Radish is one of the first vegetable crops, delighting gardeners with its juicy, healthy roots. Many are looking forward to her harvest - their vitamins from the garden are qualitatively different from the greenhouse vegetables that are sold in stores. But often our expectations are not met because of a harmful insect, a booger, which, despite its smallness, can destroy all our radish hopes in a matter of days.
Cruciferous Flea: Pest Portrait
The cruciferous flea is small - the body length is no more than 3 mm - a flying bug with an oval-oblong body and long antennae. There are several varieties of these insects: wavy, light-legged, notched, black, blue, etc. First of all, they differ in the color of the elytra, which can be black, have a metallic sheen or longitudinal yellow stripes.
The pest belongs to leaf beetles - it damages the leaves by scraping off the upper layer of the leaf plate, gnawing ulcers-depressions in it, and young greens can gnaw through. Insect larvae feed on thin plant roots. They are the most dangerous pests of all cruciferous crops and are widespread throughout the European part of our country, except for the Far North.
The bugs are most active in the period from 10 to 13 hours of the day, as well as in the afternoon - from 16 to 18 hours.
In winter, adults of the pest spend in plant debris, in the upper soil layer, and can settle in the crevices of greenhouses and greenhouses. In early spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the flea emerges from its shelters and begins to actively feed. Then the females lay eggs, the larvae of the pest settle in the ground for 2–3 weeks, then pupate and after 1–2 weeks the plants are attacked again by the young beetles.
During the season, the cruciferous flea can give from one to three generations.
Photo gallery: varieties of the cruciferous flea
It is very easy to understand that a cruciferous flea has appeared on the radish: all the leaves of the plant are riddled, and small, shiny bugs are jumping between them
The danger of the pest lies in the fact that in a short period of time it is able to completely destroy young seedlings. Radish sprouts appear early, it is the first to take on the attack of the aggressor, because just at the time of the emergence of the culture seedlings, cruciferous fleas are activated after the winter period. The massive spread of the pest is dangerous not only for young seedlings, but also for adult plants: beetles will eat the leaves and the upper layer of the skin on the stems, and the larvae will damage the roots of the plant.
The flea is happy to attack even coarse radish testes: it damages the buds, gnaws holes and pits in the pods.
How to get rid of cruciferous fleas on radishes
First of all, prophylactic and deterrent methods are used, and only in case of emergency are chemicals used.
Preventive measures to protect against pests
It is necessary to protect radish plantings from cruciferous fleas in advance, without waiting for the appearance of the pest. Here is a list of preventive measures that will help the gardener prevent a small aggressor from entering the beds:
- plant the radishes next to coriander, garlic or dill before winter. The smell of these plants scares off the cruciferous flea. If you are planting radishes at the end of summer, then plant them next to marigolds, nasturtium or calendula. Repellent plants release substances into the air that leaf beetles cannot tolerate;
- add strongly smelling agents to the water for irrigation: carvalol, valerian tincture, fir oil (10-15 drops per bucket of water). The flea does not like strong smells;
- lay out freshly harvested wormwood in the garden;
- a garden bed with radishes can be mulched with branches of tansy, broken off stepchildren of tomatoes;
- remove weeds regularly;
- carry out the obligatory autumn digging of the garden. The bugs remaining in the soil for the winter will be close to the surface and will die during a cold snap;
- provide plants with enough nutrients to grow strong, strong. Well-developed bushes are less attractive to the pest than weakened or small ones;
- sow the radishes as early as possible while the pest is still hibernating.
Compliance with agrotechnical measures when growing radishes is one of the conditions for protecting it from pests
Some gardeners advise you to specially plant cruciferous weeds around the perimeter of the area occupied by radishes. This measure allegedly distracts the pest from cultural plantings. Such a step must be recognized as extremely risky - after all, you cannot explain to a cruciferous flea which plants are intended for it, and which the owner grows for his own consumption.
Folk remedies for scaring and removing cruciferous flea beetles
Many gardeners deliberately refuse to use chemical means of protecting radishes from pests and diseases, and at the same time achieve positive results. The proposed recipes are suitable primarily for those who can devote a lot of time to their garden and carry out the indicated treatments not once, but systematically, evaluating the results and changing, if necessary, the compositions and methods used. Here are the simplest and most common folk remedies for combating the cruciferous flea.
Growing in a humid environment
The pest loves dry and hot weather, and does not tolerate dampness. Therefore, it is recommended to choose the most humid parts of the garden for sowing radishes, as well as water the seedlings abundantly.
You can add a few drops of a substance with a strong smell to the water for irrigating radishes, for example, tincture of valerian or fir oil
Dry pollination of plantings with various mixtures
Experienced gardeners claim that the cruciferous pest does not like to eat dirty leaves. Therefore, the most common method of scaring off a flea is planting pollination. For this procedure, you can use a mixture of different compositions:
- ash + tobacco dust;
- ash + fluff lime;
- ash + road dust.
All components are taken in equal proportions. Pollination is effective if carried out in the early morning, when dew is present on the leaves, or after watering the plants. In order for the powder to lay down in a thin and even layer, it is poured into a gauze bag and gently shaken over the leaves.
If dusting is carried out after moistening the beds, then particles of ash and dust adhere to the leaves for a long time
No special protective effect can be expected from a single pollination. It can only protect radish plantings qualitatively if it is carried out regularly, after each rain or watering. Another prerequisite for efficiency is careful processing when dusting not only the upper, but also the lower part of the sheet plate.
Covering radish seedlings with non-woven fabric
For this purpose, spunbond, lutrasil, etc. are perfect, which transmit light, air and moisture well, but do not allow flea beetles to get to young plants. And if the bed in front of the shelter is powdered with ash, you get the effect of double protection. When the seedlings grow up, their leaves will coarsen and will not be so attractive to the pest, the shelter can be removed.
Lightweight and durable canvas reliably protects not only from cold and weeds, but also from numerous pests
Pest traps
Catching a cruciferous flea can be done with a sticky flag. They do it as follows:
- Take a piece of cloth and attach it to a stick.
- Then cover the fabric with any adhesive (eg grease).
- They walk along the garden bed, lightly touching the radish leaves with a cloth.
- Since disturbed insects usually jump or fly away from danger, they will definitely fall on the sticky layer.
Flea fishing is best done in the middle of the day in hot and dry weather. You have to go over the bed several times at short intervals.
Catching with an impromptu sticky flag significantly reduces the number of cruciferous flea beetles in the radish bed.
Flea traps can also be made using waste machine oil. In this product, a cloth is moistened and laid out on cardboard or board scraps every 3-4 m near a garden bed with planted radishes. To be effective, these traps need to be turned over once or twice a day.
Spraying with decoctions of herbs and other infusions
Ash and tobacco can be used not only in dry form, but also to prepare infusions from them:
- 1 liter of boiling water + a glass of ash is infused for two days, liquid or grated laundry soap is added, stirred and used for spraying;
- 200 g of tobacco dust is poured with a bucket of hot water, infused for a day, 100 g of soap is added, the radish plantings are filtered and processed.
Other popular formulations for spraying cruciferous flea radish include:
- 1 cup chopped garlic + 1 cup tomato stepsons pour 10 liters of warm water, leave for 6 hours, drain, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of liquid soap;
- add 1 cup of 9% vinegar to a bucket of water. Processing with this composition must be carried out in dry weather;
- crushed dandelion roots and leaves (500 g) insist for 4 hours in a bucket of water, strain, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of liquid soap;
- potato tops (2 kg) pour a bucket of water, boil, strain, add 1 tbsp. spoon of liquid soap. It is better to spray in the evening. Tomato stepchildren can be used instead of potato tops.
All of the above compositions have been tested by hundreds of gardeners. For some, ash did an excellent job with the pest, someone prefers vinegar spraying, but we can definitely say the following: in order to determine an effective method for your garden, you need to test several methods, and then the pest will recede.
Last year I read it in a newspaper, a tube of toothpaste is squeezed into a bucket of water, and so it is watered and sprayed. I tried it on Chinese cabbage. There are no fleas for 3-4 days. Then you have to repeat.
I sprinkled everything with tooth powder, it became much less!
Eva77
http://www.tomat-pomidor.com/newforum/index.php?topic\u003d5383.20
Vinegar essence, 1 tsp for a 2 liter bottle - daily spraying.
barbariska
I sprinkled the radish with a mixture of red and black pepper, sprinkled it very hard and the impudent flea did not touch the radish.
Murka
http://www.tomat-pomidor.com/newforum/index.php/topic,5383.0.html?SESSID\u003dc8pdumks61p5l3shv7lvua0sv4
I experimented last year. Three times with an interval of 8-10 days I sprayed a solution of flea shampoo for animals. There were no fleas! Ash and vinegar did not help. Dissolve 3 spoons in an 8 liter sprayer.
http://www.tomat-pomidor.com/newforum/index.php/topic,5383.0.html?SESSID\u003dc8pdumks61p5l3shv7lvua0sv4
Mustard powder helps very well in the fight against cruciferous: dust the ground around the plant and lightly the plant itself. For broad natures, black ground pepper is suitable. Also tested, but it turns out too much ...
Ryabinkin
We fight cruciferous fleas in two ways. First, we dust the bed with ash. Second, we immediately cover all the vegetable "juveniles" that the flea loves with a nonwoven material. According to my observations, the cruciferous flea affects mainly young seedlings, growing cabbage seedlings under any covering material, we successfully avoid the cruciferous flea on cabbage and radishes.
http://dacha.wcb.ru/lofiversion/index.php?t660.html
I have been planting salad in radishes for the second year. I can't say that I don't see her at all on this garden bed, but the fact that there are much fewer fleas and the young have time to get stronger before they are eaten, that's for sure. Try it.
http://dacha.wcb.ru/lofiversion/index.php?t660.html
In the book The Amazing World of Beetles I read how the Russian peasants coped with the cruciferous flea. They sowed large areas of cabbage, there was a cruciferous flea even then, but there were no chemicals. The peasants did the following: they took a stick, attached a canvas to it (a design in the form of a flag was obtained), the upper part of the flag was smeared with a sticky substance (a kind of tar). A man took a stick in his hand and walking along the garden bed, ran the lower part of the canvas over the cabbage leaves, fleas flew up and stuck. After many flea beetles had accumulated, they were cleaned off, the canvas was again smeared, etc. This had to be done every day (in hot and dry weather). The Germans borrowed this idea, only they replaced the peasant with a horse, that is, they made horse traction. How! And no chemistry!
Yakimov
http://dacha.wcb.ru/lofiversion/index.php?t660.html
A good result is obtained by processing the leaves of radish (and other cruciferous) with the powder of common tansy (mountain ash). The baskets harvested during flowering are dried, ground in a mortar until a powder is obtained, with which the plants are dusted - 10 g of powder (matchbox) per 1 m2. The odorless substances contained in the powder repel pests. You can catch cruciferous flea beetles with a cloth soaked in used car oil or diesel oil. The oil-soaked fabric should be spread out on baking trays placed on the beds every 4 m. After 3 days, the fabric should be turned over. You can also scare off cruciferous fleas with a powder made from celandine, if you fumigate or pollinate plants with it. As you can see, you can completely do without pesticides. At the same time, you will protect both the environment and your own health by eating organic vegetables.
Treatment with chemicals is carried out only in case of emergency and in compliance with all safety rules
Radish processing with these preparations is carried out in dry, calm weather, preferably in the evening, when most pests are sitting on the leaves of the radish.
Considering that the vegetable belongs to early ripening crops, and it is possible to consume products from the garden after treatment with chemical preparations no earlier than 20-25 days, it should be recognized that the use of insecticides in the case of radishes is extremely undesirable.
Video: cruciferous flea - control and prevention measures
Cruciferous fleas are the most dangerous insects for radishes. But if you follow preventative measures and know and use ways to deal with them, you can avoid problems with this early vegetable and grow a decent and tasty harvest.
Keeping crop rotation on the backyard helps well in the fight against diseases. Since radish is an early ripening crop (the harvest can be obtained in about 1 month), that is, the temptation to return to the same garden with repeated sowing after a while already in the same season. Doing so is highly undesirable. Since this can lead to outbreaks of various diseases. It is also highly undesirable to plant radishes after cabbage or other cruciferous plants. Good predecessors are onions, garlic, peas, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, taverns.
Pests
The main scourge of radish is cruciferous flea beetles - small bugs, usually dark in color, jump well from place to place. They damage the radish leaves (make holes in them). And if damage to the leaf apparatus of a plant reaches a critical size, then the plant suddenly stops growing and may die. At the same time, the root crop does not ripen and does not grow to the specified size. Radish shoots should be especially protected from flea beetles. Otherwise, crops can be completely destroyed (eaten). An adult plant can still tolerate flea beetles to some extent. Fleas are especially rampant in dry hot weather. Early plantings of radish can generally yield crops before the mass appearance of cruciferous fleas.
Flea control should be carried out using biological methods.
The first method is to spray the leaves with a solution of wood ash. The solution is prepared as follows: about 2 glasses of preferably fresh ash and 50 grams of laundry soap are added to a 10-liter bucket of water. Everything gets mixed up. Some make it easier. They collect ashes on a shovel and crush them over the garden. For a while, the flea limits its harmful activities.
The second way is the same. Only tobacco dust is used instead of ash. It should be said right away that you still need to look for tobacco dust in stores, and although it is not expensive, it is still worth it. And the ash is usually its own, free.
All these methods are still not effective enough. The most efficient - treatment with an insecticide, for example Inta-Vir. But this should be done only as a last resort, only for medium-sized radishes (ripening period 25 days) and only for young seedlings, if the threat of destruction of crops is high enough.
Another exotic (mechanical) way of dealing with cruciferous flea beetles is to cover radishes with white agrospan right along the shoots. If the weather is not too hot, then the seedlings under it do not stretch out and there are no fleas en masse. After the seedlings have grown stronger, we remove the non-woven covering material and fight further with ash.
Important note. It is advisable to transfer radish to drip irrigation. Otherwise, all efforts to combat the flea with the help of infusion on ash will be wasted after the first watering from above on the leaves. The infusion is washed off the leaves, and the flea is back to work.
Another remark. If cultivated plants and weeds of the cruciferous family grow next to the radish, then all the surroundings can be treated with chemistry.
Whitewash is another radish pest. Belianka is a white butterfly with dark edging of its wings. But the leaves of the radish are eaten by its caterpillars.
When fighting a whitewash, it is also advisable to do without the use of chemicals. The beds must be treated with a solution of mustard, table salt and ground pepper. It is prepared like this: for a 10-liter bucket of water - 2 tablespoons of mustard, 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of red or black pepper.
Radish diseases
Bacteriosis.Root crops become slimy, begin to emit a rotten smell. In this case, the leaves of the radish turn yellow.
To combat this disease, plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
Keela. Bulges and growths appear on the surface of the root crops, the leaves of the radish begin to turn yellow and wither.
To combat this fungal disease, the soil around the damaged plants is watered with milk of lime. It is prepared like this: 2 glasses of fluffy lime are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water. One plant must be watered with 1 liter of solution.
Blackleg. Young radish plants can be affected by the black leg. Leaves curl and turn yellow, blackening appears at the base of the plant stem.
To combat the black leg, the following solution is prepared: 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate and 40-50 grams of laundry soap shavings are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water. Then the diseased plants are sprayed.
It is also very good to spray the seedlings with onion husk tincture 2-3 times with an interval of 6 days (about 20 g per liter, leave for 1 day).
When choosing varieties of radish for planting, preference should be given to varieties resistant to various diseases.
But it can be repeated once again that it is better to take preventive measures. And then the likelihood of disease will dramatically decrease.
Smooth, bright marketable radish evokes joy and pride in the work done on the site. But a tasty root crop is liked not only by people, but also by insects, so it is not always possible to get a beautiful harvest. There are many pests that can spoil the radish, destroy its tops or pulp. If you do not fight them, they will quickly spread, filling the site. The article will describe the pests of radish and methods of dealing with them.
Signs of pests on radishes
It is even easier to notice pests on radishes than diseases, because they are visible with the naked eye, and if we are talking about underground pests, then the appearance of the tops or a dug root crop will help determine. There are several main signs of pests:
- ulcers on the leaves;
- twisted, yellow leaves;
- black formations at the base of the sheets;
- sluggish, drooping tops for no reason;
- leaves in holes that could not appear in any other way, except from caterpillars and other pests;
- holes and tunnels are visible on the radish itself.
In particular, you need to watch out for young radish shoots. They are very vulnerable and if pests attack them, you can lose the entire crop!
Insects usually eat the leaves immediately, although underground ones can start from the root or root vegetable, so you need to be careful. And at the first sign, retaliate.
The main pests of radish
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Radish pests do not appear spontaneously in the garden. Usually they switch to radishes from other crops or from weeds that are on the site.
- Cabbage White is a white butterfly with a black border along the edge of the wing. It lays eggs in areas where radishes grow, and the caterpillars hatching from them eat the bases of the radish leaves. This leads to the fact that the root crop stops growing and may simply not grow.
- The cruciferous flea is one of the most dangerous enemies of the radish. She eats still young leaves of radish, gnawing holes in them when they first appear. After their invasion, the planting bed resembles a sieve.
- The wireworm is a pest known to any gardener. This is the larva of the click beetle, which can destroy the entire plant - ground and underground parts in a short time.
- The cabbage and garden scoop are gray-brown butterflies that also leave clutches on radish leaves. The larvae that emerge from them eat the leaves, while only transparent skeletons remain of the green tops. Of course, root crops in the ground cease to develop completely and dry out or rot.
- The cabbage moth is a gray-brown insect that has a noticeable fringe on its wings. The moth itself is not harmful to radish, but its larvae suck the juices from the tops and eat the leaf tissue.
- The spring and summer cabbage fly is an ash-colored insect (the summer fly is usually larger than the spring one). Among the plantings of radishes and other vegetables, she lays eggs, and the white larvae (worms) hatching from them penetrate deep into the ground and eat the roots of the radish. Within 2-3 days, the radish becomes unusable.
As you can see, there are a lot of pests that threaten radish. But if you know how to deal with them, you don't have to worry about the harvest or its quality.
How to deal with radish pests?
When the gardener recognizes a pest that encroaches on the area with radishes, you can begin to exterminate the pests. There are many specialized preparations that very effectively cope with their task, but they must be used exclusively according to the instructions, during that period of culture development, when they cannot harm the crop.
- « Actellic "- a well-known drug effective against cabbage fly, cabbage whiteworm, scoops. For 10 liters of warm water, 20 ml of the substance is taken, mixed well and used for spraying. This solution is enough for 10 squares of planting.
- « Entobacterin "- a strong, biological preparation against cabbage moths, aphids, cabbage whites. It is used dry (for dusting) or liquid (for spraying). Diluted according to the guidance provided on the package.
- « Zolon »Used for cabbage whites, midges, scoops, aphids, cruciferous fleas. The method of use is indicated on the package.
- « Zemlin »Can save the site from cabbage flies, wireworms and other insects living in the ground. Diluted according to the rules on the package and used immediately. You cannot cook this product for future use!
- « Provotox »Is a strong anti-wireworm preparation that is not addictive to insects and can therefore be used annually. Divorced according to the instructions on the box.
Spraying or watering with insecticides is carried out only in dry weather. If it rains after using the insecticide, it is advisable to repeat the procedure, because the water washes away most of the insecticide.
- « Aktara "- a universal preparation against various pests on cruciferous plants. He can remove caterpillars, larvae, butterflies, moths, aphids from the site. However, you need to use it carefully because it is also harmful to bees. Therefore, it is always used only according to the instructions and only when there are no flowering plants nearby.
- « Initiative "Hatches wireworm, caterpillars, scoop, cruciferous flea beetle, fly larvae, cabbage whitewash. One bag (30 g) is enough for about 15 square meters of land. This remedy is prepared atypically. It is not divorced with water, but mixed with sand. A ¾ liter jar is filled with sand, and then 30 g of the substance is poured there and mixed. The resulting composition is sprayed over the site.
- « Bazudin »Copes with the invasion of bears, cabbage fly larvae, weevils, wireworms. To use, fill a ¾ liter jar with sand, add 30 g of Bazudin and spray over the area with radishes. This amount is usually sufficient for 20 square meters of planting.
Folk methods of struggle
In the case when radish pests have just appeared on the plant, you can not immediately use strong, specialized means, but do with folk remedies.
- Ash soap. In a bucket of water (10 L), dissolve 50 g of laundry soap and 2 glasses of wood ash. The resulting composition is thoroughly mixed and used for watering the radish. This tool copes with the cruciferous flea.
- Mustard with pepper. If a mole, scoop, cabbage whitewash appears on the radish, you can scare them away with this remedy. A teaspoon of red, hot pepper powder, 2 tablespoons of salt and the same amount of dry mustard are mixed in 10 liters of water. The resulting mixture is watered with plants.
- Tobacco and ash drive away caterpillars, larvae, flea bees. With one of these means or both, you just need to powder the leaves and the ground where the radish grows. This simple procedure will scare away pests.
- Ash and lime in a 1: 1 mixture can drive away a horde of cruciferous flea beetles. But you need to use this tool only in dry weather, and repeat after rains.
Preventive actions
Every gardener knows what pests live on his site or lived earlier. In order to prevent their secondary appearance or damage to radish by them, preventive measures must be taken.
- The aisles should be clean - no weeds, fallen leaves, and it is also not recommended to thicken the crops.
- Preventive spraying of crops avoids possible problems. But it is not necessary to use insecticides for this. If there are no pests yet, folk recipes will also be effective.
Interesting!
Insects are especially active during the hot season. And most of all they are attracted by young radish.
- Any affected plants are best removed rather than waiting for the crop to recover. While the gardener waits, the pest is looking for new, tasty treats and switches to them.
- Rot always attracts pests, so there should be no such odors on the site. Old mulch is changed in time, fallen leaves are burned, waste is thrown away.
- Observance of crop rotation avoids pests. You can't plant radishes after crucifers!
- Watering should be done in moderation. An abundance or lack of moisture can attract insects for which such an environment is comfortable.
- Many pests like an acidic environment, so you need to control the acidity of the earth and adjust it as needed.
As you can see, everything is not very difficult, the main thing is to take a comprehensive approach to the problem, if it appears. But, in general, subject to preventive measures and a timely response to the appearance of pests, the gardener may not worry about the radish harvest.
Radish pests cause irreparable damage to cropsCommon signs of pest damage to radish
The main pests of radish and the fight against them
There are ground and underground pests that can ruin your radish crop. If you notice the first signs of damage, you need to urgently take action. Today, there are many effective pest control methods that can help deal with the problem early.
Cruciferous fleas (Latin Phyllotretacruciferae)
If radish pests are found on the surface of the foliage, which jump high and destroy the tops, gnawing holes in it, then cruciferous fleas have started on your plants. Such damage is fraught with infection of the leaves with bacteriosis, which can spread to root crops. In addition, the complete wilting of the green mass will cause a growth arrest or deformation of the radish.
To further protect the plants, they are sprinkled once a week with a mixture of ash and lime in a 1: 1 ratio. This should be done in dry weather, and be sure to repeat after rains.
In case of mass defeat, the following drugs are used to fight: Tod, Alfatsin, Zolon, Kaiser, Arrivo.
Cabbage whites (Pierisbrassicae)
They love the juicy leaves of the radish. Caterpillars are located on the underside of the leaves and gradually spread to neighboring plants. The first sign of the appearance of an insect is twisted leaves with oblong holes.
When spreading pests, chemical agents are effective: Iskra M, Kemifos, Fitoferm.
Garden moth larvae (Latin Noctuidae)
Before treating radishes with chemicals, you can try spraying with an infusion of potato tops, which is good for the garden scoop. To prepare it, take 500 grams of dried plants and leave in a warm place for 4 hours. Before spraying, 50 grams of grated laundry soap can be added to the solution. Irrigation is carried out in the evening, always in dry weather.
If folk remedies do not help, it makes sense to apply chemicals. In the fight against these insects, Zeta-cypermethrin, IntaVir are effective.
Wireworms and clickers (lat.Elateridae)
They give preference to young shoots. The click beetles themselves feed on leaves, and their larvae feed on juicy root vegetables. Wireworm damage is fraught with the development of rot, and many other fungal diseases. Radish begins to blacken and rot from the inside. The damaged crop cannot be stored, most often it loses its taste.
Nutcrackers do not tolerate ammonium sulfate fertilizers. The use of such funds will help get rid of pests, and therefore from contamination of the soil with their larvae.
A good prevention against wireworms is to add onion husks to each well when planting radishes and other cruciferous crops. If the pest has attacked a large area of \u200b\u200bthe site, you can use the drug Bazudin.
Cabbage moth (Latin Plutellaxylostella) and cabbage fly (Latin Anthomyiidae)
The insects themselves are safe for radishes, but the larvae of these insects damage the root of the plant, eating holes in it. Caterpillars can completely destroy young leaves, which will stop the process of photosynthesis and, accordingly, the development of the root crop.
The question arises of how to spray radishes from pests before they have time to lay the larvae. Cabbage flies and moths will die if you use substances based on naphthalene, slaked lime, camphor. If more than 15% of plants are affected, it is worth applying Lepidocide, Bitoxibacillin.
Stem nematodes (lat.Ditylenchusdipsaci)
The most dangerous pests of radish are stem nematodes. They feed on plant sap, can live in the root collar of the fruit, the root itself, or the stem. Damaged radish stops growing, in many cases the plant withers, becomes sick, and dies.
If the risk of infection is too high, that is: nematodes were found in neighboring plants, or these pests were in the beds last year, insecticides should be applied. In the fight against nematodes, they are used: Dimethoat, Rogor, Vidat. The use of chemistry is advisable only for young seedlings in spring, as well as at the beginning of summer - for varieties with medium and late ripening.
Preventive methods for protecting crucifers
In order for radishes to grow and bear fruit well, the pests, the control measures for which we considered in the material, should not multiply and feel comfortable on your site. This requires:
- ensure cleanliness in the aisles, remove leaves and grass;
- carry out preventive treatments of plants;
- remove infected plants on the site, the putrid smell attracts pests;
- do not store sheaves of straw, manure heaps, overheating leaves;
- observe the norms of irrigation and fertilization, control the acidity of the soil;
- regularly use ashes and ashes as a top dressing for radishes.
It is important to take into account that radishes, cabbage, turnips are affected by the same insects as radish pests, and the fight against them on all cruciferous crops is carried out in a complex manner.
Outcome
After spraying radish with protective agents, it is recommended to irrigate with a drop method so as not to wash off the preventive agents from the leaves of plants. Regularly applying preventive methods of radish pest control and folk recipes for organic mixtures, you can grow an excellent harvest without the use of drugs, and in case of massive damage to cruciferous plants, use chemical agents to prevent the destruction of the crop.
Hello dear friends!
Radish is one of the first crops to produce juicy roots at the beginning of the summer season, allowing you to fully enjoy the taste and benefits of spring vitamin salads. In order for the plants to develop well, and fruits to form in the ground, plantings must be protected from the main pests of all cruciferous crops - the cruciferous flea beetle and white beetle. So, the topic of the article is radish pest control on the site.
Cruciferous flea beetle harm
Most often, young shoots of radish suffer from an invasion of cruciferous flea beetles - small dark-colored bugs that jump from place to place. They feed on the aerial part of young shoots, damaging the leaf apparatus.
The main sign of the presence of a pest in plantings is the appearance of a large number of holes in the tops. When the critical mass of leaf damage is reached, the plant lags behind in growth, practically does not develop, and may even die. The underground part of the seedlings does not grow at the same time, so you can not count on the radish harvest.
A particular distribution of pests is observed in dry weather and summer heat, which, as a rule, are established in the middle zone from the end of May. Early sowing of the crop can give a full harvest before the mass distribution of cruciferous fleas.
Biological solutions and formulations against radish pests
To avoid the accumulation of toxic substances in the fruits, fans of organic farming process crops with natural products that are completely decomposed in the environment, but toxic to insects.
Spraying on the leaves with an infusion of ash has proven itself well. To prepare a biological insecticide, 2 cups of plant ash (sifted) and 40 g of liquid or grated bar soap are diluted in a bucket of water to improve the adhesion of the composition.
The ash infusion should stand for 24 hours in the barn, after which it is filtered, poured into a spray bottle and the plantings are irrigated (abundant). To enhance the action of the solution, a few drops of fir essential oil are added to it, the aroma of which is not tolerated by fleas. The treatments are repeated several times with an interval of 2-3 days.
Instead of ash, you can use tobacco dust. The solution is prepared in the same ratio. Tobacco has powerful insecticidal properties, repelling and destroying voracious insects.
How to process the crops of radish from the caterpillars of the white hare
The second most dangerous enemy of radish is the leaf-gnawing caterpillars of the white beetle butterfly. They feed on juicy young radish greens and do the same harm as cruciferous fleas.
A combined solution of ground red pepper and table salt is used against the white woman. For a standard bucket of water, 2 tablespoons of mustard and salt and 1 heaped teaspoon of chili powder are taken.
Spraying is performed in dry weather in the early morning or evening so that the sun's rays do not burn the leaf plates through drops of liquid. If it rains after treatment, irrigation should be repeated after the end of the rainfall.
Some plants planted along the perimeter or at the ends of the beds, as well as in the aisles of crops, help to scare off white-fly butterflies from crops of radish. We are talking about perennials: mint, lemon balm, tansy, wormwood.
The compositions described work against cruciferous flea beetles and white beetles not only on the radish plantation. They are used for planting cabbage and its seedlings, as well as other crops belonging to the cruciferous family.
Watch a video about growing and controlling pests and diseases of radish (U Tatiana Info channel).
Effective radish pest control in the beds with the help of folk recipes will help you achieve good spring harvests! See you, friends!