Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, the openings of buildings made of logs and timber, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.
Shrinkage
But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel houses) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this moment is decisive in the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual, in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.
There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period of wood drying. But it's not. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for decades. But that's not all. The tree not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!
- Shrinkage in a log house - about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
- Shrinkage in a house made of timber - about 7 - 10 mm per one timber with a section of 150x150 mm
- Glued laminated timber - unknown.
There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log cabins as a percentage: about 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses made of timber and logs depends on many factors:
- from the material (log, rounded log, timber, glued timber);
- from the time of harvesting the material (winter harvesting or summer harvesting);
- from time of day(morning, evening) Yes-Yes!!! Don't be surprised - explored this too!
- from where the forest grew (marsh, field);on the degree of resinousness and density of the tree;
- on the dimensions of the material - both its length and thickness;
- from the moisture content of the material;
- on the size of the building;on construction technology (nagel, type of felling, etc.);
- from the material of interventional insulation;from the type of wood;
- from the time of year when construction is underway.
The strongest shrinkage occurs in log cabins from ordinary logs, then rounded logs, profiled timber, timber, glued timber go down.
Even if the house is more than a dozen years old, it is still necessary when installing windows in a wooden house to take into account the vertical movements of the walls as a result of an increase or decrease in humidity and air temperature at different times of the year.
Wooden house - Live
A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is not carried out in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box, which acts as a link between the window and the wall. They call this box differently: casing, salary, deck, pigtail, linden.
As can be seen from the photo, the casing is an ordinary window frame made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.
The meaning of this design lies in the fact that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (beam) with nails, screws, or other fasteners, but is held with the help of grooves in the side posts, planted on the spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the pigtails - only tow, jute (lnovatin) and other soft insulation.
Shrinkage clearance
Please note: a large gap is specially left above the pigtail, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible shrinkage of logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to a minimum, but the upper log (beam) of the opening, with the correct calculation, will not press down or deform the pigtail. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not affect the size and shape of the pigtail in any way, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window inside it.
Shrink gap size
If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house, which has long gone through the shrinkage process, then, when disassembling the window blocks, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. not nailed to the beams of the opening, but fixed in it using a simple "groove-thorn" system on the sides.
This suggests that the technology for installing windows and doors in a wooden house in a pigtail was invented a very long time ago, and is used with success to this day. We will not invent anything new and will go the same way.
There are several ways to install a pigtail (for more details, follow the link):
- t-shaped pigtail - a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, a t-shaped profile is laid into it;
- p-shaped - the spike is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side posts of the casing).
We make both options, as they determine the maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the pigtail not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.
Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:we cut an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;
We form a groove for a T-shaped pigtail;
We form a spike for a p-shaped pigtail;
We make pigtail parts;
We install the pigtail in the finished opening;
We install a window in a wooden house in a pigtail, aligning it flush along the front edge, (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such a length that they do not pierce the pigtail through and enter the logs (timber);
We blow out the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the window with foam, not forgetting about the waterproofing device (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for a draft window for sheathing, for finishing it is not required, since the window rests on a quarter) foam seam;
we install external platbands (we fasten to the casing);
we carry out the interior decoration of the window (window sill, slopes - it is not required when finishing the pigtail, since it is the slopes and the window sill).
We use foam only inside the pigtails. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute linen.
For the next 5 years (if the house is freshly built), we will have to periodically remove the trim and gradually reduce the amount of insulation invested there. If this is not done, then the upper parts may bend.
Even after complete shrinkage of the house, the gaps around the casing should never be sealed with foam.
Preparing the opening for installing a window in a wooden house
Before sawing, we mark the window opening with the help of a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly according to the level in all planes, therefore the pigtail should also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible in the initial level.
The lower crown in the opening must be sawn through, so that a flat horizontal platform is obtained.
The dimensions of the opening are determined based on the dimensions of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps.
All calculations are performed visually. Here is an example of a scheme for calculating the dimensions of an opening for a draft T-shaped pigtail:
Accordingly, we take a bar with a section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.
Here is a scheme for calculating the details of a finishing p-type pigtail:
For a p-shaped pigtail, we cut out a p-shaped profile from a solid bar.
The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrink) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage at home, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, calculate roughly, taking everything to the maximum, then for a window of a standard height of 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing beams, plus mounting clearances of ~ 245 mm), with a 15% shrinkage, the upper clearance will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole , the height of which, most likely, will eventually turn out to be unnecessarily large.
To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values of building materials of various tree species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it easier, namely:
If you are building a new house, then start installing windows in it no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, during the manufacture and installation of the pigtail, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for a log house, 50-40 mm for a log house and 40 mm for a house made of glued beams;
If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 40 millimeters, only to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;
So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it out and cut it out. Now you need to cut a spike at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The spike is also marked with a level in the center of the log (beam).
We make the size of the spike 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.
We sew the side and lower part of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.
Making pigtails
First, you need to decide on the width of the pigtail bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be slightly larger, so that later, when installing the outer trim, they (platbands) fit tightly on the pigtail, and not on the wall. There is another option in a log house - a patch around the opening along the width of the groove.
Secondly, for the manufacture of pigtails, it is necessary to take well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself will deform soon when it dries.
First we cut out the lower part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill, we cut a groove for a spike 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.
Also, at the ends of both window sills, we make small recesses of 20 mm each for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.
We make side racks with a height exceeding the height of the plastic window frame by 70 mm. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut a groove for a spike 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock for the upper part in the side racks.
Lastly, we make the upper part of the pigtail. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side parts.
Installing a pigtail
We start installing the pigtail in the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then, an apex is inserted into the opening, under which we alternately substitute the side racks, putting them in grooves on the spikes.
We fasten the pigtail elements together with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not necessary), coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the details do not arch out.
We plug the upper shrinkage gap with soft insulation such as Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external trim. Read more in the article ""
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Now you can start installing the window.
Installing a window in a wooden house
We install a wooden or plastic window by aligning it with the front edge of the pigtail. It is not necessary to bring the window inwards by a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, due to the lower coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood (lower freezing depth).
Especially with the small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, deepening the window into the opening, we will be forced to cut the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that is formed as a result from the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as measurements taken by a thermal imager show, the main conductor of cold is the profile itself. For more details in the photo report made from photographs from the thermal imager, see here.
Black box for trim
If you calculated the dimensions of the opening and the pigtails as described above, then the mounting gaps around the window frame when installed in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on the top and 15 mm on the bottom (the lower gap is not made larger, because the stand profile makes it possible later, put a plastic window sill under the frame, the thickness of which is 30 mm).
It is more convenient to fasten the frame to the pigtail using self-tapping screws the size of such calculations so that they enter the body of the pigtail, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Using self-tapping screws with a length exceeding the thickness of the pigtail is dangerous because they will pass through the pigtail and screw into the logs (bar), which is unacceptable.
Provided that all the preparatory work has been done using the level, the window frame should stand exactly on the pigtail, i.e. the front edge of the pigtail should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.
Window waterproofing from the outside
Before foaming the gap between the window and the pigtail, it is necessary to decide with what material we will waterproof the installation seam from the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If we can simply close the mounting seam from the sun with platbands or flashings, then the situation is more complicated with waterproofing, because it must meet two basic conditions: do not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering.
All these conditions are met by such materials as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant "STIZ-A".
Sealant "STIZ-A" - a one-component vapor-permeable white acrylic sealant for sealing the outer layer - is characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood including.
It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even at negative temperatures down to -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find it in small containers, and it makes sense to buy a whole bucket when you install a lot of windows. If you choose STIZ-A as an external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.
Vapor-permeable waterproofing tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape, consisting of a vapor-diffusion membrane with an adhesive layer of sealant on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, orient it correctly when gluing.
You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (do not forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, the passage of air is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to "blow through" the tape is the outer (street).
The sequence of actions (first the tape, then the foam or first the foam, then the tape) does not matter much, but you need to take into account that the foam, expanding when it dries, not only pulls the tape with a bubble (it will interfere later when installing the trim), but in general it can tear it away from a window or window frame.
Therefore, if you stick the tape in the first place, then immediately screw the trim or hard flashings on top of it, and only then foam it. Or foam first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.
PSUL - pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special composition, due to which it is waterproof and vapor-permeable. Supplied in a compressed state, rolled into rollers.
If you opt for PSUL tape, then buy the one that expands more than 30 mm. PSUL will have to be glued not to the outer side of the frame profile, but to the end near the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to glue the frame with PSUL-ohm even before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.
The assembly seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has fully expanded and blocked the assembly gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with the waterproofing tape: the foam expanding when it dries can squeeze the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL from the street side with platbands or flashings.
Internal window vapor barrier
From the inside, the foam should also not remain open in order to prevent moisture from entering it from the room air. For the device of internal vapor barrier, you can use a vapor barrier tape, which has already been described in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 ("STIZ-B").
The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the pigtail. While the foam under the tape has not hardened, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise the tape "inflated" with foam will interfere with this later.
Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install window sills and the starting profile, as when using a tape. Nothing will stop you from doing it later, when it's convenient.
Interior decoration
The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes for installing slopes - we fix everything with self-tapping screws into a tree (into a pigtail).
It is also not required to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam or other material. To be safe, it is enough to foam the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to the mounting seam before installing the slopes. This will be enough, because the tree does not freeze through as deeply as concrete or brick.
Okosyachka as - window sill and slopes
This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve a greater, in my opinion, aesthetic effect, but this will require a good woodworking machine to evenly cut the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, into which install a plastic window.
What is a reverse quarter can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess in which the window frame will be installed from the street side. Quarter depth - 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: for a 5-chamber VEKA, the profile thickness is 70 mm, therefore the width of the back quarter should be 70 mm.
It is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the pigtail and the window, carefully assemble the pigtail and install the pigtail into the opening exactly according to the level - the inner clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all faces of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without skew. In order not to be mistaken in size, it is better to first make and install a pigtail, and only then accurately measure and order a plastic window in place.
Let's assume that the pigtail is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made in such a way that it turns out to be slightly larger than the "clearance" of the casing, or rather: 10 mm more in width and the same in height. From the inside, such a window will not enter the pigtail, but it will easily enter the opposite quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 5 mm on each side (no longer possible - the leaf hinges will interfere), and an assembly gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.
The frame is attached to the pigtail with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful hermetic joining of the frame and casing from the side of the room, a D-shaped door seal can be used. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the dimensions of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.
But as practice shows, with high-quality manufacturing of the pigtail, the need for such an addition disappears. The window is placed directly in the quarter and the meringue of the gaps is pressed tightly against the pigtail.
When attaching the frame, we firmly press it to the quarter, compressing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window foams from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with a waterproofing tape or smeared with STIZ-A sealant, and platbands are installed.
Of course, since we refuse the interior decoration of the casing with any additional elements, we must ennoble it, i.e. give it a look that matches the interior design of the room.
First of all, you need to give the lower crossbar the shape of a window sill so that its inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.
Second - we make the "dawn" of the inner surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross section) shape of these elements and cut out a large chamfer, simulating the turn of the slopes.
Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and varnish it. It is possible to cover the wood with a stain of the desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and / or the color of the walls.
There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more costly option - to brush the surface, i.e. process antique.
Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood with a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of pile and fibers, then the final gloss is given.
You can immediately cover the tree with varnish, but the "aged" wood will look much more effective after being treated with a stain of the color you need. However, there is an even more spectacular way of coloring - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.
This is achieved with the help of paint of the desired color: the entire front surface of the casing is covered with it, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth until the paint has had time to dry. The final stage of artificial aging is varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. Then you can rub the surface with a soft cloth to give a gloss.
In my house, I decided to replace the windows from wooden to plastic windows. Much has already been said about the advantages and disadvantages of these windows, so we will not dwell on this issue.
Introduction
This article will discuss in detail the installation of windows in a wooden house with my own hands, where personal experience will be taken as a basis - I installed plastic windows in a wooden house myself. Why? There are two reasons for this:
- If you order the installation of plastic windows from the manufacturer, then on average you will be charged for the dismantling of old windows and the installation of a new window in the amount of 40-50% of the cost of the window. Why pay more when installing windows in a wooden house is not at all difficult?
- In most cases (up to 95%), the manufacturer of plastic windows does not guarantee windows that are installed in wooden houses. So if you install windows in a wooden house yourself, you will not lose anything (I mean the warranty period), but only gain - this is money (save on paying for installing windows).
Example: A plastic window costs 5,500 rubles ($184), respectively, the fee for dismantling old windows and installing new ones will be (50%) 2,750 rubles ($92). The total cost of the window is 8250 rubles ($275). I needed to install five windows, taking into account that I did the installation myself, it turned out that I saved 13,750 rubles ($ 459) on this.
Note: I did the installation of windows myself without assistants, on average, it took me no more than 2.5 hours to dismantle and install the window.
Removing old windows
Dismantling the old window
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows in a wooden house requires a solid foundation - a frame. Since my window frames were installed only five years ago and had no damage: a wormhole, putrefactive formations, cracks and chips, I decided to use them as a frame for new windows.
Note: measurements for the windows were made taking into account the fact that the window frames remain in place.
If the window frames still have sufficient strength, they have not rotted, then they can be used, for example, for building a greenhouse. So the work of dismantling them should be carried out carefully and it is advisable to first remove the glass from the bindings of wooden window frames.
I did not take out the glass, since the bindings of the frames had sufficient strength and were easily removed (there were no distortions).
Preparing a place for installing a plastic window
Preparing the opening for window installation
With a clean, dry cloth (you can use a brush), I wiped the surface of the window frame, removed the debris remaining after dismantling.
Installation of a plastic window sill
Installation of a plastic window sill
The window sill (PVC) is the base of the window when it is installed, so it is worth paying special attention to ensure that the installed window sill has the most accurate horizontal surface of the longitudinal and transverse arrangement.
For the strength of the installation of the window sill, I made cuts from the sides of the window box, about 8 mm deep.
Installation of adjusting plates under the window sill
To level the window sill, I used adjusting plastic plates, you can also use fiberboard lining plates or thin wooden planks pre-treated with an antiseptic.
Checking the levelness of the window sill
The horizontal position of the window sill during its final installation and fastening was carried out using a building level.
The window sill was attached to the lower trim of the window frame with the help of self-tapping screws, stepping back from the outer end of the window sill 2 cm, I put washers under the screw head so that when tightening the screw head does not break through the surface of the window sill (the PVC window sill has cavities). After installing the window, the attachment points of the window sill will be hidden under it.
Preparing the window for installation
Preparing the window for installation
The first thing to do before installing the window is to install the handle. It is not necessary to remove the entire protective film of the window surface in order to exclude the possibility of mechanical damage to the window.
The protective film must be removed only at the place where the handle is installed. When installing the handle, the handle must be in a horizontal position (as seen in the photo) - this position of the handle means that the window sash opens to the side, if the handle is lowered down - the window sash will be closed if the handle is turned up - the window sash opens in the ventilation mode .
I fixed the handle to the window with two bolts and moved the handle down (to the “closed” position).
Preparing to mount the window frame
At the ends of the side pillars of the window, I made markings for drilling holes through which the window will be attached to the window block. Two holes - upper and lower in the left window pillar and the same holes in the right window pillar. The distance from the holes to the bottom and top of the window is 25-35 cm.
Holes in the side rails of the frame
After marking, I drilled through holes in the side pillars of the window with an electric drill. Drill diameter 6mm (screw diameter 5mm).
Mounting holes
In order for the screw head to have a hard stop in the metal frame of the window, on the inside of the side pillars, I drilled the mounting holes with a drill of a larger diameter - 10 mm, to the metal frame. The diameter of the hole should allow the head of the self-tapping screw to pass freely into the cavity of the window post.
Installation of a plastic window
Installation of a plastic window
After preparation, we put windows in a wooden house. To do this, install it in the window opening. The center of the window installation was controlled by measuring with a tape measure from the edge of the window to the surface of the window frame on each side, the distance turned out to be the same - 1 cm. it took.
Setting the level between siding and window
In order to install the window parallel to the wall of the house, between the siding and the wall of the house, I installed a building level as a stop. If your house is sheathed with clapboard or other finishing material that fits snugly against the wall of the house, and there is no way to exercise control in the same way as I did, then you will need to use a plumb line.
Installing the spacer bar
Between the window and the window frame, I installed a spacer bar 1 cm wide (it is necessary that the bar fits snugly between the window and the window frame). This bar is necessary as an emphasis at the moment of fastening the window into the window opening using self-tapping screws. Otherwise, the window pillar, when it is fastened, can simply be taken away and the opening-closing mechanism of the window will work poorly or the sash will not open at all.
Fixing the window with self-tapping screws
When the stop bars are installed and the window is aligned parallel to the wall of the house, I fixed it with self-tapping screws. The window was fixed to the window frame only from above and below the side posts so that the self-tapping screw was free in the space between the window and the frame.
Such fastening of the window provides not only reliable fastening, but such fastening turns out to be “floating”. In the case of seasonal shifts at home and possible skew of window openings, the window, not having a rigid binding to the window frame, practically does not warp, since most of the self-tapping screw is in free space and the self-tapping screw moves arbitrarily from the window towards the window frame skew.
Installation of double-glazed windows
Before installing double-glazed windows, it is necessary to install adjusting plastic plates between the drain holes. This is necessary so that the double-glazed window does not block the holes and does not interfere with the removal of condensate through these holes.
Installation of double-glazed windows in the frame
Carefully installed the double-glazed window in the window opening. A double-glazed window should not fit tightly between the window pillars, since in the event of a possible skew of the window frame, the glass may crack, not having free space to move inside the window frame.
So if your double-glazed window fits tightly, and there is no necessary gap between it and window racks (at least 5 mm), contact the company in which you ordered the production of windows and demand to eliminate this shortcoming.
Note: checking the gaps between the double-glazed window and the frame must be performed immediately before dismantling the old windows.
Fixing the double-glazed window with plastic glazing beads
After installation, the double-glazed window was fixed with plastic glazing beads. The glazing bead has a profile spike, which is inserted into the groove of the window frame, with a light tap on the bead, the spike deepens into the groove, if a click is heard, this means that the bead is securely installed.
Filling with mounting foam the space between the window and the opening
After installing the window, I filled the space between the window and the window frame with mounting foam - from the inside and outside of the house.
Removing excess foam with a knife
When the mounting foam hardened, I cut off the excess with a knife.
Everything, the window is installed and you can start finishing with fittings, platbands and drainage.
Attention: Prices are given at the time of 2011.
Not the most secondary issue when building a house out of wood is the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house. The videos presented in the article will help you deal with it, but a certain minimum of theoretical knowledge to begin with will not hurt.
The fact is that the construction of a wooden house initially has its own specific features. Namely: if a building made of ordinary materials shrinks for about a year, then wood remains unstable in terms of physical properties for a much longer period (from five years and more). When it dries, the height of the walls decreases by an average of about 15 mm per meter of masonry. But the height of the wall we have is far from a meter.
What can be the result? A rigidly fixed plastic window in a wooden house with a gap of 25 mm placed on the mounting foam simply will not work, it will jam. So how to insert a plastic window in a wooden house?
The solution is to make the entire structure (the window with its surrounding periphery) slide relative to the wall. How to achieve this?
The easiest option is to cut a groove with a geometry of 50 × 50 mm at the ends of the desired window opening and insert a bar of the same size into it (the connection is not deaf). As a result, the mounted unit will receive mobility relative to the walls.
The option is good, but, unfortunately, it is only suitable for installing wooden windows.
The technology for installing plastic windows in a wooden house, alas, requires a different solution. A special design is installed in the window opening - casing (pipe). You can see her options here:
To put it even more simply, a spike (comb) is made at the ends in the window opening, along which the following design slides:
It is assembled from vertical bars 100 × 150 mm and boards 50 × 150 mm (horizontal lintels).
The assembled unit should be 75-80 mm smaller than the window opening.
This video shows the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house in stages:
The shooting quality is a little lame in terms of quiet viewing, but all operations are shown.
This video in a more relaxed mode shows almost the same actions:
These are the main features of installing plastic windows in a wooden house.
Reading time ≈ 12 minutes
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is currently very popular - it is affordable, holds heat well and does not lose geometric parameters. Against the backdrop of a rise in energy prices, such materials are almost a panacea, so many people are interested in installing a plastic window in a wooden house with their own hands. In the article, in addition to installation instructions, you will find photo and video materials that will help you cope with the task.
Log house with an attic in the process of glazing with PVC windows
Choice of plastic windows
In order to choose a good plastic window that is right for your case, you will have to pay attention to several parameters. Do not neglect these indicators so that during operation you will not have any complaints about the manufacturer or even force majeure.
Features of double-glazed windows
Single-chamber (left) and triple-chamber (right) double-glazed window
The production of double-glazed windows implies not only different manufacturing technologies, but also different glass - this directly affects their performance. Below you will see what they are:
- The usual option with float glass. Such glass has high light transparency and is devoid of any shortcomings.
- Multifunctional double-glazed windows. It has protection against ultraviolet radiation (exposure to sunlight), has a low heat transfer capacity. These features directly affect the maintenance of the microclimate in the room - they do not let in the cold in winter, and the heat in summer.
- Self-cleaning designs. Such double-glazed windows help to significantly save time on cleaning, since the windows do not have to be washed from the outside. The special composition with which the glass is coated, when exposed to ultraviolet (sunlight), destroys the dirt that the first rain will wash away. Leaks and stains do not remain.
- Soundproof options. In this case, thickened glasses and a scientific approach to the distance between them are used. Thanks to the high-quality profile, seal and glazing bead, vibration, as such, is completely eliminated. Such windows do not absorb, but reflect airborne noise, which affects densely populated and industrial areas, as well as houses located near railways and airfields.
- Reflective glazing. They are also called specular because they are shiny and reflective with a reflectance of about 4%. Such options are ideal for hot climatic conditions - they do not allow heat to pass through, they do not heat up themselves, but at the same time they freely transmit photons (light).
- Colored glass panes. Such glasses soften bright light and poorly transmit heat, although transparency does not suffer from this. Properties (retention of light and heat) change with the hues.
- Tinted windows. They have the same characteristics as colored ones, but at the same time, no coloring pigments are used in the composition. The shade changes due to the gluing of a special film.
- Energy saving options with k-glass. This is an ordinary float glass, on which a k-coating (a thin metal film) is applied by the pyrolysis method during its manufacture (in the hot state). This significantly reduces thermal conductivity and increases mechanical strength (glass is placed on the outside).
- Energy saving options with i-glass. It has a reduced thermal conductivity inherent in k-glass. But the i-coating is a thin layer of silver and the glass can easily be deformed, so it is installed inside a double-glazed window.
- Constructions from smart glasses. These are, as it were, “living” windows that change their parameters (transparency and thermal conductivity) when they change from the outside. This category includes energy-saving and self-cleaning windows.
- Triplex glass. It is a multilayer sheet, where a transparent polymer is in the interlayer. This factor does not reduce translucency, but fire resistance and mechanical strength increase (this does not affect thermal conductivity and sound insulation). If such glass is broken, it will not shatter into small fragments, but will be held on the polymer.
Note. Double-glazed windows are also distinguished by the number of chambers. For regions with a temperate climate, one- and two-chamber packages are popular, in cold zones - three-chamber packages.
Video: Insulating glass formula determines the choice
Plastic profile
Five-chamber profile made of metal-plastic
The functionality of the PVC profile for windows can be determined by six parameters, including:
- number of cameras. According to the building standard, 3, 4 and 5-chamber PVC profiles are produced. In this case, the thickness of the first two options is 60 mm, and the third - 70 mm.
- The width of the outer wall can be of three classes:
- A - 3 mm ± 0.2 mm;
- B - 2.7 mm ± 0.2 mm;
- C - 2.5 mm ± 0.2 mm.
- Reinforcing or guiding profile. It determines the rigidity of the frame and its service life. When installing a plastic window in a wooden house, pay attention to its cross section - it should be a galvanized square with a wall of at least 1.2 mm. L-shaped perforated or ferrous metal, especially of smaller thickness, indicates poor quality.
- Rubber seals. High-quality seals are made of rubber and have a guarantee from the manufacturer for at least 10 years. But if at least once a year the inserts are lubricated with special silicone, then the service life will double.
- A high-quality PVC profile does not fade in the sun, does not turn yellow and does not emit a smell, but this depends on its composition:
- TiO2 is titanium dioxide. An effective white dye, which is practically absent in budget profiles.
- Chalk - its allowable rate in cheap profiles is limited to 6%, but unscrupulous manufacturers exceed this parameter by 2-3 times. From this, the plastic burns out, turns yellow, and there is no perfectly smooth surface.
- The manufacturer largely determines the quality. So, Chinese windows are much cheaper, but they will not last long. In the countries of the European Union and in Russia, a law has been introduced on laser marker marks, which are applied every 30-50 cm from the end side. It displays the date of manufacture and the country of origin. If such a marking is present, then there is no doubt about the quality of PVC, reinforcement and seals - they will comply with GOST and SNiP.
PVC window installation process
Below you will find step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. This is not difficult, but it will require the presence of certain carpentry tools - I will not write them out separately and you will learn about them in the process of reading.
Removing old windows
Removing old windows
I offer special instructions for dismantling old windows from the opening so as not to damage those elements that will remain in operation. But this applies only to old houses, where there are already window openings with a pigtail and they meet your needs - this item is irrelevant in a new building.
First of all, all glass should be removed - for this, the glazing bead and all the carnations that did not come out during the elimination of this profile are removed. Sometimes the studs are invisible, so to make sure they are present or absent, run a knife or screwdriver at the installation site of the glazing beads, slightly resting on the glass. If the fixing material remains there, then the blade will definitely stumble on it, and then, as they say, it’s a matter of technology.
In some cases, in order to clog windows to the maximum and get rid of drafts, the glass is glued to the frame with silicone or silicone sealant. In such situations, all attempts to pick up the glass with a knife to tear it off the frame are doomed to failure. There is only one way out - to break the glass, but it can shatter and injure you. To avoid this, a wet newspaper is glued to the glass and broken - all the fragments will fall nearby and not scatter.
The frame rests on nails, which are also very difficult to pull out - it is much easier to cut vertical frame profiles with a hacksaw, as shown in the top photo. After that, pick up a part of the cut vertical with a nail puller and tear it off. Perform a similar operation on the opposite side, and then tear off the diameters with a nail puller. The opening is ready and you can insert a plastic window.
Window casing in a wooden house
So they make a groove for the casing spike in the mortgage bar
First of all, window openings should be cut out and there are two options here. If the plastic windows are already ready, then, of course, you will have to focus on their sizes, but this is more an exception than a rule. Usually, first of all, window (door) openings are cut out and only after that they measure the windows or invite a representative of the company where the windows will be made (this is a free service).
Casing in a mortgage bar (left) and in a deck (right)
To begin with, let's look at the features of the installation of casing (pigtails). Casing into a deck clearly implies cutting a spike along the verticals of the opening, and in the box making a groove for this spike, as shown in the image at the top right. But we will focus on a pigtail with a mortgage bar - it is more popular.
With a mortgage bar, more options. The groove is cut out in the opening according to the size of the bar (usually it is 50 × 50 mm) and the bar is driven into it without nailing it, and a distance of 3 cm is left at the top to shrink the house. But sometimes they make the so-called stud-monolith, this is when the stud is one piece with the vertical of the casing. In both cases, when the wall shrinks, logs or beams will simply slide along the spike without deforming the window frame.
On both sides of the inserted bar, a jute or felt tape is nailed with a stapler - this is necessary for sealing and. Now you can screw a draft box to the bar, which is most often assembled from a 50 × 100 mm pine board. In this case, it is best to use wood screws with a length of 75 mm - they are guaranteed not to pass through the bar and will not reach the edge of the opening. If this happens, then a log or beam may hang on the screw, which will lead to the formation of a gap between the logs.
Now the upper and lower crossbars are inserted, but if it is placed below between the vertical boards, then it is placed on top of them. The gap left should be 3 cm, which means that the distance from the end of the vertical to the top of the opening is 8 cm, that is, the jumper, having a 5-centimeter thickness, after installation will leave 3 cm of free space. The boards of the draft box are best fastened together with metal corners. Now we are talking about installing a plastic window in a wooden house with our own hands, so below you can watch a video on how a pigtail is made.
Important! The use of mounting foam in this case is unacceptable! The foam will glue the box to the opening, which will prevent the logs from sliding freely along the bar during shrinkage.
Video: Okosyachka or casing of the opening - protection against shrinkage of the building
Installation of PVC window sill
PVC window sill
After installing the draft frame (casing), you can proceed with the installation of the window sill - this is the first step to assemble the window within the opening. The fact is that the window sill does not adjoin the transverse profile on the side, but the frame is placed on top - there is a special recess there. But for strength on the sides of the box, you should make a cut of 5-8 mm and insert the window sill there - this way it will hold much better. To level the horizontal level, use plastic plates as supports (mention them when ordering a window if you insert it yourself).
Self-tapping screws with a press washer
The window sill element must be attached to the bottom of the window opening with self-tapping screws, stepping back from the edge of the plastic panel 20-25 mm, and subsequently the heads will be covered with a frame profile. To prevent the screw head from pushing through the plastic, you need a version with a press washer without a rubber gasket, as in the top photo.
Installing a plastic window in a wooden house
PVC frames are always pasted over with a protective film, but according to the installation technology, it is removed only when the window is finally inserted - this protects the plastic from scratches and dirt. To prevent the sashes from opening (this interferes with installation), screw the window handles and put them in the “closed” position (vertically down).
On vertical and horizontal window profiles, holes are drilled on the installation line of the double-glazed window with a diameter of 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fixing screw. Most often, the screw is 5 mm, and the hole is made 6 mm. The hats must be recessed into the plastic, so with a 10 mm drill they make a hole deep to the metal profile. Three holes are needed on the sides, and two at the top and bottom, indented from the corner by 50-60 mm.
At the bottom, the frame is placed directly on the windowsill, but at the top and sides there should be a gap of about 10 mm or a little less. Therefore, to screw the frame evenly, use wooden spacers (they are easy to make yourself). When everything is screwed on, check the vertical and horizontal levels, as well as the opening-closing function of the valves, so that there is no skew.
If the sash closes normally (there is no friction anywhere, and there is a tight fit), then close the window and insert double-glazed windows. It is unlikely that it will be possible to press the glazing bead with your hands, therefore, in order for this profile to fit tightly into the mounting groove, it is finished off with a rubber hammer. Now it remains to blow out the gap between the frame and the draft box with mounting foam, and it will be possible to open the sash the very next day (a precautionary measure against distorting the profile). It remains to make slopes inside and out, as well as install trim, but this is after the final shrinkage of the house.
Conclusion
In fact, the installation of a plastic window in a wooden house, except for the device and installation of the casing, is done in the same way as in a brick, block or monolithic building. But care is needed in any case, so try to remember all your actions and, if necessary, read the article again. You can also print the installation process on a printer and keep it in your pocket while you work, to use when needed.
How to insert windows in a wooden house can be found in the instructions, which will explain to the smallest detail some of the installation features. To insert a window in a wooden house with your own hands, you must follow the sequence of work, which up to a certain stage will be common when installing a wooden window and when installing PVC windows.
The main steps for installing a window:
- Training. At this stage, calculations are performed to determine the size of the window opening;
- Cutting down a window opening and processing it with means from wood damage;
- Preparation of casing parts;
- Casing installation
- Window installation.
After the construction of a wooden frame, do not immediately take up glazing work. The log house should stand for about six months. The strongest shrinkage of the house will take place during this period. Leave the walls deaf for this time so that they are not “led”. If the openings have already been cut out, then before installing the windows, be sure to check how the walls of the log house have retained their linear dimensions using the building level, even if the curvature is not visually visible. If the wall is curved, install a 100 mm by 100 mm beam to level it, bolting it to the wall.
Before proceeding with cutting the opening for the window, calculations are carried out, where the dimensions of the window frame, the dimensions of the gaps, the size of the casing beam should be taken into account. It is necessary to take into account the method by which it is planned to install the casing. In many guides and videos that talk about installing casing, the “in deck” method is described.
Calculations of the opening under the window for the method "into the deck":
- The width of the opening for a window in the wall of a log cabin is equal to the width of the window frame, to which we add the thickness of the casing bars (2 pieces of 100 mm), the gap on the sides of the frame to the casing is 20 mm and 15 mm on the sides for insulation. It turns out that 270 mm must be added to the frame. But this size must be reduced by 50 mm - this is the total size of the spikes in the sidewalls of the opening, which are recessed in the siege. As a result, you need to add only 220 mm.
- In height, the opening should be equal to the height of the window frame, to which the gaps between the window frame and the casing from above and below are added (20 mm and 30 mm, respectively), the thickness of the casing bars (2 pieces of 100 mm each minus 20 mm for the size of the docking grooves) and 15 mm for the thickness of the seal. It turns out an increase in the height of the opening from the height of the frame by 245 mm. But to this we must add the size of the gap for shrinkage of the walls of a wooden house.
Important! A log house and a house made of wooden beams give different shrinkage and a gap between the wall and the upper part of the casing. The largest shrinkage is given by a log frame - in this case, 120 mm should be left for the gap between the top of the casing and the wooden wall.
Having calculated the dimensions of the opening, the window is marked on the wall of the house from the inside so that the lower level is 85–90 cm from the floor.
Note! The lower part of the opening should fall in the middle of the log, where the window sill will be installed.
Preparation of the opening for casing
You can insert windows in a wooden house without casing only in an old, well-established house that no longer shrinks. In all other cases, the installation of casing is mandatory. For casing, a spike is marked in the center of the side parts of the window opening using a building level, on which the casing will be attached.
After marking, the spike is sawn out. First, the cuts are made along the marked vertical lines on the sides of the window opening, and then the logs are cut down to the depth of the vertical cut. As a result, a spike is formed.
After the spike is formed, the logs are cut to install trim on all sides of the window opening. The saw cut places are polished and the entire opening is treated with an antiseptic impregnation, which will prevent wood decay and protect against bugs.
After processing the window opening with impregnation, a jute insulation is strengthened with a stapler around the entire window opening, which will not allow blowing through the window structure. The jute sealant can cover the spike on the sidewalls of the opening, but in this case, by cutting a recess on the sidewalls of the casing, a small gap must be made so that the sidewall can be strengthened on the window opening.
Manufacture and installation of casing
Specialists who know how to correctly insert a window in a wooden house pay special attention to the manufacture of casing parts. It depends on it the durability and quality of glazing.
Important! For casing, you need to choose only dry timber, which will not shrink and does not deform the window.
The casing consists of four parts, which are made of timber 100 mm * 150 mm.
The installation of the casing in the window opening begins with the installation of the lower part - the window sill, which is laid on a jute sealant and the correct installation is checked with a building level.
Before installing the sidewalls of the casing, a sealant is applied to the joints of the casing parts. Another option for assembling the casing may be to coat the joints with sealant after the final assembly of the casing.
The sidewalls of the casing are mounted on the spike until they stop, and with a construction stapler it is checked how exactly each of the sidewalls is installed vertically.
Lastly, the top of the casing is installed, which should fit snugly against the sidewalls. The connection of the top and sidewalls is fixed with self-tapping screws. The gap formed above the tip is closed with tow, from which a roller is formed and wrapped in a jute sealant.
Window installation
Consider how to insert PVC windows in a wooden house. The frame without flaps is installed on chips so that there is a gap below and is aligned horizontally and vertically.
Then, at a distance of 30 cm from the corners of the frame, fastening to the casing is carried out using anchors. The holes in the casing are made so that as a result the dowel is flush with the frame. After installation, all gaps are filled with mounting foam
Window installation options
When we insert windows into a wooden house, video, as an additional source of information, can help if the sequence of work given in the instructions does not fully fit the project of your house. For example, the video below will tell about the situation when casing is not needed for the windows of a wooden house. In addition, this video introduces another way to install casing, which is called "in a mortgage bar." This method differs from the “into the deck” method described in the instructions.
Stages of casing formation using the “in a mortgage bar” method:
- A recess measuring 50 mm by 50 mm is cut out under the wooden mortgage beam;
- A mortgage beam is installed in the prepared recess;
- A jute sealant is laid around the perimeter;
- The casing board is fastened with self-tapping screws to the embedded beam.
Any of the methods of forming the casing allows you to get reliable protection against deformation of the window block.
Installation cost
How much it costs to insert windows in a wooden house, taking into account the preparation of the opening, we will consider in the table.
Firm "Plastic Windows"
| Service type | Price, rub.) |
| Making pigtails | From 1000/m. P. |
| Installing a pigtail with a cut into the groove | From 1 300/opening |
| Window insulation | From 500/opening |
| Installation of PVC windows | In contact with