Ecology of consumption. Manor: A small stove for a summer residence of bricks can be made in a short time and with your own hands, without the help of a professional. We will talk about the preparation of the foundation, what materials are better to choose for laying the stove, and how to properly prepare the brick and clay so that the stove will serve for a long time and heat your home well.
Very modest requirements are put forward for a brick oven for a dacha made of bricks with their own hands. Long breaks between visits, a relatively small volume of heated space, maximum efficiency and the use of local fuel - all these criteria indicate the choice in favor of a wood-burning stove. Contrary to popular belief, it is quite possible to do it without the services of a master stove-maker. Let's take a closer look at how a small brick oven for a summer residence is designed and built.
Preparation for work
It is unlikely that it will be possible to make a complex and highly efficient stone stove for giving out of bricks with your own hands without building experience. Too many nuances and secrets are hidden in the work of a professional master stove-maker. But a small in size and simple in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer residence - it may well be built even by an unprepared person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, accurately and in accordance with our recommendations.
Selection of building materials
Since the described small brick stove for summer cottages is fired with wood, it is not intended for intensive and prolonged heating - it can be folded from ordinary, not refractory bricks. Although, it is better to use a heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.
List and required amount of materials:
- red ceramic solid brick - 700 pcs.;
- grate grate - 1 pc .;
- furnace door - 1 pc .;
- blower door - 1 pc .;
- soot cleaning channel doors - 2 pcs .;
- gate valve - 1 pc.
For a wood-burning stove with your own hands, you need to choose a full-bodied kernelsamic bricks, which do not crumble from the average blow of a hammer, and at the same time emit not a sonorous sound (this is a heated brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side faces of the bricks are smooth.
Clay will be needed for the solution. Stoves prefer to choose "fatty", from which the solution is soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a stove for a summer residence can be found with your own hands in hardware stores or, after consulting with local residents, just dig up in the area.
Tool
With a good tool, a stove for a country house can be built quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, a plumb line, a trowel, a bricklayer's hammer and utensils for preparing clay mortar. You need a grinder to cut bricks.
Preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer residence
Whatever the small brick oven for giving with your own hands - its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, you cannot put it on the wooden floor of the room, but you will need a foundation.
To choose the right place for the foundation, you need to project the stove plan onto the ground in such a way that its pipe falls between the floor beams and the roof logs. If a chimney is provided in the wall of the house, then the stove for the country house should be located near it. When building a new house, a stove for a summer cottage can be built into the wall between rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but in one of the rooms, even under the most unfavorable conditions, there will never be smoke.
The depth of the foundation must exceed the depth of soil freezing. However, if the country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined base can be made at the stove for a summer residence. To do this, four light concrete posts, for example, those used for fences, are vertically dug into the ground. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.
Between them, right on the surface of the soil, a gravel or sand cushion is poured into a half-brick. Then a layer of roofing material or other sheet waterproofing is laid. A reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top, and a concrete foundation with reinforcement is poured on top of it. The top of the foundation must be level with the floor and perfectly horizontal!
Let's start building a furnace
On top of the foundation, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing, and on it - a metal sheet. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, from the side of loading firewood, it is better to make a larger release. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.
During operation, the stove for the summer residence heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest protection can be a sheet of asbestos painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque. Asbestos cannot be kept open, as its dust is considered very hazardous for inhalation. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself stove for a summer residence can be isolated from wood with a slab of hard mineral wool. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, since it has a too low temperature limit.
Preparing clay mortar
The country stove is built on clay, not cement. Clay mortar is prepared from good clay and clean river or sea sand. If the clay is not purchased, but was dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then you should first check its quality. To do this, we make several trial batches with different proportions of clay and sand. Roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rollers, cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.
Dried products need to be tested: toss them from a height of human growth, try to crush them with a board under the weight of a kettlebell, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the picture shown, the best batch corresponds to samples "b".
Preparing bricks and clay
A do-it-yourself stove for a summer residence is built from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will go out, and the clay will be good for the brick in the masonry. Clay needs to be cooked quite a bit, so that about 20-25 pieces are enough for stacking. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you can't put more at a time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry must not exceed 5 mm.
Features of stove masonry
In order for a stove in the country, laid out with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and horizontal surface. The stacking sequence is visible in the ordering drawing.
The cast-iron doors of the blower and combustion chamber are fastened with steel wire, which is walled up in the masonry. The cuts are made with a grinder. As a last resort, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a mason's hammer-pick, but at the same time a lot of waste is possible. The grate area should be slightly larger than the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.
The mortar is applied to wet brick. Experienced stove-makers do this not with a trowel, but with their hand. A good solution is applied as easily as soft butter is spread on bread.
Important note
If, during laying, the brick sagged lower than necessary, it should be removed, cleaned the mortar and laid on a fresh one. Otherwise, the new stove in the country will smoke heavily and let through soot. Unlike cement mortar, it is absolutely impossible to move a brick on a clay mortar!
When building a stove in the country, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. Outside, the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. Outside seams should be carefully embroidered with a jointing or finger. In places where arches and horizontal partitions are formed, there should be no gaps either. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one a day, so that the lower rows have time to grab, and the upper ones do not crawl.
Outcome
Despite the small size and simple design, brick country stoves are very popular for small houses, as they show very good results. They heat up quickly, and the heat is enough for the whole day. A small brick oven for a summer residence is notable for its low cost and availability for self-production, but with permanent residence in the winter, it will have to be heated twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. published
The need for warmth and comfort in a private house arises already in the middle of autumn, and it is good if central heating is carried out to the house. Those who have to independently heat their home will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. Modern boilers or electric fireplaces can solve the problem today, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of living fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of firewood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the question arises for you: "How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?" In this article, we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account the diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. You just have to correctly repeat all the described processes, and you will become the owner of a solid home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.
It is very easy to make a brick oven if you have a clear idea of which type of oven will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and already starting from the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of ovens in relation to the type of buildings.
- Stove in a wooden house. A stove of this type needs a very solid base. It is better to provide for the presence of a furnace even at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for furnace equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for a wooden house would be a compact stove made of bricks of a heating and cooking type of medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.
- Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, heating water, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a lounger, is very convenient, but it will not fit into a small house, and also requires the creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.
- Stove in a country house. An ideal option for a country house would be a stove with a hob and a heating water tank.
- Stove in a cottage or in the country. A cottage and a summer house imply a visit only during a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a structure it will be sufficient to install a small brick oven with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the stove structure, folded according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.
- Home stove with a bath. If a bathhouse is attached to your house, it is quite acceptable to build a brick heater with a built-in boiler for heating living quarters.
- Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, therefore, they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecue grills, barbecue grills, cast-iron cauldrons, etc.
BBQ hob with oven
This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. You can move on.
Stove-maker's advice. When deciding on the choice of the size of the furnace structure, first of all, pay attention to such points as comfort of use and fire safety!
Stage 2. Building material: choice
When choosing a brick, you need to consider how resistant it will be to the effects of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of the brick as a building material will determine the life of the kiln. It is important!
Choosing a brick
Any brick is marked. One of them stands for density. For stoves, it is optimal to purchase bricks with markings from 75 to 250, while it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the more slowly the stove will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated dense brick stove will slowly cool down, releasing its soft heat into the atmosphere.
If you plan to build a stove in a bath, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that it does not take a lot of time to kindle. And for appliances intended for heating living quarters and preparing meals, it is worth purchasing a denser brick.
It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.
The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney, which is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which deforms the material during crystallization. The best indicators of frost resistance are for hollow facing bricks, while the inside of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.
It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. There are few pores in these products, they withstand temperature changes well, the masonry does not crack even after a long downtime of the oven. Silicate products, pressed, cast by slip casting, raw raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.
Fireclay bricks made in accordance with GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. Such a brick can be used to build the entire furnace or use it only for lining the inner working surfaces of the furnace. For the masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark inclusions, fireclay bricks Ш22 - Ш45 are suitable for the furnace arch. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are operated only at a moisture content of less than 60%. In the bath, it is better to use clinker brick or ceramic refractory.
Fireclay brick prices
fireclay brick
How to check the quality of bricks:
- if the product is dropped on the floor, it will split into large pieces. If the brick has crumbled, discard the batch;
- if you touch a brick, it does not get dusty;
- if a quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear ringing continuous sound;
- the edges of a good brick are even, the color is rich and even.
GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. Download file
GOST 8691-73. REFRACTORY PRODUCTS OF GENERAL PURPOSE. FORM AND SIZES. Download file
Choosing a mortar
The choice of mortar is an important point. If the solution is not correct, then the stove will smoke, and cracks may appear on the surface of the structure very soon.
Most often, the masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (grains of sand with a maximum of 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before mixing. The soaked clay is rubbed through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry seam should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.
Clay mortar - preparation
The proportions for clay mortar depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the mortar too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test mixing of the solutions in order to determine the required proportions of sand and clay, while it is important to thoroughly stir the sand, adding it in several steps.
A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it well, rolling a ball, and then putting and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was squeezed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying the furnace. Additional quality control - drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. A good quality dried ball will not wrinkle when pressed.
How much water to pour? We again make test mixes and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We draw with a trowel over the mixed solution and look at the trail:
- if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
- if it swam almost instantly, there is an excess of moisture;
- if the trace is clear and the edges are even, then the mortar is suitable for laying the stove.
Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped in a solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, there are streaky streaks on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, and in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly translucent, and the streaks are patterned.
Note! It is advisable to use soft water to mix the masonry mixture. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees or more, will reduce the strength of the mortar.
The last suitability test is carried out by spreading a layer of 3 mm on a bed of bricks. The second brick is glued to the first one, tapped with a mallet and wait up to 5-10 minutes. Within the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the oven is guaranteed to last for a hundred years.
Note! For laying the firebox, either chamotte sand or a mixture of equal proportions of chamotte and quartz sand is added to the solution.
Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a furnace
Clay mortar for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney is not used. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime dough - from 9 to 16 parts).
Important! If you think that you will not be able to cope with the preparation, testing and mixing of the clay solution, purchase ready-made oven mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg 306 rubles). For red bricks, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and gray refractory mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.
Prices for cement M600
cement М600
Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the number of bricks for masonry
At the second stage, it is necessary to carry out the optimal calculation of the size of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the furnace structure, you can set the required amount of bricks. Single red solid brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.
Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox is laid out in almost all furnaces, are manufactured and marked in accordance with GOST 8691-73. See table for size information.
For one square meter of masonry in half a brick you will need:
- excluding the mortar joint - 61 bricks;
- taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.
Accordingly, for two meters of square brickwork, 122 or 113 full-bodied red bricks will be needed, and the estimated amount of mortar used will be 0.022 m3.
Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the furnace wall thickness is not 120, but already 250 mm, then 128 or 115 bricks will be used for each square meter, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.
How is a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire furnace made:
- the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
- the resulting value is multiplied by the number of oven rows;
- the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).
For example, let's calculate the number of bricks per oven measuring 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, there will be 24.5 pieces in the first row. We multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pieces. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pcs., Round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.
The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are taken in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 ("Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning") and SNiP 2.09.03-85 ("Chimneys"), which will be described in detail below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:
We consider: 4x56 = 224 pcs. Add another 56 bricks to the otter, cut and fluff and multiply the result by 10%. It remains only to add up the number of bricks for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.
You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or taking into work an already existing ordering scheme, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the furnace, recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors, are given.
This information can be used in practice, forming an individual plan for the costs of brick material.
It is worth noting: if you want to ultimately get a perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the selection of the stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.
Stage 4. Choosing a stove location
So, after you have decided on the type of stove, determined the area of the stove structure, and also selected the building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a place for installing the stove.
Usually, the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against the wall, which saves precious meters of living space.
The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, while simultaneously being in several adjacent rooms with its different faces, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.
It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure the proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow the air masses to circulate effectively (provided that the exhaust and supply air vents are correctly located).
However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, it is worth adhering to the following distances:
Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of works
Stone and furnace work. Downloads pdf
Stage 5. Foundation
A stove made of bricks has a large specific gravity, therefore, the structure cannot be installed without a reliable foundation.
The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.
Regardless of the type, the base of the stove should not be tied to the base of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for the house, starting from the type of soil.
- Gravel-sandy soil allows you to equip a shallow foundation.
- If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to fill the foundation on a crushed stone pad, while deepening it to the level of freezing.
- In permafrost zones, a pile-screw foundation is equipped, with special attention paid to the thermal insulation of the piles.
- On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have a minimum thickness or be absent altogether.
- Filled soil is not suitable for installing a brick oven.
Consider a method of arranging solid bases for a brick oven.
Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the furnace and add 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location of the ceiling beams - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, and taking into account the indentation regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to make a drainage (drainage) from the foundation of the furnace in order to reduce moisture and soil heaving.
Step 2. We ram the bottom of the pit and align it horizontally as much as possible. We fill in a ten-centimeter layer of small broken brick, rubble stone or rubble. We repeat the ramming procedure.
Step 3. We prepare a slurry (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.
- to combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement filling. This option is acceptable for bases of shallow depth, namely up to 50 cm;
- install the reinforcement cage and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with a wire made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. The size of the cells is 10x10 cm. A formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm away from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, the mixture in the process of pouring is compacted with a deep vibrator or a metal bar. The upper pouring point should be 15 cm below the level of the finished floor;
- pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay out the walls of the foundation of silicate or red brick, and fill the inner part with concrete with backfill (the loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).
The first and third versions of the bases are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.
Further work is carried out after complete drying of the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation.
Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fix it with mastic (for roofing we use tar, for roofing material - bituminous).
Step 6... We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We put whole bricks at the edges, halves inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm of the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the oven itself.
We do not use cement to bond the bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then we lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base, ideally, should be exactly level with the finished floor or rise above it by 3-4 cm.
Important note! Do not use brick for construction that has been lying on the street all winter and has been repeatedly wet and freezing. Such products are capable of rapidly deteriorating, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.
We fill the space between the foundation of the furnace and the house with river sand.
Stage 6. Do-it-yourself construction of a heater-heater. Step-by-step instruction
This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob on which it is easy to heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, therefore, warm water will be available even the morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters up to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.
The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and the fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold about 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are heated evenly, so that the steam in the bath is dry and thick enough, hot.
The height of the furnace will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay / fill it in advance.
During the construction of the furnace (the chimney is not taken into account), the following will be used:
- 269 red bricks;
- 63 refractory bricks ША-8;
- cast iron furnace door with dimensions 0.21x0.25 m;
Stove door - example
- blower door 0.14x0.25 m;
- two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
- grate 0.38x0.25 m;
- two-burner hob made of cast iron 0.51x0.34 m;
- oven for laying stones measuring 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
- one valve for the "summer" mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;
- one chimney valve, size 0.13x0.25 m;
- pre-furnace steel sheet with a size of at least 50x70 cm.
- the key in masonry is the construction joint. It should be uniform in each row, carefully missed. Only in this way will you get the solidity of the furnace structure, and exclude smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Follow the process very carefully;
- before laying a brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container with water and immerse the bricks in water for 5 to 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at the highest level in the future. The wet brick after drying excludes the occurrence of cracks in the finished furnace structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
- before laying each subsequent row, use a building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the workflow is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.
We lay out the first row of red brick. In total, you will need 24 intact and one brick sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, with a meter level, check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check the squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber hammer. We make the seams no more than five millimeters.
The second row does not differ from the first in either the quantity of brick or its quality. One has only to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling in the middle.
For the third row, take twenty red bricks and the ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, four more we cut with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).
Before cutting, we wet the brick and fix it securely. We observe safety precautions !!!
Brick cutting with a grinder - photo
Video - How to cut a brick
Video - Sawing oven brick with a grinder
We are not in a hurry to apply the solution, first we spread the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the chipped (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the inner surfaces of channels and furnaces with clay.
If the brick was laid unsuccessfully, we remove it, clean it from the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then re-adjust it.
In the same row we fix the door, for this we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist a steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, the number of rods for twisting from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire strands between the rows of bricks.
Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks
Installing the oven door - photo
Video - How to attach the wire to the door
Video - How to fix the furnace door of the blower
The mud and the weight of the bricks will hold the door frame securely.
Another way to install the door is using metal strips or plates extended at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to hew out grooves on the bricks.
The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked with a plumb line and level.
Advice. To make the cleanout door fit more accurately and accurately, remove the rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located along the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the opening for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.
Don't worry if you only manage to lay out three rows in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying takes time, patience and neatness.
In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately put a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, just with a solution, since in this place the temperature will be low, and the thermal expansion of the metal is minimal.
For the fifth row, take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the "lock" method. Lay the bricks with the chipped side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.
Row 6
In the sixth row, six and a half fireclay bricks and 12 red bricks will be used. It is shown in yellow in the diagram. Lay out the base of the fuel chamber from the fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The opening for the lattice should be 5-7 mm larger than it, so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. The space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) is covered with sand.
Experienced stove-makers advise to lay the grate with a slight, up to three centimeters, incline towards the stove door.
We block the cleaning door with one brick.
In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick, which is placed in the back of the firebox, obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.
We install the door using an asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.
We also place a welded oven made of steel with a thickness of 8 mm. The back of the cabinet will be in the fuel chamber. The door of the cabinet is slightly less than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall to the floor.
We carry out the masonry according to the schemes-orders. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.
For the ninth row, you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.
In this row, using the "lock" method already discussed above, we block the fire door. The entire row will take 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and 1 more fireclay hewn with a wedge.
We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. We close the door and the back of the oven. We lay bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertically located channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.
We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We make the shrinkage, as shown in the diagram, and we also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We put the hob 51x34 cm, we do not use the solution.
We install the valve in the near vertical channel. To install a metal element, we make slots in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.
Gate valve in the furnace - photo
For work, we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.
We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use chamotte.
We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.
We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.
We block the far channel and the central one. We cut off the two bricks above the niche obliquely to make the castle floor. We also obliquely grind the brick over the hob. We put the wedge brick in the castle. Consumption per row - 18 pcs.
We shut off the oven completely, except for the near channel. In this channel we make cuts to install a 13x25 cm gate valve. Above the slab, we cut another brick obliquely. Consumption - 16 pcs.
Of 17 and a half bricks, we make a second overlap, leaving only a 13x13 cm smoke channel.
From four bricks we form the base of the chimney pipe.
With the bandaging we put the second row of the pipe.
Video - Description of the construction of the furnace
The inner surfaces of the furnace should be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned or scraped off.
How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with open valves and doors for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put quite a bit of fuel in the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. In this case, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet traces on the walls and no condensation on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real firebox.
Video - Do-it-yourself sauna stove
Video - Drying the oven
After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft can be checked in it by opening the latches, then holding the burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates inside the furnace, then there is a draft.
The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More precisely, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that raw pipes will have a slightly weaker draft.
It is recommended to whitewash the brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime, so that leaks of furnace gases become immediately noticeable. The defective pipe is repaired immediately. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and for masonry, a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used, the brick is chosen of the highest quality, without chips, cracks, or other defects.
Do not forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the bathhouse in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately seal them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.
Video - How to fold the oven with your own hands
Video - Laying the first row of bricks
Despite the modern abundance of heating and kitchen equipment, many owners cannot imagine a private house without a stove - and this is absolutely correct. Even if it is planned to create an autonomous heating system, then the stove will also be useful. For example, in order to save money in the spring or autumn, when full-fledged heating is no longer needed, but you do not want to breed excessive dampness in the house. By heating the stove once a day or every two days, you can maintain an optimal balance of humidity and heat indoors.
To fold the stove with your own hands, the step-by-step instruction of which has intricate configurations - it will be quite difficult for a beginner. Therefore, if there is no experience in stove business, then it is better to choose an affordable ordering option, which will be easy to figure out.
When choosing a model, you need to take into account not only the simplicity of the circuit, but also the heat transfer and functionality of the oven, since there are ovens in which not all functions are provided. Heat transfer is selected depending on the area to be heated by the heating structure.
There are a lot of stove models, since experienced stove-makers, working on one of them, make their own adjustments to its design, and thanks to this, new and new variants of the heater appear. And in order to dwell on one of the types of ovens, you need to know what they are in terms of functionality.
Prices for fireclay bricks for laying furnaces
fireclay brick
Types of brick ovens
There are T The main types are heating and cooking, cooking and simply heating without additional built-in elements.
- A heating and cooking stove can have not only a hob, but an oven and a tank for warming water, as well as a drying niche. In addition, such a structure is capable of heating one or two rooms of a certain area.
Such ovens are often built into the wall, turning the hob and firebox towards the kitchen, and the back wall towards the living room. Thus, the oven performs a triple function - it acts as a partition, food is cooked on it, and it provides dry heat to the bedroom or living room.
- work only for heating, and most often have a compact size. Such a stove is installed precisely in order to maintain a balance of moisture and heat in the house in autumn or spring, when it is too early to turn on the autonomous heating or have not yet turned on the central one.
It is good to install such an oven, for example, in the country, if there is a device on which you can cook food. If the power supply in the holiday village is often cut off, then it is better to choose a building with a hob for installation.
- The cooking version of the oven can also be used for heating, if you need to heat a small area. The device is perfect for a country house or for a small building for permanent residence.
Having such a stove and a supply of firewood, you do not have to worry that the house will be cold and damp, and the family will be left without dinner or hot tea in the event of a power outage or gas outage.
It should be noted that any type of oven can be compact or massive. The choice of the size of the stove structure depends on the area of the house or room, as well as the place that is allotted for the construction.
Choosing a place to install the oven
When choosing a place for the construction of a furnace, it is necessary to provide for nuances that are important not only for creating comfortable operating conditions, but also for reasons of fire safety. It is especially important to consider location stoves in an already built house, since the chimney should not stumble during its erection on the beams of the attic floor or on the rafter legs of the roof.
The stove is installed against an internal load-bearing wall, in the middle of a room, or embedded in a wall located inside the house.
- It is not recommended to erect the stove near the outer wall, as it will quickly cool down, and the efficiency from its use will be significantly reduced.
- In the middle of a large room, a stove is installed if it is necessary to divide the room into two zones. Moreover, with a beautiful decorative finish, it will become a decoration of the house and can become one of the elements for the interior that will emphasize a certain style.
- When building a stove into a partition between rooms, it is imperative to provide for its isolation from combustible wall materials using heat-resistant sheets of asbestos or special drywall.
- The space allocated for the stove should be 120 ÷ 150 mm larger than its base in each direction, since the perimeter of the foundation always slightly exceeds the size of the stove.
- In order to make it easier to determine the size, you need to choose the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.
When the model is selected and the installation site is determined, you can proceed to the purchase of materials and the preparation of all the necessary tools. The number and range of materials for each of the models is selected individually, but the tools used for masonry are always the same.
Tools to get the job done
For the process of erecting the furnace, you will need the following devices and tools:
A) A pick is used to cut and split bricks.
B) The kiln hammer has the same functions as the pickaxe, but, in addition, it is convenient for them to remove the dried solution protruding from the masonry.
C) The rule is used to level the concrete on the surface of the foundation. Often it is made independently from a perfectly flat planed board.
D) A wooden spatula is used for grinding and mixing the clay solution.
E) Level is a necessary tool, as it will help maintain the evenness of the rows, both horizontally and vertically.
E) A bristle brush is used to remove sand and hardened mortar from the inner surfaces of the oven.
G) Pliers are used to nibble and bend steel wire when installing and fixing cast iron structural elements.
H) Lead scribe is used for marking when decorating the stove with tiles.
I) Stukalese - a piece of pipe used to fit tiles.
K) Scribe-rod for marking.
K) The rasp is used for lapping lumps and removing sagging from finished masonry.
M) The building angle is required to bring the inner and outer corners to 90 degrees.
H) A plumb line is used to check the verticality of the walls.
O) A rubber hammer is used to tap in a row of bricks.
P) A chisel is needed for parsing old masonry and splitting bricks.
P) Trowels or trowels are used to remove excess mortar and apply it to the rows of bricks when laying.
C) Joining will be needed if the stove is not lined with finishing material, and the seams between the rows will be neatly shaped.
In addition, you will need two containers for the solution and water, as well as a sand sieve if the solution is to be made independently.
The laying of the upper rows will be easier if there are "goats"
For the convenience of work, you need to have a scaffold, which is also called "goats". It is convenient to stand on them, laying the masonry at a height, especially since the size of the working platform provides a place for installing a container with a solution.
Arrangement of the foundation for the furnace
- The foundation for the furnace is usually laid along with a common foundation for the entire structure, but they should not be interconnected, since during deformation or shrinkage, one of them can damage the other.
- If the stove is to be erected in a house already built on a strip or columnar foundation with a wooden floor, then the cover will have to be opened and the base for the stove must be erected from the ground.
- If a compact stove model is chosen, and a slab foundation is arranged under the house, then the heating structure can be erected directly on it by making a waterproofing gasket.
If the foundation sun after all, you will have to equip "from scratch", you need to remember that it should have the same shape as the base of the furnace, but protrude beyond it by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each side.
- On a wooden the floor is marked the contour of the foundation, part of the boardwalk is cut out according to the markings.
- Further, a foundation pit of the required size, 450 ÷ 500 mm deep, is dug in the underground soil.
- The soil at the bottom of the pit is well compacted, and a sand bed is made on it, which is moistened with water and also compacted to a thickness of 80 ÷ 100 mm.
Pit for the furnace foundation with a sand and gravel "pillow"
- After that, roofing material can be laid along the perimeter of the pit, which will perform the function of waterproofing and formwork, if temporarily reinforced with boards or bricks. After the concrete solution has solidified, the formwork is removed from the foundation.
Instead of roofing material, you can use formwork made of boards, covered from the inside with a polyethylene sheet.
It should be noted right away that it is better if the concrete base for the furnace rises above the floor by 70 ÷ 100 mm. Thus, you can save bricks and simplify the joining of the floor surface and the side walls of the foundation.
- On top of the sand, a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is poured and also compacted well.
- The next step is to install a reinforcing grid made of metal wire or finished mesh at the bottom of the pit. The lattice elements are connected to each other by means of a wire twist.
Foundation reinforcement - option
- The first layer of mortar is poured into the prepared foundation pit. It can consist of rubble, sand and cement- 1: 2: 1 or gravel and cement 3: 1. This layer should occupy about ⅓ of the space to be filled.
- After pouring the first layer, immediately knead and pour the second one, consisting of sand and cement in proportions of 3: 1.
The second layer is poured to such a height that 50 mm remain to the top, which is required for the upper leveling layer of the foundation.
If necessary, for the top layer of concrete, the formwork can be expanded, and then a reinforcing mesh with cells of 70 ÷ 80 mm can be laid on top of the poured mortar.
- Then the last top layer of the mortar is poured and leveled using the rule.
The foundation is left to cure the concrete for 27-30 days. It is advisable to moisten it daily with water and then cover it with plastic wrap - this will help make the concrete more solid and durable.
After removing the formwork, two or three layers of roofing material are laid on the finished foundation, which will protect the brickwork of the furnace from capillary moisture coming from the ground or from the underground.
After that, you can proceed to the main work - laying the stove.
Several recommendations for carrying out masonry work
- Before starting the brick laying on the mortar, the entire structure rises dry from the brick, but each of the rows must be laid out strictly in accordance with the ordering scheme.
Experienced stove-makers advise to carry out preliminary laying dry to all the craftsmen who take up the construction of the stove for the first time. This event is necessary in order to understand the location of all internal channels and not make gross mistakes when adjusting the bricks in each of the rows.
To carry out the masonry dry, you need to stock up on wooden slats, which will determine the thickness of the seam between the bricks. Usually their thickness is 5-7 mm. The same rail will need to be used for the main laying, already carried out with mortar. Such "calibration" of the seam thickness is especially necessary if the laying is done "under the jointing", and must be flawless.
This process is carried out slowly, thoughtfully, since it is very important to understand how the smoke will be removed from the firebox and how it will get into the chimney.
- Having lifted the structure dry before laying the pipe, it is carefully disassembled. If the bricks were adjusted in size at the same time, then each row can be folded into a separate pile by placing the number of the row and the place in it on the bricks with a marker.
- Performing the main masonry, each of the rows is also first laid out dry, and then, after carefully fitting all the parts, it is mounted on the mortar.
- When the main laying will be done, two measuring strips are placed on the edges of the previous row to maintain the exact thickness of the seam. Then the solution is applied in a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm. A brick is laid on top of the mortar, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer until the brick rests against the measuring rail. The excess protruding solution is picked up with a trowel.
- The slats are pulled out of the masonry after installing the third to fourth row above them, and then used again. Therefore, you need to prepare several pairs of these auxiliary elements.
- Having pulled out the slats, the seams are carefully filled with mortar and immediately "embroidered".
- Carrying out the masonry on the mortar, each of the rows is checked using the building level for compliance with the horizontal and vertical planes.
Compliance with these nuances will help to simplify the process of erecting any furnace, to avoid "fatal" mistakes that can lead to the need to redo the entire work.
Heating and cooking oven with a drying chamber designed by Yu. Proskurin
As mentioned above, there are a large number of different oven models. In this publication, one of the compact and functional options will be considered, which can be installed in a small house, since it does not take up much space, but is capable of heating a room with an area of 16 ÷ 17 m².
The design of the Yu. Proskurin oven is a double-turn heating and cooking version, equipped with a single-burner stove and a drying chamber designed for drying vegetables and fruits, medicinal herbs, mushrooms, etc.
If desired, an oven box of a suitable size can be installed in the niche of the drying chamber.
The furnace has dimensions (excluding the height of the chimney) 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. Its heat transfer is 1700 kcal / h. The design provides for two operating modes - summer and winter, which is very important both for saving fuel and for the ability to heat the stove and cook food, without heating the whole constructions in the summer.
List of required materials
In order to build such a heating structure, you will need the following materials:
| Name of materials and elements | Quantity (pcs.) | Element dimensions (mm) |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying) | 281 ÷ 285 | - |
| Fireclay brick, refractory grade Ш-8 | 82 ÷ 85 | - |
| Furnace door | 1 | 210 × 250 |
| Doors for cleaning channels | 2 | 140 × 140 |
| Blower door | 1 | 140 × 250 |
| Summer gate valve for chimney | 1 | 130 × 130 |
| Firebox shutter | 1 | 130 × 130 |
| Hob latch | 1 | 130 × 130 |
| Grate | 1 | 200 × 300 |
| Single-burner hob | 1 | 410 × 340 |
| Steel strip | 1 | 40 × 260 × 5 |
| 1 | 40 × 350 × 5 | |
| 1 | 40 × 360 × 5 | |
| Steel corner | 1 | 40 × 40 × 635 |
| 3 | 40 × 40 × 510 | |
| 4 | 40 × 40 × 350 | |
| Roofing iron | 1 | 380 × 310 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 1 | 500 × 700 |
In addition, for work you will need clay, sand, cement, crushed stone, gravel, marl and an oven box, if it is decided, instead of a drying niche, install an oven.
Scheme-order of the construction of a furnace designed by Yu. Proskurin
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation being performed |
|---|---|
 | The first row is laid out with a solid plane, observing the location of the bricks. It is very important to put this row perfectly exactly in all parameters, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. |
 | In the second row, a blower (ash) chamber and the base of two vertical channels are formed. On the same row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are installed. |
 | There are special lugs on the metal doors, into which pieces of steel wire are threaded and twisted - they will then be embedded in the seams between the bricks. Temporarily, until they are fully secured, the doors are propped up with bricks on one or both sides. |
 | On the third row, the formation of the blowing chamber and the lower part of the chamber of the vertical channels continues. At the same time, the installed doors are fixed on both sides. |
 | On the fourth row, the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are completely covered with bricks. The common chamber of vertical channels is divided in two, therefore, instead of one large hole, two are formed, having a length of ⅔ bricks and a width of half a brick. |
 | The fifth row is completely laid out with fireclay bricks. Above the ash chamber, an opening is formed with a seat for the grate. For this, a part of the brick is cut out, from the side with which it should be turned to the hole above the blower chamber. |
 | The grate is also mounted on the same row. It is planted on a clay solution or laid loosely, without solution. A distance of 4-5 mm should remain between it and the brick. |
 | On the sixth row, the formation of the combustion chamber and vertical channels continues. |
 | In addition, a combustion door is installed on the same row, the frame of which must be wrapped or covered with asbestos before installation, which, when the metal is heated, will allow it to expand without stress and damage. |
 | The seventh and eighth rows are laid out according to the order, the formation of the firebox and vertical channels continues on them. |
 | On the ninth row, the furnace door is covered with bricks. Moreover, in order to remove the load from the overlap from the door, the side and third bricks from the edge are grinded from one side and a brick is installed between them, hewn from both sides. |
 | On the tenth row, the fuel chamber and the first vertical channel are combined - this is done so that hot smoke from the firebox is directed exactly into this created hole. For a smooth flow of smoke, the protruding corner of the solid brick enclosing the second vertical channel is cut off. |
 | On the eleventh row, the masonry goes according to the scheme, except that cutouts are made at the edges of the bricks framing the combustion chamber, which will form a recess for mounting a single-burner hob. |
 | Then, on the same row, asbestos strips are laid on the cuts made on bricks, and a slab panel is mounted on them. A steel corner is installed on the side of the brewing niche formation. |
 | The 12th row is laid out from red brick, and in the future, all the masonry comes from it. Two vertical channels are formed again, and a niche is formed around the hob. |
 | The 13th row is laid according to the scheme, but in front of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing the summer-winter valve. After that, a valve is mounted on the clay-sand mortar. |
 | From the 14th to the 17th row, the laying is carried out according to the same principle - the cooking niche and channels are formed. |
 | On the 18th row, steel corners overlap the cooking niche. One of them is mounted on the edge of a niche, the second is at a brick distance from the first, and the third is pressed against the second with the back side. This is done so that it is convenient to lay the next row. |
 | On row 19, the cooking niche is completely covered, with the exception of the formation of the opening of the steam exhaust channel and the place for installing the valve. For this, cutouts are made on the bricks, into which the valve is mounted. |
 | Row 20 is laid out according to the scheme. The formation of two vertical channels and a steam outlet continues on it. Moreover, if you look closely, you can see that one of the bricks forming the first vertical channel is shrinking. |
 | On row 21, the first vertical channel and the steam exhaust channel are combined with the help of the hollow space left. In this row, almost all bricks are placed only along the walls of the perimeter of the structure. Only the second vertical channel is fenced off. |
 | In the same row, the formed cavity is overlapped by metal strips, which are laid according to the diagram shown in the figure. |
 | Further, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the steel strips, with the help of which a chimney hole is arranged, located on the opposite side of the steam exhaust hole. |
 | On the 22nd row, laying is done on top of the roofing sheet. A chimney hole and two vertical duct holes are left. In the place where the drying niche will be formed, a piece of corner is laid, which will protect the brick at the edge of the chamber from damage and make the edge of the niche more neat. |
 | 23rd row - a drying chamber is formed, and its rear wall is made of bricks installed on its side. He will isolate the chamber from the opening of the chimney. |
 | On the 24th row, the walls of the drying chamber, chimney and two vertical channels are formed. |
 | 25 row - work continues according to the scheme. The second brick of the rear wall of the chamber is installed in the same way as the first one. |
 | On the 26th row, preparations are underway to combine the two vertical channels, so the internal bricks in both holes are grinded at a slight angle. |
 | 27 row - the first and second channels are combined with masonry. A common cleaning door is installed for them. The rest of the work follows the scheme. |
 | On the 28th row, the drying chamber is overlapped with three pieces of corners according to the same principle as the overlapping of the cooking niche was done. The vertical channels are combined into one wide one, and the cleaning door is fixed with side bricks. |
 | On the 29th row, the drying chamber and vertical channels are completely blocked. The opening of the chimney channel is left, which is lined with bricks with cut out mounting slots for the chimney valve. After laying the row, a frame with a latch is installed on the clay-sand mortar. |
 | On the 30th row, the entire surface of the oven is completely covered. Only the chimney hole is left, which should be half a brick in size. |
 | Row 31-32 - the formation of the chimney begins. |
This figure shows a sectional view of the oven. The diagram shows well all the internal channels through which the heated air will circulate.
Once upon a time, classic brick ovens for a house were its obligatory attribute and the only way to heat it. Professional stove makers were in demand and respected. Today, there are many new space heating products that operate on a variety of energy sources, from solid fuels to electricity. However, good stove-makers remain in demand and the online request for "brick ovens for the house, drawings with orders" remains frequent.
Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because of the remoteness of housing, which is why there is no alternative. Different types of ovens can perform a heating function; some models can cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and pre-fabricated. Some plan before building a house, while others need to fit into an existing room. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are erected to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be built of high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with the existing SNiP. In the vastness of the Internet, you can find any drawings with orders, but you need to understand that it will not be so easy to build a stove for a house with your own hands.
Why does the brick oven remain competitive, more and more are being built, so many advantages?
It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to use, and according to manufacturers, they have a higher efficiency (efficiency). But why brick is still in demand in some areas or buildings. One of the reasons is that the brick stove "breathes".
This means that when the oven heats up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. When it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Due to this, it maintains a normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that "a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house."
The ability of a brick oven to "breathe" not only has a positive effect on human health, but will also make it possible to feel comfort even at a non-everyday level. With the heat engineering calculation of the house, the temperature indicators during the heating season are set in the range of 18-20 Celsius. At the same time, the air humidity should be optimal for health. The oven for the home provides optimal air humidity at a heating temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort, clothes, bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive humidity can be felt.
For hot water heating, the optimal temperature range is 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters, the temperature should be even higher (since they dry the air a lot). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency of about 50% will be more profitable in terms of economy than modern systems with indicators of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat at home depends on the temperature difference inside and outside the room.
Selecting the size of the oven surface
Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to select the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).
When choosing a place for its placement, you should know that the side surfaces of the furnace have the greatest heat transfer. This factor is decisive when choosing a place.
Different models have a variety of forms:
- Rectangular;
- In the form of the letter T;
- With a stove bench or kitchen equipment for cooking.
They can serve as a heater for living rooms, or be a space divider.
For a small house space, you should not choose too massive structures, even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. A lot of fuel is needed to warm up the entire furnace, and the heat transfer will be too great.
The location of the stove in relation to living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the whole house is also a criterion.
Furnace size table, taking into account the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe room
The structure of the stove for the house, stoves for the house of the classic scheme
The oven consists of 3 main parts. Stove body, foundation and chimney opening onto the roof.
Furnace diagram example: 
The oven consists of:
- Foundations - foundation;
- Waterproofing material;
- Shantsy. They are holes, they are made so that you create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as “legs” in the structure;
- Blown;
- The opening of the air channel, contributes to the heating of the room along the entire height;
- Blower door;
- Grate grate;
- Ignition part door;
- Furnace part;
- Furnace vault;
- "Haylo" (Sometimes the vertical part of the firebox with a nozzle is called hail);
- Cleaning door;
- Stranglethorn pass;
- Strangler;
- Gate valves regulating the direction of travel;
- Convection channel;
- A valve that closes the chimney after heating the furnace. Close after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
- Strangler exit door;
- Chimney hole;
- Overlap (upper part of the oven);
- Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
- Overlapping;
- Roof chimney (otter or fluff).
Foundation
The foundation for the stove is made separately from the general foundation of the house. A conventional reinforced concrete strip foundation is used. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. Asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (preferably cast iron, but it is very expensive, ordinary roofing metal will do), and covered with felt on top. The felt litter is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after that they start laying. By itself, the litter is needed so that the foundation does not take on all the thermal energy of the furnace. In simple words, "so that the heat does not go into the ground."Masonry base
The base of the masonry is performed in oblique shading from a simple red brick, on a cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The furnace part is laid out of red ceramic bricks, in combination with refractory (chamotte) material. As a clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of chamotte) is used.
A sheet of metal and asbestos is laid in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. Removal of a metal sheet at least 250 mm. The edges are tucked up, knocking to the floor.
Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out, and does not set. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter), the solution becomes soaked. For this reason, some part of the furnace that does not experience high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.
To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to clean the soot from the lower channels.
Chimney
It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such a brick is cheaper than fireclay, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). Cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thus gives less heat load to the floor.
The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions, is a side for precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.
Place for a stove in the house
The effective operation of the oven will depend on the location of the oven. The best location would be to cross all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering the outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.
Factors to consider:
- The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for proper operation and the possibility of complete cleaning.
- The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, as its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
- The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This must be calculated when building a house or when laying a foundation for a stove.
- In front of the furnace door, there must be a flooring that can withstand fire. (sheet of metal or ceramic tiles) to prevent accidental fires.
Do-it-yourself equipment and building materials for building a furnace
Brick
There are sources on the Internet claiming that brick for stoves and refractory are one and the same. In fact, they have only linear dimensions in common. The dimensions of an ordinary single building brick are 250 by 125 by 65 mm, and a standard oven brick has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes 230 x 114 x 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, special high-quality bricks of grade 150 are used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. The entire furnace could be built from it, but it cools down quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.
Fireclay bricks are used for laying the furnace channels in the furnace section. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish ovens or in sauna ovens. It is able to withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens, this temperature does not exist. It is appreciated for its other qualities - the ability to keep warm for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire furnace body from it, since it is very expensive and has weak strength.
To distinguish high-quality chamotte from low-quality, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since chamotte can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality chamotte is the fineness of the brick. Another way to check is to check for sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not muffled. The last way to determine the quality of a material is radical. Break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay breaks into large pieces.
As a substitute for expensive chamotte, sometimes clinker bricks are used in furnace construction. It is the same de red ceramic, only it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.
Silicate white is not suitable for any part. It is not resistant to heat stress and absorbs moisture too much.
Sand
As sand in the cement-sand mortar, quarry sand of the middle fraction is used. It is sieved through a sieve to filter out large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heating, because of which the masonry will crack and begin to crumble.
Masonry mortar
For laying the stove, you will have to use several types of mortar based on:
- Cement;
- Lime;
- Clays;
- Chamotte.
It is characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. Such a solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land, having previously cleaned it. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries on exposure to high temperatures, but gets wet on exposure to moisture. The masonry of the stove can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you cannot lay the foundation on such a solution.
A mixture of clay with the addition of chamotte is used in the furnace parts. Such a solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.
The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is strong enough, but only withstands 450 degrees Celsius.
Cement-limestone is even stronger than conventional limestone, but the refractoriness is further reduced. They are used in the foundation.
Cement-sand mortar is used for laying the chimney. It has the best indicators of strength and resistance to atmospheric precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not let smoke through and dig into the room and will provide good traction for the firebox.
Brick oven projects examples
Furnace for giving
The average size of a country house is about 15-20 square meters. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove measuring 2 meters by 3 meters and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the furnace part is made of refractory bricks, and the whole body is erected from ceramic red.
The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design
Every beginner can easily make such a simple option out of bricks with his own hands, even without making mistakes.
Scheme with order, ordinal instruction
Despite its small size and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.
The thickness of the joint for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the joint between refractory bricks should be half as much.
It is better not to change the blueprint if you have no experience.
For such a stove, the chimney is laid in the brick floor.
Amount of material:
You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, a door for the furnace, blower and cleaning. Two smoke dampers. A sheet of metal on the foundation. For waterproofing about 3 meters of roofing material.
The number of bricks is approximate, as there will be a certain percentage of brick breakage.
Russian stove
Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. It has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and there is a stove bench in its design. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main drawback is the design feature, due to which it heats up only the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.
What it consists of:
- A) baking part;
- B) niche;
- B) six;
- D) horn;
- E) the stuffy part;
- E) shield;
- G) gate valve;
- H) chimney pipe;
- I) Repainting the crucible.
Large, small and medium-sized ovens are erected by their size. Consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.
Necessary materials:
Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The mortar from the clay will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).
Order of the Russian stove:
Row number 1 is laid out of solid ceramic bricks, on a lime mortar with the addition of cement. The sub-baking part is being formed;
Row No. 2 to No. 4, a well is laid out. All sutures are tied. On the one hand, leave room for baking;
Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the firing;
Rows No. 8 to No. 10 a vault castle is being erected;
Row number 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the baking oven;
Row number 12 is laid out "under". It is made of special bricks;
Row 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;
Rows number 14 to 16 are made in the same way as the previous one;
Row number 17 establish the vaults of the mouths;
Row No. 18 - laying of the furnace walls;
Row No. 19 of the vault wall;
Row number 20 with the help of halves of bricks narrow the hole above the pole;
Row # 21 line the walls;
Row No. 22 stage of alignment and reduction of the front-pipe part;
Row number 23 lay out a samovar;
Rows from No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view gate valves;
Row number 32 chimney masonry. In a Russian stove, a chimney is placed in 2 bricks.
Some features can be seen in Fig.
Before tackling the laying of stoves, it is worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar in order to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make the oven with their own hands.
Video
In the proposed video, you can see the order of the heating furnace:
A simple brick oven is required if indoors constant temperature and humidity must be maintained.
The stone from which it is folded, when heated, gives off water vapor into the air, and when it cools, it takes them away. Thus, the humidity remains at approximately the same level.
In addition, it allows the indoor temperature to be maintained at 18-20 ° C, which is optimal for medical reasons.
Scheme of the simplest brick oven for a summer residence and a house
Heating stone stove in general form looks like this:
- Placed below floor level foundation on which the insulation is laid.
- Trenches are installed on the floor - legs, providing warming up of the lower part.
- Directly above them is located blower, as well as a strangler. It is needed for uniform heating in height.
- It is separated from the main room by blower door.
- Directly above it is located firebox... It fits on its bottom grate, which is also the vault of the blower.
- Directly above the firebox door is located firebox vault, behind which is hailo or mouth.
- Above start cleaning, pass and convectors.
- Above the cleaning are located two valves.
- Almost at the very top there are strangler outlet into the room, smoke channel and overlap.
- The chimney separates from the ceiling internal cutting.
- At the very top is located chimney mouth.
How to fold the simplest brick stove with your own hands, ordering the device
First of all, you need to decide on the shape of the oven. There are several criteria by which you can do this:
- Correspondence of the size of the furnace to the area of the room - the side walls give off more heat at the front wall, this indicator 3-4 times less.
- One of the most effective solutions is T-shaped oven- it can heat up to four small rooms.
Photo 1. A variant of the ordering of a simple brick stove for heating houses. Contains 21 rows.
- Correct location - part of this follows from the first paragraph. So, if the stove will serve not only for heating, but also for cooking, then it is better to place the mouth of the hob on the side of the kitchen, and direct the side walls to the living rooms.
- It is not worth making large stoves for small rooms - the efficiency of a structure does not depend on its size, but from the internal structure. Cap ovens work well.
- In order to avoid unnecessary fuel consumption and maintain the temperature in the room, it is advisable to insulate the walls.
There are several rules oven masonry:
- The seams in the entire structure, with the exception of the firebox, must have a width 3 mm with deviations up to 2 and up to 5 mm down and up, respectively. The width of the seams for the firebox - 13 mm.
- The width of the joints between materials with different expansion rates is 5 mm. This is true for ceramics - fireclay or steel - concrete joints.
- Each seam of the masonry is overlapped by a neighboring brick for at least a quarter of the length of the latter.
- You need to lay bricks starting from the corners. The verticality is checked with a level or plumb line. To do this (in the first case), a nail is driven into the ceiling and a load is tied on a string. The other end is secured at the seams. They are guided by the string later.
- Doors and flaps are fixed with wire, and in highly heated compartments (for example, an oven) - with a steel strip 25x2 mm.
The following types of bricks are used for masonry:
- Red ceramic- for the lower part of the furnace and sections of the chimney with a temperature no more than 80 ° C.
Photo 2. Ceramic bricks used for laying the outer sides of the heating stove.
- Furnace ceramic- for the firebox.
- Chamotny- they lay out the inner surface of the firebox. Such a brick is able to withstand up to 1600 ° C and is also a good conductor and heat accumulator.
Instruments:
- Pickaxe hammer - may be required if you have to cut bricks.
- Trowels - for bonding bricks.
- Rubber hammer - for leveling masonry.
- Painting cord - for marking.
- Plummet - for vertical alignment.
- Laser level - optional.
- The building rule is for aligning the evenness of the walls.
- Level - control when aligning horizontally.
You may also need:
- Solution container.
- Joints for the design of seams.
- Drill with a mixer (instead of a drill).
- Roulette, pencil.
- Grinder and chisel.
- Safety glasses and gloves.
Masonry process
- Foundation- any brick is used, even crushed stone is suitable. The base layer is filled with cement and leveled.
- Furnace body- horizontally, the markup is repelled from the wall of the room. For masonry, oven mortar is used. Each row is leveled with a level. On the place where the fireplace is planned to be placed, a grate is placed.
- For fire safety purposes, the wall adjacent to the wall of the house, reinforced with additional bricks. Where there will be a chimney, an empty space is left, the rest is laid completely. At the same stage, the ash removal door is installed.
- The door is fixed to the mortar and leveled... For additional stability, it is fixed with a wire laid between the bricks.
- 3 more rows are laid, then an emphasis is placed for the lattice - two more rows in a quarter of a brick.
- On fireclay bricks the lattice fits.
- Mounted next to the grille large door.
- The installation of the door is carried out in the same way as the small one.
- The first row of the firebox is placed above the fireplace. It is reinforced with metal corners or tin, and slots of the required dimensions are made in the bricks.
- The next row is laid. Along with it on fireclay bricks - another grate.
- The door is fixed and the brick fits exactly under it.
- Above the firebox is placed another layer of chamotte.
- Chimney- the place left for it is broken into wells and reinforced with metal plates.
- Stacked chimney wells.
- Above the firebox are placed doors for removing soot.
- The wells divide again. It won't hurt to reinforce them with metal strips.
- On the body of the stove, excluding the chimney space, the ceiling is put.
- Under construction body cornice and chimneys.
- The last division of the wells is covered with a sheet of tin; to compensate for the internal pressure, two more rows of bricks are laid on it.
- Placed on the valve for each chimney.
- Installed waterproofing, and the chimney is amplified once more.
- A hole for the chimney is cut out in the roof.
- The chimney is reinforced again and the minimum is removed half a meter above the roof level but not lower than the ridge height.
Attention! Areas exposed to the greatest thermal stress are laid out exclusively fireclay bricks(other species may crack from heat).