The hole is all right. But so that there is no water hammer, water must be poured into an intermediate tank - 200 liters. Water in it will additionally settle and there will always be a small supply of water.Do all the wiring from this filter tank, n / st, etc.
The water level in the tank is maintained by an electrical sensor that turns on the pump in the well. It is much easier than blocking heating pipes.hydro impact will not be accurate - it has been working for 3 years now, water flows out in a small trickle. I want to put the hydraulic tank at 80 liters
Not on that, gentlemen, focus your attention
water hammer ... etc.
With a "hole" in the water supply, the air will appear.
Wherever the check valve is installed.
This is bad from very different points of view.Self-regulating cable does not need to be shoved INSIDE the pipes.
Shrubbery and an extra weak link.
Outside, along with reinforced tape and insulation on top with ordinary tape, you can.If the accumulation of water is now automated, then it is logical to do the water supply system after the accumulation tank. For the very idea of \u200b\u200ba "hole", although artisanal, is quite reasonable and economically expedient
Outside, along with reinforced tape and insulation on top with ordinary tape - I think this is reasonable. Now there is no automation. I turn on the remote control, pour water into the barrel, and I turn it off myself, that's all.
I absolutely disagree. The cable solution is graceful in nature. There is a bunch of heating wires specifically for laying inside a drinking water pipe. + sleeves for cable entry. Therefore, it is certainly not handicraft. Well, mounting / dismantling enemies is easier. Checked. I have a 70 cm pipe in the subfield. So I was tortured in the underground to undermine it by a meter, then wrap it up with a cable, then with foil, then with tubofol, and pull it all together, huddled in the darkness for three deaths. After discovering a shortage in the cable, he dismantled all this, simply wrapped the pipe with insulation, and then calmly screwed up the coupling in the room for 10 minutes and immersed a two-meter heating cable into the hose. All). It didn't even bother me that the pipe is only 1 inch.As for the hole, I missed it - if the submersible pump - more air is dissolved in the water itself than from the hole pumping (because it does not pump). And if there is a pumping station, then you must get rid of the hole!
-hydro tank is a pumping station.
In general, it is best to close the hole and put a tap on the tee in front of the check valve, so that before the county you open the tap and drain the water from the hose.I will drain the water from the hose, but I do not have a caisson as to lower the water from the pipe to the depth of freezing.
The cable inside is gracefully in nature, also not bad. and now you bury the pipe by a meter or not.
Friends, you confused me - I asked for advice about a hydro tank - will it work or not, then why.
It is impossible to imagine the full-fledged operation of a modern water supply system. It not only reduces the load on the pump, extending its life, but also comes in handy for back-up water storage. In everyday life, this device is called differently: a hydraulic receiver, a hydraulic tank, a barrel. Before deciding which unit is needed for your system, you should know what types of batteries are on the market, how they work and what they are intended for.
What is a hydraulic accumulator for?
The main purpose of the device is to store hydraulic energy and then transfer it to the water supply system. Quite often, hydraulic accumulators are used in closed heating systems, in everyday life their main functions are:
- maintain the required level of pressure inside water supply systems;
- keep a supply of water in case of a power outage;
- reduce the likelihood of water hammer;
- reduce the number of pump starts;
- prolong the life of the pump.
The principle of operation of the accumulator
The accumulator is a tank with an additional mechanism that creates water pressure inside it. Water enters the accumulator from a well, well or any other source. When the pressure in the tank reaches its maximum value, a sensor is triggered, which turns off the pump. When using water intended for water supply systems, the pressure gradually drops, and when it reaches a minimum, the pump turns on again.
Varieties of accumulators and features of their design
The accumulator can be horizontal or vertical. In the first case, in order to remove the accumulated air, it will be necessary to install an additional pipeline assembly. In vertical-type devices, the elimination of air from the water supply systems is much easier, because the gas accumulates in the upper part, it is very easy to release it. The vertical tank takes up less space, but the horizontal tank has other advantages as well. It is more convenient to connect it to a pumping station, since the design of such an accumulator assumes the fastening of an external pump.
Hydraulic accumulators for water supply systems are divided into two main types - balloon and membrane. The design of the first includes a cylinder, usually made of rubber. It is filled with water under the influence of air pressure, which fills the space around the cylinder. When water needs to be used, the air pushes it into the water supply system. In a diaphragm accumulator, the space is divided into two parts by an elastic partition. One contains air, the other contains water. Balloon devices are considered more practical; in case of accidental breakdown, the balloon can be replaced independently without resorting to the services of a master.
How to calculate the required volume?
It is better to start the choice of a hydraulic accumulator for water supply systems by calculating its volume. Much depends on this indicator: ease of use, load on equipment and, consequently, its durability. First of all, you should determine how much water will be consumed.
A hydraulic tank designed to store water should be large, because its volume should be enough for all household needs. Users of a device have to face a completely different situation, the main purpose of which is to maintain the pressure of water supply systems. In this case, a 20-24 liter tank is often sufficient. It should be noted that it is recommended to start the pump no more than 1 time per minute. For an accurate calculation, it is better to turn to professionals, they will take into account all the nuances of using the equipment and help you decide which hydraulic accumulator you need.
For a family of two, you can choose a hydraulic accumulator with a volume of 24 liters. For three people living in a house, you will need a device designed for 50 liters, and for four - from 80 liters and above. There is no need to purchase a larger tank than necessary. It will not operate at full capacity and will be more expensive not only upon purchase, but also during operation. Excessive amount of water can cause it to stagnate inside the tank, which will not very well affect its quality. However, for systems with a smaller accumulator, pressure surges and water hammers are more likely. If the blow is not strong, it will manifest itself only in a weak wobble of pipes and connecting elements. In case of strong water hammer, it is better to choose a hydraulic accumulator equipped with automatic equipment and a replaceable relay.
A hydraulic accumulator with a metal case will cost more than a plastic one, but it is much more reliable. It is less prone to mechanical damage. Detachable stainless steel flanges will last longer than other materials, they are non-corrosive and extremely durable.
Accumulator models with a volume of more than 100 liters are equipped with a special fitting. It is very useful in removing accumulated air. The fact is that water always contains oxygen and other gases, they gradually accumulate in the tank, they must be periodically removed from the systems. Otherwise, the pressure rises in them, which reduces the useful capacity of the equipment. If a special fitting is not provided, it will be necessary to carry out preventive work about once every 6 months - completely empty the tank and eliminate the accumulated air.
A professional will always advise you to choose a hydraulic tank from a well-known manufacturer. Domestic companies producing these units often offer hydraulic tanks that are in no way inferior to foreign products, they have already managed to prove themselves well in the market. Moreover, such accumulators are cheaper. Russian manufacturers, as a rule, pay a lot of attention to ensuring that the device is fully suitable for local water intake systems. This results in uninterrupted operation of the equipment.
In order not to overload the pump and the tank membrane, it is recommended to purchase a device with a small volume reserve. Sometimes it is better to choose a hydraulic accumulator for water supply systems, designed not for 24, but for 50 liters. The pump will turn on and off less often, the parts of the device will wear less. However, when choosing a larger unit, it is important not to overdo it, in this case the rule does not apply - the more the better. A huge hydraulic tank will only result in high costs for its acquisition and operation.
What type of accumulator to choose?
Hydroaccumulators are vertical and horizontal. The name fully characterizes the way they are installed. Which one to choose if the dimensions of your premises allow you to use both types? Here we would recommend paying attention to the method of removing accumulated air inside the rubber membrane. The fact is that in water supply systems there is always dissolved air in the water. Over time, during the operation of the system, this air is released from the water and accumulates in various places, forming air locks. One of these places is the cavity A of the accumulator. To remove this air, as well as air congestions that arise during the installation and repair of the system, an additional nipple is provided in the design of large accumulators (100 liters or more), through which the air accumulated in the system is periodically vented. When using a vertical accumulator with a capacity of more than 100 liters, air accumulates at the top and can be removed using this air separating valve.
In horizontal accumulators, air removal can be done using an additional section of the pipeline consisting of an outlet air nipple, a ball valve and a drain into the sewer. In this case, the accumulated air should be released periodically once a month. Accumulators with small volumes are not equipped with an air separating nipple. Therefore, the choice of their type is carried out exclusively by the convenience of the layout in your room. Removal of the accumulated air in them is carried out by periodic complete emptying. For this, an additional ball valve can be provided in the pipeline diagram. In addition, air can be removed from systems with a small accumulator simply by periodically (once a week) turning off the power supply to the unit and bleeding the accumulated air through the washbasin or shower tap or other draw-off point closest to the accumulator. However, for greater efficiency, this procedure should be repeated several times. That is, turn off the power supply to the pump, open the cold water tap, completely drain the water, close the tap and turn on the power supply to the pump. And so two or three times in a row.
How to choose the size of the accumulator?
The correct selection of accumulators for individual water supply systems is quite difficult. There is a large amount of background data to consider. In addition to the traditional shower and faucet in the kitchen, modern homes can be equipped with a bath, bidet, sewer, washing machine and other equipment that requires water to operate. In addition to the equipment, the number of people in the house may vary. These are objective factors, but when choosing the size of the accumulator, subjective factors also have to be taken into account. For example, how many times per hour can you turn on the pump and fill the hydraulic accumulator? What happens if several people use water at once? What happens if the washing machine is running at this time?
Note that up to now, in our opinion, there have been no methods for choosing the size of accumulators in Russia. Firstly, because there were no individual water supply systems in Russia. Secondly, people have too different requirements for such systems. We offer you a method for selecting the volume of a hydraulic accumulator, which is based on the international calculation method UNI 9182.
Let's start with the fact that if you only have a water tap, a shower and a watering tap in your house, then you don't need to count anything. You need a standard water supply installation with a 24 liter accumulator. Feel free to buy it. It is optimal in cases where the number of permanent residents in the house is up to four people. Even if you need to increase the number of water sampling points in the future, you can simply buy separately and install another 24-liter hydraulic accumulator at any point in the water supply system.
If you have a house without a sewerage system, but with more than three water sampling points, then in any case a 50 liter hydroaccumulator is enough for you.
The calculation method is intended for individual houses equipped with a sewerage system (septic tank), with baths and other equipment that consume a significant amount of water.
1. Determine the total coefficient of water consumption Su. To do this, make a list of parsing points in your home and indicate the amount of each type of equipment.
2. Complete Table 1. Its second column is a table of frequency factors for each type of equipment (Cx). In the third column, indicate the number of devices of each type of equipment in your home (n). In the right column of the table, multiply Cx by n. Sum the values \u200b\u200bfor this column. You will receive the total water consumption ratio of your home.
Table 1. Determination of the total consumption coefficient Su
3. Depending on the obtained value of the total coefficient Su, determine the value of the maximum water consumption required for your home. These values \u200b\u200bare presented in Table 2.
For example, if you have a toilet, shower, a faucet in the sink, a faucet in the kitchen (one for each device) in your house, then your consumption coefficient is Cy \u003d 3 + 2 + 6 + 2 \u003d 13. The closest value of Cy in the table is 12, therefore, for the normal functioning of the water supply system at home, you need to ensure a maximum flow rate of about 36 liters per minute.
4. To determine the volume of the accumulator, it is necessary to decide how many times per hour (s) it is allowed to turn on the accumulator at the maximum consumption rate. 10-15 times per hour is considered normal. It is also required to assign thresholds for the pressure switch of the water supply station (Pmin and Pmax). The lower Pmin threshold for two-storey houses is usually 1.5 bar, and the upper Pmax threshold is 3 bar.
Then, to determine the volume of the accumulator, you must use the following formula:
where V is the total volume of the accumulator (liter),
Qmax - the maximum value of the required water consumption (liters / min),
a is the number of system starts per hour,
Pmin - lower pressure threshold when the pump is turned on (bar),
Pmax - upper pressure threshold when the pump is turned off (bar),
Po is the initial gas pressure in the accumulator (bar).
Calculation of air pressure in the accumulator
What is the initial air pressure in the accumulator? If you have installed a hydraulic accumulator in the basement, then its minimum value is easy to calculate. You need to take the height in meters from the basement to the top of your water supply system. For example, for a two-story house it is 6-7 meters, for a three-story house - about 10 meters, then add 6 to this value and divide by 10. You will get the required value in atmospheres. For example, for a two-story house 7 + 6 \u003d 13/10 \u003d 1.3 atmospheres. This is the minimum air pressure in the accumulator. Otherwise, water from it will not flow to the second floor of your house. However, these values \u200b\u200bshould not be overestimated, otherwise there will simply be no water in the accumulator. Usually, the manufacturer sets the air pressure to 1.5 atm., But it may happen that the air pressure in the accumulator you bought will be different. You should initially check it with an ordinary pressure gauge, connecting it to the nipple of the accumulator and, if necessary, increase it with a car pump.
The difference between the thresholds of operation Pmax - Pmin determines the amount of water produced by the hydraulic accumulator of the water supply system. The greater this difference, the more efficient the operation of the accumulator, but in this case the membrane is loaded more strongly and may rupture.
The Pmin value (pump activation pressure) is determined based on the hydrostatic pressure (water height) in the water supply system of your home. For example, if the height of the pipes in your system is 10 meters, then the pressure of the water column will be 10 meters, which is equal to the pressure of 1 bar.
What should be the minimum pressure Pmin? The air pressure in the backpressure chamber of the accumulator should be equal to the hydrostatic pressure, that is, in our case, 1 bar. The lower response threshold Pmin should then be slightly higher (by 0.1 bar) than the air pressure in the accumulator.
However, we need the system to work steadily. The most critical, from the point of view of stability, is the highest parsing point (for example, a faucet or a shower on the top floor). The valve works normally if the pressure drop in it is at least 0.5 bar.
Therefore, the pressure must be 0.5 bar plus the hydrostatic pressure of this point. Thus, the minimum value of the gas pressure in the accumulator is 0.5 bar plus the value of the reduced hydrostatic pressure at the point where the accumulator is located (the distance in height between the upper point of analysis and the point where the accumulator is located). In our case, if the accumulator is located at the lowest point of the water supply system, then the minimum gas value in it should be assigned 1 bar + 0.5 bar \u003d 1.5 bar, and the threshold of operation (switching on) of the pump Pmin \u003d 1.5 + 0.1 \u003d 1.6 bar. If the accumulator is located at the top point, and the pressure sensor is at the bottom of the system, then the gas pressure in the accumulator should be set to 0.5 bar, and the pump activation threshold Pmin \u003d 1.6 bar.
When setting the upper threshold for the automatic water supply system, it is necessary to take into account several points, primarily the pressure characteristic of the pump. The pressure generated by the pump in meters of water column divided by 10 will show the maximum pressure value. However, you need to consider:
1. The characteristics of the pump indicate the maximum parameters without taking into account the hydraulic resistance of the pipelines
3. At maximum head values, the pump flow is minimal and your system will take a very long time to fill.
4. With long-term operation, the characteristics of the pump decrease
However, the initial point in determining the upper response threshold is the height of your house, or rather, the height of the water supply system. To determine the high threshold value, add 20 meters to the height of your water system and divide by 10. You get the high threshold pressure expressed in bar.
Hydraulic tanks in individual water supply systems perform several important functions at once. For all of them to work normally, it is important to choose the right unit, taking into account a lot of initial data. For example, the maximum water consumption when using several devices at the same time, the recommended number of pump starts per hour, and others.
Therefore, every owner of a country house should know which accumulator for water supply systems is better to choose. We will talk about the selection parameters based on the design and principle of operation of this device below.
Why do you need a hydraulic accumulator
There are several reasons that force us to use a hydraulic accumulator for an autonomous source using a pump. Rather, no one can force you, but this device provides many advantages, and it would be foolish not to use them.
Among them:
- The ability to maintain the water pressure in the system at a certain level even when the pump is not running;
- The ability to accumulate a certain volume of liquid, and use it in the event of a power outage or pump breakdown;
- The ability to extinguish excess pressure in the water supply system and prevent the destructive consequences of water hammer (see);
- The ability to prevent the pump from turning on every time the water tap is opened.
Note. Any pump is designed for a certain number of cycles of switching on and off per unit of time. If there are more such cycles, the equipment will quickly exhaust its resource and fail. And the hydraulic tank reduces the number of cycles, thereby extending the life of the pump.
What you need to know about the features of the accumulator
In order for the water supply to work normally and stably, calculating the volume of the accumulator is one of the first tasks. Knowing what this unit is, how it functions and how to tune it to the optimal mode helps to solve it correctly.
Design
This is a metal tank, inside which there is a rubber balloon (pear) in which water is accumulated. Air is pumped between the walls of the tank and the cylinder.
Note. In some models, the balloon is replaced by a diaphragm (membrane) that divides the internal volume of the tank into two cavities - air and water.
The hydraulic tank is equipped with a filter and outlets for water and air. As a rule, the fitting for connecting to the water supply is installed at the bottom of the tank, and the spool with a nipple for pumping or bleeding air is at the top. But other design options are also possible.
There is no fundamental difference between these two designs. The only thing worth paying attention to when choosing is the possibility of replacing the inner membrane with your own hands in case of wear.
In this respect, a rubber bulb tank is preferable. To change it, it is enough to remove the flange holding the cylinder in the metal case.
Appointment
Such tanks are installed not only in water supply systems. They are also used in autonomous heat supply from a boiler with a pump (see).
It is important to know that tanks for thermal systems are painted red, and for water tanks mostly blue, but there may be other options - green, chrome.
What is the difference between them:
- The expansion tank for heating mains contains a membrane made of technical rubber that can withstand high temperatures. The design is usually non-separable, so if the internal tank is damaged, the entire tank has to be replaced.
- The cylinder in water tanks is made of food grade rubber that does not adversely affect the taste and properties of drinking water. The design can be either removable or fixed diaphragm.
For reference. Tanks with a fixed membrane are cheaper and have a large margin of safety, but if defects appear on the rubber, they must be replaced. Whereas accumulators with a replaceable membrane or a cylinder are more expensive, if they are damaged, it is enough to change only the internal reservoir.
Inner tank material
Food rubber, as a material for the manufacture of a membrane, can also be different and differ in composition, resistance to high or low temperatures, and durability.
- Natural rubber very flexible, but low resistance to water diffusion. It can withstand temperatures from 0 to +50 degrees.
- Artificial butyl rubber less elastic, but more durable. The working temperature range is from -10 to +100 degrees.
- Artificial ethylene propylene rubber the most durable and reliable. If the instruction for the accumulator contains information that the membrane is made of food grade EPDM rubber, then you can be sure that it will last a long time even with very intensive use. Critical operating temperatures -50 and +130 degrees.
Tank volume - the main selection criterion
The most important question is how to choose the volume of a hydraulic accumulator for water supply systems. To answer it, you need to bring together a lot of data. This is the performance of the pump, and the equipment of the house with water-consuming equipment, and the number of people living in the house, and much more.
But first of all, you need to decide whether you need this reservoir only to stabilize the operation of the system as a whole, or if there is a need for a supply of water in case of a power outage.
If the house is small and equipped only with a washbasin, toilet, shower and watering tap, and you do not live in it all the time, you do not need to make complicated calculations. It is enough to buy a tank with a volume of 24-50 liters, it will be enough for the system to work normally and be protected from water hammer.
In the case of a country house for permanent family residence, equipped with everything necessary for a comfortable life, it is advisable to approach the issue more responsibly. Here are some ways in which you can determine the size of your accumulator.
By pump characteristics
The parameters influencing the choice of the tank volume are the performance and power of the pump, as well as the recommended number of on / off cycles.
- The higher the power of the unit, the larger the volume of the hydraulic tank must be.
- The powerful pump pumps water quickly and quickly turns off if the volume of the tank is small.
- Sufficient volume will reduce the number of intermittent starts, thereby extending the life of the electric motor.
To calculate, you need to determine the approximate water consumption per hour. For this, a table is drawn up, which lists all devices that consume water, their number and consumption rates. For example:
Since it is almost impossible to use all devices at the same time, a correction factor of 0.5 is used to determine the actual flow rate. As a result, we get that on average you spend 75 liters of water per minute.
- Let's say the capacity is 80 l / min or 4800 l / h.
- And during peak hours you need 4500 l / h.
- With non-stop operation of the pump, its power is quite enough, but it is unlikely that it will work for a long time in such extreme conditions. And if it turns on more often 20-30 times per hour, then its resource will run out even faster.
- Therefore, you need a hydraulic tank, the volume of which will allow you to turn off the equipment and give it a break. At the indicated frequency of cycles, the water supply should be at least 70-80 liters. This will allow the pump to be idle for one minute out of every two by pre-filling the reservoir.
It is important! Keep in mind that the total volume of the accumulator and the maximum volume of water in it are far from equal. Water only takes up about a third of the interior of the tank.
To use this formula, you need to know the settings of the pressure switch that turns the pump on and off. The following picture will help you figure it out:
- 1 - initial pressure Pair (with the pump off);
- 2 - water entering the tank when the pump is turned on;
- 3 - reaching the maximum pressure Pmax and turning off the pump;
- 4 - water consumption with the pump off. When the pressure reaches the minimum Pmin, the pump is switched on.
The formula looks like this:
- V \u003d K x A x ((Pmax + 1) x (Pmin +1)) / (Pmax - Pmin) x (Pair + 1), where
- A is the estimated water consumption (l / min);
- K - correction factor from the table, determined depending on the pump power.
You must set the values \u200b\u200bof the minimum (starting) and maximum (turning off) pressure on the relay yourself, depending on what pressure you need in the system. It is determined by the farthest from the accumulator, and the high point of the draw-off point.
Council. The difference between the maximum and minimum values \u200b\u200bshould be 1-1.5 atm. And the initial pressure Pair should be 10-20% less than Pmin.
To adjust the pressure switch, you need to know how to pump up a hydraulic accumulator for water supply systems with air, or bleed off the excess. This requires a car pump that connects to the tank through a spool.
The volume can now be calculated. Let's take for example:
- A \u003d 75 l / min;
- Pump power 1.5 kW, respectively K \u003d 0.25;
- Pmax \u003d 4.0 bar;
- Pmin \u003d 2.5 bar;
- Air \u003d 2.3 bar.
We get V \u003d 66.3 liters. The closest standard accumulators in terms of volume have a volume of 60 and 80 liters. We choose the one that is larger.
Shape, dimensions
Perhaps the shape of the tank - vertical or horizontal - may matter to you. For example, if the place for its installation is limited in area or height.
In addition, when using a large-volume tank, make sure in advance that it will easily fit into the doorway in terms of its dimensions, or choose another model. It is not difficult to do this, since the choice of accumulators from different manufacturers in our market is quite large.
Conclusion
Now you have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to choose a hydraulic accumulator for water supply systems. The video in this article will also help you make the necessary calculations and decide. If you do not want to delve deeply into this issue, or you do not rely on your own knowledge, contact a water supply specialist.
If you live in a private household, you cannot do without running water. Just laying the pipes is not enough: to stabilize the operation of the water supply system, it is necessary to install a hydraulic accumulator (aka hydraulic tank). To correctly choose a hydraulic accumulator for water supply systems, you need to consider:
- volume of the hydraulic tank reservoir;
- type of construction;
- pump performance;
- cost of the model.
Keep in mind that not always a low cost is an indicator of poor quality.
Selection of the volume of the accumulator
There is a simple, without complex calculation formulas, way to calculate the volume of a hydraulic accumulator for water supply of a private house by the number of water points, taking into account the pump performance:
- up to 3 points, the pump operates with a capacity of 2 m3 / hour - a hydraulic tank with a capacity of up to 24 liters is enough - this is an option for small country houses with accommodation for 1-2 people;
- up to 8, pump - 3.5 m3 / hour - 50 (such a device will satisfy the needs of 2-3 people permanently living in the house);
- more than 10, pump - 5 m3 / hour - 100 (up to 8 residents - that is, a metric tank is quite enough for a large family, if the number of residents is more - a tank of 100 liters or more is purchased).
It should be borne in mind that the main task of the accumulator is not the accumulation of drinking water, there is no need to overpay for an oversized device (unused water will stagnate and lose its drinking quality). Sufficient supply in case of unforeseen cost overruns - 10-15% of the total capacity. Calculate the approximate consumption from all draw-off points and multiply by 2 (the liquid takes up about half the volume of the product). If you consume 40 liters per day and want water to be available, you need a hydroaccumulator with a capacity of not 80, but 100.
Popular models and approximate prices
Let a small overview of prices on models of well-known companies help you choose a hydraulic accumulator for water supply to a private house. The following brands are popular on the hydraulic tank market:
- Aquabright produced by the Russian company Jemix (80 l hydraulic tank - about 3500 rubles, 100 - 4400 rubles);
- Jeelex ("DZHILEKS") is also a domestic brand (an 80-liter tank will cost 4400 rubles, a 100-liter - at 5700, information from the official website of the manufacturer; manufacturer).
- UNIPUMP is a Russian manufacturer cooperating with the Italian supplier Italtecnica. The cost of a hydroaccumulator 80 l - from 4438 to 5260 rubles, 100 - from 5690 to 7442.
- Reflex is a German brand, an 80-liter tank costs from 8 thousand rubles, a 100-liter - from 10 thousand rubles.
- Belamos is a Russian company of pumping equipment, 80 liters - 4385 rubles, 100 - 5030.
- Wester is a brand belonging to the Impulse group of companies, which has links with suppliers from Europe and the USA. An 80-liter hydraulic tank can be purchased at a price of 3910 rubles, a 100-liter - from 7108.
- Zilmet is an Italian company, apparently the most expensive brand - the cost of a 60-liter hydraulic tank with a replaceable membrane is 27,420 rubles, 100 - 43,965.
Do not buy suspiciously cheap batteries from unknown manufacturers - they will not last long. Pay attention to the manufacturer's official website: a serious company has it in the national or international registration zone - look at the first-level domain name (com, ru, it, etc.). The brand must be "transparent" - there is information about the manufacturing plant, address, photo and video materials of the production. If there is no normal site, there is no such brand either, the products are manufactured at a third-party enterprise and the customer's markers are "molded" onto it.
Hydraulic tank type
When deciding how to choose a hydraulic accumulator for the water supply systems of your home, keep in mind that for the convenience of placement and installation in private houses, manufacturers have developed two types of hydraulic tanks: horizontal and vertical. Keep in mind that it is important not only to install it indoors, but also to maintain the device in the future: there must be free access to it.
There is no critical difference between horizontal and vertical models. As a rule, at the top or side of the device there is a valve or a valve for pumping and bleeding air, at the bottom there is a fitting for connecting to the water supply system. From a hydraulic tank less than 50 liters, you will have to completely drain the water in order to bleed off excess air.
According to the arrangement of the internal reservoir, hydraulic accumulators are produced:
- with a fixed membrane;
- with a rubber cylinder (aka pear);
- with removable membrane.
Products with a built-in membrane are cheaper and quite reliable, but keep in mind: if the rubber of the inner tank is damaged, you will have to change the device. In tanks with a pear and a replaceable membrane, it is sufficient to replace the reservoir. The easiest way to replace is in devices with a cylinder: they removed the flange, took out the damaged cylinder, put a new one.
Food grade rubber, as a membrane material, differs in properties:
- natural rubber has high elasticity, but low resistance to water diffusion (swells strongly), and withstands temperatures from 0 to + 50 ° C (today it is almost never found as a material for membranes);
- artificial butyl is not so elastic, but it "lives" longer and withstands a wider temperature range: from -10 to + 100 ° C;
- artificial rubber made of ethylene-propylene has the longest service life and is very reliable, capable of withstanding from -50 to + 130 ° C (if the instructions for the hydraulic tank contain information that it is made of EPDM rubber, this is the most reliable option).
Conclusion
A reasonable choice of a hydraulic accumulator will avoid many difficulties and save your budget - it will extend the service life of the pump and mixers, and ensure the reliable operation of household appliances. Do not chase the volume and determine in advance a place for installing the hydraulic tank, suitable in terms of area and height. Please note that tanks for water systems are usually blue, for thermal ones - red. If the tank is suddenly chrome, green or another color, it is better to clarify what it is intended for.