When performing painting work, you need to have various auxiliary materials at hand: gypsum for repairing cracks and correcting surface defects, mortar for repairing plaster or fluating spots and deposits on the surface of chimney masonry, degreasing agents, plaster for covering places that cannot be painted, etc.
A single layer of paint does not provide sufficient protection for the substrate, so you need to apply several layers of paint in succession, each of which performs its own function.
The bottom layer serves to adhere the multilayer coating to the base. The finishing layer, which completes the paint coating, protects the lower layers from external influences and performs a decorative function. If oil paint is applied in one layer, the surface will be wrinkled, and cracks will appear on it over time.
The number of layers depends on the type of paint, the required quality of the coating and the type of substrate. Glue paint is applied in two layers, water-based paint in three, and some glossy polishes in six or more layers.
Each subsequent layer should contain more pigment and less binder. For example, an emulsion from a primer is strongly diluted with water, and for a coating layer it is not diluted at all.
Before you start painting, you need to prepare the base. The surface to be painted must be free from dirt, rust, grease and, moreover, dried (this is especially true for wooden surfaces). If water remains in the pores of the wood, the paint will not penetrate there. It will stay on the surface and then fall off.
If the wood is dry on the surface and damp inside, when heated under the sun's rays and under other influences, water vapor will press from below on the paint coating and break it.
To obtain a high-quality paint coating, it is not necessary to paint at low or too high temperatures, as well as in the sun, in a draft, in fog and in light rain. During painting work, the temperature should not be lower than 5 °C.
When painting, the brush is held with a slight inclination to the surface. It is immersed in paint, dipping not completely, but only a quarter of the length of the hair, excess paint is removed from the brush on the edge of the can.
First, the paint is applied on edges, in corners and hard-to-reach places, and only then on smooth surfaces. When overhead surfaces are being painted, the paint often drips onto the handle of the brush. To prevent this from happening, you can take an old rubber ball, cut it in half and thread the brush handle into one of the halves. To prevent the ball from jumping off the handle, an elastic band is strengthened under it. If there is no ball, a glassine circle with a diameter of 5-7 cm is put on the handle.
When cleaning the ceiling, if it has not been previously painted, first of all, the old nabel is removed. A small nabel can be washed out with hot water with a brush and a rag, and a thick one must be cleaned with a dry scraper. You can pre-moisten it with hot water with a brush and after 40 minutes remove it with a scraper or spatula.
The scraper or spatula is placed at an angle to the surface and, by slightly pressing on the tool, the layer of whitewash is removed with sliding movements forward. In the same way, mortar splashes, paint layers and other contaminants are removed.
Cracks in the ceiling and walls must first be expanded and then smeared with the appropriate compound. The grease is produced with a spatula, while filling up not only embroidered cracks, but also shells and cavities that are on the surface. After drying, the greased places are ground and primed.
BRUSH PAINTING
Although recently the application of paint with a roller or with the help of paint sprayers has become more common, at home they still use a brush.
The brush needs to be prepared - wash it between your fingers and blow it. For painting, you can use flat and round brushes. The size of round brushes is chosen depending on the nature of the surface or object to be painted, as well as on the density of paints and varnishes.
In the new round brush, you need to shorten the length of the hair with a garter, otherwise it will splatter the paint. The length of free hair is approximately 30-40 cm.
The paint is applied evenly, first with movements in one direction, and then perpendicular to it, shading well until the entire surface is evenly painted. The last movements with the brush on horizontal surfaces are performed along their long sides, on vertical ones from top to bottom, and if wooden surfaces are painted, then in the direction of the annual layers of wood.
If the paint is on drying oil, the last layer is smoothed with light brush movements in a perpendicular direction. For smoothing, it is best to take a hair brush.
Large areas during painting should be divided into several small ones, limited by seams or slats. This takes into account the type of paintwork material. The door leaf with paint on drying oil can be painted all at once. If the room is painted with oil enamel, then it is better to apply paint on smaller surfaces.
When painting vertical surfaces, the paint must be carefully shaded so that it does not drip or form streaks. The paint runs off some time after it is applied, so do not take too thin paint or apply it in a thick layer.
If a complex relief surface with various recesses is being painted, it must be remembered that too much paint should not be applied to them, because it will drain, wrinkle the surface and dry poorly.
To obtain a smooth edge of the surface to be painted, you can use a self-adhesive tape glued to a line previously beaten off with a cord or a plumb line.
ROLLER PAINTING
To wet the rollers with paint, you will need a flat metal box with longitudinal walls in the shape of a trapezoid. A sieve with meshes of 10-20 mm is installed in the box, through which a roller soaked in paint is passed to eliminate excess and evenly distribute the paint around the entire perimeter of the roller.
The work is done in this way. On a surface of about 1 m2, 3-4 strips of paint are applied, after which these strips are rolled with a roller with squeezed paint in a horizontal direction (with a slight inclination of the roller) until the paint is evenly distributed on the surface. If it is required to limit the area to be painted, its edges are covered with thick paper or sealed with adhesive tape.
Before painting any surface, it must be properly prepared.
New plastered, concrete or gypsum surfaces must first be cleaned of dust. After that, with the help of pumice stone or sandpaper, irregularities, roughness and other defects are eliminated. Existing cracks are cut to a depth of a couple of mm. After deepening, the cracks are moistened with water and treated with a gypsum mortar, grease or putty. The surface treated in this way is leveled with a grater.
Wooden new surfaces must be cleaned from dirt and dust. After that, they are freed from knots, plugs and pitches. Plugs are also eliminated by cutting 3-5 mm. Cracks and crevices are also cut. If this procedure is not followed, then the knots will appear in the form of tubercles when the wood dries out. The same thing will happen with pitches. In addition, the paint will be destroyed by these defects from the inside.
Everyone is needed e preparatory operations for those surfaces that have already been painted with oil paints, depend on how preserved old paint, and what kind of surface it is. If the old coating and plaster are holding well, then it is enough to rinse the surface with a 2% soda solution.If there are places where the oil paint has weakened, then it must be partially or completely scraped off. Then, when the old paint was covered with mwrinkles and cracks, but it cannot be cleaned off, it is necessary to apply a wash to the surface to remove the old paint. After some timetvia wash (0.5-2 hours), the paint softens, and it is easy to remove it with a spatula. Old paint can also be removed with a blowtorch, a special hair dryer (the air flow temperature of such hair dryers reaches 280-300 degrees), or even an iron, the hot surface of which (to preserve the appearance of the iron) is covered with aluminum foil.
If a thick layer of the old coating remains on the wooden surface, then before a new painting, the surface should be washed with a 2% layer of soda and warm water. After washing, it does not hurt to clean the surface with pumice stone mixed with water. If there are cracks, lags, flaking, and other damage to the surface on the previous paint layer, then the old paint in the damaged areas must definitely be removed down to a solid wooden base. These places cleared of paint then need to be treated with clean drying oil, as well as smeared with putty and treated with a primer.
Facade finishing elements and metal surfaces must be cleaned of rust, as well as paint that has become unusable. To perform such work, you need to use a spatula, scraper, sandpaper or a metal brush. In addition, all surfaces to be painted must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, plaster splashes and other traces of building materials.
Surfaces for painting with water-based and enamel paints should be prepared in the same way as before painting with oil paints. Water-based paints can be used to paint surfaces that have traces of oil paint and other paints. However, as mentioned before, it is allowed to leave only that layer of paint that is firmly attached to the carrier material.
Before painting with Finnish or Swedish emulsion paints, wood that has just been planed must be cleaned of resin. In order to deresin the wood, you need to wipe its surface a couple of times with an 8-10% solution of soda ash. The temperature of the solution should reach 50-60 degrees. After wiping with soda ash, the surface is cleaned (wiped) with warm water.
Those surfaces that were previously painted with lime compounds should be carefully examined. If there are traces of whitewash, then they need to be cleaned. A layer of thick old nabel should be moistened with plenty of water (water temperature - 50-70 degrees). After wetting the layer, you need to clean the paint with a spatula and rinse the surface with water.
If the surface was previously painted with chalk (adhesive) paint, then it is forbidden to re-paint this surface with an adhesive composition. After all, a new layer of paint will delay the old one. Consequently, the new layer will peel off along with the old one. Old adhesive paint can be dry cleaned. But you can, again, use hot water (to treat the surface with hot water, use a brush that is well wetted with large portions of water). After cleaning, the old adhesive paint is removed with a scraper or spatula. To completely eliminate white spots on the surface, they are also washed out with hot water.
If the surfaces were painted with silicate or casein paints, then they should be cleaned with a 2-3% hydrochloric acid composition. Under its influence, the chalk reacts. In this state, the old paint is well removed with a spatula or scraper.
SURFACE PRIMER
An important operation in painting work. It is carried out so that the pores that are present on almost any surface (especially wooden surfaces) are closed. In addition, the primer creates a more reliable adhesion of the main layer of paint to the surface of the material.
The primer is carried out at a time. Or make several layers of primer. Apply the primer only on a prepared and dry surface. The primer should be applied with a brush and blended very carefully. The previous layer of soil, when re-priming, puttying or lubricating, should dry well.
Under enamel or oil paint, the surface must be primed with clean drying oil. However, for convenience, a little paint of the color in which the surface will be painted in the future can be added to the drying oil. Due to this, the surface on which unprimed spots remain will become visible. Under lime paints, the primer is carried out on a wet surface. This improves the adhesion of the paint, and also increases its durability. Such surfaces should be treated with the type of primer that is suitable for such paints. Under silicate or casein paints, the surface is primed with the same primer, but with a more liquid consistency. Under water-based compositions, the primer is performed with a composition that is suitable for water-based paints. However, the surface must be pre-treated with putty and drying oil. If the painting will be carried out with Finnish or Swedish paints, then a primer is not needed.
In painting work, the next operation (after priming) is lubrication. By means of appropriate lubrication, defects on the surface of the material to be painted can be eliminated. The grease must strictly correspond to the type of paint that will be used.
The primer is applied with a spatula. The dried grease is ground (cleaned). After that - primed. After greasing and priming, the surface should be leveled. To do this, putty is used. Putty should also be selected in accordance with the paint used. Putty is applied in an even thin layer with a spatula on the entire surface to be painted. Like the grease, the putty is cleaned (after it has completely dried). And they prime again.
The paint must be applied to a clean and dry surface. To apply paint, you need to use a roller, sprayer or brush. Each next layer can be applied only after the previous layer has dried.
When working with a brush, hold it almost perpendicular to the surface to be painted. The brush should glide easily with only its tip over the surface to be painted. It should move with light pressure. The layer should be thin. On vertical surfaces, you need to paint from top to bottom (especially the last time). The wooden surface is shaded only along the fibers. The surface can be painted in 1-2 layers. If necessary, the number of layers of paint is adjusted to three.
In order to cover the painted surfaces with varnish, you need to use oil paints. In addition, such surfaces can be coated with oil varnish. This results in an increased surface gloss. In addition, the varnish prolongs the life of the paint coating. Before use, the oil varnish is heated. Then mix and apply warm with a brush on a well-dried and already painted surface with oil paint. The layer of varnish should be thin. After drying the initial layer of varnish, you can, if necessary, apply another layer.
Glasses near the frames, before painting the windows, must be pasted over with adhesive tape or strips of paper. If strips of paper are used, they must first be moistened with water and rubbed with soap. Such measures will protect window panes from paint contamination. In addition, shields made of plywood, cardboard or tin can be used for these purposes. The paint should be shaded along the bars of the window sash. In places of the vestibule, until the paint is completely dry, the windows must be left open.
Paint, when painting doors, must first be applied in a horizontal direction. And then - in vertical. To level the facade (the final stage of painting surfaces), special trimming and flute brushes are used.
Without pressure, the tip of the flute should be drawn over the painted surface. The gaps must be carefully shaded. As soon as the flute is saturated with paint, it is carefully squeezed out, wiped with a rag, and only then work continues. The flutes can be washed. But before using the flute must dry well. After all, when wet, the flute will not level the paint. The surface after flattening will be smooth and even. There will be no clots of paint on it and, importantly, no brush marks.
When working with a trimming brush, light strokes should be applied to a newly painted surface. Thus, a rough texture is obtained. Tortsovk at wipe with a dry cloth during operation. Like a flute, trimming must be washed and dried thoroughly. A wet brush is practically unsuitable for trimming.
This is done to increase their service life and create an attractive appearance, as well as, and not least, to improve sanitary conditions in the room. For example, in various government agencies, schools or hospitals, painting work is carried out without fail every year.
Painting work is carried out using modern paints or their mixtures of different compositions and colors, mainly oil-based, but sometimes water-based. When using aqueous formulations, there is a need for binders, such as lime, glass, glue or cement, while for non-aqueous formulations, different types of drying oil or synthetic or natural resins will be needed.
Painting works are carried out with the help of oil, lime, enamel and adhesive paints, as well as various varnishes. The vast majority of paints and varnishes can be purchased at specialized stores, and some formulations can be prepared at home.
In the course of painting work, solvents will be needed, such as white spirit (white alcohol) or acetone, paint thinners, as well as additional mixtures - a primer, lubricating paste, putty.
Despite the seeming simplicity of painting and preparing paints, the technique of painting and coating objects developed and specialized slowly over a long period of time. Simultaneously with the economic ramifications of the industry, the technique of dyeing also became more complicated, changing depending on the purpose for which it was intended. Thus, for example, fine glazes, rough plasters, and clear lacquers are all technically far apart.
Such a variety of colors occurs because in different cases of practice, special requirements are imposed on staining. Thus, the coloring of the facade of a house must withstand completely different influences than the same coloring of the interior of the same house.
Further, the difference in requirements also depends on whether the paint will subsequently have to be washed or whether it will not be subjected to any mechanical cleaning. Is the object being painted in a dry or damp room and what kind of dampness is this. Whether it precipitates from the warmer air or whether it evaporates directly. In addition, whether this dampness has neutral properties or acts chemically, dissolving, corroding, or washing the color, or depositing foreign substances on it. In the same way, when painting, it must be taken into account whether the painting will be in the form of a porous mass or whether it is required to make a coating impervious to water and gases. Should the paint be matte or glossy? Finally, the requirements for painting are also very dependent on many side issues: should the painting withstand temperatures above or below normal, be fireproof and to what extent.
These are, in general terms, the most common requirements for various kinds of colors. They relate only to the staining technique itself and almost do not touch the aesthetic side at all. In the latter respect, a number of requirements can also be set, such as the practical choice of colors, which are important not only for interior decoration, building facades, painting cars, etc.
Different requirements for colorings entail a variety of types of colorings and materials from which they are made.
Painting art in its works either imitates nature or creates contrasts with it. Nature is generally not familiar with monotony and homogeneity; reproducing them, painting art reproduces contrasts. Here, a very important condition is the softness of tone, graceful transitions of tones, which determines the pleasant impression made on the viewer.
All naturally occurring colors can be reduced to the three primary colors red, yellow, and blue, yet not all colors can be obtained from them, since the paints that we have are not ideally pure economically and optically. So, for example, the beautiful color of carmine cannot be achieved by mixing cinnabar with azure. Pure dark blue never comes from blue and black.
Suppose we have a circle divided into three equal parts, of which one is colored red, the other yellow and the third blue.
Each of these parts can be divided into two, so, from mixing yellow with blue, you get green; red with blue - purple, red with yellow - orange.
All these colors, in turn, can be subdivided each into two: violet can be red-violet if red predominates, and blue-violet if blue predominates.
The colors (tones) reproduced in this way will show us additional colors that will be located opposite each other along the diameter.
If we look at a small red rectangle on a white background, then it will seem to us that it has greenish contours; if you take a yellow quadrilateral, then the outline will appear bluish; green gives pale red contours; blue - red-yellow and black - white contours. Then, if, after a long and intent gaze, we quickly turn our eyes to a white background, then we will see a quadrilateral of the color with which its contours seemed to be painted to us.
Therefore, instead of a red quadrangle, we will see a green one; instead of yellow - blue, etc.
Such colors are called complementary; thus, two colors, complementary to each other, placed side by side, mutually annihilate the colored rays with which each of them individually was surrounded, and therefore stand out more sharply. If the colors are not the same in their brightness, then the dark one will seem even darker, and the light one - even lighter. Changes in adjoining colors depend on the play of complementary colors with adjoining ones.
Let's explain this with examples.
Red and blue. The complementary color of red is green, and therefore blue becomes darker when next to red; red becomes yellowish, because the complementary color of blue is orange.
Red and yellow. Red, with its complementary green, turns yellow into yellow-green; yellow, with its additional purple color, turns red into purple.
Yellow and blue. With the complementary color of yellow, violet turns the bright blue into indigo; the additional blue - orange - turns yellow into orange-yellow, etc.
All primary colors win when touched with white, because their complementary colors mix with white, which makes the colors bright and shiny. However, on a white background, light colors, such as light blue, pink, etc., make a more pleasant impression, because the primary colors blue, red, and others form a sharp contrast with white.
The black background is equally suitable for dark and light bright colors. Colors stand out very nicely on it: red, rose-red, orange, yellow, light green and blue; less beautifully stands out on black violet color.
Due to the combination with dark colors such as blue and purple, whose complementary colors are orange and yellow-green, black loses its power.
On various backgrounds, this color receives the following changes: on a red background, it appears dark green; on yellow - pale purple; on orange - blue-black; on green it is reddish-gray; and on violet it is yellow-green-gray.
The gray background can be modified as follows: under the influence of red, it becomes greenish; under the influence of yellow - blue-violet; under the influence of orange - bluish, green - reddish and blue - orange.
All these observations prove that the impression produced by colors is the result of mixing one of them with the complementary color of the latter. Thus, knowing the impression produced by this complementary color, it is possible to combine colors and determine in advance the impression that will occur with such a combination.
Painting technology
Surface preparation
Before painting any surface, it must be properly prepared.
Gypsum, concrete or pre-plastered walls are first cleaned of dust. Then the surface is leveled with sandpaper or pumice, various defects and roughness are eliminated. If there are cracks, they must be deepened by a few millimeters. A deepened crack is moistened with water, after which it is treated with putty or gypsum mortar. The resulting surface is leveled with a grater.
The wooden surface must be cleaned of dirt, as well as remove plugs, knots and resins. Plugs are removed by cutting 3-5 mm. It is also necessary to clear cracks and cracks. If this recommendation is neglected, when the wood dries out, the knots will appear on the surface in the form of tubercles. Similarly, the situation is with resins. Moreover, because of these defects, the paint will collapse from the inside.
The list of preparatory operations for a surface that has already been painted depends on its condition and type, as well as the safety of the paint.
If the original coating and plaster hold well, it is enough to rinse the surface with a 2% soda solution. In places where the oil paint has weakened, it must be scraped off. If the old paint is cracked and cannot be removed, the surface should be treated with a special remover that will help remove the paint. After a certain time after applying the wash (from half an hour to 2 hours), the paint softens and can be easily removed with a spatula. A layer of old paint can also be removed with a blowtorch, a special hair dryer, and also using an iron, having previously protected its sole with aluminum foil so as not to spoil it.
The wooden surface, on which the layer of the previous coating remains, must be washed with a 2% soda solution and warm water before the next painting. After that, it is recommended to clean the surface with pumice stone mixed with water. If there are lags, cracks, peeling and other damage on the original paint layer, the old paint must be removed right down to the wooden base. Places cleaned from paint must be treated with drying oil, putty and primer.
Metal surfaces and facade finishes should be cleaned of rust and paint that has lost its attractive appearance. To perform this work, you will need a scraper, spatula, wire brush or sandpaper. In addition, the surface to be painted must be cleaned of dirt, traces of plaster and other residues of construction work.
Surfaces intended for painting with enamel or water-based paint are prepared in the same way as before working with oil paint.
The surface, on which there are traces of the old paint, such as oil, can be covered with water-based paint. In this case, it is necessary to leave a layer of only the paint that adheres well to the source material.
Before you start painting wood with emulsion paint produced in Sweden or Finland, you must first clean the surface of the resin. To do this, the wood should be wiped several times with a 10% solution of soda ash, the temperature of which should not exceed 50-60 ° C. Then the surface must be washed with warm water.
If a lime composition was applied to the surface, it is necessary to carefully examine it and, if necessary, remove traces of whitewashing. A dense layer of old whitewash is abundantly moistened with water at a temperature of up to 70 ° C, and when it gets wet, the paint is removed with a spatula and the surface is washed with water.
If the surface has been finished with adhesive or chalk paint, it is not recommended to re-apply adhesive to it. This is due to the fact that fresh paint will pull back the already existing layer and as a result, both the old and the new layers will peel off.
You can clean the surface of a layer of old paint “dry”, but hot water can also be used. In the latter case, it is better to use a brush that will wet well. Next, the old adhesive paint is removed with a spatula or scraper.
To prepare the surface for coating with casein or silicate paint, a 2-3% hydrochloric acid solution is used. Interacting with chalk, hydrochloric acid makes it easy to remove old paint with a scraper or spatula.
Surface priming
One of the most important stages of painting work is priming the surface. It is carried out in order to close the pores that are usually present on the surface of any material, especially wood.
The primer also provides a stronger adhesion of the paint to the base.
Usually the primer is carried out once, sometimes in several layers. Before application, make sure the surface is dry. The primer is applied with a brush, after which it is carefully shaded.
Before proceeding with the application of the next layer of primer or putty, it is necessary to make sure that the primer layer has dried out well.
Pure drying oil is used to prime the surface for enamel or oil paint. For convenience, namely, so that unprimed areas can be seen, it is allowed to add a little paint to it, which will then be used to paint the surface.
Priming for lime paints is carried out on a damp surface, which increases the adhesion of the paint to the base and increases the durability of the coating.
For the treatment of such surfaces, appropriate types of primers are used. The same type of primer, but more liquid consistency, is used to prepare the surface for casein or silicate paint.
Under water-based compositions, a primer is selected that is suitable for working with paint of this type.
However, such a surface is subject to pre-treatment with drying oil or putty. No priming is required to work with Swedish or Finnish paint.
Puttying
The next step after priming is to putty the surface. It is necessary to eliminate defects in the processed material.
The surface must be leveled with putty, which is selected according to the type of paint used.
Using a spatula, an even layer of putty is applied to the entire surface to be treated, which, after it has completely dried, must be cleaned and primed again.
The composition of technological operations
The building codes establish three types of paints in terms of quality: simple, improved and high-quality, and a list of technological operations that must be performed so that the corresponding paint meets the sanitary, technical or aesthetic requirements imposed on it.
The use of foreign-made paints and varnishes, which are distinguished by high technological and operational qualities, does not contradict the technology adopted by us regarding the set of operations in their technological sequence, but it gives a real opportunity to significantly improve the quality of painting work and reduce the time for their implementation. To do this, it is necessary to study the composition of technological operations and select the necessary materials according to their purpose and properties, using the information contained in this manual and the instructions of manufacturers.
Table 1. Technological operations performed in the preparation and painting of indoor surfaces with oil, enamel and synthetic paints
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Type of coloring |
||||||||
|
Technological operations |
improved and high- quality |
improved and high- quality |
improved and high- quality |
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|
on wood |
for plaster and concrete |
for metal |
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1. Cleaning | ||||||||
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2. Surface smoothing | ||||||||
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3. Cutting out knots and resins with grouting | ||||||||
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4. Jointing of cracks | ||||||||
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5. Priming (pro-oiling) | ||||||||
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6. Partial grease polished greased | ||||||||
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7. Priming of greased places | ||||||||
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8. Solid putty | ||||||||
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9. Sanding | ||||||||
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10. Priming | ||||||||
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11. Flattening | ||||||||
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12. Sanding | ||||||||
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13. First coloring | ||||||||
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14. Flattening | ||||||||
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15. Sanding | ||||||||
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16. Second coloring | ||||||||
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17. Flanging or trimming | ||||||||
Table 2. Technological operations performed in the preparation and painting of external surfaces
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Technological operations |
Paint compositions |
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|
silicate |
lime- vye and cement |
emulsion synthetic |
perchlor-vinyl |
oil and enamel |
cement and viscous cement |
|
|
1. Cleaning | ||||||
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2. Stitching | ||||||
|
3. Lubrication | ||||||
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4. Sanding | ||||||
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5. Puttying | ||||||
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6. Sanding | ||||||
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7. Wetting | ||||||
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8. Priming | ||||||
|
9. First coloring | ||||||
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10. Second coloring | ||||||
Note: 1. With high-quality surface painting, solid putty is added, followed by polishing.
2. The “+” sign indicates the processes, the implementation of which is mandatory.
Surface preparation and treatment technology
1. Cleaning
Cleaning - removal of dust, splashes and streaks of the solution from the surface with metal spatulas, scrapers, steel brushes, rags or mechanically. The same operations include the drying of individual damp places, the elimination of grease stains, efflorescence, rust, scale.
To remove oily stains, the surfaces are washed with a 5% solution of trisodium phosphate (washing powder) or soda ash, diluting them in water with a temperature of 30-40 ° C. After 0.5-1 hour, the surface is neutralized with a 5% hydrochloric acid solution.
When resinous substances appear on the plastered surface, the plaster is completely replaced.
Oil stains are removed with burnt magnesia paste mixed with gasoline, toluene or benzene.
Oil stains are removed with a paste consisting of two parts fluff lime and one part pumice powder (by weight).
Stains of non-drying oils are removed with oily clay applied to the stain with a layer of 3-4 mm. After drying, the clay is scraped off and the surface is washed.
Efflorescence is removed with metal brushes, the surface is washed with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid (5%), followed by rinsing with clean water and drying.
When repairing and restoring surfaces previously painted with chalk, adhesive, casein compounds, they are pre-moistened with water and scraped off; the covering layer of plaster is rubbed again with lime mortar on fine sand and, after drying, primed with a composition recommended for new painting.
In case of large damage or contamination of the plaster, it is advisable to replace it completely.
When repairing and restoring surfaces previously painted with oil, synthetic or enamel compounds, lagging layers should be removed. If the old paint holds firmly, it is not scraped off, but cleaned with sandpaper. Contaminated surfaces are washed with warm soapy water, and in case of significant contamination - with solvents (turpentine, kerosene, white spirit, gasoline). Oil paint is also removed chemically using pastes that soften the old paint layer, which is then easily scraped off.
The composition of the pastes:
Lime dough - 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (20% solution);
Sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, asbestos dust - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (20% solution).
The softened layer is scraped off with scrapers or spatulas, then washed with a 2% solution of acetic acid, then with clean water, wiped with a rag and dried.
2. Surface smoothing.
With the end of a tree, a piece of flaky stone (sandstone of hard rock) or sand-lime brick, roughness is eliminated and splashed with mortar when preparing new plastered surfaces.
3. Cutting knots and resins with jointing of cracks.
Cutting is done with carpentry tools. Cracks are embroidered with a metal spatula.
4. Jointing (cutting) cracks.
Jointing is carried out with a knife or a steel spatula to a depth of at least 2 mm for filling with putty. After smoothing and jointing cracks, the surface is carefully dedusted.
5. Priming (pro-oiling).
The cleaned and dust-free surface is primed to level and reduce its porosity, harden the surface layer of the base, improve adhesion with subsequent layers (putty, paint) and reduce the overall consumption of paint. To perform these functions, the primer must penetrate deep into the pores of the base and therefore must be thinner and more plastic than the paint that will be used in subsequent paint layers. The primer composition is selected in accordance with the binder of the coloring composition, most often a diluted coloring composition is used. Usually, manufacturers producing paint formulations recommend appropriate primers for them.
6. Partial greasing with grinding of lubricated places.
Embroidered and primed cracks, potholes, irregularities are filled with grease, and more often putties using metal or rubber spatulas.
First, the cracks are filled with transverse movements of the spatula, then the applied layer is leveled with the movements of the spatula along the cracks, achieving an even and smooth surface.
After the putty dries, it is sanded.
7. Priming of greased places.
Sanded places are dedusted and primed with the same primer that was used to prime the entire surface.
8. Solid putty.
It is produced with improved and high-quality painting of surfaces for leveling roughness and irregularities on plastered, wooden, concrete and other surfaces. It is applied with spatulas with metal, plastic or rubber blades. depending on the nature of the surface and the degree of preparation of the base.
If the irregularities cannot be eliminated with one continuous putty, the continuous putty is repeated (after grinding).
9. Sanding solid putty.
It is produced after complete drying and hardening of the putty layer with the help of devices into which sanding paper is attached. The dust formed after grinding is removed by sweeping and using vacuum cleaners.
10. Surface priming after solid putty.
The putty layer must be primed, as it, like the base, is quite porous.
11. Flattening the surface.
Flattening the surface, primed with a brush, is carried out immediately after applying the primer to a small area, until the primer has been absorbed into the putty layer. Produced with a flat brush with long and soft hair (flutz brush) to remove traces of a hard handbrake or flywheel. Flaking is not carried out when applying the primer with rollers or spray guns.
12. Grinding of the entire primed surface after it has dried.
It is produced with a fine sandpaper to remove individual protruding irregularities from accidental inclusions that have fallen into the primer, dust particles, etc. and creating some surface roughness for better adhesion with the subsequent paint layer.
13. First coloring.
It is produced after the completion of the entire complex of technological operations for the preparation and processing of the surface for painting.
14. Flattening (see item 11).
15. Grinding (see item 12).
16. Second coloring.
Completes the application of preparatory and painting layers. If all the previous operations were performed with high quality, then after the first painting the surface looks so good that there is no need for a second painting, which, nevertheless, is provided for by the standards.
17. Flattening or trimming.
These operations are purely decorative. Trimming is done with a trimming brush, the hair of which is fixed in the handle not along its axis, like with all other brushes, but perpendicularly. Striking such a brush with the ends of the hair on a completely painted surface achieves its uniform roughness and achieves the effect of silky dullness. Flaking enhances the gloss of oil-resin paints to a mirror finish. Flattening is possible only when using paints with a sufficiently long drying time, comparable to oil paints and the like. Flattening and facing are not done when using quick-drying paints and paints that give a matte texture when dried.
Painting work is one of the types of finishing of the premises. They include painting surfaces with paint.
Pre-painting work
In strict adherence to the technology of painting, it is important to pre-prepare the surfaces. It consists of several activities:
- elimination of cracks and any complex defects using plaster, putty, gypsum or other materials;
- careful alignment and smoothing of the formed seams by means of special devices or hand tools;
- wooden surfaces are carefully sanded and degreased before painting;
- cleaning the surface from a layer of building dust and priming with a liquid composition, which, when dried, will create a protective film and close all pores.
Remove old paint from the newly painted surface. It is cleaned with sandpaper or a special brush, or washed off with water if water-based paint was previously used.
Depending on the wishes of the owners of the premises, the surface is pasted over with specially designed wallpaper for painting or plastered with a thin layer of finishing plaster. After that, the walls or ceiling are primed once in order to save paint.
Painting tools and fixtures
The main tools for painting work are brushes and rollers.
painting tool kit Most professionals and hobbyists paint ceilings and walls with a soft roller. Its use creates a number of advantages when performing repairs:
- allows you to save paint;
- finishing material is applied in a uniform thin layer;
- an adjustable retractable handle makes it possible to paint the upper part of the wall and ceiling while standing on the floor;
- painting is easier and faster.
When performing painting work with a roller, a special plastic trough with a ribbed insert is used to remove excess paint. So that it can last a long time, it is inserted into a plastic bag, which is removed and thrown away at the end of the work, and the tray remains clean.
However, even when painting surfaces with a roller, it becomes necessary to use a brush. It is impossible to cover the corners or the complex relief of the base without it.
In preparation for the repair, be sure to purchase several items with bristles of different widths and thicknesses. Traditionally, horse hair is used to make brushes. Before buying a tool, carefully check the quality of the pile and the way it is attached. The most convenient and practical brush with a cone-shaped dense bristle, which, when deformed, is easily and quickly restored.
wall paint brush Tool size also matters. For a large amount of work, choose large objects with a bristle width of 150 mm. You may need small brushes of 25 mm, 12 mm.
Before putting the brush into work, it is soaked for several minutes in warm water. Poorly fixed villi will come out. The wooden handle will swell slightly and will hold the bristles more firmly. The pile itself will soften and become more elastic.
In the process of carrying out the work, the brush cannot be completely lowered into the paint; it is not recommended to collect a lot of the composition. First, excess paint will drip onto your hands. Secondly, the paint that got into the pile attachment to the handle will ruin the tool, and it will quickly become unusable.
When performing a significant amount of work in large areas, an airbrush is used, which applies paint by spraying. It allows you to create a smooth, uniform layer of finish. However, it is only suitable for applying water-based paints.
To use the tools in the future, after painting, they are washed with water or solvents (white spirit), dried and placed in a storage place.
Painting materials
To perform painting work, various paints and varnishes are used. The main one is paint. This is a composition made from binders with the addition of pigments.
Currently, surfaces are painted with acrylic, latex and other water-based paints. They adhere well to the surface, have excellent hiding power, dry quickly and are almost odorless. They can be used at any time of the year. The painted base will not fade or fade. it is easy to care for and can be quickly restored if necessary.
The mechanism of action of the paint is to create a thin decorative film that gives a certain color to the surface due to the presence of pigments in it. In addition, it protects walls and ceilings from mold and mildew.
Before applying paint, it is recommended to cover wooden surfaces with drying oil, which will prevent absorption of the base material and strengthen the base. For coloring wood, not only water-dispersion or water-based paints are used, but also enamels. However, they should be used only when absolutely necessary, as they smell strongly and dry for a long time.
Important nuances of painting
apply paint in several layers Surface painting is carried out in 1 or several steps. If the composition has a low or medium hiding power, it is necessary to apply it in 2-3 layers. Before you start the main work, you need to try on a small area how the coloring agent will go to bed.
Painting work is carried out in dry, warm weather with minimal humidity. In rain and fog, painting work is not recommended. The optimum air temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees. In the summer, windows are specially opened to allow air to circulate.
To work with a brush, containers of a smaller volume are used than the one in which the coloring composition is sold. The tool is lowered into the jar by ¼ bristles. Excess paint is removed by brushing along the edge of the container. Some craftsmen pull an elastic band over the edge of the can so as not to stain the edges.
If the paint is liquid, then it will certainly drain onto your hands. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out work with gloves or attach a half of a children's rubber ball to the handle. In the absence of a toy, you can adapt a piece from a plastic bottle. Just cut out a circle and insert the brush handle into it.
To ensure that the paint lays evenly and the hand does not get tired, the brush is held at a slight angle. It is carried out from top to bottom and from bottom to top, overlapping the previous one with a new layer of material. First of all, corners, protruding edges and hard-to-reach places are painted over, and then smooth surfaces.
Performing painting work
we carry out painting of the room by zones Depending on the tools used, the material and the nature of the surface, the technology for carrying out painting work is insignificant, but differs.
Brush painting - this is a rather time-consuming, but interesting process and it is worth using it in small rooms and rooms with a complex relief of walls and ceilings, for example, with stucco molding, various decorative inserts.
- Before starting painting, it is advisable to divide the space into zones: after finishing one, they begin to apply the product to another.
- To perform work at height, you need to take care of a stable stand in advance and place it at the most convenient distance from the fragment to be painted.
- When finishing the ceilings around the perimeter of the wall, masking tape is attached, which will not allow you to stain the wall. Conversely, the tape is glued to the top surface if the wall is being painted.
- To perform painting work with a brush, you can use a tool with a long handle, but it is not convenient for everyone.
- Having typed paint on the brush, with smooth, calm movements, the tool is drawn over the surface. Always start from the corners and joints between the ceiling and the wall. At the same time, several times are carried out in the same place in order to completely cover the base. It is important to make sure that there are no mistakes left.
- When the joints and protrusions are painted, you can start applying the finish to a flat surface. When covering vertical surfaces with a brush, they drive from top to bottom, from bottom to top. The ceiling is usually painted starting from the window, along the longest wall.
Roller painting - the most convenient and economical way to apply paint to the surface. However, it is applicable only on flat, smooth planes. Difficult terrain is not available for this tool.
- For work, choose a medium-sized roller with a comfortable handle. It is important to know that there are removable holders of different lengths for the convenience of painting ceilings and walls above.
- Before work, you should practice and try to move the object along the surface in order to choose a convenient rhythm and direction of work.
- Work with the roller begins after the corners, joints and protruding fragments are painted over with a brush.
- Paint is poured into a pre-prepared tray. It should be of medium consistency. Too thick must be diluted with water or a special agent.
- The roller is lowered into the container, the coloring composition is collected and the tool is passed several times along the ribbed insert, removing excess funds.
- They apply a roller to the wall and begin to drive it from the bottom up, overlapping the layers. In this case, it is necessary to press down the soft roller with a light effort so that all the paint from it passes to the plane.
- If gaps or unpainted areas are found, you should once again walk with a roller over the same area.
spray painting walls Spray painting has several advantages over previous methods of performing painting work. It is good for covering any surface. Using this method is fast and convenient. In this case, the finish coating becomes absolutely even and smooth.
However, the use of an airbrush is not always acceptable, since it is necessary to cover objects and those parts of the space that cannot be painted. If the room is finished with water-based paints, then this fact is not fundamental. This paint can be easily washed off.
Liquid formulations are used for the paint sprayer. They are poured into a special container, which is part of the apparatus. With the help of an electric drive, it starts to work.
A person drives a special pen close to the surface. At this time, the agent enters the spray grid through the hose and is distributed over the wall or ceiling. Working with this device, you can adjust the output of the coloring composition.
During the use of the paint sprayer, monitor the level of liquid in the container and add it if it runs out. The flask must not be completely empty, otherwise air will enter the hose, as a result of which an unregulated release of the coloring agent may occur.
Decorative staining methods
Often, according to the bold ideas of designers, complex painting work is carried out. This can be the application of a multi-layer coating using paints of different colors, artificial aging of the surface or the creation of the effect of volume and relief. For this purpose, various improvised means are used: foam rubber sponges, fabrics, brushes and more. Sometimes ornaments and interesting design images are drawn on a smooth surface using a stencil, which give the room a personality.
sponge technology
paint the walls with a regular sponge An unobtrusive spotted pattern is applied with an ordinary foam rubber sponge. Usually this is done with dark paint on a white surface, or vice versa, a light shade is distributed on a dark base. To create an original shimmering sheen, glossy paint is applied to a matte surface.
- When working with a sponge, undiluted water-based paint is used. It is poured into a tray and stirred well.
- The main layer of white paint or, conversely, dark color is applied to the wall. After it has completely dried, they begin to apply a decorative layer with a sponge.
- The sponge is moistened with water to make it soft and the liquid is squeezed out.
- An improvised tool is dipped into the paint and held over a ribbed insert, removing excess.
- Then, with a few jerky movements, run the sponge over a sheet of paper to dry it slightly.
- After that, the object with paint is applied to the wall, pressed and completely torn off, shifting it to another place.
- A kind of wetting of the plane occurs, as a result of which an original drawing is obtained. It can completely cover the wall, or mark some fragment of it.
Applying a decorative coating with a sponge is not particularly difficult. You can apply paint as you wish. There are no special rules in this creative process.
Dry brush technology
paint the room with a dry brush You can decorate the wall with a line drawing, which is done with a dry paint brush or a brush with hard bristles. This method is suitable for applying glazed composition, which includes varnish (70%), oil paint (20%) and mineral spirits (10%).
In this technique, the wall is covered with the main tone, on top of which the prepared glaze is applied. Without waiting for it to dry, strokes are carried out with a dry brush with quick movements. When solidified, they form an interesting ornament, reminiscent of blind rain. For the convenience of caring for the surface covered in this way, a layer of matte varnish based on polyurethane is applied to it.
The quality of painting works depends on the professionalism of the masters. They must know the technology of their implementation, know how to use paints and be able to apply them in different ways.