A ship made of boards. How to make a boat out of paper, wood or bottle caps. Styrofoam boat

This toy was inspired by a group in contact, where we started a kind of flash mob on the theme of toy shipbuilding. Here is a photo of these wooden boats:

So I, as an activator of this movement, decided to keep up and also slap the little ship with such a ship, of course, with a photo of the whole process, so that a kind of instruction would be obtained. No sooner said than done. I took my son out of kindergarten early and flooded into the garage.

We found a suitable board and started creating. First, the nose of the boat was cut out on the miter saw (cut off the corner), the son sawed himself, he was madly happy, and I sat next to him and controlled his every movement))). Do not look that the knees are within the reach of the saw and the wire is in the same place)))- the shot is staged, the child stands nearby steadily, in full growth, holds the saw with both hands))) no one was hurt during the work)))

The result is such a shtaketina. I think it is not worth dwelling too much on the fact that it is fashionable to do without a miter saw. (and there will be less gray hair)
Then he stroked the workpiece a little. At this point, I drove my son away from the electric plane (he was offended, but did not go far).

With a plane, I not only took off the burrs, but also gave the original shape to the deck - even, the bottom a little filled up to the sides, forming a kind of keel. The photo shows not so good ...

Then he pulled the board to the workbench with a pair of clamps, took the LShM in his hands and began to bring the contours of the body to mind ...

He grinded the bottom and deck, narrowed the hull, filled up the sides and bow. In general, I did it beautifully.

The next step was to make a cutout for the wheel. At first I wanted to choose it beautifully with a router, but then I became too lazy to mess around and I did it with a jigsaw. Marked. Drilled a couple of holes in the corners

And then he connected all these points with a jigsaw. At the same time, he separated the hull from the "slipway".

After that, he shoved the case, sandpaper into Yaroslavka's teeth, gave out to the control center: "so to speak, from the fence to sunset" and set to the propeller.

I took plywood as a material. There was no three-layer, so with the help of a knife, a hammer and some kind of mother, I made what was required from the six-layer. Modified with a file (or rather, all the same LShM). From the resulting pieces, I cut out a couple of identical parts of the size "so that they could pass into the wheel niche with a margin."

Pulling them off with a clamp on the LShM (inverted) made them the same and rounded the edges. Then he marked out the center and made a cut to the middle.

The details are assembled with each other "in the groove". The village is dense enough, I even had to use a hammer a little ... It turned out like this.

The time allotted to us before training was running out, so the idea with the Lego captain had to be abandoned, he whipped up a solid cabin and we ran home. In the kitchen I stuck the wheelhouse for a moment, clamped it with a clamp and everyone ran to train)))))

In the evening, just the glue has dried, sit down to finish. stole a couple of sushi sticks from my mother and put them into action: Drilled seats for paddle wheel holders and a mast

And they put all this variety on glue. At the same time, they made a ray from a toothpick.

After that, they pulled on the rubber bands (a couple of pharmaceutical rubber bands were used), put the wheel on and proceeded to sea trials.

I must say that the idea works. On a good level, of course, the ship should be impregnated with something to protect it from moisture, and add rubber bands for power ... But the child is happy with the result, and I, in principle, too.

So, dear dads, we make our own boats and put them in a group)))). Then we will arrange a vote and choose a winner if there are at least ten.

The tree itself, the felling time, and the drying process are of interest to companies selling timber and loggers, who buy standing timber, cut it into lumber and store it. The designer and builder of ships are interested in data on strength, durability, processing possibilities, the cost of wood, etc. In addition to taking these factors into account, they should rely on their qualifications and experience in their work.

Of the whole variety of wood species common in the post-Soviet space, no more than a dozen can be used for the construction of ship hulls - they are distinguished by moisture resistance and strength. For the manufacture of external cladding, conifers are suitable, containing resin in their fibers and oak, in the wood of which there are tannins that prevent decay.

Pine, spruce, larch, cedar, oak and ash are most widely used in small shipbuilding, and of the imported species - mahogany of various varieties and Honduran cedar.

Pine has high strength - 100 N / mm 2, light (bulk density 0.51-0.55 t / m 3), straight-layered, easy to process. It is used for all parts of the kit, plating and other parts of wooden ships. Fine-grained yellowish pine is preferred.

Spruce- less durable (80 N / mm 2), pricks easily, but has good water resistance. It is considered a good material for siding, frames, longitudinal set. Volumetric weight - 0.46 t / m 3.

Larch possesses hard durable wood (100 N / mm 2), with straight fine layers. Volumetric weight - 0.66 t / m 3. It is applied for

manufacture of keels, stems and other parts of the longitudinal and transverse set.

Siberian cedar- light (volumetric weight 0.44 t / m 3), sufficiently strong (90 n / mm 2), dense wood species, well processed. It is used for the manufacture of plating and kit parts.

Oak- very strong (110 N / mm 2) and hard wood, not only well preserved in water, but not losing its elasticity in it. It is an indispensable material for the manufacture of stems, keel, zygomatic stringers, the most loaded frames, although oak processing is relatively laborious. Volumetric weight - 0.72 t / m 3. In contrast to conifers, the wider the annual layers, the higher the strength of the oak.

Ash- has hardness and elasticity, is well processed. Volumetric weight - 0.66 t / m 3. Fastening material holds well in ash. It is mainly used for bent parts of the set.

In addition to the listed types of wood, the following are used in limited quantities: fir - for the manufacture of parts of a set of lesser strength and durability in variable humidity conditions; teak - for the manufacture of sheathing and flooring of decks; chestnut - for the manufacture of trim parts, beech - for the manufacture of furniture and interior decoration; birch - for the manufacture of plywood or veneer.

Of the mahogany species in shipbuilding, the most commonly used mahogany... This wood has a beautiful brownish-red or brownish texture, dense, hard and heavy (bulk density 0.54-0.75 t / m 3). Differs in low moisture absorption, high resistance to decay, little warps and very rarely cracks. This breed is widely used for cladding, bulkheads and interiors of high-class ships.

Honduran cedar has a reddish soft wood with a bulk density of 0.5-0.65 t / m 3, is easily processed. It is used for cladding racing boats and yachts, finishing the interior of ships.

Humidity- the moisture content in wood as a percentage of its weight determines not only the main technological properties of wood, but also the shape stability of finished structures and their strength.

Air-dried wood has a moisture content of about 15%.

This average value fluctuates depending on the season, humidity and air temperature. When building ships, wood with a moisture content of 12 to 18% is used. The use of a drier material leads to the fact that when the wood swells in the finished structure, its linear dimensions increase, large loads appear, as a result of which the destruction of the bearing ties, fasteners and the loss of the density of the joints are possible. On the other hand, the processing of wood blanks with a moisture content of more than 20% is difficult, and the adhesive joints are fragile.

If the part is made of raw wood, then during drying the dimensions of its cross-section change greatly (Fig. 3.1, a). In the radial direction (from the core of the trunk outward) - the section size decreases by 1.5-1.7%, and in the tangential direction (along the tangent lines to the annual rings) - up to 2.6-2.8%.

Shrinkage along the grain is only 0.1-0.15% so that it can be ignored. In the same percentage, there is an increase in the size of the workpieces when they swell.

In modern shipbuilding, shrinkage and swelling are fought by isolating wood from moisture penetration into it. In its most modern form, this is observed in plywood. Plywood accepts extremely little water, because wood cells, reduced by the method of shrinkage to 6-8%, thanks to modern insulation, almost do not absorb moisture.

The moisture content of wood is measured quite accurately by weighing samples in drying chambers on an accurate balance set to zero or hygrometers based on measuring electrical resistance.

Since the shrinkage of lumber in different directions is not the same, it is accompanied by warping- loss of flat shape, and sometimes cracking. The warping occurs to the greatest extent in lumber cut from the sapwood part of the log - closer to the bark.

In shipbuilding, radial sawing boards are used with tree rings arranged perpendicular to the board face, or tangential sawing boards with annual rings inclined at an angle of no more than 30 o to the edge of the board (Figure 3.1, b). For glued (laminated) parts, it is allowed to use strips with an inclination of the annual rings to the edge up to 45 o, because by appropriately positioning the rails inside the part, it is possible to compensate for the increased deformation of such rails (Figure 3.1, c).

Figure 3.1. Dependence of shrinkage of wood blanks on the method of sawing a log (a);
permissible arrangement of annual rings in sheathing boards (b) and strips for laminated
bathroom structures (c). The shrinkage percentages shown in the figure refer to the drying of wood.
in air from 15% humidity to 6%

Durability, strength and density timber are important factors in the construction of ships. Durability classes have been established based on the results of studies by various institutes. In Central European conditions, wood species are evaluated by

the duration of its service in years for non-preserved wood when it comes into contact with the ground. The duration of use of preserved wood is, of course, significantly longer and easily increases if stored in water for only one season. The strength of wood, depending on its species and the application of the load, is different. Wood has the highest strength when it is loaded along the grain. When compressed along the fibers, the sample collapses already under the action of about half of the stresses achieved when it breaks from tension. When stretched across the grain, 1/16 of the tensile strength along the grain. In the case of compression across the fibers, the sample is destroyed at stresses from 10 to 20% of the tensile stresses when stretched along the fibers. These stresses are also the basis for calculating the breaking stresses in bending.

The density of wood is correlated with the strength and, in some way, also with the durability of the parts made from it. The stronger and more durable the wood, the, unfortunately, the heavier it is. Therefore, parts that are less affected by weather conditions and heavy loads are made from lighter wood.

Wood does not have a homogeneous structure and often includes various kinds vices that reduce the strength of the material: knots, cracks, slanting, curliness, etc. The best quality wood must be selected for the parts of the kit and the cladding.

Knots, especially falling out and rotten ones, during the procurement of parts should be disposed of in waste. As a last resort, a knot can be drilled out and glued in with a healthy wood insert. If such a board goes to the sheathing or to the deck flooring, then an overlay is placed on the inside of the embedment site. Loose and tobacco knots, which are residues in the trunk of branches affected by rot, are unacceptable.

For the parts of the set, slats, beams and boards with oblique- deflection of fibers from a straight direction parallel to the edge

laths by more than 8-10% (8-10 mm per meter of workpiece length). The oblique layer significantly reduces the strength of the parts and, during the operation of the ship, leads to their cracking. In a limited number, skew battens can be used in laminated parts.

As a material of organic origin, wood is susceptible to fungal diseases, especially with poor protection of parts. In this case, the decay process quickly spreads throughout the structure of the hull. In the first initial stage of decay, the wood changes its color without destroying the cells and reducing the strength of the fibers. Putrid stains at the initial stage of decay should be removed by planing to sound wood. Wood that has a second stage of decay is discarded.

Modern wooden shipbuilding cannot be imagined without the widespread use of plywood. By gluing several veneer layers along and across the grain, approximately the same plywood strength is achieved in both directions.

According to the production technology, plywood can be rolled or knife, depending on the method of cutting the tree trunk. For rolled plywood, the workpiece is unrolled by spiral unwinding. For knife plywood, the workpiece is unfolded with a knife located tangentially to the base. Blade plywood is more expensive to manufacture and more valuable because of its beautiful texture and smooth surface requiring less processing and sanding.

Plywood for the construction of ship hulls should be made of high quality wood without knots and other defects, veneer strips in the inner layers should be tightly fitted and glued to each other. The veneer layers must be glued with synthetic resin adhesives, the resistance of which against water and weather conditions must be verified by appropriate tests.

Formaldehyde-based adhesives are usually used.

The following plywood grades are used in the domestic shipbuilding industry: bakelized plywood is the most durable and waterproof. It is produced in grades BFS and BFV with a thickness of 5-12 mm, sheets from 1.5 to 5 m in length. The surface of bakelized plywood is coated with a layer of resin and looks like varnished. It can be used to sheathe ships with both sharp-chinned and round-chipped contours, having previously spread a sheet of plywood into strips of the required width. Bakelized plywood has a large bulk density up to 1.2 t / m 3 and sinks in water.

BFS plywood is manufactured using alcohol-soluble resins; for BFV-1, the middle layers are water-soluble resins, and the shirts are impregnated with alcohol-soluble resins; BFV-2 is manufactured entirely on water-soluble resins;

– aviation birch five-layer plywood BS-1, BP-1, BPS-1 has high strength and water resistance. It is lighter than bakelized. The layers of this plywood are glued with bakelite film and C1 resin. Manufactured in sheets with a thickness of 3 to 12 mm .;

- for hulls of small motor boats and lifeboats, provided that they are thoroughly covered with the protection of the hull, it can be used construction plywood FSKili FC.

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Wooden ships, yachts, boats are intended for recreation, fishing and hunting in inland waters.

The boats can be equipped with an outboard motor and sail rig. Classic sea boats designed for boating practice, tourism and water recreation. Large seaworthy sailing and rowing boats designed for large tourist trips. An example of such boats is the project boat "Askold - 19"

The main material used for wooden shipbuilding is coniferous and deciduous wood. From conifers, shipbuilding pine is mainly used, from deciduous - oak.

Wood as a material for shipbuilding has a number of advantages: low weight with relatively high strength; easy workability with simple tools, the ability to easily and reliably connect into units and structures using screws, bolts and other fasteners, as well as by gluing; good heat and sound insulation qualities; the ability to resist the effects of salts and acids. In addition, the wood is well painted and varnished, and after the appropriate finishing it acquires a beautiful appearance. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, which is especially valuable in our time.

A number of disadvantages inherent in wood are now easily remedied. So, a heterogeneous structure, due to which the strength in different directions is not the same, is eliminated when using laminated structures, and the durability can be increased by using modern impregnations and paints and varnishes.

Classic wooden ships:

motor sailing yachts
motor boats
sea boats
pleasure boats
replicas of historic ships
models for movies

In the X-XI centuries, colossal distances were covered by ships. In those days, shipbuilding was just beginning to develop, and ships covered distances with oars and only sometimes sails were used to accelerate their speed. But after a while, fully sailing ships appeared. Over the course of several centuries, they quickly quickly switched from oars to sails, and also equipped ships with weapons and navigation devices. Despite all the progress, ships were built from wood for quite a long time, but no specific information was specified.

What tree were the ships made of?

For the construction of ships, many types of wood were used, since the ships were divided into several types, the trees were chosen for their strength and durability.

During the construction, several types of trees were used in one ship, and warships were strengthened with several species of trees, and also the inner and outer parts of the ship were carefully processed. Also, the choice of wood depended on the continent on which the ship was built.

Russian ships were mainly built from oak, larch, pine, and other trees were used for small ships that were not designed for long voyages. But such species as ash, acacia, spruce and others were used only for cabins, doors and other details. Oak, larch and pine were grown in specially designated areas. The felling of trees was carried out strictly for the construction of the ship, and for other needs it was forbidden to fell trees. Pine has been used the most, as it comes in many varieties. Each type of pine has certain properties and is used for the construction of holds, ceilings and inner cladding, such ships are distinguished by their durability.

What tree were the ships made of?

The correct choice of wood affected the total mass of the ship, the strength of the sides, controllability and durability. After all, if at least one infected tree was caught in the total, then the ship in some cases even could not be repaired. Therefore, each tree was carefully examined and processed, and the territories in which they grew were monitored whenever possible, and the growing infected trees were cut down and taken out of the territory. But even when ships began to be made of steel, only valuable species were chosen for the interior of the ship.

For creating sailboat models there are many ready-made kits with ready-made drawings and instructions.

They are aimed at both experienced modelers and novice amateurs who are interested in creating something extraordinary with their own hands. Of course, the process in this case is faster and easier - accordingly, it arouses less interest among craftsmen than creating a ship on their own and according to their individual drawings.
Sailboats are especially interesting and attractive for ship modelers, therefore, when creating your own unique drawing, it is necessary to have a good idea of the finished model of the ship, to study the internal structure of the originals.

Preparatory work when creating a drawing

It should be remembered that all sailboat models, as a rule, have at least two masts with oblique sails, and the ship's hull consists of a mast (a kind of wooden frame, consisting of a mast and a yard) and rigging (ropes for various purposes).
Before starting to build a blueprint, stock up on various pictures and information about the history of this model, structural features and outstanding battles in which such ships participated. Make sure in advance that you have all the necessary tools - rulers, magnifiers, measuring transports, corners, etc. Decide on the scale of the drawing, calculate the size and location on paper of all the necessary elements of the sailboat model.

Nuances of drawing up a model drawing

Drawing sailboat models is done in three projections: diametrical, main and midships, in which the basic outlines of the model are set. The diametral plane conventionally divides the ship into left and right parts. The baseline is the horizontal plane tangent to the lowest point on the hull of the ship (keel line). The midship, or midship frame, is a transverse vertical plane that runs in the middle of the ship's length.
In addition, the drawing draws the lines of intersection of the deck and side, keel and pins, deck, as well as the lines of the rudder, fins and transom. In the drawings, as a rule, only half of the vessel is depicted, that is, one side, and the hull of the vessel must be absolutely symmetrical to the center plane. On the drawing sheet the ship is usually placed in the following order: in the upper part - "side", in the lower part - "half-latitude", and on the right - "hull" (on the same level with the "side").

The element of water at all times attracted desperate travelers, brave sailors and fearless pirates. Sailing on the waves and watching new horizons open up in front of you, this is the most amazing thing that can be in life. Wooden Kit for building a ship model from wood is a documentation and a set of materials.

It is assumed that this is enough for self-construction of exactly the model shown on the box. The documentation describes in detail the appearance and process of building the model and includes general drawings, diagrams for the manufacture of parts and assemblies. In addition to high manufacturability, it should be noted the high quality of materials in all Artesania Latina sets.

Compared to Artesania, Constructo sets have a poorer range of valuable wood species, although the quantity and quality are more than sufficient. There are also a lot of relatively small models in the catalog, which are well suited both for construction and for exhibiting in our small apartments. Confusion and errors in the documentation, inconsistencies in the metal parts of the stern, sometimes the wrong selection of wood for the parts.

Ready-made sails in a set are useless, you either have to spit on the sails altogether, or make a cut yourself. When building, you have to deviate from the proposed technology and drawings for an acceptable appearance of the model. The gorgeous bow and stern decor are reproduced on the cast model and look great, although the assembly of the stern balconies and galleries is tricky.

An overcomplicated double cladding is conceived, and the finished cladded body is proposed to be painted, hiding all the beauty of the tree. The full impression that the development was carried out at one time by a part of the specialists who broke away from Mamoli. The quality of the documentation is very high, the construction technology is almost the same, that is, there is a lot of overcomplication unnecessarily.

The company has incorporated two fairly well-known manufacturers, thanks to which it has a very extensive catalog of a wide variety of sets. In general, in the Amati catalog, tools and accessories are given more space than sets for building models. It is simply impossible to list absolutely all manufacturers of kits for building ship models.

It should also be noted that cheap sets under 75 euros do not put anything at the disposal of the modeler! After receiving it, I couldn't wait to sit down at the table, open the box, lay out the parts, read the instructions, and finally get to work! Of course, this hobby is not very cheap, but if you consider that the manufacture of one ship takes from several months to a year or even more, then, in the end, it is not so expensive. This is, first of all, an opportunity for self-expression, a way to realize your talents and, at the same time, to be distracted and indulge in dreams. Desktop wooden ships have excellent decorative qualities, it is impossible not to admire them.

But, the result of painstaking work is the assembled model, which will become a well-deserved object of your pride. This fishing schooner has become famous after numerous victories in classic races. This American merchant ship, which was renowned for its speed characteristics, was converted into a battleship, and then used as a coast guard ship during the American Revolution and the War of 1812.

This is a kit of a universal series from Constructo, quite easy to assemble and recommended for novice modelers. Albatros is a model of a sailing ship built in 1899 on the stocks of Holland, also known as the Clipper of the North Sea, one of the oldest sailing ships still sailing, one of the main advantages of which is the ability to stay at sea in extremely adverse weather conditions.

Bremen Krabben Kutter, a small shrimp fishing vessel built in 1953 at a small shipyard in Germany.

Bounty Jolly, from the notorious historic ship HMS Bounty, famous for the feat of the people who covered a distance of 3,600 miles on three small ships across the ocean. Large-scale replica of the Bremen Krabben Kutter shrimp fishing vessel, a small vessel built in 1953 in a small shipyard in Germany. This ship is famous for the fact that in 1620, from England to America, 102 pilgrims made 67 days of sea voyage on it, where they founded a colony.

Bench model of the ship Enterprise, which was built in Maryland, USA in 1799 and took part in the siege of Tripoli in 1801. An English ship with a group of scientists on board began a sea voyage to the shores of the island of Tahiti, where the researchers intended to observe the moment of the passage of the planet Venus across the disk of the Sun. San Mateo, 800 ton Spanish ship of the 16th century, during the reign of Philip II during the Indian Companies.

Wooden model of the Cutty Sark clipper, a copy of the most famous Cutty Sark clipper, launched on November 23, 1869 on the Clyde River in the Scottish town of Dumbarton. Model of the barque Latina Gorch Fock, a replica of a German three-masted ship built as a school ship in 1933 for the Reichsmarine, a German nautical school. Model of the sailing ship Latina Sagres, a replica of the three-masted sailing ship of the Portuguese Navigation School, launched on October 30, 1937 in Hamburg, Germany and serving to train cadets.

Model of a sailing ship, a copy of a 168 ton ship launched on May 13, 1787, which was part of two fleets sent from Plymouth, England and participating in the colonization of Australia. In fact, such a pleasure is worth a lot, an acquaintance collects ships and I know how much money he spends. The information that you share is very valuable and useful, I think it's worth trying to make such a boat yourself.

It is interesting:

How to make a boat out of wood with your own hands?

Probably, many looked at the magnificent wooden sailboats in the shop windows or in the apartments of friends. But most people give up this thought only after realizing the complexity of this endeavor. If you need it in order to run it on a river or lake, strength and driving performance will become important, and some decoration details in this case are useless.

If your goal is to learn how to make a boat out of wood, which will become an interior decoration, then you should be more thorough in thinking about its appearance. Often, enthusiasts even restore in detail ships, sailing ships and schooners that existed in reality and have become almost legendary. Or, you can place several of these elements on each mast, which gives the impression of a large vessel.

Each part should be divided into three parts, glue toothpicks and secured, shaped into sails. Here you can be creative, for example, how to make a boat out of sweets by gluing them along the edges of the blank. Only in order to get a really beautiful product, you should use thick cardboard from which the body is glued.

is it possible to install a wall-hung toilet if there is no niche.

How to make a spaceship out of paper with your own hands.

Francis Drake performed quite a few dizzying deeds on it, which were later told in history and adventure books. It is such wonderful ships that make many people collect models of ships from wood with their own hands. After he has developed enough, then he can have a mass production of models.

The next step will be the development of stand exhibition modeling from those sets that he already has. Let's take a standard design as an example for our small ship models, which we will build according to the principle below. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, then it will be quite difficult to fix everything.

Remove the shavings layer by layer, while doing your best to process the original block as smoothly as possible. Therefore, drill a number of holes, they should be slightly larger in size than the beams themselves. Let's take as a condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last.

the subtleties of installing metal doors.

A boat from a plastic bottle Home master

But in order to start performing complex models, you need to practice on the lighter ones. To create stucco patterns on board the ship, you need to prepare your own composition, from which you can form reliefs. Also, wood can be used to create the main elements of the model, such as the deck, hull.

Fasteners will perform not only the main task of fastening parts, but also perform a decorative role. Fine detailing can be made by metal casting, use polymer clay, or independently prepare a solution from wood dust and PVA glue. If this is the first time a plywood ship is being modeled, it is recommended to purchase kits in which all the details have already been cut and processed.

Therefore, with a great desire and diligence, experience can be gained in the process of assembling your ship. To begin with, it is worth looking at the various drawings and finished works, this will greatly facilitate the choice of the model. After examining the entire drawing, it is worth checking the availability of all the necessary materials and tools to complete the work.

In order to make all the parts, cut them out of the plywood sheet, you must use the appropriate tool. You can use a hand jigsaw for work, but if possible, it is better to use an electric model option. It is worth cutting out all the details very carefully, while observing all the contour boundaries, since inaccurately cut details can then spoil the appearance of the entire ship.

This will allow you to do assembly work without being distracted by cutting out missing parts. Prepared frames are put on the keel, the longitudinal beam that goes through the entire length of the ship. For a more reliable connection, it is best to use a special type of adhesive that is made specifically for modeling.

The next stage of work can be started only after all joints are completely dry and securely held. In order for the plywood elements to be much easier to bend and give them the required shape, it is worth moistening and heating the material a little. After the skin of the ship has dried, the next stage of modeling begins, namely the decorative finish.

installation of fakro roof windows.

Crafts from money with your own hands. Manigami Origami from money

It may not be so easy for an inexperienced modeler to make a model of a ship that looks like a real one, but it is very interesting and very develops imagination. We cut out the hull from the foam with a cutter or knife, starting at the same time from the deck, and then gradually sharpening it towards the bow of the ship. In order to prevent the cardboard from getting soaked in contact with water, you need to glue it in one layer with adhesive tape over the entire surface.

Attach the yards to the mast with wire, attach the sails with threads to the masts, making punctures at the corners of the sail with a thick needle, threading the thread and tying it on the yards. To do this, cut out a couple of small pieces of cardboard and attach them symmetrically to the base of the foam at the stern so that they are submerged in the water. The fact is that the ready-made set contains only drawings and a number of blanks for masts, and metal parts that still need to be processed, strips, ropes and a number of small parts.

The assembly of the ship model is carried out in the same sequence as its construction at the shipyard. In this case, the outer layer consists of very thin strips, it must be handled with extreme caution and care. The difficulty of making a cardboard model is that you will not find ready-made kits on sale, all parts, without exception, will have to be made by yourself.

workbench yourself.

Tags: how to make a ship out of wood with your own hands

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The ship model can decorate any interior. She brings an element of romance into the room, a dream of long journeys and adventures. It can be a purchased souvenir, someone's gift, but the model is more interesting - made by your own hands or by the hands of your loved ones.

This boat was made by my dad, at the request of my boys, when he was our guest. He did not have any tools or materials at hand, so he made the boat “from what was,” right in the kitchen. I saw that it was interesting and asked my dad to describe the construction process for my site with intermediate photos. When the boat was already finished, I was afraid to give it to the children (let them forgive me) and put it on the shelf for beauty.

Here is a description of how to build a boat.

Required materials and tools:

2 packs of bamboo kebab sticks (buy at a hardware store or grocery store),
Super glue,
threads,
plain fabric,
pencil,
a shoe knife or a large clerical knife.

The process of making a boat

Step 1. We make the bottom

First, we make the bottom. A real ship usually has a rounded or pointed bottom, and a sailboat must have a keel. You can make such a bottom, but then the boat will not stand on the table and it needs a stand, so we make a flat bottom. To do this, prepare 2 long side sticks of 16 cm, 2 short nasal sticks of 5 cm and 1 feed stick 4 cm long. We lay them out on the table in the form of a bottom pentagon so that the edges overlap each other. With a pencil we mark the joints of our sticks, so that you can make oblique joints "in a half-tree". With a knife we cut off the corresponding lower and upper parts of the ends of adjacent sticks. Excessively protruding edges of the sticks (due to the fact that the corners are not straight) carefully cut off with a knife. We take superglue and glue the bottom frame. We make sure that the resulting frame is strictly symmetrical.

After that, fill the resulting frame with other sticks. We start from the center. We cut out the stick slightly longer than the distance from the bow to the stern, then sharpen its bow and cut the stern so that the stick goes inside our frame. But we leave the upper parts of the slices a little longer so that the stick does not fall into the frame, but hangs on the edges. Lubricate the edges with glue and glue them into the frame. Similarly, we cut out neighboring sticks, decreasing in size, and also glue them into the frame. It is somewhat more difficult to cut out the extreme sticks when the decrease occurs from both sides, but the principle is the same. Thus, we have a kind of wooden raft - the bottom of our boat.

Step 2. Take on the boards

We cut out and glue 3 transverse strips of the bottom along the entire length to give strength to our structure. Next, we cut out, in place, new sticks for the construction of the sides, but we make them a little longer so that the hull of the ship expands upward. And we glue them on the bottom row with a slight offset from the center. We place the joints of the sticks in the overlap of the previous row, like a well.

After 8 rows, we form the bow and stern from the same sticks, but already of a shorter length. You can put sticks cut off obliquely into the nose.

Step 3. Putting the masts

We make masts. The middle mast (mainsail) is the longest. Made from a whole stick. Attaches to the bottom as shown in the photo. Correctly offset to the stern.

The front (fore) and back (mizzen) shorter are attached in the same way. Inclined (bowsprit) is glued to the bow and bottom.

Step 4. Making the deck.

Under the second stick from the top of the board, glue the support strips on which the deck will lie. You can use the same bamboo sticks, or you can use toothpicks or matches. We cut the transverse sticks for the deck and glue them onto the support rails. You can cover the entire deck, or you can partially cover it, as in the photo, so that you have access to the hold. Cut grooves on the deck rails near the masts so that the masts go through, and glue these places. At the stern, we direct beauty, like a railing. We cut 5 mm barrels from scraps of sticks, glue them lying along the edge of the stern, and on top we glue another row of sticks of the same length that were already at the stern.

Step 5. Cut and fasten the yards

We mark the masts for sails. We retreat from the top and bottom of each mast by 2 cm. We make transverse grooves under the yard with a knife. Divide the distance between them into 3 parts and cut out 2 more transverse grooves for the rest of the yards. Cut out yards, 4 for each mast. The lower one is 1 cm on each edge more than the width of the deck at the location of the mast, the upper one is equal to the width of the deck, and the middle ones have an average size, proportionally decreasing. We glue them into the corresponding grooves on the masts.

Step 6. Tension the sails

We make the sails from a suitable fabric. We cut trapezoidal shreds, along the width of the rails and in height, the distance between the yards is 5-10 mm more. We glue the sails directly to the yards with a height allowance to simulate slight inflation. We take a thick thread (or thin in 3 layers) and pull the rope from the bowsprit to the stern, winding it along the road around all the masts. Cut out the oblique bow sail and glue it to the rope and bowsprit (2-3 smaller sails are possible). We cut out triangular flags from other fabric and glue them on the masts. The ship is ready.

If you want the boat to float, its hull must be painted with thick varnish or paint to seal all the cracks. Perhaps 2-3 layers. For better stability, ballast, such as a lead plate, can be placed in the hold.

Wooden toy sailboat - our homemade original, albeit a toy, for children, but a do-it-yourself bamboo boat with a sail, which you see in the picture below, is ideal for long voyages.

Therefore, the mouse family happily travels along the lake on a sunny summer day, dipping their tails into the water for cooling.

Mice swim on the lake. But safety comes first! That is why they have such a wonderful stable boat with a sail that cannot turn over in any way, even in very strong winds.

How to make a children's toy sailboat with your own hands?

Of course, you can buy a toy like a sailboat. I do not argue. There are interesting ready-made models. But DIY will be much more interesting! Do you agree? Especially if the child will make it together with adults.

Let's start in order. We will step by step consider all the steps that we need to take. Each has a schematic picture with a serial number. If something remains unclear from the description, then look at the diagram - after that there will be no questions left!

If you decide to make such a floating device for small toy-mice, then pay attention to the list of necessary tools and materials. So, first, let's see what we need to make such a children's toy.

Making a simple boat with a sail. Materials (edit)

1 thick bamboo stick
1 thin tube of bamboo (will need to be divided into shorter and longer sections)
Pieces of wood (for nose and other auxiliary parts)
Bending twig
1 wine stopper
White cloth (approximately 20 x 30 centimeters)
Fabric (silk) dyes
Needle with a large eye
Thin cord
Nails (screws)
Hammer
Jigsaw
Scissors
Chisel and hammer for wood
Drill

Description and order of work:

Cut a piece from a thick bamboo stick with a hacksaw or a jigsaw, so that partitions are preserved on both sides (remember, the bamboo trunk is hollow inside, nodes are visible from above - these are places where there is a solid partition inside). After that, divide the resulting tube-cylinder along the middle.
Attach a pair of twigs of the same size with a string to the boat in two places - approximately in the middle of the front and rear parts (if you mentally divide the "trough"). Then pieces of wood (planks, you can also use several interconnected twigs) to tie these twigs.
Prepare a triangular piece of wood. This will be the front of the sailboat - the bow. Let's fix it on one of the ends of the boat, which will become the bow. To do this, you need one screw, this will be the most reliable mounting option. You can, if you wish, in principle, and glue. We install the mast (the long part of a thin bamboo branch divided in two by us) - using a small rectangular plank and a cork, see as shown in the detailed diagram.
There are many ways to prepare sail fabric. For example, first fold it as you can see in the figure, and then dip different parts one by one into a container with paint. Or put it on polyethylene (so as not to stain the table) and paint it by hand. Then dry until completely dry. Finally, fix the paints by ironing them with a hot iron.
The sail is attached on one side (you can stick it or better sew it on) on a thin bamboo stalk (the one that is short. Remember, we divided them into two parts unequal in length?). At the corners of the other side of the sail, laces are attached, as shown in the picture below.
Fasten the mast with a needle with a large eyelet and fasten the cord in the middle at the front of the sailboat. Glue the plug with glue. The mast is secured with ropes at the bow of the stern for stability.

Our boat is ready. You can go on a long voyage.

I want to note that when making a children's sailboat, you are not limited by anything, except for your own imagination. If you don't have bamboo at hand, make a base out of ordinary wood varieties. I must say that of all the "floating craft", the catamaran has the most stable design.

Here's what can happen (there are a lot of options!). Without a sail, you just get a boat. Whichever one comes out for you, I think that it will greatly delight your baby. After all, all children love to fiddle in the water in the summer. And here is such a beautiful, and even an educational toy!

It will be especially great if the child also takes an active part in the work on the creation of the boat.

Materials for work

If you want to make a small ship model, then you will need the following materials:

Wood - cedar, linden, walnut, or other wood, preferably soft and not fibrous... Wood blanks must be even, free of knots and damage. Wood can be used both as a material for the main elements of the model (hull, deck) and for fine detailing.
Plywood is perhaps the most demanded material... For ship modeling, either balsa or birch is used, since it is these types of wood that provide the minimum amount of chips when sawing. Model ship plywood is typically 0.8 to 2 mm thick.

Note! Beech veneer sheets of small thickness are sometimes used as an alternative to birch: although they are inferior in strength, they bend much more easily.

Veneer - thin plates of natural wood of expensive species... As a rule, it is used for veneering, i.e. pasting a surface from an inexpensive material.
Fasteners - fine chains, laces, threads, brass and copper studs.

In addition, we will definitely need wood glue, cardboard and tracing paper for transferring templates, etc. Fine detailing is made from metal casting. As an alternative to metal, you can use colored polymer clay.

Making a souvenir boat

Preparation for work

Any work begins with preparation, and modeling will by no means be an exception.

First you need to decide what we will build. If you have not previously dealt with the art of ship modeling, then we recommend downloading the drawings of the ship from plywood on the network: as a rule, they contain all the necessary information and are understandable even for a beginner.

Note! Kits are available for sale that allow you to assemble a boat from ready-made parts. Beginners will be interested in such kits (although the price of most of them is very significant), but it is better to master the technology from scratch.

After analyzing the drawing, we check if everything you need is in stock. In principle, if something is missing, you can buy it a little later, because building a ship (albeit a miniature one) is not a quick business!

Having printed the drawing, we make templates for the main parts.
Transfer templates to.

Cutting and assembling parts

You can cut the workpieces both with the help of a manual and with the help of an electric model jigsaw.

The latter is more expensive, but with it you will suffer less when cutting out small parts:

We make a starting hole in the plywood sheet, into which we insert a file or jigsaw blade.
We cut out the part, trying to move exactly along the marked contour.
We process the sawn-off workpiece with a file, removing small chamfers at the edges and removing inevitable chips and burrs.

Advice! Working on one element (deck, sides, keel, etc.), we immediately cut out all the parts necessary for assembly. This way we will spend significantly less time, and the work will progress faster.

When everything is ready, we start assembling our ship.

First, we put on the transverse frames on the longitudinal beam - the keel. A groove is usually provided at the bottom of each frame for attaching to a plywood keel.
For connection, you can use standard glue, or you can use special glue mixtures intended for ship modeling.
We attach the upper parts of the frames to the deck. For simple models, the deck is one sheet of plywood, while for complex models it can be multi-level.
After the glue on the frames has dried, we begin to sheathe the sides with thin strips of plywood. The thickness of the material should be no more than 1.5 mm, since only in this case will we be able to bend the skin without the risk of damaging it.
Can be heated and humidified for bending. After that, the material will bend without difficulty, and over time it will acquire a stable shape.

Note! The body for painting can be pasted over with a solid sheet. But to imitate plank sheathing, it is better to use strips up to 10 mm wide (depending on the scale).

We fix the glued plywood with clamps and clamps and leave to dry.

Final finishing

By and large, this is where the carpentry skill ends, and the art begins.

When the body is assembled and dried, we need:

Fabricate from thin plywood and secure deck superstructures.

Build up the sides so that they protrude above the deck plane.
Paste the surface of the deck with a wooden veneer or draw out with an awl, imitating boarding.
Make and install all the small parts like the steering wheel and steering blade.
Fasten the masts with all additional devices (the so-called spars), set the sails and stretch this entire structure with the help of the rigging threads.

Finally, all plywood parts need to be stained and varnished. This will provide our souvenir with at least a couple of decades of preservation.

Output

Almost everyone can make a simple boat out of plywood with their own hands - enough patience and minimal skills in working with a jigsaw (read also the article). But if you want to implement a complex drawing with many small details, then you will have to work hard. This is why we advise you to start with the simplest models, gradually building up your skill!

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic.

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