We put the floor tiles in the kitchen correctly: step by step instructions. Everything you need to know about laying kitchen tiles How to lay tiles in the kitchen

Not all specialists can be entrusted with laying tiles in an apron in the kitchen. It is much safer to do everything yourself, even if you have no experience. The main thing is to know how to lay out the tiles correctly. And when your apron is ready, you will be surprised how difficult it was.

Determine the size of the apron and calculate the material

To make an apron in the kitchen with your own hands, you need to determine the consumption of material. And for this - to clarify the size of the area on which the work will be carried out. Here you can focus on the standard parameters:

The entire working area takes about 55-75 cm in height from the level of the countertop, although it can reach the floor itself - a lot depends on the location of the kitchen cabinets;
Ceramic tiles must necessarily go under the countertop by at least 20 mm - so that dirt and water do not accumulate at the joints;
From above, the apron is mounted before the hood - this technique is mounted at a height of 65 or 75 cm from the electric and gas stoves, respectively;
The horizontal size of the working surface is the entire length of the corresponding wall, although it is possible to restrict ourselves only to the "sink-working table-stove" section.

It is imperative to do all the necessary calculations. And for this - decide in what way you lay out the apron. There are a lot of laying methods, but among them the most popular ones can be distinguished:

Standard (basic);
Diagonal;
Imitating brickwork.

The easiest way is to implement the basic method with your own hands, and the overrun of material in this case will be minimal.

Advice! Do not forget that in the process of work, damage to the material, chips, and so on is possible. Therefore, tiles are always purchased with a minimum stock of 10%.

What do we need

To lay out a kitchen apron with your own hands, you will need tools:

Perforator for cleaning old coatings;
A screwdriver, supplemented with a special device for mixing the adhesive composition - a mixer;
Buckets for water and glue with a capacity of at least 10 liters each;
Spatula for working with glue mixture: narrow for - a set of glue, notched - for distribution, rubber - for working with seams;
Building levels - short - to check the location of each individual tile and long - to check the entire plane;
Tile cutter and nippers, abrasive bar for cutting tiles, correcting chipped areas;
Rubber mallet to check the tightness of the apron;
Crosses and pegs for setting the seam thickness;
Hard pencil, ruler;
Cord (beat).

Preparing the walls

After all the tools are prepared, you need to start preparing the working surface.

The wall is qualitatively cleaned of the previous coating. If tiles have been laid on the wall, then a perforator will be required to clean them and the old mortar. In any case, the surface is cleaned to the plaster layer.
It is also necessary to check the tightness of the plaster layer - the exfoliating elements are completely removed, after which all irregularities are repaired.
It is important to make a perfectly even corner if the tile will move from wall to wall.
It is advisable to make notches in the wall so that the adhesive solution grasps better with its surface.

Advice! If salt, fungus or mold stains appear on the cleaned surface, it must be treated with a high-quality fungicide that has anti-corrosion properties.

Getting started step by step

Step 1. At the first stage, we do the markup with our own hands. , you must determine its upper and lower boundaries based on the dimensions of the headset. As a rule, the distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the apron is 70-85 cm. And the height of the apron is 55-65 cm.

Advice! Where to start tiling from the center or from the edge, moving towards the corner? It's up to you to decide: if you start the installation from the center, then the cut tiles will be installed at the edges and in this case they must be the same size on the right and left, otherwise the apron will not look neat. If you have a corner kitchen and the edges of the apron in plain sight, then it is better to start laying from the edge so that the edge tile is intact, and the scraps are in the corner.

A flat wooden beam is installed on a horizontal level - it will support the tile from below, preventing it from sliding off. Sometimes plasterboard sheets or metal profiles are used for these purposes. And in order to make a vertical mark, a plumb line is installed - a lace with a load is attached at the top of the wall and released. Under the influence of gravity, the plumb line itself creates an ideal vertical.

Step 2. After applying the markings, you need to make an adhesive solution with your own hands. If the mixture is prepared incorrectly, in violation of the manufacturer's recommendations, then it will collapse very quickly and the apron will fall off.

In the process of work, it is also impossible to use a dried solution and it will not work to dissolve it, it will lose its adhesive properties.

Step 3. Then we start laying the apron. For beginners, it is best to make an apron using an orderly styling method. The size of the tile also matters - the larger it is, the easier it is to work, and it is easier to maintain, since there are much fewer joints. Accordingly, the smaller the tile size, the more joints there will be and the more difficult and longer it will be to install it.

We carry out work with our own hands in the following sequence:

The adhesive is applied to the wall (with a narrow trowel) and spread evenly over its surface (with a notched trowel 3 mm). An even layer of glue with grooves should remain on the wall.

Advice! The glue can be applied not to the wall, but to the tiles themselves. The question of which method is more reliable does not have an unambiguous answer, the opinions of the masters differ. You can experiment and try both ways. The main thing here is to firmly press and seat the glue evenly under the tiles.

The tile is mounted on the wall with uniform pressure. Then we take a rubber mallet and seat the tile with it (or, tapping, we press down with our own hands) - this will allow the glue to settle. If you started laying tiles from the edge, then install a corner at the same stage. After that, with a short level, we check the horizontal and vertical of the laid fragment.

Advice! If the tile is not laid down correctly, you can remove it, correct the adhesive layer and lay it down again. Of course, this can only be done until the solution sets.

All tiles in a row are glued using the same technology. The smaller the tiles are, the more times you will have to repeat all these manipulations.
The next row begins to be mounted only after the previous one dries out. Keep in mind that the first row is the most critical, and it is better to let it dry for 1 day.

Advice! Do not forget to place crosses horizontally and vertically between the tiles. This makes it possible to maintain the same inter-seam dimension.

Step 4. At the last stage, the tiles are trimmed and the resulting pieces are laid. The cutting line is drawn with a ruler on the back side, after which a tile cutter (manual or electric), a grinder or a glass cutter is used.

So you can get any size of the fragment, as well as cut out the necessary recesses in the tiles for sockets and pipes.

It is only important not to cut the tiles along the front - this way the material will split in the wrong place. Holes in the tiles are made with a carbide drill and also only from the "wrong side".

Step 5. After all the tiles laid with your own hands have dried, they need to be tapped with a mallet. A dull knock indicates a poor fit of the tile. Such elements are removed and re-laid.

Step 6. After there are no doubts about the quality of the installation, you can start grouting the tile joints. In addition, all tiles must be cleaned of repair dust before processing the seams. The grout is rubbed into the seams with a rubber spatula and left for 0.5-1 hour to dry, after which it is leveled and wiped with a damp cloth.

Advice! Remember to match the shade of the grout with the color of the tile. Ideally, if it is 1 tone darker.

And the kitchen. It is moisture and heat resistant, durable and easy to clean, and the variety of textures and shades allows the material to fit into any interior. It is known that the cost of laying tiles with the involvement of professionals can double the cost of repairs, so skilled owners prefer to do this on their own. You can learn how to lay tiles in the kitchen correctly and at no extra cost from our article.

Size and calculation of the number of tiles

Kitchen apron

In order not to be mistaken with the size and, before purchasing, you should evaluate the premises and the planned scope of work. For small kitchens, it is recommended to purchase a mosaic or tile 10x10 cm, and for spacious ones, tiles with a side of 20 or 30 cm are more suitable.With regard to color and texture, the choice is limited only by the wishes of the owners, but in order for the room to look harmonious, it is worth choosing the material to match the kitchen set and other elements registration.

Measurements of the room will help to determine the amount of tiles. It is necessary to measure the area of the wall or floor that is planned to be tiled, add to them 10% of the margin for possible damage to the material during installation and trimming, and then divide by the size of one tile. This will give you the exact amount required for the repair.

Note! If at the installation site there are sockets, switches, pipes and other objects that require trimming tiles, it is better to buy tiles for the kitchen with a good margin.

Calculation of coverage in the program "Tile"

Another way to find out the required amount of material is to use a special online program. Many construction sites have built-in calculators that, when entering the initial data (length and width of the surface of interest, tile dimensions), quickly calculate the need for a tile. The advantage of such services is the ability to choose also the styling option, which significantly affects the material consumption.

Surface preparation for installation

Tiling in the kitchen begins with surface preparation. The first priority is to level the walls. With a satisfactory surface condition or minor flaws, it is enough to cover it with plaster (2.5 cm thick), and walls with cracks or elevation changes should be sheathed with plasterboard beforehand and only then proceed to the cladding. It is also necessary to remove the remnants of old paint, if any. For washing, special solutions are used, and the peeling coating is scraped off with a sharp spatula or scraper.

Leveling walls with plaster

For cladding, choose a moisture-resistant drywall and attach it to wooden slats or a profile nailed to the walls every 40 cm. To make the surface smooth, the ends of the material are cut at an angle of 45º before joining. After the installation is completed, putty is applied in the places of seams and fasteners, and then the material is covered with a primer in two layers. If the walls have been leveled with plaster, a deep penetration primer treatment is also required.

When, in addition to wall cladding, it is planned to lay tiles on the kitchen floor, the previous coating is dismantled, and the surface of the concrete screed is checked for horizontalness. If crumbling areas are found, the spoiled material is cleaned. Then the surface is dedusted and the mixture is prepared for repair, usually it is a standard cement-sand mortar or cement-based glue.

Coating priming

Potholes and crevices are filled with a mixture, carefully leveled and left to dry. Then the floor is primed in two layers, using a composition that improves adhesion, for example, "Concrete-contact". After complete drying, the surface is ready for further work.

How to lay tiles in the kitchen?

Laying tiles in the kitchen is not an easy task. At the same time, wall and floor cladding has its own nuances and differences. In addition to the material, you will need:

Any polymer-cement adhesive for interior work is suitable for fixing the tiles. The most famous is Ceresit, but it can be replaced with a cheaper domestic analogue.

Advice! If there are indelible traces of paint or other defects on the surface, it is better to purchase cementless glue.

Wall covering

We apply the markup

Let's take a look at how to lay the tiles on the walls correctly. Usually, in the kitchen, only open surfaces in the work area are tiled, the so-called apron. If you also chose this option, you should mark the level at which the kitchen table and sink will end with a horizontal line. At this mark, a metal profile is fixed with dowels, which will become a support for the lower row of tiles. Before fixing, it is necessary to check with the level the correct placement of the profile.

Then you need to prepare an adhesive solution. To do this, the mixture is diluted with water in accordance with the instructions and mixed with a drill with a special nozzle. Then the solution is allowed to brew for 10 minutes and stir it again. The tiles are laid immediately after mixing the glue.

Important! To prevent the glue from hardening on the spatula during pauses in the application of the solution, the tool must always be in a bucket of water.

The adhesive mixture is applied to the tile with a flat spatula, and then the excess is removed with a toothed tool so that even strips of mortar are obtained on the tile. The spatulas are selected depending on the size of the material. For tiles with a side of 10 cm, use a tool with teeth of 6-8 mm, and for a larger one, with teeth of 10 mm.

Application of the solution

In order for the tile to reliably connect to the wall, the material is applied in the selected place and pressed firmly evenly. The resulting result is controlled by the level and, if necessary, immediately leveled. The process is repeated until all tiles have been installed. Crosspieces are installed between the rows, regulating the position of the tile and the thickness of the seams.

Often it is not possible to revet the entire surface with solid tiles. it is better to do it with a tile cutter, but, as a last resort, you can do without it by making an incision with a glass cutter and carefully breaking the tile along the line. But this must be done carefully and, preferably, with gloves so as not to cut yourself on sharp edges. For cutting more complex contours, for example, for a socket, it is recommended to use a grinder with a diamond disc.

The correctness of the laying will be checked by level

Laying tiles on the floor

Having chosen a tile on the floor in the kitchen, you first need to practice laying it out without glue. Having laid out the tiles in several ways, which will be described in more detail below, you can choose a pattern that is more suitable and easier to implement. If there are places where the material needs to be cut, you should not do this in advance. Cutting and laying of small pieces is performed at the end, after completion of work with the main part of the coating.

Adhesive distribution

Having decided on the installation option, the surface is cleaned of debris and an adhesive solution is prepared. Floor tiles, unlike wall tiles, are fixed on a double layer of glue. The first is evenly distributed over the floor with a notched trowel, and the second (5-6 mm thick) is applied to the material with a conventional trowel.

Regardless of the method, laying tiles on the floor always starts from the center of the kitchen. To make it easier to navigate, markup is applied and the first four tiles are laid out on it, referring to the level. The tile must be tapped with a rubber mallet for a snug fit and to remove air. Further laying of the material is performed in a circle, starting from the first row, then the edges are veneered. Crosspieces are installed between the rows in the same way as in the case of wall tiles.

At the end of the installation, you should wait at least 3 days before starting to walk on the surface. Then the seams are treated with a trowel mixture and the tiled floor is ready.

Grouting

After the glue has dried and the dividing crosspieces have been removed, grout the tile joints. For this, a special powdery composition is used, which is diluted with water to a consistency of medium density. The colors of the grout are different, so you can choose it to match the cladding.

Grouting tile joints

The mixture is evenly spread over the seams using a rubber trowel or a wire cut of a suitable diameter. The grout takes 4 hours to set, after which the excess is removed with a damp sponge or rag.

Interestingly, using grout, you can further freshen up already worn-out tile flooring. How to update old tiles in the kitchen? Very simple. Seams that have lost their color and sometimes moldy are the main reason for the unpresentable look of the tile and, if the material itself is still in good condition, it will be cheaper to renew the grout.

The old mortar should be removed with a jointing or awl, the joints between the tiles should be washed with soapy water and left to dry. Then the seams are treated with a primer and filled with a new trowel mixture. Such repairs will not require large expenses, and the tiles will be able to last much longer.

Options for laying tiles in the kitchen

In addition to the technical side of the issue, it is worth dwelling in more detail on the decorative functions of the tiles. As already mentioned, there are different ways of laying tiles, the most popular are three - classic ("seam in seam"), "in a run" and "diagonally".

In the classic version, rectangular or square tiles are used, laid seam to seam. Decorative elements add variety to the pattern - panels, ornaments, materials of bright colors. This method is suitable for novice tilers due to its ease of implementation, and it also gives a minimum number of trimmings.

Classic version

Stacked laying forms a pattern that looks like brickwork, and is more often used for rectangular tiles. It is recommended to choose a tile for this pattern in a monochromatic, calm shades. This option is more relevant in traditional kitchens.

Stacking

Laying tiles diagonally opens up opportunities for complex compositions and looks more interesting. Installation is quite difficult, so before gluing the tiles in the kitchen diagonally, you should practice and apply markings to the walls or floor. You also need to take into account that only square material is used for this method.

There is another method, less popular due to its laboriousness. It combines several styling options and is called combined. At the same time, the pattern is made up of blocks laid out diagonally, "in space" and "seam in seam" (not necessarily all methods are used in one drawing). This approach requires careful thought and sketching, but if calculated correctly, the result looks professional and unusual.

In addition to experimenting with installation methods, you can diversify the design by purchasing tiles with different textures or resembling other materials. It can be wood-like tiles, imitation of natural stone or leather. The main thing is that the color and texture are combined with the interior and the general style direction.

Combined pattern

Remember that drawing up a pattern, choosing a tile and then laying it down is a creative process. By choosing the right finish for the walls or floor and using your imagination, you can emphasize all the advantages and features of the room, and deservedly be proud of the result of your labors.

The production and appearance of ceramic tiles is now improved, but the popularity of ceramics has remained unchanged for centuries.

What is so good about ceramic tiles?

versatility of use - from fireplace design to balconies, kitchens, building facades;
choice of color, size and shape for every taste;
resistance to various aggressive substances;
moisture resistant, heat resistant;
strength and durability;
it is easy to look after her;
made from natural raw materials.

The relevance of tiles on the walls

Thanks to the listed positive properties of tiles, use in the kitchen will be the right decision. A variety of colors, textures and sizes, this material fits into the interior of any style - from country to minimalism. The tile will protect against water, hot steam, oil splashes during cooking. The apron along the work surfaces will be nice and clean, as the tiles are easy to keep clean.

What kind of tiles can be put in the kitchen

Any ceramic tile can be used in the kitchen to decorate walls, a backsplash. To avoid mistakes when choosing, follow the recommendations of the professionals:

the tiles are chosen after they have decided on the style and color scheme of the kitchen set and other elements of the kitchen interior;
buy tiles with a 10-15% margin in case of a fight when laying, trimming;
the required number of tiles is calculated by the master who will be engaged in laying it. The seller in the salon does not see the walls and features of the space, the calculation will turn out to be inaccurate;
the size of the tiles is matched to the size of the apron. The large format of ceramics in a small kitchen looks like a losing streak.

For an apron, tiles are more often used:

The size is 10x10. Less pruning, easier to install if there are many corners and bends in the surface.
Clinker tiles, or hog. Suitable in any style - loft, classic, country, art deco, minimalism and other styles.
Real mosaics from 1x1 cm to 5x5 cm, or imitation with grooves that create the effect of seams between the pieces of the mosaic.
Medium format tiles - 15x15, 20x20, 20x30, 25x30 cm.

If the features of the interior or the size of the room require other options, feel free to choose what suits you.

A bold solution, for example, would be to decorate the walls with photo tiles. This is a ceramic tile, made individually, with a photo applied

DIY Technician Options

The tiles are laid on the walls in various ways. Most often used:

"Seam in seam" - tiles are laid in rows strictly one above the other, this is a classic way of laying;
"In a run" - the second row of tiles is shifted in relation to the first so that the seams between the tiles of the second row are above the center of the tiles of the first row, this is repeated in each subsequent row;
"Diagonally" is a laborious method that requires careful marking of diagonals and trimming of tiles;
"Chess" - combine tiles of two contrasting colors;
"Modular grid" - use three or more tiles of different shapes and sizes, distributing them randomly horizontally and vertically.

The tile is laid out in one of these ways, sometimes a combination of methods is used in the same room, highlighting different zones with this design.

A certain way of laying the tiles will help to visually correct the size of the room.

How to glue ceramic tiles on the wall in the kitchen

Laying ceramic tiles for different rooms and surfaces has general principles:

A laying plan is drawn up. The required number of tiles is calculated, taking into account trimming, battle.
Prepare the walls for laying.
Remove old coatings. If necessary, the walls are leveled. Then they are primed for better adhesion (adhesion) of the tile to the wall.
Next, they start laying the tiles.

How to lay an apron

First, determine the height of the apron. This space from the countertop of the kitchen unit to the wall cabinets is 60-70 cm. To avoid unnecessary trimming, the height of the apron is adjusted, and the whole tile looks better than the halves.

The first row of tiles is launched 2-3 cm below the level of the working surface. The last row is run under the wall cabinets at the same distance.

Laying technology:

On the prepared wall, using a level, draw a horizontal line for the beginning of the first row. Under this line, a metal profile or a wooden block is attached to the wall. This support will prevent the tiles from sliding down under their own weight.
Laying the tiles begins from the middle of the wall, from the most prominent central place, moving from the center to the edges.
The glue solution is kneaded immediately before laying. Follow the instructions on the packaging. A dry component is poured into the water, stirred until smooth. Defend for 10-15 minutes. Mix again.
With a spatula with teeth, an adhesive solution is applied to the wall, or to the tiles, as it is more convenient. They are applied to the wall, resting the lower edge on the profile, and evenly pressed. They knock with a rubber mallet so that excess air comes out.
Mounting crosses are placed at the upper and lower corners of the tile, which regulate the thickness of the seam.

Do you need tile joints? Yes. When the tiles expand from elevated temperatures, they protect against cracking. They also compensate for inaccuracies in the dimensions of the tiles.

Apply glue to the next tile. The steps are repeated as with the first. In this way, the entire first row is laid out. Do not forget about the crosses between the fragments.
After gluing ten tiles, remove excess glue with a damp cloth. If this is not done, the dried solution will be difficult to remove.
The second row begins after the first is completely dry. This is in a day.
Having finished gluing all the rows, the masonry is allowed to dry. Then they tap with a mallet in search of a dull sound that speaks of emptiness. Such an element is removed and glued again, carefully applying the adhesive composition to the tile.
The next step is to wipe the tile from the remnants of the glue and start grouting the joints with a fugue. Don't forget to remove the crosses.
Vertical and horizontal joints are filled with a silicone spatula with grout. An hour later, after the fugue dries, the seams are trimmed.
After completing the filling of the joints, give two hours for the grout to dry completely. The remains of the fugue are removed with a sweeping motion using a kitchen sponge. Wipe with a dry cloth, only then wash. This will leave fewer grout marks.

Do not forget to unscrew the support profile.

How to stick on a flat wall

If tiling works on flat walls are coming, then there are no special laying secrets. It is enough to prime the walls, and then follow the instructions for laying the tiles.

How to properly adhere to concrete without leveling

The concrete surface usually does not require leveling. But it has low adhesion. For good adhesion, a plaster mesh made of metal is attached to the concrete surface.

The second way - when laying ceramics on concrete, the surface is carefully primed with "Concrete Contact". The product dries for 12-18 hours. Then they start tiling.

How to put on drywall

Plasterboard walls are primed before gluing the tiles.

The only difference in laying tiles on a gypsum plasterboard surface is that the layer of adhesive solution should be as thin as possible. This is to reduce the load on the drywall.

The second difference is that after gluing, the tiles cannot be removed or corrected. When dismantled, the ceramic will come off along with a piece of drywall. Glue the tiles immediately and carefully.

A high-quality tool, the use of a special glue solution will speed up the tile laying process.

If, when laying ceramics, an adhesive solution is applied to the wall with an area equal to 3-4 tiles, then the process will accelerate. It remains to take the fragments and press them against the wall one by one.

The Raimondi Leveling System special clamping system helps to hold together several tiles, while aligning them in one plane. With these wedges and clamps, tiles do not need to be flattened.

Decorating the walls of the kitchen with ceramics, take care of the combination with other finishing materials, furniture, accessories. Buy material from trusted suppliers, follow the installation recommendations, and the result will be a cozy interior, pleasing to the eye and soul.

Useful video

The beauty of using ceramic tiles in the kitchen can hardly be overestimated, because this is a truly unique material. It is the tile that is best suited for kitchens, as it is moisture resistant, durable, not afraid of high and low temperatures and is very beautiful. This facing material is presented in a huge assortment of hardware stores. That is why it is not at all difficult to choose a tile for the individual style of your kitchen.
And everything seems to be just fine, both performance and price, but there is one negative point - the cost of installation work. Any careless owner understands that this is a serious and, in many ways, unjustified blow to the family budget. For this reason, those who do not like to throw away money decide to lay their own ceramic tiles. This approach is largely justified, because the cost of bricklayers' services is equal to the cost of materials.
We, in addition to being an information resource, are also engaged in the implementation of tools that greatly facilitate the work of a tile installer, we will talk about them below. In the meantime, we advise you to study this article, as it will describe the correct technology for laying tiles in the kitchen.

As you can imagine, any jambs to be repaired spoil the whole aesthetics of the premises and, as a rule, this is very striking. For this reason, many owners of apartments and houses do not dare to make repairs on their own. Very often they are afraid or do not understand some points in the technology of work. If you nevertheless decide to carry out the work on your own, please be patient, because if you approach the matter with due diligence, laying the tiles will become quite a feasible task for you. It is very good if you have watched at least once how the tiles are laid. If not, watch an interesting video that will give you an idea of how it's done.

Did you know how beautiful it looks? You can familiarize yourself with these wonderful room design options by following the link.
In fact, there are no very general rules and taboos for laying tiles, each installer shows individuality in certain moments. And rightly so, healthy creativity should be present in any business. In addition, there are even a lot of surface types, each of which has its own laying technology. For example, the cladding of a plasterboard surface, a painted base, and simply plastered walls is significantly different. Many bricklayers recommend not completely removing the paint, but simply making notches on the surface of the wall. Particularly meticulous installers are hostile to this technique and believe that the wall should be completely cleaned of paint and plastered, and only in this case can the tiles be laid. However, as a rule, in practice, it turns out that the tile, on the notched wall, is held securely.

But, there is one more open question, but how to put the tiles in the kitchen exactly? This can only be done if the walls are flat, so take the trouble to do this to get a good final quality. Soviet methods are also applicable to styling, but their effectiveness is in doubt. Previously, the tiles were wetted, allegedly to improve the adhesion of the tile to the wall. However, whether this is actually the case has not been proven. An ordinary tile adhesive can create a good adhesion, without the use of soaking. Today, there are three ways of laying tiles - "diagonal", "in bandaging", "seam in seam". The most technically difficult method is diagonal laying, as it requires many undercuts, which significantly increases material consumption. When laying in a tie-in method, the top rows of the tiles are shifted by half horizontally

We prepare materials and tools. Align the surface.

Once the walls are level, you should plaster them using a deep penetration primer. At the moment, a large number of different primers are being sold, in principle, practically not differing in composition. You can find out which tools are best for laying tiles !!
You should know!
The outflow from a container (for example, a canister) is a primer, it should not be poured back into the same place, in case of incomplete use. Otherwise, after a while, an unpleasant smell will begin to come out of the canister. When the primer is dry, the wall will be in perfect condition, and no grains of sand will fall off from it. This will have a positive effect on the adhesion of the adhesive to the wall.
Glue in stores is also sold in a wide range. Most bricklayers believe that the most ideal tile adhesive is Ceresit. But, import substitution in our country developed far before the sanctions, therefore, the domestic glue in composition and properties is no worse than the same Ceresit. If you don't want to overpay for a brand name, choose your own and you won't feel the difference!

We hope that you will choose your own tiles for the design, and in order to calculate the required amount, you just need to measure the area of the wall and divide it by the area of the tile. You must add ten percent to the result obtained, approximately that much will be spent on fighting and cutting. If you want to purchase tiles more accurately, then make a template out of cardboard and attach it to the wall. This will tell you exactly how many tiles you need. But in order to buy a tile without a stock, you must be sure that you can cut it without scrap. So only buy tiles without stock if you have such abilities.
If you want to end up with a beautiful kitchen, try to lay the cut tiles in inconspicuous places, where it will not be visible. You can place it on a wall that is covered with furniture, in corners that are not exposed to light, and so on. If you plan to place tiles in the center of switches and sockets or at joints, you will have to purchase tiles with a margin.
In addition to everything that we have described, you will also need
Bulgarian or tile cutter;
Bucket with water;
Pencil with a ruler;
Two spatulas (notched and small rubber, for grouting);
Metal profile with dowel nails.

The correct technology for laying tiles in the kitchen

As a rule, tiles are not laid at the kitchen table and cabinets, since this is not profitable from the economic point of view and entails an overspending of material. Now we will tell you about a possible way of laying tiles on an apron. To do this, you need to draw a horizontal line from the planned place of the beginning of the apron to the end. Further along this line, a metal profile is attached with the help of dowel-nails. The first (lower) row of tiles will be attached to it. After that, it is necessary to check the horizontal level with a building level. To adjust the seams, 3D crosses are used, or more universal tools - tile leveling systems
If you decide to make seams of 2 mm, you need to buy crosses with a thickness of 2 mm, if 3 mm, accordingly, crosses of this size are needed. You should choose a spatula depending on the size of the tile that you plan to use. The most popular spatulas have teeth measuring 6.8.10 millimeters.

The next step is kneading the glue.

If you do not know which tile adhesive to choose, then you can find out about it !!

The glue must be kneaded until the desired consistency is obtained. To get it, you need to read the instructions for use indicated on the package. Tile adhesive is kneaded manually, using a drill with a screw-shaped attachment, you can also use an electric mixer. A mixer, as a rule, can only be afforded by tilers with good income, unlike a drill.

After mixing the glue, you should let it stand for about five to ten minutes and then mix again. Such manipulations are carried out with it in order to give it softness and plasticity. To apply it, use a notched trowel, which, during operation, must be dipped in water. Otherwise, the glue on it will actively dry out and accumulate. For this reason, you will need a bucket of water, and to check the planes, apply the usual aluminum rules.

Before laying the tiles, you will need to find out where it is down and where it is up. To do this, turn it over - on the back there will be marks in the form of an arrow. For convenience, you can immediately correctly fold the stack of tiles along the arrows. Mark it from the end with a pencil, where it is up. And then you can take it out of the pile and lay it down with ease.

How to properly apply adhesive to tiles

For this purpose, a flat spatula is used. Remove excess adhesive from the flat trowel with a notched trowel. After that, the excess is placed in a container with glue, and it slides into it without effort, since the notched trowel was in a bucket of water and, accordingly, wet and slippery. The glue is located on the back of the tile in even grooves. In this case, the spatula must be held perpendicularly, without tilting. It depends on whether the correct thickness of the adhesive will be applied.

How to properly fix tiles to the wall

Take a tile, apply glue to it and gently press it all over the area. Check its position with a level so that everything is level, both vertically and horizontally. If the wall was evenly plastered, and you fixed the profile evenly along the line, then horizontally, as a rule, there are no differences. Following the first, it is necessary to glue the second tile, fix the upper and lower parts tile leveling systems or 3D crosses, depending on what you plan to use. The rule is applied to check the plane. Make sure there are no gaps.
Different craftsmen apply glue in different ways, some only on the wall, others only on the tiles, and some there and there. In principle, at the moment they sell good glue in all respects, so there is no fundamental difference between the various methods of application.

It is necessary to cut the tiles correctly. How? We will tell

Cut tiles are placed in the corners. In order to cut it, use a tile cutter. As a rule, a non-professional bricklayer does not have such tools on the farm, in which case, you need to use an ordinary glass cutter. After you make an incision on it, you need to break the tile by placing it on the table with its edge; you can also use a stool for this purpose. Perform these manipulations very carefully, as you can harm yourself if you come into contact with the sharp broken edge of the tile. It happens that in the places where plumbing or electricians are located, it is necessary to make a figured incision. A grinder with a diamond disc - a grinder - will help you to do this. Its disadvantage is that it creates a lot of dust during operation, and its advantage is that the price is much lower than a tile cutting machine.
You should know! The adjustment of the tiles on the wall can be done for a maximum of fifteen minutes, if more time passes, the panel must be removed, the adhesive from the wall must be cleaned and re-applied.

We decorate window slopes and corners

In order to arrange the window slopes or wall corners as accurately as possible, plastic corners are used. They hide the ends of the tiles. In terms of thickness, the corner should be about two millimeters larger than the panel.
The approximate drying time of the glue is one day. After this time, you need to dismantle the metal profile supporting the first row of tiles, since after a day it will no longer slip.

Finishing touches - grout

After you dismantle tile leveling systems or crosses, depending on what you used, you can start sealing the seams. A fugue will help you to do this, which you must select in accordance with the color of the grout. It is a powder that must be diluted correctly. The mixed consistency should not be too thick or runny. To distribute the grout evenly over the surface, use a rubber trowel as it will not damage the glazed layer of the tile. After applying the grout, you just need to clean the surface. To do this, use a wet cloth or sponge. And we would also like to tell you about the construction tools we sell - tile leveling systems and 3D crosses.

Tile alignment systems and 3D crosses will provide you with perfectly even seams and more!

Our online store is glad to offer you buy tile leveling systems, 'Which are excellent for cladding work. Their positive properties are that, unlike ordinary crosses, in addition to creating an even seam, they also create an impeccably even surface. For this reason, they are more versatile and more functional than the first.
All products sold by us are certified, produced at factories, using modern technologies using innovative equipment in Russia. Therefore, its cost is much lower than foreign counterparts, which are no better than SVP, DLS and Litolevel in terms of quality. The systems are made of impact-resistant plastic, which is very important since half of their parts are reusable. If you have any questions about purchasing our leveling systems, call our manager at the number indicated on the website, he will be happy to answer them. And then we would like to tell you about the benefits tile leveling systems.

Tile leveling systems have the following advantages

Applying them during the installation process, you will not encounter a “landslide” effect;
Leveling systems consist of two parts, one of which is reusable, therefore, when laying tiles in all rooms, starting from the second, you will save half the cost;
Their use guarantees obtaining absolutely even seams and surfaces;
With the laying process using leveling systems even a beginner who does not have skills in this area can cope;
Usage leveling systems speeds up the performance of facing works two to four times. Accordingly, a bricklayer for a working day is able to do at least twice as much work and, proportionally, earn more;
And many others.

Tiles are the most demanded cladding material for the kitchen. It meets all the specifications to cope with high humidity and more. This article will tell you the secrets of how to lay out tiles in the kitchen on your own. To begin with, it is worth discussing the intricacies of creating a design.

Design project

First of all, you need to make a design project that will help you see the final result.

When developing it, it is necessary to take into account several factors:

Surface type. The tile you choose should be easy to clean. For example, a glossy surface is very easily soiled. The smallest dirt will be visible on it, even dried drops of clean water. The matte surface has its own privilege - it does not slip.
Colour. It is necessary to take into account the style and design of the future interior, namely the color of the kitchen set and other furniture. There are no strict rules here, be guided by your own taste.
Shape and size. Thanks to the correct choice of tiles, kitchen renovation can give a room different effects, for example, visually enlarge or reduce the room. You should immediately decide on the type of tile for the apron.
Laying scheme. This is another important nuance that allows you to give the room a special appearance. The masonry pattern depends on the shape of the tile. If it is rectangular, then it can be laid horizontally, vertically or diagonally. Vertically, the walls visually stretch upwards, horizontally, the area visually increases.

Material calculation

The amount of tiles required is determined by the area of masonry floors, walls, etc. Knowing the initial area, you will be able to make an accurate calculation of the material. However, there are some nuances.

Consider the following points:

It is not always advisable to lay tiles on walls where furniture, refrigerator and other stationary large objects will be installed. This will save the family budget.
Determine in advance the pattern and masonry scheme. Laying ceramic tiles diagonally in the kitchen creates a large amount of scrap. Accordingly, the consumption of material increases. If decor or other pattern on the wall / floor will be used, then the number of such tiles is counted by the piece.
Always buy tiles with a small margin. During the laying process, the tile can accidentally break or deteriorate (by making a cut of the wrong size). It's good when there is a small margin.

Instructions for laying tiles in the kitchen

The whole process of work consists of several sequential stages:

Surface preparation.
Primer application.
Markup.
Masonry.
Grouting.

First, we will collect the necessary tools and material for work:

Surface preparation

Regardless of the type of surface (floor or wall), the preparation process is reduced to the same actions. The old cladding must be completely removed from the wall / floor.

The tiles are laid on a clean and level surface. To do this, examine it. If there are cracks or obvious irregularities, then it is recommended to level the surface, and cover the cracks.

In most cases, it is best to remove the old plaster layer, install beacons and plaster the wall. For plastering, ready-made plaster mixes are used. Sometimes drywall is mounted on the walls, this is the fastest way to level the surface.

When it comes to the field, then a self-leveling mixture is used to level it. Also, a cement-sand screed is made, which is poured over the lighthouses. In this case, laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen can only be carried out after the screed has completely dried.

After leveling the base under the tile, the surface must be primed to increase the quality of adhesion of the tile adhesive to the wall. A deep penetration primer is often used.

To lay the tiles yourself, the markup must be done. This will help you plan your masonry layout. The markup is done with a pencil. If we are talking about a field, then it is necessary to find the center of the room.

Make sure that small scraps do not come out near the walls. Make the markings so that on the visible side the tiles near the wall are solid, and the trims are under the working area.

Laying tiles on drywall is easier. Plus, the markup is easy to make on drywall. You need to fix the second row guide profile on the wall. The profile is set strictly according to the level.

Wall masonry

At this stage, the place and option for laying tiles in the kitchen should already be known.

The masonry process is as follows:

markings are applied so that there is a solid tile in the corners. Especially if the corners are visible;
tile glue is kneaded;
glue is applied with an ordinary spatula to the wall surface in a thin layer;
also the glue is applied with a comb on the tile;
immediately remove the protruding glue with a spatula;
put subsequent tiles in the same way;
plastic crosses are used to form the seam;
make sure that no tile adhesive remains in the seams;
control the level horizontally and vertically; when the glue on the first rows of tiles has dried, the guide rail is dismantled, and the tiles are cut to size on the first row and placed. In this case, the tile should already be on the floor.

Having laid out the entire wall, it remains to grout the joints with a special trowel mass.

Apron masonry

An apron means a working area between the worktop and the shelves. The height of the backsplash should be slightly higher by 20–30 mm, so that the set on top overlaps the edge of the top row of tiles.

The hood is usually located above the lower level of the suspended headset. Therefore, in this place, the tiles on the apron will come out slightly upward.

The process of laying an apron is reduced to the following stages:

also set the starting profile for the first row;
the bottom of the first row tile should be slightly lower than the top of the countertop;
apply glue to the wall and tile surface with a comb;
apply the tile to the wall and press it moderately;
it is necessary to ensure that the glue under the tiles completely fills the entire space;
also remove the protruding glue from the seams between the tiles;
there are usually sockets on the work wall; therefore, using cutters, you make holes in the required tiles;
if you plan to decorate the apron, then do not forget about it;
after the completion of the laying, all joints should be wiped off.

Floor laying

Laying floor tiles in the kitchen is carried out in a similar sequence, but there are some peculiarities.
The process of laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen is carried out in the following sequence:

Apply markings on the floor, determine its center and the location of the picture, if any.
Laying tiles in the kitchen on the floor must be started from the far corner from the entrance.
Apply tile adhesive to a small area of the surface with a comb. If the floor is level, the glue layer will be minimal.
Also apply glue to the tiles.
Put several tiles on the floor at once, forming a square.
Apply a level and align everything horizontally.
Glue squeezed out through the joints must be removed immediately in order to be filled with grout.
Be sure to insert crosses between the cladding elements to form an even seam.
When the adhesive has set, you can start grouting the joints.

Decoration of window slopes

In addition to laying tiles in the kitchen with their own hands on the floor, walls and an apron, many decide to lay out the tiles on the window slopes.
This requires the purchase of a plastic outdoor corner. The cladding end will be hidden in it.

The thickness of the corner is determined by the thickness of the tile. If its thickness is 7 mm, then the corner should be 9 mm. If the thickness of the corner is less, then the edge of the end of the tile will be visible.

Conclusion
So, here we have considered all the secrets of how tiles are laid in the kitchen. Adhering to these recommendations, you will be able to cope with all the work on your own, without the involvement of a specialist. For greater confidence, we offer you to view the prepared video material.

We put the kitchen in order - we glue the apron