Calathea - vibrant tropical greenery and amazing flowers. Calathea - the basic requirements for the care of Calathea with long narrow leaves

Calathea is a very beautiful houseplant. It is appreciated by flower growers for the unusual color of the leaves.

Requires careful care, top dressing, additional spraying.

In good conditions, it blooms with amazing fragrant flowers. Has a large number of varieties of varieties.

general description

Calathea is a magnificent indoor plant related to family Marantaceae... On average, it reaches 65-85 cm in height. It grows underground shoots that form a root system with rosettes of leaves. It has elongated oblong leaves, reaching a length of more than 30 cm. It has gained wide popularity due to the unusual color of the leaves.

Leaves have light emerald shadethat contains spots, stripes, or other darkest patterns. The upper color of the leaves can be amber, brown, bloody or purple. In ancient times, these leaves were used to weave baskets "calathos", which is why they got this amazing name.

Important! In addition to the magnificent color of the leaves, it amazes flower growers with another amazing ability. In the evening, the leaves rise up, revealing their emerald lower part.

And in the morning, when the sun rises, the leaves themselves go down, creating a rolled ball. If you observe during the day, you can notice a slight stirring of the leaves.

In the photo you can visually familiarize yourself with Calathea:

Views from photo

- the plant has elongated rounded leaves of a dark emerald hue with a light image next to the vein. They are endowed with terry. Calathea forms spike-like beige inflorescences.

- grows unusual leaves in ellipses, which reach a length of more than 35 cm. The main upper color is dark green. Endowed with a large light feathery pattern. Forms spike-like inflorescences of a lilac shade.

- possesses "false" flowers, collected in thyroid inflorescences. It has high peduncles and nondescript fragrant flowers. Endowed with velvety flowers dark emerald shade.

- a large tall plant. It has elongated leaves, reaching a length of 60-90 cm. It is endowed with a pronounced emerald-colored leaf plate. Has small spots and a serrated edge.

- reaches a height of 50 cm. large oval leaves snow-white, almost transparent shade. The upper side of the leaves is endowed with emerald elongated veins and stripes.

- has a characteristic color of the leaf plate. The main shade is light emerald. From the center, the color expands to dark, then to the lightest. The drawing resembles closed medallion, thanks to which the plant got its name.

- in the common people is called the red-beard. On the underside of the leaves is endowed with a light fluff. It has elongated serrated leaflets emerald color. Not endowed with a pattern.

- endowed with amazing leaves almost brown shade... The upper side of the leaves is colored emerald. A special feature is the regular flowering of magnificent amber inflorescences.

Sanderian- is an evergreen perennial. Has an extended root system. It responds well to fertilizing and systematic watering.

It has emerald-brown leaves with graceful snow-white or pink veins. The pattern is formed in groups, gradually moving away from the edge.

At home, it reaches a height of no more than 50 cm. In the wild, it can grow up to 2 m. This species is difficult to grow at home.

Wonderful- has elongated leaves, reaching a length of more than 25 cm. It has a pronounced leaf plate. Has a serrated edge and an emerald petiole without pubescence. The main background of the leaves is light emerald. They are decorated with dark wavy lines of an oval or burst pattern.

The leaf cushion and the back of the leaves are dark lilac in color. Thanks to this color, experienced florists call this subspecies lanceolate. The plant loves a lot of sunlight. Grows well on windowsills next to light windows.

Litze- grows in the wild in the tropics of Brazil. Reaches more than 55 cm in height.Forms basal leaves elliptical... The leaves have a jagged surface and reach a length of 12-15 cm. The upper surface of the leaves is endowed with a silver metallic tint.

It has large dark stripes. dark emerald color... The reverse side of the leaves has a blood-purple hue. The plant forms small spike-shaped inflorescences of a bright snow-white shade. Litze responds well to feeding. In good conditions it forms dense thickets.

Orbifolia- is the most unpretentious variety of all existing species. It is an evergreen plant with a wide root system.

It grows well both in the wild and at home. It grows up to 50-70 cm.

Growing rapidly. Therefore, the width can reach 40-55 cm.

This representative of the flora is endowed with large wide leaves of a light emerald hue.

On the upper side of the sheets there are pronounced silvery streaks.

The lower part of the sheets is light emerald. The homeland is the tropics of Brazil.

Ornata- is one of the most popular types. Bred by hybridization of the Sanderian variety. It is considered the most amazing and spectacular plant. And in the common people this subspecies is called "decorated". This name is due to the graceful clear lines of snow-white, cream, silver or bloody colors.

They are located on a light emerald background perpendicular from the middle of the vein. The reverse side of the leaves is endowed with a purple or burgundy tint. The plant forms spike inflorescences... But it does not bloom at home.

Striped- is an evergreen perennial. It got its name from the characteristic colors, similar to zebra stripes.

The plant forms elongated leaves, reaching a length of 25-40 cm. The upper part of the leaves has a light emerald hue. There are dark stripes near the central vein.

Calathea reaches a height of 80-90 cm. It forms lilac or snow-white flowers with a pleasant fragrant aroma. It blooms very rarely at home. In most cases, forms decorative, odorless miniature flowers. Prefers high humidity.

Roseopicta- is a compact plant with large elongated leaves... The main color of the leaves is light emerald. Pink stripes are located near the central vein. As time passes, the decorative pattern begins to brighten.

The other side has a uniform pink color. The flower reaches a height of no more than 50 cm. It has a wide root system. Grows well in slightly acidic soils with a small amount of peat. Does not bloom at home.

Forms axillary or apical inflorescences. Depending on the species, the flowers have a snow-white, amber, orange or lilac hue. It responds well to top dressing. Prefers high humidity.

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Among the floral variety, Calathea attracts attention with its original and varied leaf color. It is believed that the plant is able to absorb negative energy, bring happiness to the house, add comfort, with proper care at home. In order to check the reliability of a positive influence on others, you just need to try to grow it, and this is not so easy.

Calathea is a bright representative of the Marantovy genus, has very beautiful oval or elongated leaves and pigment spots on a plate of different colors (white, pink, purple, green), and they are different for each plant.

The plant is quite large, with good care, its height can reach 60-90 cm.The length of the basal leaves is 10-30 cm.

All Calatheas have a common ability: the leaves roll in the evening and lifting them up, which resembles palms folded in prayer. In the morning they unfold and descend. This feature gave calathea its second name - "prayer flower".

Refers to flowering plants, its small flowers are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences. Bracts that adjoin flowers look more attractive.

The most beautifully blooming are considered:

  • Calathea Varshevich
  • Calathea saffron
  • Calathea roseolineata Dutti

Refers to perennial herbaceous plants that require transplanting as they grow. In indoor home conditions, life expectancy ranges from 2 to 5 years, depending on the variety.

Types and varieties of Galatea

Among the Marantov family, Galatea has the greatest variety, which includes 300 species, including mixes.

Calathea Saffron or Crocata

Dark green glossy leaves adorn orange flowers. Height up to 0.6 m.

It has rounded silvery leaves with dark stripes. The reverse side is burgundy. It blooms with small purple flowers. Unlike other varieties, it grows well under artificial light.


Zebrina roseolineata

Plant with glossy dark green foliage and double stripes radiating from the center of the leaf. On young stripes, pinkish whiten with age. The underside of the zebrina leaves is dark pink. Height 0.6 m. Flowers light purple or cream.


Light green stripes appear on the dark green velvet of the leaves, radiating to both sides from the central vein. Height up to 0.8 m. Before flowering, it needs a garter of discarded flower shoots.


Medallion or Roseopicta

Oval-shaped leaves, 20 cm long, combine dark green and light green colors with a clear pattern. The basal petioles are brown.


Light green leaves have dark green spots with a displacement in height. Basal petioles are long. Height up to 0.5 m.


Planting rules for calathea

Calathea belongs to rosette plants, that is, those in which no stem, and the leaves are collected in rosettes. Over time, the rosettes increase in volume, build up the root system and need a transplant.

Plants do not tolerate the process of transplanting well, but it must be done every 2-3 years.
The root system of the calathea is shallow, so the pot for planting needs not deep, but wide.

At least 1/3 of the pot should make up the drain it can be expanded clay. To avoid root rot damage to the plant, a layer of activated carbon tablets or a layer of charcoal can be placed over the drainage.

The soil for planting should be loose, therefore, take ready-made soil for decorative deciduous plants or make up the soil mixture yourself:

  • leaf land - 2 parts;
  • peat - 1 part;
  • sand - 1 part;
  • pieces of sphagnum moss, perlite or vermiculite, crushed charcoal are added to the mixture.

Calathea is transplanted in March-April or not earlier than 2 weeks after purchase.

For better rooting and survival of the plant, it is advisable to pour with a solution of Zircon (4 drops per 1 liter of water) or growth stimulator HB-101 (1 drop per 1 liter of water).

Features of plant care in indoor conditions

Calathea capricious in leaving and she needs to be given increased attention when growing. She needs high humidity and an optimal temperature.

Growing conditions and how to care:

  1. The temperature should be within 18-25 ° С.
  2. Drafts are contraindicated for the plant.
  3. Calatheas need bright diffused light, but it needs to be shaded from direct sunlight. The best place for growing is the western side, shading is required on the southern windows. When grown in the shade or bright sun, the plant loses decorativeness, the leaves fade, the drawing disappears, they just turn green.
  4. Air humidity should be at the level of 70-90%... This requires frequent spraying, only preferably not the plant itself, but the air around it. Or place the pots on trays with pebbles or expanded clay with poured water. Only the water should not come into contact with the bottom of the pot. To maintain humidity overnight, you can put a plastic bag on the pot with calathea.
  5. Watering should be abundant, soft water at room temperature as the soil in the pot dries. In order to avoid decay of the roots, it is necessary to avoid stagnation of water in the flower pot. After watering, the water must be drained from the pallet.
  6. You need to feed the flower 1 time per month in winter, during spring-autumn every 2 weeks... Fertilizers are desirable special for ornamental-deciduous plants or complex-mineral. does not like excess nitrogen and calcium in the soil... Saffron calathea is fed with fertilizer for flowering ornamental plants.
  7. Calathea is propagated mainly by dividing the rhizome during transplantation, carefully trying to damage the roots as little as possible during reproduction.

A feature of the arrowroot family is that they have a dormant period after flowering, when they can shed their foliage.


Calathea needs to continue to be watered and maintain high humidity, and over time, the leaf mass will begin to grow again.

With improper care behind the calathea in the growing process, you can encounter the following problems:

  • leaves lose tugor and curl, darkening and the appearance of dry spots on them - a possible cause may be drafts, insufficient air humidity;
  • thinning of the leaf plate, stretching of the leaves - lack of light;
  • spots - yellow (sunburn), dark (excess moisture);
  • curling, discoloration and drying - excess light;
  • shedding leaves - dry air or excessive watering.

Brown spots on the leaves

Pests and the fight against them

Calathea can be affected by such pests as spider mites, scale insects, thrips.

  • when first white and then dark plaques appear on the plant, it speaks of scabbard damage... To combat the pest, first clean the petioles from it with a sponge dipped in soapy water, and then spray it with an insecticide (Aktellik, Fufanon, Fitoverm).
  • with flower damage spider mite leaves turn yellow, white or gray spots appear on them, they curl. The fight begins by treating the plant with soapy water, then the flower is treated with hot water under a shower at 45 ° C. In severe cases, resort to the use of insecticides;
  • if available on calathea thrips leaves droop, white spots form on them, and then wither and fall off. To get rid of the pest, the flower is treated with a pink solution of manganese or Decis (poisonous).

Any calathea is a small work of art so varied is its painted leaves. And no matter how capricious she was in leaving, her amazing beauty and uniqueness are worth tinkering with.

Calathea Are herbaceous stemless plants with brightly colored leaves. Some form small underground tubers, some form long underground rhizomes. The homeland of kalata is the tropical rainforests of South America.
Calatheas belong to the arrowroot species. This species also includes ktenants and stromants. Calathea can rightfully be called the most beautiful decorative deciduous plants of all that are grown indoors. But, unfortunately, they are also the most capricious of all arrowroots. Moreover, there is a pattern according to which the more beautiful the leaf of the plant, the more difficult it is to grow. The most difficult species to grow are those with velvet leaves.

Indoor views

Calathea Varshevich - this calathea can rightfully be called the most beautiful among indoor species. Slightly wavy velvety leaves of exceptional beauty, lighter at the central vein. The underside of the leaf is purple. The height of the plant is 90-120 cm. The color is a cream-colored nested ear. Demanding appearance. Requires careful spraying.

Calathea Zebrina - 1 of the most decorative types. Homeland - tropical rainforests of Brazil. Height 40-60 cm. Leaves are velvety, light green with dark stripes extending from the central vein to the edges of the leaf, reaching 35-40 cm in length. Like all species with velvety leaves, it needs a higher humidity and more accurate spraying with exclusively boiled water.

Calathea Veitch - the homeland of Peru. Brightly colored look. Plant height up to 90 cm. Leaves are glossy, strong, wide, up to 30 cm long with dark green and light stripes extending concentrically from the central leaf vein.

Decorated calathea - the birthplace of Colombia. The leaves are narrow, 15-20 cm long, dark green, covered with pink and silvery strokes extending from the central vein to the edge of the leaf. The lower part of the leaf is dark purple.

Calathea lanceolate - this species has unusually narrow (no more than 5 cm) and up to 30 cm long leaves with a beautiful wavy edge. The leaf is colored with alternating oval spots of larger and smaller sizes on a light green background. The substrate is purple.

Calathea Makoya - a compact plant 30-40 cm high, leaves are broadly oval, up to 20 cm long, bright green with dark green rounded stripes reaching the middle of the leaf. Quite easy to grow species. Forms a leaf cap quickly with good care.

- not a large plant with dark green leaves slightly wavy along the edge. The substrate is purple. Differs in beautiful flowering - small yellow-orange inflorescences very decorate the plant. This is the only species worth seeking flowering. Therefore, when feeding, fertilizers are alternated for decorative leafy plants and for decorative flowering plants.

Care

Accommodation

There is a misconception that calatheas can grow in the shade. In fact, these plants require bright, diffused light. Only with this arrangement can they please with a beautiful bright color of the leaves. However, calatheas must be carefully protected from direct sunlight, which, even with a short-term exposure to leaves, can cause burns, leading to ugly dark spots on the leaves and partial or even hollow loss of decorative effect. These plants can be grown in artificial light, but the length of artificial daylight hours should be at least 12 hours a day.
In addition, when placing it, it must be borne in mind that calatheas do not tolerate drafts at all.

Temperature

All year round, the temperature of the content should be in the range of 18-25 ° C. An increase in temperature above 25 ° C should be accompanied by an increase in air humidity. Lowering the temperature to 15 ° C can significantly worsen the decorative effect of the plant, and temperatures below 12 ° C will kill it. If the room temperature drops below 18 ° C, it is very important to keep the earthen ball warm, since cooling the roots leads the plant to death. For this reason, the plant should not be placed on a cold windowsill - place a piece of styrofoam under the pot.

Watering

Water often, but in moderation - usually after the top layer of the earth dries out. The water should be warm and well-separated, ideally filtered. The water is drained from the pallet.

Humidity

High air humidity is the main criterion for the successful cultivation of calathea. They feel best in a florarium or in a flower window. Under these conditions, the cultivation of these plants is not difficult. If this is not possible, the plant should be regularly sprayed with warm boiled or filtered water. It is impossible to use tap water for spraying, as it leaves stains on the leaves, which are almost impossible to remove from the velvety leaves. To increase humidity, especially in winter, the plant can be placed on a tray with or placed between the plants with bowls of water. An excellent solution to the problem of humidity can be a humidifier.

Top dressing

In spring and summer, calatheas are fertilized every 2 weeks with a complex fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants, diluted in 2 times less concentration than indicated on the label. In autumn and winter, feeding is either not produced at all, or reduced to 1 time per month.

Transfer

Kalata have a shallow root system, so they do not need a large deep pot. They are transplanted every spring in a slightly larger container with a drainage layer of 2-3 cm. The soil should be loose and consist of leafy earth, peat, and sand (6: 3: 2). If it is not possible to make a soil mixture, you can replace it with purchased soil for Saintpaulias (see also) or universal soil, into which it is desirable to add sand.

Reproduction

Propagated by carefully dividing it into several parts. Rhizome species can be propagated by cutting the rhizome with buds. Young plants are planted in separate shoots and covered with a bag for several days.

Diseases and pests

It is amazed, and. When a scabbard is affected, a sweetish bloom appears on the leaves, and from thrips and a tick, the leaves curl into a tube or warp. They fight them with the help of "Fitoverma" or "", diluted in boiled water. However, the application will inevitably affect the appearance of plants with velvet leaves.

Growing problems:

  • Leaves lose their brightness - the plant lacks lighting. Place it closer to a window or under artificial lighting;
  • The tips of the leaves dry up - insufficient air humidity. Spray the leaves regularly;
  • Leaves turn red and dry - too bright light - shade the plant;
  • Brown spots on the leaves - burn from direct sunlight. Rearrange the plant or shade it;
  • Stems are soft - you have supercooled the plant. Place it in a warmer room;
  • Leaves roll up and dry around the edges - insufficient watering. Water the plant more often to keep the earthy coma from drying out. Sprinkle the leaves with Epin.

Of course, it is quite difficult to grow a healthy calathea, but by providing it with high humidity and good lighting, you will get a plant of delightful beauty, which is decorative 365 days a year and can decorate any interior.

In conclusion, I suggest watching a short video about calatheas.

Calathea is a houseplant extremely appreciated by flower growers for the attractiveness of its leaves and flowers. You can make up a whole collection of its types. Although it is quite difficult for a beginner to grow such an exotic at home, experienced flower growers boldly acquire calatheas, despite the possible difficulties of care. They can be understood by looking at this plant in bloom. Such an unusual beauty expiates the inconvenience and exactingness of the flower.

Description of the species

Calathea is a perennial herb native to the Amazon Valley in South America. In the arrowroot family, this is the most numerous genus. Currently, about 130 species of kalata are known, not counting the hybrids bred by breeding... Calathea also favorably differs from other plant species that make up this family, known for the decorative leaves of all its representatives, in the presence of flowers.

Calathea leaves of different species are very different.

The name of the species comes from the Greek calathos - basket. American aborigines still weave baskets from the leaves of calathea. But this is not their only application. For example, in Brazil, freshly caught fish is wrapped in them so that it does not spoil longer, and in Colombia they make bags and hats.

The plant is not tall (65–75 cm), so it is well suited for growing at home. As a houseplant, calathea is prized mainly for the appearance of its leaves. They are large (25–30 cm long), strongly elongated, oval in shape. In most species, the leaves have petioles, although lanceolate variants are also found. The leaves are collected in rosettes. Their number varies: for some kalata with the most beautiful flowers, one leaf in the outlet is the norm.

Leaves are simply green in color, but in most kalata they are covered with patterns of randomly spaced spots and stripes of almost white, silver, yellow, light orange, pink, reddish or brick color.

Why does a flower raise leaves in the evening and lower them in the morning

A characteristic feature of Calathea is that its leaves are always drawn by the sun's rays. Therefore, if you do not want your plant to grow crooked in a pot, it needs to be rotated from time to time. In the evenings, the leaves rise almost vertically upward, opening the lower side, in the morning they fall back. The raised leaves are very reminiscent of folded hands for prayer. For this feature, Calathea received its second name - "prayer flower". The first, the "crown of the Incas", is associated with the area of \u200b\u200bits distribution and the appearance of flowers. A lot of wild species of calathea have been discovered in Peru.

During the day, looking closely, you will notice that the leaves of calathea shake finely.

The leaves live for about a year, then die off and are replaced by new rosettes.Shoots are almost impossible to see - they are almost completely located underground, forming rhizomes. Only a vertical process 2–3 cm long emerges on the surface, on which a rosette of leaves is formed.

How the "crown of the Incas" blooms

Subject to proper care, calathea blooms from late May to mid-August. Its inflorescences resemble a spike collected from three smaller spikelets. They form at the tops of the shoots or in the leaf axils.

The color of the flowers is very diverse: they can be white, yellow, orange, lilac and more.

The structure of flowers in calathea is very unusual, so their pollination in nature looks pretty funny. A bee, descending on a flower, tries to reach the nectar with its proboscis, but this is impossible, since there is an obstacle that is very similar in shape to a cocked pistol trigger. When the insect pushes it, this outgrowth sharply straightens, slapping the bee. As a result, the pollen of this plant is transferred to it. At the same time, the bee shudders violently, thus shaking off the pollen of another flower.

The roots of Calathea are covered with frequent small spherical growths, which botanists call stolons. It is in them that the plant keeps in reserve water and essential nutrients.

It is scientifically proven that calathea has a positive effect on the air in the room. Its leaves intensively absorb and destroy formaldehydes, which cause depression, apathy and chronic fatigue. Also, these substances are a common cause of allergic reactions. And in large cities, where the level of formaldehyde in the air regularly rises due to exhaust gases, they can provoke the development of tumors, including malignant ones.

Video: capricious sissy calathea

Popular varieties

Most often, the following types of kalata can be purchased in flower shops. Among them there are both natural species and hybrids created by breeders.

Calathea Bahema

The plant is not tall, about 35 cm. Leaves are lanceolate, without petiole, not too narrow (7–8) cm and long (15–20 cm), sharply narrowing towards the top. The upper side of the leaf plate is light green with a noticeable silvery sheen, the lower one is lime-colored. A pattern of dark green spots along the central vein is characteristic. The flowers are rather large (5–6 cm) and are arranged on short peduncles.

The main decorative feature of the Bachem calathea is the silvery sheen of the leaves

Calathea Varshevich

The leaves of this species are dark green, and purple below, with petioles, velvety to the touch. Above the leaves, there is a pattern of spots and stripes of a lighter shade, running along the central vein. The plant blooms with white, cream or pinkish flowers.

Calathea Varshevich has very beautiful leaves and flowers

Calathea Veitch

It is sometimes mistakenly called "Calathea Vicha". This is one of the tallest representatives of the species (75–90 cm). The leaves are large, 25–30 cm long and 12–15 cm wide. The outer surface of the leaf is dark green with a glossy sheen and a pattern of yellowish green stripes. From below they look no less impressive - light green, with a reddish tint and a pattern of white and yellow stripes. Flowers are arranged on very long (18-22 cm) peduncles.

Calathea Veitch looks very impressive even without flowers

Wonderful, or lanceolate (lansifolia)

The leaves of this calathea are long (25 cm), but narrow (3-5 cm), with a slightly wavy edge. They are light green above, with a geometrically regular pattern of dark green ovals of different sizes, and below they are inky purple.

A characteristic feature of the remarkable calathea is waviness along the entire edge of the leaf plate

Striped (zebrina)

The leaves of the zebra-like calathea are long (30–35 cm) and wide (15–20 cm), without petioles. Above - bright green, with a pattern of stripes reminiscent of feathers, below - reddish green. Inflorescences are almost round or ovoid in shape, peduncles are short, flowers are white or pale purple.

Of all the kalatei, the zebra-like one is perhaps best suited to its name.

Leopard

The height of this plant is about 40 cm. The leaves are without petioles, short (9–12 cm) and narrow (2–4 cm). The upper part of the leaf plate is light green, with elliptical spots that diverge from the central vein. The flowers are bright yellow.

Calathea leopard blooms very beautifully with yellow flowers

Calathea Litze

It is a medium-sized plant (55-60 cm). Leaves on petioles, about 15 cm long and 6–8 cm wide, slightly wavy around the edge. From above they are bright green, with a glossy, almost metallic sheen and wide stripes of a darker shade, and from below they are reddish-purple. The flowers are snowy white.

The leaves of the Calathea Litze are not the most attractive, but the white flowers look amazing

Calathea Makoya

The plant is not tall (40-50 cm). The leaves are long and wide (15–20 cm and 10–12 cm, respectively). Above, on a bright green plate, there is a pattern of dark green stripes radiating from the central vein, and reddish spots. Below the leaves are pale green, almost transparent.

Calathea Makoya has a spectacular leaf color

Painted

The leaves of this calathea are about 20 cm long. From above they are dark green, the central vein is always lighter, as is the continuous strip along the entire edge of the leaf plate.

The pattern on the leaves of the painted calathea resembles brush strokes

Decorated (sanderiana)

This is a stunted plant (25-30 cm). Leaves on long (8–12 cm) petioles, 17–20 cm long and 7–8 cm wide, lime-colored, with a pattern of silvery and pinkish stripes. Below they are purple-violet. Inflorescences 7–8 cm long, white or lilac-violet, on a very long (25–30 cm) peduncle.

Unlike the rest of the kalata, the decorated one has very long peduncles.

Saffron (crocata)

The leaves of this popular flower are dark green above and brown-brown on the underside. The flowers are yellow-orange, saffron-colored, hence the name. Unlike other species, saffron calathea blooms in winter (in January or February).

Calathea saffron stands out among other varieties with beautiful bright flowers

Video: caring for calathea saffron

Calathea Rufibarba

Literally the name means "red-bearded". It is associated with the presence of a light yellow-orange cannon on the underside of the leaf plate and petioles. The leaves of this calathea themselves are slightly wavy along the edge, bright green, without a pattern. Flowers are yellow or orange.

Calathea rufibarba differs from other species by the presence of a light "cannon" on the leaves

Calathea Burle Marx, or "Blue Ice"

Leaves are light green, with a noticeable bluish tint. The flowers are snow-white, with a subtle shade of blue.

Calathea "Blue Ice" blooms with amazing bluish flowers

Calathea Lubbers

Unlike most other calatheas, which have a more or less symmetrical pattern on the leaves, Lubbers calathea are lemon and pale yellow chaotically located spots on a bright green leaf. The leaves themselves are an almost regular ellipse, tapering towards the top. They are located on long petioles. The leaves are slightly lighter below than above.

Bright lemon spots on the leaves of Calathea Lubbers look very festive.

Mosaic (network)

The leaves of the calathea of \u200b\u200bthis species are of a very light green hue, they appear translucent in the light. Veins of bright green or lime color divide them into small quadrangles. This explains the name - the leaves seem to be folded from pieces of glass of different shades.

The leaves of calathea are mosaic as if they were collected from thousands of tiny fragments of translucent glass

Pink-colored (roseopicta), or "Medallion"

It is a spectacular flower, about 35-40 cm tall. Below, the leaf plate is inky-violet, on top - dark green with wide veins of various shades (bright green, light green, silvery, pinkish), diverging from the central vein. A narrow, almost white border runs along the edge of the sheet.

It is hard to believe that pink-colored calathea is a creation of nature, and not a figment of the artist's imagination

Plant transplant after purchase and as it grows

The optimal time for transplanting calathea is early spring. This procedure is vital for the plant.... But do not transplant calathea at the wrong time. Therefore, new items in your collection should be bought at the end of winter or at the beginning of spring. Plants aged 1 to 3 years are transplanted annually, then - once every 2–3 years (depending on the state of the flower).

Calathea roots release specific toxins into the soil, which can lead to its death. For the same reason, it is recommended to immediately transplant a plant purchased in a store, because you do not reliably know its age and how much it is already in this pot.

Before starting a transplant, you need to take care of a suitable soil and pot. Purchase a special soil mixture designed for plants from the arrowroot family. If it is not there, soil is suitable for growing azaleas or rhododendrons. Experienced gardeners prefer to prepare the soil on their own, mixing in a 2: 1: 1: 1 ratio of fertile soil from their own garden, humus, peat and coarse river sand. Another option is to mix earth, humus and peat in equal proportions. A prerequisite is a slightly acidic or neutral indicator of the acid-base balance. At the same time, only wood ash can be deoxidized.

It is better to pre-sterilize the soil by calcining it in the oven, spilling it with boiling water or holding it in a sieve over steam for 15 minutes.

The pot for calathea should be low, but wide and resemble a bowl in shape... This is due to the fact that the root system comes very close to the surface. As for the material, it is better to give preference to unglazed ceramics. This will provide oxygen access to the roots in the required volume.

The most suitable pot for calathea is similar to a basin or bowl.

The transplant takes place as follows:

  1. When preparing for transplanting, water the plant abundantly within 1–1.5 hours. This will make it much easier to remove from the old pot.
  2. Take care of the drainage before filling the pot with soil. The layer thickness must be at least a quarter of the container height. Expanded clay, river pebbles, fine gravel, brick chips, small ceramic shards and even eggshells can be used as drainage. It is useful to sprinkle the drain with a thin layer of powdered charcoal or activated carbon. This is an additional prevention of root rot.

    Good drainage is essential to aerate the calathea roots.

  3. The drainage can be filled with soil. The layer thickness should not exceed 2–3 cm. It is not necessary to tamp it.

    Pour the soil into the pot little by little and do not tamp

  4. Remove the calathea carefully from the old pot to avoid damaging the roots. No need to try to pull out one plant - take out the entire earthy clod.

    Turn the plant pot on its side and carefully remove the earthy ball

  5. Rinse the roots under running cool water and carefully examine. All roots with traces of rot, mold and other damage must be cut with a sharp knife strictly perpendicularly. The cut sites are disinfected with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and covered with crushed charcoal or sifted wood ash. Also trim off any old dry leaves.
  6. Place the plant on the soil. Spread out the roots. Be sure to hold the calathea with your hand, constantly making sure that the growth point is above the surface of the substrate and does not move away from the center of the pot.

    The growth point must be above ground level

  7. The soil is poured into the pot carefully, in small portions, stopping when 1.5–2 cm remains to the upper edge of the pot. It is slightly crushed, but not tamped. The roots left without air are the inevitable speedy death of Calathea.

    Consider also the fact that after the first watering the soil will settle down a little.

  8. Then the transplanted calathea is watered abundantly and removed for 2-3 days in a cool place, protected from direct sunlight. This is necessary to minimize the consequences of the transplant.

    The next time the transplanted plant is watered no earlier than after 8-10 days.

Necessary home care

The natural conditions in which calathea feels best at home are quite problematic to create. However, a significant plus that made all plants of the arrowroot family extremely popular for home floriculture is the absence of a dormant period. Once the conditions have been created, they do not have to be changed regularly.

Calatheas feel great next to any other indoor plants. Moreover, other flowers keep the air humidity vital for this tropical sissy.

Lighting

Calathei do not like the bright hot sun at all. It can cause burns on the leaves as light spots, fading of bright colors and shrinking of the leaf blade. This is easily explained if you remember what tropical forests look like, in which the upper branches of tall trees, intertwining, form a canopy that is almost impenetrable to rays. These plants need diffused light... Therefore, if you grow them on a windowsill, where direct sunlight falls, calatheas must be shaded in the daytime (from 11:00 to 15:00).

The most suitable place for calathea is the sill of a window facing east, southeast or west.

Another option is artificial lighting. Calatheas grow well under fluorescent lamps if light hits them for 14-18 hours a day. The same lamps must be turned on from November to March, when the daylight hours are not so long.

Temperature regime

During the period of active growth and flowering (from the beginning of March to the end of August), the optimal temperature for calathea is 24–28º. In winter, the temperature should be kept at 17–22º. If it drops to 15º, the plant will inevitably die.

Calathea really dislikes sudden temperature changes, cold drafts and changing places. Therefore, determine a suitable place for the flower with a constant temperature in advance. Any deviations lead to the fact that the leaves rot and wither.

Air humidity

High air humidity (at the level of 90–95%) is one of the necessary conditions for the normal development and regular flowering of calathea. Therefore, daily spraying is extremely important for the flower. In winter, when the air in the room becomes drier due to the radiators, calathea is sprayed twice a day. At the same time, the leaves should not be allowed to hang from the windowsill, almost touching the batteries.

Choose a spray that delivers the smallest drops. Excessively large, falling on the leaves, provoke the development of dark spots and rot.

To increase the humidity, place a humidifier in the room, and next to the calathea, place a container with water, wet moss, peat, expanded clay, sand or pebbles. In this case, do not pour water directly into the pan of the pot. Another care option is to hermetically close the plants with plastic bags or glass caps at night.

Waterlogging and overdrying is destructive for kalata. In both cases, the plant simply folds and sheds its leaves.

If the leaves are leathery and dense, they can be regularly wiped with a damp sponge. In this case, just like for spraying, use warm water (25–27 ° C).

How to water

Watering kalatea needs abundant, but the plant should not be poured either. Calathea Makoya especially suffers from waterlogging. Water only when the topsoil is dry. Calathea is watered at intervals of 3-4 days (more often in summer), consuming about 0.5-0.7 liters of water per adult plant.

For irrigation, use warm water (25-27 ° C) that has been settled for 2–3 days. It should never be hard, too chlorinated or high in fluorine. To soften the water, dip the peat tightly bound in cotton or linen into a container. A couple of handfuls are enough. Ideally, you should use melt water or rainwater. Too cold liquid leads to rapid development of root rot.

In winter, watering is reduced by about half, and the interval between two procedures is increased to 4–5 days.

The frequency of watering is directly related to the level of humidity. If the humidity exceeds 75–80%, one irrigation every 3-4 days is enough, but if it is low (35–40%), it is necessary to water more often.

Remember that frequent watering will not compensate for the dry air.

When and what can you feed

Calathea needs feeding only during the period of intensive growth and flowering (from March to September). Once every 12-15 days, fertilizer for arrowroot or universal flower fertilizer for decorative leafy crops is applied to the soil.

Fertilizers designed for decorative leafy indoor plants are suitable.

It is important not to overdo it with fertilizers. Therefore, read the instructions carefully and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Calathea reacts especially negatively to excessive amounts of nitrogen and calcium.

The optimal time for top dressing is 10-15 minutes after watering, when the moisture is completely absorbed into the soil. Fertilizing overdried soil is strongly discouraged.

In winter, if you are satisfied with the condition of the plant, you can refuse feeding or carry it out every 1.5 months.

Video: how to properly care for calathea

How to save a flower from pests

Despite the fact that Calathea is quite capricious, it relatively rarely suffers from diseases and pests, if you create the right conditions for it. The most common problems are powdery mildew, spider mites, scale insects and whiteflies.

Mealybug

What is called powdery mildew is actually the result of a pest called a mealybug. They settle in whole colonies under the leaves. You can observe small pellets, as if from dirty cotton wool, dotting the leaves, their stalks and peduncles. Worms suck sap from plants. As a result, the more Calathea suffers, the more its growth is inhibited, deformed, dry and leaves fall off.

For prevention, regularly carefully examine the plants, wipe the leaves with a damp sponge at least once every 15–20 days, cut off all yellowed, withered, dried leaves in time. The sooner you find the problem and start to deal with it, the easier it is to get rid of the worm.

Control measures:

  1. At an early stage, it may be enough to wipe the leaves with a piece of bandage or a cotton pad dipped in foam of laundry soap, and then spray the calathea with a solution of green potassium soap three times a week (a teaspoon of fine shavings per liter of water).
  2. Another option is to wipe the leaves with 7-10% ethyl alcohol or an alcohol tincture of calendula flowers diluted to the same concentration. A more concentrated solution can burn the leaves.
  3. In severe cases, use insecticides - Actellik, Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Nurell-D, Karbofos. Before use, be sure to read the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer. The affected calatheas are sprayed with the prepared solution weekly until the pest is completely destroyed.

    If one of the drugs gives no visible results, use the other until you find the most effective chemical.

  4. Those who prefer natural remedies can fight mealybugs with the help of an infusion of garlic arrows, onion peels, and any citrus peels. 50–70 g of crushed raw materials are poured with a liter of boiling water, tightly closed with a lid and removed for 2-3 days in a warm, dark place. The ready-to-use infusion is filtered. Processing is carried out every 3-4 days in the evenings, alternating means. With a cotton swab dipped in the infusion, periodically changing it, rub the leaves and peduncles.

Spider mite

The spider mite is a pest that feeds on plant juices, it is a carrier of many pathogenic viruses, fungi and bacteria. On a kalatea affected by a spider mite, one can notice thin filaments braiding leaves or their petioles, as well as small whitish dots on the lower part of the leaf plate. If the process has gone too far, the plant literally hides under a thick layer of whitish mass, resembling a cobweb.

The spider mite feels great in insufficiently humidified air, so regularly spray calathea leaves for prevention. Conduct sanitary pruning in a timely manner - remove faded flower stalks, old dried leaves.

You should not be overly zealous with moisture - the liquid accumulating in the axils of the leaves, especially in winter, will very quickly lead to rotting of the flower. Also, do not hope to drown the pests by periodically submerging the whole plant in water. Ticks are able to form a bubble of air that effectively protects them.

Control measures:

  1. The fight against spider mites begins by wiping the leaves with a solution of laundry soap or dishwashing liquid in warm water.

    Don't limit yourself to surface spraying. The spider mite prefers secluded places, such as leaf axils. It is also useful to handle the pots, stands for them and the window sill.

  2. If the pest has not yet hit the calathea en masse, water the plant abundantly (0.5 l of water) and cover it on top with a plastic bag for 2-3 days, sealing it on the pot. Due to the increased humidity, the pests inside the bag will die. All this time, watch out for calathea (especially in summer) so that sunburn does not appear on the leaves.
  3. In advanced cases, spraying the flower with solutions of Karbofos, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm, as well as products containing the oil of the Neem tree will help. At the same time, Temik or Aldicarb granules can be added to the soil.
  4. In addition to high humidity, these pests do not like ultraviolet light. That is why they prefer to settle on the underside of the sheet plate. If you have a fluorescent lamp, irradiate the leaves with it.
  5. You can try the following folk remedies:
    • Onion infusion. 10-15 g of finely chopped onion or 2 times less husk is poured with a liter of water at room temperature and insisted for 8-10 hours. Filter the infusion before use.
    • Infusion of dandelion roots. Pour a tablespoon of finely chopped raw materials with a liter of warm water and leave for 2-3 hours.
    • Garlic infusion. Gruel from peeled cloves (12–15 pieces) is poured with a liter of water and infused for 4–5 days. Then they mix thoroughly and take a teaspoon of liquid for spraying, again diluting it in a liter of water.

Shield

On the leaves affected by this pest, a sticky transparent coating appears, clearly visible in the sun due to the characteristic shine. The scale insects feed on plant sap, and their excrement creates a light and airtight film, negatively affecting the normal course of photosynthesis and cellular respiration of the plant. Calathea practically stops growing, the leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry out.

For prophylaxis, regularly inspect the plants for the presence of characteristic dark brown almost flat growths on the underside of the leaves, on the petioles and at the roots. At least once every 2-3 weeks, wipe the calathea with a soft cloth dampened in warm water.

Control measures:

  1. If literally the whole plant is affected by a pest, it is easier to destroy it, the pot and pallet can be disinfected, and the window sill and window must be thoroughly washed with hot water.
  2. When the problem is not yet chronic, pour warm (about 45 ° C) water from a watering can or shower over the flower. Then wipe it with a cotton swab dipped in 70% ethyl alcohol. Be careful to spread the alcohol in a thin layer - this will evaporate faster. After 1-1.5 hours after rubbing with alcohol, the calathea is treated with a thick foam of laundry soap. The foam treatment is repeated every other day, and then after 3-4 days (only 7-10 times) until the pest is completely destroyed. The second and subsequent foam treatments can be replaced by thorough spraying with solutions of Inta-Vir, Aktara, Aktellik, Fufanon, Fury, Bazudin preparations. It is important that the leaves are completely dry before the procedure.

    Since some of the listed products are quite toxic, read the label carefully and follow all the safety measures described by the manufacturer. It is best to carry out processing on a balcony, loggia or outdoors.

Whitefly

Tiny insects with whitish wings appear on the underside of calathea leaves. If you shake the plant slightly, you can see them rise into the air. On the leaves, starting from the lowest ones, a shiny sticky coating is formed. The whitefly is very fond of heat and high humidity. Therefore, for prophylaxis in winter, it is useful to keep the calatheas for 3-4 weeks at a temperature of about 18 ° C.

Control measures:

  1. Of the chemicals for pest control, Verticillin and Pegasus (no more than two treatments), Actellik (up to 4 treatments after 4-6 days), Confidor, Mospilan, Fufanon (one procedure) can be used at intervals of 7-10 days.
  2. Folk remedies for combating whitefly:
    • Traps. Pieces of cardboard, plywood, glass are painted in bright colors and placed next to flower pots, having previously greased with a mixture of petroleum jelly or rosin with honey, jam or sugar syrup. Whiteflies stick to the trap, attracted by the bright color. Homemade traps will successfully replace special sticky tapes designed for catching flies.
    • Infusion of yarrow. 3 tablespoons of leaves and stems are finely chopped and poured with a liter of boiling water. Insist day. Filter the leaves before spraying.
    • Garlic infusion. A teaspoon of finely chopped arrows or a gruel of 2-3 cloves is poured with a liter of water and infused for a day.

      However, any folk remedies are effective only when the problem is identified in a timely manner and there are still not very many pests.

Photo gallery: calathea pests

Small whiteflies are easy to see just by shaking the calathea Scabbards resembling natural growths are easy to miss at first, but they are very dangerous pests. It is simply impossible not to notice spider mites, especially when they have multiplied in large numbers - the calathea is literally hidden under the cobweb Large colonies of mealybugs are literally able to suck all the juices from the calathea

Flower propagation

Calathea is propagated at home in three main ways. Reproduction by division requires the least time and effort.

Division of roots

Adult plants older than 3-5 years independently form several rhizomes that are practically isolated from each other, which are easy to finally separate during transplantation. Usually, 3-4 new calatheas can be obtained from one plant.

Adult calathea successfully reproduces by dividing the bush, but this method is not suitable for all species

Procedure:

  1. The main thing when dividing is not to damage the roots. To do this, they are cut with a sharp knife, disinfected in a saturated purple solution of potassium permanganate.
  2. All sections are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.
  3. New plants are planted in small pots filled with peat mixed with coarse river sand in a 2: 1 ratio.
  4. After transplanting, the soil is poured abundantly with cool water. The next watering is only after the soil is completely dry.
  5. The pots are placed in plastic bags that are loosely tied. Another option is to make several holes in them.
  6. The containers are placed in a warm place (25–28 ° C) until 1–2 new leaves appear.
  7. Then the plant is transplanted into a pot that is slightly larger in diameter (literally 2-3 cm) and placed in a permanent place. The composition of the soil is the same, but with the addition of humus in an equal amount with peat.
  8. A year later, the calathea is transplanted again and looked after, like an adult plant.

Cuttings

A somewhat more time consuming method is cuttings. A healthy leaf or part of the shoot is carefully separated from the flower, making sure that there is a growing point on it. A correct stalk should be at least 12-15 cm long and have a minimum of 3-4 leaves.

For subsequent planting, it is important to choose the right cuttings.

The stalk is placed in a prepared pot with the same soil, which is prepared for calathea, propagated by division, and covered with plastic wrap. It is removed only when the plant has 3-4 roots.

Seed planting

Seed propagation is a process with unpredictable results. In this case, daughter plants with almost 100% probability will not retain their varietal characteristics. But it is very interesting to wait for the result of the selection carried out by himself.

Calathea seeds look like small yellowish balls

The seeds are harvested in the fall, after waiting until the flower stalks of the calathea are completely dry. They are dried in the open air for a couple of hours and planted in shallow containers filled with a mixture of fertile soil and river sand in a 2: 1 ratio. The optimum temperature for calathea seeds is 22-25 ° C... As soon as the first pair of leaves appears, the plants are planted in small pots (7-9 cm in diameter) filled with the same soil.

Even under ideal conditions, no more than half of the seeds will sprout.

Difficulties and mistakes of leaving

It is quite difficult to create ideal conditions at home on the windowsill for calathea. Therefore, it is important to know what is the cause of the most common plant problems.

Table: common problems and their causes

Symptom Cause
The tips of the leaves are removed or dried.Low air humidity.
Leaf tips yellowed or brownish, but not dry.
  • Improper feeding or excess fertilization. This is especially true for fertilizers with nitrogen content.
  • Another option is cold drafts.
The leaves curl into a tube, covered with spots lighter than the main tone of the leaf plate.Insufficiently moist soil. The plant needs more frequent watering.
Decaying at the base of the petiole or base of the leaves. The leaves just fall under their own weight.Insufficiently high room temperature and excessively high humidity.
Leaves fall.
  • Insufficient air humidity,
  • too much watering,
  • acidified soil.
Leaves dry.
  • Perhaps this is due to the natural cycle of development. Calathea changes foliage about once a year.
  • If at the same time the growth of the plant slows down, the symptom means insufficient watering and a lack of nutrients.
Light spots appear on the leaves.Direct sunlight on the plate. Or it is sunburn, formed in those places where large drops of water remained on the plant after spraying, which played the role of lenses.
Leaves become deformed, lighter, thinner and excessively stretchedThe plant lacks light.
Small white crystals on the underside of the leaves.If, at the same time, there are no cobwebs indicating a spider mite lesion, this is completely normal. On the back of the leaves, there are points of release of cell sap, which solidifies in the open air.

Video: the secrets of caring for a beautiful calathea

Calatheafrom the Marantovaya family is a perennial rhizome plant with very beautiful large elliptical or oval leaves that grow directly from the root rosette. The leaf plate of some types of calathea is decorated with an unusual pattern, visually reminiscent of a luxurious feather of a fairy bird or a pattern on a turtle shell (). Calathea leaves are so strong and durable that the Indians of Central and South America processed them in a special way in order to weave various baskets, household utensils and beautiful crafts from them.

It is believed that it is very difficult to organize home care for this amazing decorative leafy indoor plant and beginner growers rarely choose calathea for growing with their own hands, preferring plants that are easy to care for (for example, homemade rubber plant or Benjamin, dracaena Marginata or a similar yucca in the form of a small tree, Dollar Tree or Money Tree, spathiphyllum or anthurium). Nevertheless, among the different types of calathea (), you can find the least whimsical and not very demanding houseplants for home care: Calathea makoyana, Calathea orbifolia, Calathea bachemiana, Calathea Veicha (Сalathea Veitchiana), Calathea zebra-like (Calathea zebrina).

From this material you will learn how to properly organize caring for calathea at home, and photos of these luxurious indoor plants will help you choose. By the way, famous interior designers often choose calathea to form an original composition in a room or in the space of a home winter garden. Against the background of an elegant calathea with wide patterned leaves, it will be interesting to look at such popular and unpretentious flowers in care as the phalaenopsis orchid with unusual flowers, European or Persian cyclamen with petals in the form of sitting butterflies, violets (Saintpaulia), tuberous begonias with graceful multi-colored foxes and lush flowers.


- photo: calathea leaves -

By the way, representatives of the Marantaceae family delight many lovers of home plants not only with their beautiful leaves, but also with one interesting, very unique feature - in the late afternoon, these plants gradually begin to rise leaves until they take a vertical position, exposing the lower side of the leaf plate with a slightly different color. At dawn, the beautiful leaves drop again and take a horizontal position. Domestic calathea (as well as arrowroot, stromant and ktenanta) has other names - Prayer flower, praying plant, Prayer plant, since in the evening the leaves rise upward, which resembles the movement of a praying person.

Calathea rarely blooms at home, but there are species of this indoor plant that annually delight their owners with graceful unusual flowers during the flowering period. The flowers of Calathea crocata with bright orange petals are collected in lush inflorescences and are not inferior in beauty to wide dark green leaves with an interesting pattern (see photo below). And Varshevich's calathea during the flowering period is decorated with unusual flowers of cream, pink or white, collected in a spike-shaped inflorescence. Such flowers look very impressive against the background of dark green velvety oval-shaped leaves with a patterned pattern on top and with a burgundy color on the underside of the leaf plate.


- photo: calathea flower -

♦ WHAT IS IMPORTANT!

Location and lighting.

The plant pot can be placed on the windowsill on the west or east side of the room. But calathea will feel quite comfortable next to a window on a stand or on a rack with a shelf. You can place the pot even a little deeper into the room, since homemade calathea belongs to shade-tolerant plants. A good location option is partial shade, but keep in mind that due to lack of lighting, the pattern on the leaves may fade and the leaf plates themselves will grow more slowly. Calathea loves diffused light, as direct sunlight can cause burns and deform leaves. Therefore, in the spring and summer, be sure to shade the window panes.

Temperature conditions.

A moderate temperature is suitable for calathea without strong changes during the day. Be sure to keep the plant out of cold drafts and avoid direct airflow when ventilating the area in winter. The acceptable temperature range in spring and summer is 18-26 ° C, and in winter 16-23 ° C.

Air humidity.

A high level of humidity is the key to success when growing calathea at home. The higher the humidity (even 90%), the better. But in the room it is very difficult to constantly maintain a high level of humidity (the best option is 55-65%) and some growers place the plant in a volumetric florarium or glass aquarium. Another solution to the problem is to place an adjustable humidifier next to the plant. Be sure to spray the air around the calathea from a spray bottle (4-5 times a week) with warm, settled water, being careful not to get on the leaves. Plants with smooth leaves can be additionally wiped with a damp sponge, and plants with velvet leaves cannot be wiped, so place the pot on a pallet of expanded clay so that the soil does not come into contact with the water poured into the pallet.

Watering.

The quality of water for irrigation is the most important aspect of caring for calathea at home. The most ideal option is melt or clear rainwater. Tap water must be defended for several days. In no case do not water the plant with cold water - only room temperature or slightly higher! In the autumn-winter period, it is enough to water the plant once for 8 days, when the topsoil dries up. In the summer, you can water the plant 3 times a week. In no case should water stagnation at the root level be allowed, as they will begin to rot and the calathea may die.

Dredge and top dressing.

For planting a plant, a purchased substrate without lime admixture is quite suitable for growing homemade azaleas. But you can make a soil mixture yourself: mix leafy soil, peat and humus in a 1: 1: 1 ratio. Add clean river sand (about 0.5 parts).

Most types of calathea are sufficient to feed with a solution of liquid fertilizers for decorative deciduous crops (in a 1: 1 ratio with water) several times a month in spring and summer. Flowering species (K. saffron and K. Varshevich) should be additionally fed with special fertilizers for flowering indoor plants during the growing season.

Transfer.

Calathea should be transplanted once every two years into a new shallow pot (3-4 cm wider in diameter than the previous one), pouring a drainage layer of expanded clay onto the bottom.
It is advisable to transplant in early spring and very carefully so as not to damage the delicate roots.

Reproduction.

Calathea can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings. Seed propagation is very troublesome and not suitable for beginner growers.

Division of the bush. When dividing the bush, it is necessary to very carefully separate the parts of the rhizome so that each has several roots and several buds on the shoot. it is best to perform the procedure during plant transplantation. Delenki are planted in small pots with a diameter of about 9 cm. The soil mixture can be prepared as described above. The ideal temperature for growing seedlings is 22-24 ° C. It is desirable that the pots are in partial shade. Apply top dressing once every three weeks, and after a year you can transplant the plant into a suitable pot.

Cuttings.
Above ground cutting should be very carefully cut with a sharp knife so that growth points remain on the cutting and on the mother plant. The cuttings are planted in a small pot with moist soil and covered with foil. We remove the film after the stalk has sprouted (after 2-3 weeks).