How is the sealing of the seams of a wooden house carried out? Which is better - caulking or a warm seam for a wooden house? Insulation of seams of a wooden house from a log

Shrinkage processes occurring in a wooden structure during the first years after construction inevitably lead to the formation of cracks. Previously, there was only one way to insulate a log house - caulking. Today, many owners of wooden houses prefer a more modern method of thermal insulation using the “warm seam” technology to traditional caulking. This technique allows you to qualitatively and quickly isolate the cracks formed in the inter-row seams of the logs during the shrinkage of the log house. Usually, for this work, specialists are hired who competently and professionally perform sealing. In this review, you will find practical recommendations on how to correctly make a warm seam for wooden houses with your own hands, as well as find out what typical mistakes are most often made by non-professional craftsmen.

There are several types of sealants that can be used to insulate inter-joint seams and crevices:

  • acrylic;
  • silicone;
  • polyurethane;
  • bituminous.

The most popular of the types presented is acrylic composition. Among its advantages are:

  • elasticity;
  • good adhesion;
  • moisture resistance;
  • biostability;
  • color fastness;
  • simplicity and ease of application.

A silicone-based sealant withstands high temperatures and humidity well, which is why it is often used to seal crevices in baths and saunas.

The polyurethane composition also has decent characteristics, but due to the fact that it contains toxic components, it can only be used for external insulation.

Bituminous mastics have a very high degree of moisture resistance, so they are usually used to seal the dampest places: basements, basements and roofs.

More detailed characteristics of acrylic and other types of sealants can be found in the article.

Types of packaging

The sealant is produced:

  1. In cartridges. Such packaging is intended for use in special construction guns.
  2. In tubes. The mass is squeezed out of the tube directly onto the seam, and then it is given the desired shape with a chisel. Leveling is performed within 10 minutes after application, otherwise the sealant will polymerize and it will be quite difficult to fix the hardened form.
  3. In plastic buckets. In this case, the sealant is applied with a spatula.

Log houses and log houses can be insulated no earlier than 1-2 years after construction. The exception is houses made of laminated veneer lumber, which can be sealed almost immediately after construction.

To achieve the maximum effect, it is advisable to seal it outside and inside the house. However, only external thermal insulation of the seams is also allowed.

The sealant can only be applied in dry weather at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees Celsius.

If work is carried out in summer in hot sunny weather, the shade side is sealed first. When the sun is active, the sealant dries quickly, which is undesirable, since the technology is disrupted.

When applying sealant to a previously painted surface, it is necessary to first test for adhesion with a dye on a small area.

Sealing instructions

Effective insulation can only be obtained with strict adherence to the technology. Sealing includes several mandatory steps that must be performed in strict sequence.

Required tools

To complete the work, in addition to the sealant, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • putty knife;
  • construction gun;
  • primer for wood impregnation;
  • polyethylene cord for sealing wide gaps;
  • an aqueous solution to moisten the spatula blade when leveling the seam;
  • brushes;
  • masking tape.

Preparatory operations

The walls of the log house must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. If the sealant is to be applied to a new home, the old paintwork must be removed. If the seams were previously smoked, you need to remove the old caulk.

To improve adhesion, the surface to be treated is primed before sealing. The primer is made from a 10: 1 mixture of water and sealant. Then a brush or rag is moistened in the resulting solution and the joints of the logs are wiped. After all the preparatory measures, the surface must be well dried.

Preparation is an important step in sealing. An insufficiently cleaned surface interferes with adhesion, the sealant will lie unevenly and lag behind the walls.

It should be noted that wood preservative is carried out after applying the sealant. Antiseptic compounds dramatically reduce the adhesion of materials.

Sealant application

  1. To prevent the composition from getting on areas that are outside the application area, masking tape can be glued to the side edges of the logs. Usually this operation is done when the work is done by non-professionals. Experts apply sealant without scotch tape exactly to the required places, covering an area of ​​1.5-2 m in one pass, but this accuracy comes with experience.
  2. In the gap between the seams between the joints, a sealing polyethylene cord is laid with a chisel, which tightly fills the openings and at the same time serves to save sealant.
  3. A warm seam is applied with a pistol to the joints of the logs. It should grip the surface of the logs 0.5-1 cm on each side.
  4. Then the seam is slightly sprayed with water and leveled with a spatula, while removing excess sealant.
  5. After that, the final alignment is performed. To do this, use a brush slightly moistened with water.
  6. Then, thoroughly wipe with a rag on both sides of the warm seam, removing the stains left after the water. If this is not done right away, the stains will harden and then it will be quite problematic to remove them.
  7. After the end of the work, the scotch tape is removed.

It takes two weeks for the sealant to dry completely, after which it can be coated with paints and varnishes. When using an acrylic compound, an acrylic colorant must also be used.

Self-sealing errors

Non-professional craftsmen, when sealing the inter-crown seams of a log house on their own, inevitably face problems. To do the job yourself correctly, you need to know certain subtleties and nuances.

Among the typical mistakes that untrained masters most often make, one can single out:

  1. Wrong choice of sealant.
  2. Performing work under inappropriate weather conditions.
  3. Violation of work technology.
  4. Poor surface preparation, as a result of which the sealant does not fit well and lags behind the tree.
  5. Careless application of the compound, which makes a warm seam look rough and sloppy.

In order for a warm seam to be made with high quality and neatness, and to serve you for many years, contact the professionals.

The company "Mater Srubov" has many years of experience in insulating houses from a bar and logs using the "warm seam" technology. Quality indicators are the main priorities in our work. We employ highly qualified experienced craftsmen. Our company has established a two-level system for checking the conscientiousness and quality of work performed, which is carried out by the construction supervision department and the quality control department.

By entrusting us with sealing your home, you can be sure of an excellent result. You can contact us using the coordinates on the page.

And everything would be fine, yeah "In a barrel of honey, there is a fly in the ointment" ... And it is environmentally friendly, it is beautiful, and even warm. But, here are the seams ... Indeed, seams are a weak point in a wooden house. We have already spoken separately. But, recently, the technology of a warm seam for wooden houses made by hand has been increasingly used. What is her role? Here's what experts from one company say:

« Correct insulation of a log house begins with caulking. Sealant is not a replacement for it, but only a good addition. The insulation must be laid flush, Waltherm must be laid, and then the sealing must be done.... The goal in isolation is to fill the entire space between the crowns. But, it's important to get it right. The sealant should not come into contact with the insulation. Otherwise, over time, it will crack. "

.

So, we have several questions, and the first one is: what is the Warm seam technology?

The usual methods of thermal insulation of seams in a wooden house have 3 significant disadvantages:

  • They let moisture and insects into the room;
  • Requires regular replacement;
  • Pulls apart by birds.

How to improve the insulation system of the interventsovo space? For this, the "Warm seam" system has been developed.

Its essence is that a special sealant is applied over the insulation and a special cord at the junction of the logs. It smoothes out beautifully and becomes invisible after painting (even colorless). However, it protects the seams well from blowing and moisture.

Materials Required and Sealant Selection

How much and what is needed to carry out such work with your own hands? Taking into account the above quote, we will take into account that the initial insulation of the seams has already been made. And that means from the materials we need:

  • Acrylic sealant for wood;
  • Heat insulating cord.

From tools:

  • Pistol (manual, but pneumatic is better);
  • 2 spatulas (small - for the size of the seam and large for the convenience of removing excess from the first);
  • Brush (to remove excess);
  • Possibly: sponge and spray bottle (water spray)

“If you work at large volumes (from 200 meters) use a pneumatic gun. The hand will get tired much less. "

Arkady Krasnov, "Siberian Wooden Houses".

Now all that remains is to choose a sealant. Primarily, the sealant can be sold in buckets, usually 15-25 kg and 600 ml tubes.

As you probably guessed, it is always cheaper to buy in large volumes.

As with Coca-Cola - the larger the bottle, the lower the price per liter.

Although, using buckets is not so convenient during work, and, naturally, takes longer.

The sealant also differs in color, you need to choose the one suitable for painting.

  • Eurotex;
  • Neomid;
  • Remmers.

There are many more options, but most people choose one of the three above. As usual, American or German in quality and price are higher than domestic ones.

Price

As already said, the tuba is more expensive. One 600 ml tube is enough, on average, for 4-6 running meters. It depends, of course, on the thickness and unevenness of the seam, as well as the experience of the finisher. The cost of a tube of German Remmers, for example, is 430 rubles. In this case, in the best case scenario, the cost of 1 meter of seam will be 72 rubles. A 25 kg Eurotex bucket costs about 7,300 rubles. When using such a sealant, the cost of one meter will be 28 rubles.

By the way, a warm seam for a wooden house can be ordered from a contractor. However, the price of such a service will cost 150-170 rubles per running meter. For a day, a beginner specialist can do 50-200 meters. (Much depends on the size / evenness of the seams and personal abilities).

If you decide to apply it yourself or check the masters "for lice", the technology of applying the sealant is described below.

Application technology

The technology, in fact, consists of 6 main stages:

  • Laying the heat-insulating cord. Its task is to fill the space between the crowns. It is pointless to use a more expensive sealant for this, and it is quite problematic to fill the space with it. It is reasonable to use the sealant as the top, fixing layer.

  • Application of the sealant with a pistol. For this purpose, the tube is inserted into the cavity of the pistol (or the sealant is drawn directly from the bucket). After that, the nose is cut off at 45 degrees, to the size of the seam. Then the sealant is applied as a polyurethane foam. Some installers use scotch tape to adhere to the edges of the seam. This allows you not to stain the timber, and after application, collect the excess. After application, the tape comes off almost immediately. However, after gaining experience, you are unlikely to need such a procedure. Professionals apply "Warm seam" without adhesive tape for the footage from 1.5 to 2 m in one pass and very evenly.

  • If excess sealant gets on the rings, immediately remove them with a damp cloth.
  • Dampen a small brush and smooth out the seam layer with it.

  • If there is a lot of excess, a small spatula can be used to remove it.

  • Now all that remains is to walk along the seam with a slightly damp cloth for final alignment.

Some people use a sponge and spray for this purpose. In this case, the seam becomes glossy.

Corners and cuts

The difficulty, especially in the first experiment, is the corners and cuttings. In fact, sealing of such areas is carried out in the same way as smooth seams.

  • Measure and cut in advance pieces of the cord of the desired length;
  • Lay the cord (you can use a putty knife or brush to tuck it in);
  • Apply sealant;
  • Carry out the alignment procedure described above.

You can see that in general, the application process is not particularly difficult. Although, making a warm seam for wooden houses is a very tedious job. So please be patient and / or a reliable "Russian way".

Below in a series of photos you can see the whole process step by step.

And a video with step-by-step instructions:

Technology FAQ

Will the sealant be useful if it is applied to already sealed seams?

Certainly. The answer has already been given at the beginning of the article. Correct application of a warm seam also involves caulking, laying Valiterm and the cord. However, it is important that the insulation does not come into contact with the sealant.

Remove smudges immediately after leveling or after drying?

So that there are no traces left, it is better to remove it immediately, but carefully so as not to touch the sealant.
Which sealing should you choose, inside or outside?

In short, both types are needed. Outdoor, will protect the house from moisture, insects and blowing. External sealing also serves as waterproofing. However, you need to protect the seams on the inside as well. For example, from moisture formed in the room itself.

Can it be applied in winter?

It depends on the type of sealant. For example, Accent-136 can be used at temperatures from -10 degrees. There are also more "thermophilic" analogs.

Therma-Chink- professional acrylic sealant "warm seam" for a wooden house with excellent adhesion to wood, brick, plaster, natural stone, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, PVC, metal (tin, galvanized), etc.

Application area

The "warm seam" for wood is used for long-term sealing of inter-log seams of wooden houses, rounded logs and beams, as well as for sealing end and side cracks in wood and sealing seams and joints of various structures made of wood inside and outside of all types of buildings and structures. The sealant is a ready-to-use material. After curing, it forms an elastic rubber-like material.

Properties and features

  • has no smell;
  • has high elasticity;
  • provides effective thermal insulation at home;
  • resistant to atmospheric influences, incl. to ultraviolet radiation;
  • has a high vapor permeability;
  • surface painting is possible, as well as tinting of the material;
  • can be applied to damp, but not wet, surfaces;
  • Sealant "Warm seam" can be applied to horizontal, vertical, inclined surfaces with positive and negative angles of inclination;
  • long-term sealing of joints in building structures with a deformability of 25%.

You can buy a "warm seam" for a wooden house in Moscow from the OLIVA manufacturing plant by placing an order on the website or by contacting by phone 8-495-651-6574.

Consumption

Approximate mass consumption is calculated by the formula:
Mp = btV (kg / r.m.), where: b- joint width (m), t- thickness of the sealant layer (m), V- specific weight (1350 kg / m 3)

Specifications

Consistency Thixotropic paste (non-pourable)
Compound Water dispersion of polymer, modifying additives, pigment, filler.
Drying time, h Time of formation of a surface film - 1 hour
Solidification time, h No more than 24 hours at a thickness of 2 mm
Elongation at break at 20 ° C,% Not less than 700%
Density, kg / l 1.35 kg / l
Tensile strength at uniform separation, kg / cm² Not less than 10
Predicted service life At least 30 years old
Recommended application temperature, ° С from + 5 ° С to + 35 ° С
Resistance to vapor permeation 0.25-0.3 m2 h Pa / mg
Dry residue,% Not less than 72%
Operating temperature, ° С from -40 ° С to + 80 ° С
Technical conditions (TU) 2257-001-13344853-14
Tinting Standard colors: white, gray, larch, pine, golden pine, oak, walnut, rosewood, honey, teak. Tinting in other colors is possible.
Shelf life, months 24 months

Surface preparation

Clean surfaces from dirt, dust, grease, loose particles, cement mortar residues, residues of previously used sealing materials, impregnations, varnishes and glazing compounds, etc.

When working in winter, clean the surface from ice and frost. It is possible to apply the sealant to both dry and damp surfaces. The presence of dripping moisture on the surface is unacceptable!

DO NOT apply sealant when it is raining or snowing! In hot weather with low air humidity, surfaces can strongly absorb moisture, in which case it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water using a spray gun.

Application method

The sealant is applied to the prepared surface with a spatula or special hand or pneumatic guns. Voids and leaks are unacceptable. Recommended thickness of the sealant layer is from 2 to 3.5 mm. The surfaces of the applied sealant are given the required shape using special templates. Use soapy water to prevent the sealant from sticking to the tool. To improve the appearance of the joint, it is recommended to limit the edges of the joint with masking tape before applying the sealant, and after applying the sealant (after 30-40 minutes) remove the adhesive tape.

Drying time

Time of formation of a surface film is 1 hour (at + 23 ° С and humidity 60%). Curing time at a layer thickness of 5 mm 24 hours (at + 23 ° C and humidity 60%)

Tool cleaning

In an uncured state, it can be washed off with warm water. In a vulcanized state, it is removed mechanically.

Storage

In a tightly closed container at temperatures from + 4 ° C to + 40 ° C. Transportation and storage at low temperatures is possible. For frost-resistant sealant, up to 7 cycles of freezing and defrosting (cycle - no more than 1 day) are allowed at temperatures up to -18 ° C, or a single freeze up to -18 ° C, but for a period of no more than 7 days. Defrosting is carried out without additional heating at temperatures up to + 22 ° C. Keep out of the reach of children. Expiration date 24 months from the date of manufacture.

Development of technology for sealing walls of panel-type houses

The first large-panel housing construction appeared in Europe in the 20s of the last century, the speed and cheapness of construction made this type of construction especially widespread in the socialist countries by the 60s and 70s. The massive development of Soviet cities and towns with a series of large-panel houses made of materials produced by numerous house-building factories, despite all the aesthetic and architectural shortcomings of this development, made it possible for millions of families to improve their living conditions. There are no analogues in the world of such a large-scale construction of sufficiently comfortable and modern housing; from a predominantly agrarian and peasant country, the USSR in a short time turned into a power with a significant predominance of the urban population. The technology "Warm seam" in Western countries is used mainly in the construction of wooden buildings, in Russia a warm seam is more often a technology for repairing and sealing the seams of interpanel joints in panel buildings. A warm seam can significantly improve the performance of buildings even in the Russian climate. In the Moscow region, it is widely used by the Directorates of the Single Customer (DEZ), as a type of repair sealing during routine and overhaul of joints.

Causes and consequences of the destruction of interpanel seams

During the erection of the building, the interpanel joints are sealed and protected, but in the first few years of operation of the building, the inevitable shrinkage of the wall panels occurs, the panels shift with uneven settlement of individual parts. The size of these deformations is about 30 - 35% of the deformations that are caused by thermal influences, which also inevitably produce an adverse effect on the sealant. Stretching-compression from temperature fluctuations and changes in air humidity is not the only unfavorable factor; environmental factors such as icing, "acid rain", UV irradiation affect the sealant at the panel joint. In central Russia, the total disclosure of sealants at the joints of panels is 4.5 - 5 mm per year. As a result of this natural aging, the average life of a polyurethane sealant before complete loss of performance is no more than 15 years.

The main and most serious problem of panel buildings is the destruction of seams and deformation of interpanel joints, which reduces their service life. The consequences of this are the freezing of the outer panels in winter, and the leakage of the walls during precipitation. A much more unpleasant consequence of the violation of the tightness of the joints is the complete destruction of the enclosing structures of buildings, the reinforcement of the panels connected by means of welding. The metal skeleton of reinforced concrete, according to research results, shows that it rusts by 0.3 mm per year if it is exposed to direct weathering. The danger of spontaneous destruction of any part of the walls, which will lead to an emergency state of the entire building, a real threat to the safety of people in or near the building.

Sealing of interpanel joints using the "Warm seam" technology

Sealing of interpanel joints during repairs takes place mainly from the outside of the structure, does not require resettlement of residents and often does not cause them any inconvenience at all. High-altitude repair work can be performed using scaffolding, aerial platforms, and with the help of industrial climbers. The latter method is often the most optimal, especially since the sealing of interpanel seams by industrial climbers allows work without complex repairs of the entire house, the outer walls of a single apartment can be sealed, .. An industrial climber has considerable freedom in actions at a height, not limited by the fence of the scaffold site or booths, because the quality of their work is usually higher. Sealing works at a height are also resorted to when processing newly installed metal-plastic windows, canopies, balconies, loggias, etc. Industrial mountaineering is a rather dangerous job, an industrial climber must be able to work with climbing equipment, clearly know the methods of insurance and first aid in emergency situations. Persons who have passed the necessary instructions, medical examination and special training are allowed to work, with state certificates from an educational institution licensed by the Ministry of Education. Retraining of industrial climbers takes place at least once every 2 years.

Repair work on the restoration of sealing interpanel joints using the "warm seam" technology starts with processing the joints - they are cleaned with their hands from dirt, paint residues, traces of old sealant, areas that have exfoliated with mortar residues. Then, if necessary, jointing of cracks is carried out and sections of the concrete facade are restored at the points of contact of the outer panels. The procedure of sealing the seams is carried out, since the sealing of the seams, if quality is at the forefront, is possible only at the absolutely dry edge of the joint. A completely and thoroughly cleaned and completely dry joint is filled with a polyurethane heat-shielding sealant. When it hardens, it expands and takes up all the voids. On the not solidified sealant along the entire length of the joint, without gaps and slightly lower relative to the surface of the facade, insulation is laid - a porous or hollow material, and compressed by 15-50%. The final phase of sealing the joints is covering the joint cavity with a special mastic. The mastic will protect the joint from solar radiation. Wide joints may require repeated cavity filling procedures. Sealing and thermal insulation is carried out at temperatures from +35 to -15 ° C. The "warm seam" technology in the construction of wooden buildings is usually limited to only a special sealant, without seals, but in panel structures the use of elastic porous seals is mandatory.

Sealants

Sealants used in the repair of interpanel joints using the "warm seam" method differ in the material of the polymer binding base - either silicone (organosilicon) sealants, or polysulfide (thiokol), acrylic, polyurethane. Silicone sealant hardens on contact with air, it is resistant to temperature extremes and harsh climatic conditions. However, it has low elasticity, is afraid of deformation and often collapses at the point of stress. It is not universal, contains a solvent, and interacts (adheres) in different ways to various building materials. In addition, silicone sealant cannot be painted and its cost is quite high. Acrylic sealants are rarely used when sealing joints from the inside, as they deform when the temperature drops and are afraid of moisture. Polysulfide (thiokol) sealants are used to seal interpanel joints, but they require a special preparation technology, since they are two-component. Polysulfide (thiokol) sealants are weakly resistant to deformation and the seams closed by them "creep" and turn black, which does not decorate the exterior of the building. Thiokol sealant can only be applied at temperatures above -10 ° C. Polyurethane sealants are versatile, durable and elastic, polymerize in air, do not shrink during vulcanization. The consumption of the sealant can be accurately calculated, they stick to any material, and you can work with them under any conditions. Interpanel joints, sealed using the "Warm seam" technology on polyurethane sealant, are durable and of high quality.

Mastics

Light-protective mastics are used to protect polymeric materials from UV radiation. Usually these are two-component cold curing systems on polyurethane. After combining the components, the mastic resembles a creamy paste, easily applied to the sealed joint, and over time, the mastic becomes a mass similar to rubber. The adhesion (ability to stick) of polyurethane mastics to concrete, to cement-sand mortar, to polymer sealants and other materials, metals is very high. The mastic is grasped for a period of 2 to 5 hours, finally elastic (8-9 kg / cm), elastic (600%) and a strong structure is formed in up to 14 days. The polymerization of the mastic takes place due to contact with atmospheric moisture, and therefore the air humidity and water in the joints greatly affect the quality of the sealing. It is advisable to prevent moisture from entering the mastic, this leads to the appearance of bubbles in the structure, since polymerization proceeds with the release of gas, which causes the filling of all cavities of the construction joint with the mastic.

Disadvantages of the "Warm seam" technology

These include the rather high cost of repairs that are carried out manually under difficult and hazardous conditions. Porous insulation using the "warm seam" technology can absorb moisture, which, in turn, will cause destruction of the material. Thorough sealing is not always possible to guarantee, since the insulation can be unevenly distributed in the groove of the seam, and in the future it is impossible to determine the place of the leakage.

Sources, standards

Normative documents: SNiP 3.03.01-87 "Bearing and enclosing structures" (Gosstroy of the USSR 04.12.1987 N 280, changes from 22.05.2003). Temporary safety rules in industrial mountaineering from 09.06.2001, "Interdepartmental Commission for the certification of emergency rescue teams, rescuers and educational institutions for their training"

Links

VSN 54-96 Instructions on the technology of sealing and thermal insulation of joints of panels, window and door blocks using "Macroflex" in residential buildings during renovation

Insulation technologies

Modern insulation technologies present a wide choice as well as construction technologies. The most popular insulation methods:

Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam - suitable for thermal insulation of a house, made using any construction technology: from stone to frame.

Insulation with polyurethane foam plates - suitable for almost all types of houses. You can sheathe houses from timber and logs.

Mineral wool insulation is more suitable for insulating frame structures.

Thermal insulation according to the "Warm seam" technology with special sealants for wood - ideal for insulating houses both from a bar and from a log, as well as chopped log cabins.

Increasingly, a wooden house is insulated by private craftsmen using the "warm seam" technology. Many construction companies and repair crews use wood sealant to insulate country houses from rounded logs and log cabins.

How to insulate a wooden house using the "Warm seam" technology?

How to make a warm seam?

If you have decided which sealant is right for you, then you can proceed to the next stage - performing work on sealing the joints. In principle, the job of applying sealant to wood is not technically difficult. The simplicity of the technology allows you to make a warm seam with your own hands. The only question is in time, tk. a warm seam requires painstaking work. Nevertheless, a more accurate seam will be obtained by professionals in their field - painters who have "got their hands on" at thousands of running meters of the seam. A dilemma often arises here: contact a private craftsman or conclude an agreement with a professional construction team. Whoever would be preferable for you, it is worth paying attention to the master's observance of the technology.

Warm seam technology involves the following stages of work:

1. Mechanical cleaning of the seam.

2. Gasket of an anti-adhesive braid made of extruded polyurethane.

3. Application and leveling of wood sealant.

If the technology is followed, a warm seam will last a long time and make the house warmer than ordinary caulking. In addition, for those who care about the appearance of facades and walls inside the house, caulking with a sealant is more suitable than traditional caulking. Sealing seams prevents not only heat loss, but also the penetration of moisture into the house. And sealing the ends of the log will prevent the penetration of excess moisture into the body of the wood, thereby protecting the log from decay.