Brick stoves fireplaces for home on wood. Review of Russian brick ovens for the home. Is it only in the house

Brick stoves are a source of a healthy atmosphere and fresh air (thanks to the draft and constant renewal of air in the room), there is no need for additional installation of radiators, such structures accumulate heat well and warm the air simultaneously in several rooms.

Firewood is cheap as fuel, especially if your house is located in a suburban area. And harvesting them yourself is very good for your health.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all the instructions, observe the masonry technology, monitor the horizontal rows and verticality of the walls. This will avoid skewing the structure and possible damage.

The optimal location of the oven is in the center of the house.

• Heating;
• For cooking (predecessors of modern stoves);
• Cooking and heating (combination of the two previous models);
• Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

It is advisable to build construction in the summer, at a constant air temperature.

For construction you will need: 220 pieces of brick, three doors for the furnace (13x13 centimeters), a clean door (14x14 cm), a cast iron plate (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a latch (27x13 cm), a sheet of asbestos cement, a grate - grate (20x30 cm), a strip of steel 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, be sure to build a foundation. We choose the type of foundation after examining the type of soil and the level of groundwater. We are waiting for the complete solidification of the foundation and proceed to construction.

We print the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended to lay out the oven without mortar as a training in order to avoid mistakes in the future. The rows will be numbered along the masonry for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips and cracks). Soak the bricks in water.

1. We lay out the first two rows according to the drawing, solid. This requires 10 bricks for each row.
2. In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we attach it to the wire and special metal fasteners).
3. 4: we build this row, checking the order, building up the walls.
4. 5: we are building a brick floor above the blower door, we are laying the grate grate (do not forget to leave a small gap from the metal grate grate to the brickwork, we pour sand into the gap).
5. Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the furnace door. We make the construction of the sixth row, clamping the fastening of the door with bricks.
6. Seventh and eighth row - we build up the walls, observing the order, again referring to the drawing.
7. In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating an overlap above it. In this row, we begin to build a smoke collector and finish it by the eleventh row.
8. To separate the cooking zone and the smoke channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on the edge. We fix the cast iron hob (row number 12).
9. From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row we lay out the bricks "on the edge". We cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
10. Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
11. In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we put a cleaning door, we increase the walls of the furnace.
12. Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
13. The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace, tying the previous row).
14. The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of the cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation.
15. After that, we install the oven, and up to 27 rows we make the masonry according to the drawing. In rows 27 and 28, we leave a space between the bricks to clean the furnace.
16. Then we make a complete overlap of the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
17. We construct a chimney from the thirty-second row and bring the chimney out onto the street.

How to light a brick stove with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If they are, cover with a clay solution. We clean the stove from combustion products. We prepare firewood. We warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the blower door ajar for air access. For uniform burning of firewood with a teddy poker in the process of burning. It is optimal to add firewood after the formation of the first coals.

We make a wood-burning stove for the house: Instructions for building a brick stove

Such a stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of \u200b\u200b30-40 sq.m.

The stove has three vertical smoke ducts. Their length is more than four meters. It has two heating modes - summer and winter.

For work we acquire:

• solid ceramic bricks of the M175 brand - 400 pieces;
• refractory bricks - 20 pieces (ШБ8);
• two-burner cast iron stove 70x40 cm;
• valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
• furnace door 27x30 cm;
• blower doors 2 pieces 15x16 cm;
• masonry tools (trowels, mortar containers, etc.).

We build the foundation for the stove and proceed to laying out the first row. It is the most important because it defines the dimensions of the oven. The thickness of the vertical seams is no more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fire-fighting cut.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install the blower door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future, the combustion chamber will be lined with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we make the cleaning door fasteners and the formation of the lower horizontal channel.

The fifth row: we block the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of the horizontal channel and the fire separation between the oven and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we overlap the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see the resulting two vertical smoke channels 12x12 cm.

Let's designate the left channel with the number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one - with the number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the stove in winter). The dimensions of the discharge channel are 25X12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form channels and install the fire door.

Eighth row: we tie row number seven and form the second vertical oven channel.

We put the summer speed valve. If you open it, the smoke will directly enter the chimney without overheating the room excessively. If the valve is closed, the flue gases will enter channel number 3 and pass along a long path, warming up the entire structure of the furnace and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We are preparing a support for the installation of the fire door lock.

The tenth row: we close the furnace door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. Here the flue gases will pass from the second channel to the first one when the furnace is in winter mode.

Cut out slots for the grate from fireclay bricks and put them inside the furnace. We insulate the back wall with mineral wool.

There are many options for heating a summer cottage today: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters.

But if all this is not possible to implement due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove for a summer residence will be an excellent solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather more than one generation of households around it, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

The services of a good stove-maker are not cheap. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick oven project at your dacha, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the principle of operation, features and scheme of laying the oven structure.

A brick oven can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is played correctly. Today, there are many ways to beautifully tiling and decorating a stone oven.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove structures and no matter how far the technologies for heating the dwelling have gone, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to keep heat for another day after the firewood burns out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• a combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
• ash pan where ash is collected;
• chimney.

A fireplace with an open or closed firebox can be attributed to the same type of design. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room with an area of \u200b\u200b15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves can have different heat output.

The most popular type of oven is a single brick construction. This allows the walls to warm up to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and wide, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

Tiled tiles, decorative plaster, decorative stone are usually used for facing such a furnace.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner will not be able to implement this option, since a lot of experience is required here. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for keeping the angle strictly under 60 0.

Round stoves, which are laid out according to the scheme of the famous Russian engineer in stove business V.E. Grum-Grigimailo, also look beautiful and unusual. The furnace works on the principle of free gas movement. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered with sheet metal. Such a stove is capable of heating a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, ash pan, chimney. A metal plate lies on top (an oven can be built in).

1. The heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional structure.

This is a more difficult project to implement, since it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for summer cottages, where no other heating option is provided.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are most popular, allowing you to heat a house and prepare a delicious meal for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes and boots in one night.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable stove bench, drying for wood, an oven, and a hot water tank.

Furnace device for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for a summer residence are:

10 basic rules for laying a summer cottage

Which brick stove to choose for a summer residence?

The choice of furnace design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive stove structure with thick walls will be required, which will heat up for a long time, but at the same time it will be able to hold the temperature for a long time. Folding such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a beginner can cope with a small stove for heating a small summer cottage, if you follow a clear scheme and do not change the masonry rules.

In the first place in the popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily placed a Swede, who enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove-makers.

This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small hob, three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small summer cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, a place is most often chosen between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove serves a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

On the Internet today you can find hundreds of different layouts for laying a Swedish stove with a hob, so it will not be difficult to implement it for a summer residence. Many stove-makers have added additional options to the standard masonry scheme, therefore each design is named after its creator: Buslaev's, Kuznetsov's stove, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky massive structure, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious bed.

This oven is already not only a functional cooking device, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, making the owners of such stoves less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Thanks to the special design of the furnace, heating is carried out evenly, from bottom to top. Any solid fuel is suitable for kindling, and especially strict requirements are not imposed on the materials for laying the Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by little V.A. Potapov, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For its laying, only 211 bricks are needed, and the dimensions of the furnace are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a baby contains a single-cooking plate, a small oven for baking and a hood. This oven option will be an excellent solution for a small garden house or a one-room summer cottage.

In this article, we invite you to study the rules and basic points of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

DIY oven masonry

Step 1. Choosing a brick and preparing tools

Which brick for laying a small country stove to choose? We need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of the firebox and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). You should not save on materials; further operational properties, safety and efficiency of the furnace depend on this.

Fireclay bricks can be easily recognized by their yellowish color and porous surface. This material contains refractory clay and chips. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the firewood has completely damped, such a stove is capable of giving off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay brick is able to withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 С, therefore the combustion chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the more pores it contains, which are created by aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times higher than the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But laying out the entire furnace from fireclay bricks is also not worth it, the outer part of the structure does not get very hot, and the red ceramic brick looks more attractive.

When choosing bricks for your oven, pay attention to color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters and it doesn't crack, take this batch. But bad, overexposed brick can split into several pieces. Such a brick makes a dull sound when it falls.

The grade of brick for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The figure in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand by 1 cm 3.

Do not use sand-lime and hollow bricks. It's not even about the ability to withstand heat - they can handle it. Silicate brick does not conduct heat well and it will not be very comfortable in a room with such a stove.

For the mortar, you need sand, red oven clay and water. The appearance and durability of the oven directly depends on its quality and consistency. To prepare it, use medium liquid red oven clay. When frozen, it should not fall off, crumble.

The masonry will be 0.5 mm thick, in this case the precious heat will not go away quickly.

Also for construction, you can use ready-made masonry mortar, which is sold in stores. Usually, it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

In terms of consistency, such a solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, add more dry mix. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, for the construction of the furnace, we need the following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
• Fireclay bricks - 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphium, sand).
• Roofing material.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards to create formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for arranging the foundation.
• Grate.
• Metal plate for one bezel (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan door (blower).
• Cast iron door for the firebox.
• Chimney valve.
• Chimney view.
• Metal cap for the chimney.

Tools that will be needed to build a furnace.

• Building level.
• Scoop shovel.
• Construction marker.
• Protractor.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (tape measure).
• Construction plumb line.

Important! When laying a stove, a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use medium-fat red river clay that has been outdoors for at least 2 years. Make exactly as much mortar as you can handle for "1 run". The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. Prepare the brick for laying the furnace

Before proceeding with the laying of the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the brick in advance and prepare it according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts, cutting at the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see which parts of the bricks you need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick, so that later it will be easy to navigate in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick correctly? Before "beat off" the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to make a groove. This can be done with a hacksaw or a file.

To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 brick, groove all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the oven

This is a very important stage in laying the stove, which is advisable to do even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to lay the stove arises from the owners of the houses during the operation of the summer cottage. In this case, determine the place from which it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to evaluate the distance between the oven and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing in from the doors can impede the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the oven should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating any inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• The fireplace is best located near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no front door opposite the corner, from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

For the construction of a brick oven, a separate foundation must be made. If it is laid on the same cycle with the construction of a house, it is not a difficult task to complete it.

If you made the decision to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deep into the ground.

Why is it so important to keep a separate foundation? A brick oven, whatever size it is, has a lot of weight, which will put a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will shrink. This should in no way affect the shape and construction of the oven.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of technical properties.

Attention! Before laying the brick on the mortar, lay the entire brick "dry". First, it lets you see if you have enough material. And secondly, even at the rough stage, you can see the difficult moments that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the oven

Attention! Before laying the stove, dip the bricks in a bowl of cold water to absorb moisture. This will prevent them from drawing water from the mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire under the stove will practically be occupied by grates, which will ensure good and easy maintenance of the stove, as well as complete burning of firewood.

We block the blower door with a brick.

Installing the combustion door

We install the furnace door, having previously wrapped it with asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door on a thick wire and support it on both sides with bricks. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here, we begin to form the chimney pipe, creating overlaps for the two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which we make from fireclay bricks.

• From 7-9 rows we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the scheme.

In this row, the two bricks overlapping the grate must be cut at a 45 degree angle.

• 10 row - we close the oven. We create a partition from a brick, raising it by 2 cm. On the oven, to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sand mortar. Preparing a place for installing a hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for a secure fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for metal expansion. Immediately attach the slab to the dry one and number the bricks - so it will be easy for you later to lay the brick on the mortar and not be mistaken with the correct grooves under the slab.

We lay an asbestos strip on a brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Outlet of the chimney through the roof

This is a crucial step, which must ensure complete safety of the furnace.

Follow the norms of SNIP when leading a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Insulate with heat-insulating materials around the place where the pipe passes through the roof. This will provide reliable protection against cold air blown out and provide reliable fire safety.

If the oven is being installed in a residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After the pipe is wire, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place, so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of the slate and the metal plate is performed using a sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to complete with sandwich-type steel pipes. They are stylish and easy to assemble. In addition, they have a much lower weight than bricks and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of traction directly depend on the correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the chimney should protrude at least 0.5 meters above the ridge of the roof, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can impede good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We complete the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

We put on a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Lining the oven

There are many ways to decorate a stove beautifully for a summer residence.

Clinker tiles, tiled tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be used as a decorative material.

Or you can just leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Please note that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Heating up the stove

After complete lining of the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dry. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the mortar is completely dry, you can make the first test kindling of the oven. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, kindle firewood.

Firing up a damp stove prematurely can lead to cracking. Use ¼ part of the firewood the first time, use small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees during the first week of operation.

• Do not use rubbish for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when firing.
• Preheat the oven gradually, do not immediately apply a high heat.
• Use good quality, well-dried wood.

For the convenience of using a country stove, you can do it yourself with a stylish one, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to fold a beautiful and solid summer cottage stove.

Video: Laying a brick oven "dry"

Below we give a detailed master class on laying a brick oven for a summer residence.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence

About ten years ago, fireplaces began to be massively sold - these are beautiful fireplaces of different sizes, made with a variety of decorative finishes. Due to the variety of types of portals, such fireplaces began to be installed in almost all private houses. Their beauty and high safety (the firebox is closed under glass) attracted many. For several years they have been successfully replacing the old Russian stoves. Till today…

A bit of history and facts

The stove is part of Russian folklore! There is no exact information when the prototypes of these structures first appeared. However, at first they had a completely different look, not very reminiscent of the Russians we are used to. And only recently people began to build them similar in design and appearance to their counterparts. Today, such structures are part of houses in Russian villages, where there is only stove heating and no gas is involved. People use them to heat the house, they cook, heat food and bake with them.

What does a traditional Russian stove with a deck chair consist of?

The Russian stove is quite massive, its weight reaches several hundred kilograms, so it needs a foundation. In the old days, its role was played by old stones and logs, which were laid out in the base. Today they are reinforced concrete or brickwork.

It is better to plan construction at the stage of creating a house project. If the structure already exists, the foundation still needs to be made solid!

Main elements:

• The lower part is the base (subheats). It has a niche for storing fuel or cooking utensils. With the help of this base, the combustion chamber is raised to the required height.
• On top of the baking ovens, the vault is covered. A layer of sand or clay is poured onto it. This technology is used to retain heat.
• The bottom of the firebox (under) is made with a slight slope towards the rear wall. This is done so that the fuel burns evenly in the chamber.
• The stove firebox consists of two parts: a cooking chamber and a firebox. The cooking chamber is clean without logs and ash, since the fuel is put into the far chamber - the firebox.
• There is a vault above the firebox - this is a ceiling that separates the firebox and the lower part of the lounger.
• The lounger can be built along the entire length of the firebox. When a fire burns there, heat spreads to the lounger.
• The chimney is installed above the first chamber where food is prepared. In its course, a gate valve and a viewing window are installed. With the help of a damper, the intensity of fuel combustion in the furnace is regulated.

Depending on the design features, they may have steps leading to the sunbed. Also, often along the chimney, small shelves are made in order to install the decor there.

Modern Russian stoves: what are they?

They can be different in size and functionality. Traditional options have dimensions: length - 2.5 meters, width - 1.5 meters. Products can be of different sizes:

• small (178 * 124 cm);
• medium (213 * 147 cm);
• (231 * 160 cm).

In rare cases, stoves can be built to custom dimensions.

But the old ones did not suit anyone - an unattractive view, the possibility of cooking only inside the hearth, limited opportunities. Thanks to the work of craftsmen and changes in designs, Russian stoves have regained popularity. They have everything you need to heat your home, prepare food and more.

So, the latest additions:

• equipped with a cooking deck. Such structures are multifunctional and can replace any hob and stove;
• with a fireplace. This option is a new trend. Its peculiarity is that the rear wall of the firebox structure is brought out into another room through the wall. Thus, it turns out that two are combined in one design: a fireplace with a flame effect and all the magnificent sounds of crackling wood, as well as a classic Russian stove that heats the house, has a firebox for cooking and a stove for cooking;
• with a couch. In the classic versions, it was very large. The lounger could fit three people. The analogue has a lounger, but only reduced. It is enough for a comfortable arrangement of one person. However, this disadvantage can be easily compensated for with an attached trestle bed.

According to fire safety rules, all furniture and appliances must be 1 meter away from the firebox!

Pros and cons of designs

Besides beauty and warmth, they have some advantages:

• uniform release of heat and its accumulation;
• high level of efficiency;
• bottom heating. The classic versions were deprived of this. Only after a while, the builders modified the stoves, making them more practical to use. This feature makes it possible to heat the room as a whole;
• high security. Since all structures are laid out of bricks, the walls of the furnace do not heat up to such a temperature as to cause a fire or burn;
• built-in stove. Allows housewives to cook food in the way they are used to;
• long service life. A properly made structure can serve for over 30 years.

Minuses:

• will have to stockpile solid fuel for the winter;
• firewood will have to be dried, since it is impossible to put wet ones in the firebox;
• when a house is heated with a Russian stove, excessive garbage from fuel appears.

The Russian stove cannot be called an ideal device - it has positive aspects and shortcomings. For example, to learn how to cook in it, housewives will have to go through a long stage of training. For ignition, you will need firewood, which will have to be harvested. These are, of course, not electric or gas boilers, to which everyone is so accustomed. But, the Russian stove also has a lot of positive aspects:

• there is an opportunity to cook great meals. They are delicious and different from those cooked on the stoves;
• depending on the design features, the Russian stove can be equipped with a lounger, making it possible to rest comfortably in the cold season. It can also have shelves;
• and finally, the effect of a flame, the sound of crackling logs and a flickering fire - no device can replace this.

Russian stoves in the interior

Despite the development of technologies and the appearance on the market of fashionable cast-iron fireboxes, which are framed in various decorative portals, the Russian stove still remains popular. Of course, it has changed not only externally, but also structurally. It has become more practical, convenient and safe, in addition, when it is designed, construction technologies and materials are used that can increase efficiency, as well as an aesthetic component.

Benefits

Wooden houses are the basis of the architecture of ancient Russia. And, despite the development of technologies and the emergence of building materials from which buildings are erected, wood still occupies a special place. Such houses are filled with comfort, and the Russian stove only complements the extraordinary spiritual atmosphere. The installation of a Russian stove in a wooden house must be carried out in compliance with the safety requirements established by our legislation.

Brick

Brick is a classic. Previously, such structures were erected from homemade clay bricks, which went through the process of firing at a stake. Products are large due to the presence of a hob, baking compartment, lounger for rest.

Brick version is a classic

Benefits:

• Brick cools longer than all other materials. The stove erected from it will give off heat longer after the fire has died out. As a result, the rooms will remain warm for a long time.
• A large structure is capable of heating even a large house of several floors. This is possible if it is installed in the middle of the house, and the chimney is led upward inside the walls that separate the rooms on the second floor. Today, the chimney is no longer made from ordinary brickwork. It is made of galvanized or stainless steel pipes that run in the middle of a compartment located inside the walls. And if ventilation grilles are made in the compartments along the chimney, then the heat emanating from the chimney will spread throughout the rooms.
• The brick does not heat up to a temperature that could start a fire. This building material is quite durable and practical. It can be used as a base for applying decorative plaster, tiling and other finishing materials. Moreover, it is able to serve without restoration for 30 years.
• The cost of such a structure is not high in comparison with the purchase of a cast-iron firebox and a marble portal. It should be noted that most of the cost is devoted to creating a quality foundation.

Unfortunately, like others, brick ones are not without drawbacks. The main one is the fact that a powerful foundation will have to be erected for a brick structure. It can be a monolithic or reinforced concrete structure. If you install a brick without a foundation, the floor under its mass may sag.

Precautions

The Russian brick stove can not be installed in all parts of the house. The place directly depends on the structural features of the building. It is better when the idea of \u200b\u200bconstruction appears at the design stage of the house. Then it is possible to correctly calculate the location, as well as make an appropriate foundation.

If the house has already been built, then you will need to disassemble the floor in the place where the hearth will be installed to the base and make scaffolding.

Other options

Among the variety of options for installing heating systems in wooden houses, it is worth highlighting two main ones:

Fireplace stoves - iron furnaces with a large viewing window. They can have a hob and are not framed by anything. Minus - the walls of the structure get very hot and can cause burns or fires.

Cast iron furnaces - beautiful fireplaces that can heat large rooms. Many manufacturers produce fireboxes of different sizes, with lifting mechanisms for opening the firebox, the protective glass can be oval, prismatic or straight. Furnaces are equipped with a slide gate, a mechanism for adjusting the intensity of combustion. The downside is the high cost of furnaces and portals.

Recently, these options have become less common for installation in private homes. Despite their attractiveness, they are inferior in many respects to traditional Russian ovens.

Decorative finishing

Building materials make it possible to finish the stove in a variety of styles. In addition, they have a beneficial effect on the stability of bricks, as well as mortars used in its laying to various negative influences.

Truly Russian style: hut and tiles

In the old days, one material was traditionally used - this is a hut (plaster made on the basis of clay). Then it was covered with the usual whitewash. This method of finishing is not durable, since during the kindling, the smoke settles on the surface, making the whitewash gray. Although it is necessary to highlight the beauty of the painting of such stoves, the attractiveness and the truly Russian style. Nowadays, rarely anyone uses this method of decoration, as they increasingly prefer practicality.

The most common classic option is decor with ceramic elements made in the form of boxes. The main advantage of this material is attractiveness as well as practicality. Tiles are able to maintain their original appearance for a long time. The main disadvantage is the high price

.

Features:

• the cladding is laid from bottom to top;
• a special gypsum composition is used for grouting;
• there is a variety of tile patterns on the market. It can be both smooth tiles and relief with different patterns.

Using tiles for decoration, it is possible to choose the desired color, pattern, relief so that it fits the general style of the room. This is the best material for decorating Russian-style stoves.

Modern materials

A variety of materials makes it possible to decorate a Russian stove in any style. All this allows her to harmoniously fit into absolutely any interior. Among the most common, it is worth highlighting:

These materials are very practical and reliable. To give them a new look, just wipe the surfaces with a damp cloth. However, they are not without drawbacks. Some, such as ceramic tiles or granite, cannot fit harmoniously into any style.

Plaster and paint

Plaster and paint look very nice. This way of finishing for interiors in a minimalist style. In this case, the choice of color and texture is limited only by the flight of imagination and the general style of the room. With the help of paint and plaster, you can visually reduce the size of the furnace or, on the contrary, increase it. Plaster and paint are often used to create decor in the Russian style. It allows you to make various drawings and patterns on its surface.

Return of traditions

It cannot be said that the Russian stove in the house is a museum piece that has unexpectedly returned from the past. In fact, it has not disappeared anywhere, moreover, it is part of some Russian outbacks that are unfamiliar with main gas.

The massive return of the Russian wet nurse to homes spoiled by civilization is not a tribute to fashion. Most likely, the desire of people to feel comfortable and cozy in the house, to fill it with the pleasant aroma of pastries and to meet the family in front of an open fire for a delicious dinner cooked in a real Russian oven, plays a role here. After all, not a single miracle of technology will give those sensations and emotions that people experience when they see a flame.

The Russian stove, finished with quality material, does not look like an alien in the house. Today it has become more compact, practical and durable. A wood-burning stove, depending on its design features, is placed not only in the kitchen, but also in the living room, dining room. For the convenience of housewives, the masters integrate everything you need into them, up to the hoods.

A Russian stove without built-in hobs can easily take center stage in a library, bedroom. The lounger can easily replace even the most comfortable armchair or even a sofa.

To choose the most suitable project for your home, you need to consider several options in detail. They differ in size, functionality, and of course cost.

Arranging a Russian stove in a country house is a job only for professionals. Regardless of the skills in construction, the construction of such a structure requires not only skills, but also knowledge of features, as well as technology.

"Alya-Rus" - designer hit

This model has a fairly compact size. It does not have additional equipment such as a hob, a large lounger or the ability to observe the effect of the flame. This option is suitable for a small kitchen. Such a stove is decorated with decorative elements associated with Russia. It looks easy and charming in a wooden house. Features::

• despite the primary simplicity of the decor, such a stove should not be overloaded with accessories. A few decorations will be enough;
• it can be installed not only under the wall. Due to its compactness, it will look good in the center of the kitchen, if the area allows.

This is a budget option. And if you want a Russian stove in the house, but at the same time the funds do not allow luxury, you can stop at this option.

Russian hut - classic style

This design is better suited for rustic houses. These can be buildings made of logs, wood, or have a corresponding interior. The classic style is a brick oven decorated with decorative elements.

An excellent option would be to use tiles.... They are able to decorate the stove and give it an original Russian flavor. Such ovens are functional - there is a hob, a large and comfortable lounger. You can install it so that the functional part is in the kitchen, and the decorative firebox is in the living room. This will make it possible to enjoy the effect of an open flame and a slight crackle of wood.

Terem - wealth and luxury

A large Russian stove resembling illustrations from old Russian fairy tales. The design made in this style is a bright accent in any room. It will look beautiful both in a classic interior and a modern one.

Characteristics:

• decoration with a huge number of tiles is allowed. They will only add fabulousness to the design;
• the design is large enough, so it is suitable only for large rooms;
• can use many other decorative ornaments, they will not overload the structure.

This model can be equipped with a hob, a large lounger that can be decorated with light fabrics. Often, designers propose to install it near the wall and take the furnace part to the next room. This will make it possible to simultaneously get a multifunctional Russian stove in the kitchen and a beautiful fireplace in the living room.

Where to install a Russian stove?

Today it is difficult to surprise someone with the presence of a fireplace or cast-iron firebox. Almost all country houses are built with these structures in mind. But the Russian stove will cause not only surprise, but also admiration.

At that moment, when the question of installing it in a country house arises, nuances immediately arise that no one previously thought about.

It is better when the question of installing a Russian stove is decided even at the planning stage of a country house, since nuances arise that are better solved immediately.

In the living room

The living room is a visiting card of any home and a private house is no exception. In this room, she will be a bright accent that attracts the eye. Therefore, you do not need to look for too modest design options. Its size must be chosen depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthis room.

All pieces of furniture should be away from the structure.

Depending on the interior and the size of the room, stoves can be of different designs with and without a hob. Ovens can be installed in the living room:

• If it is large and has a sufficiently bright design, for example, decorated with tiles, all other furniture in the living room should be muted. You should not use bright decor, saturated colors. Then they will not distract attention from the main element in this room. The bed can be decorated with handmade blankets, beautiful and bright pillows. It is better to use a dim light. They have additional shelves and a large couch. No hob or baking compartments - only one cooking compartment.
• The Russian stove in the interior should look more modest. For decoration, you can use artificial stone, porcelain stoneware, tiles. The strict design of the stove is in harmony with expensive furniture. Such structures should not have a hob and baking compartments. But the presence of a large bed is obligatory.
• The main part of the stove is in the kitchen, and the furnace part is taken out into the living room. The furnace part can be framed in marble, if the interior of the living room matches or makes it look like a fireplace. In addition to it, you can install special sets for the fireplace: wood burning stove, broom, duck, poker. In the immediate vicinity of it, you can put a beautiful carpet on the floor or install a soft and cozy sofa. However, one should not forget about fire safety rules. If the firebox is open, you need to install a protective mesh or glass.

Installation in the kitchen

The choice of a Russian stove for the kitchen depends on the size of the room. If it is large, you can install a large oven that will be multifunctional:

• baking compartment;
• a hob made of several plates;
• compartment for dishes;
• large couch for several people.

If you choose a design for a wooden house, it is better to give preference to the truly Russian style. The decor can be done in several ways: using building materials (plaster and paint) or traditional hut. Such designs will look harmonious and fill the kitchen with coziness and comfort.

The kitchen is the perfect place for this product

Features and nuances:

• Household appliances must not be installed in the immediate vicinity of the stove. This could result in fire.
• The dining area must be removed. Otherwise, it will be very hot at the table.
• The kitchen should be light and airy. Therefore, if its dimensions are insufficient, it is better to leave the idea of \u200b\u200bconstruction.
• The Russian stove in the kitchen should not be overloaded with unnecessary decorative elements. She herself will act as a bright accent.
• If the room is large enough, you can use a bright decor on the stove. These can be decorations in the Russian style or tiles with beautiful designs.

Output

A Russian stove in a country house is an opportunity to fill it with warmth and comfort. However, before its construction, everything must be carefully planned, especially if the construction will be carried out already in a residential building.

Pitfalls that can be encountered during construction:

• This design will only look harmonious in rooms with a large area. Otherwise, there is a chance to turn the kitchen or living room into a room of aesthetic shame.
• Do not indulge yourself in the hope that you can build such a structure on your own without building skills. Here are some examples of how one wrong step can ruin the whole creation. The chimney must be at a certain distance from the ridge, and, depending on this, have a certain length. Otherwise, all the smoke and fumes will end up not in the chimney, but in your room. The foundation must be calculated to the smallest detail, otherwise you risk the integrity of your floor.
• In view of this, construction should be trusted only by professionals. You can only choose the design of the stove, the availability of certain functionalities.

The Russian stove in the house brings not only flavor, but also many possibilities, but only if it was built by professionals. The advantages of a Russian stove in the house:

• The food cooked in the stove's firebox cannot be compared in taste to any other. No other restaurant in Russia can prepare such delicious pastries or other dishes for you.
• If the stove is correctly built, it is capable of heating not only the first floor of your house, but also the second and third. But only along the chimney. However, the ground floor will be warm even in severe frost.
• The Russian stove will heat the room much faster than fireplaces, gas heating or any other.

If you are thinking about arranging a stove in your home, plan everything carefully, think it over. Only a correct approach to the construction of a Russian stove will give the expected result. The work must be entrusted to professionals who have experience in construction and know everything about the construction and installation features of such structures.

The brick oven is still popular, despite modern solutions. The main advantage is that it breathes. When a brick body heats up, moisture vapors are released into the room, and when it cools, it takes back. Because of this, the dew point is maintained at an optimal level for humans.

In addition to the positive effects on health, there is another advantage: when calculating the optimal temperature, the figure can be reduced to 18 ° C, due to the ideal humidity ratio during the heating season. In brick and wooden houses, the stove saves on fuel: at 17 ° C, a physically healthy person does not feel discomfort. And in a concrete house and at 18 ° C, feels chilly.

When heating with water registers, the lower temperature is 22 ° C, and when using an IR emitter, an electric and gas heater, a degree higher. Therefore, a brick oven, with an efficiency of 50%, is more economically profitable than modern solutions with an efficiency of 70%. The heating season starts later and ends earlier. For the middle band, this is a weekly difference, and in the southern band, up to 3.

Materials and devices

Brick

Kiln brick differs from refractory fireclay, in some sources they are confused. Their total size: building brick 250х125х65 mm, standard furnace 230х114х40 mm... If you look at it, then the oven brick is a high-quality M150, red. It is suitable for the construction of Russian and Dutch ovens. With a heat resistance of 800 ° C from it you can make stones for the house, but it cools quickly and absorbs little heat, therefore it is used only for open sources of fire, where heating is not needed.

Fireclay bricks are used to put the furnace sections of the furnace with a high thermal regime: bath, Swedish, bell-type ones. Heat resistance - 1600 ° C, which is enough for a home oven... Its high thermal capacity makes it an excellent heat accumulator. But because of these features, the stove is not made entirely of fireclay bricks, otherwise it quickly heated up and also rapidly cooled. From the outside, the masonry should be lined with ceramics, at least half a brick.

Chamotte clay from different deposits has a different color, but this does not in any way affect the characteristics and it will not work to determine a quality product by its appearance. The size and designations are no different from the usual.

How to recognize a good brick:

• Fine-grained structure without pores and inclusions.
• When a brick is tapped with a hammer, a good product has a ringing sound, a bad one deaf.
• If you drop a good brick from a height, then it will scatter into large pieces, and a bad one, into small pieces and dust.

When laying the internal openings of home stoves, clinker bricks have proven themselves well. It consists of ceramics and with a nondescript appearance shows good indicators of heat resistance and strength... Clinker is cheaper than chamotte, but more expensive than red.

Sand

If you expect your stove to serve for 10 years without regular repairs, then you need to use mountain sand without impurities in the solution. Other species contain a large amount of organic matter, which leads to cracking of the seams. Clay sand is ground broken brick, at a price it is cheaper than mountain sand, and the quality of the masonry is in no way inferior.

Masonry mortars

When laying stoves for the home, clay and sand mortars are used. White kaolin and chamotte marl are used for chamotte. With ceramic bricks - ground clay with refractory qualities (gray or blue Cambrian, gray kaolin). 100 pcs. you need 40 kg of clay.

When buying clay, pay attention to the smell, if you smell it, it indicates impurities that are not suitable for building a furnace. Before laying, you need to determine the fat content, i.e. a combination of viscosity with adhesion, for the correct ratio of sand. Clays of the same quality, but from different deposits, differ in this indicator. To check, 1 kg of powder is poured with water to the upper edge and allowed to stand for a day. Chamotte marl turns sour in 2 hours.

The soured clay is moistened with water and stirred until a thick dough consistency is reached. The resulting composition is divided into 5 equal parts and each is mixed with sand, in different proportions (10%, 30%, 50%, 70%, 100% by volume). Then dried for 4 hours... Sausages with a diameter of 1.5 cm, at least 30 cm, are made from each sample, wrapped around a round object with a diameter of 5 cm and look:

• If the solution settles down without cracks, then it will fit for the construction of any furnace.
• The dry crust has torn, small cracks have appeared - the material is suitable for use.

The cracks have spread 1 mm deep - for furnaces whose temperature does not rise above 300 ° C (country fireplace, barbecue).

• Fractures, deep cracks, breaks - high sand content, unusable.

Testing brick sand to determine the correct ratio will allow you to save a lot, high-quality clay is more expensive.

The working solution is made according to the same principle:

From the forging of commercial clay, 4 buckets of mortar are obtained.

Furnace appliances

Stove appliances (latches, doors) are attached to the stove with whiskers, which fall on the seams or with a steel skirt wrapped in a 5 mm asbestos cord. The first option is the cheapest, but not suitable for the oven, created fireboxes and heat dampers, quickly becomes unusable. And to replace it, it is necessary to break the masonry, which is bad for the oven.

Laying and dressing

Depending on which side of the brick is outside, the masonry is divided into butcher and spoon. "Bed" laying, when a brick is laid on a spoon or poke, is prohibited by SNiP due to its fragility, but it is applicable in extreme cases, for external decoration.

The masonry is carried out with the dressing of the seams, the rows of bricks should be offset. Otherwise any microcrack will go beyond the place of origin, destroying the integrity of the structure. There are a large number of dressing methods, they often have to be changed during the construction of a complex chimney according to the drawing.

Bricklaying principles:

• The stitch row begins and ends the laying.
• Each brick must stand on top of 2 others.
• Adjacent rows of bricks should overlap 1/4 in width and length.
• If the vertical seams are not filled with mortar, then the masonry will creep into layers.
• There should be no coincidence of the vertical seams of the spoon and butt rows.
• Areas under the beams, protruding sills, inserts are only bonded.
• Stripped bricks are not used outside.

The minimum joint width is 2 mm, the maximum is 3 mm. Allowed broadening in masonry up to 5 mm, in vaults and ceiling rows - up to 13 mm... At the junctions of ceramic and fireclay masonry, the maximum width is 5 mm. All rows of masonry must be tied.

When constructing partitions, bypass windows are made at the bottom and top. The pass is simple - 2 bricks are skipped. But this will not work with an overflow, otherwise there will be a hanging wall. The poke supports alternate every 3 rows with spoon windows.

The walls of the convector are made in order, and the dashboard - with spoons with a usual dressing.

Vaults in household stoves are made semicircular. Laying order:

The seams on the fenders must not line up with the seams. To avoid this, in the drawing, they are performed in a mirror image, and not in a shift. The divergence angle should not exceed 17 degrees. To do this, you need to use a brick of a standard size, the thickness of the internal seams is 2 mm, the external ones are 13 mm.

Number of bricks

Before the widespread use of computers, the number of bricks per building was calculated according to special coefficients for projects with the addition of 15%, for marriage and theft. But at current prices for materials, this approach is unacceptable. Now all buildings are calculated on CAD (computer-aided design systems). The program will automatically give out the required number of full lengths, shaped and sectional bricks, according to the drawing. But if you build a furnace yourself, the easiest way is to count in order. For an average oven, this will take an hour, but will allow you to count materials with an accuracy of 2%.

"Buslaevskaya" oven for home

The design is equipped with a built-in hood and is well suited for the home, as it can be used not only for heating (lower), but also for cooking (upper). To build a Buslaevskaya stove, you will need:

Order of the "Buslaevskaya" furnace:

• I - full row.
• II - blew.
• III - cleaning window.
• IV - the bottom of the oven is laid out of refractory, lined with iron on three sides.
• V - the furnace door, grate, cleaning overlap are installed.
• VI - installation of the DS.
• VII - around the DSh, the refractory is installed on the edge.
• VIII - full row
• IX - the upper part of the oven is coated with clay (1 cm).
• X - smoke circulation is set.
• XI - creating channels and laying 25 cm strips, overlapping cleanings.
• XII - installation of the fixing wire and completion of cleaning.
• XIII - cap.
• XIV - overlap.
• XV – XVI - pichurki.
• XVII - a small bird is covered with iron.
• XVIII - the edges of the side walls are trimmed off.
• XIX - masonry of ledges.
• XX - mounting the corner, duplicating the ledge.
• XXI - blocking the chimney.
• XXII - reducing the diameter of the chimney to 0.26x0.13 m.
• XXIII - and all the next rows - is a chimney.

When used for facing clinker bricks, the dimensions of the furnace increase. It is not recommended to use it instead of full-bodied. Facing the structure with tiles will ensure a long service life.

The technology for creating stoves for the home differs from the traditional one. Laying of rows without using mortar is often used, according to the order. To give the desired shape, the brick is chipped and trimmed. The dimensions of the stove are smaller than the walls of the house and carefully measure the diagonals before building. Take a check measurement every 4 rows. It is convenient to do this with the help of a stretched cord and a rule.

Using a ready-made solution will help significantly save time. You will not need to soak the clay for 2 days, filter through a sieve, knead to the required consistency. To prevent rapid drying, the brick is pre-moistened with water. The absence of rectangular ledges in the design will help save on operating costs. During laying, control the thickness of the joints, remove excess mortar. When building a furnace, different materials are used and use different solutions for joining them. Fireclay bricks are not tied to clay bricks, ovens, cast iron and steel plates, rods, water tanks, gratings are not embedded in the masonry. This is due to the different expansion rates of materials at the time of heating.

The need for warmth and comfort in a private house arises already in the middle of autumn, and it is good if the house has central heating. Those who have to independently heat their home will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. Modern boilers or electric fireplaces can solve the problem today, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of living fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of firewood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the question arises for you: "How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?" In this article, we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account the diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. You just have to correctly repeat all the described processes, and you will become the owner of a solid home stove, which will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a brick oven if you have a clear idea of \u200b\u200bwhich type of oven will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and already starting from the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of ovens in relation to the type of buildings.

1. Stove in a wooden house. This type of oven needs a very solid base. It is better to provide for the presence of a furnace even at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for furnace equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for a wooden house would be a compact stove made of bricks of a heating and cooking type of medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.

   

   

2. Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, heating water, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a lounger, is very convenient, but it will not fit into a small house, and also requires the creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.

   

3. Stove in a country house.An ideal option for a country house would be an oven with a hob and a heating water tank.

   

4. Stove in a cottage or country house. A cottage and a summer residence imply a visit only during a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a structure it will be sufficient to install a small brick oven with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the stove structure, folded according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.

   

   

5. Stove for home with a bath. If a bathhouse is attached to your house, it is quite acceptable to build a brick stove with a built-in boiler for heating living quarters.

   

6. Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, therefore they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecue grills, barbecue grills, cast iron cauldrons, etc.

   

   

   BBQ hob with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. You can move on.

Stove-maker's advice. When deciding on the choice of the size of the furnace structure, first of all, pay attention to such points as comfort of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, it is necessary to consider how resistant it will be to the effects of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of the brick as a building material will determine the life of the kiln. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them stands for density. For ovens, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, while it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the more slowly the oven will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated dense brick stove will slowly cool down, releasing its soft heat into the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bath, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that it does not take a lot of time to kindle. And for appliances intended for heating living quarters and preparing meals, it is worth purchasing a denser brick.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase goods with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney, which is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which deforms the material during crystallization. The best indicators of frost resistance are for hollow facing bricks, while the inside of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. There are few pores in these products, they withstand temperature changes well, the masonry does not crack even after a long downtime of the oven. Silicate products, pressed, cast by slip casting, raw raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Fireclay bricks made in accordance with GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. This brick can be used to build the entire furnace or use it only for lining the inner working surfaces of the furnace. For the masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark intersperses; fireclay bricks Ш22 - Ш45 are suitable for the firebox. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are operated only at humidity less than 60%. In the bath, it is better to use clinker brick or ceramic refractory.

Fireclay brick prices

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

• if the product is dropped on the floor, it will split into large pieces. If the brick has crumbled, discard the batch;
• if you touch a brick, it does not get dusty;
• if a quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear ringing continuous sound;
• the edges of a good brick are even, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. Download file

GOST 8691-73. REFRACTORY PRODUCTS OF GENERAL PURPOSE. FORM AND SIZES. Download file

Choosing a mortar

The choice of mortar is an important point. If the solution is not correct, the stove will smoke, and cracks may appear on the surface of the structure very soon.

Most often, the masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (grains of sand with a maximum of 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before mixing. The soaked clay is rubbed through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry seam should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay solution - preparation

The proportions for the clay mortar depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the mortar too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test kneading solutions in order to determine the required proportions of sand and clay, while it is important to thoroughly stir the sand, adding it in several steps.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, wetting it and kneading it well, rolling a ball, and then putting and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was squeezed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying the furnace. Additional quality control - drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. A good quality dried ball will not wrinkle when pressed.

How much water to pour? We again do test mixes and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We draw with a trowel over the mixed solution and look at the trail:

• if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
• if almost instantly swam, - an excess of moisture;
• if the mark is clear and the edges are even, then the mortar is suitable for laying the oven.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped in a solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, there are streaky stains on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, and in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly translucent, and the stains are patterned.

Note! It is advisable to use soft water to mix the masonry mixture. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees or more, will reduce the strength of the mortar.

The last suitability test is carried out by spreading a layer of 3 mm on a bed of bricks. The second brick is glued to the first one, tapped with a mallet and wait up to 5-10 minutes. Within the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the oven is guaranteed to last for a hundred years.

Note! For laying the firebox, either chamotte sand or a mixture of equal proportions of chamotte and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a furnace

Clay mortar is not used for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime dough - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you will not be able to cope with the preparation, testing and mixing of the clay solution, purchase ready-made oven mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg 306 rubles). A mixture with red clay is suitable for red bricks, and gray refractory mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement М600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the number of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, you need to carry out the optimal calculation of the size of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the furnace structure, you can set the required amount of bricks. Single red solid brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox is laid out in almost all furnaces, are manufactured and marked in accordance with GOST 8691-73. See table for size information.

For one square meter of masonry in half a brick you will need:

• excluding the mortar joint - 61 bricks;
• taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two meters of square brickwork, 122 or 113 full-bodied red bricks will be needed, and the estimated amount of mortar used will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the wall thickness of the furnace is not 120, but already 250 mm, then for each square meter 128 or 115 bricks will be used, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.

How is a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire furnace made:

• the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
• the resulting value is multiplied by the number of oven rows;
• the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).

For example, let's calculate the number of bricks per oven with dimensions 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. We multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pieces. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. \u003d 477.75 pcs., Round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are taken in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 ("Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning") and SNiP 2.09.03-85 ("Chimneys"), which will be detailed below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We consider: 4x56 \u003d 224 pcs. Add another 56 bricks to the otter, butcher and fluff and multiply the result by 10%. It remains only to add up the number of bricks for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or taking into work an already existing ordering diagram, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the furnace, recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors, are given.

This information can be used in practice, forming an individual plan for the costs of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you want to ultimately get a perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the choice of stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Choosing a stove location

So, after you have decided on the type of furnace, determined the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace structure, and also selected the building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a place for mounting the furnace.

Usually the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against the wall - this saves precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, while simultaneously being in several adjacent rooms with its different faces, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure the proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow the air masses to circulate efficiently (provided that the exhaust and supply air vents are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, it is worth adhering to the following distances:

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of works

Stone and furnace work. Downloads pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A stove made of bricks has a high specific gravity, therefore, the structure cannot be installed without a reliable foundation.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the base of the stove should not be tied to the base of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for the house, starting from the type of soil.

1. The gravel-sandy soil allows you to equip a shallow foundation.
2. If the soil is clay or sedimentary, it is better to fill the foundation on a crushed stone pad, while deepening it to the level of freezing.
3. In permafrost zones, a pile-screw foundation is equipped, with special attention paid to the thermal insulation of the piles.
4. On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have a minimum thickness or be absent altogether.
5. Filled soil is not suitable for installing a brick oven.

Consider a method of arranging solid bases for a brick oven.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the furnace and add 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location of the ceiling beams - the chimney pipe will have to pass between them, and taking into account the indentation regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to make a drainage (drainage) from the foundation of the furnace in order to reduce moisture and soil heaving.

Step 2. We ram the bottom of the pit and level it horizontally as much as possible. We pour a ten-centimeter layer of fine broken brick, rubble stone or rubble. We repeat the ramming procedure.

Step 3. We prepare a slurry (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.

• to combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement filling. This option is acceptable for bases of shallow depth, namely up to 50 cm;

  

• install the reinforcement cage and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with a wire made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. The size of the cells is 10x10 cm. A formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm away from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, the mixture is compacted during the pouring process with a deep vibrator or a metal bar. The top pouring point should be 15 cm below the finished floor;

  

  

• pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay out the walls of the foundation of silicate or red brick, and fill the inner part with concrete with backfill (the loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

  

The first and third versions of the bases are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after complete drying of the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation.

Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fix it with mastic (for roofing we use tar, for roofing material - bituminous).

Step 6... We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We put whole bricks at the edges, halves inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm of the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the oven itself.

We do not use cement to bond the bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then we lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base, ideally, should be exactly level with the finished floor or rise above it by 3-4 cm.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have been lying on the street all winter and have been repeatedly wet and freezing. Such products are capable of rapidly deteriorating, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We fill the space between the foundation of the furnace and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Do-it-yourself construction of a heater-heater. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob on which it is easy to heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the stove cools down very slowly, therefore, warm water will be available even the morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter for more than a day, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters up to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and the fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold about 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are heated evenly, so that the steam in the bath is dry, thick enough and hot.

The height of the oven will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay / fill it in advance.

When building a stove (chimney is not taken into account), the following will be used:

• 269 \u200b\u200bred bricks;
• 63 refractory bricks ША-8;

  

• cast iron furnace door with dimensions 0.21x0.25 m;

  

  Stove door - example

• blower door 0.14x0.25 m;
• two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
• grate 0.38x0.25 m;
• hob made of cast iron, two-burner 0.51x0.34 m;

  

• oven for laying stones with dimensions 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
• one gate valve for "summer" mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;

  

• one chimney damper, size 0.13x0.25 m;

  

• pre-furnace steel sheet with a size of at least 50x70 cm.

  

• the key in masonry is the construction joint. It should be uniform in each row, carefully missed. Only in this way will you get the solidity of the furnace structure, and exclude smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Follow the process very carefully;
• before laying a brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container with water and immerse the bricks in water for 5 to 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at the highest level in the future. A wet brick after drying excludes the occurrence of cracks in the finished furnace structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
• before laying each subsequent row, use a building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the workflow is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

We lay out the first row of red brick. In total, you need 24 intact and one brick sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, with a meter level, check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check the squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber hammer. We make the seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first in either the quantity of brick or its quality. One has only to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling in the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and the ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, four more we cut with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Before cutting, we wet the brick and fix it securely. We observe safety precautions !!!

Brick cutting with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut a brick

Video - Cutting oven brick with a grinder

We are not in a hurry to apply the solution, first we spread the entire row dry! Do not lay bricks with the chipped (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the inner surfaces of channels and furnaces with clay.

If the brick was laid unsuccessfully, we remove it, clean it of the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then re-adjust it.

In the same row we fix the door, for this we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist a steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, the number of rods for twisting from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire strands between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing the oven door - photo

Video - How to attach the wire to the door

Video - How to fix a furnace blower door

The clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will hold the door frame securely.

Another way to install the door is with metal strips or plates extended at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry seams. If the plates are too thick, it is better to hew out grooves on the bricks.

The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked with a plumb line and level.

Council. To make the cleanout door fit more accurately and accurately, remove the rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located along the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the opening for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you only manage to lay out three rows in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying takes time, patience and neatness.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately put a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, just with a solution, since in this place the temperature will be low, and the thermal expansion of the metal is minimal.

For the fifth row, take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the "lock" method. Lay the bricks with the chipped side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, six and a half fireclay bricks and 12 red bricks will be used. It is shown in yellow in the diagram. Lay out the base of the fuel chamber from the fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The opening for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger than it, so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. The space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) is covered with sand.

Experienced stove-makers advise to lay the grate with a slight, up to three centimeters, incline towards the stove door.

We block the cleaning door with one brick.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick, which is placed in the back of the firebox, obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

Install the door using an asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of steel with a thickness of 8 mm. The back of the cabinet will be in the fuel chamber. The door of the cabinet is slightly less than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out the laying according to the ordering schemes. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.

For the ninth row, you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, using the "lock" method already discussed above, we block the fire door. The whole row will take 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and 1 more fireclay hewn with a wedge.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. We close the door and the back of the oven. We lay bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertically located channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We make shrinkage, as shown in the diagram, and we also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We put the hob 51x34 cm, do not use the solution.

We install the valve in the near vertical channel. To install a metal element, we make slots in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work, we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use chamotte.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut the two bricks above the niche obliquely to make the castle floor. We also obliquely grind the brick over the hob. We put the wedge brick in the castle. Consumption per row - 18 pcs.

We close the oven completely, except for the near channel. In this channel we make cuts to install a 13x25 cm gate valve. We cut another brick obliquely above the slab. Consumption - 16 pcs.

From 17 and a half bricks, we make a second overlap, leaving only a 13x13 cm smoke channel.

From four bricks we form the base of the chimney pipe.

With the bandaging we put the second row of the pipe.

Video - Description of the construction of the furnace

The inner surfaces of the furnace should be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned off or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with open valves and doors for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put quite a bit of fuel into the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day, we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. In this case, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet traces on the walls and no condensate on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real firebox.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove in the bath

Video - Drying the oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft can be checked in it by opening the latches, then holding the burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates inside the furnace, then there is a draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More precisely, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that raw pipes will have a slightly weaker draft.

It is recommended to whitewash the brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime, so that leaks of furnace gases become immediately noticeable. The defective pipe is repaired immediately. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used for masonry, while the brick is selected of the highest quality, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Do not forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the bathhouse in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately seal them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold the oven with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks