So, having figured out how the chandelier should be arranged correctly, we take up its main lighting and at the same time decorative elements: a lampshade and a ceiling. Reflectors are technologically simpler; their manufacture and fastening to the supporting structure of the chandelier does not cause difficulties.
The Internet is full of pictures with really very beautiful homemade lamps. However, considering them Ask yourself: how do you replace a light bulb? The answer is not always found in the primary sources. Methods for fastening lighting elements in lamps that allow replacing the lamp without using a tool will be discussed in the next article, but the technological methods described later in this article are designed to ensure that the lampshade in this case either moves up or is removed down, or you can simply climb into it hand.
materials
In order of increasing complexity (and durability), do-it-yourself lampshades and ceiling lamps at home can be made from paper, plastics, threads, ready-made tubes of various kinds, twine or yarn, framed with a fabric cover and stained glass. The last 2 are quite complex, but with a skillful approach to work on lighting and decorative qualities, they can surpass expensive purchased ones.
It is easiest to make a paper lampshade: from materials other than paper, you will need threads and PVA glue, and from a tool - a sewing needle, scissors and, possibly, a sharp mounting knife. However, paper lampshades are fragile and therefore suitable mainly for chandeliers. But a damaged paper lampshade is easy to replace with a new one.
You can make a lamp out of paper a little stronger in various ways. The simplest is to collect a balloon-ball from paper strips, gluing them at the poles and among themselves, pos. 1 in fig. However, the design in this case is uniform: sufficient strength of the product is ensured only and only by its spherical shape.
Elements of paper lampshades
Another way is to strengthen the paper itself. It will require some additional material: copper enameled winding wire with a diameter of 0.25-0.4 mm or threads. In the first case, the lampshade will fit without additional hardening for a floor lamp, and in the second, for overhead decorative elements, you will need a solid supporting base, for example. from a plastic bottle. The paper for the lampshade is strengthened with wire as follows:
- On a sheet with a density of 90-140 g/sq. see deduce the contours of the details.
- With a finely sharpened pencil, or a mechanical one with a 0.6 mm rod, the stiffness grid lines are drawn. If the lampshade will be glued together from several solid or slightly cut sheets, the grid lines should form a seamless pattern.
- Apply a thin layer of PVA glue with a brush.
- When the glue dries to a tack, the veins are applied along the grid - stiffeners - from the wire.
- Lubricate the same PVA sheet with a density of 35-60 g / sq. cm, impose on the first and gently smooth with your fingers.
- A day later, the details are cut out with scissors, glued together and painted. In this way, even imitations of the wings of rare species of butterflies, pos. 2; in this case, Maak's swallowtail.
When using threads, both sheets are taken with a density of up to 60 g / sq. see Then, as said, you will need a carrier base, but it is possible to imitate even the texture of rose petals, pos. 3.
Note: a paper lampshade, durable "almost like a real one" can be made from papier-mâché. The technology, rather laborious, is described below, see lampshades for the kitchen.
Plastics
It is elementary to make a lampshade for a chandelier from disposable plastic cups fastened with a stapler, see fig. Its lighting qualities are very good, but the view is frankly utilitarian. Therefore, it makes sense to use such lampshades in rooms with rather high requirements for the quality of lighting, but not in front rooms. The radiation pattern (DN) of the glass lampshade forms a cardioid.
Lampshade made of plastic glasses
Lampshade made of plastic spoons
A fan beam with a wide opening, very soft light in the central spot and uniform illumination in the side zone, makes it possible to achieve a lamp with a lampshade-bump (or a pineapple?) from bitten plastic spoons based on a PET bottle with a cut bottom, see fig. Effective softening of light is achieved by the fact that the spoons work as translucent bowl-shaped reflectors. They are glued to the bottle and glued together with silicone glue, mounting or glue gun. Cyanoacrylate glue is also suitable, but it must be taken thick. Cheap "superglue" is very fluid, the streaks will spread everywhere and spoil the glossy surfaces of the spoons.
From bottles alone, you can also make good lampshades. For example, a sphere from their bottoms fastened with a stapler, like stopar cups (see the figure for a mini-master class) will give a cardioid pattern; however, in comparison with the "ustakanenny" noticeably distorted. But in the country or in the back rooms, a chandelier made of bottoms is quite useful.
Bottle bottom lampshade
Lampshade-hedgehog from plastic bottles
Romantic soft light, somewhat spotty, but within acceptable limits, will give a ceiling-ball from bottle "hedgehogs"; however, they are more like blooming sea anemones - sea anemones, see photo on the right. It’s not difficult to make the “hedgehogs” themselves: the bottoms are cut off from the bottles, the side walls are cut to the scar before narrowing into the neck, the strips are wrapped around the neck, glued with droplets of glue and fixed with threads or tape for reliability. However, to assemble the "hedgehogs" into a ceiling, you will need a transparent spherical base. It is obtained similarly to a lampshade made of threads (see below), only the threads are taken from white nylon or propylene no thicker than the 20th number, and instead of PVA - a colorless water-based acrylic varnish.
A very uniform illumination allows you to achieve, and very decorative, a lampshade made of leaves cut from bottles, see fig. It is assembled on a temporary spherical mandrel, see below.
Lampshade made from homemade plastic leaves
The step-by-step master class in this case is also simple, but it requires patience, accuracy, some additional tool and, possibly, material:
- We are preparing a soldering iron with a bronze nickel-plated tip (for dry soldering) at 40 W or with a conventional copper tip at 25 W;
- If the sting is copper, you will also need a Teflon (fluoroplastic) tape 0.06 mm wide 60-80 mm;
- Cut out the leaves from the bottle. From the point of view of lighting technology, pale green or light brown are better suited;
- With a soldering iron tip (copper - through the film), we slightly melt the edges of the leaves, otherwise they will look unnatural;
- With the tip of the sting (copper also through the film), we “draw” the veins;
- With the plane of the sting between the veins, with light touches, we slightly melt the surface so that, like real leaves, it is not quite smooth;
- Again, with the tip of the sting deeper, but without piercing, we bring out the central vein. It is convenient to do this on a soft heat-resistant lining (coarse calico or felt will go in several layers);
- We put a thread in the central vein and melt it by “winding” the side roller onto the hollow;
- Complex leaves, if required, we form by tying the threads of the leaves;
- Having spread the leaves on the film (now any), we impregnate the threads with acrylic varnish from the pipette. After it dries, the foliage is ready for assembly.
The procedure for making Christmas decorations and lamps from threads is described many times in Runet. For example - video:
Video: do-it-yourself twine / thread lampshade
Here it can only be noted that, firstly, it will take at least 100 m of thread for a medium-sized lampshade. Secondly, it makes no sense to use inflatable balls as mandrels: after 10-20 turns, under the pressure of stretched threads, the ball protrudes where it is not necessary, and the result is something unspeakable. Thirdly, it is also not necessary to pre-soak the threads in flour paste: the product will turn out to be fragile and not moisture resistant.
As a mandrel in the manufacture of a lampshade from threads, it is best to use a tightly inflated chamber from a sports ball or a durable silicone beach ball inflated from a pump through a nipple. The mandrel is lubricated several times with petroleum jelly (lanolin), carefully rubbing it with your hands. It won't hurt the ball in any way; on the contrary, it will prolong its life.
Device for making a lampshade from threads
Further, the thread is wound on the mandrel, continuously pulling through the simplest device, see fig. This mini-impregnating bath, so that it does not accidentally crawl, tip over and douse something with glue, is fixed on the table with adhesive tape; Convenient double sided. The glass is first pierced with a needle and thread, then poured with PVA or acrylic varnish and wound, tightening as necessary. Usually the thread goes through the bath itself, because. glue until it dries is a good lubricant.
When winding, do not forget to leave a window for entering the cable and cartridge - the strength of the cut thread ball drops sharply! A day after its completion, air is released from the mandrel and pulled out through the same window. It, “pro-vaselined”, sticks to the threads very rarely and fragilely: you can tear it off by slightly pulling or pressing it with your finger, and the product remains intact.
Note: jute, sisal or propylene twine can be used instead of thread, but there is a better use for it in a lampshade, see below.
And where is it all?
Plafonds-balls, see fig., Suitable for the nursery, because. form an even soft light. The one on the left is made from paper cupcake wrappers on a thread ball base. Threads - propylene or thin nylon colorless; binder - acrylic varnish. White in the coil, after impregnation with varnish, such threads become almost transparent. Lampshade-ball of cups (on the right) is not so interesting, because the dishes are all the same, but it is more difficult to tear it apart.
Lampshades for children's chandeliers
In the hallway, a hemispherical lampshade from the same cups is more suitable, see fig. on right. With a low lamp power (more precisely, its luminous flux), it will give a bright spot below and acceptable illumination of the rest of the room, so you can use low-heating incandescent lamps of 15-30 watts. The fact is that the resource of economy lamps and LEDs is sharply reduced with frequent on / off. And a low-power incandescent lamp, especially in the hallway, where the light is constantly off, will not significantly increase the cost of electricity.
Chandelier lampshade in the hallway
A special case is the kitchen. The requirements for lighting in it are set out in a previous article. But the lampshade in the kitchen quickly gets dirty, and the soot eats in hard. Recall: bright light contributes to the condensation and bituminization of vapors of organic compounds. This is the sedimentation of soot; the lampshade is illuminated most brightly.
The simplest way out is a disposable paper lampshade. "Bump", as in pos. 1 fig. below, will give just the character of lighting needed in the kitchen, but you will have to do it again quite often. It is better to mold a papier-mâché lampshade on a suitable mandrel, pos. 2. After varnishing with acrylic varnish, it can be gently washed with a cloth with dishwashing detergent, and painted with a blacksmith's patina, it will look like handmade forged and certainly not like some old newspapers.
Lampshades for kitchen lamps
But the lampshade on pos. 3 - juice straws glued to the bottle - an example of an unsuccessful solution. Such a lampshade will give an ideal light for the kitchen (straws work partially as light guides), but it gets dirty quickly, you can’t clean it properly, and the product is laborious. Plastic reflectors for local lighting kitchen lamps are best made from reusable plastic dishes, pos. 4, it is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to clean. Cups with handles and saucers, of course, are a matter of design decision, but bowls without a pattern are what you need.
How to make papier mache?
Papier-mâché material is useful for many purposes, so let's recall the technology of its preparation and use:
- Old newspapers, or better, the cheapest unglued writing paper, are torn into shreds about the size of a thumbnail. You will need a lot of paper!
- Scraps to the top fill a suitable dish; say, a liter glass jar.
- In boiling water, dilute 1/3-1/5 by volume of PVA.
- While the solution has not cooled down, fill it with paper pulp.
- Stir until the paper completely spreads into fibers.
- After cooling, papier-mâché is poured into consumable dishes or immediately put into action. You can store paper paste for up to 6 months. in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.
- Prepare the next batch in the same way.
- If the paper paste immediately goes to work, you can add the next one to the pasted area of the mandrel, while the previous one is still wet and wrinkled with your fingers. If you finish it dry, the product, having dried, may fall apart into “cakes”.
- The workpiece is ready for varnishing, painting, etc. after a week of drying at a temperature of at least 22 degrees. The air temperature around the workpiece must be the same on all sides! It is impossible to dry on a battery, convector, under direct sunlight or an infrared emitter!
tubules
Lampshades and plafonds made of pieces of tubes are most often made for night lamps and lamps in the bedroom: due to the round section, they always have a significant refraction of light, which can be very intimate and romantic, but in most cases it is undesirable for permanent and working lighting. Lampshades made of translucent tubes also give a rather spotty light, see fig.; if you use pieces of a thin transparent PVC hose, then the play of light will turn out to be very beautiful, but you don’t need to look at it for a long time, and even more so read or sew in such a light.
Tube lampshade
Paper and other fibrous materials do not refract light much, but the tubes made of them are fragile in themselves. For example, it is better to make a lampshade from newspaper tubes on a frame, see below: precisely because they wrinkle easily, thin paper tubes are an excellent material for weaving. As for the lighting properties, paper, especially pure paper, is excellent.
Lampshade on the frame
Now let's get down to the lampshades, which are suitable for anywhere, incl. and for a table lamp, which can be pushed to the floor with an elbow. In addition, we will set the condition that the lampshade trim can be washed, cleaned, changed at will. Therefore, we do not touch glass or solid hard plastic lampshades; Also, you can't make them at home. That is, let's deal with lampshades on a frame with soft lining.
About lampshade fabrics
The decorative light cover of the lampshade is preferably sewn from fabric with fleecy threads, i.e. natural. Due to diffraction on smooth synthetic filaments, the light penetrating through such a lampshade may turn out to be hard. It is not difficult to choose a fabric for a lampshade by eye: through the sample, turning it smoothly, they look at some compact bright light source; preferably LED, because it gives the most coherent, i.e. orderly, light. The selection criterion is simple: the less moiré fringes observed from different angles of view, the better the fabric.
About lampshade restoration
The frame of the lampshade is quite laborious and technologically complicated, so first you need to look around at the farm: is there a lampshade from an old lamp lying around somewhere. Straightening it, repairing and updating the lampshade with a new cover will be easier than making a frame from scratch.
Homemade tool for measuring large diameters
The discovered “basket” may turn out to be a very fanciful shape, and in order to build patterns (see below), it will be necessary to accurately measure its diameters in several places. In this case, a home-made caliper from 3 wooden slats and a pair of drawing squares will help out. Of course, he will not give the accuracy of the factory gauge, but achievable (+/-1 mm) is enough for cutting and sewing work. An idea of the possibilities of such a tool is given in Fig.
The measurement procedure is 2-stage: on the sponges in the places where they touch the object, marks are made with a pencil, and then the size is taken between the marks with a tape measure. In order for the movable sponge to slide more smoothly, and, accordingly, to measure more accurately, a fluoroplastic film must be placed under the rubber bands holding it. To measure small diameters, the sponges are turned over with squares outward.
Building a pattern
Now we remove the necessary diameters: the lower and upper hoops (D1 and D11 in pos. 1 in the figure), the largest and smallest on the belts (D2, D6, D10), at the bends, i.e. where the curvature of the generatrix changes sign (D4, D8) and at breaks (D5). Others we take more or less evenly between the mandatory ones.
Building a lampshade pattern
The diameters of the pattern of 6 wedges will be, taking into account the tightening of the fabric, equal to half of the measured diameters (pos. 2). If the wedges of the finished sleeve are supposed to be more or less, proportionally change the proportion of the diameter in the corresponding cross section of the pattern. But it's too early to cut and sew.
There, at pos. 2 shows that the stitching allowance is geometrically not completely similar to the template. In knot I (inward kink), this is not so bad: you can sew on a backsleeve and tighten the seam with a cord. If the decor of the lampshade involves ruffles, frills, scallops, etc., then perhaps this is how it should be: small folds will fall into place, and the cord will not be visible in the break of the contour.
However, on the contour shelf (node II), whatever one may say, it is not possible to give an allowance so that the seam does not “leave”. In higher geometry, it is proved why, but we don’t need to climb into this jungle: we will simply cut the paper template along “capricious” diameters at breaks and shelves (pos. 3).
Cover tailoring
Now, how to sew a lampshade according to our patterns? First, separate parts of the sleeve are sewn; in this case bottom, middle and top. Then, the widest adjacent part (here, the middle) is sewn to the widest belt (bottom). Then, in the same way, 2 parts following the width are sewn together, etc. The bottom line is that the shortest transverse seam (we have Seam 2) is sewn last. In this sample, after sewing the bottom with the middle, the top is sewn to them. The tailoring of the cover is completed by trimming the excess allowances, except for the lower and upper collars. The edges must be hemmed.
Frame cover
The next stage is the landing of the cover on the frame. Here the machine can be sent to the closet: the work is exclusively manual. Step by step, the covering of the frame of the lampshade with a cover is carried out as follows:
- The cover is turned inside out (that it was sewn from the inside, probably, and so it is clear) and put on the frame;
- Wrap inward and stitch the top lapel;
- Tighten and trim the fabric to the first fold (here - D8). If there was no hoop in the original sample, it must be placed in advance, see below;
- The fabric is basted to the ribs of the frame from top to bottom alternately, and to the hoop at the inflection;
- Repeat paragraphs. 3 and 4 to the next bend (now D5), and so on to the bottom hoop;
- Wrap and stitch the bottom lapel.
How the simplest lampshade frame of a table lamp or floor lamp is arranged can be seen in pos. 1 fig. Hanging for a chandelier is different in that the ring will be at the top, the stretch marks from it will go to the upper hoop, and then additional holes are needed in the ring for attaching the suspension.
Lampshade frame device
The ring is cut out of a well-soldered and sufficiently strong sheet metal (bronze, brass, galvanized steel 0.4-2 mm thick) or durable plastic from 1 mm. A computer disk is suitable, under the E10 cartridge it will only need to drill holes for extensions and fasteners. The main dimensions of the ring for the E27 cartridge with fastening with union shaped nuts (pos. 3) are given in pos. 2. But it is unacceptable to make a ring for fastening in the gap between the body and the collar of the cartridge with a skirt (pos. 4)! Such cartridges are fastened only with a threaded fitting in the cover!
How stretch marks are attached to the ring is shown in pos. 5: their blanks are not completely bent with a hook, inserted into the mounting holes and gently squeezed with pliers. Then, if the ring is metal, solder (see below). If plastic - fix with drops of superglue or silicone.
solder assembly
Frame parts are made of plastic steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm or bicycle spokes. The latter are much stronger, do not rust and do not require painting, but they must be bent carefully and they are soldered worse. To solder the frame you will need:
- Soldering iron of at least 65 W (preferably 100-150 W).
- 6% orthophosphoric acid solution. Sold, for soldering, in radio shops and construction. Orthophosphoric acid is also available as food additive E338 in the form of needle-like colorless hygroscopic crystals.
- Flux paste (gel for soldering), always with borax.
- Thin, 0.15-0.35 mm bare copper wire. You can take the veins from the electrical wire.
- Solder POS-30 or POS-40. They are refractory (which is why you need a powerful soldering iron), but much stronger than POS-61 and other fusible ones.
Note: phosphoric acid of medium strength, highly toxic and / or caustic fumes does not exude. But still, when working with it, you need to take precautions - wear goggles and gloves (household latex will do).
The key procedures for assembling the frame on soldering are shown in fig.
Soldering steel parts
The phased brazed steel frame is assembled as follows:
- The ends of the linear blanks are kept for 3-4 minutes in acid (pos. 1), and then rinsed in water (pos. 2). Water needs at least 1 liter, and after 4-5 washes it must be changed.
- If the soldering is in the middle or the part is bent, soak a clean white rag in acid and wrap the place of soldering with it. They hold for about half a minute, then rinse the rags in acid, wrap the place of soldering with it again, and so on until the total time the acid acts on the metal reaches the same 3-4 minutes. After acid treatment, the part in this case is washed under running water for 1-2 minutes.
- Without touching the treated areas with bare fingers, the frame is completely assembled without soldering: the butt joints are tight, but not tight, i.e. with gaps between turns of 1.5-2 mm, wrapped with copper wire, pos. 3 and 4, and apply 2-3 drops of flux paste to each joint. Places of rations at the crosshairs of parts are wrapped with 2-3 turns of copper wire crosswise and fluxed with 1-2 drops.
- Semi-dry, i.e. without a hanging drop of solder, the rations are heated with a soldering iron tip until the flux spreads through all the cracks, pos. 5. It is not necessary to heat the flux to a boil and the appearance of vapors is not necessary. Also, the final result will be better if you heat the flux with a separate soldering iron with a dry bronze nickel-plated tip.
- They pick up a drop of solder, apply it to the place of soldering (pos. 6) and heat it until it flows everywhere, like a flux before. The excess solder hanging below is carefully removed with a soldering iron tip. It is impossible to apply unmelted solder in the form of a flexible wire, and refractory solders are produced mainly in rods.
Fabric or twine?
Propylene packaging twine and paper tubes have good lighting properties. If the lampshade is made of woven twine or newspaper tubes, it will give an even soft light, and complex cutting and sewing work will disappear. But in the frame for a wicker lampshade, firstly, there must be at least 10-12 ribs evenly spaced around the circumference.
Note: if the frame is of a simple shape, then only 3-4 ribs can be load-bearing (steel) in it. Let the rest be at least made of straw, they are glued to the upper and lower hoops.
Secondly, to get the rims at the top and bottom, respectively. the training is either doubled in height, with a gap of 2-3 cm, or strips of thin metal or hard plastic of the same width are attached to them. Headbands are needed for decorative reasons: a solid one is wrapped with twine or a tube, and if the headband is double, weaving can be started with a figure eight. The entire side surface is braided like a basket.
Stained glass lampshade
Stained glass lampshades form the luminous flux mainly by refraction, therefore they are more suitable for the living room.
stained glass lampshades and plafonds
Fragments of stained glass are made of rhinestones, faceted or cabochons. A stained-glass lampshade is assembled on a heat-resistant mandrel (for example, a steel bucket) using the Tiffany technique. But compared to a stained-glass window for a window or door, here, since the connections of the elements are not continuous, but point-like, there are significant differences:
- Solder is used only durable refractory, the same as for the lampshade frame, as well as flux with borax.
- The framing of rhinestones before soldering is made only from a special copper foil - folia - 3-15 mm wide, depending on the width of the crystal rim.
- The protective film is removed from the foil immediately before applying it to the crystal; do not touch the outer (soldered) surface of the foil with bare hands!
- Also, you can’t postpone the soldering of rhinestones wrapped in foil for tomorrow: copper will have time to oxidize, and the joints will turn out to be fragile.
- Upon completion of the soldering and thorough washing of the flux residues (with a rag with alcohol; then with distilled water), the soldering is copper-plated, applying a thick blue solution of copper sulfate with a brush.
- The remains of vitriol are washed off under running water. You can’t rub with a brush or even with cotton wool, because. the copper film on the solder is very thin.
A small surprise - about New Year's chandeliers and lampshades
New Year is coming soon, it's time to make Christmas decorations and holiday decorations. And a Christmas chandelier. Chandelier? Yes. Remember how the festive mood falls if the overhead light is turned on in the room with the Christmas tree. For some, no, but New Year's lighting should correspond to the spirit of the holiday. Let's postpone lighting engineering until serious days, nothing from the festive light will happen to us in a few evenings. Cause, it's time, but it's also an hour of fun.
Christmas chandeliers
Usually a New Year's chandelier is a Christmas wreath attached to the chandelier in the living room with light bulbs woven into it. But even an experienced electrician would not need to engage in electrical work at height in the pre-holiday turmoil. And what if the tree is in the nursery, where is the paper chandelier? Then you can at least buy inexpensive plastic blanks for Christmas balls, a garland with colorless light bulbs, stick them into balls, and hang such a pile (on the left in the figure) where it is more convenient.
If the design of the “everyday” chandelier is suitable, you can screw candle lamps into it and decorate it with the same balls or, for example, painted cones, right there. Or you can try a little and make a New Year's jasmine chandelier with your own hands, as in the video below. New Year is New Year, whatever you say.
When there is a desire to change the situation in the apartment and add a little originality to it, start with the little things. Try to change the lampshade, and you will be surprised at the transformation of your family nest.
And if you manage to find an original model that differs from analogues, then the changes will impress not only you, but also your guests.
True, unique lampshades cost decent money, because you can’t get piece work by eminent masters for a penny.
But after all, no one bothers you to create your own unique masterpiece from cheap, and sometimes even junk materials, which will look much better than the samples presented in the store.
All you need is simple materials, a little patience and a flight of fancy, and we will tell you how to make a lampshade with your own hands.
materials
You can create a masterpiece from everything that you have at hand: fabric, paper, thread, twine, wire, plastic bottle, beads or beads.
In general, absolutely everything is suitable, even what you usually send in a garbage bag.
Don't believe? Just look at the photo of the lampshade.
frame
If you have a frame from an old lampshade, then this is just wonderful.
However, do not be upset if one is not found, because you can create a frame yourself from ordinary wire.
Copper, aluminum, steel - everything that you can independently combine into a single structure will do.
The metal frame of the classic lampshade consists of three rings and six jumpers between them. The small ring is a holder, which is connected by three jumpers to a ring of a larger diameter.
The same, in turn, is connected by jumpers to the last ring. The following photos will help you understand the design.
From fabric
When a lampshade frame is available, the easiest way to create your own masterpiece is to wrap the base with a cloth. For this you will need:
- paper (newspaper);
- scissors;
- the cloth;
- chalk or pencil;
- threads.
Wrap the frame with newspaper in such a way as to form a pattern out of it. Then transfer the resulting shape to the fabric with chalk, adding 1 cm on each side to the seam.
Make a pattern, chop off the edges and sew the sides, forming a cover for the base of the future lampshade. We bend the upper and lower edges of the "cover" in such a way as to close the rings of the frame and fix it with a seam.
Note!
Voila, your lampshade for the floor lamp is almost ready. It remains to add a few highlights to your taste, giving it originality.
From threads
How to make a lampshade when there is no frame? Easy peasy.
Take a balloon without drawings, glue, thread, marker and start creating.
First you need to inflate the balloon and mark on it the upper and lower borders of your future masterpiece. Then take the threads and wrap them around the ball, trying not to protrude beyond the marked contours.
Apply glue diluted 1:1 with water to each layer of thread. When the density of the wound thread satisfies you, fix the cut edge and hang the ball to dry. After 3-4 hours, the threads will dry. Then pierce the ball and carefully detach it from the walls of the finished lampshade.
Leaves and flower petals woven between the layers of threads can give additional charm to a lampshade made of threads.
Note!
The ball, decorated with sparkling droplets of beads, also looks original. In general, watch and be inspired.
From paper
Ordinary sheets of office paper, glossy magazines, a cheap newspaper, an unnecessary book or an ordinary notebook, a paper towel or a napkin - these are all future lampshades.
It doesn’t matter if there is a frame or not, the main thing is that there are scissors, glue and paper. A thousand and one versions of such lampshades can be described with the words “cut and stick”.
The main thing is not to forget a few simple rules:
- a paper lampshade is safest to use with economy light bulbs, which heat up much less than incandescent bulbs;
- the diameter of the lampshade for lamps should be large so that the paper does not get too hot;
- for a bright room, you can make a lampshade from thick paper, but for a dark one, you need a thin, well-transmitting light;
- be careful with color. For example, red or yellow paper will add warmth to the room, green and blue - cold.
Well, that's all. Charge with new ideas, arm yourself with improvised means and forward to easy changes that bring warmth and comfort to your home.
Note!
DIY lampshade photo
We will need:
wire basket (also suitable for wire flower pots)
twine
ceiling mount for lamp
white paint in a spray can for painting on metal
cartridge, electric wire and light bulb
Crafting Instructions DIY lampshade:
1. If a wire is just passing through the center of the bottom of the wire basket, then you will have to cut a piece from it exactly in the centers so that you can later insert a cartridge with a light bulb. Once you've done this, use a hot glue gun to glue the ceiling light fixture to the bottom of the basket. The glue will not perform a load-bearing function, it is only needed to hold the mount in place.
2. If necessary, paint the wire basket white with spray paint.
3. Wrap the basket with twine. Here you can let your imagination run wild and wrap the way you want. Wrap tightly, without holes. This may take quite a long time.
4. When you come to the end, tie the twine inside, not a strong knot.
5.Insert the cartridge with the electric wire into the hole for fixing the lamp and hang the lampshade, fixing it on the ceiling.
6. Screw in a light bulb and enjoy your own creation!
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
Various DIY products have been enjoying huge popularity in recent years, and this trend will only increase in the coming years. I'll show you how to make a stylish lampshade using inexpensive materials. The configuration and dimensions of products can be very different, the main thing is to understand the process, and you can realize very original ideas.
Workflow steps
If you think that the work is difficult and you need to have certain skills, then you are very much mistaken. The option I described is available to any person, even if he has never engaged in such activities. The main thing is to have everything you need at hand and spend an hour of your time on work.
Required materials and tools
Let's figure out what we need to work. The list is approximate, and you can change individual elements in it, the main thing is to understand what will be used and for what:
| Materials and tools | Description |
| Lampshade holder | In our case, this is a part of the finished product, in which there is a mount to the ceiling, as well as a cartridge with a washer for attaching the lampshade. This option is good in that it can be raised and lowered, but you can purchase a piece of wire with a cartridge, which will have a mounting system |
| Lampshade mold | We used a plastic bowl of the shape and configuration we need, you can choose something to your taste. There are no special requirements, the main thing is that it is convenient for you to work, and the form is suitable for the manufacture of the structure. |
| Twine | In our case, this is a jute version, which costs a little and is sold in hardware stores and points selling needlework goods. But you can use other options, it all depends on the design and whether you have one or another material. |
| PVA glue | Its quantity depends on the size of the structure, the main thing is to use a high-quality composition, which, when dried, will give strength to the structure. Glue needs to be poured into a container, so you also need to have it on hand |
| Food film and scissors | With the help of a film, we will protect our form from glue and will be able to remove the finished product later. Scissors are needed to cut the film and cord, if desired, you can use a clerical knife, this is already a matter of convenience |
Of all of the above, pay special attention to the quality of the glue, since it depends on how reliable the product will be.
How a lampshade is made
Now let's figure out the sequence in which the work is done:
- First of all, our container is taken, which will serve as a form, placed upside down and covered with cling film. The film must cover all surfaces so that glue does not get on them. Accuracy is not particularly needed here, the main thing is to press the material tightly over the entire area;
- Next, you need to pour glue into a container of a suitable size, since we will soak blanks in it under our lampshade;
- As for the blanks, pieces of twine 40-50 cm long are cut for them, their number depends on the size of the structure, but it is important to remember one simple truth: the more ropes there are on the surface, the better the product will look;
- Another important nuance is that you need to unscrew the fastening washer from the cartridge, attach it in the middle of the bowl, in the place where the structure will be attached, and use a pen or felt-tip pen to draw a diameter so as not to glue the rope where the hole should be;
- The ropes must be soaked in PVA, they must be saturated with the composition, this will allow you to fasten them as needed. The twine prepared in this way acquires a very high flexibility, which is also important;
- Sticking is done in a chaotic manner, the more bends and weaves you get, the better the end result will look. You simply take one piece of rope at a time and press it against the surface, trying to give attractive curves. Naturally, it is not recommended to enter the marked hole, since you will need to subsequently assemble the structure;
- The work is done until the lampshade is ready, if in the process you realize that there are too few ropes, it's okay - cut more and add. It is important that the tips do not stick out anywhere, it is best to wind them around the bends so that they are not visible at all;
- The product must be left until the glue has completely dried, most often the twine is glued on one day, and the rest of the work on the second. Just touch the lampshade: if moisture is felt in some areas, then it is better to leave it to dry for some more time;
- When the element is dry, you need to remove the bowl from the middle, this is easy to do. Next, you need to separate the film from the twine, it comes off quite easily, it is important to carry out this work carefully so as not to damage the structure. If necessary, you can cut off strongly stuck pieces with scissors;
Comfort, convenience and style are the three pillars on which the design of any house or apartment is built. As you know, a cozy homely atmosphere, which you so want to immerse yourself in after a hard day's work, consists of trifles and details that are insignificant at first glance. Someone uses the services of a designer in order to create the long-awaited feeling of a cozy home, while someone tries to create a miracle with their own hands.
DIY chandelier
If you also decide to change something in your home, to add a touch of stylish originality to the design of your home, then we offer you a detailed master class “Lampshade made of threads and a balloon”. Thread balls will look very impressive both in a minimalist living room and in a bright children's room, where a magical mess reigns.
Also, the plus of this venture is also that you have to spend money on the product at a minimum. A lampshade made of threads will cost mere pennies, but it will look like a stylish, unusual and spectacular designer decoration.
You can make one large lampshade and hang it in your living room. You can make several small balls-lamps and decorate the bedroom with them. White balls without light bulbs can be just a stylish addition to the New Year's decor. There are a lot of options. If you choose the right colors and sizes, show a little imagination, then the lampshade made of threads will fit very harmoniously into any interior.
What you need
Inflate the balloon
First, decide on the size. You must understand exactly how many balls you need and what kind of thread lampshade should be. Inflate the balloon gently to the desired shape. Try to tie the ball, as they say, tightly, tightly. If you tie the base of the balloon too loosely, the balloon will deflate while the glue dries. As a result, you will get a shapeless circle, not a circle, which is completely unsuitable for decorating your home with it.
Remembering elementary school
Do you remember how they made papier-mâché animals at school? But if then we used ordinary sheets of paper, applying them to a form soaked in glue, now yarn will replace the paper.
Pour the glue into a specially prepared spacious container. We put on rubber gloves in order to protect the manicure and skin of the hands from the effects of glue. We begin to dip the yarn gradually into the glue. You can even say that not just dip, but soak the threads. They should be very well saturated with it.
Some use glue in cans. A hole is made there and the thread is passed through. There are a lot of options on the Internet on how to wet the threads and how to make a lampshade from threads with your own hands. The master class that we offer recommends the use of a container for glue.
According to the advice of experts, according to individual reviews of hostesses who have already decorated their homes with thread lamps, this is a more convenient option. In addition, soaking all the threads at once is much more convenient than sitting and passing three skeins through a jar of glue. Saving time and effort is a big deal.
We attach the thread
When the thread is well saturated with glue, it can be attached to the ball. To begin with, we fix it at the base of the ball. Knit tight, make knots. Do not be afraid that the thread will stand out from above or the tips will noticeably stick out. After everything dries, unnecessary details are simply removed with scissors.
And now comes the most creative moment. When the base of the thread and the ball are firmly connected, you can start winding the thread around the ball itself. You can do this in any order. The appearance of the lampshade will depend on the size of the thread you have chosen, on its color and on the winding option.
Tip: If you are making a lampshade out of thread and a ball for a living room or a children's room, where there should be more light, then try to wind the threads not too close to each other. So weaving will be chaotic, but not continuous. If the lampshade is being prepared to create a romantic atmosphere in the bedroom, then you can “darken it out”, that is, wind the threads more tightly to each other.
When to stop? We advise you to wind the thread until the ball is almost completely out of sight. As a rule, four or five layers of thread are enough for this. Also try to end the winding at the top of the ball. There you will fasten the end of the thread.
For greater strength, you can walk along the wound threads with a layer of PVA glue, applying it already with a brush.
How to dry a ball
It is recommended to hang the ball so that it does not lose its shape. If this is not possible, then find a voluminous dish and place the ball there. It can be a round basin or a deep pan. We wait a day until the product is completely dry.
And the ball burst
After everything dries, you can burst the ball. This shouldn't cause any problems.
Tip: before starting the process of winding the yarn, grease the base with a thin layer of petroleum jelly or degrease the surface with an alcohol solution. This will allow the threads to easily move away from the ball when you pop it.
Let there be light!
So, you already know how to make a lampshade from threads and a ball. It remains a little - to fix our product on the ceiling. To do this, take a light bulb, screw it into the lighting fixture. Secure the armature with brushes inside the lampshade. Then it remains to adjust the length of the wire. It is necessary that the lighting element is strictly in the center of your thread creation.
We fix the new lighting fixture to the ceiling hook. Turn on the light and enjoy your work.
