The erection of a wooden floor in a bath should begin with the installation of floor logs, which should be pine or made of larch. Boards of the same type of wood are attached to these logs. When laying the floor, it should be done with a certain slope, for easy drainage of the liquid. However, if you arrange a leaky floor, this condition is not necessary. Laying lags should be carried out according to the minimum distance from the selected wall to another, but if the walls in the bath are equilateral, this condition can also be ignored.
Having determined the path of the flowing liquid, we mount the lags across the given vector. To achieve the required rigidity, support chairs are mounted in the central region of each of them, which can easily be made of brick or a pliable material such as wood. Under them, a support platform reinforced with a chain-link mesh is made of a durable concrete mixture, at least a quarter of a meter wide.
We dig forty centimeter holes under the platform base, followed by tamping the edges and the bottom. At the bottom of such pits, a ten-centimeter sand layer is poured and compacted with pouring water. Above this layer, a fifteen-centimeter gravel layer is laid and also compacted. Instead of ordinary rubble, you can take a broken brick.
The formwork, which looks out more than 5 cm above the ground surface, is realized from edged boards. The edges should be isolated from water with roofing felt or use roofing material. After the installation of the formwork is completed, the debut concrete layer is laid there, which has an approximate thickness of about 15 cm. It is rammed and covered with a chain-link mesh, and then exactly the same second layer is laid on top. Before installing a wooden or brick support on the site under construction, a waterproofing layer is made from bitumen brought to the melting point, covered with roofing material. The degree of elevation of the supports should be selected taking into account the degree of elevation of the supports for the ends of the floor joists.
The base of the tape type requires the same height of the support and the top of the foundation being built.
But the columnar type of the base under construction, which is now being considered, requires the same height of the supporting top and the elevated part of the mortgage-type beam, since we will rest the end parts of the log on the bars of the mortgage crown. After completing the work with the supports, we proceed to the preparation of the soil, which is underground.
Leaking floors in a bath room with sandy soil need crushed stone backfill, the thickness of which can be a quarter of a meter. This material will play the role of a filter here, providing an optimal level of humidity in the underground under consideration. The soil that does not absorb water very well needs to be equipped with a tray where water that goes beyond the bath will accumulate.
In order to implement this technology, it is desirable to equip a clay castle under the floor of the leaking type, which has a slope towards the drainage tray. The castle can also be made of concrete mix, but it will be more expensive. To make such a castle, you need to tamp a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone poured onto the soil surface and pour a fifteen-centimeter layer of such a pliable material as clay on top of it. It must be flat and have a two-sided slope in relation to the equipped pit relative to the horizon line.
If you equip a floor of a non-leaking type, you should insulate the surface of the bath underground with such a multifunctional and inexpensive material as expanded clay. At the same time, there should be about 15 cm between it and the lags for optimal air circulation. The flushing compartment near the wall here will serve as a place for the equipment of the pit, from where a pipe leading out of the water will lead to the outside. Its diameter must exceed 150 mm so as not to slow down the process of emptying the gutter.
Installation of lags
The laying of logs for a non-leaking type floor should be carried out from the walls to the drainage tray, while the front logs should be mounted higher in level than the rest, and not cut into them. In the following lags, inclined cuts are made at an angle of approximately 10 degrees, while their depth depends on the number of lags used - the fewer, the deeper the cuts.
The sawing of the bars here is carried out taking into account the dimensions of the space of the bath room, so that about 4 cm remains on both sides of the interlags and wall surfaces for successful air circulation.
Installation of lags is carried out on a mortgage beam and pillars related to the support type. In the process, waterproofing materials, such as roofing felt and glassine, are certainly used. All mounted logs are treated with an antiseptic solution.
You can check the correct installation with a building level. To bring the logs to a more horizontal position, it is necessary to carry out a hemming on them of places based on a mortgage beam or a support used.
You can also check the evenness of the laying with a level. This can be done by placing the level on a board lying on the logs with a leveled surface. You can trim the logs either with the help of linings or undercuts.
Near the equipped base, the logs must certainly lie along the perimeter at a distance that is about 15 cm from the edges. The furnace foundation is brought to the level of the flooring only after the laying work is completed.
Photo - furnace foundation
To do this, you will need to lay out the base under the stove on a pre-arranged site. Here you can use refractory bricks or concrete.
Leaking floor installation
Unedged boards are used here, previously planed and leveled at the ends.
The boards are cut according to the dimensions of the bath room, taking into account that there is a two-centimeter gap between the surface of the walls and the floor. Flooring can be started from any wall surface, as long as it is parallel to the course of the boards.
The cut boards are laid with an indent of 2 cm from the wall surface and nailed. In this case, if the thickness of the board is represented by a value of 40 mm., The length of the fastener used must exceed 80 mm.
Fasteners should be used along the edges of the boards, at a distance of about 1.5 cm from their edges. It is best to drive the nails inward at an angle of 40 degrees from the center section of the board. At least a couple of nails should be used to fasten one board.
The gap between the boards to be nailed must exceed 3 mm. To comply with this condition, a piece of a regular fiberboard sheet inserted between them will help.
Installation of non-leaking floor
Here, tongue-and-groove boards are optimally suited, which, as a rule, are laid with a groove inside the bath room.
Before starting work, the so-called black floor covering is mounted. To implement this, special bars are attached to the frontal parts of the lag, having a cross section represented by a value of 50x50 mm. On them between the lags are boards belonging to the second or third grade.
On top of the finished "black" floor covering is lined with a layer of materials that provide protection from moisture, such as glassine or a common and inexpensive roofing material.
Expanded clay, poured into the space between the lags, can serve as a heater here. After the backfill is completed, a waterproofing layer is also laid.
Having finished with the device of the “black” floor covering, we start work on laying the final floor. Here, grooved boards are taken. So that they can be removed from their places for subsequent drying, the boards used in the work can not even be fastened with such fasteners as nails, using instead bars with a section of 20x30 mm., Mounted to the logs with special screws - “capercaillie”. Thus, you can easily make the floor in the bath with your own hands.
You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands if all the necessary work is done correctly. The service life of the floor depends on the quality of the base preparation, the choice of insulating materials and the finishing coating. We will consider the installation of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as the technological nuances that must be taken into account.
Features of the device floors in the bath
How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in the bath? The construction of the bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme operating conditions for the floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact of the floor base with water can significantly reduce the life of the floor.
The choice of a specific method of arranging the foundation in a "damp" room depends on such factors:
- method of heat and waterproofing;
- type of foundation and the presence of an underground;
- seasonal use of the bath;
- type of soil under the building;
- structural features of the building.
If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a solid foundation with pouring a concrete screed. In a frame building, which is used only in the warm season, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly from an economic point of view will be more profitable.
Types of wood floors
The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, it helps to save heat in a "damp" room. However, high humidity can cause wood elements to rot. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor logs and flooring made from coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the wood structure.
All types of wooden coverings for baths can be conditionally divided into the following categories:
- Leaking. The boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately removed from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a foundation is beneficial for several reasons:
- simple installation;
- low cost of floors;
- no need to install a drain system.
- Non-leaking. A monolithic coating assembled from boards can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector in the base, with the help of which the waste water would be discharged into the sewer. The non-leakage coating device has the following advantages:
- long period of operation;
- good thermal insulation of the room;
- the possibility of assembling underfloor heating.
Necessary tools
The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of floors. The microclimate in the room depends on the quality of the installation work associated with the installation of the sewer system and the laying of floor materials. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.
The device of a concrete base is possible with the following tools:
- concrete mixer;
- lighthouses;
- rule (for alignment);
- building level;
- container for solution;
- shovel.
To make a wooden coating, you will need other tools:
- a hammer;
- jigsaw (angle grinder);
- plane;
- roulette;
- nails.
To understand how to properly mount the floors in the bath, consider a step-by-step guide to laying wooden and concrete floors.
Standard floor construction
The base, equipped in the steam room, should be located 8-9 cm above the zero level. In this case, the temperature in the room will remain at the required level for a long time. At the same time, in the washing room, the base is made somewhat lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.
The standard flooring is represented by a multilayer cake:
- waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
- bars under a wooden crate;
- draft coating;
- insulating materials (insulation, waterproofing);
- logs for assembling the crate;
- heat and water insulators;
- lining;
- air bag;
- wood and concrete layer;
- decorative coating.
Features of the preparation of the base
The traditional construction of a warm floor begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the finish coating, in the process of preparing the base, the following work is performed:
- In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, represented by broken bricks or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
- Gravel or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured from above;
- Then the laid materials are well compacted.
Laying a mineral cushion helps to break capillarity, due to which ground moisture rises to the base and destroys it.
Preparation of the working mixture for concrete floors
To make a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and order of adding the necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution is implemented in two stages.
First stage:
- 10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
- Then about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
- The components are mixed;
- Next, add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
- The mixture is well stirred;
- Then add about 5 more liters of water;
- Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
If necessary, you can slightly improve the technical characteristics of the composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, do the following:
- 10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
- Add about 2-2.5 liters of water;
- The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into loose;
- After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again well mixed.
Ultimately, a loose composition will be obtained, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.
Filling the first layer
If the area of the rough coating is small, the screed is made immediately on the entire site. To fill the screed over a large area, the room is conditionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to lay the first layer of concrete mix?
- The thickness of the "rough" screed must reach at least 12 cm;
- The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
- Level the mixture using the rule;
- So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
- The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.
Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors
As soon as the screed hardens, you need to proceed to the stage of thermal and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, the defects on the coating close up.
As a waterproofing material, as a rule, the following are chosen:
- bituminous mastic;
- polyethylene film;
- roll roofing material.
After arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to make floor insulation. For these purposes can be used:
- mineral wool;
- polystyrene;
- penoplex;
- granulated expanded clay;
- foam concrete.
The thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, expanded clay is the optimal insulation for concrete surfaces. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.
Filling the finishing screed
Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be noted that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.
And yet, the arrangement of floors in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure greater strength, it is worth laying a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.
Features of wooden floors
Wooden flooring is a traditional type of coating that is used for arranging floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers due to the following qualities:
- Wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
- The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, unlike concrete;
- Wooden flooring creates a more comfortable atmosphere in the room.
In addition, you can make a wooden base in just a few days, since the stage of “wet” work can be bypassed, which you cannot do when pouring the screed.
Laying wooden floors
How to lay wooden floors correctly? Mounting a wooden base is quite easy, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:
- Construction of support posts. To install the supports, rather thick bars with a cross section of 15 cm are used. It is the racks that will experience the greatest load during the operation of the base of the floor covering. They are placed on metal or brick pillars, secured with steel brackets. When arranging floors in a bathhouse erected on a pile foundation, the lag is laid on a mortgage crown;
- Underground installation. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid in the underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a reservoir is installed under the floor to collect runoff water, which by gravity flows into the sewer through a pipeline. If you need to make a non-leaking base, it is mandatory to insulate it (expanded clay, foam plastic). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, ventilation holes are made in the foundation for better air circulation;
- Laying lag and finishing flooring. To arrange leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the logs, on which draft boards are thrown. Then they put a layer of hydro and heat insulator. After that, the wooden crate is sheathed with a grooved board. Inside the "pie", between the finishing boards and the logs, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for ventilation of the underground.
It is very problematic to build a bath with a wear-resistant floor, given the specific microclimate in the room. To increase the period of operation of the floor covering, during its installation it is worth considering such moments.
Arrangement of the floor in a private steam room should be given special attention. The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depend on how competently its design is thought out and implemented.
Materials for arranging floors in the steam room - what to use?
The floor base in the bath performs several important functions at once. It not only ensures the safety of human movement during water procedures, but is also part of the water removal system. A properly constructed floor in the bath does not wear out ahead of time, does not rot due to high humidity, and effectively retains heat in the room. In private steam rooms, the foundations we are interested in are most often made of wood and concrete. Brick coatings are used much less frequently. They are expensive and quite difficult to arrange with your own hands.
If you want to build a capital stone or brick sauna room with a rest room, a washing department, a dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise opting for a concrete base. It must be equipped with a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small baths, operated exclusively in the summer, simpler wooden floors are suitable. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, have a very presentable appearance.
Wooden bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, saturate the room with pleasant natural aromas, make each bath procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages of wooden floors. The durability of such structures leaves much to be desired. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to re-lay the wooden floors in the steam room.
Concrete structures are much more preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature changes.
Concrete products withstand even the most difficult operating conditions. On average, such foundations are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. We immediately note the obvious disadvantages of concrete coatings. They are very cold (for this reason, a suitable finishing material, for example, a tile, is laid on top of them), time-consuming to install with your own hands, they require a serious investment of time and financial resources.
Concrete foundation - we build for centuries!
The floor for a bath made of concrete, in fact, is an ordinary screed. It is made from a solution in which there is sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother with mixing the required ingredients to obtain a concrete composition, but immediately purchase the finished mixture at the nearest construction store. Factory sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They only need to be diluted with ordinary water in the recommended volume, thoroughly mixed with a perforator with a nozzle, and then used for its intended purpose.
If the screed will serve as a finishing floor covering, or a simple board flooring will be mounted on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases when it is planned to lay tiles on top of the concrete pavement, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite with gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It is even easier to buy a self-levelling compound designed specifically for such cases.
The concrete base for the bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of an elementary system for removing water. It consists of an intermediate tank (this role is usually played by a small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the pit should be concreted and a tubular product with a cross section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its second end is led into an autonomous septic tank at the site or into the gutter. We start another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is desirable to provide this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the steam room.
Next, prepare the platform for the screed. We remove the top layer of soil, pour sand into the resulting pit, ram it, pour brick or gravel on top. We should get a layer of about 0.25 m. Add 10 cm of crushed stone on top. Once again we ram the whole cake and fill it with a sand-cement mixture (about 5-6 cm thick). An important nuance! The concrete layer must have a slight slope towards the reservoir pit.
When the solution hardens, lay mineral wool or polystyrene on it (you can pour a layer of expanded clay, perlite). These materials play the role of an effective insulation. Under the foam and cotton wool, we must put waterproofing (it is most reasonable to use roofing material). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we mount a metal mesh (wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.
Now you can pour the main screed. We serve the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition is necessarily leveled (you need to work with an assistant). This operation is performed with a trowel. And to tighten the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2-3 days, the screed will harden. It can be laid flooring from boards or tiles. We mount the trim with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If concrete is planned to be used as a finishing coating (it is possible to do so), we simply carefully level and grind its surface. But remember that such a floor in a private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.
Leaking wood floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor
You can make a floor in a wooden bath using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking. Advice. If you have little experience in construction work, it is better to build leaky floors. They are made in the form of flooring from boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, the used water goes into the ground. Insulation of such structures is not carried out, the sewer system is not being built. Instead of the latter, a simple drainage pit is used. They dig it under the bath.
You can make a floor in a bath of this type according to the following algorithm:
- 1. We level a piece of land, fill it with a layer of gravel, which should be well compacted.
- 2. We prepare wooden logs (we cut them to the required dimensions, apply an antiseptic composition) and support pillars for them.
- 3. We mount the processed logs on the supports, keeping the distance between the individual elements at the level of 0.5 m.
- 4. Lay the boardwalk. We leave gaps of 2-3 mm between the wall of the bath, the floor and the boards to be mounted.
It is not necessary to fix the flooring elements to the lags. The described coating is recommended to be regularly removed and taken out under the sun to dry. If necessary, at any time it is possible to replace rotten boards. The service life of the described floor structure is 4–6 years. Then you have to build a new one. Such leaking floors are best used in the country, where you visit from time to time and rarely use the steam room.
There is another way to arrange simple boardwalks. It is less difficult to implement. After preparing the plot of land, bars-beams with a section of 10x10 to 15x15 cm should be placed around the perimeter of the foundation. Be sure to apply an antiseptic on them! We install logs on the beams, fix them, and on top we mount the flooring from the boards.
Leaking floors of both types can be constructed from hardwood and softwood. It is not recommended to lay oak boards. They become very slippery when wet. It is better to opt for products made of pine, linden or larch. The last option is considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made of planed edged boards 4-5 cm thick. Thinner products in high humidity conditions will not last long.
Non-leaking wood floor - environmentally friendly and quite reliable
Now let's try to properly make a non-leaking base. It will take more time to build such a structure. But the result of the work will be of better quality. Leak-proof wooden floors are suitable for year-round steam rooms. The design of such bases requires the arrangement of a rough intermediate coating and the mandatory installation of a heat-insulating layer. Due to this, the service life of such structures reaches 10–12 years.
We build a non-leaking floor in the bath according to the following step-by-step guide:
- 1. We make a hole-reservoir, we lay pipes for drains by analogy with the arrangement of drainage for concrete pavements.
- 2. We prepare the site. We remove the layer of earth, fill the cleaned area with sand and gravel. Each layer of material is rammed. If desired, pour a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
- 3. We cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. The best protector from moisture in this case will be roofing material.
- 4. We perform insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
- 5. We install logs with a step of 0.5 m on pre-mounted beams. For the manufacture of the latter, you need to use bars 10x20 cm. These supports, as you remember, are fastened along the perimeter of the foundation.
Then we mount the intermediate base. We fix the draft floor from the bottom of the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing material). On top of the insulation we lay another layer of waterproofing material. The last stage of work is the installation of the finishing floor. We install it with a slope, we lay the boards close to each other. The finish coating is attached to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws.
We take boards for non-leaking floors, tongue-and-groove, 3-5 cm thick. We make logs from wooden blocks with dimensions of 5x7 cm. Pay attention! The lower edge of the floor base made of wood must rise 10–20 cm above the level of the basement (its upper edge) of the bath. We hope that our instructions will help you build a truly reliable floor in your steam room.
Performs several important functions. First of all, it ensures the safe movement of people. The steam room is always humid. Therefore, the floor must be non-slip so that visitors do not get injured. Also under the base of the premises are sewer communications. The floor should be equipped so that the water is discharged as efficiently as possible. In this case, the coating and all finishing materials inside the steam room will last much longer.
To equip the floor in the bath room correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experienced builders. In this case, you will be able to do all the work yourself.
materials
Considering how to make a floor in a steam room, should start with the choice of material. There are two main options. In the first case, the floor is created from wood, and in the second from concrete. Everyone chooses for himself the best type of material.
The concrete floor will require more time and effort. It is also a more expensive type of material. However, the service life of a concrete floor is more than 50 years. It is believed that it is easier to equip a floor made of wood. Such material is cheaper. In this case, the work is done faster and easier.
Operated for 7-8 years. Despite such a short duration of operation of the material, in most cases, masters prefer this particular option. It is quite possible to mount a wooden coating yourself.
Choice of wood
The quality finish of the steam room depends on the right choice of wood. This material must be well dried. Boards should not have defects, cracks or chips. Also, the presence of traces of decay is not allowed.
Deciduous wood species are preferable for a steam room. It is believed that such material has a different effect on the human body. For example, birch is able to energize bath visitors, and aspen, on the contrary, removes negative emotions.
Birch is considered one of the best materials for finishing a steam room. It is well treated with protective compounds. Larch is also considered one of the best options for a bath. This is a durable material. It tolerates temperature extremes, high humidity.
With proper processing, linden can also be used for decoration. Shelves in the steam room are also made from the listed materials, they create decoration for the ceiling and walls.
Leaking floor
Which gets off with wood, can be of two types. The first option involves the presence of gaps between the boards. The accumulated moisture will simply flow down. The second version of the floor in the steam room is called non-leaking. It is a bit more complicated to set up.
A leaky floor is the simplest finish option. There are gaps in the flooring through which water seeps into the soil. Sewerage in this case is not equipped. Only in the underground space is a drainage pit created. Sometimes it is replaced by a special container that communicates with sewer communications. Floor insulation in the steam room also don't.
The presented version of the floor is suitable only for the southern regions and buildings that are operated exclusively in the summer. Boards in this case are not nailed to the lags. They are periodically removed and taken out into the street. Here they are dried and returned to their original place.
Leak-proof floor
The bath, the steam room of which is created in accordance with all building codes, must be leak-proof. When creating its floor, the boards are laid in two rows. First, a rough flooring is installed on the logs. On top of it spread hardwood sheet piled wood.
There are no gaps between the boards in this case. A layer of insulation is laid under the floor. The finish coating should have a slight slope to the place of drainage. A hole with a siphon is equipped here to divert water into the sewer.
To prevent the appearance of deflections in the wooden covering over time, supports are installed in the middle of the lag system. They can be brick, concrete. It is also allowed to use wood for similar purposes.
Arrangement of the underground
Needs proper arrangement of the space under it. If a leaky floor is created, the filtration properties of the soil are evaluated first. If there is sand under the base of the bath, it will be enough to fill it with gravel. The layer should be about 25 cm. The gravel will clean up the drains before they enter directly into the ground. There must be a distance of at least 10 cm between the backfill and the lags.
If there are loamy soils and clay under the leaking bath, you will need to install a tray to drain the water into the sewer. To do this, a clay castle is created under the floor. It should have a slope towards the sewer.
If the bath is not leaking, the base is covered with expanded clay. There should be a distance of at least 15 cm between it and the lags. This is necessary to create proper ventilation.
Beginning of work
The device of the floor in the steam room involves the installation of a log. They rest on a foundation. A similar design is typical for almost all. The creation of a foundation and a sewerage system under the floor allows you to meet the requirements of sanitary and hygienic standards. Otherwise, an unpleasant smell appears in the room over time, and the wooden coating is destroyed.
After arranging the foundation, it is necessary to install logs on it. If the area of the steam room is large, you will need to build additional bedside tables. They will help reduce the gaps between the lags.
For the arrangement of the subfloor, hardwood is chosen. It is also allowed to use slabs or thick boards for these purposes. With the help of self-tapping screws or by grooving, the rough flooring is attached to the beams. Next, a heat-insulating layer is necessarily equipped.
Insulation installation
In the steam room, it is necessary to have thermal insulation. In this case, the heating of the room will occur faster. Heat loss is significantly reduced. This allows you to save on energy resources.
The modern market for heaters offers many varieties of materials. They differ in cost and technical characteristics. Mineral wool is best suited for arranging the floor in the bath. This is an environmentally friendly material. It is able to reliably isolate the room, not letting heat out.
In order for the thermal insulation and the entire structure of the wooden floor to last for a long time, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation. To do this, you can purchase glassine, roofing material or a polymer membrane.
Finished floor laying
The floor in the steam room is equipped immediately after the installation of the rough base, mineral wool and waterproofing. To do this, prepare grooved boards. Their thickness should not be less than 3 cm.
The boards must not be laid too tightly. If moisture gets on them, the material will swell. If there is not enough room for linear expansion, the wood will lead. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to leave small gaps between the boards on the finish surface.
It is also important to consider the direction of annual rings. At adjacent boards, they should look in different directions. With this installation technique, it is possible to achieve a high level of evenness of the coating.
All trim elements must be installed with the convex side up. In this case, the floor will be strong and reliable.
Final stage
At the final stage, wood is treated with special solutions. There are many such options available for sale. the master decides for himself. It should be an antiseptic that will prevent the appearance of fungus and decay on the floor surface. This solution is also treated with two side and bottom side of the boards.
When laying a finishing coating, it is important to make a slope towards the drain hole. After that, you can carry out scraping and installation of skirting boards. You can remove irregularities on the surface of the coating manually. However, it is more expedient to use an electric planer for these purposes. Before starting such work, it is necessary to check whether nails stick out on the surface of the floor.
Wall and ceiling decoration
After arranging the floor, finishing work on the walls and ceiling is carried out, a door to the steam room and shelves are installed. In this case, it is also allowed to use wood, lining. She finishes the ceiling and walls. A layer of insulation and waterproofing is also installed under the front cover. You should not purchase polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam for such purposes. In a steam room, such heaters will release substances that are unsafe for the human body.
It should be remembered that it is impossible to finish the ceiling and walls in the steam room with plastic, wood panels, chipboard, plywood, etc. Coniferous woods are also not suitable for these purposes. They will release resin when heated. This will cause burns.
It is not recommended to cover the lining in the bath with special means. Lacquer, stain or other similar coatings, when heated, will emit harmful substances, an unpleasant odor will appear. Being in such a room would be simply unbearable.
Interior arrangement
After finishing the ceiling and walls, it is necessary to install the door to the steam room. It can be made of special heat-resistant glass or wood. The first option is preferable. Glass allows you to create a stylish look inside the steam room.
Should be in multiple rows. To create them, hardwoods are used. The surface of the material must be well polished. It should not have defects, chips. It is also unacceptable that metal caps of carnations protrude on the surface of the shelves. At elevated temperatures, this may cause burns.
An important element is the oven. There are many different models on the market. The stove can be wood-burning or have an electric heating element. Each owner chooses the best option for himself. Some owners prefer to build it from bricks right on the spot. It is easier for others to purchase ready-made furnaces made of steel or cast iron. An electric heating element does not imply the possibility of dousing hot stones with water. If the owners like a bath with high humidity, they should give preference to a traditional stone oven.
Room finishing options
Experts recommend not to use too much wood when decorating the interior of the bath. The steam room looks original, in which the lining is combined with tiles, plexiglass, natural stone. If you wish, you can seek the help of a professional designer. He will develop an original interior design. It will be pleasant for all visitors to be in such a room.
Must be tasteful. You should also pay attention to the choice of fixtures. There should be enough light in the steam room. Plafonds can be made of natural wood or other heat-resistant materials.
It is very important to provide a ventilation hole inside the bath. Airing will avoid the appearance of dampness, pathogens. However, making a ventilation window inside the steam room is useless. It is best to equip it in a dressing room or washing room. The steam room is ventilated when the door is opened.
After considering the technology, how the floor in the steam room is arranged, the interior decoration and decoration takes place, each owner of a country house will be able to independently equip the bath correctly.
Foreword
The construction of the floor in the steam room is a very important stage in the construction of the sauna. The floor must be adapted to the elevated temperature and humidity. Anyone can make the floor in the bath with their own hands - we'll tell you how.
Choice of bath floor design
Compared to living spaces, bath floors require a special approach. Under the influence of high heat and constant humidity, the structural elements of the wooden floor are subject to decay. Therefore, it is very important to correctly approach the choice of the type of underground structure. Thinking about how to make the floor in the bath is much better at the design stage of the building itself.
In bath construction, the most common are floor concrete or. The main task in the arrangement of the floor is the removal of water, which constantly flows during the adoption of bath procedures. Depending on the method of drainage, the wooden floor in the bath can be made leaky or non-leaking.
As for the flowing type of floor, such a structure is an inexpensive option. Such a design is quite easy to make. In order to equip a good drainage system, it is required to lay boards on the logs. Such flooring must necessarily have slots to ensure flow directly to the ground.
To collect water in the underground baths, a drainage pit is built. Therefore, sewerage in this case is not required. Due to the fact that the floor covering is slotted, the floor insulation is not done. Therefore, a do-it-yourself bath with this type of floor is only suitable for use during the warm season.
As for the non-leaking floor, this type is much more difficult to construct than the first option. This design is made from several rows of boards. A draft floor is made from the first row, which involves attaching the boards to the bottom of the log. Uneven second-rate boards may be suitable for this purpose.
The second row is laid directly on the logs. This is required without gaps, so for convenience, you can use boards with tenon grooves. Experts recommend using larch boards at this stage. It is also possible to pay attention to pine wood. Among coniferous trees, fir is well suited for baths. In the inter-row space, as a rule, heat-insulating materials are laid.
Finishing flooring is required to be done at a slight slope in the direction of water collection. This will help drain the waste into the sewer or into the septic tank. It is also necessary to connect the siphon to the previously made hole at the bottom of the wooden base. With the help of a tray that is located along the entire length of the floor, you can get rid of additional holes. The tray must be placed at an angle towards the point of collection of contaminated effluents.
Secrets of arranging a wooden floor in a bath
Among the main advantages of wooden flooring is the environmental friendliness of the material. With such a floor, the bath will look very solid. Compared with other types of flooring - the use of wood will be significantly cheaper. The main advantages of a wooden bath floor include, among other things, the high speed of installation.
Before installing the logs, it is necessary to build support chairs. They can be made both from brick and from monolithic reinforced concrete. When using the first option, you will need to build a concrete pad under each support.
For support chairs, a hole is usually made 40–50 cm deep. After that, it is necessary to make a pillow, which will require a layer of sand of about 10 cm. Then crushed stone is poured 15 cm in. All this must be carefully compacted. Upon completion, a framework is created from reinforcement, after which concrete is poured. Be sure to take into account that the supports are at the same level and rise 10–20 cm above the ground. The poured concrete must be allowed to brew to acquire strength. Therefore, the following actions are required to be performed a week after pouring the concrete mixture.
When the strength of the supporting chairs is gained, you can proceed to their waterproofing. The first step is to apply liquid bitumen. After that, it is desirable to lay the roofing material.
The next step in creating a wooden flooring in the bath with your own hands is laying the log. This process depends on the type of floor structure. For example, for a non-leaking floor, it is required to organize the slope of the flooring by 10 degrees. For this purpose, cuts are created in the bars. They need to be done more when approaching the waste pit. In the case of using a leaking floor, laying the logs is required at the same level.
Upon completion of this process, floor boards are laid. This stage also differs depending on the floor construction. In the case of a non-leaking floor, tongue-and-groove bars are used. The work itself is carried out in three stages - the creation of a subfloor, thermal and waterproofing, laying the final floor.
In leaking floors, cut boards are used. They should be laid from each other at a distance of 5 mm. Such cracks will make it possible to drain water from the floor surface. Be sure to make a technological gap of 2 cm near the walls.
The construction of a leak-proof floor - the little things you need to know
The design of the floor resembles a layered cake. As mentioned above, a subfloor is required to apply the thermal insulation layer. Any boards, including waste, are used for it. It is important to treat the wood with antiseptic materials and clean it from the bark. You also need to pay attention to the thickness of the boards, they should not be thinner than 20–25 mm.
To carry out thermal insulation work, it is required to lay a waterproofing membrane on the subfloor. This material should extend 20–30 cm onto the wall. All logs must be covered with a continuous layer of such a membrane. You can attach it with a stapler. Fastening should be done to the side of the lag in 10–15 cm increments. If the size of the film is not enough, then the new layer will need to overlap the previous one by 20–30 cm. Two layers of the membrane can be joined together using self-adhesive tape.
Next, you can start laying the thermal insulation material. It is recommended to make a small gap (no more than 1-2 cm) between the top layer of the floor and the insulation. Some experts advise when using basalt wool to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of it.
Now you can start creating the finished floor. To do this, first of all, a rail 2 cm thick is attached along the wall. In this case, it is advisable to use wood screws. Such slats are necessary to create support floor boards.
The bars begin to be laid from the wall. Their fastening to the logs is carried out with the help of self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be drowned. Thanks to the spikes in the boards, they are attached quite easily. To do this, you need to start each into the groove of the previous board. Therefore, the spike of the first plank should be directed towards the wall. Floor boards must be laid in such a way that water flows across the beams.
Concrete floor in the bath - what you need to know
Creating such a floor covering with your own hands is carried out in several stages. The first step is to compact the soil base. It is required to make a sand and gravel pillow. Most often, a layer of 15–20 cm is made. They begin to make a slope towards the pit even at the stage of soil compaction.
Before pouring the first layer of concrete, it is necessary to build a pit, from which the sewer pipe must go into the sewer. In the case of drainage into the ground in the bath, it is necessary to make vents. Asbestos pipes can be used for this. Such holes are made to remove unpleasant odors from the bathhouse. When drains are discharged into the sewer through a pipe, its receiving edge must be provided with a shutter.
Next, concrete is poured into 5 cm. After the mixture has hardened, expanded clay is poured in or felt is laid. Be sure to do waterproofing. On top of the insulation, another reinforced layer of concrete is poured. After this stage, it is recommended to use leveling compounds. Now you can start laying the flooring.
The concrete floor in the bath is very cold. Therefore, you need to make it warm. To do this, you can implement an electric or water heated floor. It is better to lay a moisture-resistant wooden coating on top of the concrete. Due to this, the floor surface will always be warm and comfortable for the feet.