Frame houses are very popular with developers. This is due to the fact that they are built in short terms, require a minimum of money, have excellent performance characteristics and are environmentally friendly.
If someone has a desire to start building just such a house, then in this article you can get information on how to do it. Here everything is scheduled in stages. At the same time, it means that all the preparatory, and most importantly, organizational measures have been carried out and a permit has been obtained to build a house. What does that require?
The foundation is selected at will and can be columnar, pile-screw, tape, etc. This article examines an example of building a frame house with a pile-screw type of foundation.
This type of foundation is suitable for those areas where there is loose or unstable soil. This type of foundation has several advantages, such as:
- There is no need to involve special equipment for its construction.
- The foundation is being erected in a short time: one day is enough to mount it.
- Huge selection of building materials (piles).
- The foundation has excellent load-bearing characteristics.
- This is a cheap foundation option compared to other types of foundations.
- The foundation is installed at any time of the year.
On a note! The presence of a pile-screw foundation does not allow equipping a basement in the house. This is a significant drawback of this option.
How to calculate the number of piles?
The piles must have the correct geometric shape and high quality blades. Suitable piles can be selected from the corresponding table.
Screw pile (pipe diameter) Installation step Application
219
3-10
Houses, piers, hangars
159
2-5
Similarly
133
2-5
Similarly
108
2-5
Heavy gates, piers, hangars, houses, fences
89
2-4
Can be used as additional piles, for houses, utility blocks
76
1-3
Light buildings, terraces, signs, traffic signs
59
0.5-2
Similarly
On a note! In conditions when the soil is clay, work should be carried out in dry, not rainy weather. The piles are installed strictly vertically.
In the case of using piles of large thickness, you will have to use the help of special equipment. If you choose the piles of the optimal diameter, then you can get by with your own efforts. In this case, it is much easier to decide on the same level of pile installation.
To begin with, the necessary markings are carried out on the site and the site is being prepared. It is desirable that it be horizontally flat and can serve as a kind of reference point for the depth of the piles.
The next step is to determine the perimeter of the future foundation. For this, metal rods are hammered at its corners, after which a rope is pulled between them. It is necessary to check that the future foundation has right angles.
First of all, piles are installed at the corners to a depth of at least 0.5 meters. Although it all depends on the type of soil. It is better to install piles together: one screws them in, and the second controls the verticality. Having installed the piles at the corners of the building, proceed to the installation of intermediate piles, which can be located at a distance of 0.7-1.2 meters from one another. All piles are screwed to the required depth, after which they proceed to leveling, concreting and mounting heads on the piles.
For this operation, beams of 150x150 mm, 200x200 mm and 200x250 mm in size will fit. Before laying the beams, the tops of the piles are coated with mastic and a couple of layers of roofing material are laid. This is the so-called waterproofing. The bars should be treated with an antiseptic.
The beams are mounted around the entire perimeter of the future building and are connected to each other in half a tree, by means of 120 mm long nails. All joints are reinforced with corners, which are fastened with nails 50-60 mm long.
The bars are attached to the base with screws, while they fit into special heads and are well attracted with screws.
On top of the harness, a board is laid on the beams, which will block the joints of the beams. In the future, vertical posts of the future frame will be mounted on this board. The board is nailed to the timber with nails 100-120 mm long.
The subfloor is mounted on logs measuring 100 x 150 mm, installed every 0.6 meters. The logs are connected to the harness by means of metal corners, after which a board is nailed onto the logs from above.
Insulation is laid in the openings between the logs, and a vapor barrier film is spread on it. After that, everything is covered with plywood. The plywood is taken thick and attached to the logs. To keep the floor level, the joists must be installed in the same horizontal plane.
For the installation of the frame, beams of the following dimensions are taken: 100x50 mm, 150x50 mm, 200x50 mm. First of all, vertical posts are installed at the corners of the structure. They are fastened securely using reinforced metal corners. After that, proceed to the installation of the remaining racks, which are attached similarly to the corner racks. Jibs are attached to all posts, which minimize loosening of the structure.
The upper beam is connected at the corners by cutting, and to other uprights using corners. For greater strength, diagonal slopes are installed.
They can be installed in three ways:
- Through cutting.
- With perforated brackets.
- With metal corners.
Alternatively, it is recommended to combine several methods at the same time. This can be the option of cutting and the option of using corners. Beams are installed directly on the upper strapping beam. Fastening can be done with self-tapping screws, but it is better to use nails, since they make it possible for the wood to expand freely when the humidity changes.
Roof installation is a rather laborious operation, which is worthy of a description in a separate article.
For this, a wide range of cladding materials is on sale, such as siding, timber simulants, artificial stone, etc. The work is carried out in the following order:
- At the first stage, a lathing made of wooden beams with a size of 40x50 mm is installed. The pitch of the lathing is 0.6 m. Alternatively, a metal profile CD-60 from plasterboard systems will go.
- If the lathing is made of wood, then it is advisable to cover it with an antiseptic and fire-resistant material.
- After the crate is ready, proceed to the installation of the facing material.
In the process of work, one should not forget about the insulation of a residential building. As a rule, everything is subject to insulation: floor, roof and walls. Do not forget about the vapor barrier film.
The building is almost ready, it only remains to carry out the interior decoration of the living space. You can take advantage of many options here, especially since each room requires its own approach. And such rooms as a bathroom and a kitchen are subject to exceptional finishes.
Photo report of the construction of a frame house on their own
Here you can see in stages the construction of a frame house with your own hands on weekends.
Why is low-rise frame construction becoming more in demand every year, regardless of the technology used (Swedish or Canadian)?
In the construction of a frame house, coniferous trees are used: spruce, pine, fir.
The answer lies in the simplicity of the construction technology itself, in the effective use of building materials, and, importantly, in saving money for construction (low cost of housing).
The demand for frame-type houses is so great that many begin the construction of such a house, mastering the latest achievements of building technologies on their own.
And in fact, all the builders' expectations justify themselves, because this process is not so complicated as it might seem at first. Because the technology does not require special technical knowledge.
Houses that are made on the basis of a frame are quite durable. Living in such a house for a family will be comfortable and cozy all year round.
Consider building a frame for building a house with your own hands, starting with laying the foundation. You need to get down to business only after you have a drawing with a house project in your hands.
What types of wood are best used for the frame?
Coniferous trees are mainly used: spruce, pine, fir. This is due to the fact that conifers contain resins. Therefore, their resistance to moisture and decay is much higher than that of hardwoods. Fir and spruce are assembled together and supplied together due to the similarity of their natural properties. Pine is considered the most resistant to weathering.
Larch is not used for the reason that it is not entirely suitable, since it easily cracks when nails are driven into it. Hardwood is more difficult to process due to the abundance of a large number of knots, although it is denser and less susceptible to swelling and shrinkage. Hardwood is used to create small fasteners such as dowels and wedges.
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Laying the foundation for the frame
Diagram of the foundation of a frame house.
Any construction of a house begins with the construction of a foundation for future construction. For lightweight houses (houses from a frame are just such), it is not rational to equip deeply laid foundations. The most optimal options for a base for a frame house are: tape shallow depth, columnar, prefabricated from blocks. Such foundations are designed to perform an important function - creating a rigid frame in space. This is achieved in different types of bases using:
- durable and reliable reinforcement in the tape type;
- monolithic grillage in a columnar foundation;
- strong and reliable attachment to all reinforced concrete blocks of the lower strapping.
Let us dwell in more detail on the pillar method of laying the base from pipes.
- Holes are made in the ground 1 m deep, 20 cm in diameter, at a distance of about 70 cm from each other along the perimeter of the future building.
- Asbestos pipes (1.5 m high) are inserted into the prepared recesses.
- The pipes are carefully covered with earth from all sides.
- Pour the concrete mixture inside.
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Materials for arranging the frame of the house
- Lumber (wood is better from conifers: pine, fir, spruce; deciduous - oak) - a bar with a section of 150 by 150 mm.
- Antiseptic.
- Regular roofing material without UV stabilization and dressing (it is cheaper).
Fasteners:
- 10 kg of nails (100 mm - 3 kg, 120 mm - 5 kg, 50 mm - 1 kg);
- self-tapping screws: 100 mm - 500 pieces, 50 mm - 100 pieces.
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Tools and equipment:
Tools required for work: tape measure, level, hammer, hand saw, screwdriver.
- circular saw (or chain saw);
- miter saw (desirable);
- puncher;
- tape measure (short and long);
- screwdriver;
- hacksaw;
- ax;
- hammer;
- pliers;
- shovel, scrap;
- chopping cord;
- level;
- jigsaw;
- electric planer;
- set of construction pencils.
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How to make a frame for a house?
The preliminary stage of work involves preparation for construction.
At the initial stage, lumber must be prepared and treated with an antiseptic. You need to buy roofing material and all the necessary fasteners (nails, screws). Prepare the tool. It is necessary to outline in advance the thickness of the insulation for the floor, walls, floors, in order to exclude an increase in the size of the frame.
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How to fix the lower strapping bars?
Scheme of fastening a bar of the lower strapping.
First, roofing material is laid on the grillage. After 7 days after the foundation has stood, you can begin to assemble the frame along it. Although concrete will gain full strength only after 28 days. But 7 days is enough for safe work on the hardening substrate.
Next, it is necessary (before starting laying the timber) to measure the evenness of the horizontal plane of the grillage using a level. Waterproofing and timber can be installed if it is perfectly flat. If there are irregularities:
- less than 1 cm - you need to put planks under the beams, since the solution of this thickness will not grasp enough with the frame and will crumble over time;
- more than 1 cm - they are leveled with a cement mortar and allowed to stand for a week, then the waterproofing and the lower strapping bar are attached.
The bars of the lower harness are docked with each other by sampling at the corners. There are quite a few different sampling options. It is recommended to use 2: paw pick and half-tree pick. Both are tried and true options. Any of them can be used.
Algorithm for joining beams by sampling at corners
The bars are fixed to each other at the corner joints. You can use the method of connecting the bars with an anchor, which also attaches the bars of the lower strapping to the base.
For this, the bars are connected together with nails (length at least 150 mm). There should be 4 nails for each corner. They need to be positioned by making an indent of 1.5 or 2 cm from the edge of the timber.
Overlapping scheme of a frame house.
A hole is drilled at the junction of the bars, with a diameter of at least 20 mm. Using a hammer, a wooden dowel is driven into the hole (a pin made of dried oak). Its protruding part above the surface of the timber should remain 8-10 cm for fastening the frame racks in the future. The diameter of the pin must match the diameter of the hole. The dowel can be either round or square. Square - with a side slightly larger than the size of the hole.
Fastening with a dowel of the strapping lower bar
As with each other, the tie-down beams are attached to the foundation. If at the stage of concreting the grillage for the strapping bars, studs were laid, then the anchors will not be needed. In this case, you can start by drilling holes in the timber for the studs in those places that will coincide with the location of the concreted studs. The stage described below should be skipped and proceed directly to the works outlined in the next part.
Anchor bolts with a diameter of 16 mm will come in handy if the studs were not provided when laying the foundation. The anchor must go into the foundation to a depth of at least 100 mm. It is very easy to calculate the length of the anchor: add 100 mm to the height of the strapping bottom bar. For example, if the height of the strapping is 100 mm, then 100 + 100 \u003d 200.
Anchoring the bottom harness
In the hardened concrete of the grillage, holes are drilled for anchors. Then holes are drilled in the strapping boards at the locations of the bolts.
With the help of nuts with volumetric washers, the timber is attached to the foundation. The washer increases the area in which the nut contacts the tree. Drowning in wood can be caused by using nuts without washers. And this is completely undesirable. The nut must have 6 faces so that it can be tightened with a wrench. An unacceptable option is a square and round screwdriver nut.
In the corner, the anchor is installed at the junction of the lower strapping beams in the event that the corner connection of the beams is not fastened with pins and nails. If fastened, then the first anchors are installed on the conditional line of continuation of the inner contour of the base frame. And then - between the corners on the boards, making a step of 1-1.2 m.The step can be a larger gap, but not more than 2.4 m.Another important rule: at least 2 bolts must be installed on one lower strapping bar , regardless of the length of the wall itself (even if it is short).
It is imperative to check the corners, diagonals and levels of the strapping bar. Small irregularities on the upper surface can be smoothed out with an electric plane.
After installing the strapping bars from the bottom side, attaching them to the foundation and fastening them together, you can proceed to mounting the frame racks vertically.
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Installing racks vertically
Installation diagram of the vertical racks of the frame.
Installation of racks in the corners
The corner posts of the frame are installed first. Their section must be different from the section of other racks. The type of fastening of the posts in the corners will depend on what the lower strapping bars were fastened with.
- If the connection of the timber at the corners was made with an anchor or nails, then the corner post is attached using steel corners. Reinforced corners are selected for this.
- If the strapping bar was fastened with a dowel. In this case, the released ends (up to 10 cm) of wood dowels should have remained. On these pins, you need to fit the corner posts of the frame.
For this purpose, a hole is drilled in the lower end of the post with a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the dowel (d is 20 mm or more). The hole depth is large by 1 cm (9-11 cm). We put each rack on a dowel and prop it up with temporary jibs. Temporary jibs are required when attaching the rack to a corner using steel corners.
Installation of intermediate racks
Panel structure diagram.
It is necessary to choose the method of mounting the racks.
2 options are suitable: the first (more economical) is the cutting method (cutting into the floor or full cutting). The second - with the help of galvanized steel corners (about 2 mm thick). The second option is considered more reliable, faster and simpler, since the bottom strapping bar remains solid, without being weakened by post cuttings. But this option is also more expensive, since the cost of fasteners affects the estimate.
Attaching the corners does not present any difficulties: for this they use galvanized self-tapping screws for wood or non-galvanized ones, if you cannot buy the first ones.
Let us consider in more detail the fastening of the frame racks by the cutting method.
Marking is made on the lower harness bar and grooves on its basis in accordance with the dimensions of the rack and a height of 30-50% of the thickness of the lower harness bar. If a 100 mm thick bar is selected, then the cutting depth will be 30 or 50 mm.
Non-corner racks also need to be fastened with temporary jibs, regardless of the chosen method of fastening. You can install 1 long jib, grabbing several racks at once, or install 2 short jibs to each rack. The use of temporary jibs is caused by the need to create stability of the strut-bottom harness connection so that it does not loosen even before the top harness is arranged and permanent jibs are installed.
If the layout of the frame for all the walls was not done in advance (it was planned to carry out work without a drawing), then at this stage it is necessary to sketch the location of the walls and the dimension of the important elements of the frame. This is necessary in order to determine the spacing of the racks at the location of door and window openings. Since here it may differ from the usual one.
It is important to take into account that if fastening with corners was used, then the height of the floor will be equal to the height of the vertical rack. When using the cutting method, the floor height is less than the vertical post by 2 cutting depths.
The technology of constructing rapidly erected buildings is very popular. This topic is constantly discussed on construction forums and causes a lot of controversy. The pros and cons of frame houses will help form a general idea of \u200b\u200bthe method, get acquainted with the stages of building objects.
Based on the experience of European countries, there is no doubt that soon frame-panel houses will become leaders in low-rise construction. Compared to traditional construction systems, the technology has its own advantages, the main one of which is efficiency. The financial aspect is one of the stimulating factors for acquiring your own home. The cost of 1 sq. m less than one and a half times less foam concrete blocks, 2.4 times brick walls, 1.4 times less timber.
The frame-panel constructor is assembled by the efforts of 4 people in 1.5 months. According to this principle, it is permissible to build an object of any complexity up to 3 floors. In addition, building a frame house with your own hands will save on the foundation, equipment, and a team of workers.
The disadvantages include:
- Moisture absorption.
- Risk of fire.
- Poor ventilation.
- Vibration sensitivity.
- Fragility.
There is a misconception that only brick, panel or wooden walls keep heat well. However, according to the current thermal protection standards, modern buildings in some regions do not meet standard requirements. Canadian houses with walls of 150 mm in terms of thermal protection coefficient are equivalent to double block masonry and are quite suitable for living. In cold weather, when the heating is turned off, the rooms maintain a normal temperature for a long time.
Temporary or permanent residence determines the thickness of the frame house. If housing is planned for a seasonal stay, there is no need to purchase expensive insulation. Accordingly, the thickness of the walls will be slightly less. For a comfortable microclimate, a substrate of 10-15 cm is sufficient. If we are talking about permanent housing, the material is laid in a thick layer - more than 15 cm. Ultimately, the wall is 20 cm without taking into account the outer and inner cladding.
How to correctly calculate the thickness of a frame house
For this purpose, there is a special table with indicators for each region. Insert into the formula:
- insulation thickness parameters;
- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material;
- calculate the parameter.
You can carry out the calculations yourself using our construction calculators.
When ordering a house kit at the factory, calculations are performed on site, and plates with an increased margin of safety are offered to the customer. Many people think that if they are thick, the insulation does not need to be laid. This is a delusion - without a high-quality substrate, the cost of a heating resource increases significantly. The walls of a frame building should resemble a layer cake. Thanks to the air cushion between them, even in cold weather, the house remains warm.
A do-it-yourself frame house is built using Finnish or Canadian technologies. The process algorithm is the same and consists of several stages:
- Purchases of materials.
- Base fillings.
- Bottom strapping of the foundation.
- Erection of walls, roofs.
- Installation of windows and doors.
- Wall cladding and insulation.
- Interior decoration.
To avoid heat loss and ensure good ventilation, it is important to adhere to an adapted technology during the construction of the facility.
How to build a frame house: pouring the foundation
The pre-fabricated structure is lightweight, so it makes no sense to build a powerful base. Depending on the type of soil and the number of storeys of the building, choose between:
- columnar;
How to make strapping and logs
The next are the transverse logs. Boards with a cross section of 150 x 50 mm, turned on the sides, with a pitch of 40 cm with oblique nails of 9 cm, are nailed to the end and the lower beam on the left and right. If they are long, but a transverse beam is laid, jumpers 45 cm long are stuffed on top.
Flooring
After the installation of the lathing, a waterproofing film is laid between the cells, and a heater is placed on it. The budget option is expanded polystyrene from 15 kg / m3 with a thickness of 150 mm. The insulation is cut with a hacksaw, laid in 2 layers. The material is distributed so that the edges of the second-row canvases do not coincide with the first, otherwise the sheets will move. To fix the foam at the bottom of the lattice around the perimeter, a cutting bar 50 x 50 mm is stuffed. The seams are blown out with polyurethane foam.
The material is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, then the flooring is built. For the subfloor, choose plywood, tongue-and-groove boards or cheap OSB-3 boards. The canvases are covered across the grate. For reliability, the sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern or perpendicular to the lags.
The flooring is fastened to the logs with 50 mm self-tapping screws or brushed nails. First, glue is applied to the back of the sheets, then nailed every 15 cm along the edge and with a step of 30 cm in the middle. A gap of 3 mm is left between the segments on all sides.
Now for the construction of walls you need a frame: wood or steel. A popular solution is oak beams, larch or other wood with a dense structure. Such constructions are one third cheaper than their metal counterparts. Before installation, they are planed, treated with impregnations against fire, decay, and pests.
Installation of vertical racks
How to build a frame house so that you can live in it for a long time without repairs? Follow the sequence of stages and take into account all construction nuances. This primarily concerns the fastening of parts. When erecting the skeleton, corner posts are first installed. If pins are selected for the connection, they retreat from the edges to 10 cm, holes are made at the end that exceed the length of the dowel by 1 cm, the beam is vertically attached.
Now choose the method of fastening the intermediate longitudinal struts. The first one is fixation to the strapping with a partial or full cut, or connection with galvanized corners. The second method is simpler and more reliable, although it increases the cost of the project.
The principle of installing the upper rails is similar to that of the lower trim. Horizontal structures are joined at the corners with vertical posts, connected with 2 nails and corners.
How to build walls
How to make a frame house: first assemble the spans on the ground, then lift them up or assemble them on the spot? Usually they are already ready-made attached to the lower base. The first span is nailed to the floor and supported with jibs, the second is connected to the rack of the first and so on along the perimeter.
Regardless of the principle of connecting the racks, they are reinforced with temporary jibs. This strengthens the lower harness until the installation of permanent supports, giving the frame rigidity and resistance to wind loads. After installation of all structures:
- the skeleton is measured out with a plumb line and level;
- temporary props are removed;
- to each support, 2 strips are screwed on top and bottom.
Windows, doors
Door and window openings are installed in places according to the project. First, racks are fixed on the sides of the niches, then the jumpers at the top and bottom. Internal partitions are mounted in the same way as the frame, they are tied with boards for rigidity.
Ceiling
The process consists of several stages:
- Grooves for beams are cut in the timber.
- Transverse structures are inserted into the openings, nailed, steel corners are screwed.
- Inside, supports are installed along the partitions, connected to the upper and lower bars.
- A ceiling panel is laid from grooved boards.
- Lay a vapor barrier layer, a heater and a waterproofing membrane on top.
- Build a sub-floor.
Roof
For the device, choose: an attic, multi-gable, single-slope or multi-slope roof with a slope of 10 °. To calculate the rafters and step lathing, use construction tables or ours.
- The rafters are collected from the bottom of the bar. To do this, 2 boards are spliced \u200b\u200btogether at the top at an angle, then lifted into place.
- First, the rafter pairs are installed on gables with an overhang of 400-500 mm.
- The slope of the ramp is adjusted, the structures are mounted to the upper harness.
- The rest of the system is installed with a step of 700 mm.
- Then they are integrated with a ridge bar, which serves as a support for the upper rafters, and are attached to the floor of the paw.
- They build a solid or rare crate with a section of 25 x 30 cm, fix it on the rafters with side locks. The pitch of the beams is the same as for the rafters.
A vapor barrier membrane is fastened to the inside of the rafter legs with a stapler. The joints are sealed with tape, the space between the beams is filled with heat-insulating plates, then a diffuse film. At the finishing stage, the roof is laid. The process algorithm is clearly shown in the picture.
Wall insulation
Choose a protective material with a thickness of 50 mm: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or foam.
- Mats are laid between the vertical posts of the frame. With double decking, the joints of the canvases should not coincide. To protect against moisture, waterproofing is laid on the outside.
- Then the crate is filled with thin strips corresponding to the thickness of the insulation. This will provide air movement.
- From the side of the rooms, stretch the vapor barrier, fix it with a stapler. The walls are clad with thick plywood, gypsum fiber sheets or clapboard. The base for plasterboard finishing is ready.
- Outside, the walls are sheathed with finishing materials: block house, siding, eurolining.
It remains to refine the house inside and celebrate the housewarming. There are a great many nuances in the construction of prefabricated frame-panel houses. Experience and knowledge will come in the process.
Full video how to build a frame house
Turnkey frame houses are offered by many construction organizations, but what is a prefabricated structure? The future owner of a low-rise building would like to know in more detail the pros and cons of a frame house. We will try to gradually determine the effectiveness of the construction and identify the shortcomings. We will understand the applied thermal insulation materials and construction technology.
In recent years, a residential building called “ frame house ", is becoming more and more popular. Installation organizations have in their arsenal standard projects of frame houses, and also offer individual construction. Currently, there is no perfect construction technology that would be superior to others and itself would not have obvious drawbacks.
However, according to statistics, houses are most often built from a frame. In the domestic (and not only) construction market, obvious advantages were able to ensure demand for frame houses, even despite some small disadvantages.
Houses under construction are attracted by the fact that on a ready-made basis it is possible to build in record time. Only two people, having a frame house project in their arsenal, are able to independently build a frame house within about a month. Taking into account the fact that inexperienced builders will build it.
DIY frame house without lifting mechanisms
And all thanks to the step-by-step assembly - the repetition of simple steps. Only one thing is important - to know how to correctly assemble each of the nodes. With instructions and understanding of the construction principle, anyone can assemble a house from a frame.
Construction frame house also attracts with its low cost. The specific amount depends on the size of the house and the building materials used (type of wood and finishes). One way or another, this option is rightfully considered one of the available and financially budgetary.
What are frame houses?
Frame houses are a special type of construction, where all the supporting parts are closely related to each other. This type of construction of low-rise buildings has gained great popularity in America, Germany and the countries of the East.
It is noteworthy that in the cities of Germany, frame buildings began to be built nine centuries ago. By now, some of the details have undergone many changes, but the basic principle of operation has remained the same as it was centuries ago.
At the very beginning, the main structure of a bar is built, which is gradually filled with heat-insulating materials and sheathed with protective elements.
Technology and construction of frame houses
The basic principle of the technology for the construction of frame buildings is a stable frame and fillers with a low price and thermal conductivity. Basically, such a structure is made of wood or metal.
Accordingly, beams, boards or zinc-coated steel are used for this. And to sheathe the walls, they usually take an oriented or
Thermal insulation components used:
- Wood fiber wool;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Cellulose ecowool.
Typical, multi-layer insulation scheme for frame houses The most common option among builders of private houses in the Russian Federation is basalt. It has many advantages, including:
- Long service life;
- Non-flammability;
- Excellent sound insulation;
- Moisture repelling.
Honestly deserved the "Silver Medal". It is used for the production of sandwich panels, for the construction of frame-panel houses using western technology. The top three are closed by environmentally friendly cellulose wool.
There are only three methods for the construction of low-rise buildings:
- ... The plant produces panels of the same type, consisting of a pair of sheets of oriented strand boards and a layer of expanded polystyrene between these panels. Shields are cut out at the site of the proposed construction. Houses made of vulture panels are often becoming an alternative, displacing frame panel houses.
- ... OSB is cut into boards of the required size during production. Already at the place of construction, they are sewn onto the frame and insulation is carried out.
- German. Frame - panel houses are made of panels prepared at the plant. They are brought to the construction site with glazed window frames and ready-made door panels.
The first couple of options can do without unnecessary equipment - several people can handle them. As for the assembly of a building from huge shields, here you will already have to involve a crane in the work.
Panel panel house on a screw foundation Insulation of a frame house
As for the interior arrangement of walls, houses from the frame are panel or frame. The first type is a kind of constructor, from parts compiled in production, which you just need to assemble into a single whole. Frame frame houses mean the installation of a skeleton from metal or wooden profiles, as well as cladding and thermal insulation.
Frame houses are subject to mandatory insulation The use of the latest technology allows you to fully control the quality of materials and the entire assembly process. Each of the stages. In contrast, much less time is spent on the construction of panel houses. The only thing worth carefully monitoring is the quality of the purchased shields.
The walls of typical private houses consist of many layers, including:
- OSB or DSP boards on both sides;
- A special lattice that forms;
The frame with internal insulation can be single or paired. In areas with a mild climate or for a summer residence that is not intended for permanent residence, the first option is also quite suitable.
The thickness of such walls is up to ten centimeters. In areas with cold winters, it will be better to get thick walls - fifteen centimeters or thicker.
The self-supporting insulated wire is filled with expanded polystyrene, and at the ends - the bars. Their presence will make it possible to manage with a less powerful foundation during the construction process. SIP boards take partly the load.
The main advantages and disadvantages of frame low-rise houses
Currently, frame buildings are very popular, and all thanks to the short construction period, reliable construction and relatively low costs of building materials. Nevertheless, frame houses include pros and cons about which the owners' reviews tell.
frame house on stilts - photo of stage construction Such a house, with a strong desire and the presence of the necessary skills, can even be built independently. Of course, all these indisputable advantages inspire many enthusiasts to lean towards this particular option of a private house.
But we must not forget that frame buildings, for all their quality, have some disadvantages that should not be ignored. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of this building in more detail.
Frame houses pluses:
1. An excellent prospect to hide and lay electrical and plumbing communications right in the walls;
2. High rate of construction construction;
3. Low level of thermal conductivity - frame houses are very warm and lose, perhaps, to a log house;
4. Finishing can be started immediately after the roofing work;
5. Low weight of the structure, p the edge does not shrink;
6. Cheap construction work. Panel cladding of the frame will cost several times less than brick walls.
7. Lack of seasonality. Frame houses can be built all year round.
8. Improved wall insulation. The cavity between the wooden studs provides ample space for insulation.
9. Speed \u200b\u200band budget of construction. Timber framed walls are much faster to build and, in the case of complex structures and window configurations, are much cheaper. Among other things, it is much easier to lay utility lines through the wall.
The basic advantage of this design is the overall lightness of the entire home. This, in turn, allows, in most cases, to carry out construction work without the presence of special equipment.
a frame house is indistinguishable from ordinary buildings and is suitable for year-round living A massive foundation is not required for frame houses, there is no need to lay it as deep as under a brick house. In a similar ratio, only aerated concrete blocks compete with frame houses sheathed with insulated wooden panels.
Frame houses cons
Now about the disadvantages of frame houses. Although there are relatively few of them, it is still worth mentioning them:
- The project proposal must necessarily come from organizations with extensive experience. Otherwise, you can not even think about the durability and strength of the frame, which is the "skeleton" of your home;
- If the house does not have forced ventilation, be prepared for the fact that the room will be quite stuffy;
- Expanded polystyrene, like polyurethane foam, is not environmentally friendly materials;
- Lumber is flammable and this is also worth considering;
- Frame buildings are much less resistant to snowstorms and strong winds than concrete. "Frameworks" made of wood, like concrete structures, must be tested for compliance with the same building standards for sustainability. And yet, wooden buildings are lighter.
- You will often have to face attacks from termites and ants, because they have a much higher wood content. Prevention in the form of special traps, baits and antiseptics will help protect your building from pests.
- A frame house is not as resistant to water penetration. The outer layer of the timber frame building is covered with a moisture resistant shield that carefully hides all openings. But if water penetrates a wall from a tree, it will damage it much more than a wall of concrete or brickwork.
Video review - the pros and cons of a frame house:
If we talk about the fire safety of wood, this can only apply to untreated frames. If the wood is impregnated with a special substance, it will be too tough for fire.
In most cases, all the disadvantages of frame buildings are attributed mainly due to gross mistakes of the builders. Or due to inexperience in the details of the construction technology. Even far-fetched ones happen among such minuses.
The main problem that residents of houses from a frame face every now and then is stuffy rooms. The walls of such a house, indeed, almost do not allow air to pass through. On the one hand, this is a significant savings in heating costs. On the other hand, it is necessary to install forced ventilation.
The main threat to the frame building is called:
- Wood rot;
- Termites;
- Hurricanes.
In the last few decades, fires have also been added to them. Including cases when a fire happened in a forest, near residential buildings.
Modern technology in the construction of frame buildings
The technique of erecting frame structures allows you to build a house in the shortest possible time, with a relatively small estimate. If you build the same house out of concrete, beams or brickwork, the same building will end up being much more expensive. But you can live in such a private house for up to a hundred years!
frame panel houses construction technology On the other hand, a lot here can also depend on details, among which are the quality of the material and the climatic conditions in the area of \u200b\u200bconstruction.
It is worth remembering that the main danger for a frame house is water. No matter how hard you try to protect the wood from water, it will not work 100%.
photo of frame houses using Canadian technology from vulture panels Advanced frame houses are always an optimal engineering design. They are fully in line with the intended goal of reducing the amount of lumber used and generate the least amount of waste during construction.
wooden frame of the house Modern building methods that use frame houses increase energy efficiency by replacing lumber with insulating material while maintaining the structural integrity of the house.
Thermal insulation of a frame house, made according to the technology, improves the value of thermal conductivity by reducing the thermal bridge through the framing and maximizing the insulated wall area.
A frame house in most cases is a structure in which load-bearing beams and columns are used. Along the perimeter it is sheathed with wood-based material, for example, clapboard, plywood sheets, OSB or chipboard. The gaps between the wooden slabs are filled with any available filler, which at the same time plays the role of insulation. It can be polystyrene or its derivatives, polyurethane foam, mineral wool and other insulation materials.
Review and planning of the construction scheme of a frame house
The use of blocks and columns made of wood makes it possible to do without cranes and winches during construction. And the absence of bricks or cement slabs and blocks in the structure makes the structure light enough, which eliminates the need to lay a solid solid foundation.
But, when choosing the type of foundation, you need to be guided not only by the weight of the building, but also by the type of soil on which the house will be built. If the soil is heavy, clayey, then you can not do without. If there is enough sand in the soil, then you can get by with a shallow strip or columnar foundation. If there is any doubt about what kind of soil is at the site of the proposed construction, then you can contact the local architectural office. But, it is better not to neglect the foundation. Do not forget that construction will be carried out from materials of wood origin, which, even with the appropriate water-repellent impregnation and treatment, absolutely do not need unnecessary contact with water.
There are two ways to build a frame house with your own hands:
- build from ready-made fully equipped blocks produced by the plant;
- construction is carried out completely independently. In this case, not blocks are used, but source materials.
Let's consider the second option in more detail.
Building any home starts with a plan or project. And for a frame building, an exception should not be made. When drawing up a plan, all the features are taken into account, the required amount of material is calculated. It is not worth neglecting the planning stage, so that the construction stage is not subsequently impeded by the discrepancy between the dimensions of the beams or cladding material. You can choose a typical project, which has already taken into account all the nuances. If you want a house not typical, but individual, then it is better to entrust the design stage to a specialist. The project must contain floor plans, a drawing of the foundation, roof and floors.
Laying the foundation
The construction of any home begins with laying the foundation. As mentioned above, the type of foundation should be determined by the type of soil. If the soil is not clayey, prone to creeping, then a strip, columnar or screw foundation can be laid. The latter option is suitable for almost all types of soil.
It is worth giving preference to this type of foundation also because, if necessary, it is easy to repair it, and good ventilation under the building is provided. To improve waterproofing, roofing material is laid between the foundation piles and the base of the house, preferably in two layers.
The period after laying the foundation
After laying the foundation, at least a month must pass before construction begins. This time is needed for shrinkage. During this time, you need to carry out all the preparatory work before starting the main construction.
To build a house you need to purchase:
- material for waterproofing between the foundation and the house. Most often it is roofing material in several layers;
- lumber, from which the house will be built directly. The length of the beams must be chosen in accordance with the dimensions of the entire house. And the selected thickness will further determine the thickness of the walls;
- fasteners in the form of screws, dowels, brackets, anchor bolts and others;
- means for antiseptic wood treatment;
- foam and mineral wool for insulation;
- facing material. It can be plywood sheets, OSB or chipboard;
- house roof material (waterproofing materials, lumber, roofing material, insulation);
- superdiffusion membrane designed for vapor barrier walls. You can add the usual vapor barrier.
Erection of the frame
After the pillars or foundation tape have been laid and the set deadline has been met, you can attach the lower strapping from above. To do this, boards are laid out on the foundation and fixed with anchor bolts. The number of joints should be kept to a minimum.
The foundation has been laid out, the lower strapping is done. The frame can be installed. It can be made of wood or iron. The latter option will be more expensive, but more reliable. For its assembly, you can use welding or steel fasteners in the form of staples.
If a tree is chosen as the basis, then all parts must be treated with an antiseptic before starting work, and wooden pins should be used as fastening not iron bolts or staples. If desired, the frame can be assembled not on the foundation, but separately, and then securely attached to the foundation.
You need to assemble the frame from the corners. The corners are made in pairs, strong connection of the boards. After the corners are outlined, the places of future doors and window openings are marked. It is not necessary to put upright stands too often. The distance between them should be determined by the width of the insulating material. It is worth remembering that the uprights will not be covered with insulation. The cold will pass in these places. For greater stability, vertical beams or posts are reinforced with braces.
Once all the uprights have been installed and aligned, you can install the ceiling crown for the first floor if multiple floors are expected.
The installation of the roof frame begins, like all other installation work, from the corners. The ends of the roof frame are attached to the slabs. The roof itself is most often in the shape of a triangle. The distance between the rafters is also best correlated with the width of the insulation or material that will be used as a covering. You can also assemble the roof frame on the ground, and then install it on the house.
Sheathing
House cladding options can be very different: lining, siding, block house. In any case, the waterproofing material is laid before sheathing. It is overlapped with a margin of 20-30 cm.
First, the walls are sheathed with the selected material, then the roof and windows are inserted. Floors are laid last. Boards are sewn under the laid logs, then all the gaps between the logs and the laid board are filled with insulation. Insulation, if possible, can be made in two layers: first, foam, and on top of mineral wool (). After the insulation is completely laid, floor boards are laid. They should be laid perpendicular to the lags. The top can be sheathed with plywood or OSB boards for a smooth floor.
After the floors have been laid, the interior wall cladding can be done. First, all the gaps between vertical and horizontal lags are filled with insulation. Then a vapor barrier film is applied on top. Only after that is sheathing with clapboard or plywood. For greater stability of the walls, you can install internal jibs, both for external and intermediate walls.