Stairs made of monolithic concrete: the stages of creation in a detailed and intelligible instruction. Monolithic concrete stairs

Concrete stairs are widely used not only in common areas of apartment buildings, but also in private houses, cottages and apartments.

Reinforced concrete stairs in a house or apartment will suit almost any interior due to the wide possibilities for finishing such stairs. Stairs made of concrete are very durable, have high wear resistance. Of course, these conditions are feasible with the right design and correct calculations, not only the durability of the future staircase depends on these parameters, but also the safety of the people who will use it. You will find all the details of building a concrete staircase in this article.

Types of monolithic stairs

Monolithic stairs are divided according to the type of structures and shape. There are the following options for concrete stairs:

• screw;
• direct march;
• rotary.

In the manufacture of concrete stairs, the simplest design is a straight staircase, but it is not always convenient to use. In the case of a staircase in a small room, to save space, they often use either a multi-flight staircase with winders or a turntable, or a spiral staircase.

When designing, and subsequently during construction, it is necessary to provide for the release of reinforcement at the points of contact with the stairs. This is necessary in order to connect the metal structure of the stairs with the elements of the house, for greater rigidity.

Monolithic stairs are the most versatile, they are resistant to moisture and temperature changes, so they can be used not only as interfloor stairs. From the monolith, for example, a staircase to the basement or an entrance staircase to the house is built.

Straight single flight staircase

This type of stairs is very common. A single-flight staircase is built in houses with low ceilings, turning stairs are more often built in houses with high ceilings.

Based on the calculation that the comfortable span length is not more than 15 steps, we find that in rooms with high ceilings it is more correct to use stairs with winders or turntables. The use of a straight ladder in this case will lead to an increase in the number of steps and discomfort when using it.

Benefits of a straight ladder:

• ease of installation, in comparison with stairs of other forms;
• price;
• following the recommendations of our site, you can easily build such a staircase.

Spiral staircase

Such a staircase made of reinforced concrete will fit beautifully into the interior of any home.

Advantages:

• placing the stairs on an area of ​​​​1.5 m 2 is a huge plus, especially in small houses;
• Unusual, elegant shape of the stairs will decorate any interior.

Spiral filling stairs also have a number of installation difficulties:

• difficult installation, regardless of the type of construction chosen, it is necessary to manufacture special-shaped panels for formwork;
• difficulty in moving up the stairs due to the different width of the step along the entire length;
• difficulties in lifting and lowering bulky objects, the problem is solved by increasing the diameter of the stairs.

Turning stairs

They are used in various cases - in houses with high ceilings, to maintain the optimal angle of elevation and the length of the march, they are also widely used in the construction of apartment buildings. Let's highlight two common options:

• with a turn of 90 degrees (L-shaped);
• with a rotation of 180 degrees (U-shaped).

As a turn, winder steps or a turntable are used. A ladder with winder steps, in its design features, occupies a smaller area compared to a turntable.

Construction types

All concrete stairs are divided into:

• monolithic stairs made of concrete - manufacturing is carried out directly at the installation site by pouring a concrete solution into a pre-prepared formwork;
• prefabricated - are reinforced concrete blocks, pre-prepared at factories according to a standard template.

All types of stairs (straight, rotary and spiral) can be both monolithic and prefabricated, but in addition they are also divided according to the type of construction. The main structures are:

• on bowstrings;
• on stringers;
• console;
• modular.

We will analyze each of them in detail, so that you can better understand which type of design is right for you.

On a string

The design is a staircase, from the side of which no steps will be visible. The steps are located between the elements of the concrete structure.

The design can be either with closed steps,

On the kosour

The difference between this design and the previous one is that the steps are open from the sides and the staircase has a zigzag appearance.

In addition, the designs are distinguished by the location of the stringer:

• Monokosour - can be located both in the center of the stairs, and with an offset to either side.

• Kosour - outwardly it looks exactly, as well as stairs on stringers made of other materials. In this design, stringers are made of concrete, and the steps themselves can be made of concrete or other material.

• The staircase is a monolithic stringer.

Modular

Modular structures include prefabricated reinforced concrete stairs. The most common among modular concrete structures are stairs in apartment buildings. In such buildings, multi-flight stairs with turntables are used.

Design and requirements for monolithic reinforced concrete stairs

When designing, it is important to remember that each staircase has its own characteristics for calculating parameters based on the shape of the staircase and its design. You can use the detailed calculation of all the necessary parameters in the article on the calculation of stairs, as well as a construction calculator for each type.

Based on SNiP, we highlight the main parameters that must be taken into account when designing a concrete staircase:

• number of steps - the calculation is carried out relative to the length of the span to the height of the step;
• tread width - according to the standards for convenient use of the stairs, it is necessary that the foot can fully fit on the tread;
• step height - varies depending on the angle of inclination of the stairs, a comfortable height is about 160–180 mm;
• step length - corresponds to the width of the march, for a quiet movement in both directions of two people, as well as for lifting bulky objects, a march width of about 1200 mm is sufficient;
• ceiling opening - the distance from the steps to the edge of the opening must be at least 200 cm;
• railing height - averages 90 - 110 cm;
• the length of the kosour or bowstring is calculated using the mathematical formula of Pythagoras. (stringer length) 2 = (stringer height) 2 + (march length) 2;

• the optimal angle of inclination for stairs in residential premises is from 24 to 37 °, depending on this it will be possible to determine the height of the riser and the width of the step;

• for turning stairs, it is necessary to calculate additional supporting posts and a turntable or winder steps.

These parameters are applicable to single-flight and multi-flight stairs, in the case of spiral staircases there are slight differences:

• It is necessary to determine the diameter of the stairs, it depends on the length of the step and the diameter of the central column of the support: 2 * (length of the step) + (diameter of the central column).
• Special parameters also go to the shape and size of the step. Due to the fact that the step tapers towards the anchorage support, it is necessary to adhere to the following parameters: at the narrowest point, the width should be at least 10 cm, in the central part of the rise - at least 20 cm, at the widest part - no more than 40 cm.

In addition to the above parameters required for the construction of stairs, it is important to remember that concrete stairs have a number of additional parameters.

One of these conditions is the reinforcement of the concrete stairs. Reinforcement is a kind of skeleton of a staircase that strengthens and supports it. When designing, it is necessary to separately draw a reinforcement scheme, it must fully follow the contour of the future staircase, it is also important for the necessary strength of the entire structure.

Particular attention is also required to be paid to the quality of the concrete mix, the strength of the future staircase also depends on it. To properly prepare the concrete mixture, you can rely on the table that shows the ratios for obtaining 1m 3 of concrete, or you can use the calculator for.

• Wooden steps on a concrete staircase (insert link) - in this case, wooden treads or treads with risers are installed, and the rest of the stairs remain concrete. It must be carefully sanded, puttied and painted or tiled.

A staircase is a complex building structure, which must be distinguished by high reliability, safety, durability, aesthetics and comfort. All of these standards correspond to a staircase made of concrete. It is better to entrust the manufacture of concrete stairs to professionals. When carrying out work, you need to make the right calculations, create a unique project and follow all the steps of the step-by-step instructions.

Such a staircase is often installed in capital or street buildings made of concrete and brick, its service life is more than 50 years, and subsequent cosmetic repairs update the design and extend its service life up to 100 years.

Benefits of concrete stairs

Compared to a wooden structure, the laying of a concrete staircase is carried out during the construction of a private house. This is one of the details of the object, which enhances the structural strength. Other benefits of the building include:

• reliability, durability, long service life;
• resistance to humidity, minimal risk of fire;
• the possibility of laying together with the building, which ensures savings;
• use of corrosion-resistant steel reinforcement;
• the possibility of finishing with any building material;
• resistance to negative external factors, enhanced operation.

Selecting the type of stairs

Before starting construction work, you should decide on the type of construction, the shape of the stairs, and select suitable high-quality building materials. You should not save much on the purchase of raw materials, since its quality can greatly affect the reliability and durability of the finished product. The stairs cannot be used immediately after pouring the steps, as the curing of concrete lasts up to 4 weeks. Only then can the formwork be removed. You also need to decide in advance on the location of the structure, the method of opening the doors.

By design, monolithic stairs are divided into straight (one- and two-flight), spiral (or spiral). Screw versions with winder steps have an aesthetic appearance, they are more in demand among consumers, but require radial formwork, so they are most often made to order.

An elementary option is a direct interfloor staircase with one march, located between two walls. In this case, there will be no end parts of the structure, and the formwork is fastened to the walls. It is more difficult to make a semicircular or monolithic structure based on one wall. To design a free end, you need to add one side part to the structure. You can choose a marching system, where there are no supports on the walls (the lower and upper floors serve as the bearing elements), the formwork is assembled with side elements.

But there is not always enough space to build a one-march version, so preference is given to a two-march version with running steps or platforms between marches.

Also, concrete stairs are monolithic, combined, prefabricated from factory-made marches and type-setting.

The first type is performed on site using the technology of pouring concrete mortar into the formwork, and can be installed anywhere (on the porch, street or basement).

The classic version of a completely monolithic design

The second option is a metal structure of complex shape (framework) with concrete steps. Each step is cast using formwork and reinforcing mesh, and marble chips and crushed granite are used as building materials. The dried surface is polished.

Prefabricated marches of factory production are used mainly in apartment buildings, however, if desired and with a small crane, this option can also take place. The main advantage is the price, the disadvantage is the limited standard sizes.

Type-setting types consist of a concrete beam (kosour) and individual steps, which are rectangular, triangular, corner and with a groove. Reinforced concrete types are factory-made according to specified dimensions and have a standard shape.

Stacked steps on steel stringers

Stair calculation

Before starting construction work, you need to measure the space, make a diagram, drawing or project of the planned structure with a preliminary calculation of all elements and an indication of the required dimensions. The drawing is developed with a reflection of the design parameters, the number of steps, height and width. As a rule, the height of the steps is 15-18 cm, and the minimum span is 80-90 cm. You also need to take into account the thickness of the finishing material, know the building codes, perform the work in stages, do not forget about the presence of fences and embedded elements.

Climb angle

The first parameter is the angle of inclination (rise), the value of which affects the length and height of the structure. So, with an equal height, a product with an angle of inclination of 25 ° will be longer than analogues with indicators of 35 ° and 45 °.
For the construction of a staircase with an angle of 45 degrees (projection of a span of 3 meters), 2.35 times less building materials will be spent than for a product with an angle of 25 ° (projection of a span of 6.4 m).

Optimum slope range 24 - 37 degrees

In accordance with the manual, you need to choose the angle of rise based on the appropriate size of the march, the complexity of the structure and its comfort.

Step sizes

Having decided on the angle of inclination and height, the work of designing concrete stairs includes breaking them down into steps. The optimal step size for calculating the width is 27-30 cm, the height is 16-20 cm. If you make higher steps, then it will be more difficult for both the elderly and people who are used to the standard step to move along them. Very low steps less than 15 cm will also be inconvenient for an adult, but for children this is the best option.

You can select the parameters of the steps using the formula: 2H + L \u003d 60-64 cm, where H is the riser (step height), L is the tread (width). For the calculation, you can take the above indicators: 2 * 18 + 30 \u003d 66 cm.

Ladder width

As a rule, the width of the stairs in a country house depends on the free area or the space between the walls where it will be placed. It should not be narrower than 80 cm, since when climbing to the second floor along a narrow staircase (or descending from it), a person will feel like in a tunnel. It will also be inconvenient to carry any items. Therefore, the optimal size will be 90-120 cm.

It is imperative to build a safe and secure fence, especially when the elderly and children live in the house. If the fence is located on the steps, it will slightly reduce the effective width of the march, keep this in mind when calculating.

Online calculator for calculation

For your convenience, you can make all the calculations using a convenient.

Formwork assembly

After performing the calculations, you need to independently build the formwork. The following materials will be required for construction:

• moisture-resistant plywood 1.2-1.8 cm thick, edged board with a thickness of 3 cm for the bottom of the formwork, flanging and risers;
• sheets of moisture-resistant plywood (0.6-0.9 cm each) for the manufacture of curved zones;
• support bars 10x10 cm or boards 15-17 cm wide, 5 cm thick for props;
• bars 10x10 cm for mounting boards or plywood sheets;
• metal corners;
• fasteners (wood screws) 3.5 mm;
• concrete, trowel for leveling the mortar, grater, device for smoothing the edges of concrete structures.

In order for the concrete surface to remain smooth after hardening, it is necessary to grind the wooden formwork parts in contact with the mortar. When using smooth plywood, no leveling procedures are required.

1 - beam for fixing formwork elements; 2 - tightening bar; 3 - winder formwork; 4 - end formwork.

The formwork must be assembled with the following steps:

• the lower part of large boards and plywood sheets is exposed. They are tightly fastened together with bars from the outside. The bottom of the structure is supported by beams or boards, while the step of the supports must correspond to the step of the steps. Fix the parts with self-tapping screws, which are convenient to unscrew during dismantling;
• on the sides they put a flanging from an edged board or plywood, reinforcing it from the outside with boards;
• mount the riser bars to the flanging or wall with metal corners;
• joints in parts are sealed with a solution of cement and sand or leveled with a planer, grinder.

Layout of the formwork elements

The thicker the bars, the higher the structural strength. The weight of the reinforced concrete structure will be large, which must be taken into account during the construction process. You can add additional rigidity with transverse bars.

Reinforcement

For a small staircase in a cottage, reinforcement can be made with a mesh, which is connected from reinforcement measuring 1-1.2 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm (the mesh size will be 15x20 cm). The rods are connected by wire.

Large products must be made from a reinforcing cage, including several meshes mounted by vertical rods or by welding. The distance between the grids is 2-3 cm.

The frame is the skeleton of the structure where the hardened concrete solution will be fixed, so its horizontal rods must be fixed in the wall, in pre-drilled holes. The mesh or frame is laid in the lower area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe formwork 2-3 centimeters from the bottom (you can raise the reinforcement using stands, bricks or stones). In the area where the railing is located, you need to put corks or metal plates.

Pouring concrete

During concreting, a concrete grade of at least M200 (from B15 class) is used. The solution is kneaded in a concrete mixer or ordered from RBU, must contain the following components: 10 parts of cement, 30 parts of crushed stone with a fraction of 10-20 mm, 20 parts of sand and 7 parts of water. If the composition is dense, then you can add 3 parts of water.

Now you need to fill in the composition correctly:

• the lower steps are performed first;
• the solution is rammed to give strength and density. To do this, you can use reinforcement, which pierces concrete in several areas. professionals recommend using a more reliable method - a construction vibrator that squeezes concrete through the formwork;
• giving the correct shape to the steps, smoothing with a trowel;
• pouring the remaining elements and the porch;
• covering the solution with a film to protect against cracks and early hardening. You can also regularly moisten the outer surface of the flooded area with water.

Formwork removal

Concrete gains strength within 4 weeks. After 7 days, you need to remove the boards from the steps and sides. The released surfaces are leveled with a grinder or grinder with a concrete wheel. After 21 days, the retaining bars with the lower area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure are removed. And only on the 28th day you can completely remove the rest of the formwork.

Finish lining

A do-it-yourself concrete staircase can have different finishes: wood, laminate, tile, carpet, acrylic stone or porcelain stoneware. Laying of any material must be carried out on a flat surface. After dismantling the formwork, irregularities may remain on the site, which are recommended to be removed by grinding and plastering. The end parts are usually finished with plaster and covered with paint. After that, the steps are covered with one of the materials.

Surface cladding can be done with tiles, artificial or natural stone with a rough surface. The material is laid on a cement mortar or tile adhesive. Using the same technology, mosaics are laid, making original compositions from small elements.

Photo-instruction for the installation of clinker steps

Finishing can be done with wood panels resistant to abrasion. For this, larch and exotic species that have undergone antiseptic treatment are selected.

Installation of larch wood cladding

An excellent treatment option is laminate, which is resistant to abrasion, easy to install and durable.

If children or elderly people live in the house, then you can choose carpet, available in different colors.

The final step is carpeting

To save the steps, you can simply paint them with high-quality paint for concrete.

Coloring - cheap, but in its own way an interesting option

In any case, the appearance of the stairs is associated with the taste preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.

Modern private houses, with rare exceptions, are built in two or three floors. According to this format, a private house is equipped with two or three staircases - an entrance staircase and one or two interfloor structures.

The best, simplest, inexpensive and at the same time durable option is a concrete staircase, which you can make on your own without involving expensive hired labor.

Construction stages

In general, the work on the construction of a concrete staircase consists of the following main steps:

• Determining the type of stairs: single-flight, two-flight, spiral.
• Calculation of the structure: the number and dimensions of the steps, the width and length of the structure.
• Manufacture and assembly of formwork.
• Installation of the reinforcing belt.
• Pouring concrete.
• Formwork dismantling.
• Finishing concrete stairs with wood, artistic forging, ceramic tiles, mosaics or other available materials.

A two-flight and a spiral staircase made of concrete is a rather difficult project to implement with your own hands. Flights of two mid-flight stairs are erected at an angle of 90 degrees, with an intermediate platform, winder steps and other features.

A spiral staircase requires a complex special calculation of the spiral line and the subsequent manufacture and proper installation of curved formwork. Therefore, it is better to trust the construction of these types of stairs to experienced professional builders. Within the framework of this article, an option will be considered - a single-flight concrete staircase to the second floor, which you can make with your own hands without experience and special education.

Calculation of the design of a single-flight staircase made of concrete

The angle of inclination of the march and the dimensions of the steps should be determined in each case, depending on the size of the room. Standard, frequently used tilt angles: 25, 35 and 45 degrees. The most preferred option is the angle of inclination of the march - 45 degrees. In this case, the stairs in the house made of concrete are not only safe and easy to climb, but also optimal in terms of the cost of building materials.

Having determined the height and angle of the march, determine the height and width of the steps. The best option: riser height 160-200 mm, tread width 270-300 mm. The width of the march is also taken individually in each case.

If the stairs are located between two walls, the width of the structure is taken to be the distance between the walls. If the march adjoins the wall on one side, and the other side "hangs" in the air, the minimum width of the structure is 800-900 millimeters.

It is highly desirable to create a drawing or sketch of a future staircase for the correct calculation and installation of formwork parts.

Important point! Taking this or that step height, do not forget about the possible finish, the thickness of which can significantly change this size. For example, wood trim will raise the height of the step by at least 20-25 millimeters.

Formwork for concrete stairs

Assembly and installation is a very important stage of construction, on which the durability of the stairs depends. Even a small oversight and hope for the Russian "maybe" can lead to the destruction of the formwork during pouring or hardening of concrete, with all the ensuing consequences. In general, the following materials will be required to assemble the formwork:

• Waterproof plywood 12-18 mm thick, or edged planed board 25-30 mm thick for boards to form risers, side and bottom parts of the structure.
• A beam of 100x100 millimeters for supporting the lower panels (bottom) of the formwork and connecting sheets of plywood or boards.
• Steel corner and wood screws with a diameter of 3.5-4.5 mm for assembling shields.

Formwork surfaces facing concrete must be perfectly smooth. There are several ways to get the desired result: sanding, upholstering with plastic wrap or using laminated plywood.

In general, formwork assembly technology consists of the following steps:

• Installation of the lower part, made of panels assembled from plywood sheets or boards. A combined option is possible: plywood + boards. The lower part is laid at the calculated angle of inclination on the retaining bars. The step and the number of bars coincides with the step and the number of steps. The formwork elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, and not with traditional nails. After the concrete has hardened, it will be much easier to disassemble the formwork assembled on self-tapping screws than the structure assembled on nails.
• The next step is the installation of the side part (if one side of the stairs is adjacent to the wall) or in two parts, if one side of the stairs is “hanging in the air”. The side parts are assembled from plywood or boards, and from the outside they are reinforced with a belt of timber.
• Formation of risers. In accordance with the estimated number and dimensions of the risers, they are formed with boards or plywood fixed to the side parts or the wall using steel corners.
• Testamentary stage of installation. To make it easier to finish the pouring stairs made of concrete with one or another material, all joints facing concrete should be carefully cleaned and smoothed with an angle grinder and putty with cement-sand mortar. The formwork is ready for the installation of the reinforcing belt.

Installation and knitting of a reinforcing belt

In order for a concrete staircase in a private house to be strong and durable, its design should be strengthened. In this case, monolithic durable concrete is obtained, which will last as long as the building of the house will stand.

A span of several steps can be reinforced with a mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters laid along the bottom of the formwork at a height of at least 20-30 mm from the surface of the formwork facing the concrete.

To set a gap of 20-30 mm, use pieces of brick or special plastic stands. The pitch of the longitudinal and transverse rods is taken such that cells of 50x50 millimeters are obtained. The fittings are tied together with soft steel or copper "knitting" wire with a diameter of 0.7 to 1 mm.

To reinforce large-scale stairs, several longitudinal and vertical reinforcing meshes are used, which must be attached to the wall in one way or another. For example, using drilled holes into which pins of the appropriate diameter are driven.

Pouring concrete stairs

For pouring the structure, heavy concrete grade M200 is used. Concrete is prepared either independently according to the following recipe - 1 kg of CEM I 32.5N PC (M400) cement, 2.8 kg of sifted washed quarry sand, 4.4 kg of crushed granite with a particle fraction of at least 10-20 mm, 10 milliliters of liquid soap (plasticizer), water 0.7 liters, or place an order for the finished material by contacting the nearest concrete plant. The first option has half the cost, and the second option is better in terms of the composition of the components and more efficient in terms of construction time. Filling steps:

• Fill the formwork with concrete starting from the lower steps. Initially, 2-3 steps are filled, after which the concrete is rammed with a uniform bayonet piece of reinforcement over the entire area of ​​the filled structure.
• With the help of a trowel and a spatula, they give the steps a final look - they smooth the plane of the treads, achieving horizontality.
• The entire structure is poured, after which tamping and smoothing of the treads are carried out as in the previous case.
• The resulting structure is carefully covered with plastic wrap for 5-7 days. In hot weather, the film is moistened with water several times a day.

Formwork dismantling

This stage of construction should not be rushed. After 5-7 days, side panels and riser formwork are carefully removed. If the concrete is still very wet and “alive”, the dismantling work should be stopped and wait a few more days.

The best option is to wait from 20 to 28 days (if the ambient air temperature is between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius and above). This is the estimated period of time during which concrete gains 70-80% of brand strength.

Concrete staircase finishing

immediately after the formwork is removed, all surfaces of the stairs are carefully cleaned with angle grinders equipped with the appropriate tools: Baumesser Beton diamond cutters, Long concrete grinding diamond discs, BOSCH concrete diamond grinding discs and other similar tools.

Further, it all depends on the imagination and personal preferences of the developer. To finish the surface of the stairs, you can use: precious wood, porcelain stoneware, ceramic floor tiles, or natural stone. The side surface and bottom can simply be plastered and coated with water-based paint.

Readers of the article may be interested in the question of how the entrance staircase to the concrete house is built. Outdoor staircase made of concrete is calculated and built , almost similar to the stairs to the second floor inside the house. The difference between the technology lies in the absence of the lower support of the span and the need to build a foundation, the depth corresponding to the depth of the foundation of the house.

Now, knowing how to make a concrete staircase with your own hands, you can calculate it, purchase the necessary building materials and build this structure without involving expensive hired labor of specialists.

Monolithic concrete staircase - the strongest and most durable. Therefore, it is she who is most often present in capital concrete or brick houses with several floors. The term of "life" of such a concrete structure without repair is calculated in decades. Timely repair can make it almost eternal. At the same time, despite the monumentality, it is not at all difficult to make a concrete staircase on your own. Consider all the steps that need to be taken to build a monolithic concrete staircase, step by step.

If you want to understand in more detail, then read on.

Stage #1. Selecting the type of stairs

First you need to choose the shape and type of staircase design. By design, all monolithic concrete stairs can be divided into straight (one-flight and two-flight) and spiral (spiral).

The simplest option is a straight single-flight staircase inscribed between two walls. In this case, the end parts of the stairs, as such, are absent and the formwork elements are attached directly to the walls.

It is more difficult to build a mid-flight staircase based on only one wall. To decorate the free end of such a staircase, one side part is added to the formwork structure.

There are mid-flight stairs without supports on the walls, that is, they rely only on two points - the upper and lower floors. To build such a staircase, it is necessary to assemble the formwork with two side parts.

Despite the simplicity of the device, it is not always possible to build a single-flight staircase of the required height in an ordinary house. Or rather, there is not enough space to install it. Then they build a two-flight staircase, the flights of which are located at the required angle between themselves (traditionally 90 °). Such structures come with inter-march platforms or winder steps.

However, the most decorative (but also difficult to implement!) Among the monolithic stairs are spiral structures. The difficulty lies in the manufacture of formwork of irregular shape, which can form a curved staircase. For such formwork, a lot of piece-made curvilinear and bent panels are used. Also time-consuming is the knitting of an irregularly shaped frame.

Spiral staircases can rest on one wall or be located at a distance from the walls, that is, they can have two side faces of their own.

Thus, for a home craftsman who does not want to use the services of professionals, it is better to prefer a straight single-flight staircase for construction.

Stage #2. Design calculation

Before starting the construction of a staircase, it is necessary to carry out a preliminary calculation of all its elements. And develop a drawing indicating the dimensions of the structure, the number of steps, their width and height.

Climb angle

The first important characteristic is the angle of elevation (tilt), on which the height and length of the stairs depend. Given the same height, a 25° staircase will always be longer than a 35° or 45° staircase. For example, a staircase with an angle of 25 ° and a height of 3 m forms a span projection of 6.4 m. A ladder of the same height with an angle of 35 ° - a projection of a span of 4.3 m. A staircase with an angle of 45 ° - a projection of a span of 3 m.

In other words, to build a staircase with a span angle of 25°, it is necessary to spend 2.35 times more materials than when building a staircase with an angle of 45° (with the same height of both structures).

Step sizes

Having chosen the height and angle of inclination of the stairs, it is necessary to break the structure into steps. Optimal dimensions: step height - 16-20 cm, width - 27-30 cm.

If you make steps higher than 22 cm, then it will be difficult to climb them, especially for older people. People accustomed to the traditional tread pattern will stumble, not bringing the sole of the shoe to the next step when climbing. Falling down is possible. Too low steps (below 15-14 cm) are also uncomfortable. According to them, an adult will "mince". Although they are safer for older people. They are also suitable for children.

As for the width of the steps, it is unreasonable to make them less than 25 cm. The foot will slip when stepping onto the tread. A step width greater than 31-32 cm will force a person to lengthen their stride in order to get to the next step.

When choosing the size of a step, you can use the formula: 2H + L \u003d 60-64 cm. In this case, H is the height of the step (riser), L is the width of the step (tread). For example, the above figures for optimal sizes fit perfectly into the calculations: 2 x 16 cm + 30 cm = 62 cm.

Ladder width

The width of the stairs usually depends either on the distance between the walls where it needs to be entered, or on the availability of free space. It is undesirable to choose a width of less than 80 cm. This is too narrow a staircase, going up (down) on which a person will feel like walking through a tunnel. In addition, it is inconvenient (or impossible) to carry furniture along such a ladder. The optimal width is more than 0.9 m.

The calculations of the design of the stairs are detailed in the video:

Stage #3. Formwork assembly

After all the calculations, it's time to create the future outlines of the stairs. That is, to build a formwork into which concrete will be poured in the future.

Formwork assembly is the most difficult stage in the construction of stairs. It requires scrupulous, accurate work with precise alignment of all pre-calculated dimensions of the structure. Any oversight at this stage can lead to the failure of the entire construction project (the shape of the structure will be violated, its dimensions, the surface will turn out to be uncomfortable for subsequent finishing).

For the construction of formwork you will need:

• waterproof plywood (thickness 12-18 mm) or edged board (thickness not less than 30 mm) - for the lower part of the formwork (bottom), flanging and risers;
• waterproof plywood (thickness 6.5-9 mm) - for curved sections (if necessary);
• boards (thickness 50 mm, width 150-170 mm) or support bars 100x100 mm - for props;
• bars 100x100 mm - for connecting sheets of plywood or boards to each other;
• metal corners, wood screws (3.5 mm) - for fastening.

Wooden formwork elements in contact with concrete must be absolutely smooth. Then the concrete surface after hardening will turn out to be smooth, practically not in need of finishing. Therefore, the sides of the boards that are planned to be placed on the inside of the formwork must first be sanded. If smooth plywood is used, then no preliminary leveling actions are necessary.

Formwork is assembled as follows:

1. Expose the lower part of the formwork, on which the entire mass of concrete will be held. To do this, you can use overall sheets of plywood or boards. They are tightly fastened to each other with the help of bars fixed on the outside of the formwork (you can use ready-made wooden panels). From below, the lower part of the formwork is supported by boards or support bars. The step of the props must match the step of the steps.

Formwork elements are usually fastened with self-tapping screws, not nails. The fact is that after the concrete has hardened, the formwork will have to be removed, which is easy to do by unscrewing the screws. It is more difficult to remove nails, so they try not to use them for formwork.

2. The side edges of the stairs are limited by flanging - plywood or edged board. The flanging is also reinforced with boards (bars) from the outside, since by itself it cannot withstand the pressure of concrete. The boards are securely fastened to the flanging, especially if they were set at an angle. At this stage, reinforcement of the structure is usually performed (see stage #4).

3. Install the boards (plywood) of the risers, fixing them to the flanging (or to the wall) using metal corners.

4. All joints of formwork elements (plywood, boards) are covered with cement-sand mortar or leveled with an angle grinder, planer. Such alignment of the formwork walls will allow, at the end of the work, to obtain a smooth, even surface of the concrete staircase. This will facilitate further work for finishers, that is, it will be possible to plaster and perform grinding work on an already finished concrete structure to a minimum.

Stage #4. Knitting and installation of reinforcing mesh or frame

If the staircase is small, then for reinforcement you can use a mesh connected from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Reinforcing rods are placed in increments of 15 and 20 cm to get a grid with a cell of 15 x 20 cm. The rods are connected to each other with a wire.

For a large staircase, a reinforcing cage is used. It consists of two or more grids interconnected by vertical rods. Between the grids leave a distance of 2-3 cm.

The reinforcing cage (mesh) is a kind of "skeleton" of the structure; the frozen concrete mass will be held on it. Therefore, the horizontal rods of the frame (mesh) are fixed in the wall for reliable connection with the future concrete staircase. To do this, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the wall and pins are driven in with a hammer.

The frame or mesh is laid on the lower part of the formwork at a distance of 2-3 cm from the bottom. To raise the reinforcement, you can use stones, bricks or special plastic stands-clamps.

Stage #5. Pouring concrete

For stairs use concrete grade not lower than M200 (class - not lower than B15). It is either kneaded independently using a concrete mixer, or ordered from RBU.

A very important rule: the concrete for the stairs must contain crushed stone with a size of at least 10-20 mm. Large crushed stone will help hold the concrete in the space of the steps. Smaller aggregate, on the contrary, will make the concrete mobile and ductile, which will lead to its leakage from the formwork steps.

Filling is performed according to the following scheme:

1. Start pouring from the lower steps. First, 2-3 lower steps are poured with concrete.

2. Compact concrete. Tampering helps to increase the density and strength of the composition, as it removes air pockets from its thickness. The easiest way to tamp: after pouring, the concrete is pierced with reinforcement in several places. However, this method is not very reliable. It should be remembered that 1% undercompaction of heavy concrete leads to a decrease in its strength by 5-7%! Therefore, professionals prefer to compact concrete not with reinforcement, but with a special mechanism - a construction vibrator.

With any type of ramming, part of the concrete will be squeezed out through the formwork. Extruded concrete is thrown up or down (where there is an insufficient amount of the mixture).

3. The steps are given their final shape by smoothing them with a trowel (trowel).

4. In the same way, all overlying steps are poured.

5. The poured concrete is covered with a film to prevent premature hardening and cracking. Instead of a film, you can use another method: periodically moisten the concrete that has not yet hardened by spraying it with water.

Stage #6. Formwork removal

The formwork is removed carefully, in several stages. First, after a few days (5-7 days), when the concrete mass hardens, the formwork is removed from the steps and the flanging. You need to act carefully. If the concrete is still wet, the formwork should never be removed. Otherwise, the surface of the stairs will be damaged (possibly cracking, chipping).

The steps freed from the formwork and the ends of the stairs are leveled with grinders. It is most convenient to use an ordinary grinder with a circle on concrete, which will make the surface of the stairs smooth and even.

Only after 21-28 days (depending on the weather and the speed of concrete hardening) can the retaining boards and the lower part of the formwork be removed. This is a very important moment. If the support is removed too early, there is a possibility of collapse and destruction of the entire concrete structure.

After the complete removal of the formwork, the lower part of the stairs is subjected to grinding by grinders.

Stage #7. Finishing

For a concrete staircase, there are a lot of different finishes:

• tile;
• laminate;
• wood;
• porcelain stoneware;
• acrylic stone;
• carpet.

However, all these materials, according to technology, must be laid on a flat surface. After removing the formwork on the concrete stairs (especially on the surface of the steps), minor irregularities can be observed: bumps, pits, chips. Therefore, before starting to lay the finish coating on the stairs, all its surfaces are ground and plastered.

Finishing the end parts of the structure usually consists of plastering and painting. Next, the steps are already being finished with one of the above floor materials.

Concrete is the most common building material from which stairs are made today.

Scheme of reinforcement of the site for a concrete staircase.

Stairs made of concrete are distinguished by their durability and strength. Also, this material allows you to create a variety of architectural models.

It is not surprising that the owners of private houses are increasingly turning to concrete as a material from which to make a staircase. The creation of concrete stairs has been further developed due to the fact that it is possible to create concrete stairs with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders. About how to make a staircase out of concrete and how to make steps out of concrete, we will burn with you further.

Characteristics of concrete structures

Concrete staircase structures have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other staircases built from other materials. These advantages attract those who have given their preference to concrete. Concrete structures have advantages in everything: in construction technology, in a constructive solution, in physical qualities, etc.

Let's take a look at these benefits:

Scheme of a concrete staircase on the ground: 1 - Concrete, 2 - Reinforcing mesh, 3 - Crushed stone rammed into the ground, 4 - Soil, 5 - Brick, 6 - Sand layer, 7 - Concrete preparation.

1. Concrete stairs are built during the construction of the building itself. This allows you to speed up the construction process, since the steps are used even at the stage of building construction.
2. Such structures are very durable, which allows us to talk about the long term of their operation.
3. Steps of concrete structures and their other elements are perfectly combined with design ideas. A concrete staircase can, if desired, be turned into a work of art.
4. The construction technology allows you to make both steps and the entire concrete structure with your own hands, without resorting to outside professional help.
5. The concrete structure considered here, in addition to its direct purpose, also has the function of an additional frame element, increasing the reliability and strength of the building.

All these advantages have allowed concrete stair structures to gain popularity among both industrial developers and ordinary citizens, who are increasingly building them with their own hands.

Preparation for construction

As in any business, in the construction of a concrete staircase, first of all, you need to draw up a plan of action. This plan includes all design actions, diagrams and drawings. Drawing up drawings must be verified and accurate. You do not need to hand over the building to a special commission, but the life and health of your own household depend on the quality of your work.

First of all, you will need to calculate such a parameter as the height of the step. Usually, a value of 17 cm is taken for this indicator. Next comes the depth of the step. It should be comfortable for the foot. Usually the shoe size 45 is taken for the template. The width of the flight of stairs must also be accurately calculated. This value should include the width of the step and the width of the railing. Elements such as the flight of stairs, the lower and upper thresholds, the length of the stairs and the slope angle are also calculated.

The final step in building a staircase with your own hands is its cleaning and leveling. After stripping, some time must pass before the final shrinkage of the concrete occurs, and the ladder can be used for its intended purpose.

You will need the following tools:

1. Concrete pump. This device will be needed for concrete supply.
2. Concrete mixer.
3. Shovels.
4. Templates.
5. Master OK
6. Formwork boards.
7. Waterproof plywood for formwork.
8. Metal rods for reinforcement.
9. Bundles of thin rods or wire.
10. Hammers and mallets.
11. Saw.

Construction works

Scheme of installation of concrete stairs.

Do-it-yourself staircase construction begins with the creation of formwork. It must be strong and rigid. Anyone who has ever made formwork knows how important this element is. The formwork is made according to stencils that were made in advance according to the drawings.

For formwork, boards are used to create the frame of the future staircase. This kind of frame is created for each step. Only the sides of the steps are fenced. Care must be taken to ensure that the mounted boards fit snugly against each other. It is necessary to avoid the appearance of cracks through which the concrete mixture can seep. To fully guarantee the tightness of the formwork, another layer of waterproof plywood is applied to the boards.

Further, the future steps and the threshold are reinforced with a reinforcing frame. You can make it with your own hands from steel reinforcement by welding. Such a frame gives an additional threshold of strength and creates the basis for the future concrete coating. Steel reinforcement is laid along the flight of stairs, at the bottom of future steps. Laying of rods occurs both along the march and across. In places where they cross, a connection is made by means of a wire.

Before concreting, do not forget about future railings. For them, make special holes in the formwork, which are filled with wooden plugs. The starting point should be the lower threshold of the stairs.

After all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed to the main operation. It is the final concreting of the staircase structure. This operation can be carried out both manually and with the help of a concrete pump. The latter option is more preferable. First, the upper threshold is poured, after which the pouring continues throughout the entire staircase structure from top to bottom.

Filling should be done only at a positive temperature. Otherwise, the concrete is heated. Filling is carried out at the same time for the entire flight of stairs. The starting point is the upper threshold of the stairs. After the concrete mixture has entered the formwork, it is compacted, cleaned and leveled by means of shovels and trowels.

After stripping, some time must pass before the final shrinkage of the concrete occurs and the ladder can be used for its intended purpose. To speed up this stage, it is recommended to cover the flooded stairs with plastic wrap.

How to make steps out of concrete: a guide

How to make stairs out of concrete? As in any business, in the construction of a concrete staircase, first of all, you need to draw up a plan of action.

A country house or cottage usually begins with a porch, to which a small ladder leads. How to fill the steps with concrete and do it right with minimal financial and time costs? To get a general idea after reading the material, you should watch a video that clearly demonstrates the process of step formation. Construction work is carried out in several stages.

Manufacturing technology of concrete porch

We calculate materials

Steel reinforcing bar for the construction of a concrete porch

The manufacture of stairs begins with calculations of the required amount of materials and drawing up drawings. At this stage, the number of steps of the stairs is determined based on the height of the platform from ground level. According to the requirements of SNiP 21-01-97 and GOST 9818, the difference between the support platforms should not exceed 220 mm, and its width should be at least 250 mm. Steps poured with concrete with one's own hands are heavy, and in order to avoid their subsidence, it is necessary to provide a foundation.

Having determined the dimensions of one step and their total number, we calculate the volumes of required building materials, such as:

1. cement brand 500;
2. sifted quarry sand;
3. crushed stone of fine and medium fraction;
4. steel reinforcing bar;
5. lumber: boards and timber for the manufacture of formwork.

Taking into account these data, the total construction price is set as the sum of the cost for all positions. The involvement of hired specialists will lead to an increase in the cost of the structure by about half.

Formwork filling with concrete mix

Site preparation for work

To answer the question "how to fill in the steps for your porch" you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of the operation. You should start with leveling and marking the site. To carry out land work with your own hands, you will need shovels and bayonet shovels, as well as a tape measure, pegs and a cord. When laying a rectangular porch base, it is imperative to check the diagonals.

On the marked area, soil is sampled to a depth of at least 250-300 mm and a sand cushion is poured. The layer is leveled and compacted by moistening and compacting with a special tool. A steel bar is used to reinforce the base of the porch and strengthen the steps formed by one's own hands. The strength-enhancing structure is welded or wire-knitted and installed before the concrete is poured into the stairs.

The presence of reinforcement increases the reliability of the structure

The next step is the manufacture and installation of formwork. High-quality pouring of steps with concrete, the price of which will be minimal, is possible only when all operations are performed by oneself. The formwork is made of edged boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more, for the connection of which nails and timber are used. The width of the formwork parts should be equal to the height of the steps, and the horizontality of the upper edges should be checked with a level. Boards are installed and held by hand, and then nailed to the frame.

Preparation of cement-sand mixture and concreting stairs

Do-it-yourself pouring of the steps of the porch is done with ready-made compounds, which are delivered by specially equipped vehicles. Another option for erecting a porch is the preparation of cement-sand mixtures using a concrete mixer or manually in a container suitable for these purposes. The pouring of steps with concrete is carried out starting from the lower step, in layers, with interruptions necessary for the composition to dry.

Formwork manufacturing process

Making your own mixes will reduce the cost of building a porch. The process is carried out as follows: sand is poured into the trough, into which crushed stone and cement are added. The composition is mixed manually with a shovel until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Then water is added to the mixture in small portions with constant stirring. The consistency of concrete should correspond to the density of sour cream.

How to fill in the porch steps and get a solid structure? First of all, you should choose the right ratio of components.

The method for determining the required number of concrete components is as follows. Crushed stone is poured into the bucket to the upper level, then water is poured along the edge. The volume of liquid will correspond to the amount of sand and cement to be added to the concrete.

When doing work on your own, the question arises - how to fill in the steps of a low porch and do it right. Despite the apparent complexity of this process, it is quite possible to perform it without the involvement of specialists, and after that - also make an aesthetic finish of the porch and show us a photo.

To get the basic skills of construction work and form an understanding of how to concrete the steps of the porch, the video in this article will be very helpful. Write to us what you got as a result, share your experience with us.

Everything is well written and clear and understandable, but in terms of preparing the solution, it somehow seems to me that they have complicated it. Although it is understandable, you will not please milestones. So, if you mix it yourself, you should carefully read the instructions of the cement manufacturer, usually placed on the back of the bag, the proportions may vary depending on the brand of cement and additives in it. Take for example 1 bag of Master Universal cement (CEM II / A-K (Sh-I) 42.5N, grade 500), then to get class B 20 concrete we need 55 liters. crushed stone, 90 sand and 30 water, and to obtain class B 25 concrete, you need to take 45 liters. rubble, 80 sand and 25 water. But if, again, we buy cement of a different brand (for example, Master PRO CEM I 42.5B, strength 500) from the same manufacturer, we will see that we need 70 liters to obtain class B 20 concrete. crushed stone, 110 sand and 30 water, and to obtain class B 25 concrete, you need to take 55 liters. rubble, 90 sand and 25 water. Hence the conclusion, in the production of concrete work, study the recommendations of the manufacturer and get the result that you expect to get and not overpay for it. Good work and excellent results.

Thank you very much for such an extensive and interesting answer 🙂 Indeed, cement brands are quite different, but here everyone has their own approach - and yours is very practical 🙂

How to pour steps for a concrete porch with your own hands (video)

It is told how to pour concrete steps on your own. How to properly prepare the surface and prepare the mixture. Walkthrough.

The porch is the most important component of the exterior of a country house. A beautifully executed entrance is a real decoration of the entire building, a detail that attracts attention and creates a sense of solidity. In this article, we will consider the simplest and most accessible method for everyone, with which you can build concrete steps for the porch with your own hands.

Advantages of concrete steps for a porch

Concrete mortar is just a great material for building steps. A staircase made of such a material, reinforced with reinforcement, can serve the owners for decades without repair (see also the article “Cesspool made of concrete rings at their summer cottage: practical recommendations for self-construction”).

A porch of this kind, regardless of whether ready-made concrete steps were used for the porch during its creation or not, has the following important characteristics:

• No noise. Such steps do not creak like wood and do not create a hum effect. The monolith absorbs all possible sounds;
• Not afraid of rust, rotting processes and insects;
• Not afraid of fires and high temperatures;
• Can be veneered with any finishing material. Thus, it is possible to hide the concrete accessory and design the structure as a wooden one, for example;
• Repair in the presence of any damage on such a product will be inexpensive;
• A porch made of concrete can be endowed with the most unimaginable shape and have any required size.

Technology for the construction of steps for arranging the porch of a building

Ready-made monolithic structure

The external attractiveness of the porch directly depends on the quality of all construction work and compliance with existing building codes and regulations (see also the article “Mosaic concrete for the manufacture of a beautiful floor with marble chips”).

Violation of technology during the construction of even such a seemingly insignificant structural element can result in the following defects:

• The formation of cracks on the walls associated with the porch;
• Peeling of the finishing decorative layer from the surface of the porch;
• Subsidence of the porch relative to the building itself.

Correcting such defects is difficult, and in some cases even impossible.

Advice. Following all the norms during the construction process will allow you to avoid the time and effort associated with the dismantling of a reinforced monolithic product and the construction of a new one, which can double such a parameter as the price of erecting a concrete porch.

In order to save your own forces and means, it is important to follow three basic rules:

• The depth of the foundations of the porch and the house are equal;
• The porch, even what is being built near the house, should be one with its foundation; Council. The connection of the foundations of the house and the porch is made by means of mutual reinforcement.
• You should not save on waterproofing the structure to avoid the cost of regular repairs. Tip. When erecting this element of the structure, one should not be too presumptuous and, subject to the lack of experience in the production of such work, one should still use the finished project.

  Materials and tools required for work

  For the construction of the porch, you will certainly need the following tools and materials:

  • Portland cement;
  • gravel-sand mixture;
  • Reinforcing bar with a diameter of 6.5 mm;
  • Wire for knitting fittings;
  • Perforator with a set of drills for concrete;
  • Special equipment with the help of which diamond drilling of holes in concrete can be carried out;
  • Vibrator for compaction of the solution;

  

  • Boards for the construction of formwork;
  • Bars as formwork racks;
  • Bulgarian - a tool with which reinforced concrete will be cut with diamond wheels;
  • Concrete mixer;
  • Electric saw for cutting boards and formwork bars;
  • Shovels of two types: shovel and bayonet;
  • Hammer with nails for the construction of formwork;
  • Wheelbarrow for moving the solution;
  • waterproofing material;
  • Tool for knitting reinforcing wire.

  

  Tool for knitting reinforcing corset

  

  Before starting work, the area for arranging the porch must be prepared:

  • The construction site must be cleared;
  • You should make markings under the foundation of the porch;
  • Digging a foundation pit;
  • Installation of wooden formwork for pouring the foundation;
  • Installation of fittings under the porch;

  Advice. To implement the method of mutual reinforcement, holes for reinforcement should be drilled in the foundation of the house.

  • The prepared trench is covered with concrete mortar;

  Advice. The solution is prepared from Portland cement and sand-gravel mixture in a ratio of 1/4. Water is added to the solution until a mass of the consistency of liquid porridge is obtained.

  • Using a vibrator for concrete, we compact the structure;

  

  Pouring the foundation under the porch

  • We cover the poured foundation with burlap and let it harden for 3 days;
  • We remove the formwork and cover the concrete with roofing material or cover it with molten tar.

  Construction of formwork for steps

  After the foundation is ready, it's time to think about the construction of the most concrete porch steps.

  Instructions for arranging the porch consists in the implementation of the following actions:

• First you need to deal with the existing drawing. If there is no drawing, you should calculate the number of steps depending on the height of the porch; Tip. The height of each step should not be more than 20 cm, and the width should not exceed 30 cm. The width of the porch should protrude 20-30 cm from each side of the front door.
• Next, we install the wooden formwork according to the drawing or the calculations made at the previous stage;
• The formwork for pouring a concrete monolithic porch must be a sealed product, so we line its bottom with an additional layer of roofing material;

  

  In the photo - formwork covered with roofing material

• In order to save on the amount of mortar, gravel or a sand-gravel mixture is poured into the formwork at an angle from the wall of the building;
• We install fittings. We do not forget to insert the ends of the reinforcing bars into the holes made at the preparatory stage in the foundation of the building; Advice. If it is planned to build a railing, then at this stage reinforcement should be made in such a way that the branches of the rods rise 4-5 cm above the level of the steps.
• We fill the created structure with concrete and use a vibrator to ram the solution to prevent the formation of voids in the monolithic structure;

  

  Formwork filled with mortar

• We leave the structure to harden for 3 days, after which we remove the formwork. Decorative porch steps

  

  Decorating the porch with cladding

  For finishing, concrete tiles for the steps of the porch, decorative or natural stone, or ceramic tiles can be used. The side walls can be decorated with bricks, foundation siding and other facade finishing materials suitable for the design of the building.

  

  One of the design options

  Concrete steps for a porch are an excellent, durable product that, with proper finishing, can please the owners of the building with its convenience and visual appeal for more than one year (read also the article “Slag concrete - everything you need to know about this type of material”).

  It is absolutely easy to build such a structure with your own hands, but in order for the final structure to be durable, you should take care in advance not only of using high-quality materials, but of observing building codes.

  You can learn more about what concrete steps are like by watching the video in this article.

  How to make steps for a porch of concrete in the country with your own hands

  
  How to make steps for a concrete porch in a country house with your own hands The porch is the most important component of the exterior of a country house. A beautifully executed entrance is a real

How to fill in the steps of the porch of monolithic concrete

A monolithic concrete porch is one of the most durable solutions for a country house. A wooden porch in a couple of years will begin to creak and require repair even with constant care, brickwork also begins to collapse over time.

The most durable option is the concrete base of the porch, which can then be finished with porcelain stoneware, clinker or natural stone to your own taste. Knowing how to properly fill the steps of the porch, you can provide him with great strength for many years.

Why choose a concrete porch

Do-it-yourself steps for the porch made of concrete can be made by any homeowner. Construction does not require special skills, tools or equipment; all that is needed is to prepare a concrete solution and build a formwork. This is just one of the many advantages for choosing a concrete porch:

• Design variety. A concrete porch can have almost any shape: it is not only a classic square or rectangle, but also a semicircle, semi-oval, polyhedron, etc. It can have a different number of steps, it will not be difficult to build a solid porch even for a house with a high door. You can choose a wide variety of facing materials to give it a custom look.
• Great strength. Hardened concrete is able to retain all its characteristics for many years, especially if you take care of its lining. It is able to withstand high humidity, temperature fluctuations and other weather vagaries.
• No noise. Unlike wooden steps, concrete steps will never creak or sag. In addition, they will remain completely flat for a long time, especially if you take care of a durable ceramic tile or natural stone lining.

Preparatory work: design and necessary calculations

How to make concrete steps for a porch? First of all, you need to calculate the number and location of future steps, the cost of material and the installation of formwork.

The width of the porch should be at least 15 cm more than the width of the front door, the length of the usual step is one and a half meters. This will be enough for the descending and ascending person to calmly disperse on the porch.

If it is planned to build a large platform in front of the house, the steps can be made wider. If small children or people with disabilities live in the house, you should think in advance about the location of the ramp.

The height of the step is on average 16-17 cm, and the width of the tread should be at least 26-30 cm, so that it is convenient to put your foot on it. The slope of the porch should not exceed 45 degrees, otherwise it will be difficult to climb, especially for older people. If there are more than three steps, the project must necessarily provide for the installation of metal railings with handrails and decorative overlays.

The height of the porch should correspond to the height of the basement of the house. There should be a few centimeters between it and the bottom of the door: during shrinkage, the height of the foundation may decrease slightly, and then the door will be difficult to open.

A minimum of 3 centimeters must be left even if the door is made of wood. Wood tends to swell, and the door may begin to cling to the porch platform.

Before you make steps for the porch of concrete, you need to prepare drawings on which all dimensions must be indicated. After that, you can proceed to the preparation of the concrete base and the construction of the porch.

Preparatory work and installation of formwork

The ideal solution is to include the porch in the project of the house, then it is built on the same foundation and becomes its full-fledged part. However, this happens very rarely: usually the owner then thinks about adding concrete steps, and then he has to solve the issue of attaching the porch to the main foundation and the basement of the house.

How to fill the steps of the porch? Preparatory work begins with clearing the area and creating a foundation pit for a solid base of the porch. A monolithic structure is heavy, so care must be taken that it has its own foundation with a high bearing capacity.

On a cleared site of the required size, the top layer of soil is removed and a foundation pit is dug up to a depth of 70 cm. A sandy compacted “cushion”, a reinforcing cage is laid in it, and a formwork is installed.

After that, the new foundation is poured with concrete. As a concrete solution, a mixture of frost-resistant Portland cement with sand and gravel is used, the proportion of cement and sand-gravel mixture is 1: 4.

Water is gradually added to the solution, and after mixing it turns into a liquid homogeneous mass. At least three days are allotted for the solution to dry, only after that you can proceed directly to the construction of steps.

Formwork installation and pouring steps

A waterproofing layer of roofing material is laid on the base, after which the formwork is installed.

It can be assembled from plywood, in some cases, durable boards are used for this.

The formwork is assembled according to the drawings: it should rise 30 cm above the porch.

If the porch is large, stiffening ribs are nailed to the sides of the formwork panels, in addition, it is necessary to ensure their stability after pouring the concrete mix, so they are provided with side supports.

Tip: The inside of the formwork must be lubricated so that concrete mortar does not stick to it. This will allow in the future to freely remove the formwork, separating it from the dried concrete. Its surface will be smooth, this will simplify the cladding work in the future.

Filling works are carried out in several stages:

1. The side parts of the formwork are installed, after which boards are attached to them for pouring steps. They are placed in such a way that the treads have a slight slope of up to 5 degrees. This will ensure a quick flow of water, and frost will not form on the steps in winter and autumn.
2. Stair reinforcement. With the help of wire, the reinforcing mesh is connected, in addition, vertical reinforcement is installed. The ends of the reinforcing bars should go into the holes drilled in the foundation of the house so that the porch and foundation are firmly connected to each other.
3. The concrete solution is poured. The work is carried out in layers: first, the first stage is poured, then it needs to be allowed to dry and the next part should be poured. So that there are no air cavities left, the filled solution is pierced with fittings or sticks, you can also use a special construction vibrator.

The final part of the work is the filling of the upper platform. The concrete is leveled with a slight slope: the water on the site should not stagnate.

• The porch must be allowed to dry completely. The larger it is, the longer this process will take. In order for the solution to dry evenly, it is necessary to moisten the top layer with water, otherwise it may crack in the sun.

When the concrete is completely dry, the formwork is dismantled, and you can proceed to the installation of railings and decorative cladding.

Installing a railing on a concrete porch

For a classic concrete porch fence, forged metal railings are used, they will provide reliable support and safety when moving up the stairs. Railings must be installed on a high porch, but they will be quite appropriate on a small porch.

The standard height for adults is 90 cm, and additional child rails can be added at a height of 40 cm. The width of the rail is about 7 cm, which is most convenient for the human palm.

Metal racks are installed on concrete steps using flanges or other fasteners; forged or welded gratings made of metal rods can be used as filling. Such products can be ordered ready-made in workshops, since working with metal on your own is quite difficult. Metal handrails are welded onto the racks, which are covered with overlays made of wood or plastic.

Decorative cladding of concrete steps

Ordinary concrete does not differ in design diversity, but it can and should be lined with one of the common finishing materials. Facing will increase the durability of the porch, as it will cover the concrete base of the steps from the negative effects of natural forces. In addition, it will allow you to give the porch a unique design variety, and it will look very nice.

What is the best way to decorate a porch? Several common options can be listed:

1. Ceramic tiles. Porcelain stoneware is a white clay with the addition of special mineral components.

After firing at a high temperature, it acquires a very high strength, so the lining will last a very long time. Thanks to the addition of special pigments, tiles can have a wide variety of colors.

The facing tiles are laid first on the top platform of the porch, then on the treads and risers, and then on the sides. For its laying, a tile adhesive composition is used, which is prepared from dry mixes in the required proportion. Laying tiles will allow you to get a smooth and beautiful coating.

You can find out detailed and extended information on the topic of the article from the book “Wooden Houses”, which reflects all stages of building a house, from laying the foundation to the installation of a roof. The price of the book = 77 rubles.

You may also be interested in other BOOKS on building wooden houses with your own hands.

Other publications.