What to make columns
Support posts can be made from different materials:
- natural stone;
- reinforced concrete blocks;
- asbestos-cement pipes;
- bricks.
They can be made monolithic by filling the prepared formwork with the reinforcement cage installed in it.
Each material has its own positive and negative qualities, the choice depends on how many years of building you expect.
Often, the choice is influenced by the presence of the builder's residues of building materials, which he can use to build a bathhouse on a columnar foundation.
Pillar brick foundation: subtleties of construction
A general rule applies to a columnar foundation made of bricks for a bath: the entire construction cycle must be completed before winter.
It is impossible to leave the supports without load until spring - the processes taking place in the soil layers can deform them to such an extent that the further use of the constructed columns becomes impossible.
Therefore, it is important not only to know how to make a columnar foundation for a bath, but also to start the process of its construction on time.
What type of brick can be used
Any brick that comes in contact with the construction of support posts is not suitable. Silicate (white), hollow, lightweight - all these types of bricks will not work on the foundation, even if you are building a very tiny bathhouse.
Only corpulent fired red brick is suitable for the construction of posts. It's tough enough to withstand stress for decades. In addition, this type of brick is characterized by low moisture permeability, which is especially important in the construction of buried columnar foundations.
Another parameter that you should pay attention to is the frost resistance of the brick. This figure indicates how many freeze / thaw cycles the brand can withstand.
The bearing capacity of a brick can be determined by its marking: M-100, for example, can withstand a load of 100 kg / sq. see For a light bath, this is quite enough.
Depth of laying
When building a columnar foundation for a bath, the depth of the brick support can be small - up to 500 mm - or exceed the freezing mark. It all depends on the geological features of the construction site. If the soils are prone to frost heaving, you will have to bury the columns deep.
For example, in the Moscow region, the freezing depth is 140 cm, and in Omka - 220 cm.In the southern part of the Russian Federation (Stavropol, Nalchik, etc.), the soils freeze by only 60 cm, so that in these regions, buried foundations differ little from shallow ones.
Diagram of the device of a shallow brick support
A conical pit is dug under each support, the dimensions of which are:
- upper part - 1000x1000 mm;
- lower part - 500x500 mm;
- depth - 550 mm + 150 mm per pillow device.
The pillow is arranged as follows: sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit with compaction. The sandy layer is covered with roofing material: with such a simple technique, the brick is protected from moisture that appears from below through the pillow.
At the corners of the bath and at the intersection of the walls, columns are installed in two bricks, between them intermediate supports of one and a half bricks are constructed with a step of 1.5-2 meters.
Brickwork can be strengthened by laying a reinforcing mesh every three to four rows. Upon completion of the erection of the supports, the soil is backfilled with mandatory layer-by-layer compaction.
To protect the column from surface water, a blind area is arranged around it.
A brick post is brought out 150-200 mm above the ground surface and coated with hot bitumen. In addition, the upper end of each support is covered with roofing felt.
Brick post on expanded clay cement pillow
It is possible to arrange a powerful reinforced pillow from a mixture of expanded clay and cement mortar under a brick post.
In this case, only the ground part of the support is laid out of brick:
- a pit is dug with dimensions in terms of 600 x 600 mm and a depth of 800 to 900 mm. On clay soils, you can limit yourself to a depth of 500 to 700 mm;
- if the soil on the site is not sandy, sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit to a height of 200 mm;
- reinforcing bars are driven into the sand layer: their upper ends should not protrude above the earth's surface;
- the entire remaining space of the pit is covered with a mixture of expanded clay and a slurry consisting of two parts of sand and one part of M-400 cement. On soft soils, formwork from boards is pre-installed in the pit;
- as soon as the pillows harden, you can start laying the brick part of the supports.
What to do with the floor
In a bathhouse on a columnar foundation, the floor will be cold if you do not take some steps to protect it. For this, after the construction of the foundation, a pseudo-base is arranged.
It can be built from any materials at hand - wood, bricks, blocks or slate. The main task of this structural element is to block the access of cold air and moisture to the space between the floor and the ground.
The simplest and most reliable way to protect the floor is to build a plinth from slate sheets:
- a trench with a depth of no more than 300 mm is dug between adjacent posts;
- the bottom of the trench is covered with rubble: layer thickness - 150 mm;
- the trench prepared in this way is poured with concrete;
- slate is buried in the uncured concrete mixture.
The top edge of the slate should be flush with the top of the post. At the top, the pseudo-base is tied with a steel corner. The space under the floor is covered with expanded clay.
There is a question of water drainage from the washing room. Many owners, when arranging a floor in a bathhouse on a columnar foundation, install a galvanized pallet under the finished floor. The water that accumulates in it is discharged outside through the pipe.
But if you are going to build a solid brick bath, then you will have to tie the pillars with a powerful grillage. In this case, it is better to abandon the pillars and erect the building on the usual strip foundation.
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Stages of construction of a strip foundation for a summer residence
Place of construction of the strip foundation: a summer cottage in a garden society.
Foundation dimensions: 6 × 6 m. Including: dressing room (rest room) - 3 × 6 m., Sink - 3 × 4 m., Steam room - 2 × 3 m.
Features of the building site: the former owners of the site began to build a strip foundation on three sides around the perimeter of the bath, the size of one side is 6m, two sides are 4m each, the width of the foundation is 300 mm, the height is 300 mm. Another important feature of this site is that at the time of construction work, there was no possibility of connecting to power grids.
Objective: to complete the remaining strip foundation (perimeter and under the internal partitions).
1. Preparation of the construction site. The building site must be free of debris and any foreign objects, the vegetation layer of the soil must be removed, the site must be leveled.
2. Layout of the site according to the planned plan. In order to take out the axes, a geodetic instrument was used - theodolite. Wooden pegs were installed along the perimeter of the future strip foundation and a cord was pulled. In the absence of a theodolite, we recall the Pythagorean theorem that in a right-angled triangle the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse, we take a tape measure and a cord, make a breakdown.
3. Creation of a trench. In order to build a strip foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench, the depth of which can be individual, depending on the characteristics of the soil in the area. In our case, backfilling was previously made on the site, so a layer of fertile soil was removed to a dense layer of sand, and the depth of the trench was 250 mm. When erecting a strip foundation, a layer of sand and a layer of gravel are poured into the trench, each of the layers can reach a thickness of 100 mm. But, since we did not need to pour a layer of sand, only crushed stone was filled.
4.
triple formwork. For the formwork, a board of 50 × 150 mm and reinforcement with a length of 700 mm and a section of 14 mm were used. The reinforcement is driven vertically into the ground every 2-3 meters along the perimeter of the dug trench, then boards are installed along the edges. From above we nail a picket fence (block) 25 × 40 mm in size and 400-450 mm long. The distance between the bars is 1-1.5 m. After installing the formwork, we level it with a geodetic device - a leveling on a picket fence, set "beacons" in the corners, using nails for this.
5. Laying of reinforcement. It is necessary to lay reinforcement with a cross section of 12-14 mm in the trench, 2 pieces on each side. The length of the reinforcement is calculated as follows: on each side there should be 0.04 m, if the length of the wall is, for example, 6 m, then the length of the reinforcement is 5.92 m. You need to cut the reinforcement with an angle grinder (grinder), therefore, in the absence of electricity, this must be taken care of in advance. Since we had a part of the strip foundation poured, along the edges of which reinforcing outlets were left, an overlap was made to the reinforcement with steel knitting wire. We put broken brick under the reinforcement, the amount can be any, the main thing is that the reinforcement does not sag. You can, of course, perform longitudinal and transverse reinforcement, but this is usually performed when erecting foundations for heavier structures. For a light one-story timber bath, there is no need to carry out this kind of reinforcement, there will simply be an extra metal consumption.
6. Preparation of concrete mortar and its laying. The concrete mix can be prepared mechanically using a concrete mixer, or manually by mixing the composition in an iron container suitable for this purpose. In our case, the manual method was used, using a "solution jar" with a capacity of 0.13 cubic meters.
The composition of the concrete solution may vary. It depends on several factors: on the grade of cement and the desired grade of concrete, on the additives used and their characteristics, on the requirements for the fluidity of the solution, etc.
The commonly used ratio of crushed stone, sand and cement is 5: 3: 1, the water-cement ratio (W / C) is 0.5. It should be borne in mind that the composition of concrete is calculated for dry materials. The same sand in its normal state has a moisture content of 5%, and if it gets wet with rain, then - about 10%.
The composition of the concrete mixture per 1 cu. m.
- medium crushed stone (fraction 20-40 mm) - 1900 kg.
clean sand (moisture content 5%) - 1140 kg. - portland cement PC 500 - 380 kg.
- water (from a well or tap water) ~ 172 l.
The required amount of concrete mix is \u200b\u200beasy to calculate based on the size of the future strip foundation. In our case: height - 0.3 m, width - 0.3 m, length - 19 m (6 + 2 + 2 + 6 + 3). Therefore, we need V \u003d 0.3 × 0.3 × 19 \u003d 1.71 cubic meters.
In our case, construction work was carried out when the air temperature at night dropped to minus 5 ° C, therefore, an additional anti-freeze plasticizing additive Benotech PMP-1, which is sold in liquid form, was used. At temperatures from 0 to −5 ° C, it is necessary to add 1% of an additive based on the mass of cement to the concrete mixture. The amount is calculated based on the mass of dry matter, which contains approximately 453.4 g in one liter of the additive. 380 kg. Portland cement needs 8.38 liters. additives.
You can use another additive that accelerates the hardening of the concrete mixture and has anti-freeze properties.
If it is possible to connect to the power grid, the concrete structure can be heated using a heating formwork, which uses heating cables, heating elements, mesh heaters and other heating elements. In addition, the concrete mix can be heated up to 40-60 ° C prior to laying.
Technology for preparing concrete mix for strip foundations
The required amount of sand is poured into the container, a depression is made in it and cement is poured, everything is thoroughly mixed with a shovel. Crushed stone is added to this mixture and mixed well again. Then water is gradually added, preferably from a watering can, so as not to wash out the sand particles with a strong jet.
On the garden plot, there may not be containers at hand for accurately counting the required amount of material, therefore buckets are often used for these purposes.
Amount of material in one bucket (10 l):
- crushed stone - 15-17 kg
- sand - 14-17 kg
- cement - 13-15 kg
The amount of crushed stone depends on its fraction, the amount of sand depends on moisture, and the amount of cement is affected by the density of its compaction during backfilling.
Laying concrete mortar
- The ready-made mortar is poured into the formwork, leveled, pierced with a probe or bayonet shovel (to remove excess air), knocked from the outer part of the formwork with a wooden hammer.
- If it is possible to connect to the mains, then a deep vibrator can be used to compact the concrete mixture.
- At negative temperatures, the strip foundation is covered from above with a film and a layer of sawdust or any insulation.
- After three days, the formwork can be carefully removed.
7. The device of the base. Having convinced of the sufficient strength of the concrete strip foundation, you can proceed to the next stage - the installation of the basement.
For this we need the following materials
- roofing material - 1 roll 15 × 1 m;
- pipe (metal or plastic, section 32-57 mm), total length - 1500 mm;
- masonry mesh 500 × 1500 mm - 24 pieces;
- mortar for masonry (cement-sand, 1: 4);
- solid ceramic brick - 808 pcs.
Strip foundation - the order of work
1. A layer of roofing material (or other waterproofing material) is laid on the concrete foundation. Roofing material is easily cut with a knife into strips of the required width.
2. A single-row (chain) ligation method was used for brickwork. A layer of mortar for masonry is laid on top of the waterproofing material, then, across the longitudinal axis of the foundation, a brick is laid to form a butt row of masonry. Lay a masonry mesh on top of the first row of bricks. The second row of masonry is spoon (along the axis).
3. The number of rows of masonry will depend on the desired height of the strip foundation for the bath. In our case, 4 rows of masonry were performed (see information on how to maintain brickwork).
4. The required number of bricks is calculated as follows: the standard size of one brick is 250 × 120 × 65 mm, the length of the base is 35 m, two rows of masonry with a butt side of 120 mm, two rows of 250 mm, seams - 10 mm. We make a simple calculation: 3500 × 2: 13 + 3500 × 2: 26 \u003d 807.69. Therefore, we need approximately 808 bricks.
5. In the third row of masonry (butt) it is necessary to make ventilation ducts. To do this, we use scraps of a metal or plastic pipe, which is mounted across the axis of the foundation in a horizontal position. The diameter of the pipe does not really matter, we used the one that was available. 5 air vents were made for the entire foundation
6. On top of the third row of bricks, a row of masonry mesh is again laid, then the last row of bricks (spoon).
7. The final stage - the device of a cement screed from a thick mortar 1: 2-3. The recommended height of the cement screed is 20 mm.
8. We are waiting for the complete drying of the solution.
That's all, our strip foundation has been successfully completed, and you can proceed to the next stage of building a bath.
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General rules for choosing material
- For walls, ordinary red brick, hollow, silicate is suitable (facing is not suitable).
- For the foundation - ordinary red, as well as batches with defects in appearance, for example, iron ore (hollow and facing are not suitable).
- For the furnace - red and fireproof (silicate is not suitable because of its low fire resistance).
Bath bricks are purchased in bulk and delivered in one batch by car. Protect it from water during storage. The general rules here are about the same as for sawn timber.
The brought bricks are piled on a wooden pallet and covered with foil. It is also convenient to place stacks under a canopy. Bricklaying, especially if done by one person, takes several weeks. All this time, the brick must be stored in a dry place.
Pros and cons
A brick bath is a permanent permanent construction. The cost of its construction will be more expensive than a classic wooden bath, but it will last many times more.
Of the minuses of a brick bath, one can note the need for its careful insulation. Safe, environmentally friendly materials are not always used for this. The main advantage of the brick structure is its fireproofing and durability.
Plinth and foundation
The foundation for a brick bath with your own hands is laid out in the form of a tape structure. A brick bath is heavy, so a pile or columnar foundation is rarely used for it, but on dense rocky soils it is quite acceptable. The strip foundation remains the most reliable and common option.
The foundation for a brick bath is built from well-fired dense varieties.
The brick can be with external defects, spots, uneven color.
Good toughness and water resistance are key; porous and hollow grades should not be considered immediately.
Ceramics have the ability to absorb water. If the brick is weighed and put in a bucket of water for a day, then the next day it will be much heavier. Even 1 brick is able to collect several tens of grams of water.
The penetration of water into the ceramic itself does not harm it. An example is the numerous archaeological finds from ceramics. It's another matter if the process of soaking with water is accompanied by freezing cycles.
That is why brick foundations do not last forever, but they are still very durable. Some brick manufacturers quote the number of freeze cycles without significant reduction in strength. Their number is at least 100, which provides the brick foundation and basement with almost the same number of years of service. For a bath, this is more than enough.
Base masonry
The plinth is made somewhat thicker than the wall, but it is not necessary to adhere to this rule. The increase in thickness is done by half a brick. Greater value is impractical. Also, the basement should not be made thicker than the foundation in the bath. This will negatively affect the stability of the entire structure.
The foundation for a brick bath is laid out in the same way as the walls. A sand cushion protects the foundation from soil antinodes. The lower reinforced layer protects from failures. In the foundation, it is very beneficial to combine brick with concrete. A concrete belt will significantly add strength, which is necessarily reinforced with longitudinal reinforcement of great length.
General rules for brick construction
- The minimum wall thickness for a bath is one brick.
- Each row is laid strictly according to the level, observing the thickness of the seams;
- A brick of the same batch and one color is used for the wall (an exception is a predetermined decorative arrangement of multi-colored bricks).
- On a brick building, seismic belts made of reinforcement are required;
- Masonry mortar - not lower than M250-M350.
The plinth is laid on a concrete foundation slab. Rubble, concrete and brick foundations are suitable for a brick basement. A variant of any material can be either tape or columnar. In any case, you need to build a foundation, taking into account the weight of the bath and the characteristics of the soil.
Laying a columnar foundation
It is very convenient to lay out posts from bricks. Such structures can very often be seen as posts for gates and fences. In a columnar foundation, they are laid out according to the same principle.
The cross section of the pillars is 1.5-2 bricks. The columns can also be made into one brick, but you need to increase their location.
Any columnar foundation requires a powerful reinforced concrete grillage. Without it, it will be a very fragile structure.
A columnar foundation for a brick bath is only suitable for dense dry soils. If it does not apply to homes in your area, consult with construction specialists about the feasibility of building it.
Vapor barrier and waterproofing
Ceramics and bricks have the undesirable property of absorbing water well. This disadvantage is eliminated by careful hydro and vapor barrier. The brick in the walls, plinth and foundation must be protected from moisture penetration from any source:
- moisture seepage from the soil: roofing layers are laid on the foundation;
- penetration of water from the bath: the floor screed in the washing room is insulated;
- indirect accumulation of moisture from condensate from a large temperature difference (vapor barrier membranes are installed here).
How to cover a brick in a bath, and why is it needed
Outside, it is better not to cover the brick with anything. This will provide a beautiful appearance. The situation inside the bath is just the opposite. Bare brick is almost never used there. Warming is described in detail in other articles on our site.
The brick is covered from the inside for waterproofing. The most reasonable thing here is to use vapor barrier membranes specially designed for this.
In some cases, the bricks in the bath are left open. If high quality brick is chosen for the walls, then it will look very decorative, not only outside, but also inside.
At the same time, it is impossible to leave brick walls unlined inside the bath because of the requirements for thermal insulation. In extreme cases, according to design requirements, such walls can be left in the dressing room. Basically, if a brick is visible in the bath, it is either on the stove or on the partitions.
Both ordinary sauna heaters and complex heating ones are laid out of bricks. The dimensions of the heating panels can be up to half a wall. Also, brick is laid out to protect the wall from heating by the stove. All these elements are usually not plastered. Inside, they can be coated with various interior varnishes, but this is far from always advisable.
The coating of bricks with varnish is carried out in order to protect the ceramic surface that is not resistant to dirt. In the interior, especially if you grab the wall with your hands, the brick will get dirty very quickly. You can correct this situation by applying a varnish coating.
Wooden paneling, installation of beacons
A brick bath must be sheathed with wood from the inside. This layer has an insulating and aesthetic function. The best way to decorate a brick bath is cladding with wooden boards, clapboard, block house or imitation of a bar.
If the sheathing is thin, for example lining, then only moisture-resistant species are suitable, for example: aspen, linden and larch. Pine lining is not suitable for a steam room. Insulation is placed between the wood layer and the brick.
Regardless of the type of lumber used for cladding, beacons are placed vertically. They act as a connecting knot between the brick and the wooden sheathing board. A lighthouse is a wooden block that is attached to a brick wall, and sheathing boards are nailed to its outside.
The lighthouse is fastened to the brick using dowels and corners. In combination with the dowel, you can use various specialized fasteners. It is convenient to purchase it as a kit. Calculate by the number of beacons. On average, they are located every 0.5 m of the walls.
The section of the lighthouse bar is usually chosen equal to the thickness of the insulation layer.
The outer edge should be no more than 3 cm. Then it will be convenient to attach the skin to it.
In addition to its direct function, the lighthouse serves as a guide for attaching boards. It must be installed strictly on a plumb line. This ensures a neat appearance of the cladding.
Steam room corner
A massive cladding is laid out of bricks, occupying the entire corner of the twin compartment. It protects the wood trim on the walls (and in the wooden bath and the entire structure) from fire. Thus, a good protective and decorative element is obtained. It is conveniently located near the oven.
The brick corner is laid out in two layers, and in some cases in one. Two coats are preferable as they provide a good overlap. For a completely brick bath, bricks are purchased enough, so it is better to lay out the corner in two layers. The work is carried out before the steam room cladding. The thickness of the joints is minimal with good decorative jointing.
Wall cladding process - what to look for?
Brick baths are finished only inside. It is better not to finish the brick outside with anything. It already looks very good and is very resistant to all climatic influences. The exceptions are baths built of low-grade bricks with external defects and baths made of white silicate bricks. White isn't always appropriate, but it can also be used correctly in design. 
The interior decoration of a brick bath has two main tasks: improving the appearance and warming.
Brick, even if you used the warmest hollow version, is very thermally conductive.
In comparison with traditional wood for baths, it loses to it more than twice. The interior decoration of a brick bath is almost always made of wood. This is the best option.
For a washing and steam room, there are no other options. The rest room can be finished with other materials besides wood. It is only necessary to ensure that all this decoration has an appropriate "bath" look.
Portal around the furnace
In modern baths, standard stoves made of metal have become widespread. They can be overlaid with bricks. This is done for safety and design reasons, as the brick is very beautiful in the interior.
The portal in a brick bath is laid out from selected varieties. Without proper experience, it is better to entrust its laying to professionals. If the portal does not have a volumetric vault that requires specialized conical bricks for laying, then it is quite possible to lay it out yourself.
Brick cutting around the firebox in the bath will serve as an additional fire protection and decorative element. In addition, the brick lining of the metal furnace contributes to a longer heat retention.
The gantry around the stove is laid by hand according to the classical scheme. For laying each row, the cord is pulled strictly according to the level. Laying is carried out on cement mortar. Clay mortar is used only for laying bricks around the firebox and nowhere else. The use of cement mortar provides the masonry with strength and water resistance.
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Advantages and disadvantages
Of course, there are no ideal building materials. Therefore, brick, like any other material, has its own advantages. Let's consider them below.
- Durability. With proper installation and operation, such a building can be used for more than 100 years!
- Environmental friendliness. When heated, bricks do not emit any chemicals.
- Fire safety. The probability of ignition of a brick bath is practically zero.
- Design. Since the brick structure is very stable, it is possible to build a structure of various shapes and sizes, create an unusual, interesting layout, and so on. In addition, the brick itself, if the external walls are erected from a decorative look, looks quite attractive and solid.
- Brick does not rot and does not lend itself to damage by fungi and other microorganisms.
- The shrinkage period of a brick bath is much less than that of a bath from a wooden frame or timber.
There are also a number of disadvantages.
- High material cost. A very contradictory opinion of the majority of inexperienced craftsmen. In fact, the difference in price when building a bath of the same size and the same projects is minimal.
- High heat capacity. It will take several times longer to heat a brick bath than to heat a similar wooden bath.
- High thermal conductivity. Brick conducts heat and cold well, but this problem is solved by high-quality vapor barrier.
- Hygroscopicity. Brick walls are capable of absorbing moisture, which will inevitably lead to deformation and destruction of the walls. The problem can be solved by installing a layer of waterproofing.
- Due to its low vapor conductivity, bricks tend to change color and collapse. Good vapor barrier and ventilation will save you from this.
Choosing a place and brick for a bath
For the construction of a bath, the best option is the use of white silicate or slightly less expensive red clay bricks. Since this material is manufactured at high temperatures, it becomes a solid, strong and reliable raw material. It is because of its technical characteristics that such a brick is also used in the construction of a stove-heater.
In addition to these two types, for the construction of the walls of the bath, ceramic corrugated corrugated brick of the M100 or M125 brand, solid smooth brick M100 or M175 are used. The dimensions of each are the same - 25x12x6.5 cm. The retail price varies from 10 to 15 rubles.
In addition to the main building material, you will need:
- Waterproofing material (roll, bulk).
- Vapor barrier material.
- Metal fasteners (bolts, nails, screws, and so on).
- Lumber for interior cladding and lathing installation.
- Roofing material.
- Beams for the truss system.
- Foundation fittings.
- Sand.
- Crushed stone or broken brick and other materials.
The most basic rule when choosing a site for construction is humidity. A brick bath should be built on a dry area. If there is a body of water nearby, then the distance from it should exceed 30 meters.
If you plan to use firewood as fuel, the distance from neighboring buildings should be from 15 m, and if gas or electricity, then the distance can be safely reduced to 5-6 m. Also, to save money, you can attach a bathhouse to the main house, thereby making it easier wiring all communications.
Of the tools you will need:
- Trowel.
- Shovel.
- Concrete mixer.
- Plumb line.
- Building level.
- Plywood for formwork.
- Square.
- Roulette.
- Pickaxe hammer.
- Wedges.
- Joining.
- Mooring cord and other tools.
Design
First you need to draw up a project, a drawing of the future building. It is necessary to indicate all the features of the structure: from the appearance, the number of rooms and overall dimensions to the wiring diagram of all communications, the calculation of the required amount of materials and the weight distribution of the structure.
The simplest sauna projects consist of one room, which is a steam room, a washing room, and a dressing room. But this option is not always convenient, especially when several people use the bath. Therefore, most projects have in stock:
- Steam room. Equipped as a dry steam sauna or as a traditional Russian bath. During construction, taking into account safety rules, it is important to install the steam room door so that it opens outward.
Important! Experts do not recommend building a steam room with high ceilings, the height from floor to ceiling should not exceed 2.5 m, as the construction will have to spend additional financial resources, time and effort, and it will take much longer to warm up such a room to the desired temperature.
- Rest room. You can sit, chat and even have a snack in it.
- Locker room or dressing room. If the bath area is limited, then here, in addition to wardrobes, you can install benches, armchairs or chairs, a table and even a sofa. Also, fuel and bath accessories are usually stored in this room.
- Washing room (represented by a shower or a swimming pool).
- Veranda.
For example, if the bathhouse is being built as an extension to the main residential building, the washing room does not need to be equipped, since the bathroom at home will play its role.
If you want to save money, on the Internet you can find ready-made projects of brick baths and detailed instructions for them.
Foundation
Having in hand a ready-made project of the future bath, you can proceed to the first stage of construction - the construction of the foundation. The base for a brick bath can be different. The choice of type depends on a large number of factors, among them: soil composition, climate, region, level of soil freezing and depth of groundwater, and so on.
If you plan to equip the pool in a washing room, then a separate foundation is needed for it, as, in fact, for the heater.
Since the brick structure is quite heavy, the foundation must be strong enough to support the weight of the bath for many decades. The most common is the strip foundation. It can be both shallow and buried, consist of concrete blocks, bricks or cement mortar. Let us briefly consider the last option, since the technology of its construction is no different from the construction technology for any other building:
- The first step is to clear the area from small debris, twigs, bushes, and so on.
- Then markup is carried out according to the project. Wooden pegs are installed in the corners and along the walls, a thread is stretched between them.
- They dig a trench 0.3–0.8 m deep and 25–40 cm wide, depending on the thickness of the walls and their construction. Please note that such a foundation should be located at least one meter above the groundwater level.
- A layer (10–20 cm) of sand is poured onto the bottom, moistened with water and tamped tightly.
- The same layer of crushed stone or broken stone is laid on top of the sand, moistened, carefully tamped.
- A layer (sometimes several layers) of waterproofing material, for example, roofing material or geotextile, is placed on the resulting pillow.
- Install the formwork. It should rise 30-60 cm above ground level.
- A reinforced skeleton of metal rods with a diameter of 1.2–1.6 cm is mounted inside. The rows are tied together with a rigid wire.
- In order for the base to come out even, without defects, there should not be any chips or cracks on the plywood or OSB sheets (if wooden formwork is being mounted). It is also worth pre-wetting the inner walls of the formwork or wrapping it in a layer of polyethylene.
- A cement-concrete mortar is poured inside the structure. You can buy it or prepare it yourself using finely sifted river or quarry sand, fine crushed stone, cement powder and water.
- The formwork is removed after 5-14 days, depending on the average daily temperature. The first few days, in order to prevent deformation, the base is watered 3-4 times a day. To protect the foundation from precipitation, a blind area is poured from oily clay and rubble at a slight angle, 1 m wide, as shown in the diagram below.
- The cement hardens completely and gains strength only after 28 days.
Important! Do not forget to leave ventilation holes 8–12 cm in diameter in the foundation strip and build a separate foundation for the stove if you plan to use a heater.
At this stage, it is necessary to provide for the wiring of the water supply and sewerage systems, electricity and gas can be installed without problems later.
Types and sequence of wall masonry
The erection of brick walls should be started after the foundation is waterproofed. For this, roll materials such as roofing material, technoelast, glass insulation or various bitumen and bitumen-polymer mastics are used. Most often, the walls are erected according to the single-row dressing system, since it is simple, and it can be installed alone without much difficulty. This design is a change in spoon and butt rows of bricks. It is used when it is not planned to use the facing layer of facing bricks.
For those who are not familiar with the technology of wall masonry: the spoon row is a row of bricks that are laid with their side side along the wall, and the butt row is laid with short ends to the outer side of the wall.
There are three main types of brickwork:
- Solid masonry, when the brick is laid in two rows with no gap between the rows.
- Masonry with a ventilation gap of 40–60 mm.
- Lightweight masonry. It consists of two walls, between which insulation is poured, whether it is expanded clay, fine slag or other analogs.
Most often, it is the third type of structure that is used, since it allows you to reduce the pressure on the foundation and save on building materials, since brick is quite expensive nowadays.
Solid masonry is no less popular, as it is more durable and reliable.
Regardless of the type of masonry chosen, they all start from the corners. First you need to lay out six rows of bricks on the mortar in the corners. A cord must be drawn along each row. They are wrapped around nails, which are inserted into the seams between the bricks at a distance of 3-4 mm from the vertical of the row. The cord helps determine the evenness of the masonry For this purpose, a building level and a plumb line are also used.
The basement of the bath, if necessary, should be laid out of solid bricks, and the walls themselves - of hollow bricks.
When laying, it is important to work quickly so that the cement mortar does not have time to set. If construction work is carried out in the summer, the brick is pre-moistened with water. The thickness of the layer of such a solution should be 2–3 cm.
There are several variations of solid masonry, among them:
- "One-row"
- "Multi-row"
They differ in that with a single row there is a constant change of the butt and spoon rows, and with a multi-row masonry system, the butt rows go through 5-6 spoon rows.
When laying bonded rows, it is necessary to apply the mortar with an indent of 10 mm when filling the joints and by 30–35 mm when laying a washer. If you have bricks with any defects lying around, do not rush to throw them away, it is better to use spoon rows for laying, in addition to corners and support zones.
Internal load-bearing walls must be at least 20 cm thick. Transverse walls usually consist of halves or quarters of bricks. If the length of such a wall exceeds 1.5 m, then they must be additionally strengthened with a reinforcement belt every three rows.
Door and window frames are mounted directly during the masonry process. In the side parts of the openings, wooden blocks with a thickness of brick are installed. They are wrapped with a layer of roofing material and washed.
It is immediately necessary to equip the ventilation holes. Usually in such baths a ventilation system of the supply and exhaust type is installed. It consists of two openings: one regulates the air flow, the second - the exhaust opening. The first is best placed under the bottom of the stove, and the second - as far from the stove as possible, 7–8 centimeters below the ceiling level. You can also provide special dampers that will help regulate the air flow in the steam room.
Calculating the number of bricks
Due to incorrect calculations, beginners often acquire one and a half times more material than they really need. To understand how much brick you need to buy, the area of \u200b\u200ball walls is calculated separately, excluding the area of \u200b\u200bdoor and window openings. The number that comes out is multiplied by the thickness of the walls. When calculating, be sure to take into account the thickness of the bricks themselves and the mortar joints between them.
To facilitate this process, you can use open source tables or special online services. If you decide to create an individual bath project, then it is better to contact the specialists - they will help you carry out all the necessary calculations.
Roof and floor for a brick bath
The roof structure can be any: one, two or more slopes. The more complex the roof structure and the greater the angle of inclination, the more expensive the installation of the roof will be. The sequence of work also depends on the choice of design.
Holes are drilled in the upper rows of the walls for special fastening pins. Mauerlat and ceiling joists are mounted on top of them. In the case when the ends of the beams are in contact with brick walls, they are wrapped with roofing material. After installing the beams, flooring is made from unedged boards. It is also necessary to provide an opening for the chimney.
In order for the ceiling logs to last longer, they must be additionally covered with a layer of waterproofing. For this purpose, you can use tissue absinthe, which is attached with construction brackets. A layer of a mixture of clay and sawdust in equal proportions is poured on top. As soon as the mixture dries, sprinkle with sand. The place where the chimney is in contact with the ceiling must be additionally insulated and metal sheets installed there.
After that, the rafter system is assembled. The rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat using metal corners and self-tapping screws. Additional supports are installed between the slopes (struts, stays, puffs, and so on) if the roof has two or more slopes. A crate of small slats is mounted on top of the beams, covered with waterproofing and roofing material, whether it is corrugated board, metal tile or other modern analogues, if necessary, a counter-lattice is made.
At this stage, the floor logs are mounted (using beams with a section of 15x10, 25x10) directly to the bottom of the brick walls using the same metal corners. Cranial bars are nailed to each lag on both sides, which will become a support for the subfloor. On top of the bars, an unedged board is attached, followed by a layer of waterproofing, insulation and another layer of waterproofing. The finished floor is being mounted.
Home stretch
The last stage in the construction of a brick bath with your own hands is the insulation and waterproofing of the walls from the inside and, if necessary, facing the facade, installation of shelves, stoves, furniture, connecting water supply and sewerage, installing a shower stall, doors and windows, if these have not been installed earlier, wiring electricity, decoration and other minor work.
You can build a brick bathhouse with your own hands using the information provided in this article. If you carried out all the construction work correctly, adhered to all the norms, tips and recommendations, then such a steam room will serve you for many years.
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The positive aspects of this framework
The pile-screw foundation for a brick bath has a number of advantages. This type of foundation is well-deservedly popular in suburban residential construction. Screw piles are not afraid of temperature changes and can be applied on almost any soil.
The main positive features of pile foundations are:
After screwing in the screw piles, you do not need to wait, you can immediately proceed with the arrangement of the grillage and the construction of a bath.
What are screw piles
A screw pile is a type of support made of metal; during installation, it is immersed in the ground by the screwing method, without preliminary drilling a well. This product consists of several parts: screw-in blades, main barrel and head. Visually, it resembles a large screw. This design allows the pile to be easily screwed into the soil, additionally compacting it and thus increasing its bearing capacity.
Factory screw piles are produced with a special protective coating, which includes bitumen, enamel, epoxy resin. A similar composition has an anti-corrosion coating for underwater parts of sea vessels.
According to the calculated data and statistical information, when the pile is deepened to a level of 1.8 to 2 meters, its bearing capacity will be maximum.
Arrangement of the pile-screw base
The screw foundation for a bath is mounted on almost any irregularities, on flooded parts of the site and even on well-groomed lawns, without causing destruction and harm. If screw piles were chosen as the basis for the construction of a bathhouse on an inhabited area, there is no need to destroy the relief or landscape.
The initial stage of any construction is preparatory work. They play an important role and will help to avoid alterations and additional costs in the future.
Having determined the place for the construction of the bath, it is necessary to clear it of household or construction waste, as well as remove any foreign objects or objects. If there are pits or trenches at the construction site, you need to fill them up and tamp them carefully.
Layout of pile locations
During the development of a foundation project with screw piles, the number of piles is preliminarily calculated, based on the size, distances between the piles, as well as the type of mutual arrangement. Knowing all these indicators, the pile field is marked according to the developed project.
Screw piles for the base of the bath must be immersed in dense layers of soil. To accurately determine the depth of immersion, where the soil layer has the maximum bearing capacity, it is necessary to perform a geodetic survey. Corrections for the total weight of the building, weather conditions of the area and seasonal fluctuations of the soil will not be superfluous in the calculations. For this it is better to hire a specialist.
Pile supports must be evenly distributed under all the outer and inner walls of the bath, additionally reinforcing the corners and intersections of the walls, and submerged to the design depth. The twisted piles are cut, leveled and the head is welded on top.
The part of the pile protruding from the ground can be hidden under a decorative plinth or left open. In any case, it is necessary to treat the visible part with an anti-corrosion compound.
Erection of the foundation for the furnace
Any bath, especially a Russian one, has a stove. So that during operation the masonry is not damaged or destroyed, a foundation is needed for a brick oven.
Arrangement of the furnace base is a prerequisite for the correct construction and further functioning of this structure, since it transfers all existing loads to the soil. In preparation for the construction of the furnace foundation, you need to study the basic requirements for this type of foundation. This will allow you to build a reliable and practical design, as well as protect against common mistakes.
The foundation for the stove in the bath can be located in different ways relative to the ground level. Depending on this, two types can be distinguished:
- aboveground - recommended for arranging stoves on the attic floor;
- underground - is the basis for the construction of a stove on the first or basement floor.
Basic rules for building a base for a furnace
When arranging such a foundation, it is imperative to take into account the weight of the structure. If it is not more than 700 kg, and construction is planned on the ground floor or in the basement, it is enough to equip a simple reinforced concrete foundation in the form of a reinforced slab with buried pillars-supports. Excess of the construction weight of 700 kg is already a reason to build a foundation for a furnace on screw piles. This option is considered more reliable and can withstand additional loads.
The furnace base is designed for the furnace load only. It is not recommended to connect it to the common foundation of the bath. Leave a gap of at least 5 cm and fill it with sand or damping material.
The foundation for a brick oven will require a special approach. Even the slightest deviations or deformations are unacceptable for him. Otherwise, cracks may appear in the masonry, which can lead to improper operation of the oven or its partial destruction during operation.
All parameters necessary for calculations are the same as for conventional foundations:
- bearing capacity of the soil;
- soil water level;
- heaving of the soil.
The process of erecting a pile-screw foundation begins with marking the place. After that, it is necessary to screw the piles to the calculated depth, cut them to one level and weld the heads. Screw piles will perform the main function of transferring the load to the ground. The size of the base and the number of piles are calculated based on the weight and dimensions of the furnace.
After that, it is necessary to fill in a reinforced plate with a thickness of about 15 cm, which will unite the single piles into a solid structure. When the concrete hardens, it is necessary to waterproof the base with roofing material or bitumen.
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Base types
Based on the design features of the base, several types can be distinguished:
- plinth, made flush with the wall;
- a plinth protruding a few centimeters beyond the wall;
- plinth with a wall hanging from above.
Choose a certain type of base, depending on the subsequent wall decoration. Nevertheless, the last type of structure will best cope with the protection of the junction of the basement and the wall from precipitation.
How to build a plinth correctly
If the basement part of the foundation is made of reinforced concrete or concrete, the most effective and best solution would be pouring in one stroke. The plinth must not have any horizontal or vertical seams. This is due to the fact that the formation of various seams in the body of the foundation (including the base) can lead to:
- decrease in its bearing capacity;
- the formation of cracks and pores;
- penetration through the formed voids of cold and moisture;
- destruction of concrete during freezing and thawing processes.
This will be especially relevant for reinforced concrete, in which a reinforcing cage is included in the foundation. As a result, a violation of the integrity of the concrete protection layer, which is designed to protect the metal from corrosion, will lead to a decrease in the bearing capacity of the structure.
The best option for a bath will be a brick base. However, in this case, not every brick will work. It is best to use solid red burnt brick. Its main feature is that it perfectly repels moisture, and also serves as an excellent waterproofing. It also has such a wonderful property as absorbing heat well, and then giving it away for a long time. This property does not allow the lower crown of the log house to rot!
At the initial stage of the construction of the basement, it is necessary to provide ventilation holes. It is quite enough for a bath to have two holes on opposite sides of the foundation, measuring 150x150 mm. It is quite possible that openings for sewage and water supply will be needed in the above-ground part of the foundation - they will need to be foreseen in advance.
Waterproofing
The next most important point of technological requirements for the plinth will be vertical and / or horizontal waterproofing. It will be able to protect the building from possible penetration of ground moisture into the room and into the wall structure. Usually, for horizontal waterproofing, roll roofing material is used, which is laid under the wall on top of the basement. In this case, the surface should be leveled with a screed made of cement-sand mortar, so that the height differences are not higher than 5 mm. Subsequently, roofing material will need to be glued to hot bitumen. Liquid rubber is required to perform vertical waterproofing. It is applied by spray or by hand using a brush, spatula, brush or roller. Both horizontal and vertical insulation is produced in two layers.
Warming process
Warming is the most important process. So that the heat does not escape from the room, it is necessary to carefully protect the basement structure, including the foundation, with the help of some kind of insulation. The choice and depth of the selected insulation will depend on how deeply the soil freezes in a particular region. Also, the wall is insulated from the outside, for this, rigid polystyrene foam or special mineral wool is used with the use of fiberglass mesh and layers of waterproofing.
Alternative methods of building a basement
In some cases, craftsmen use non-standard designs for installing a basement for a bath, for example, from ordinary ordinary bricks, sand-lime bricks, slate, wall stones, and the like. It should also be noted that any wall material is undesirable to use in the form of a basement material, since it is not intended for direct contact with the ground. In this case, it is recommended to build structures together with the massif from the base.
If the foundation is made in the form of piles, then it is preferable to make the above-ground part in the form of a reinforced concrete monolithic belt. The last and first row of the base, made of red brick, should be put in a poke, and the inner ones - in a spoon. This will provide a good bond as well as provide the necessary rigidity. If there are more than 5 bricks next to it, then also on the 5th row the base should be "plugged".
If the foundation ends at an elevation that is equal to the elevation of the ground, then for the construction of the wooden walls of the bathhouse, additional brickwork can be made as a basement. It is recommended to use a silicate type brick, because it can interact quite well with a humid environment. The level should be raised by 500-600 mm from the available ground surface, however, not less than 250 mm. The thickness of such a wall will correspond to 400 mm for a large bath, as well as 250 mm for a small one-room building.
It is imperative to provide ventilation outlets. It is recommended to make a reinforcing belt of concrete and reinforcement over the masonry. Waterproofing is laid under the wall and brick, because in this case, three types of materials are used for the walls, foundation and basement.
Plinth trim
Cladding materials are used extremely durable - frost-resistant and moisture-resistant. This will additionally protect the building structure from temperature extremes, as well as the effects of moisture.
Easy steam for you!
Many owners of suburban areas are interested in the question of whether it is necessary to build a basement for a bath from bricks. To understand this, it is worthwhile to understand what such a structure is and what is its functional purpose.
The basement is the visible part of the building, adjacent to the foundation base and passing into the walls of the building, it separates the underground space. The upper border of the basement is the floor of the first floor of the building. The underground space can be a basement or technical room (warm or cold). It is not necessary to insulate the underground for the bath.
The plinth performs a protective function: the foundation base, placed directly on the ground, absorbs moisture from the ground, which destroys building structures. An additional waterproofing material is laid between the foundation and the masonry. To prevent the impact of natural precipitation on the waterproofing layer, the basement is laid out of special building material at least 20-50 mm above the foundation.
For example, if the width of the concrete base is 30 cm, then the do-it-yourself bath basement is recommended to be erected in 1.5 bricks - 38 cm.On both sides of the foundation base, a protective overhang of 4 cm will be obtained.If the foundation is 40 cm wide, then lay in 2 bricks (50 cm) are not cost-effective. It is recommended to masonry also 1.5 bricks with an offset of 2 cm.
Selection and calculation of bricks for the basement
For the construction of the basement, it is necessary to use solid clay material. According to building codes, it is forbidden to use hollow building materials: due to sudden temperature changes in winter, moisture will accumulate in the voids, which will destroy the walls. This will shorten the life of the building.
For finishing the basement of the bath, you can use brick of the M150 and higher grade, for multi-storey buildings - from M200. This part of the structure will account for the bulk of the load of the entire structure:
- the main walls of the building;
- interior partitions;
- roof structure;
- everything that will be present in the premises (furniture, equipment, household appliances, people);
- in winter, snow lying on the roof will create a significant additional load.
For the basement of the bath, it is necessary to purchase a plastic brick made of M150 and higher clay.
The calculation of the required number of bricks for the construction of the basement structure is carried out in several steps:
- Calculation of the volume of brickwork. The perimeter of the foundation must be multiplied by the width of the masonry and its height. Example: the size of the foundation is 4 m long, 3 m wide, 0.3 m thick. Perimeter \u003d 4 * 2 + 3 * 2 \u003d 14 m. Masonry width 0.25 m (length of one brick), height 4 bricks (0, 07 * 4 \u003d 0.28 m). The volume of the basement masonry \u003d 14 * 0.25 * 0.28 \u003d 0.98 cubic meters. m.
- Average consumption of building materials per 1 cu. m is equal to 400 pcs. Brick consumption for the given example: 0.98 cubic meters. m * 400 pcs. \u003d 392 pcs.
Depending on the manufacturing company, there can be 300-330 bricks on one pallet. It is recommended to take building materials with a margin, therefore, in this case, it is recommended to buy 2 pallets.
Required materials and tools
To independently build the basement of the bath, you need to prepare all the necessary tools and building materials.
The main building material for the construction of the basement structure is solid brick of grades higher than M150. To connect it, you will need a cement-sand mortar, which includes:
- cement;
- sand and lime;
- water.
The quality of the prepared solution will depend on the reliability of the fastening of individual bricks to each other. Therefore, experts recommend using cement M300, M400, M500, fine-grained sand with lime, you can add a little clay.
To prepare the solution, you will need a separate container. The building mixture should be homogeneous and plastic. For its high-quality stirring, it is recommended to use a construction mixer or an electric drill with a special mixing attachment. It is recommended to sift the sand through a fine mesh sieve. To perform brickwork, you need to prepare a trowel (trowel), a level, a bucket for mortar, a hammer-pickaxe, mortar spatula.
It is important to take into account the moisture content of the soil at the construction site when making the mortar. The main rule for determining the grade of the masonry mixture is the use of elements of the same grade strength in its composition. For the basement of the bath, you can use a cement-sand mortar M75, M100.
The proportions of the mortar for the construction of a brick basement on wet soils (sand: cement) can be determined from the table:
| Cement grade | Solution grade | ||||
| M50 | M75 | M100 | M150 | M200 | |
| PC300 | 5:1 | 4:1 | 3:1 | 4:1 | |
| PC400 | 6:1 | 5,5:1 | 4,5:1 | 3:1 | 2,5:1 |
| PC500 | 7:1 | 6:1 | 5,5:1 | 2,5:1 | 3:1 |
The proportions of the solution for the construction of a brick basement on low-moisture soils (sand: cement: lime):
| Cement grade | Solution grade | ||||
| M50 | M75 | M100 | M150 | M200 | |
| PC300 | 6:1:0,6 | 4:1:0,3 | 3,5:1:0,2 | 2,5:1:0,1 | |
| PC400 | 8:1:0,9 | 5:1:0,5 | 4,5:1:0,4 | 3:1:0,2 | 2,5:1:0,1 |
| PC500 | 7:1:0,8 | 5,5:1:0,5 | 4:1:0,3 | 3:1:0,2 | |
How to properly lay a brick base?
Before starting the construction of brickwork, it is necessary to mark the foundation base. At this stage, the diagonals of the foundation must be checked: their length must be the same, otherwise the building will be skewed. To do this, you need a construction tape.
On the surface of the foundation in front of the brickwork, a waterproofing layer must be installed, which is designed to protect the basement walls from moisture penetration from below. According to building standards, the waterproofing layer is made of roofing material in 2 layers. Before laying the first layer of roofing material, mastic is applied to the base, then the surface of the roofing material is coated and the second layer of waterproofing material is placed.
If the construction of a massive basement is envisaged, a leveling concrete screed with a thickness of 2 cm is additionally equipped on top of the waterproofing layer and a reinforcing mesh made of wire with a diameter of 4 mm and cells of 5x5 cm is laid.This will give additional strength and rigidity to the basement of the building.
The first row of brick masonry is made in a bonded way. All seams must be carefully clogged with mortar, since moisture will contribute to their gradual destruction. When constructing high basement walls, it is recommended to carry out reinforcement every 3-5 rows of masonry, at least in the corners. Waterproofing is performed on top of the extreme row of the basement wall.
Since the basement walls of the building are more exposed to precipitation and interact with moisture for almost the entire operational period, they require additional protection. The best protection is the cladding of the basement masonry with natural stone. There are other options: artificial stone, facing ceramic tiles or plaster for external work.
Plinth in the construction of a log bath, it serves as a barrier between the ground and the outer wall, protecting the ground floor space from moisture, penetration of cold and other adverse factors. Usually, this is the protruding part of the foundation made of concrete or reinforced concrete. Since concrete in a moisture-saturated environment only enhances its strength properties, and wall materials do not have this property, it is advisable to raise the level of the first floor above the ground level by at least half a meter. This is especially true for baths, the walls of which are usually constructed of wood.
Base types
By constructive types are distinguished several types of base:
- flush with the wall;
- protruding beyond the wall by how many centimeters;
- with an overhanging wall on top.
The choice of type depends on the further decoration of the walls. However, the last type of structures "copes" best of all with the protection of the junction of the wall and the basement from the ingress of precipitation.
How to make the base correctly
If the basement part of the foundation is constructed of concrete or reinforced concrete, the best and most effective solution would be to pour it in one stroke. The formation of any seams in the body of the foundation (and the basement, as part of it) is fraught with a decrease in bearing capacity, the formation of pores and cracks, the penetration of moisture and cold through these voids, and the destruction of concrete during freezing and thawing. This is why the base / plinth should not have vertical or horizontal seams. This is especially true for reinforced concrete, where the foundation contains a reinforcing cage. Violation of the integrity of the protective layer of concrete, designed to protect the metal from corrosion, leads to a decrease in the bearing capacity of the structure.
The best option for a bath would be brick plinth... And not every brick will work. It is best to use red solid fired brick. It repels moisture well, and also serves as an excellent waterproofing. In addition, it has a wonderful property of absorbing heat and giving it away for a long time. This property does not allow the first crown of a log house to rot!
At the stage of erection of the base, ventilation openings should be provided. Two holes with dimensions of 150x150 mm on opposite sides of the foundation for a bath will be quite enough. You may also need holes for water supply and sewerage in the above-ground part of the foundation - they also need to be provided in advance.
Waterproofing
Another important point in the technological requirements for the basement is horizontal and / or vertical waterproofing. It protects the building from the penetration of ground moisture into the wall structures and the room.
For horizontal waterproofing, roll roofing material is usually used, laying it on top of the basement under the wall. In this case, the surface must be leveled with a cement-sand mortar screed so that the height differences do not exceed 5 mm. Then roofing material is glued onto hot bitumen.
Liquid rubber is used for vertical waterproofing. It is applied by spray or by hand - with a spatula, roller, brush, brush.
Both vertical and horizontal insulation is performed in two layers.
Warming
To prevent heat leakage from the room, it is required to protect the basement structure together with the foundation with some kind of insulation. The choice and depth of the insulation depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region. The wall is insulated from the outside, while rigid polystyrene foam or mineral wool is used with subsequent layers of waterproofing and reinforcement with glass mesh.
Alternative methods of erecting a base
Sometimes craftsmen use non-standard designs for the construction of a bath basement, for example, from silicate bricks, ordinary ordinary bricks, wall stones, slate, etc. It is worth noting that any wall materials as basements are undesirable, since they are not designed for direct contact with the ground ... Still, it is better to build structures in a single array with a base. If the foundation is made in the form of piles, then it is preferable to make the above-ground part in the form of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt.
The first and last row of a red brick base must be put in a poke, and all inner ones in spoons. This will provide a good bond and give the required rigidity. If there are more than 10 bricks next to it, then on the 5th row it is also necessary to "plug" the base.
If the foundation ends at a mark equal to the ground level, for the construction of the wooden walls of the bath, additional brickwork can be made as a basement. It is better to use a silicate type brick, as it interacts well with a humid environment. It is necessary to raise the level by 500-600 mm from the ground surface (but not less than 250 mm). The thickness of such a wall will be 400 mm for a large bath and 250 mm for a one-room small building.
It is imperative to make ventilation outlets. To do this, approximately in the middle of the masonry in height, air is left. It is advisable to make a reinforcing belt of reinforcement and concrete on top of the masonry. Waterproofing is laid under a brick and under a wall, since in this case we use three types of materials for the foundation, basement and walls.
Plinth trim
External cladding will additionally protect the base and wall structures from moisture and temperature extremes. Materials for cladding are used extremely durable - moisture and frost resistant. These include decorative facing bricks, tiles, hinged plastic systems. The basement, decorated with natural stone - limestone, sandstone, as well as artificial stones looks very beautiful.
The basement of the basement of a small bathhouse in a summer cottage can also be revetted with various improvised materials, for example, fragments of ceramic tiles or glass, laid out in the form of a mosaic.
P.S. Here is the basement and now we are ready to choose a log house for a bath and an EASY STEAM FOR YOU!
Easy steam for you!
The basement is, in fact, that visible part of the building, which is based on the foundation and is a kind of transition from the base to the walls of the house. It is obvious that in addition to the bearing capacity, that is, the inherent strength potential to withstand the entire load from the structures located above, the base must also withstand all external influences, since it is located in the most vulnerable place. In this regard, any material from which this part of the building will be built requires a special approach when choosing, effective protection during operation.
The basement belt can be built from reinforced concrete, rubble stone, building blocks or bricks - all these options require certain labor costs. A brick plinth on a strip foundation during the construction of a private house is quite often chosen for the reasons that such material is environmentally friendly (made from natural components), availability, including price, simplicity, more precisely, the clarity of construction, low thermal conductivity and good strength characteristics (naturally, when choosing high-quality bricks).
In order for a brick base on a reinforced concrete base to turn out to be reliable and serve for many years without requiring any repairs, the work on its construction must be performed in compliance with a number of rules. And let's start with what kind of brick can be used for these needs.
Materials for the construction of a brick base
What kind of brick is needed for the basement?
If you plan to use a brick to raise the basement belt, then the first thing to do is to choose the "correct" and high-quality material, since not everyone is suitable for laying out this part of the building.
Bricks are made from various raw materials and using different technologies, so the products may differ in purpose. Some samples are suitable for internal partitions, others for external walls, others -, fourth - exclusively as cladding, and so on.
- Silicate brick is usually not used in the construction of a basement, since the products do not have sufficient strength simply due to the specifics of the manufacturing technology and the materials used for this.
Silicate brick is widely used for the construction of internal and external walls and partitions, but for the basement it is poorly suited, since it is not resistant to moisture. And so something, but moisture in the area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation is always abundant.
- Ceramic bricks can be called the most suitable material not only for building a basement, but also for building or cladding the outer walls of a house. Several varieties are produced on an industrial scale, for example, building (ordinary) brick for the construction of walls, and facing, which is well suited for decorative finishing of the basement and above the located surfaces of the facade.
Such bricks are made from specially selected grades of clay and quartz sand, and in the process of high-temperature firing it receives the necessary strength and protection from moisture.
- Red brick M-150 has a fairly high strength and quite reasonable price. However, there is a drawback - the porous structure of such a product easily absorbs moisture. Therefore, unprotected brick quickly becomes wet, and at low temperatures it freezes and can crack, causing the supporting structure to be weakened. Such products are able to withstand 55 ÷ 60 winter cycles. In order to preserve the material in high-quality condition after the construction of the house, it is necessary (in addition to waterproofing and insulation) to provide for a protective finish of the basement walls - with resistant cement plaster or facing tiles.
- Red brick M-250 is more reliable, since plastic grades of clay are used for manufacturing, which acquire the necessary qualities after properly firing, and the resistance of finished products to external aggressive influences is incomparably higher, and the base may not even require a protective lining. Usually the laying of such a brick is made "for joining". A similar material is recommended for the construction of basements of buildings in regions with high humidity.
The marking speaks of the strength of the product - it is for it that the brick is selected for a particular application. Specifically, the numerical indicator speaks of the permissible load that the brick can withstand without destruction (expressed in kilograms per square centimeter).
For example, a brick marked M-100 is intended for the construction of internal or external walls of small one-story houses, but it will not work for multi-storey structures or a basement belt. For these purposes, products labeled M-200 and M-300 are mainly used, since such products are designed for high load and pronounced resistance to moisture.
In addition to the strength grade, the brick is distinguished by the frost resistance grade. It is denoted by the letter symbol F and a numerical indicator that indicates the guaranteed number of deep freeze and thaw cycles that the material will withstand without losing its characteristics. Naturally, for the base, the higher this indicator, the better.
Ceramic bricks differ in their size and structural structure.
According to the geometric dimensions, the brick is divided into ordinary single, one-and-a-half and double - the linear parameters are shown in the illustration. (In this case, we are not talking about facing bricks - there are a lot of various domestic and foreign standards, as well as non-standard options in general).
In addition, ceramic bricks are divided into solid and hollow (hollow).
- Solid brick has a solid structure of material, that is, an increased total density, which leads to an increase in its thermal conductivity. It is distinguished by its high strength, it is used for the construction of the supporting structures of the house, including the basement, and for internal walls and partitions, but the masonry from it will require more careful
- Hollow products are products that have in their structure a different number of blind or through holes of a rectangular or round shape. This type of brick has a lower thermal conductivity, therefore it is often used for the construction of external walls. In addition, the total density of such material is noticeably lower, which makes it possible to reduce the mass of building structures, to facilitate the tasks of transporting and carrying out masonry.
Hollow ceramic bricks can be suitable for the construction of the basement of small one-story houses. But for higher buildings, it is better to use full-bodied products, since they have a higher resistance to heavy loads.
By the way, it is always necessary to get acquainted with the technical characteristics of the purchased brick. Hollow products are also different - the percentage of "voidness" in them can range from 12 ÷ 13% to 40-50%, respectively, the permissible load indicators vary very widely. That is, you should choose the "golden mean" in order to get possible "preferences" from the reduced mass and thermal conductivity of the base, but at the same time - without losing the required index of compressive strength.
Calculating the number of bricks
When planning the construction of a basement, taking into account its required thickness, length and height, it is usually also calculated the amount of brick that will be required for these purposes. It is clear that it is advisable to perform such calculations in advance in order to include the obtained data in the estimate being made and to find out the amount required for the purchase of building material.
The thickness and height of the base, as a rule, are multiples of the linear dimensions of the brick. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account not only the above parameters, but also the thickness of the joints between the masonry bricks, which is usually 10 mm. That is, in order to calculate the number of bricks, taking into account the seams, the thickness of the seam should also be added to the length, width and height of the product. As a result, for example, the following dimensions of a single ordinary brick will be obtained: 260 × 130 × 75 mm (this also includes the thickness of the layer of the reinforcing mesh, if used).
A few words about the thickness of the base. When masonry, they usually operate with concepts related to the multiplicity of whole bricks or their halves: "half a brick", "brick", "one and a half bricks", etc. Knowing the linear parameters of the brick, adding the thickness of the joints to them, it is easy to obtain a "pure" value for the thickness of the masonry. However, this is well shown, with the stated dimensions, in the illustration below.
a- "in half a brick". (In practice, when building plinths, half-brick masonry is usually not used - as it is too thin and unstable). Thickness (hereinafter - without external finishing) - 120 mm
b - "in a brick". Thickness - 250 mm.
in - "one and a half bricks." Thickness - 380 mm.
r - "in two bricks". Thickness - 510 mm.
d - "2.5 bricks". Thickness - 640 mm.
Since there are other standard sizes of ordinary bricks (except for single - one and a half or double - in height), the calculation of the required amount can be made only after the type of purchased material has been determined.
The table below shows the average calculation of the number of bricks per 1 square meter of masonry:
| Masonry thickness in "bricks" | Masonry thickness in mm | Brick type | Number of bricks per 1 m² of masonry, pieces | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| - excluding seams | - taking into account the seams | |||
| "In half a brick" | 120 | Single | 61 | 51 |
| One and a half | 45 | 39 | ||
| Double | 30 | 26 | ||
| "In one brick" | 250 | Single | 128 | 102 |
| One and a half | 95 | 78 | ||
| Double | 60 | 52 | ||
| "One and a half bricks" | 380 | Single | 189 | 153 |
| One and a half | 140 | 117 | ||
| Double | 90 | 78 | ||
| "Two bricks" | 510 | Single | 256 | 204 |
| One and a half | 190 | 156 | ||
| Double | 120 | 104 | ||
| "Two and a half bricks" | 640 | Single | 317 | 255 |
| One and a half | 235 | 195 | ||
| Double | 150 | 130 | ||
Most often, calculations are made individually for each specific building, taking into account all the above parameters. In this case, after counting the bricks, it is recommended to add a certain margin to the result, from 5 to 15%, depending on the degree of the builder's skill and on the quality of the material being purchased. Such a measure is usually taken with any building material: the stock is never placed, but the shortage at the most unnecessary moment will slow down the work process.
Let's make it easier for the reader - below is a convenient online calculator that will quickly and accurately carry out the necessary calculations.
Calculator for calculating the number of bricks for the construction of a basement
In this article, we will consider, using a specific example, the device of a strip foundation for a bath with a brick base. A strip foundation is a solid foundation erected under the wall of a building (structure).
In Russia, the bathhouse has long been an indispensable attribute of both the peasant household and the noble estate. Tsars, boyars, and commoners loved to steam in the bathhouse. Of course, the main purpose of the bath is sanitary and hygienic, but our ancestors were well aware of the health-improving functions of bath procedures, knew many secrets of enhancing the beneficial effect of bath steam, used all kinds of herbs for steam, brooms, ointments, teas. Even such a proverb was invented: "What day you take a steam bath, that day you don't grow old!"
In addition to knowledge about the benefits and necessity of bathing and washing procedures, a hard-working Russian man could also build this very bathhouse with his own hands, which cannot be said about most modern urban residents, who in recent years, tired of the hustle and bustle of megacities, are increasingly thinking about purchasing country houses, garden plots or, at least, small summer cottages, but construction work is entrusted to third-party organizations and teams. After all, the townspeople themselves simply do not know either the old "old-fashioned" construction techniques, or modern technologies.
Meanwhile, a bathhouse can be built independently, according to your needs and capabilities, while significantly saving your family budget.
Having decided on the size of the building, you need to prepare the construction site, and you can start building the foundation of the bath. The foundation for a bath can be columnar, tape and pile, including from.
If you have chosen a strip foundation for your bath, then our article will help you implement your project in the shortest possible time and with the lowest financial costs.
Stages of construction of a strip foundation for a summer residence
Place of construction of the strip foundation: a summer cottage in a garden society.
Foundation dimensions: 6 × 6 m. Including: dressing room (rest room) - 3 × 6 m., Sink - 3 × 4 m., Steam room - 2 × 3 m.
Features of the building site: the former owners of the site began to build a strip foundation on three sides around the perimeter of the bath, the size of one side is 6m, two sides are 4m each, the width of the foundation is 300 mm, the height is 300 mm. Another important feature of this site is that at the time of construction work, there was no possibility of connecting to power grids.
Objective: to complete the remaining strip foundation (perimeter and under the internal partitions).
1. Preparation of the construction site. The building site must be free of debris and any foreign objects, the vegetation layer of the soil must be removed, the site must be leveled.
2. Layout of the site according to the planned plan. In order to take out the axes, a geodetic instrument was used - theodolite. Wooden pegs were installed along the perimeter of the future strip foundation and a cord was pulled. In the absence of a theodolite, we recall the Pythagorean theorem that in a right-angled triangle the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse, we take a tape measure and a cord, make a breakdown.
3. Creation of a trench. In order to build a strip foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench, the depth of which can be individual, depending on the characteristics of the soil in the area. In our case, backfilling was previously made on the site, so a layer of fertile soil was removed to a dense layer of sand, and the depth of the trench was 250 mm. When erecting a strip foundation, a layer of sand and a layer of crushed stone are poured into the trench, each of the layers can reach a thickness of 100 mm. But, since we did not need to pour a layer of sand, only crushed stone was filled.
4. Formwork device. For the formwork, a board of 50 × 150 mm and reinforcement with a length of 700 mm and a cross section of 14 mm were used. The reinforcement is vertically driven into the ground every 2-3 meters along the perimeter of the dug trench, then boards are installed along the edges. From above we nail a picket fence (block) 25 × 40 mm in size and 400-450 mm long. The distance between the bars is 1-1.5 m. After installing the formwork, we level it with a geodetic device - a leveling on a picket fence, set "beacons" in the corners, using nails for this.
5. Laying of reinforcement. It is necessary to lay reinforcement with a cross section of 12-14 mm in the trench, 2 pieces on each side. The length of the reinforcement is calculated as follows: 0.04 m should remain on each side, if the length of the wall is, for example, 6 m, then the length of the reinforcement is 5.92 m. this must be taken care of in advance. Since we had a part of the strip foundation poured, along the edges of which reinforcing outlets were left, an overlap was made to the reinforcement with steel knitting wire. We put broken brick under the reinforcement, the amount can be any, the main thing is that the reinforcement does not sag. You can, of course, perform longitudinal and transverse reinforcement, but this is usually performed when erecting foundations for heavier structures. For a light one-story timber bath, there is no need to carry out this kind of reinforcement, there will simply be an extra metal consumption.
6. Preparation of concrete mortar and its laying. The concrete mix can be prepared mechanically, using, or manually, by mixing the composition in an iron container suitable for this purpose. In our case, the manual method was used, using a "solution jar" with a capacity of 0.13 cubic meters.
The composition of the concrete solution may vary. It depends on several factors: on the grade of cement and the desired grade of concrete, on the additives used and their characteristics, on the requirements for the fluidity of the solution, etc.
The commonly used ratio of crushed stone, sand and cement is 5: 3: 1, the water-cement ratio (W / C) is 0.5. It should be borne in mind that the composition of concrete is calculated for dry materials. The same sand in its normal state has a moisture content of 5%, and if it gets wet with rain, then - about 10%.
The composition of the concrete mixture per 1 cu. m.
- medium crushed stone (fraction 20-40 mm) - 1900 kg.
clean sand (moisture content 5%) - 1140 kg. - portland cement PC 500 - 380 kg.
- water (from a well or tap water) ~ 172 l.
The required amount of concrete mix is \u200b\u200beasy to calculate based on the size of the future strip foundation. In our case: height - 0.3 m, width - 0.3 m, length - 19 m (6 + 2 + 2 + 6 + 3). Therefore, we need V \u003d 0.3 × 0.3 × 19 \u003d 1.71 cubic meters.
In our case, construction work was carried out when the air temperature at night dropped to minus 5 ° C, therefore, an additional anti-freeze plasticizing additive Benotech PMP-1, which is sold in liquid form, was used. At temperatures from 0 to −5 ° C, it is necessary to add 1% of an additive based on the mass of cement to the concrete mixture. The amount is calculated based on the mass of dry matter, which contains approximately 453.4 g in one liter of the additive. 380 kg. Portland cement needs 8.38 liters. additives.
You can use another additive that accelerates the hardening of the concrete mixture and has anti-freeze properties.
If it is possible to connect to the power grid, the concrete structure can be heated using a heating formwork, which uses heating cables, heating elements, mesh heaters and other heating elements. In addition, the concrete mix can be heated up to 40-60 ° C prior to laying.
Technology for preparing concrete mix for strip foundations
The required amount of sand is poured into the container, a depression is made in it and cement is poured, everything is thoroughly mixed with a shovel. Crushed stone is added to this mixture and mixed well again. Then water is gradually added, preferably from a watering can, so as not to wash out the sand particles with a strong jet.
On the garden plot, there may not be containers at hand for accurately counting the required amount of material, therefore buckets are often used for these purposes.
Amount of material in one bucket (10 l):
- crushed stone - 15-17 kg
- sand - 14-17 kg
- cement - 13-15 kg
The amount of crushed stone depends on its fraction, the amount of sand depends on moisture, and the amount of cement is affected by the density of its compaction during backfilling.
Laying concrete mortar
- The ready-made mortar is poured into the formwork, leveled, pierced with a probe or bayonet shovel (to remove excess air), knocked from the outer part of the formwork with a wooden hammer.
- If it is possible to connect to the mains, then a deep vibrator can be used to compact the concrete mixture.
- At negative temperatures, the strip foundation is covered from above with a film and a layer of sawdust or any insulation.
- After three days, the formwork can be carefully removed.
7. The device of the base. Having convinced of the sufficient strength of the concrete strip foundation, you can proceed to the next stage - the installation of the basement.
For this we need the following materials
- roofing material - 1 roll 15 × 1 m;
- pipe (metal or plastic, section 32-57 mm), total length - 1500 mm;
- masonry mesh 500 × 1500 mm - 24 pieces;
- mortar for masonry (cement-sand, 1: 4);
- solid ceramic brick - 808 pcs.
Strip foundation - the order of work
1. A layer of roofing material (or other waterproofing material) is laid on the concrete foundation. Roofing material is easily cut with a knife into strips of the required width.
2. For brickwork, a single-row (chain) ligation method was used. A layer of mortar for masonry is laid on top of the waterproofing material, then, across the longitudinal axis of the foundation, a brick is laid to form a butt row of masonry. Lay a masonry mesh on top of the first row of bricks. The second row of masonry is spoon (along the axis).
3. The number of rows of masonry will depend on the desired height of the strip foundation for the bath. In our case, 4 rows of masonry were made (see information on).
4. The required number of bricks is calculated as follows: the standard size of one brick is 250 × 120 × 65 mm, the length of the base is 35 m, two rows of masonry with a butt side of 120 mm, two rows of 250 mm, seams - 10 mm. We make a simple calculation: 3500 × 2: 13 + 3500 × 2: 26 \u003d 807.69. Therefore, we need approximately 808 bricks.
5. In the third row of masonry (bonded) it is necessary to make ventilation ducts. To do this, we use scraps of a metal or plastic pipe, which is mounted across the axis of the foundation in a horizontal position. The diameter of the pipe does not really matter, we used the one that was available. 5 air vents were made for the entire foundation.
6. On top of the third row of bricks, a row of masonry mesh is again laid, then - the last row of bricks (spoon).
7. The final stage - the device of a cement screed from a thick mortar 1: 2-3. The recommended height of the cement screed is 20 mm.
8. We are waiting for the complete drying of the solution.
That's all, our strip foundation has been successfully completed, and you can proceed to the next stage of building a bath.