Having even a small plot of land, it is difficult to do without a greenhouse. Grow seedlings, get an early harvest, cover them from possible frost, from heat, make plants bloom earlier - all this can be done with this device. Moreover, it is not difficult to make a greenhouse with your own hands. There are very simple designs, there are more complex ones, but the manufacture of any of them does not require special education.
The frame for a greenhouse can be made of wood (boards), metal (corner, profile pipe or fittings) or PVC pipes (round or square). Cover the greenhouse with the same materials as : film, spunbond (also called agrofibre or non-woven covering material), polycarbonate and glass. Since the size of the greenhouses is smaller (the plants in the greenhouses are served outside), the requirements for them are not so strict: even a strong wind is not afraid of them.
Greenhouse dimensions
Since plants are served outside in a greenhouse, its width is chosen so that it is comfortable for you to process plants planted closer to the middle. Determine this empirically: sit down, and try to reach out to some area with your hand. You measure the distance. Get the width of the greenhouse with a one-sided approach. This is if the greenhouse is located in such a way that it cannot be approached from the second side (near the wall, for example). If you can approach from two sides, this result is doubled.
The distance for each person is different: height and physical condition affect. Do not chase economy by making it wider than necessary. You will have to spend a lot of time on weeding, loosening, fertilizing, and other work. A couple of hours in an uncomfortable position, and no strength remains. Therefore, it is better to make the greenhouse a little narrower, but to make it convenient to work: while enjoying work, you spend less effort.
And the length of the greenhouse is chosen based on the layout of the site. She is arbitrary.
A simple greenhouse made of arcs under a film or spunbond
This greenhouse is made from several boards knocked down to the required dimensions, PVC pipe arcs, which are attached to a wooden base. The tops of these arcs are connected at the top with a beam or the same pipe. If it is a bar, it must be well processed, rounding the edges so that the film does not tear.
How to fix arcs
About how to fix the arcs of PVC pipes on the frame of the greenhouse. Fasten most often using a metal perforated tape. They take a small piece of it 5-6 centimeters, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. And fixed on both sides. For reliability it is possible twice.
In exactly the same way, you can fix them from the inside, so that they hold tight, add bars.
Another option: drive in pieces of reinforcement near the frame, and put pipes on them and only then fix them with clamps to the frame boards. This option is more reliable.
How to attach film
You can attach the film to PVC pipes with double-sided tape. But only if the film was used inexpensive polyethylene: it is impossible to tear it off without damaging it, and polyethylene lasts no more than a year. So for a seasonal greenhouse, this option is from the category of "cheap and cheerful." The second way is special clips for fixing films and everything that can replace them - a piece of an old hose cut lengthwise, a pipe clamp that is used for installing pipelines, stationery binders, etc.
It also makes sense to fix the bar on both sides along the edges of the film. To do this, the film is cut off more than necessary in length, a bar is wrapped in excess and the film is fixed on it. Now you have a piece of film, on the short sides of which bars are attached. Leave one on one side, throw the other on the other. Now you do not need to press the film to the ground with stones: a bar holds it well. It is also convenient to open the greenhouse for ventilation with it, they wound the film, put it upstairs.
You can use small nails to fasten the film, but put washers under the caps. Faster work with a construction stapler with staples. So that the film does not tear at the attachment points, it is laid with something. It is possible - a dense braid or just a strip of fabric, and fasteners are already hammered into it.
More powerful option
If there is a need to make a greenhouse with PVC arcs more reliable, wooden racks are nailed to the base of the boards in the center of the short side. A board is attached to them on the edge, in which holes are pre-drilled with a diameter larger than the outer diameter of the pipes.
During installation, the pipe is threaded through the hole. You can fix it on the sides as suggested above, or do it differently: pre-install the studs in the bars, and put the pipe on them.
The simplest greenhouse
What is good about PVC pipes is that they are easy to bend. Also, they weigh little. Ideal for a lightweight portable greenhouse, especially when paired with spunbond. This material can be sewn. Take a piece with a density of 30 kg / m2, in increments of 50 -60 cm, make drawstrings in it. For a drawstring, stitch across a strip of the same material about 10 cm wide (it is stitched on both sides). Inside, insert the pipes cut into the desired sections.
Now all this can be installed on the bed: stick the pegs in two rows on one and the other side of the bed, put a pipe on them. Immediately you get a ready-made greenhouse. And what else is convenient: you open and close the plants simply by collecting or straightening the spunbond on an arc. This is a very convenient temporary greenhouse: as soon as it is not needed, it can be removed and folded in a couple of minutes.
Greenhouse - it couldn't be easier
This greenhouse is good for seedlings, but you can do it for pepper, eggplant. A stand is nailed in the middle of the base. To it are two inclined boards. The cross section is a triangle. If you need a long greenhouse, about every meter install the same design. All tops are connected with a long bar or pipe. This greenhouse has a simple and convenient design.
Cucumbers are grown with it only until they begin to curl. Under the cucumbers, the covering material is removed, racks are nailed (screwed) to the sidewalls, between which the twine is pulled.
Greenhouse "Khlebnitsa" and "Butterfly" - photo
This design is called "bread box" due to the fact that one to one is similar to plastic containers for bread. Its lid also rises up, hiding behind the second half. If you look at the photo, you will understand everything.
There are two types of such products: opening from one or from two sides. If it is shallow, you can work with a lid that opens on one side. If the width is more than a meter, it will be easier to work if there is access from two sides. This design with two opening sides has its own name: "Snail".
A film, spunbond is stretched onto the frame, but polycarbonate is more popular for this design.
The second design differs in the type of door opening. Its vault is also made on arcs, but it opens up on hinges (see picture).
They can be installed directly on the ground or on a prepared base of bricks or timber. In some cases, the covers do not open immediately from the ground, but there is a small side 15-20 cm.
From improvised materials
Turning unnecessary things into useful products - our people have no equal in this. They make greenhouses from things that you would never even think of.
For example, you can easily make a greenhouse with your own hands from old window frames. When replacing windows, do not rush to throw them away. They make a great greenhouse. Moreover, the designs may be different. The simplest is a body made of boards, to which a window frame is attached as a cover (with glass, of course).
In order for the plants to receive maximum light, one of the sides of the frame is made higher (which faces south or east). There are different frames, any of them can be used for these purposes. As proof - a photo gallery of greenhouses made of frames that were made by diligent owners with their own hands.
They make greenhouses from barrels. Cover with an old transparent film umbrella or cut plastic water canisters.
A homemade greenhouse can be made from a plastic or foam box. Although "do" is a strong word. All you need is to stretch the film.
Mini greenhouses for seedlings
For those who grow seedlings for their own garden or flower garden, large volumes are useless. We need small greenhouses. And many grow seedlings on balconies. All of the above designs can be used for a reduced size balcony. For very small plantings, you can generally take plastic egg trays. On the one hand, you get a container for the soil and, and the lid will be instead of a shelter. See photos for other ideas.
The use of plastic bottles is already familiar, only the shape is non-standard. The bottle is only cut and a glass with seedlings is inserted inside, or you can plant it right in the lower part ... And this is a portable mini-greenhouse for plants
A greenhouse with your own hands can be assembled in a few hours. No complex structures will have to be built. Everything is very simple, economical and practical.
A good greenhouse is an island of a garden that is not subject to the influences of the weather and the adverse effects of the external environment. In the greenhouse, you can maintain favorable conditions for growing fresh vegetables and herbs, even in the winter season. In addition, it can lay a winter garden with exotic plants or a greenhouse for flowers.
You can install a greenhouse yourself, although at first glance this process may seem too complicated. Amateur gardeners have long been installing such structures on their plots. To install such a structure, it is enough to know what materials will be required and for what purposes the greenhouse will serve. In this article, we will help you figure out how to build a greenhouse with your own hands, and we also attach a photo and a step-by-step video instruction.
The main elements of the structure
The base of the greenhouse consists of several components. The main structural element is the frame. It is worth paying attention when choosing a frame to the fact that the higher its strength, the more stable the entire structure.
Basically, three types of frame are chosen for greenhouses: from a wooden beam , from steel or PVC profile .
Wooden frame fairly easy to construct. The main disadvantage of this design is that it is unstable to the influence of adverse factors. To increase stability, it is necessary to additionally treat with protective agents. The main advantage of wood is that it is a natural ecological material.
Frame made of steel elements .Usually, a galvanized steel profile is used for the frame of greenhouses. Such a frame is durable and wear-resistant, well resists increased loads. A greenhouse with such a frame is not afraid of strong wind, hail or snow.
Note! The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so additional treatment will be required for protection.
Some gardeners fear that the metal will adversely affect the development of plants. This assumption is completely baseless.
Frame made of PVC elements . Greenhouses with a PVC profile frame are also environmentally friendly. The stability of the frame directly depends on the thickness and strength of the profile used. The main advantage of this material is that it allows you to build sealed structures in which you can create a special microclimate.
In buildings made of PVC profiles, winter gardens and greenhouses are often placed, where you can comfortably relax in the winter. The main disadvantage of such greenhouses is the rather high cost of PVC profiles.
Note! Before planning the installation of a greenhouse, it is necessary to consider all types of materials for the manufacture of the frame of the future greenhouse.
Types of materials for covering greenhouses
For reliable protection of plants in a greenhouse, it is necessary to choose a suitable coating. To date, you can stop the choice on the main three types of material: glass, various types of film or PVC.
glass cover. Glass with good strength is required to cover the greenhouse. Tempered glass or triplex is best suited. When using other types of glass, you will have to install several glasses.
The most suitable option is to install special safety glass that can withstand hail, wind and snow. A significant disadvantage of glass is that ultraviolet radiation enters the greenhouse along with infrared rays.
Film coating. Film coating remains the most common and popular material for covering any greenhouse. Some types of film have good strength and wear resistance; with proper care, such a film can last several years.
Currently, the following types of film are produced specifically for covering greenhouses and hotbeds:
1. Reinforced;
2. Light-transforming.
Reinforced film It is highly durable and resists wear well. This film protects plants well from frost. This type of film is popular with amateur gardeners.
Special light-transforming film differs in that it converts ultraviolet rays into infrared radiation. This useful property allows you to increase the yield of plants and stimulates good growth.
Cellular polycarbonate. This material has a good density, does not fade, can be used for many years without losing its properties. Polycarbonate equally well resists temperature changes, has good thermal insulation, is not afraid of either frost or heat.
Depending on the thickness of the plate, polycarbonate is used for various purposes:
3.5mm
- used for the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses;
4 mm
– applicable for the construction of sheds and greenhouses;
6 mm
- for the construction of stained-glass windows, canopies and greenhouses;
8 mm
- can be used for all the above mentioned purposes and other purposes.
You can buy cellular polycarbonate at a price of 80 to 850 rubles. per 1 m2, the price varies depending on the type and thickness of the plates.
Choosing a place to install a greenhouse
It is advisable, when using the greenhouse in winter, to place it on one of the sides, closer to the place from which you can connect electricity to it. In winter, the greenhouse needs additional lighting and the connection of other heating devices.
Note! To place the greenhouse, you must choose the right location.
When operating a greenhouse in winter, it is desirable to have its long sides from south to north for the best illumination and plant growth.
It is desirable to install greenhouses on elevated places so that water does not stagnate in this place. It is also better not to install a greenhouse between trees or in the shade, since good lighting is necessary for better plant growth.
The composition of the soil under the greenhouse should ideally correspond to the type of plants that will grow in it.
Varieties of greenhouses
Before installing the greenhouse, you have to choose its type. Using modern materials, in particular the PVC profile, it is possible to construct structures of various geometric shapes.
The most common types of structures with a variety of roofs: single-pitched, double-pitched, hipped. In addition, it is possible to provide for the possibility of dismantling the greenhouse for the winter, or in order to move it to a new place every season.
How to find out what type of foundation is suitable for a future greenhouse
First of all, it depends on the purpose of using the greenhouse. For a temporary greenhouse, you can not build a foundation, you can simply use empty plastic bottles. For a capital greenhouse, which will be operated year-round, it is necessary to install a foundation.
The most practical for such a purpose would be the usual one. It is better to make the depth of the ditch for such a foundation just below the freezing level of the soil, but not less than 70-80 cm. It is good to lay sand or gravel on the bottom. The foundation can be reinforced with a reinforced belt laid in a concrete solution.
Note! The strength of the foundation for glass greenhouses is especially important, since glass can crack if it is strongly deformed.
Installation of the greenhouse frame
Today you can buy a ready-made greenhouse, which remains only to be assembled on a pre-built foundation.
From practical experience in mounting a frame for a galvanized steel greenhouse, we can conclude that it is better to fasten frame elements with bolts and nuts, since welding seams corrode under the action of moisture.
When constructing a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate, you should be aware that this material tends to expand when exposed to high temperatures, and shrink under the influence of frost. For better tightness during the installation of the greenhouse, you will need to use silicone putty and sealant. When installing the frame of the greenhouse, do not forget about the placement of window openings for ventilation. Currently, greenhouses are equipped with various devices, the simplest of which is automated watering of plants.
Usually polygonal greenhouses consist of 8 faces. This type of design has a number of advantages:
- This design collects sunlight better, since the sun constantly hits one of the faces;
- Such a structure is perfect for placing a winter garden, as it looks aesthetically pleasing and attractive;
- The multi-level greenhouse resists heavy snowfall and wind well.
When constructing such a structure, you may encounter a problem when using glass. Such a greenhouse will require glass of a special size and configuration, which will have to be made to order.
Another disadvantage of such a greenhouse is that the air in this building warms up unevenly, but this is easy to fix. For this case, special technical devices can be used.
Video on how to build a greenhouse in stages with your own hands:
Standard greenhouses offered by manufacturers are not always suitable for the conditions of a particular site. Engineer Vladimir Blagodatskikh told how he built a capital “house for plants” according to an individual project:
Not so long ago I had a chance to build a greenhouse for good friends. The "Green House" on their site had to fit strictly in the gap between the garage and the barn. True, such a combination implied a convenient passage to the plants from two sides in the complete absence of the end walls of the greenhouse. But I had to think about the design myself.
Having designed the frame, I purchased metal pipes of rectangular and square sections (60 × 30 and 20 × 20 mm), as well as corners and strips of different widths. To make all the arches the same, I made a special template for assembling them. The parts were connected by electric arc welding. I installed the finished arches vertically on a pre-poured concrete foundation, and then welded longitudinal pipes to them - runs. The size of the foundation turned out to be 5.3 × 9.5 m (area - 50 m²), and the height of the greenhouse in the ridge was approximately 3.6 m. .05 m
I made a transparent cover of the greenhouse from different materials (photo 1). Basically, these are polycarbonate sheets with a thickness of 10 mm, but glazed wooden window frames go along one wall (this step was taken for reasons of economy). So that the plastic does not overheat on dark metal and last longer, I did not attach it directly to the frame. First, I welded additional corners and strips to the racks, screwed wooden slats to them, and already fixed the polycarbonate on them with self-tapping screws through plastic washers.
Photo 1.
The ventilation system turned out to be interesting (photo 2). It consists of two independent parts: side (in one of the vertical walls of the greenhouse) and tent (in the roof along the entire length of the greenhouse on both sides of the ridge). The transoms are opened manually, but all together with the help of a cunningly designed system of cables and rails. The levers for opening the frames are located on the wall at the entrance to the greenhouse.
Photo 2.
In conclusion, I equipped the greenhouse with reliable trellises for tying plants (photo 3). They are made of a steel cable in a plastic sheath, stretched between the end walls of the greenhouse using a tensioning device (lanyard). To prevent the cable from sagging, it rests on horizontal frame ties located at a height of approximately 2.2 m from the ground.
6 signs of a good greenhouse
Many summer residents do not build greenhouses themselves, but purchase ready-made ones. The most popular products are arched, with a metal frame and a polycarbonate coating. And they only look the same at first glance.
1. Dimensions
The larger (and taller) the greenhouse, the better! It will be easier to maintain the desired temperature and humidity without sudden changes. On the other hand, the size of low-cost greenhouses is usually limited by material standards (for example, the length and width of a polycarbonate sheet, the length of rolled metal products, etc.). A compromise, quite a working option is a greenhouse 3 × 4 or 3 × 6 m. “Tunnels” of greater length will require additional vents in the roof or walls, and not just at the ends.
2. Coating
Polycarbonate with a thickness of at least 6 mm significantly enhances the strength of the greenhouse, and its thermal insulation properties are much better. Thin, 4 mm, will have to be changed more often. Saving immediately on both the frame and the coating is not the best idea: the greenhouse will be flimsy. Good plastic necessarily has protection from ultraviolet radiation - it will help the greenhouse coating not become cloudy and not lose strength over time. Information about the presence of a protective layer is printed on the packaging of polycarbonate. In addition, the side of the sheet that will be facing outward on the finished greenhouse is necessarily marked.
And of course, a reliable manufacturer does not save on trifles - self-tapping screws and sealing washers, with which the coating is attached to the frame.
3. Frame
Professionals agree that a frame made of a square or rectangular metal pipe is stronger and more durable than a frame made of a profile or a corner. It is even better if the supporting arcs of the greenhouse are made double. But if a double frame is too expensive, you can put supports in the greenhouse every autumn, and after heavy snowfalls, come and throw off the snow from it. In any case, the thickness of the metal must be at least 1 mm, and elements reinforcing the structure must be provided in the greenhouse.
A galvanized frame is more durable than a painted one, but more expensive, and, unfortunately, the most durable versions of “galvanized” metal structures are rare on sale.
4. Doors
Convenient greenhouse entry and tight closing doors are something the greenhouse owner will have to deal with all season long. On the contrary, an ill-fitting door with sharp corners and metal burrs can not only spoil the whole impression, but also become a source of drafts.
5. Air vents
For high-quality ventilation of plants, there should be at least two vents in the greenhouse, and according to the rules, their area should be at least 15% of the area of the entire coverage (for growing tomatoes). Simply put, a good greenhouse has a lot of them and they are big!
6. Automation
Greenhouse ventilation systems without human intervention are an excellent solution: they are quite inexpensive, and save time and labor noticeably. It is better to take them immediately complete with a greenhouse: the manufacturer usually knows which system is more convenient to put on the doors and windows of his brainchild.
Automatic drip irrigation allows you to leave your favorite plants unattended for a week or more. The thing is necessary, but its acquisition and installation can be postponed until spring.
Nowadays, he dreams of building a greenhouse on his site. A greenhouse is a very profitable building for a summer resident, because seedlings can be planted much earlier and, accordingly, the crop will ripen faster than in the garden. In the greenhouse, the humidity and microclimate favor the rapid growth of plants and vegetables. You can also grow seedlings in a greenhouse, for example, for sale, agree that it is a good help for the family budget. And if you build a larger greenhouse, you can even organize a family business and grow part of the vegetables for sale.
Basically, summer residents build greenhouses of small sizes and from materials such as plastic wrap or glass. This type of material is certainly good on the one hand. For example, a construction made of wood and polyethylene film, it is light and does not allow moisture and cold air to pass through from the outside side of the greenhouse. But the trouble is that this film, under the influence of direct sunlight and precipitation and wind, becomes unusable after one season of operation.
Also, summer residents build a glazed type of greenhouses, which also have their drawbacks. Firstly, the glass structure still has a decent weight, which can often affect a wooden building; of course, such a greenhouse will last longer. And one more problem - glass tends to shatter and crumble, for example, from hail or strong gusty winds.
Fortunately for all summer residents in our time there is a universal material for greenhouses that has already gained not a little popularity and respect, and this material is called polycarbonate. Lightweight and durable, it transmits sunlight very well. The stores have a large selection of such polycarbonate greenhouses, but the price for them, of course, is not small and not everyone can afford it.
But what about a simple person, if he wants a greenhouse made of this material, of course, use ingenuity and imagination. So the author decided to build a do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse. He bought this material in sheet form, which is much cheaper than buying a ready-made greenhouse. And the author decided to build a capital greenhouse, so that it would last until the end of his days and so that his grandchildren would also use it.
The author is building a greenhouse with a recess in the ground, which will provide increased thermal comfort for vegetables and plants planted there. Makes a solid construction of timber and boards. And so, what did the author need to build this greenhouse.
Materials: polycarbonate, brick, cement, sand, timber, board, nails, screws, hinges.
Instruments: hacksaw, hammer, pliers, axe, shovel, trowel, mallet, mortar trough.
Then he fills the foundation and lays out the brick base
In the future, he builds a wooden frame for the future greenhouse from timber and boards.
Then the glazing of the greenhouse begins from the roof.
And then, step by step, he continues to trim the greenhouse with polycarbonate.
Then he hangs the door and in fact the whole greenhouse is ready.
Inside, I made such beds for seedlings made of bricks, such ones will definitely stand for a century.
If you are planning to build a greenhouse with your own hands, first of all you need to decide which material to prefer - used or buy new. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages, second hand materials cost next to nothing, but you will need some time to find and collect, and such material can be more difficult to work with, matching elements that match each other.
New materials, on the contrary, are very convenient to use, but cost money. Building a greenhouse on your own will take some time, so it’s best to plan ahead and set aside 2-3 days for this work. You also need to decide what you will make a home greenhouse from - home-made greenhouses are usually film, glazed, or built using polycarbonate.
So, the main questions, from what and how to make a greenhouse, have been resolved, and the planning stage is over - now you can proceed directly to the construction of a home-made greenhouse.
The dimensions of the greenhouse considered in this article are 3.6 meters wide and 5 meters long, with a central height of about 2.5 meters. The length of your greenhouse can be longer or shorter, but when building a structure for this project, the width should be in the region of 3.3-4 meters.
If your greenhouse roof is too flat, it may fall apart!
How to make an arched greenhouse strong and reliable, so that it doesn’t happen that your greenhouse surrenders under the onslaught of the first downpour or snowfall. In an attempt to make the bottom of the greenhouse more spacious, you might try to make it wider and lower - but be careful! In the event that your area has a lot of rainfall, snow and rain roll off a steeper roof much more efficiently than a flat one. A greenhouse roof that is too flat will sag under the weight of the water and snow, causing damage to the roof.
So, how to make a greenhouse with your own hands?
We started the construction of the greenhouse with the end walls, although this is not at all a prerequisite, you can build the main structure first, and do the ends later. Do it the way you feel most comfortable.
First, to outline the greenhouse, temporarily attach a piece of PVC pipe to a wooden plank.
Pre-drill a hole in the pipe and attach to the wooden element with a self-tapping screw.
Assemble the rest of the frame, including the doorway. The width of the doorway depends on the size of the door, the width of which can vary from 1 to 1.5 meters. The wooden sill can be sawn off later, when it comes to installing the greenhouse door.
To make the frame joints more durable, you can glue them using a special glue designed for outdoor use.
After the assembly of the wooden frame is completed, it is necessary to mark the contours of the greenhouse on the planks.
Remove the PVC pipe and saw off the extra pieces of the wooden plank along the contour.
Re-fasten the plastic pipe to its rightful place, along the outside of the frame. For this purpose, you can use self-tapping screws and wire anchors.
Rear end wall of the greenhouse.
And the front end wall of the greenhouse... The polyethylene film, which is planned to be attached to the structure later, will completely wrap the frame and be fixed on the wooden parts of the end. If you don't have enough wood in the frame of the end walls, then there may be problems with fixing the film. A poorly fixed film will sag and tear off at the first strong gusts of wind.
A roll of film can be spread directly on the frame to measure the desired piece.
Cut off a piece of film with a sharp knife, placing something solid under it.
After fixing the film on one side, you need to turn the frame of the end wall, and fix an additional layer on the other side.
Then carefully cut off the excess piece of film.
Cut a hole in the end wall for the doorway, leaving enough film to double-fold it before attaching it to the frame. Pay attention to the cuts in the upper corners of the hole for the opening.
That's about it!
Drive long pieces of rebar or steel fence posts into the ground at a distance equal to the width of the doorway.
Align the posts vertically with a plumb line.
Tie the frame of the arched greenhouse to the fence posts using wire anchors, wire or rope.
Once the end walls are in place, run a string through the entire length to mark the installation line for the side ribs of the greenhouse.
Along the line, at a distance of one meter from each other, drive in pegs from the reinforcement to secure the intermediate ribs.
Fix PVC pipes on pegs, and the greenhouse takes shape. For a stronger and more stable structure, you can use a thicker pipe or place the ribs of the greenhouse more often than one meter apart.
During the construction of this greenhouse, the ribs turned out to be shorter than planned, so it was decided to lengthen them a little.
We decided to lengthen the fins with pieces of PVC conduit. By the way, gray PVC conduit is more resistant to solar heat. Therefore, the ribs of the greenhouse can be completely made of conduit.
In case you live in an area where it rains or snows a lot, you will need to install an additional PVC pipe right in the center of the arched greenhouse.
A comb of thick PVC pipe, fixed at the top of the frame, will prevent sagging of the film and collapse of the structure.
Screw the side ribs to the comb with self-tapping screws, and secure with a rope for fidelity. In case of heavy snowfall, it is recommended to install props inside the greenhouse during bad weather.
Fix each connection with wire anchors and fasten with self-tapping screws.
Using pieces of wood to twist the wire together and pull it tight. Wire spacers make the structure more stable and durable.
Measure and cut the plastic wrap, you will need to measure off some of the excess film from all sides so that you can roll it up a bit at the ends later.
Fix the film on a wooden plank with a stapler.
Once the film is stapled onto the wooden plank, a full turn must be made to completely wrap the plank in polyethylene.
Fix the film with self-tapping screws using a drill. Wrap the ends of the plastic film around the wooden plank and attach an additional plank over the film - this will help to securely fix the film and make the structure heavier. Fix the opposite end of the film in the same way, roll it up and take it closer to the greenhouse. For this job, you will need another person to help roll, unfold, and wrap the frame of the greenhouse.
So, the main work is completed, there are minor improvements that you can easily handle. Sprinkle the lower end of the film wall with earth or mulch to get rid of cracks and drafts; bricks, tiles or stones can be laid on top of the earth embankment, along the outer office of the greenhouse.
Well, that's all, now you know how to make a greenhouse with your own hands!