How to insulate the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof. How to insulate the ceiling in a bath: modern materials and work technology Ceiling insulation in a dressing room with a cold roof

If you yourself are planning to build or repair a steam room, then, most likely, you wondered: the better to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples from the video.

Why is it necessary

A person in a steam room has often encountered such a phenomenon as condensation. It forms when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It does not matter whether the steam room is built into the room or it is a free-standing structure, it is necessary to insulate it. The only question is how and how much. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore, a thermal chamber is required.

Wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality in order to provide a "perfect" microclimate in the steam room.

To make the wood last longer, it is impregnated with various compounds (additives - fire retardants). They increase stamina. This safety measure is justified, as the temperature in the steam room reaches 100 ° C. However, chemical mold coatings will give off toxic fumes at high temperatures.

The main "ally" of wood flooring is insulation, which should keep hot steam inside the room and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and extends the service life.

Correct insulation of the ceiling in a bath or steam room with your own hands implies the observance of the following points:

1. Steam must accumulate and be stored indoors.
2. The inside of the roof must be protected from high humidity.
3. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensation both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the clapboard in the walls and ceiling.

Features of heaters

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from the hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulate moisture. These products will definitely not work. The best way is to finish with several layers:

1. The first is to use an insulating material that prevents water from entering.
2. Place a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
3. The third level is aluminum foil.

Such "layering" keeps heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, therefore heat losses are reduced.

Heaters can be divided into the following types:

• fibers;
• plates;
• blocks;
• wall slabs;
• backfill.

And depending on the composition, they are distinguished:

• Organic, such as ecowool.
• Inorganic - mineral wool.
• Expanded polystyrene.
• Other heaters such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath

A quality insulation material should be:

• heat-resistant so that no fire occurs;
• environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful vapors);
• "Breathe" so that water does not collect and condensation does not accumulate;
• resistant to moisture.

Varieties and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with and without an attic. Structurally, the options for buildings from logs and from panels are similar. They have:

• isolation from steam;
• insulation;
• filing from boards;
• beams
• sheathing.

There is a vapor barrier on the wall and ceiling, then a timber, then a heater. You can use basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a bar and fixing the lining. As an option, respectively, a beam of 40 mm and a heater of 40 mm. You don't need too much insulation. Overruns of materials in this case are inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope in order to collect condensation. As a result, a space remains under the lining, allowing the bath to dry out. The power of a modern stove is enough to warm up a bath well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-recycling oven.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

• smear the entire lining with a layer of clay up to two centimeters to reduce heat loss;
• sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps to eliminate condensation).

If you want to make a properly working steam room, then you first need to take care of the vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a vapor pocket to the level of the upper edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

The vapor barrier of floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is already a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and deal with the vapor barrier of the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace the damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate from the outside to prevent moisture from entering in the form of condensation at the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bath, wall insulation from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60 ° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well-waterproofed ceiling and a volumetric brick oven with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, on top of the aerated concrete walls, put a foam glass insulation with slabs 50 mm thick, and then plaster it and make decorative wood sheathing.

Deck ceiling

You may not see him as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is widespread. This method was previously considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop up everything they needed for construction themselves. This is now the most expensive option.

There are several installation options.

1. Along the crowns of a log house, if the area of ​​the room is small (length no more than 2.5 m) As an overlap, boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used, an even more economical way is edged tongue-and-groove options (25 mm).
2. There is an interesting option for overlapping with unedged sanded boards. They are placed in 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
3. On the floor beams. With this option, the area of ​​the room can be larger. The accent on the beams will add flavor and look great.
4. On the supporting frame made of strips. Suitable for small rooms and is used less often. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle heavy loads.

The process takes place in several steps.

1. In the attic, a vapor barrier film (PIP) is lined with an overlap of 10-15 cm (the foil surface is down).
2. Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead of it, you can cover the surface with expanded clay or cover with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
3. The work ends with the laying of a waterproofing film (HIP) - roofing material or polyethylene.

Sewn ceilings

They have a load-bearing capacity, they are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or shields of grooved boards are evenly laid on them. Such a structure is insulated with fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

1. The HIP is taken and placed on the beams from the roof side. This is done with an overlap.
2. Boards or plywood sheets are placed on the waterproofing.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the local climate). All joints must be closed with the next sheet.
4. We attach a vapor barrier from the bottom of the beams.
5. Then we attach wood slats.
6. At the last stage, the lining is attached.

After completing all the work, you will receive additional storage space - an attic or attic.

Panel ceiling

It is difficult to do it yourself. To begin with, a special structure is made from panels. Then it must be fixed on top of the cross beams or on the top of the wall. How is the installation:

1. Boards are placed close to the supports (perpendicularly).
2. Then we attach narrow boards to the inner side of the PP, they will be bumpers.
3. The next step is to lay the PIP.
4. We put ecowool (or any other) in the resulting space of the panels.
5. Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing material.
6. The final stage will be the installation of the boards, they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath: which material is best suited

It used to be the custom to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people are using the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are a non-professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

• basalt wool;
• expanded clay;
• penoizol;
• ecowool and others.

You can also use foam and glass wool. But when heated, the first exudes harmful gases and can ignite. And for working with fiberglass, a good protective suit is shown.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors to be aware of:

• it is a Russian bath or sauna;
• what material the bathhouse is built from,
• which stove is worth.

How to insulate outside

To keep the steam inside and not escape outside, you need to achieve the "thermos" effect. Insulation should be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need insulation for the ceiling in the bath. There are different options:

• waterproofing film;
• expanded clay;
• mineral wool or others.

Builders create a "multi-layer cake" out of these elements. Blocks are used from the side of the roof. Put the PIP on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Consider some modern types of insulation:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• expanded polypropylene;
• penoizol;
• growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure resembling ordinary cotton wool in appearance. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

• long service time;
• good hygroscopicity (perfectly absorbs water);
• overheat resistant (fireproof).

The thickness of the wool is from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if you put it on the PIP. To work with her you need a tight suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in a bath. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. It is cost effective because it requires little fuel to heat the room. This insulation is presented:

• mineral wool with aluminum foil (produced in rolls and plates);
• polymeric cloth based on foil (has a small thickness, is produced in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

• reflect IR rays;
• protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) of the ceiling from moisture and decay.

Such insulation maintains high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the entire steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), as in a greenhouse, respectively, in such a bath, it is imperative to do proper ventilation.

Expanded clay

In appearance it resembles small clay stones with pores. Absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak point. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay has many advantages:

• environmentally friendly product, without extraneous toxic impurities;
• not flammable;
• has a long service life;
• bacteria and fungi do not form in it;
• cheap product;
• it's easy to use.

Penoizol

It is a liquid foam, it is referred to as heat-insulating materials. It fills in all areas (even hard-to-reach ones). It has many advantages:

• cheapness;
• excellent quality (does not expand when it dries up);
• not flammable;
• serves for a long time;
• mold and mildew do not form on it.

Cement and sawdust

This method of warming is characterized as "old-fashioned". To make a ready-made mixture, you need 10 parts of sawdust, one part of lime, and one part of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. Economically, this is a profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

• difficult to cook;
• thermal insulation properties are lower in comparison with other options;
• no protection against mold;
• when dry, cracks appear that need to be lubricated.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Quite an effective way to keep warm. Environmentally friendly cellulose pulp. It contains substances that improve its properties: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them, ecowool:

• resistant to fire;
• resists the development of bacteria;
• prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also lightweight and spreads over the entire area, filling the voids. Its main disadvantage is moisture absorption. This reduces thermal insulation.

Features of insulation products

Manufacturers offer a variety of membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that prevents heat from escaping. The following types with a foil layer are distinguished:

• polypropylene;
• kraft paper;
• roofing material;
• membrane;
• foil;
• coating.

This film is mounted with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are glued with foil tape for construction work.

A wide range of waterproofing products are available in specialized store areas - foil-coated kraft paper, construction membrane and other products. Although you can save money and purchase ordinary plastic wrap or roofing felt.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused in a wide range and do not understand what material to use, then use the advice of experienced builders. For example, it is recommended to use expanded clay with concrete floors.

No special preparation is required. For convenience, you can attach slats from a bar to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check if the expanded clay is evenly distributed. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay onto the entire surface (30 cm thick). A regular garden rake will help to distribute the granules evenly. If the attic space will be used in the future and a floor is provided, then expanded clay is laid at the level.

If all the backfill is leveled, you need to put the GUI. Durable polyethylene is fine. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Scotch tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then boards are laid on the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-follow method that will help you insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands. But due to its low cost, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main task - accumulation and "saving" of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and another 1 additional layer for thermal insulation. Such a measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, then the process will take place in several steps:

1. an unedged board (5 cm) is taken and attached to the bottom of the beams;
2. to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
3. grooved aspen slats are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
4. we lay a vapor barrier material outside the roof;
5. on top of the laid mixture, distribute mineral wool 15 cm wide;
6. then we lay the polypropylene film;
7. on top of the resulting structure we put boards, this is the future floor of the attic.

If done correctly, you should end up with a great steam room. All the steam will stay inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

Dry method of insulation

Specialists Yu.P. Sosnin and Bukharkin E.N. in their book they suggest the following method:

1. we take grooved boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then we treat them with linseed oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
2. we sheathe them, observing the moisture gap - 3 cm;
3. spread the film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, or better, a foil coating with reinforcement);
4. the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in the bath, following the recommendations and following the technological process, then:

• heat losses will significantly decrease (up to 35%);
• there will be no fungi and pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
• less firewood will be required;
• the steam room will serve you longer.

In addition to these positive aspects, there are others:

• you can do this work with your own hands without large investments;
• you will select all the materials that suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your renovated sauna.

How the ceiling in the bath is insulated directly depends on how long the heat will be kept in the premises. Anyone who is at least a little familiar with the laws of physics knows that heated air is always rises up... But if it comes into contact with the cold surface of the ceiling, it will cool down very quickly and begin to sink down. Thus, the steam room will cool quickly, because the oven will not be able to cope with the heating of the rapidly circulating air. Plus, an uninsulated ceiling in a bath is always unpleasant drops of condensation hanging over your head, ready to fall down at the most inopportune moment.

it is quite possible with the use of a variety of thermal insulation materials. But in order to achieve the desired effect, this work must be done correctly, it is worth noting that the insulation of the ceiling is only the first stage of the internal insulation of the entire bath. Nevertheless, given the right materials, the task seems feasible even for an inexperienced builder, if he follows the technological recommendations.

Warming will become effective if the sequence of stages is followed. Thermal insulation of a bath ceiling consists of three main stages - vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing.

You should never trust those manufacturers of insulation materials who claim that their products can "in one fell swoop" replace and vapor barrier membrane and waterproofing film - this is just a publicity stunt. If you need to get high-quality insulation, you should not deviate from time-tested technologies.

Video: theoretical justification for the need to insulate a bath ceiling

Insulation materials

In order to choose the right insulation material for the ceiling of the bath, you need to know what requirements it must meet.

Since the ceiling of the bath will constantly be in special conditions, such as high temperature and high humidity, the insulation must have the following qualities:

• Increased resistance to temperature extremes and high humidity.
• Not predisposition to the emergence of microbiological life forms (mold, fungus, bacteria, etc.), to the appearance of insect nests and small rodents.
• Should go well with flooring and finishing materials.
• Have a low score moisture absorption.
• The ecological purity of the material is important, as it does not sprinkle the emission of harmful, hazardous vapors or simply unpleasant odors. Bath, all the same.
• Low thermal conductivity, that is, the insulation should keep the heat inside the room as much as possible and not allow the cold to penetrate outside.
• Ease of installation without losing the quality of the thermal insulator.

In the table - some technical characteristics widespread insulation materials:

Essential performance characteristics	Material name	Numeric indicators
Density (kg / cubic meter)	Mineral wool	100-120
	Expanded polystyrene	25-40
	Polyurethane foam	45-50
	Expanded clay gravel	250-300
Thermal conductivity coefficient W / (m × ° K)	Mineral wool	0,040-0,045
	Expanded polystyrene	0,035-0,040
	Polyurethane foam	0,028 - 0,035
	Expanded clay gravel	0,10-0,16
Moisture absorption%	Mineral wool	up to 4%
	Expanded polystyrene	up to 5%
	Polyurethane foam	to 10 %
	Expanded clay gravel	10-15%

You can take a closer look at some thermal insulation materials, which are especially often used in bath conditions.

Isover

Isover is mineral-bearing insulation, about which we can say that it is affordable and very practical in operation. It belongs to the group of mineral wool, which can have a different basis - slag, basalt, dolomite, diabasalt and others.

- one of the most popular heaters for ceilings of houses and baths. This material is produced in rolls and plates, which is very convenient for installation. In addition, there are options on sale that have a foil coating, which creates the effect of reflecting heat into the room, increasing it thermal insulation... Isover is made on the basis of fiberglass, that is, it is an improved analogue of glass wool. Has the following technical characteristics:

• Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W / (m × ° K), which is an excellent indicator for insulation.
• Izover is one of the best sound insulators.
• It is not a breeding ground for any life forms.
• Differs in high moisture resistance.
• Light weight, which makes it easier to climb to the upper floors and install insulation between the joists and rafters.
• A fairly environmentally friendly material, which is ensured by its composition - it is sand, soda and limestone. At the same time, resistance to chemical influences is characteristic.
• Elasticity, which provides a snug fit to the crate during installation and ease of transportation - the material is compressed by 25-40% of the total volume.
• Durability of operation - the insulation serves for tens of years, without losing its original qualities.
• The material is not flammable - the packaging is marked "NG".

The material also has its drawbacks, which are no less important to know about than about the advantages. But, by and large, there is only one significant negative point:

The use of isover is possible only in conditions where the temperature does not exceed 250-300 degrees. But such a temperature regime in the bath is possible only in the event of a fire. Insulation itself is not a combustible material, but it can emit a certain amount of smoke.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam (expanded polystyrene) is a familiar material that has become the basis for a number of other modern heaters. These polymer materials are also well suited for warming the ceiling in bath rooms in terms of their qualities, however, they are not without drawbacks.

Polyfoam in a bath is far from the best material

To the merits thermal insulators based on expanded polystyrene include:

• Low thermal conductivity, amounting to 0.037-0.040 W / m × ° TO — is one of the best indicators among all insulation materials.
• The ability to use in a wide temperature range, which allows them to insulate not only ceilings, but also the walls of houses built in regions with a harsh climate.
• Ease of installation of any of these polymer heaters.
• The ability to effectively perform the functions assigned to this material for three to four decades.
• In expanded polystyrene treated with fire retardants, fire resistance appears, and thanks to this, the scope of its application has significantly expanded.
• Very low moisture absorption, which is very important for the premises of the bath.

The negative qualities of polystyrene foam materials include the following:

• Heaters on this basis are susceptible to decomposition and loss of heat-insulating qualities under the influence of ultraviolet rays, therefore, after installation, the material must be immediately covered with a finishing material.
• These materials, not treated with fire retardants, melt during combustion, emitting a very toxic smoke that is dangerous not only for the health of the respiratory system, but also for human life.
• These heaters cannot be called environmentally friendly, since over time they begin to disintegrate and release toxic components. Such processes are especially fast when exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, if you look at the expanded polystyrene insulation from this side, then it is better to refuse to use them in the bath.

For a long time, natural thermal insulation materials have been used to insulate baths. Such heaters currently used include:

- expanded clay of different fractions, made of clay;

- ecowool made on the basis of cellulose;

- wood sawdust mixed with cement, clay or lime.

These materials are "breathable" - they not only retain heat, but also promote moderate air exchange, which is very important from the point of view of preventing condensation.

Expanded clay

This natural insulation can be called the most suitable for insulating the ceiling of a bath. He has all the qualities that are necessary for this room. This filling material, consisting of granules of different fractions, is made from clay. It is lightweight and has a porous structure, which gives thermal insulating the effect.

The positive properties of expanded clay include the following:

• The environmental friendliness of the material allows it to be used both open and closed. It does not emit dangerous or unpleasant fumes at all, neither during filling, nor after a long time.
• It is durable and does not lose its insulating properties throughout the entire period of its operation.
• Expanded clay is not flammable under any conditions, as it is made in the process of high-temperature clay firing.
• The moisture resistance of the material keeps it from dampness and from the emergence of forms and microbiological life between the granules.
• Expanded clay is a good sound insulator.
• The material is frost-resistant and can withstand an unlimited number of freeze and thaw cycles.
• Has a low thermal conductivity, which ranges from 0.12 to 0.16 W / m × ° TO — this allows you to maximize the heat in the sauna room.
• Backfilling expanded clay is a simple and fairly clean process.
• In small - and medium fractional expanded clay will never settle rodents, which distinguishes it from other heaters.
• The material has a very affordable price.

Ecowool

Ecowool is an environmentally friendly insulation, which consists of 82–85% natural cellulose, 5–7% sodium tetraborate and 8–13% boric acid.

Lignin, which is present in the cellulose fibers of the insulation, contributes to its stickiness when moistened. Boric acid protects fibers from the appearance of fungi and bacteria, insects andT. etc. - that is, it plays the role of an antiseptic. Sodium tetraborate helps to reduce the flammability, and hence the flammability of the material.

All auxiliary components, as well as cellulose fibers, are environmentally friendly and of natural origin.

Ecowool is an excellent insulation, but the technology of its spraying is not always and not always available to everyone

Ecowool has its positive and negative qualities. The advantages include:

• Very low thermal conductivity, amounting to 0.035-0.041 W / m × ° K.
• Environmentally friendly insulation - it does not emit harmful fumes.
• If ecowool is applied in a “wet” way, then it clogs up all gaps and crevices during spraying, making the insulation layer completely continuous.
• The light weight of the material allows you to lay it in a layer of any thickness, which will help improve thermal insulation.
• With proper spraying of ecowool, it can last for a very long period —40 ÷ 50 years.
• Ecowool leaves no waste in both wet and dry installations.
• The material can be reused, since over time it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities.
• Eco-insulation is self-extinguishing due to the processing of the fibers with fire retardants.
• Since cellulose fibers are treated with boric acid, rodents do not grow in them.

The negative qualities, which, in fact, can become an obstacle to the use of ecowool for insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse, include:

• Moisture absorption ecowool is up to 20%. If high-quality ventilation is arranged in the attic, then after the insulation dries out, its heat-insulating qualities will be restored. If the bath is used constantly, and there is no time left for airing and drying the room, then it is better to use another insulation that will be more resistant to moisture.
• Another obstacle to the installation of insulation may be the need for special equipment. The fact is that a more effective method of applying ecowool on the surface is "wet", when the raw material is first moistened in a special apparatus, and then applied under pressure through a pipe to the surface to be insulated.

Sawdust and cement or clay

The popular method of warming the ceiling in a bath is the distribution on a prepared base of a mixture consisting of sawdust and cement or clay. Sometimes sawdust is replaced with finely chopped straw.

The old traditional way of warming is sawdust with a binder

The thermal conductivity of this insulation material depends on the thickness and density of the applied layer.

In order to prepare such a mixture, it is necessary to take sawdust, lime, cement and water in a ratio of 10: 1: 1: 1.5. All components are well mixed in dry form and only then they are poured with water and kneaded into a homogeneous solution. The mixture should be thick enough - its readiness is checked by squeezing the lump of solution in the palm of your hand: if the lump does not crumble and water is not squeezed out of it, then the composition is ready, and it can be laid out on the surface, and then distributed in an even layer.

After the mixture dries, cracks may appear on it, they must be sealed with the same solution.

The advantages of sawdust-based insulation include the following:

• Affordability. Sawdust is a waste material in woodworking enterprises, so it will be inexpensive, and sometimes even for nothing.
• Shavings, sawdust or straw is an environmentally friendly material.
• The finished insulation is non-flammable and can withstand even the highest temperatures.
• It has high moisture resistance and vapor permeability, which makes it possible to dispense with the additional purchase of a vapor barrier material.
• This insulation is an effective heat and sound insulator, so it has been used for many decades, even though modern materials are on sale.

There are not so many negative aspects of this insulation, but they still have:

• Labor intensity work - material after mixing it turns out to be quite heavy, so it is better to make it directly in the attic of the bath.
• This insulation is a good heat insulator, but sometimes it is clearly not enough to maintain the desired temperature regime in the bath rooms. Therefore, the thermal insulation has to be strengthened by laying on top other materials with lower thermal conductivity.

It should be noted that this option is well suited for warming the ceiling in a bath, and this has been proven by decades of operation of such structures.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Vapor barrier

Vapor barrier in a bath is simply necessary, especially on the ceiling, since all the steam rises there. If there is no protective barrier, then the steam will, if not penetrate, then settle under the casing, on the thermal insulation, and moisture will reduce the insulation qualities, contribute to the appearance of fungus and rot.

The vapor barrier film will protect the thermal insulation from moisture and will not allow moisture to accumulate in the insulation and on the floor beams.

Most often, a special anti-condensate membrane is used for a vapor barrier device, which does not allow steam to pass to the insulation, but at the same time allows the material to "breathe", which prevents natural moisture from accumulating in it.

For bath rooms, the most suitable material is foil vapor barrier. It can be a special glossy film. When fixing it to the surface, you need to work extremely carefully, avoiding even the smallest gaps, otherwise the process will becarried out in vain.

More expensive, but also more reliable are multi-layer vapor barrier films made from kraft paper, which can also be foil-coated. For example, such material as "Folgoplast", "Megaizol", "Izospan" and others is often used.

The vapor barrier sheets are laid with an overlap, and on top they are fastened with a special foil tape, which makes the surface solid.

The vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the laid insulation material. If it is fixed to the floor beams with a stapler using staples, then the adhesive tape is glued on top of the hammered staples to create a completely sealed coating.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the material separates the insulation from the attic, that is, it is laid on top from the side of the attic.

It will not allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation from the side of the attic, and thereby - protect against all the accompanying negative consequences. Water from this side can appear when the roof is leaking or, in the form of condensation drops, when the temperature drops and the ventilation of the roof space is insufficient.

As a waterproofing material, ordinary dense polyethylene film, roofing felt or more modern waterproofing films are most often used.

Methods for insulating a bath ceiling

There are several ways to insulate the ceiling. And the list of materials required for this depends on which of them will be chosen.

False ceiling

The suspended ceiling has the following construction:

The scheme of the "pie" of the false ceiling

• Floor beams laid on the walls, which will serve as the framing for all other ceiling elements.
• From the side of the attic, there is a waterproofing material that will completely cover the structure from moisture from above.
• Then a wooden or plywood flooring is laid on the waterproofing, also from the attic side.
• Insulation material is located between the floor beams.
• Insulation from the side of the premises is closed with a vapor barrier membrane.
• At the last stage, the ceiling is sheathed with natural wooden clapboard.

The sequence of work depends on the selected insulation materials.

1. Expanded clay .

A - floor beams;

B - rough boards;

IN — vapor barrier;

G - insulation material;

D - waterproofing flooring;

E - sheathing made of boards or plywood.

If expanded clay is used to insulate the ceiling, then the work is carried out in the following sequence:

• Draft boards are screwed onto the floor beams from the side of the room - peculiar boxes are formed from the side of the attic.
• The gaps between the boards and floor beams are coated with a mixture of clay, lime and sawdust, which will create a vapor barrier layer, or a vapor barrier film is laid inside the boxes and on the floor beams.
• Further, expanded clay is poured into the prepared boxes.

• After backfilling, expanded clay is closed from above with a waterproofing film.
• On top of it, a boardwalk or plywood flooring is made.
• From the side of the bath room, the boards of the rough ceiling are tightened with a vapor barrier film, preferably foil.
• A lining is installed on top of it.

In the same way, warming takes place with a mixture of sawdust, lime, cement or clay, but such a solution is laid out in boxes after smearing the gaps between the boards. After the mixture hardens, additional mineral wool insulation can be placed on top or a layer of expanded clay can be covered. The rest of the actions are carried out in the same sequence as when insulating only with expanded clay.

Video: warming a bath ceiling with sawdust

2. Mineral wool.

Using mineral wool in mats or rolls, the insulation process is carried out as follows:

• From the side of the attic, waterproofing is laid and fixed on the floor beams, and then the board covering.
• From the side of the room, insulation is placed in the niches between the beams.

• Further, the insulation is tightened with one of the vapor barrier materials.
• On top of it, wooden slats are fixed to the floor beams.

• Decorative natural is nailed or screwed onto the slats.

Deck ceiling

A plank ceiling differs in that there are no floor beams, but it consists of boards laid on the walls of the bathhouse, or on bars nailed along the perimeter of the entire room by 100-120 mm below the ceiling.

This approach is possible if thin insulation is used (no thicker than 5 mm). The necessary conditions in this method of installing the ceiling will be that the width and length of the bath rooms should not be wider than 2500 mm, and the boards overlapping the room should have a thickness not less than 50 mm.

Insulation of such a ceiling is carried out as follows:

• On wooden flooring flooring a layer of vapor barrier is installed;
• Insulation is laid on top of it;
• If expanded clay or mineral wool mats with a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm are to be used, then you will have to nail the sides around the perimeter or arrange the flooring below the height of the walls, therefore, before laying the boards, you must immediately decide on the choice of insulation material;
• Further, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing film;
• Boards or plywood sheets are laid on top of all layers.

The advantages of this method of insulation include the simplicity and speed of installation, as well as an affordable price, since less materials for arranging the ceiling are required.

Disadvantages are the inconvenience during repair work in case of damage to the insulation, as well as the fact that the device of this type of ceiling is possible only in small premises.

If the insulation layers are not recessed between the sides, then it is recommended to erect above such a ceiling without an attic, in order to avoid damage to the insulation system.

Panel ceiling

This type of ceiling is a structure of panels, which include all the necessary components - these are shields made of support bars, sheathed with boards, inside which all layers of steam, heat and waterproofing are mounted. Mineral wool is usually used as a heater - in order to reduce the weight of the panel, while the thickness of its layer should be no more than 100 mm.

A - vapor barrier layer.

B - insulation material.

IN — waterproofing.

D - the junction of the panels, which, during their installation, is also finished with a vapor barrier film and thermally insulated.

D - a solid board that fits across the entire width of the boards. It connects all ceiling panels to each other and is held together with them with using self-tapping screws.

E - short boards, which are attached to each of the panels in a length of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm, and then the board common for all panels (G) is again laid down. This is repeated every 1000 ÷ 1200 mm.

З - overhead board, which connects adjacent panels.

The knocked down shields with the laid materials are raised in finished form on the walls of the bath. The installation process is complicated by the fact that all layers of thermal insulation must be laid between the panels. To insulate this area of ​​the ceiling, pieces of mineral wool with foil sides are used.

It should be noted that the panel with all the "content" has a considerable weight, so this approach would be rational either with the use of lifting devices, or in a good team - with reliable assistants. But in terms of the speed of installation of the ceiling, this may be the most advantageous option.

What type of ceiling of the bathhouse and, accordingly, the material for insulation to choose - everyone can decide for himself, having studied the nuances of the structure in a session. However, the most affordable and simple of them is considered to be a false ceiling. Though it will cost a little more in price than a flat one, it is worth choosing all the same his is such a construction has established itself as reliable, durable and durable.

Having carried out the installation with high quality, with the implementation of all technological recommendations and without neglecting auxiliary materials, the owner of the bath can be sure that the necessary heat in the premises will be fully preserved.

Roofs, which are called "cold", are erected most often, because to create a warm attic will require additional funds, time, effort, and the weight of the structure will turn out to be much higher.

Not every homeowner can afford this luxury. Therefore, most often a rafter system is made, covered with waterproofing and covered with roofing material.

With such a design, the main emphasis on thermal insulation should be placed on the ceiling of the living quarters (and not only to prevent cold air from entering the street, but also to reduce noise permeability and protect from heat in the summer).

There are several ways to insulate the ceiling under a cold roof. It is worth considering different materials and technologies.

Two methods of insulation are fundamentally different from each other:

From the attic

The most correct, from a construction point of view, is the first option. When insulated from the attic side, wet steam is able to leave the house and does not freeze inside the building materials of the ceiling itself. This means that there will be no mold, mildew, frost damage. The air in the house will be lighter.

The attic method allows the use of inexpensive bulk insulation, and also uses sprayed modern building materials.

From the side of the room

It is possible to hem the ceiling from below if, for some reason, it is not possible to use the attic method (if the attic is not accessible, if its overlap cannot be disassembled, etc.). The disadvantage of this method is that moisture can no longer freely leave the house. It will accumulate in the layers of insulation, and cause dampness, mold, rapid destruction of wooden floors.

Installation work of filing from the side of the room involves the construction of a metal or wooden frame (longitudinal logs), between which sheet insulation is laid (most often, dense mineral wool, or extruded polystyrene foam, "Penoplex").

Insulation frame

Insulation plates must be well fixed, work "overhead" is quite time consuming, and the equipment of builders dealing with mineral wool should be as closed as possible.

The choice of material depends on whether the ceiling will be insulated from the attic or from the house:

For the attic they use: expanded clay, sawdust, slag, polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool (including glass wool, basalt, slag), ecowool, foam glass, polyurethane foam (Ecotermix, for example). It is convenient to work on a horizontal surface, and the choice of materials is wide - from free-flowing to sprayable.

Bulk materials

Expanded clay - chosen because of its availability (as well as incombustibility and natural origin). However, expanded clay granules do not hold heat well, and a rather thick layer of this insulation will be required, which will add weight to the entire structure (especially if you cover expanded clay with a cement screed).

If you are already purchasing expanded clay, you should choose larger granules - they have more air cavities, which means that the insulating properties are better.

Scheme of ceiling insulation with expanded clay

Sawdust have more advantages than expanded clay. They retain heat better, are lighter and for many become a way out if they are available for the type of activity. But mice and other animals settle in the material with pleasure and over time the properties of the heat insulator decrease, they need to be constantly poured.

Fresh sawdust must not be used for insulation! They should dry out for at least a year. In the future, you need to protect the thermal insulation layer from getting wet. The smaller the sawdust fraction, the worse the thermal conductivity, therefore, preference is for medium-sized sawdust mixed with slag.

Ecowool - it is professionally applied with the help of special equipment, but there is also a free manual method, when the loosened ecowool is “thrown” over the ceiling on its own. The material is environmentally friendly, lightweight, perfectly performs the functions of thermal insulation and has an average degree of flammability (processed with fire retardants).

Roof insulation is an important task for keeping warm in the house. How to insulate the roof of a private house? See overview of thermal insulation materials.

Mats and slabs

Styrofoam- one of the most used materials for insulation from the attic side. Expanded polystyrene is lightweight, keeps heat well, and is relatively inexpensive. It is very convenient to work with the plates, the work is quick. For sealing joints, polyurethane foam is most often used.

The main drawback is that the foam burns perfectly and, when burned, emits poisonous smoke and drips.

It is also necessary to take into account the fact that ordinary foam has a low compression density; after installation, you cannot walk on it, otherwise the surface can be easily damaged.

To use such an attic, the foam will need to be covered with another layer (OSB plates, chipboard, boards, etc.).

Two methods can be used to install foam:

The first is suitable for a flat, smooth surface. Special compositions are used that can be applied to the foam sheet itself around the perimeter. It is better to arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. The cracks formed at the joints are filled with foam. For the best effect, it is better to lay two layers of thinner foam than one thick one.

Using the frame method, you need to accurately verify the distance between the logs, since the foam does not bend and crumbles when trimming.

Extruded polystyrene foam is the same foam, but produced using a different technology, it is more dense in compression and more resistant to combustion.

Mineral wool. Great for dry attics. Mineral wool is heavier than polystyrene, but lighter than expanded clay. It burns poorly and is inexpensive and insulates the room well.

It is necessary to work with mats carefully, as their small particles fall off, get on the skin and mucous membranes and can cause serious harm to health.

Mineral wool mats must be covered with a clean, dense layer so that you can walk in the attic in the future.

In addition, it will not be superfluous to protect the insulation from possible moisture penetration by laying a layer of a vapor barrier membrane on top (the joints of the layers are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and the seams are glued with tape).

The insulation and the membrane fit tightly to each other, and a ventilation gap must be made between them and the finishing layer of the floor. If the height of the lag no longer allows this to be done, counter rails are nailed and the finishing flooring is already made on them.

Sprayed materials

Polyurethane foam (or polyurethane foam of various brands) is a modern way to insulate floors quickly and efficiently.

The use of polyurethane foam significantly speeds up the installation process (6 - 8 times), does not require a lot of working hands, and the result will be a thin light layer of insulation without cold bridges, which will not lose its properties over the years.

When expanding, the PUF fills all the cracks. The coating becomes dense and can be walked on.

Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture and rodents.

The better to insulate the ceiling in a private house

So, what is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a private house? The best solution, in this case, would be dense slabs of mineral wool.

To fix them over your head, you will need the construction of a wooden (or metal) frame. The distance between the frame guides must correspond to the width of the insulation plate with a slight deficit so that it fits tightly into the spacer.

In addition, the cotton wool should be sandwiched between the two layers of the waterproofing film.

Minvata on the frame

To securely fix the slab to the ceiling, you can use a special adhesive, as well as special dowel-nails with wide heads.

Along the protruding beams of the frame, the finishing layer of the ceiling is attached for finishing. It is good if there is a small air gap between the insulation and this layer.

Roof work

If the attic is planned to be made residential, it will be necessary to insulate the pitched roof itself from the inside (non-residential attics are better ventilated and last longer if they are insulated along the floor).

The work here is one of the most problematic, due to the height and inaccessibility of many areas.

As a material, usually one of the following is chosen:

1. Expanded polystyrene (extruded or regular).
2. Mineral wool (preference is for thicker mats, as well as mats with a foil layer).
3. Sprayed polyurethane foam (the most comfortable, fast and efficient).

The layout of building materials can be as follows:

• roof;
• lathing that will provide an air gap;
• a membrane that allows steam to pass in one direction (only for mineral wool);
• insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• slats;
• fine finishing.

None of this is needed for polyurethane foam.

It is sprayed directly onto the roofing material and closed with a fine sheeting.

If electrical wiring runs through the attic, it must either be placed in a special casing, or run over the layers of the heat insulator.

Conclusion

Insulating the attic may take longer than planned, so carefully prepare everything in advance, calculate and think over the sequence. Especially if you plan to insulate the pitched roof and work with mineral wool.

There is no need to convince anyone of the need to insulate a dwelling. Thermal insulation of the roof is one of the important points in construction, because heat is very actively escaping through the ceiling.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

What are the ways to insulate the ceiling under a cold roof, in an unheated attic. Choose a material for insulating the attic: mineral wool, polystyrene, foam, sawdust, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool - which is better. Installation methods, technologies.

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof

In private houses, it is very important to preserve the heat inside each room as much as possible. For this, various methods of thermal insulation are used. In addition to working with the walls, in such a situation, do not forget about the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the cold attic. In the house, it serves as the border between the external cold and the comfortable internal warmth.

Basic Rules

For buildings in which a cold roof is installed, it is important to calculate in advance the use of an optimal thermal insulator. It will simultaneously perform several functions:

• in winter, heat-insulating characteristics are used, which do not allow warm air to escape to the outside;
• in summer, the roof heats up, and the insulation does not transfer high temperature to the rooms;
• at any time of the year, laying insulation on the ceiling will increase the sound and sound insulation of the premises.

Selection of material

Before properly insulating the ceiling under a cold roof, it is necessary to select a material with the desired characteristics:

• resistance to moisture;
• maximum fire safety;
• minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• ecological cleanliness;
• duration of operation.

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof in most cases is carried out using the following substances:

• loose expanded clay (you need to work with it from the side of the attic);
• slabs of mineral or basalt wool (it is applied both from the side of the room and from the side of the attic);
• sawdust (they are used with clay solution);
• ecowool (made on the basis of cellulose);
• foam plates or its varieties (differ in availability and ease of installation);
• polyurethane foam (an expensive but effective material that requires special expensive equipment).

You need to know that before properly laying the insulation on the ceiling, it is necessary to calculate the increase in load. The slabs must be able to support the added weight. Most modern materials meet this standard.

Installation work

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof can be carried out with any of the listed materials. However, the work carried out and the result obtained will have their own characteristics:

• materials produced in slabs are laid on the surface and fixed to it according to the same algorithm;
• the introduction of gruel from polyurethane foam or ecowool is carried out with special equipment, in this process all kinds of cracks are filled and irregularities are smoothed;
• loose expanded clay or vermiculite are leveled evenly over the surface.

It is allowed to lay the insulation not only in one, but also in two or more layers. For false ceilings, the planks are fixed to the floor joists. For rolling levels, the thermal insulation is placed on the cranial beam.

It is imperative to put a vapor barrier in the space between the beams. There are several common ways to use it:

• for false ceilings, it is spread inside the room, and it is fastened there with construction brackets;
• in rolled ceilings, the material is spread over the boards and the cranial beam.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool from the attic side requires proper laying of the material. This will ensure proper operation of the insulation and a long service life. In the process, it is necessary to take into account the following rules:

• a positive effect is achieved in the absence of gaps between the slabs with cotton wool and the ceiling beams, so that such gaps do not cause heat to escape through them;
• the preparation of the slabs is carried out in such a way as to ensure a clear hit in the width between the beams, without the formation of a wave from excess, because heat will also leave from under them;
• it is necessary to place cotton wool in such a way as to ensure the most snug fit to the vapor barrier under it and the beams around the perimeter

• when the ceiling is insulated from the side of the cold attic with mineral wool, then it must be separated with a layer of waterproofing that blocks the material from cool air and moisture.

Adequate overlap must be ensured when laying waterproofing and vapor barriers. In this case, all joints or seams of materials are sealed along the entire length with tape.

An air cavity must be left above the waterproofing layer. For this, slats with a height of 25-35 mm are nailed along the beams. The finishing layer of thermal insulation of the ceiling of the house from the side of the attic is a board or plywood. They are stuffed over the rails.

A similar scheme is used to work with varieties of expanded polystyrene. However, in this case, there are some nuances.

Before properly insulating the ceiling in the house with foam plates, it is necessary to cut them out as clearly as possible, but they still cannot fill the space due to weak flexibility. To get rid of cracks, polyurethane foam is used. It is inserted into all seams to reduce heat loss and fix the expanded polystyrene boards.

Using polyurethane foam spraying

One of those gaining wide popularity is the method of insulation with ecowool or expanded polystyrene. At the initial stage, it requires a significant financial investment, but later the payback is sometimes a couple of seasons due to high productivity.

When applying polyurethane foam, there is no need to use a vapor barrier. The material itself will wither high moisture resistant qualities. Due to its liquefied state, it penetrates deeply into all areas where other insulation cannot reach. The absence of seams in the finishing layer also makes it possible to do without a waterproofing layer.

Working with ecowool

Considering the question of how to properly insulate the ceiling in a house, you need to pay attention to ecowool. Under it you need to lay a vapor barrier. This step is due to the fact that there are a large number of fibers in its structure that can sink through the cracks into the room below.

The material forms a quality seamless layer. It is often used to fill the space between already filled planks. Pouring begins after dismantling some of them, forming a technological hatch. Through the resulting space, a dry mixture is pumped into the voids. Ceiling insulation is also carried out in a bath with a cold roof. It is necessary to introduce mass between all beams.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof: diagram, photo, video, step-by-step instructions

When insulating walls with different materials, do not forget about insulating the ceiling from the side of the cold attic. In the house, it serves as the border between the external cold and the comfortable internal warmth.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof

Greetings to experienced and novice DIYers! This time we will consider how to reduce the heat loss of a house with a "cold" roof by installing a heater. As you know, more than 30% of the heat escapes through the roof, if the roofing cake or ceiling does not have insulation, and this is not enough to agree.

Choice of technology

Usually, one of two options is used to insulate the ceiling under a "cold" roof, namely:

• installation of insulation on the ceiling inside the room (if the height of the ceilings allows it);
• thermal insulation of the sub-floor of the attic.

In the first case, only a rigid heat insulator is used - basalt wool mats or slab polystyrene foam. The attic floor is less demanding - mineral wool or glass wool in rolls, bulk materials (expanded clay, sawdust, etc.) are suitable.

Tools and materials

For preparatory work we need:

• wood putty, fire retardant composition (for wooden floors);
• deep penetration primer, cement putty (for concrete slab);
• putty knife;
• brush;
• polyurethane foam and a knife.

To install thermal insulation from inside the room, we need to prepare:

• electric drill with drills;
• wooden slats or aluminum profiles + vapor barrier film and tape (for subsequent sheathing);
• glue + plastic nails with umbrellas and a rubber hammer (if you are going to make a stretch ceiling).

If you decide to insulate the floor from the attic side, then you need to stock up on:

• vapor barrier film and tape;
• wooden bars;
• nails and a hammer.

Preparatory stage

The first step is to properly prepare the base. In wooden floors, small gaps must be filled with wood putty, large gaps are foamed. Remove excess aggregate after hardening with a knife. Apply a fire retardant antiseptic to the entire surface to be insulated with a brush or spray.

Concrete ceiling requires stripping of decorative finishes, as well as base plaster if it does not adhere well. Small cracks must be deepened and widened, repaired with putty, wide cracks must be filled with foam. If you plan to stick the insulation, do not forget to treat the floor surface with a contact or a similar primer.

Be sure to hide the hidden wiring in the corrugated pipe. To ensure a snug fit of the slab insulation, it may be necessary to make slots for the wiring in the material.

Installation of insulation on the ceiling using glue

If you plan to install stretch ceilings in the future, you don't have to bother too much, but just stick the heat insulator on the ceiling.

This can be done as follows: we apply the adhesive to a sheet of heat-insulating material, and then press it tightly against the ceiling. As glue, you can use "liquid nails", polyurethane foam, or cement-based glue (mixed according to the instructions and applied with a spatula pointwise, with volumetric blotches).

Additionally, attach the heat insulator to the base with "mushrooms" - for this, use a drill with a 6 mm drill to prepare holes for fasteners (4 per sheet, retreating about 100 mm from the corners), and drive polymer nails with umbrella hats into them with a rubber hammer. The seams between the insulation boards should be foamed. It should look like this:

Installation of a heat insulator on the ceiling - frame method

If you are going to sheathe the ceiling with sheet material or clapboard, we put the thermal insulation between the frame slats. To install the frame, we need to do the following:

1. prepare a lathing scheme (the step of installing the slats should be equal to the width of the polystyrene plate or be 30-40 mm less than the width of the basalt mat when insulated with mineral wool);

2. using a tape measure, a level and cords, make a markup;

3. attach wooden slats to the ceiling (recessing the caps of self-tapping screws in wood) or an aluminum profile (using straight hangers), the fixing step is 500 - 600 mm;

4. Carefully check with a level that all elements of the crate are located horizontally and in the same plane - you can pre-stretch the transverse control cords;

5. fill the gaps between the slats and the ceiling slab with a suitable heat-insulating material;

6. insert a sheet heat insulator, additionally it can be fixed by bending the shelves of direct suspensions;

7. if necessary, foam the seams between the elements;

8. install a vapor barrier - the membrane is fixed on wooden slats with staples, and on aluminum ones - with double-sided tape.

We insulate the ceiling from the attic side

The general scheme for warming the attic space is as follows:

The wooden structure is covered with a vapor barrier membrane - the film canvases, fastened with tape, are laid on the surface, strictly repeating its relief. Pre-check if the height of the log is sufficient to properly lay the selected insulation. If the thickness of the heat insulator is greater, additional bars are stuffed onto the logs.

Place the roll or board material between the joists, the material should fit snugly, without voids, to the base. The structure of mineral wool and glass wool allows it to be mounted in a spacer, but at the same time the mats should not bend, the rolled material should not be tamped and strongly squeezed. Fill the gaps around the foam boards with polyurethane foam. Next, a roll-up waterproofing is mounted, a counter-lattice is stuffed and you can start laying the floor covering.

Backfill insulation

A thick layer of expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top of the vapor barrier (polyethylene film or glassine is used). Expanded clay is resistant to fire and does not require processing, and sawdust should be laid in layers, treating each layer 100 mm high in fire with a bioprotective compound. Or sawdust is pre-mixed with clay, lime and a small amount of water - the resulting mass is resistant to fire and damage by rodents.

How to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof: we understand all the details

Uninsulated pitched roof is historically the most widespread type of low-rise construction in Europe. Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof has always been used in countries with cold winters. Unlike wooden, brick and adobe walls, which were considered sufficient protection from the cold and uninvited guests, the ceilings were covered with low-density natural materials, which created a barrier to warm air leaks into the attic. Since then, technology has revolutionized our understanding of home construction, but the cold under-roof layout remains very popular. We analyzed current technologies and prepared answers to the most common questions regarding this topic in this review.

The choice of insulation technology

It is said that a correctly asked question contains 50% of the answer. Knowing the physics of the processes occurring in the cold under-roof space, it is possible to single out the most important criteria for choosing thermal insulation and evaluate all technologies based on them. The attic in buildings of this type is traditionally designed taking into account the possibility of cold ventilation. Both in summer and in winter, air flows are directed upward.

Ventilation of an uninsulated attic

To maintain this movement, two natural outlets are made: for the flow going between the tiles and the waterproofing, the joint between the membranes opens under the ridge of the roof, and skylights are provided for the heat rising from the ceiling. Our ancestors have empirically found out that it is impossible to hermetically seal a space that is not heated. Excess moisture should freely evaporate from all house structures.

It should be noted that all traditional building materials have two characteristic properties: high vapor permeability and increased capillary activity. The latter means that moisture moves inside the structure in a certain direction due to the forces of surface tension. However, since then, many materials have appeared that are completely different in physical properties from clay, brick and wood. It is logical that the issue of insulation can be solved differently for them.

So, in order to figure out how to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof, we will consider the main technologies in terms of vapor permeability and capillary activity:

Insulation of the ceiling with sawdust

• Vapor-permeable backfills. From sawdust, peat, pine needles, sand, straw, used for centuries, to expanded clay granulate, which appeared in the 20th century and more modern ecowool
• Breathable fiber materials.
• Plate heat insulators with low or zero moisture saturation. These are expanded polystyrene (foam and EPS), as well as plate glass.
• Seamless hydrophobic (solid) insulation. These include sprayed polyurethane foam.

Taking into account the peculiarities of the structural performance of ceiling slabs is equally important for any insulation technology. The power elements that perceive bending loads are:

• Wooden beams. In the vast majority of low-rise private residential buildings.
• Concrete plates. In second place in terms of prevalence after wooden beams.
• Steel trusses. They are used relatively rarely. However, in connection with the development of modular construction from thin-walled profiles, the popularity of this floor option is growing.

In the case of beams and trusses, the thermal insulation layer can be located in one of four possible positions: from the inside of the room on the false ceiling, from the attic side on the flooring, between the beams (trusses) over the false ceiling, or between them, but below the flooring.

The use of bulk insulation in a house with a cold roof

Insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay

In this case, even if the profile of the floor beams is not enough to form "pockets" with a depth of 30 - 40 cm, they can be extended with wooden planks. After all, reducing the space in the non-residential subroofing space does not affect anything.

It is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier film under the backfill, but it is not recommended to cover it with anything on top. It is better to provide high-quality roof waterproofing. The backfill should be well ventilated.

Features of the use of thermal insulation wool

In the last year and a half, new fiber insulation materials, in particular, construction padding polyester, have been introduced into practice. In this regard, today it is already relevant to single out a whole group of thermal insulators that combine mineral wool, synthetic winterizer and other synthetic materials, according to such key features as high vapor permeability and low capillary activity.

Insulation of the ceiling from the attic side

Why is construction wool not the best solution for internal insulation of an attic floor? The fact is that when they cover the surface from the side of the room, the dew point shifts in the direction of the finishing ceiling covering. The thermal insulation begins to take over the condensation.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool, glass wool or construction padding from the attic is carried out with the obligatory observance of the sequence of layers:

1. Vapor barrier membrane. It is laid on top of a rigid floor base, if the flooring is made along the beams, or it is mounted on the lower ends of the beams, if the insulation is supposed to be installed between them.
2. Thermal insulation.
3. Waterproofing layer. If the roof has its own high-quality waterproofing, it is allowed to limit itself to a wind barrier.

No ventilation gaps are needed between these three layers. It is important to observe only free access of air to the surface of the wind or waterproofing.

Contact with communications

What to do if a ventilation duct or chimney runs through a timber beam ceiling? If there is a beam in the path of a vertically oriented highway, it is cut, and the load is transferred by the transverse elements to the adjacent beams. In this case, the distance from the outer surface to the strapping of the lintels must be at least 100 mm.

Connection of pipes to the insulated ceiling

The chimney is lined with polystyrene foam plates 40-50 mm thick, not only in the intersection zone, but also along the entire length of the structure's exit from the roof. Membranes are tucked in (vapor barrier - down, hydro-barrier - up), and covered with bitumen tape to tightly adjoin the expanded polystyrene pipe sleeve. The gates are then crimped with a strapping of wooden bars using dowels that go into the walls of the chimney.

The same should be done with ventilation ducts with one exception: in most cases they are not sleeve. Electric cables are attracted by clamps to the beams, and in the places of passage through the membranes, the places where the films are turned are sealed with foil tape and fixed with plastic clamps.

Vapor-proof slab materials for insulating attic floors

If we revet the rough ceiling from below with vapor-tight slabs, then four questions disappear at once: moisture condensation in the thickness of the insulation, protecting it with highly diffusion membranes, providing ventilation and protection from above from moisture from the roof or dew falling out of the air in the attic space.

On the other hand, there is a problem of protecting wooden beams from waterlogging at the points of contact with a vapor-proof insulation. Therefore, we will consider the specifics of the use of extruded polystyrene foam, foam and foam glass, depending on the load-bearing structure of the floors.

Concrete slabs or steel trusses

Thermal insulation of EPSP from the inside requires sealing of joints

Concrete is the simplest case. EPPS is mounted to it with glue from below or from above, from the side of the cold attic. There is no need to take any additional measures to ensure insulation or safety of materials. The only thing, as in all other cases, it is necessary to take care of sealing the joints between the plates and at the joints of the ceiling with the walls. If the walls in the room are lined with insulating material from the inside, you should also choose the internal placement of the insulation on the ceiling to eliminate possible cold bridges. With external insulation of walls, the EPSS ceiling is insulated both from above and from below, depending on the ease of installation, the way of using the attic space and other secondary factors.

Styrofoam and foam glass are best used for outdoor work. Even brands of high-density foams (PSB-S 35 and PSB-S 50) are distinguished by the presence of pores, which, on the one hand, leads to the emission of a small amount of styrene, and on the other, to some moisture saturation. Therefore, the slabs of this material are mounted on glue from the side of the attic space, and from above they are covered with a waterproofing film laid overlapping with sealing of the joints.

Ceiling insulation with foam glass is carried out from the attic side

Foam glass insulation of the ceiling with a cold attic is also performed from the outside, but for other reasons. Firstly, these slabs are much heavier, and secondly, it is more convenient and cheaper to seal the joints between them - to use bitumen mastic, which is not suitable for internal work for environmental reasons.

All of the above also applies to the insulation of floors with these materials, which have a power base in the form of steel structures with flooring from boards or OSB boards.

Wooden beams

From the inside, decoratively painted beams and a layer of insulation from the attic side

Thermal insulation in joists is usually placed in caissons between the beams. If you do not ensure tight contact of EPS (using foam glue) or foam with wood and do not allow the beams to evaporate excess moisture, this will lead to their rapid waterlogging. Therefore, it is imperative to install a vapor barrier membrane from the side of the room, and from the side of the cold attic, mount a hydro-barrier that allows moisture to pass from bottom to top. At the same time, the space above the hydro-barrier must be free for effective ventilation. It is unacceptable to perform any flooring in the attic with this method of insulation. Therefore, this situation is not applicable if the attic is supposed to be used for household needs.

At the same time, the tree remains open on three sides, which significantly increases its service life.

Polyurethane foam insulation

Insulation of the PPU ceiling

For environmental reasons, the technology is recommended for outdoor use only. If a floor with wooden beams is insulated, it is best to install a flooring on top of them and spray polyurethane foam on this surface. Wrapping a tree in a PU foam blanket is not a good idea, as is the case with vapor-tight slabs. But the advantages of PPU are indisputable: the material is a champion in energy efficiency.

How to determine the required thickness of ceiling insulation

All you need to do is determine the desired indoor temperature and make a list with all the structural materials in your home and their thicknesses. Next, open any arbitrary online calculator for thermal construction calculations and enter your data and region of residence in the input field. However, the recommendation received should not be taken as dogma. Reducing the layer thickness in comparison with the recommended one is quite acceptable. One should only be aware of the fact that saving on thermal insulation is just a delay in payments, which will surely happen in the form of energy overruns for heating and air conditioning.

Video: theory and practice of floor insulation from the side of a cold heart

In each situation, you should strive to use all its advantages. The cold under-roof space is intensive ventilation of the ceiling from the outside. Therefore, the use of vapor-permeable insulation materials from the attic side should be considered as one of the most acceptable, especially if the floors are made of wooden beams.

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof - thermal insulation features

How to properly insulate the ceiling from the side of the cold attic? The specifics of the thermal insulation of the ceiling under a cold roof. The choice of insulation and insulation technology.

Greetings, dear readers, the topic of today's article is how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse and what is the best way to do it. In the last article, we chose the optimal ceiling height, now we will go directly to the device and insulation of the bath ceiling.

A bit of theory. We all know perfectly well that warm air is lighter than cold air and rises up to the ceiling. And imagine the situation - hot steam has gone up, and the ceiling is cold. What's going to happen? That's right, condensation will fall out. You bathe with brooms in the bath, and the rain is dripping on you :). Let's see how improper insulation of the ceiling and the lack of vapor barrier can harm:

• Constant wetting of ceilings and, as a result, their premature destruction.
• Very fast cooling of the bath, perhaps in the cold season, the steam room will not be able to warm up properly.
• Excessive consumption of firewood or electricity.
• The real danger of collapsing ceilings.

Correct insulation of the ceiling

In this one we will tell you how to avoid all these problems and properly insulate the ceiling. The whole process can be roughly divided into three key stages:

1. Insulation of the ceiling of the steam room.
2. Moisture insulation of the attic.
3. Vapor barrier.

At this time, we, as builders, have a serious advantage over our ancestors - the modern construction market offers the widest range of various thermal insulation materials for every taste and budget. Let's take a look at the most popular thermal insulation materials.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bath - popular materials.

Mineral wool- the most common insulation material among our compatriots. It is very much appreciated for its good insulating qualities, for its ease of installation and, most importantly, for its cost. Mineral wool consists of many basalt threads, intertwined in a chaotic manner, among which there are billions of tiny voids filled with air. Such a mixture of air and basalt keeps heat well and is great for insulating the ceiling of a bath. But min. cotton wool has one big drawback - it is afraid of moisture. When wet, mineral wool cakes strongly and at times loses its thermal insulation characteristics. Inexpensive and practical.

Expanded clay- this material is often used for insulation of ceilings. Expanded clay is a lot of small granules, each of which weighs less than a gram. The required layer of expanded clay laying is 20-30 centimeters. Although one granule weighs practically nothing, such a mass of expanded clay in a small section of the ceiling will exert a significant load on the ceiling slabs, which must also be taken into account when designing.

Basic insulation materials

People's insulation- a mixture of clay, earth, sawdust or straw. The most budgetary option, but unfortunately not the best. A layer of earth (2-3 centimeters) is laid on the ceilings, a layer of sawdust or straw is laid on top of the ground.

Polypropylene- modern heat-insulating material, recently replaced by mineral wool. It is a very lightweight and comfortable foam structure material, which is specially designed for the insulation of saunas and baths. The material itself keeps heat well, and the foil side of polypropylene reflects thermal radiation in the manner of a mirror. The use of penotherm allows you to reduce the heating of the sauna and bath by 2, or even 3 times.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bath

Let's go directly to the installation of thermal insulation. The installation of the ceiling is made after roofing cake laid down and the walls up. The roof is especially important, otherwise your insulation could suffer outdoors.

Consider the main methods of ceiling insulation in a bath:

• Flooring (for small baths).
• Hemming (for large baths).
• Panel (alternative to the first two).

It also makes sense to consider two types of construction of a bath - with an attic and without an attic. It is best to make a bath with an attic room. First, you will have where to dry the brooms :). Secondly, a large air gap between the ceiling and the roof will significantly reduce the heat loss of the ceiling and save on insulation. Of course, provided that the roof is properly insulated.

The most popular method of warming a bath

This method is suitable for baths with or without an attic room. The main condition for insulation is the mounted ceiling slabs. Before starting the installation of thermal insulation, you need to treat wooden beams with an antiseptic. We present to your attention, in my opinion, the most correct installation scheme for insulation:

Stage 1... From the inside of the bath, we attach a vapor barrier to the ceiling. We talked in detail about the vapor barrier of ceilings in the bath in this article. In short, a vapor barrier is best suited for a bath, which includes a layer of aluminum. Aluminum protects vapor barrier and thermal insulation well from moisture, and also reflects heat radiation back into the room, which reduces the warm-up time by 2! times. The vapor barrier is attached to the beams using a construction stapler; the attachment points are best treated with a special heat-resistant sealant. The seams of the vapor barrier are glued with tape, the vapor barrier sheets are overlapped with an overlap of 4-5 centimeters.

Laying the vapor barrier - sectional diagram

From a different angle, white material - vapor barrier

Tight installation of thermal insulation

As you can see, even a beginner in the construction business can insulate the ceiling of a bath. In the attic, we also recommend that you lay special guides and lay the floorboard. And the waterproofing is safe, and free access to the attic. You can start harvesting brooms.

Folk method of warming

Watch a video on how to insulate the ceiling with clay, sawdust and straw.

Voting is your choice of insulation

Dear bath attendants, we are always glad to receive feedback from our readers. Please leave your opinions on the insulation of the bath, your advice and suggestions, we will be happy to add useful things to the article. And now I ask you to vote:

A modern bath is the ultimate dream of many owners of summer cottages and country houses. The construction of this building must be carried out taking into account the existing rules and technologies. In particular, its functionality and comfort directly depend on how correctly it is possible to insulate the ceiling in the bath. The operation of this facility implies the creation of a given microclimate inside a given air temperature and humidity significantly higher than the average for the street and residential premises.

The inability to properly insulate the surface, as well as ineffectively performed thermal insulation work, will require increased energy consumption during heating. In addition, condensation will settle on the walls and ceiling, which, dripping and draining, will interfere with enjoying all the benefits of a bath and will gradually damage the roof structure, increasing the threat of fungus.

Types of roofs in the bath and how to insulate them

The design of modern baths, regardless of the material for their manufacture, can be of two types:

• with a warm roof;
• with a cold roof, which provides for the installation of heat and waterproofing directly under the roof on the floor.

According to the laws of physics, heated air always rushes upward, and, without encountering obstacles in the form of insulation, it will freely leave the room, reducing energy efficiency.

Ceiling insulation in a bath with a cold roof can be done in two ways:

• from inside the premises - simple and easy-to-implement technologies that are suitable for objects with high ceilings, allowing them to be reduced by 15-20 cm, depending on the insulation and decoration used.
• outside the premises - it is advisable to use it for low buildings, the bearing capacity of the roof of which allows the installation of insulation on the ceiling in the attic space.

The choice of materials for insulation of the ceiling in the bath

The modern construction market offers many materials with which you can insulate the ceiling of any design, structure and area with high quality and inexpensively. The main task for doing insulation with your own hands is strict adherence to the laying technology, as well as the installation of additional layers of steam and waterproofing. Given the harsh operating conditions of ceilings in bath rooms, the insulation used must meet the following characteristics:

• resistance to sudden changes in temperature;
• low absorption and stability during prolonged exposure to a humid environment;
• resistance to fungi, rodents and other biological microorganisms;
• simplicity and high speed of do-it-yourself installation;
• sufficient level of fire safety;
• low thermal conductivity to create and maintain the desired indoor climate as long as possible;
• complete environmental safety of the material.

Consider the most common options for thermal insulation materials used for the ceiling in the bath. This will help determine the better one or the other insulation in each case.

Expanded clay

It is a natural bulk material obtained by firing clay shale. The packing density of the material depends on the selected fraction. The smaller it is, the higher the density. Among the main advantages of this insulation is complete environmental safety, as well as resistance to any humidity in the air and temperature extremes. It is non-flammable and odorless, and does not generate dust during operation.

Given the structure of this material, expanded clay insulation is carried out only outside the premises. He falls asleep from the side of the attic floor, if the design of the bath provides for such a space.

The technology for performing work with this material provides for the following procedure:

• cleaning the surface from dirt and foreign objects;
• installation of a vapor barrier film, which is attached with a stapler or double-sided tape;
• expanded clay is backfilled with a layer of 15-30 cm;
• from above, the material is covered with a waterproofing film;
• the final stage of such insulation is the installation of the roof or plank floor of the attic.

Among the main disadvantages of the solution to insulate the ceiling in the bath with expanded clay, experts call the inability to perform installation from the inside of the room, as well as use only on flat surfaces or with a minimum slope.

Ecowool

Although this material has not yet become very widespread, it can be used as a modern, high-performance insulation for the ceiling. It consists of the finest cellulose fibers, which are harmless to humans and perfectly perform thermal insulation functions in the room.

The technology of working with this material provides for two methods of application. Dry installation assumes external laying of the material with subsequent compaction. In turn, the wet application of ecowool is more effective, but requires special equipment, with the help of which the material is applied under pressure to the surface to be insulated. Among the main advantages of using this insulating material, experts point out:

• complete environmental safety and the ability to easily endure sudden temperature changes;
• has a long service life and does not lose its qualities during use;
• minimum weight allows installation on surfaces with low load-bearing capacities;
• non-susceptibility to the occurrence of fungi and lack of attractiveness to rodents;
• treatment with fire retardants speaks of increased fire safety and a tendency to self-extinguishing in case of fires.

Mineral wool

When deciding which insulation is better, many opt for this particular insulating material. Building supermarkets offer users three types of this fibrous heat insulator:

• glass wool;
• basalt wool, which includes waste from the mining industry;
• slag wool made from blast furnace melts.

This material has low thermal conductivity and is resistant to fungal growth and other biological organisms. Mineral wool is resistant to sudden changes in temperature and is classified as non-flammable. It comes in the form of slabs or rolls, which can be conveniently mounted on any surface.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is effective, which with the help of this material can be performed both from the inside and from the outside of the ceiling. In both versions, a vapor barrier must be installed at the bottom of the material, and a hydro-barrier at the top. This will help rid the material of its main disadvantages:

• the ability to absorb and accumulate moisture;
• evaporation of phenols, which may be part of the insulation.

Installation of mineral wool from the inside of the building is carried out on a pre-prepared crate, in the openings of which the material is installed. The frame is most often made of wood, but in some cases a galvanized profile can also be used. The surface of the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier and finishing material. In the case of a bath, it can be lining or other structures made of natural wood. You can learn more about the technology of warming rooms with mineral wool by watching a step-by-step video.

The technology for installing this insulation from the attic side is the same as from inside the room. The only difference is the lack of lathing, since the laying is done between the lags. In general, mineral wool can be laid on any surface, both in a frame bath and in a permanent brick structure.

Expanded polystyrene

Despite some disadvantages, this material is one of the most common and is excellent for effectively insulating the ceiling of the bath from the outside. It is easy to install, does not absorb moisture and has low thermal conductivity. Low weight and the ability to cut to any required size, allow installation on the surface, without regard to the bearing capacity of the building.

The disadvantage of extruded polystyrene is the risk of emission of harmful particles during combustion. Work with this material is carried out as follows:

• leveling, cleaning and surface preparation;
• laying of vapor barrier material;
• installation of thermal insulation material;
• fixing plates with special plastic dowels;
• insulation of seams between plates;
• screed filling or laying on top of the thermal insulation layer in the outer part of the ceiling.

Polyurethane foam

This material is one of the answers to the question - how can you insulate the ceiling in a bath. The only limiting factor in its use is the need for specialized equipment for its application, the rental of which can be quite expensive. Among the main advantages of such material are:

• high thermal insulation properties;
• resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• high strength of the coating;
• the ability to work both in a log bath and frame, brick or cinder block buildings.

A mixture of shavings and clay

It is excellent in its characteristics and at the same time affordable insulation used from the attic side. Sawdust and clay are mixed in a ratio of 10 to 1. Vapor barrier films are placed below. The layer thickness should be at least 20 cm. After drying, the surface is treated with antiseptics and covered with a hydro-barrier.

Warming with earth

This technology belongs to the ancient and is suitable for insulating the attic space of a log bath. Blocks are stuffed onto the ceiling, the height of which should be at least 6 cm. Further, insulation with foil is performed. A layer of clay is laid on top of it to level the surface. After that, you can insulate the ceiling of the bath with earth, the layer of which should exceed 20 cm. To isolate the surface from moisture, a hydro-barrier is placed on top.

Reed insulation

Mats made from these plants can also be excellent, ecological insulation. They are overlapped between the joists, forming a surface with perfectly insulated joints. This natural material is suitable for lovers of eco-construction. Reed is not susceptible to a decrease in its properties during operation, its cost is lower than any similar materials. In addition, its low weight allows it to be used in buildings with low load-bearing capacities.

Insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The main function that the ceiling in the steam room should perform is to isolate it from the penetration of steam, which should accumulate in the room and not leave it during operation. For this, two layers of vapor barrier and a layer of insulation are installed from inside the room.

The standard scheme for insulating a steam room is as follows:

• the lower part of the floor beams is sewn up with boards;
• roll-up shields are made. These are structures consisting of two layers of perpendicularly knocked down boards, between which a vapor barrier film is fixed. They should be located loosely to each other with a gap of 5 cm. Wooden surfaces should also be at least 25 cm away from the chimney;
• the wooden surface of the boards is impregnated with special antiseptic compounds;
• insulation is mounted on the shields. It is necessary to isolate all sections of the ceiling;
• then the ceiling of the steam room is upholstered with foil. It increases the vapor barrier function and makes the surface fire resistant;
• the next layer is the finishing layer, which is treated with fire-fighting compounds.

After that, the insulation of the ceiling in the steam room from the inside can be considered complete.

Conclusion

Based on the foregoing, we can safely say that ceiling insulation in a bath is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, the result of which can have a direct impact on the functionality, efficiency and ease of use of such facilities. It is best to entrust the complex of the above works to specialists, but if you have the necessary tools, equipment and basic skills, you can do it on your own. The main task when performing insulation is strict adherence to technological processes and a willingness to follow all the rules for performing work until the desired result is obtained.

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof or attic? What is the difference, how to avoid mistakes?

Home page »What is the best way to build a bathhouse» Thermal insulation of a bathhouse »Thermal insulation of a ceiling in a bathhouse» How to properly insulate a ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof or attic? What is the difference, how to avoid mistakes?

Going to a hot bathhouse to take a steam bath, we certainly put on a warm hat, although for a beginner it looks more than strange.

But the hat is like a heat insulator that absorbs moisture and protects your head from overheating. So during the construction of the bath itself - the insulated ceiling is the most important part.

It is unacceptable to forget about this after insulation of the floor and walls, for which different materials are used. In order for the bath to keep heat well, it is necessary to correctly select the insulating material and the method of thermal insulation of the ceiling, of course, taking into account the type of roof.

The main types of attic roofs

Types of sauna ceiling insulation:

• outside- more convenient in execution, most effective for a ceiling located under an uninsulated roof, insulation is laid out on the attic floor and closed with a rough or final floor;
• from within- prolongs the durability of the material, there are no temperature changes, but you will have to "steal" a few centimeters of the bath height, a frame is mounted on the ceiling, after the first layer of vapor barrier is fixed, and a heater is placed in it, then again a vapor barrier and a ceiling covering is attached.

With a cold roof or with an attic - what's the difference

In the presence of an attic floor, there is a problem with a penetrating temperature threshold from the steam room, from where a large amount of steam, warm and hot air rises and, accordingly, if it is not properly disposed of, it will accumulate in the attic space. Therefore, in order to insulate the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof, you should carefully calculate the thickness of the ceiling insulation taking into account the loads and take care of the best vapor and waterproofing.

There is an opinion that it is not necessary to insulate the ceiling in a bath with an attic, but it is more necessary to increase the thermal insulation characteristics in it than in a non-insulated attic space, where the heat penetrating outside does not encounter serious obstacles on its way.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof

Warm air is lighter than cold air, so it rushes upward. Without meeting a barrier, it will heat the atmosphere, in order not to take part in the progress of global warming, it is necessary to organize the correct thermal insulation. The air masses filling the under-roof space of course keep the heat leakage, but this is not enough.

With competently performed thermal insulation measures, the time for heating the room is significantly reduced, fuel is saved, heat and steam are saved longer, and the service life of the ceiling increases. Installing thermal insulation in a multi-layer top floor system prevents many types of thermal leakage.

How to insulate

Before laying the thermal insulation layer, a vapor barrier is laid. It prevents the transit of humid vapors and their settling in the insulation layer, because water accumulated in the thermal insulation will increase the weight of the ceiling system and deteriorate the insulation properties.

As a vapor barrier layer, they use: aluminum foil, thickened cardboard impregnated with linseed oil, waxed paper, a special film with lint, membrane material.

For more information on using foil, see this page.

How to insulate

Insulation of the ceiling with sawdust

Traditionally, people insulated wooden houses with sawdust and lived, did not grieve in warm houses in severe frosts. The people recommend to this day to insulate the ceiling with dry straw and fragrant sawdust. They are environmentally friendly, safe, hypoallergenic, natural. No special skills or special tools are required to use them.

In the presence of a solid foundation, a vapor barrier is first laid: roofing material, rubimast, high-strength cardboard or membrane film; the edges are displayed on the sides of the beams and are attached with a stapler to prevent spilling down. The slots are pre-blown out with polyurethane foam. Then sawdust is poured, in pure form or with impurities.

Insulation compositions based on sawdust

Insulation compositions based on sawdust are:

• clean- sawdust of different fractions is used, the rough layer is coarse shavings - 10 cm, the finishing layer is another 10 cm fine, usually this thickness coincides with the height of the beams, from above so that the sawdust does not scatter, spread a diffuse membrane;
• with clay –
  • first option: a layer of crumpled clay is laid out - 20-25 mm, on top of sawdust, as a heat-insulating layer - 10-15 cm, dry earth - 10-15 cm;
  • second: in equal volumes, shavings are mixed with clay and laid out on a prepared base 10 cm thick; the ratio of clay and sawdust 2: 3;

• with cement - sawdust is mixed with cement, in a ratio of 10: 1, mixed with water to a very thick solution, laid in a layer 20-30 cm thick, an antiseptic and anti-combustion agents are added if desired.

Clay based mortars

Clay concrete- obtained by mixing: sawdust, clay, lime, cement or gypsum with water. To knead 1 cube you will need: 200 kg of sawdust, 300 kg of cement, 70 kg of lime, 300 kg of clay, 350 liters of water. First of all, dry components are combined, then lime and clay are added. It turns out a solution with good thermal insulation qualities, durable, reliable, inexpensive, does not rot.

Clay-sandy- the ratio of sand and clay is 2: 6, water is added to the consistency of sour cream. The slots of the flooring are covered with liquid clay, after drying, the vapor barrier membrane is overlapped by 15-20 cm, the joints are glued with foil tape, with a mixture of sand and clay we evenly cover the base with a thickness of 5-7 cm, after hardening, we fill it with dry sand 10-15 cm, you can mount the logs on top and a clean floor.

Expanded clay

Bulk type thermal insulation material. An environmentally friendly product made from clay, perfect for thermal insulation of the ceiling of a bath. Basic properties: non-flammable, does not emit harmful substances when heated, light weight, does not create additional load. For insulation of the ceiling, expanded clay is used with a fraction size of 4-10 mm, a layer thickness of at least 30 cm.

Useful video

Watch the video on how to properly use expanded clay for ceiling insulation, what mistake to avoid:

Minwatoi

Fiber insulation based on minerals, produced in the form of mats, plates, rolls. It is considered the most effective for thermal insulation of the ceiling, a long service life, although its cost is higher. Mineral wool properties: good heat retention, noise insulator. Spread out between the floor lags. For a bath with an insulated attic, a thickness of 10 cm is sufficient, with a cold ceiling of 15-20 cm.

Other heaters

ecowool from small cellulose fibers;
expanded polystyrene plates- a favorite among heat-shielding building materials, due to the ease of installation and low cost;
folgoizol used to keep the heat of the ceilings of baths and saunas, it does not corrode and decay from the environment.
polyurethane foam- material sprayed with the help of special equipment.

Ceiling insulation in a bath with an attic

The attic room is the coldest in the bath, because does not have a "thermal cushion", therefore, insulation of the ceiling in a bath with an attic is the most important task, with such a constructive construction scheme, both the floor of the second floor and the roof are insulated. After all, excess heat from the bath fully heats the attic room, and the heat-insulating layer does not allow it to overheat.

Keeping warm under the roofing material is also necessary. Both winter and summer, you will be comfortable. Under the summer sun, the roof heats up, the outside heat is added to the heat coming from the steam room, as a result, on a bath day, you will get hell on the second floor.

How to insulate

An approximate "pie" of insulation from the inside of the steam room (about heaters for the steam room here) is as follows:

1. lining;
2. rail;
3. foil glued with tape;
4. rough board 150 x 20 mm;
5. floor beam;
6. glassine;
7. expanded clay - 120 mm;
8. insulation Rockwool - 50 mm;
9. glassine;
10. batten.

Useful video

See the explanation of the above illustration of the roof top pie with an attic:

How to insulate

What kind of insulation material to use? Yes, everything that is listed above, from time-tested, natural, natural insulation to ultra-modern (wood chips, shavings, sawdust, sand, expanded clay, mineral wool, basalt wool, ecowool). More information on sauna heaters here.

conclusions

Heat leakage problems need to be solved comprehensively, and not only those that are discussed in this article. There are no trifles in the organization of thermal insulation, window and door openings, walls, roof, ceiling, floor - everything must be done correctly, in compliance with building codes and calculations, taking into account your region. When insulating the ceiling in a bath with an attic, you should also take into account the features of thermal insulation of buildings made of different materials: foam block, brick, frame, timber or logs.

Where to order or buy

When building a bathhouse or having problems with maintaining heat in an already operated building, it is better to turn to professionals or get their qualified advice than to comprehend construction science by trial and error. But for those who prefer to master the technique of building and thermal insulation of a bath on their own, you should pay attention to companies selling heaters.

Insulating the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof: 4 best ways

A cold roof is not designed to retain heat, so it will be very uncomfortable to wash in a bath with such a roof. How to insulate the ceiling in a bath, so as not to face such a problem? We'll figure out.

Why insulate the ceiling in the bath

If the roof of the building is cold, it means that it is not insulated. The roof space is separated from the street only by a layer of waterproofing and roof elements. This gives certain advantages:

• low weight of the structure;
• savings on the purchase of building materials and installation;
• lack of ice in the cold.

But there are also disadvantages. The biggest one is heat leakage. And as a consequence, the need to heat the room is much more intensive. If a bathhouse is covered with a cold roof, the situation is aggravated by the presence of moist heated air. It rises to the non-insulated ceiling, cools down and forms abundant condensation, which spoils building structures and drips onto people inside.

The presence of condensation on ceilings and on the ceiling is highly undesirable. Moisture penetrates into the structure and begins to destroy it. Depending on the type of coating, it passes at different speeds, but always fast enough. Fungus and mold, dangerous to humans, appear. The only way to solve all the problems is to insulate the ceiling.

Competent insulation technique

Under the insulation, it is supposed to lay a layer of insulating material that will keep the heat inside the room. However, only the insulating layer in the bath is not enough. He will not be able to fulfill his task, since it will become saturated with moisture and deteriorate. In order for the insulation to last for a long time, it is required to lay three layers of insulating materials.

Layer 1: vapor barrier

The main task of this layer is to prevent fumes from entering the inside of the insulation. All vapors rising from the heated room must be contained. As an insulator for this layer, materials such as glassine or roofing that have been tested over the years can be used. Or more modern geosynthetic coatings, various membranes and thermofol. Well, if the coating is foil, then it can also screen heat, returning it to the room.

Layer 2: thermal insulation

The second layer of insulating cake should trap heat without letting it out. A wide variety of materials can be used here. Which to choose, will tell you the budget and your own skills in carrying out construction work. It is important that the insulation is as light as possible (then it will not create an unnecessary load on structures that is resistant to moisture) and non-combustible, as simple and convenient as possible to install.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof?

If the ceiling is not insulated in a bath with a cold roof, condensation will accumulate on its surface. Chilled drops of water dripping from above onto people in the bath will clearly deprive them of the expected pleasure. Water droplets falling further upward with warm air currents will contribute to rotting and complete destruction of ceiling ceilings, and in general - roof rafters. The only way to prevent the occurrence of such troubles will be the arrangement of ceiling insulation in a bath with a cold roof.

Planning of works on thermal insulation of the bath roof

Before purchasing the building materials necessary for work and preparing the necessary tools, you need to draw up a detailed plan for the insulation work performed. Drawing up a plan will avoid mistakes and alterations of the roofing structure.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling and roof of a bath is not a very laborious work, therefore it is not difficult to do it with your own hands, even in the absence of sufficient experience in carrying out repair and construction work. The main thing is that it is necessary to strictly adhere to the sequence (technology) of performing installation operations. Another argument for carrying out independent thermal insulation of the ceiling is the availability of the necessary thermal insulation materials - they are available in almost all hardware stores.

Ceiling insulation in a cold-roofed bath includes 3 stages:

1. Thermal insulation.
2. Laying a vapor barrier layer.
3. Waterproofing.

At the end of the work, a structure is obtained that looks like a puff cake, in which the lowest layer is the ceiling overlap, and above it layers are sequentially arranged: steam, heat and water insulators. Then you can start choosing the necessary building materials.

The choice of heat insulator for the roof and ceiling of the bath

In a well-heated bath, it is necessary to maintain sufficiently high values ​​of humidity and temperature. Thermal insulating building material should be fully suitable for such requirements and, most importantly, it should not emit substances hazardous to people and the environment during heating. And besides this, a good heat insulator for a bath should not support combustion, be excessively heavy and inconvenient for moving and laying.

Minvata

One of the most common options for fibrous heat insulators for insulating the ceiling in a cold-roof bath and individual housing construction, available in 3 types:

• glass wool;
• slag wool produced from blast furnace waste (slag);
• stone wool, made from melts of basalt and other minerals.

The main advantage of mineral wool, in addition to very low heat conductivity: mold and fungus spores do not develop on it, and insects and rodents bypass it. For a bathhouse located on a land plot, this advantage of mineral wool is very important. It should also be noted that this building material does not change its volume and shape when the ambient temperature changes, does not support combustion, it is very convenient for installation, due to its low weight. Mineral wool is produced in rolls or in the form of rectangular sheets / panels.

There are two disadvantages of mineral wool - the high ability of mineral wool to absorb any moisture (especially slag wool) and phenolic compounds contained in it. These 2 drawbacks are easily eliminated: with the help of good hydro and vapor barrier and prevention of contact of air flows and mineral wool, especially in the interior of the bath room.

Important: when performing any work with mineral wool, it is necessary to be in tight outerwear, and to use protective devices (glasses and a respirator) to protect the eyes and respiratory organs, since its small elements affect the skin, eyes and lungs of a person.

Expanded clay

This building material is represented by small porous clay pebbles. For all its properties, expanded clay is considered the most suitable heat insulator to insulate the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof.

Thermal insulation of the roof of a bath with expanded clay

This material is safe - it does not support combustion, does not harm people and the environment, does not emit pollutants and substances harmful to humans. Expanded clay - durable, does not collapse under the influence of the sun's rays. Spores of fungi and bacteria do not develop in this building material, it is inexpensive and its installation is simple.

Also, expanded clay absorbs significantly less water than mineral wool, however, it is also necessary to use hydro and steam insulators for its installation.

Styrofoam

More recently, this thermal insulator was one of the most popular among all thermal insulation building materials. But, despite its excellent heat-insulating properties, it is impossible to use polystyrene to insulate the roof or ceiling of the bath - this building material is flammable, and when burned, it releases toxic substances that are dangerous to human life. It can also decompose and lose its shape when exposed to high temperatures in the bath.

Ecowool

It is a fibrous natural heat insulator made from cellulose fibers with various additives that give additional properties - resistance to combustion and protect against the appearance of rodents, microorganisms and insects. Ecowool has a low specific weight and can fill absolutely all gaps and crevices.

As well as expanded clay, ecowool is an environmentally friendly heat insulator that does not emit hazardous substances into the air.

Roof insulation with ecowool

However, this heat insulator has a significant drawback - it absorbs a lot of liquid, which leads to a deterioration in the heat insulating properties. Therefore, when using ecowool, excellent ventilation of the under-roof space and a high-quality layer of waterproofing are required. Another disadvantage of its use is the complexity of installation, with the "wet" method of installation, special equipment is required.

A mixture of cement and sawdust

This is a "classic" building material, insulation, which was used before the appearance of foam and mineral wool. Sometimes clay is used instead of Portland cement, and sawdust is replaced with straw.

Important: the sawdust used in this mixture should be dried for several months, and even better - for a year.

This is a very cheap and environmentally friendly thermal insulator, but with low thermal insulation characteristics. In addition, the preparation of the mixture is very laborious.

Materials for hydro and vapor barrier

The vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath is very important, otherwise the moisture circulating in the room will worsen the properties of the heat insulator and lead to the development of mold and mildew both on the ceiling itself and on the details of the rafter structure. For vapor barrier, special films and coatings are most often used - in particular, with anti-condensation membranes (preferably with a foil layer). At the moment, the leading positions in the market are occupied by Technonikol vapor barriers.

As a waterproofer, you can also use both special films and cheaper building materials - roofing material or thick polyethylene.

Ceiling insulation in baths

There are 3 main types of ceilings in baths:

The ceiling of the floor type is common in small baths, which are used seasonally and quite rarely. On the upper parts of the walls, boards that are adjusted to each other are placed, fixed without supporting beams. The resulting structure is very simple, but it cannot withstand a lot of weight, so the heat insulator layer must be thin and light.

Important: a floor-type ceiling must be erected just below the upper boundary of the walls in order to get space for filling expanded clay or placing mineral wool.

From the side of the attic space, a film vapor barrier is placed on the flooring so that the foil on it is directed downward. The vapor barrier itself is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and the joints and seams are sealed with special vapor barrier tape with a layer of foil.

Mineral wool is laid on top of the vapor barrier, expanded clay or cement-sawdust mixture is placed. The insulation layer should not be thick.

Then the heat-insulating layer is closed from above with a waterproofing agent (film or roofing material) on top of which boards or plywood sheets are nailed.

Hemmed ceiling insulation

For a ceiling of this type, the upper parts of the walls do not have a flooring, but support wooden beams made from beams or spliced ​​boards. Then, from below and above, on these support beams, the attic floor and ceiling are placed. And in the space between the attic floor and the ceiling, layers of heat, steam and waterproofing are mounted.

Stages of the installation of a false ceiling in a bath

The process of placing a heat insulator is as follows. From the side of the roof, a film waterproofer is placed on the beams and attached with a stapler. Next, boards or plywood sheets are laid on top of it. The hemmed ceiling is durable, so the resulting under-roof space can even be used as an attic.

Mineral wool is placed between the beams. The thickness of the heat insulator depends on the location of the bath structure: for middle latitudes 15.0-18.0 cm, in areas with severe winter frosts - 20.0-25.0 cm. ...

A vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from below. On top of the vapor barrier, the slats are fixed perpendicular to the beams.

After that, the lining is laid, which is nailed or fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the slats.

Insulation of a panel-type ceiling is the most difficult and practically not used for self-production. First, the panels are made directly, and then they are lifted up and fixed - either on the cross-beams or on the upper parts of the walls.

Important: the choice of the type of ceiling and thermal insulation building material must be performed based on the planned budget, construction experience, the area of ​​the bathhouse and the frequency of its use.

Having decided to build a bathhouse, it is important to take into account the specifics of the operation of such a room. This is significant temperature and high humidity. Therefore, good thermal insulation is required. A problem is brewing: how to insulate the ceiling in the bath. Knowing all the nuances of the organization and characteristics of the materials used for thermal insulation, it is possible to optimally calculate your costs without losing the quality of construction work.

Warming in a bath is one of the important stages Source www.vodkatonik.com

Do I need to organize the insulation of the ceiling

The heated air masses rise upward. The lack of a good thermal insulation system allows humid air to:

1. Drops on the ceiling. If the question of how to insulate the ceiling of the bath was not resolved in time, the drops formed at the top will periodically fall down, spoiling all the pleasure of bath procedures.
2. Reach the roof, attic and ceilings, damaging them.
3. Increase the consumption of resources for heating.

Source stroyfora.ru

Having decided how to insulate the ceiling in the bath, it is possible to cope with such difficulties:

1. Uncomfortable finding due to falling drops from the ceiling.
2. The destruction of the structure itself.
3. Unreasonably high consumption of resources to maintain the desired temperature.

Advice! In order to solve the problem in the best way, it is necessary to know the technological qualities of materials, and the procedure for performing the necessary work.

Basic steps: everything you need only

To understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in a bath, you need to understand that the work being carried out should resolve the issues:

• Vapor barrier.
• Thermal insulation.
• Waterproofing.

Source banya-ili-sauna.ru

With proper organization, multiple layers are created. The lower one is vapor barrier, the second one is thermal insulation and the final one is protection from water. All layering must be securely fixed so as to prevent deformation.

The choice of the type of insulation: all options

The specifics of the construction should be taken into account when carrying out hydro, heat and vapor insulation works. Based on this, it is much easier to choose a ceiling in a bath - what is better to make of will depend on the following characteristics of the materials:

• Moisture resistance.
• Fire safety.
• Resistant to various temperatures, even high ones.
• Ease of installation.
• Weight.

Source stroytorg.zp.ua

Minwata is the most popular option

In the process of solving the problem of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the attic side, the choice often falls on mineral wool. This term itself combines several of the following types.

The advantages of using this material to solve the question of how to insulate the ceiling of a bath:

• low thermal conductivity;
• no flammability;
• low weight;
• ease of installation;
• preservation of parameters at temperature extremes.

Source www.garrityinsulation.com

In addition to the listed advantages, it is important that mineral wool does not attract mice, and does not serve as a favorable environment for the development of mold. It is sold in two forms of release:

• Rolls.
• Separate panels.

Mineral wool also has disadvantages:

• the content of phenols harmful to health;
• small particles of material can damage the skin, mucous membranes, eyes, respiratory tract;
• moisture absorption.

Source vsparket.ru

The weaknesses of the mineral wool during operation can be bypassed if the work is done correctly in compliance with all the requirements for insulation. When working on insulation, safety precautions must be followed in order to avoid getting the material onto open areas of the body, into the respiratory system, and eyes.

Polyfoam: there are more disadvantages than advantages

This material is rarely chosen due to significant drawbacks:

• flammability;
• emission of pungent smoke during combustion;
• lack of resistance to significant temperatures.

Source www.beboss.pro

During operation in the bath, the foam will be exposed to high temperatures. Since this circumstance is enough for the material to begin to decompose, expanded polystyrene is not the best choice, despite the good thermal insulation performance.

Expanded clay: cheap and long-lasting

This heat-insulating material consists of small clay, porous and smooth stones. Expanded clay is a good choice in terms of thermal insulation, which has many advantages:

1. Virtually infinite lifespan, as the material does not deteriorate.
2. Environmental friendliness.
3. Non-flammability.
4. Does not create a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms.
5. Easy to install.
6. Has a small price tag.

For your information! Expanded clay absorbs water, but much less than all varieties of mineral wool.

Source stavstroi26.ru

The oldest type of insulation: sawdust with cement

This type of insulation was especially relevant before modern building materials appeared, for example, mineral wool and other materials that have already become familiar. However, even now it is quite possible to apply this option.

The composition is collected in the following ratio (the amount is determined by the area):

• 1 part cement;
• 10 parts of well-dried straw;
• 1 part lime.

Another way to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the attic in the "old-fashioned" way:

1. Dry ingredients are mixed.
2. The required amount of water is added. The composition should be moderately thick so that it spreads well over the surface, and there is no void left.

Advantages of the method:

1. Environmental friendliness.
2. Cheapness.

Source banya-ili-sauna.ru

Flaws:

• lower thermal insulation qualities in comparison with modern materials;
• labor intensity of the process;
• there is a high probability that additional treatment will be required to seal the cracks formed as a result of drying.

Important! The hay, sawdust or straw that is used must be very well dried.

Ecowool: is natural material always the best

If you look for how to insulate the roof of the bathhouse so that the materials are as environmentally friendly and safe as possible, then ecowool will give many competitors a head start.

In the process of making ecowool, cellulose is used. So that natural fibrous material does not serve as a breeding ground for pathological microorganisms and mice, it is subjected to mandatory additional processing.

Advantages of ecowool:

• light weight;
• environmental friendliness;
• good adhesion to the surface;
• high thermal insulation.

Source prouteplenie.com

But the material also has disadvantages:

• ecowool has the ability to absorb moisture, which requires a very reliable hydro and vapor barrier;
• the complexity of installation, requiring special skills and equipment.

For your information! Ecowool is applied by the so-called "wet method" - spraying.

Video description

And a little about heaters in the video:

The choice of material for waterproofing and vapor barrier

Additional protection against steam and water is necessary, no matter what kind of insulation is chosen. Without it, moisture will reach both the insulation and the supporting elements, damaging them.

Vapor barrier can be provided by the following coatings:

• aluminium foil;
• geosynthetics, etc.

Source stroimsami.online

Advice! If there is a choice, it is recommended to give preference to those materials that have a layer of foil.

For waterproofing use:

• roofing material;
• plastic wrap;
• special films.

Source sk-sota.ru

For your information! Dense polyethylene and roofing felt is a cheaper option in comparison with special types of coating.

Various types of ceilings: features of the work

Depending on the type of ceiling in the bath, the list and nature of the work required for the organization of insulation is determined. Types of ceilings:

1. Panel.
2. Hemming.
3. Grazing.

Each species has its own nuances. If you decide on an independent implementation of how to insulate the ceiling in a bath with your own hands, then even a step-by-step guide will not help in the absence of skills and tools. Trusting professionals is the best solution. At the same time, it is quite enough to have general information about the procedure for performing work and materials.

False ceiling: for small baths

This type of organization is usually chosen for small bath rooms that are not used on an ongoing basis. A decking ceiling is built from boards fitted to each other, which are laid on the upper part of the wall. In this case, support beams are not used.

Source kakpotolok.ru

Important! The suspended ceiling has a simple structure, but is not designed for heavy loads.

Taking into account the peculiarities of organizing this type of ceiling, one should take into account in advance how wide the layer of thermal insulation can be used. It is best to make a decking ceiling slightly below the top edge of the wall so that mineral wool or other insulation can be placed there.

The order of work that is carried out from the side of the attic:

1. Laying a vapor barrier layer. If there is a foil layer on it, then it should be facing towards the bathhouse.
2. Laying the selected insulation, which should not be too heavy and thick.
3. Laying the waterproofing layer. It is important to pay attention to the joints. If possible, the film or sheets of roofing material are laid with an overlap.
4. A layer of boards or plywood sheets.

Source proraboff.rf

Advice! A suspended ceiling can only be used with a small bath area, and when the attic is not planned to be used.

Panel ceiling: the most difficult and time consuming way

This type of organization is considered one of the most difficult. For insulation, separately made panels are used, which subsequently need to be lifted and carefully secured. Each panel is created separately.

It consists of the following structural elements:

• shield - an even layer of boards (this side of the panel will serve as the ceiling in the bath);
• boards attached to the shield;
• vapor barrier, which lining the inner space of the shield with sides;
• insulation placed inside the panel box;
• waterproofing coating.

Source esk174.ru

The organization is completed by a layer of boards, which will be the floor in the attic. All elements must be securely fastened to each other.

For your information! The organization of this type of insulation requires the involvement of an entire construction team.

False ceiling: solid construction

How to make a false ceiling in a bath? This type of ceiling involves the use of support beams made of wooden beams. Instead of a timber, the construction of several boards firmly connected to each other can be used. They fall on the top of the walls.

Fastening of the attic floor and the ceiling of the bath is carried out directly to these beams. The resulting free space between them is used to organize insulation, as well as hydro and vapor barrier.

For your information! The order of work with a hemmed type of ceiling depends on the type of insulation used.

Source www.rmnt.ru

Insulation with sawdust with cement or expanded clay

How to make a ceiling in a bath with your own hands, a step-by-step guide will tell you:

1. Boards that play the role of flooring are laid out on the floor beams.
2. The gaps between the floorboards are treated with a sealant.
3. A vapor barrier film is laid on the flooring (from the side of the bath room and from the attic). It should also cover the beams.
4. Insulation is laid in the resulting containers.
5. Waterproofing is placed on the insulation with a whip.
6. Waterproofing is fixed to timber structures.
7. From the side of the attic, a flooring is organized, which will serve as a floor. For this, boards or plywood can be selected.
8. From the side of the premises of the bath itself, the flooring is closed with clapboard.

Source build-experts.ru

Advice! To increase the thermal insulation properties of the bath shelf, it is recommended to put a layer of mineral wool on top of expanded clay or sawdust with cement.

Mineral wool work

The procedure in which work is performed both from the side of the attic area and from below:

1. From the side of the attic area, waterproofing is applied with an overlap.
2. Plywood or boards are placed on top. This forms the floor of the attic.
3. Go to the room below.
4. The free space between the beams is filled with mineral wool.
5. A vapor barrier material is attached to the beams. The joints must be carefully sealed, and the edges of the film should be slightly bent, going into vertical planes. It is important to carry out the work very carefully so that the film is not damaged.
6. Slats are sewn onto the vapor barrier at an angle of 90º to the beams.
7. A lining is laid on top of the rails.

Source tul.specdispetcher.ru

If the room is planned to be used in severe frost, then it is necessary to provide for a sufficient thickness of insulation - up to 0.25 m.For the middle strip - about 0.12-0.18 m.

Video description

More about the insulation of ceilings in the bath in the video:

Briefly about the main

The choice of the type of organization of insulation and the materials used should be based on the following basic points:

• the pledged budget;
• bath area;
• structural features of the structure;
• the planned frequency of using the bath.