties are better.
The scheme of insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay
Sawdust have more advantages than expanded clay. They retain heat better, are lighter and for many become a way out if they are available for the type of activity. But mice and other living creatures settle in the material with pleasure, and over time, the properties of the heat insulator decrease, they need to be constantly poured.
Do not use fresh sawdust for insulation! They should dry out for at least a year. In the future, you need to protect the layer of thermal insulation from getting wet. The smaller the fraction of sawdust, the worse the thermal conductivity, so the preference is for medium-sized sawdust mixed with slag.
Ecowool - it is applied professionally with the help of special equipment, but there is also a free manual method, when loosened ecowool is “thrown” on the ceiling on its own. The material is environmentally friendly, lightweight, perfectly performs the functions of thermal insulation and has an average degree of flammability (treated with fire retardants).
Styrofoam- one of the most used materials for insulation from the attic. Expanded polystyrene is lightweight, holds heat well, and is relatively inexpensive. It is very convenient to work with plates, the work is carried out quickly. For sealing joints most often used mounting foam.
The main disadvantage is that the foam plastic burns perfectly and, when burned, emits poisonous smoke and drips.
It is also necessary to take into account the fact that ordinary foam plastic has a low compressive density; after installation, you cannot walk on it, otherwise the surface can be easily damaged.
To use such an attic, the foam will need to be covered with another layer (OSB boards, chipboard, boards, etc.).
For the installation of foam, two methods can be used:
The first is suitable for a flat smooth surface. Special compounds are used that can be applied to the foam sheet itself around the perimeter. It is better to arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. The resulting cracks at the joints are filled with foam. For the best effect, it is better to lay two layers of thinner foam than one thick one.
Using the frame method, you need to accurately verify the distance between the lags, since the foam does not bend and crumbles when trimmed.
Extruded polystyrene foam - the same foam, but produced using a different technology, it is denser in compression and more resistant to combustion.
Mineral wool. Great for dry attics. Mineral wool is heavier than polystyrene, but lighter than expanded clay. It does not burn well and is inexpensive and well insulates the room.
It is necessary to work with mats carefully, since their small particles crumble, get on the skin and mucous membranes and can cause serious harm to health.
Mineral wool mats must be covered with a clean, dense layer so that you can walk in the attic in the future.
In addition, it would not be superfluous to protect the insulation from possible moisture ingress by laying a layer of vapor barrier membrane on top (the joints of the layers are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and the seams are glued with adhesive tape).
The insulation and the membrane fit snugly together, and between them and the finishing layer of the floor, you need to make a ventilation gap. If the height of the lag no longer allows this, the counter rails are nailed and the finishing flooring is already made on them.
Spray materials
Polyurethane foam (or polyurethane foam of various brands) is a modern way to insulate the ceiling quickly and efficiently.
The use of polyurethane foam significantly speeds up the installation process (6-8 times), it does not require many hands, and the result will be a thin, light layer of insulation without cold bridges, which will not lose its properties over the years.
When expanding, the PPU fills all the gaps. The coating becomes dense, you can walk on it.
Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture and rodents.
The better to insulate the ceiling in a private house
So, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a private house? The best solution, in this case, would be dense mineral wool slabs.
To fix them over your head, you will need the construction of a wooden (or metal) frame. The distance between the guides of the frame should correspond to the width of the insulation plate with a slight deficit so that it fits snugly into the spacer.
In addition, the cotton wool must be between two layers of waterproofing film.
Mineral wool on the frame
For reliable fixation of the plate to the ceiling, you can use a special adhesive composition, as well as special dowel-nails with wide caps.
On the protruding beams of the frame, the finishing layer of the ceiling is attached for finishing. It is good if there is a small air gap between the insulation and this layer.
Roof work
If the attic is planned to be made residential, it will be necessary to insulate the pitched roof itself from the inside (non-residential attics are better ventilated and last longer if they are insulated along the floor).
The work here is one of the most problematic, due to the height and inaccessibility of many sites.
As a material, one of the following is usually selected:
- Expanded polystyrene (extruded or plain).
- Mineral wool (preferably denser mats, as well as mats with a foil layer).
- Sprayed polyurethane foam (the most convenient, fast and efficient).
The layout of building materials can be as follows:
- roof;
- crate, which will provide an air gap;
- a membrane that allows steam to pass in one direction (only for mineral wool);
- insulation;
- vapor barrier;
- slats;
- clean finish.
For polyurethane foam, none of this is needed.
It is sprayed directly onto the roofing material and covered with a finishing deck.
If electrical wiring passes through the attic, it must either be placed in a special casing, or put on top of the heat insulator layers.
Conclusion
Attic insulation work may take longer than planned, so carefully prepare everything in advance, calculate and think over the sequence. Especially if it is planned to insulate the pitched roof and work with mineral wool.
How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof
What are the ways to insulate the ceiling under a cold roof, in an unheated attic. Choose a material for attic insulation: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, foam plastic, sawdust, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool - which is better. Ways, technologies of installation.
Warm ceiling: materials for insulation and work procedure
- The first step in this difficult process is the choice of insulation.
- Types of ceiling insulation
- Useful little things
- Insulation of the ceiling from the outside
- Foam insulation
- Tips for the best ceiling insulation
Every owner of a private house in the very first winter understands that it is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the inside, since it is from the side of the roof that the largest heat leakage occurs. The explanation for this is simple: according to the laws of physics, heated air rises to the ceiling, where it disappears through the ceiling.
The scheme of insulation and soundproofing of the attic.
Heat losses from this sometimes reach 60%, and more than half of the energy spent on heating is wasted. So the ceiling must be insulated. To do this, you will need the following materials and tools:
- vapor barrier;
- sheet foam of the required thickness and density, or;
- mineral wool (layers or in a roll);
- glue;
- boards or iron profile for the frame;
- self-tapping screws;
- drywall;
- screwdriver;
- mounting foam for sealing cracks.
The first step in this difficult process is the choice of insulation.
Ceiling insulation scheme.
Now the most optimal option for thermal insulation is mineral wool. It is easy to work with, it is inexpensive, it holds heat very well and, at the same time, is fireproof. It is no longer advisable to use materials that were used before to insulate the roof. Of course, it is cheap and quite simple to cover the floor in the attic with materials such as expanded clay, dry grass, fill it with slag or sawdust. But such materials do not hold heat well; in terms of fire safety, they also do not meet the standards. From this entire list, only expanded clay can come up, but in terms of its heat-shielding properties, it is inferior to mineral wool.
When the insulation is selected, you can proceed to the next step: you need to decide how the ceiling will be insulated.
Types of ceiling insulation
Scheme of insulation of a wooden attic.
There are only two main ways to insulate the ceiling: outside and inside the house. Both of these methods do a good job, the heat in the room is preserved, and the energy does not go into the void. The difference is in the technology of insulation, as well as in the choice of materials for thermal insulation of the roof. Building materials used for this purpose are divided into two groups according to their properties to absorb moisture from the air. There are only two types: vapor-permeable and vapor-tight. Based on these properties, vapor-permeable material is used for thermal insulation from the inside, and vapor-tight - from the outside.
Thermal insulation of the ceiling inside the room
It is with this type of room insulation that mineral wool is used, which is available both in the form of plates and in a roll. If you combine it with a false ceiling made of drywall, you get an insurmountable barrier to heat that wants to seep through the cracks.
The process of installing such a ceiling, in which there is thermal insulation, can be divided into three stages, this scheme will help to work more smoothly.
- It is necessary to assemble a frame, wooden or from a metal profile, using a puncher and dowel-nails.
- The mineral insulation is cut into layers of the required size and glued to the ceiling between the profile, filling all the empty space to the maximum. Tile glue glues insulation to the ceiling almost instantly, and professionals advise using it.
Before working with the insulation, it is necessary to re-read the instructions in detail, in some cases it is necessary to apply a layer of vapor barrier between the ceiling and the mineral insulation.
At this stage, the ceiling is sheathed around the entire perimeter with sheets of drywall. To do this, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws made of hardened steel, as the most durable. These self-tapping screws withstand the heaviest loads.
The whole technology, it would seem, is very simple, and yet ignorance of some of the nuances can jeopardize the entire process.
Useful little things
Roof insulation diagram.
The heater must not be compressed. Thermal insulation comes precisely from the presence of air bubbles in it, which will disappear when pressed. It is better to leave some distance from the mineral wool to the drywall.
In addition, in many cases there is a problem of spotlights. The fact is that the energy-saving lamps used everywhere are a little, but they heat up. And the insulation hidden behind a layer of drywall is laid there specifically to prevent any heat transfer. The space near the lamps is not ventilated, and as a result, they burn out very quickly, after 2-3 hours of continuous operation. There are two options for solving the problem: abandon the built-in lighting altogether, using sconces or ordinary chandeliers instead, or cut out space in the insulation around each lamp, leaving a gap of about 2-3 cm, and then cover everything with layers of drywall.
On this, the process of insulating the ceiling inside the room is completely completed, and it should be disassembled which of the materials for insulating the ceiling are used outside, from the side of the roof.
Insulation of the ceiling from the outside
This method is great for those cases when the house has already been renovated and in order to insulate the roof from the inside, it will be necessary to disassemble the plasterboard ceiling. Doing all this is very unprofitable, and for a long time. It is much easier to insulate the ceiling from the outside, from the side of the attic. At the same time, the need for a false ceiling made of plasterboard is eliminated, unless it has already been installed earlier. The way to insulate the roof from the outside is even easier than from the inside. There are two options, the first and simplest of them involves using penoizol.
Foam insulation
Work with penoizol in the attic can be divided into 4 stages for convenience:
The scheme of air movement in the attic.
- Attic cleaning. As a rule, attics are filled with unnecessary things and other slag, and for insulation work with foam insulation, an absolutely clean surface will be needed.
- Accurate measurement of space to buy the right amount of foam. Its thickness should not be less than 40 cm. High-density foam is needed. It can be replaced with such penoizol as polystyrene, but this replacement will cost much more.
- The floor in the attic is completely covered with foam sheets, at the joints they are connected using mounting foam.
- If they do not plan to walk in the room, the scheme can do without this stage. If the attic will be used as an attic or as a warehouse, a good screed is required above the penoizol. Otherwise, no later than a month from walking on it, the foam will break and become just useless slag. Before pouring the screed in the attic, it will be necessary to lay a reinforcing metal mesh. The solution layer is poured at least 50 mm.
The attic space can be insulated not only with penoizol. If desired, the same mineral wool can become a heater for the roof. The scheme of actions remains practically the same and consists of 6 stages, only materials for insulating the ceiling change.
- Cleaning the floor from unnecessary things and small debris - a completely clean stove is required.
- The most accurate measurements are made.
- The floor frame is assembled, the logs are mounted.
- A vapor barrier is applied, for example, glassine. It should be cut with a small margin to use extra pieces on the logs.
- Mineral wool is laid without gaps, but as tightly as possible. It should not be forgotten that it cannot be compressed.
- The last step is flooring. It is made depending on the purpose of the attic space. You can assemble a beautiful floor, or you can use the simplest coating.
These are all the ways in which you can insulate the ceiling in your country house. There are only a few more interesting tips to improve functionality.
To make the ceiling even warmer, mineral insulation or foam can be laid in two layers. In this case, it is necessary to lay according to the principle of bricks, so that the layer on top closes the joints in the lower layer. You can use boards or even sheets of drywall so that the layers are slightly pressed against each other.
There is nothing more to say about the insulation of ceilings. It can be concluded that thermal insulation from the outside is much simpler, faster and cheaper. But in both cases, the changes will not be long in coming - the house will immediately become warmer, and therefore more comfortable.
Insulation of the ceiling in the attic from the inside: scheme
Insulation of the ceiling in the attic from the inside or outside is necessary in conditions with cold winters. This will save energy for space heating.
How to insulate the ceiling in the house from the attic
When it comes to warming the house, for some reason the ceiling is not included in the repair estimate, and the general climate in the house directly depends on its condition. According to the laws of physics, warm air always rises and gives up its energy to the roof, causing the snow to melt.
Thus, heating costs can increase by 30% minimum. To minimize costs, you need to take care of the insulation of the attic floor, as well as the roof itself.
What materials can be used
Basically, three types of insulation are used:
One or more options are selected from this list. Working with expanded clay and mineral wool does not require special building skills, and in order to insulate the attic with polyurethane foam, it is better to call specialists. Working with this material requires special knowledge and skills.
The advantages of polyurethane foam in the insulation of the ceiling from the attic
Polyurethane foam is a universal insulation that is applied by spraying.
Thanks to this approach, all sorts of flaws and irregularities are well closed, and as a result an even layer is created. The advantages of polyurethane foam come down to quick curing and excellent moisture retention. Even the thinnest layer of insulation is able to perfectly retain heat.
The low dead weight does not deform the treated surface when applying several layers, and the material is also resistant to fungi and mold. Rodents are also not a threat.
Polyurethane foam is a non-combustible insulation, so the issue of fire danger is removed.
This material can be used to treat both the attic floor and the surfaces under the roof. Resistance to moisture and temperature changes will allow you to close this issue for several decades. Polyurethane foam does not need additional protection with foil or film as a waterproofing. Fibrous heaters are subject to this.
As a result, processing the ceiling from the attic side will allow not only to keep the heat in the house and reduce heating costs, but also to create a kind of utility room or even living space on the “second floor”.
Attic floor insulation with mineral wool
This insulation is created from rocks such as basalt. The composition of cotton wool consists of small fibers that fit snugly together and can be used to cover the floor in the attic.
For high-quality work, waterproofing is necessary with a film or foil so that moisture does not penetrate through the cracks. If the insulation gets wet, it will immediately lose its initial properties.
Laying mineral wool does not involve great difficulties. Various options are common on sale and the main ones are rolls or plates. When buying, check the integrity of the package. If there are defects, the insulation may be damaged, which will seriously affect its properties.
Before work, a wooden crate is made, a waterproofing layer is laid, mineral wool slabs are distributed. If there are already beams on the ceiling from the attic side, you can lay insulation between them. The joints between the plates (rolls) must be sealed with special adhesive tape. The height difference between the beam and the mineral wool layer should be kept to a minimum to reduce the possibility of warm air passing through. If one layer is not enough, it is better to lay several and make sure that the beams are covered.
Upon completion of all work on top of the mineral wool, it is advisable to make a floor covering if you walk in the attic. Because the deformation of the insulation due to walking will reduce all heat-insulating properties to zero.
Working with expanded clay
One of the simplest heaters is expanded clay. Its main advantages:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- Light weight.
- Environmentally friendly material.
- Does not burn.
- Does not collapse from low temperatures.
- Durable.
To insulate the ceiling from the attic side with expanded clay, it is enough to simply sprinkle the surface with this material on a pre-laid vapor-proof layer.
To achieve a greater effect, it is recommended to mix expanded clay granules of different sizes in order to eliminate the presence of voids in the flooring. It is also advisable to use such a heater in attics with pipes. The mixture is able to completely fill all the gaps, which cannot be said about mineral wool.
On top of the insulation, you can make a cement screed and lay a laminate (linoleum).
Styrofoam - the easiest way to insulate
To use polystyrene foam as a ceiling insulation from the attic side, you just need to purchase the right size slabs and lay it between the beams or wooden crate.
Despite the advantages of this method, there is one significant drawback - easy flammability. Therefore, before making a choice in favor of polystyrene, it is better to think it over again and, possibly, pay attention to the same expanded clay.
Each material for ceiling insulation has certain thermal conductivity properties, the calculation of which for each house is carried out individually. Therefore, this stage should be entrusted to specialists. Based on the data obtained, the material is then selected and its installation in the attic. The use of expanded clay and mineral wool does not require special building knowledge, but work with polyurethane foam should be performed by specialized workers.
Thus, after insulation in the attic, you can organize it as an additional room for storing household items or equip a small living room. But this is up to you.
How to insulate the ceiling in the house from the attic side: video instruction
How to insulate the ceiling in the house from the attic When it comes to warming the house, for some reason the ceiling is not included in the estimate of repair work, and the general climate in the house directly depends on its condition.
From the author: hello dear reader. If you are reading this, I assume that you have a private house, and you have decided to insulate the ceiling from the side of the cold attic with your own hands. If this is the case, then further information is what you need to properly insulate the ceiling of the house.
What you need to know before starting work
Where to start? .. The topic is quite extensive, and work related to insulation requires, if not professional, then at least basic knowledge about the materials available on the market, their properties and how to use them.
If you do the work without having this knowledge, you can, at best, spend time, effort and money, so to speak, on the wind, because of which it is just cold, and at worst, provoke a fire due to neglect of fire safety rules and improper installation of insulation material. Yes, insulation is needed to keep warm, but a fire is already a clear bust in every sense.
Now we will look at the most popular materials, and also find out with a cold attic using common types of insulation. We will find out what are the advantages and, possibly, disadvantages of each of them.
Insulation with foam
Styrofoam is one of the most popular materials for insulation. It is lightweight and easy to cut even with a regular cardboard cutter. In a word, working with polystyrene is convenient, fast, pleasant and, in principle, not difficult. The main thing is to make the right measurements and not cut off the excess from the whole sheet. But even if you overdid it, there is nothing fundamentally terrible about it: this place can be easily filled with mounting foam. Let's imagine the advantages of polystyrene in the form of a short list:
- it is easy to cut;
- easy to transport to the top;
- it is not afraid of moisture and is not sensitive to temperature;
- it is not suitable for consumption by insects and rodents;
- if the foam is laid correctly - on a dry base treated with an antiseptic, the likelihood of the appearance of fungal formations (mold) is minimized;
- material has a relatively low cost.
The list could go on, but I think this is enough. We have listed the main positive aspects of the material.
But the foam is also different. Yes, there are different manufacturers, but that's not about that now. The fact is that the sheets are produced in different parameters. In this case, we are interested in thickness.
For insulation of residential premises, sheets with a thickness of 5–7 cm are usually used, while their density, as a rule, is 15 kg / m³. of course, the higher the density index, the higher the material's ability to insulate. You can, of course, choose 25 kg / m³, you can lay the sheets in two layers - this is not forbidden.
But, nevertheless, there is a recommendation: if you are going to mount an attic floor made of hard material (for example, fiberboard / OSB boards), then it is enough to choose foam with a density of 15 kg / m³. If the installation of a rigid surface is not planned, for better thermal insulation it is worth choosing sheets with a density index of 25 kg / m³.
In general, if there is such an opportunity, then a hard floor should be mounted in any case. This will allow you to store various things in the attic or even turn it into additional living space, if, of course, it is properly equipped.
But if there is no hard surface above the sheets, then it is not advisable to walk on them often, and even more so, move objects. Simply, they are not designed for this, regardless of what density they will have.
Insulation from the attic in a wooden or brick one is not fundamentally different: both there and there the process consists in simply laying polystyrene foam on the floor of the attic. More specifically, the following work needs to be done:
- check the entire wooden structure for rot. If you find a rotten area, then it must be cut out and replaced with a new piece of wood, pre-treated with an antiseptic. In general, it would be useful to treat all elements of a wooden structure with an antiseptic. Even if these measures were taken during the construction of the house, prevention will never be superfluous. Especially in matters related to construction;
- clean the attic floor from debris (including small ones) - the base must be clean;
- make the necessary measurements, make calculations;
- cut foam sheets according to calculations;
- lay polystyrene on the surface. Be prepared for the fact that this material will cost more than the foam itself, but this is quite justified. In essence, there are alternative options, and in some cases they do without it at all;
- lay cooked;
- fill the gaps between the sheets with mounting foam. The distance between the sheets and supporting structures must also be foamed.
Here is such a simple way to insulate a home from the attic with foam. Now let's move on to another, no less popular and effective insulation - mineral wool.
Warming with mineral wool
Warming with mineral wool is another, no less popular way. Mineral wool is widely used for warming apartments, houses, balconies, loggias. Moreover, both ceilings and facades. The range of its application is no less wide than that of polystyrene.
Just like polystyrene, mineral wool has its advantages:
- relatively low cost;
- it is unsuitable for rodents and insects;
- it is quite easy to work with it;
- the material is considered flammable.
But, among other things, mineral wool has its own characteristic drawbacks, associated, for the most part, with its structure, with the nature of the material itself:
- when wet, it loses its valuable qualities. of course, if a few drops of water fall on it, nothing bad will happen, but if your roof leaks with enviable regularity, dampness will accumulate in the cotton - then it will not only cease to perform its functions, the main of which is heat preservation, but also time will become the place of residence of fungal formations. And growing such “mushrooms” in the attic is hardly included in your plans;
- cotton wool cannot be pressed for the same reasons. No, mold will not start in it from this, but its effectiveness will decrease by about 30–40%, depending on how you “try”;
- people with diseases of the respiratory system (for example, asthma) should not look at mineral wool at all. But if you had a chance to work with her, then it is necessary to use personal protective equipment - of course, not a gas mask, but at least a gauze bandage.
I would not say that the disadvantages of mineral wool are significant, so as not to consider it as a possible option. I repeat, mineral wool is an affordable, reliable and common insulation. The main thing is to observe safety precautions and not violate the rules of operation.
As for the thickness, then, again, the thicker the layer, the warmer it will be in the room. Taking into account natural conditions, as a rule, a layer of mineral wool from 15 cm to 30 cm or more is laid in attics.
Another important point: if you use several types of insulation (yes, this is also possible), then the bottom layer should be the least vapor permeable. In other words, it is possible to lay mineral wool on polystyrene, but not polystyrene on mineral wool. If there is a need for sound insulation, it is recommended to use mineral wool with a density of 40 kg / m³.
Here we come to the essence of this section. Let's get to work:
- Be sure (!) We check the boards for rot. Outwardly, they may look intact, but if you hear a dull sound when hit with a hammer, it is most likely rotten inside. It should be replaced with a new fragment treated with an antiseptic. In general, the preparation is the same as when using foam;
- checking the roof. If it leaks at least a little, the mineral wool will not forgive you for this. Therefore, be sure to eliminate the leak;
- checking communications. Although mineral wool is a hardly flammable material, it is still worth being safe;
- clean the surface of debris;
- we build a wooden frame;
- we lay the vapor barrier material. Just in case, I will say that the vapor barrier cannot be laid on both sides. If you suddenly want to spread it on top - resist this pernicious desire. The condensate will have nowhere to evaporate, and then the mineral wool will begin to slowly but surely rush;
- roll out the rolls between the beams (well, or lay the tiles);
- we mount a wooden base;
- enjoy the work done.
You can do without installing a hard floor. This is not necessary, but, again, it will not be possible to walk or put something on the surface (remember that cotton wool cannot be pressed).
We have already considered two popular ways to insulate a house with a cold attic. Now let's look at other options. I must say right away that they are more labor-intensive, but, at the same time, more economical in terms of finance. One of these methods is the use of expanded clay.
Warming with expanded clay
Expanded clay is a material that is obtained by firing low-melting grades of clay. The resulting gravel has the shape of oval spools, and the color is somewhere between brown and orange. The bulk density of expanded clay is also different - from 350 to 600 kg / m³ or more. Now it is not so important for us.
Consider the characteristic advantages and disadvantages of expanded clay. So, the advantages:
- low price (as a rule, it costs several times cheaper than mineral wool or polystyrene foam);
- fire resistance - expanded clay does not burn at all;
- high ability to soundproofing - if this, of course, is relevant;
- expanded clay is an environmentally friendly material: it does not emit any fumes into the air.
It would seem ideal. Yes, indeed, this is a great option for warming a private house. There is only a specific detail: it is a porous material - and absorbing moisture, its weight increases, and its thermal insulation qualities decrease. If the roof of your house is leaking (at least a little), the first thing to do before starting work is to repair the roof. Moisture is harmful, as we have already found out, not only for expanded clay, but also for mineral wool and other alternatives.
Keep in mind that expanded clay is quite heavy - it is not polystyrene or cotton wool. Therefore, before pouring it out, make sure that the attic floor / ceiling of the room below is secure. If the boards are hemmed from below to the beams, there is a chance that the first ones will not withstand the onslaught and come off the beams. Then expanded clay will be right in the room.
Projects of modern country houses most often involve the use of a room under the roof (attic) as living rooms. In this case, a construction called "warm roof" is used, in which the roof slopes are insulated. Such insulation is thought out at the project stage, so in the future the attic room can be used all year round. But if a country house was built ten or even twenty years ago, then high-quality thermal insulation may be absent. It also happens that the homeowner preferred a "cold roof" for reasons of economy or construction features (for example, because of the need to install a lightweight roof structure).
Peculiarities
So, first you need to decide on the side of the ceiling slabs that you will insulate. Let's say right away that there are no specific rules or strict guidelines - you can insulate the ceiling from any side. There are even options for insulating floors on both sides. However, if the height of the premises in the house is small, then it is better to carry out thermal insulation work from the attic side. It is more correct to choose the finish from the attic side also in the case when the house has already been renovated, but there is no desire to re-finish.
Of course, if the house is undergoing renovations and it is decided to install a panel or slatted ceiling, it makes sense to simultaneously lay the most suitable insulating material between the base ceiling and the new ceiling. In all other cases, the owners of private houses prefer to arrange a heat-insulating barrier in the attic.
The main advantages of warming a house with cold slopes:
- almost all heat-insulating materials are characterized by the effect of noise reduction, so the noise of rain, wind or a nearby highway will not be heard;
- insulation will protect the house not only from the cold, but also from the heat.
materials
When comparing materials for cold-type insulation of floors, we are faced with the following problem - they are all very different in their characteristics, from price to degree of environmental friendliness. Therefore, we cannot unambiguously call some insulation “good”, and some “bad”. In order to get the most complete picture of modern materials for thermal insulation, we will consider each group in detail.
So, the owner of a country house will have to make a choice between the following materials:
- Mineral wool or mineral wool belongs to the group of fibrous heaters. Most often made of fiberglass or basalt fiber.
- Ecowool. Modern insulating material based on cellulose.
- Group of polymeric heaters. Styrofoam, polyurethane, expanded polystyrene.
- Loose insulation - expanded clay, vermiculite.
- Natural traditional materials - shavings, dry leaves and reeds, straw, sawdust, needles. Can be used with clay.
Let's talk more about each group.
Mineral wool
The method of production of mineral wool is the same for all the minerals from which it is made - melting, separating into fibers and fastening the fibers with an adhesive. Melting glass will eventually give glass wool, slag - slag wool, basalt - basalt fiber. Basalt fiber in this group is the highest quality and safest for human health.
Plates, mats and rolls of mineral wool are characterized by excellent technological characteristics. These are non-combustible and low-combustible porous materials with a density of 35 to 100 kg/m3. The most dense are mats, they can even be plastered.
To insulate the attic, it is enough to use mineral wool of medium and low density, sold in rolls.
The cost of this material is low, it is cheaper than most polymeric heaters. In addition, mineral wool is rarely attacked by rodents, and the wood under the mineral wool plates does not rot. The disadvantages that you need to pay attention to are the ability to pass moisture and health hazards. So, even water vapor can deprive mineral wool of thermal insulation qualities, however, after drying, the properties of the material will be restored.
By the way, the ability of mineral wool to retain heat depends on the density index. The average density is 0.045 W / ms, which is quite enough for high-quality insulation of a house where you can live in winter.
Fiberglass should be used exclusively for insulating ceilings from the attic side, and stone fiber can also be used inside the house.
Polymer heaters
Traditional foam plastic and modern foam plastic (extruded polystyrene) are widely used as heaters. The cost is affordable, the thermal insulation qualities are good. The only serious drawback of polystyrene is its flammability and toxicity of the substance released during combustion, which is why in many countries polystyrene is prohibited from being used for thermal insulation.
Penoplex is a modern material, so it does not have such disadvantages as polystyrene. Even when burning, it is prone to self-extinguishing, which makes it especially attractive when choosing a heater for wooden buildings. Moisture and bacteria will also not cause any harm to foam plastic - it is a strong and durable material that allows it to be used even when insulating damp basements.
The more difficult (and colder) the climatic conditions, the larger the foam layer should be. So, for cold regions, the layer should not be less than 10 centimeters.
Sprayed heaters
Ecowool and polyurethane foam are a new type of insulation - sprayed. Both heat-insulating materials are placed on the surface to be insulated by spraying, but sometimes ecowool is simply covered between the floor joists and tamped. Ecowool is made from cellulose, and polyurethane foam is a polymer and is similar to ordinary polyurethane foam.
Despite the fact that spraying insulation requires special equipment (moreover, its cost is considerable and the purchase for a one-time use will be unjustified), many owners of country houses choose it. Why? Of course, because it is a seamless material, which means that the appearance of cracks or cavities through which cold air can enter the room is excluded.
By the way, the thermal insulation characteristics of sprayed heaters are approximately 1.5 times higher than those of polystyrene and mineral wool. The disadvantages of polyurethane foam include the need for protection from ultraviolet radiation, since under the influence of sunlight it collapses.
Loose insulation
Loose thermal insulators have remained popular for many decades, as they can fill a wide variety of spaces. Bulk materials are made from waste cellulose, glass and other post-industrial materials - vermiculite, perlite, polystyrene. Loose heat insulators are quite diverse, but in the first place today, of course, expanded clay. Large, medium and small expanded clay granules are made from ordinary clay, do not burn and have no smell. If you choose expanded clay as a heater, give preference to large porous granules - they retain heat best.
Bulk heaters have a lot of advantages:
- environmentally friendly;
- fire resistant;
- unattractive to insects and rodents.
Loose insulation is not afraid of high humidity, the granules do not crumble and do not split. Despite the fact that these heaters pass steam well, the floors do not dampen, since the special structure of the materials provides excellent ventilation. Bulk materials have one drawback that needs to be mentioned - you will have to build an additional partition to fill the insulation between the wall and the cladding. With the floor and ceiling, the situation is somewhat simpler - the granules can be poured into the space between the lags of the subfloor and the main floor, and when insulating from the side of the attic, you can not close the loose insulation with anything if the room is not used as residential.
Natural heat insulators
For centuries, our ancestors used natural materials to insulate their homes - sawdust and shavings, reeds, hay, spruce branches, cones, leaves, and even dry algae. The choice of insulation depended on what suitable material was more in the area. By the way, if there are woodworking enterprises in the region of your residence, you can get sawdust and shavings literally for a penny or even free of charge, because such companies often seek to get rid of production waste themselves.
Unfortunately, all natural heat insulators (with the exception of clay) can catch fire easily and quickly. In addition, rodents often settle in natural heat insulators.
Insulation thickness
Remember that no matter what material you choose for ceiling insulation, the effectiveness of the work carried out will depend on the correctly selected thickness of the insulation layer. Also, regardless of the type of insulation, it is recommended to remove all electrical cables in special insulating tubes. When building a new house, calculations are carried out by designers and allow you to take into account the thermal conductivity of all building materials. Such calculations will be the most accurate, but when insulating an ordinary country house, we use simpler methods.
So, it is known that the thickness of the layer of shavings or sawdust for regions where the temperature in winter drops no more than -15 ° C, a layer of 5-6 cm is enough. If the temperature drops to -25 ° C, the layer thickness increases to 8-10 centimeters.
For other heaters, it is most convenient to use a formula that allows you to determine its thickness with approximate accuracy. To do this, you need to know the thermal conductivity of the material (often it is indicated on the packaging of the material or certification documents and is indicated by W / mS). Next, find out the indicator of the minimum floor resistance for your region (m2S / W) - information about this indicator can be found on the Internet or in any large hardware store from a specialist consultant. Now you can calculate the thickness of the insulation by multiplying this figure by the declared thermal conductivity of the insulation.
For example, for the Moscow region, insulation should provide heat transfer resistance of 4.15 m2C / W. Suppose that a foam plastic was chosen as a heater, the thermal conductivity of which is 0.04 W / mS. We multiply the indicators: 4.15 x 0.04 \u003d 0.166 m (or 170 mm). According to this formula, it can be seen that the thinnest layer will be made of polyurethane, and the thickest - expanded clay.
Laying technology
Insulation of the ceiling from the outside (cold) side is also popular because you can not think about problems with condensate - steam does not enter the thickness of the insulation, which means it cannot condense there and provoke the appearance of mold.
Foreword. In order to keep warm in a private house, it is necessary to carry out a set of works on thermal insulation of all structures. Measures for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the attic can be performed in several ways, it all depends on the type of ceiling slabs. The ceiling insulation technology involves two options - outside and inside the room, we will consider the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the attic side and show a video on this topic.
About 15% of heat loss occurs precisely through the ceiling, so it is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the attic side for the winter with high quality. But, before starting work, it is necessary to correctly select the heat-insulating material and familiarize yourself with the technology of work. This article will focus on events in a private house, while self-insulation of the ceiling of the apartment is performed in a similar way.
Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house
When choosing between insulating the ceiling from the outside or from the inside of the room, several factors are taken into account. The insulation of the ceiling in the apartment is carried out from the side of the warm room, since the insulation from the outside affects the common house area. In apartment buildings, the installation of insulation increases the sound insulation of the interfloor floors of the apartment.
In a private house, the method of carrying out work is not limited by anything. The most correct option for thermal insulation of the ceiling is to carry out work outside, i.e. from the side of a cold attic in a private house. In this case, the entire floor structure is protected from freezing, which increases its service life. In addition, the insulation of floors from the side of the attic does not reduce the height of the room in the house.
Carrying out work from the attic does not require effort when fixing the insulation on the ceiling from below. In addition, no additional finishing of the premises is required. When choosing a heater for this method, the strength of the material is not important, as is the thermal conductivity. Mineral wool mats with low density are best suited for these purposes for warming horizontal surfaces.
How to insulate the ceiling from the attic
Consider how to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic with your own hands. To begin with, the attic space is cleared of debris, the insulation must be laid on a clean and even base. Next, calculate the required amount of thermal insulation material. If you chose basalt wool to protect this structure, then a layer of rolled hydro-vapor barrier is laid from the side of the warm room.
The heat insulator is placed between the lags and covered with a wind and moisture protective film, which will prevent the insulation from getting wet. The presence of a rough flooring from the floorboards will allow you to freely walk around the attic and store various rubbish in this room. Next, we will study the advantages and disadvantages of each material in order to make the right choice of insulation to protect attic floors in a private house.
The choice of material for thermal insulation of the ceiling
Ecowool is a loose heat-insulating material, consisting of 80% recycled cellulose and 20% flame retardants and antiseptics (minerals and boric acid). Ecowool retains heat well, the thermal conductivity coefficient is about 0.041 watts per meter per degree Celsius. Thanks to the application technology in the attic, a solid coating is created without "cold bridges" in the ceilings.
mineral wool. To the class of mineral wool, builders include: stone wool, fiber from slag and fiberglass. Fiberglass consists of fibers up to 50 mm long and up to 15 microns thick. Glass wool mats and rolls are resilient and durable. Work with this material should be extremely careful, because. glass threads can dig into the skin, injure mucous membranes, hitting the eyes or lungs. Mineral wool should be protected with vapor barrier films.
Extruded polystyrene foam. The advantages of Technoplex thermal insulation in resistance to moisture and the absence of shrinkage during operation, unlike P-75 mineral wool or glass wool. The material does not lose the characteristics declared by the manufacturer even at 100% humidity, and the absence of formaldehyde in the composition of the insulation guarantees environmental safety for humans. At the same time, the material is quite durable and lightweight.
Foamed polyethylene. The thermal conductivity of Penofol is difficult to compare with traditional, for example, mineral heat insulators, since foil Penofol is a combined material. Insulation with Penofol helps to reduce heat loss in the room due to foamed polyethylene, and the metallized layer can reflect up to 97% of infrared radiation. At the same time, the material is available at a price.
Video. Ceiling insulation from the attic