Then let's go ahead and talk about machine edge seams!
Machine edge seams are intended for processing the edges of parts and the bottom of the product. They are subdivided into edging and facing. I invite you to get acquainted with the most common of them.
Edging
Open cut hem seam- serves for the design of cuts of outerwear parts (bottom of the product, inner cuts of the hem ...), as well as edging of seams (in products without lining). Edging width - by model. The distance from the edging cut to the edging line is 0.3 - 0.7 cm.
Closed-cut edging- it is used for edging the cuts of parts (neckline, armholes, bottom of the product in light clothes ...) The width of the edging is also according to the model. The distance from the closed edge of the edging to the line is 0.1 - 0.3 cm.
Facing
Piping seam- we use when turning sides, valves, collars. The width of the turning seam is 0.5 - 0.8 cm. The seam sections must be trimmed: one less than the other by 0.2 - 0.7 cm. The edge size is from 0.1 - 0.4 cm. The distance from the edge of the edge to the line is by models.
Split seam- we use it for processing the sides at the bend of the lapel. In this case, when basting a seam, place the folds of the parts on the same level.
Frame seam- it is mainly used in the manufacture of facing loops and welt pockets. The width of the frame for loops is 0.3 - 0.5 cm. The width of the seam of the turning is 0.4 - 0.5 cm. The width of the frame for pockets is 0.5 - 0.6 cm, in some details - 1.5 cm. The frame is fixed with a line into the seam of the facing of the facing or at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam of the attaching of the facing from the wrong side of the seam allowance.
Open hem or overcast hem- we use it when processing the bottom of products and sleeves, when overlapping the inner edges of the hem, facing the neckline, the bottom of the sleeves ... The distance from the hem edge to the line - according to the model (optional). The distance from the cut to the line is 0.3 - 0.5 cm. The distance from the folded edge to the sewing line is 0.1 - 0.3 cm, to the zigzag line is 0.2 - 0.7 cm.
Closed hem hem- it is used for overcasting the edges of parts, the bottom of products and sleeves, the bottom of the lining, inner cuts of the hem, facing in products without lining. The distance from the folded edge of the part to the inner hem is by model. The width of the inner hem is 0.5 - 0.7 cm. The distance from the folded edge of the part to the edge of the inner hem is 0.4 - 0.5 cm. The width of the inner hem is 0.3 - 0.4 cm.
Hem seam with hem- serves for covering the bottom of trousers, skirts. Edging width - by model. The distance from the piping seam to the seam is 0.1 - 0.3 cm.
Hem seam with stitched lining- it is mainly used for covering the bottom of jackets and jackets. The width of the lining seam is 0.7 - 0.8 cm. The distance from the folded edge of the part to the line is according to the model. The amount of bending of the part is 3 - 4 cm.
These are the interesting seams. I wish you success in mastering them! Try to sew each seam on a piece of fabric for practical skill. And if you have any questions, ask in the comments to this article or at.
© Olga Marizina
Machine seams.
Connecting.
The following requirements are imposed on seams made on a sewing machine:
Machine stitches should be straight;
- the width of the seam must be even (the same);
- stitches should be uniform in frequency;
- the density of the tightening of the stitches should be the same, the interlacing of the threads should be between the layers of the material;
- the lines should be solid, without gaps;
- there should be no waviness of the material along the seam line;
- the seam must be strong (in this case, the threads you use play an important role);
- Place the seam allowances to the right of the needle and the main parts to the left.
Machine seams
The seams that connect the parts of the product from all types of fabrics are called connecting... The seam is sewn with a straight two-thread stitch. The details of the product lie on either side of the seam.
Connecting seams include: stitching, invoice, stitching, butt-sewing, sewing, double seams.
Shoulder, side cuts, sleeve cuts are grinded with connecting seams, side cuts, step cuts, middle cuts, etc. are connected in trousers.
Seam
We fold the details with the front sides inward, equalize the cuts and sweep or pin off with pins across the chalk line;
- Sew the sections with a straight stitch. Be sure to do bartacks at the beginning and at the end of the stitching. The width of the seam allowance is from 0.5 to 1.5-2 cm;
- We sweep the sections. If the seam is ironed, then we sweep both cuts at the same time. If the seam is crocheted, then we sweep each cut separately;
- Remove the basting thread and perform a wet-heat treatment of the seam by ironing it (Fig. 3) or crocheting it (Fig. 2) or leaving the seam on the "edge" (Fig. 0).
Applique seam
Overhead seams can be made with an open cut or with a closed cut.
Applique seam with open cut(Fig. 4.) is performed by overlapping the cuts with 1.5-2 cm overlapping each other. The line is laid parallel to the cuts of the parts.
Another type of patch seam with open cut(Fig. 5.) is done like this:
A part with a bent and ironed edge is applied, combining the sections, on the front side of another part and swept;
- The machine line is laid parallel to the bent cut of the part. The seam allowances remain open. In this way, you can connect the yoke to the lower part of the back.
Closed-cut patch seam(fig. 6) is performed as follows:
We bend a cut of one of the parts to the side of the wrong side by 1-1.5 cm and iron it;
- We put the ironed edge of the part on another part and sweep it;
- We lay the machine line, retreating from the ironed edge by 0.1-1 cm, that is, depending on the model. The cut of the seam allowance of part (a) is covered by both parts.
Stitching stitch
Tack seams can be sewn with open and with one closed slice.
Stitching stitch with open slices(fig. 7) is done like this:
Fold the parts with the right side inward and lay the seam stitch (1) on the seamy side of the parts;
- We bend the part (a) and lay the second line (2) on the front side of the part, parallel to the folded edge. Seam allowances for both parts remain open.
An adjustment stitch with one closed cut (Fig. 8) is performed as follows:
Fold the parts with the right side inward and lay a sewing line on the seamy side of the parts;
- We bend the part (a) and lay the second line on the front side, parallel to the folded edge of the part. The cut of the seam allowance of the part (a) is closed with the second line.
Butt seam
Butt seam with closed cuts on one side with a strip of fabric(fig. 9) or braid runs like this:
Two parts (b and c) are placed on the lower part or braid (a), combining the butt-cut sections of both parts. The joining line is placed in the middle of the lower part or braid (a);
- Details (b and c) are sewn onto the lower detail or braid with one zigzag stitch (1). Can be stitched with two parallel lines (1 and 2) (Fig. 10 a).
- In order for the connection to be strong, you can apply two strips of fabric or braid, placing them under the joining line and above the joining line. In this case, the processed sections will be closed on both sides (Figure 10 b).
Butt seam can be manufactured belt loops(Figure 10 c). It is more convenient to cut out a long strip from the fabric for making belt loops, make one long blank belt loops, and then cut the required number of belt loops of the required length.
We sew the cuts of the belt loops on an overlock or zigzag stitch;
- Bend the cuts of the belt loops to the wrong side and lay two parallel machine lines;
- We iron the belt loops.
In products made of cotton fabrics, belt loops can be made in another way (Fig. 10 d).
We sweep one longitudinal cut of the belt loop on the overlock;
- With the overcast cut of the belt loops, we overlap the not overcast cut and lay two machine lines. In this case, the distance from the folded edges to the lines is 0.3 cm;
- We iron the belt loops.
Seam seam
Seam seam(Fig. 12) is used mainly for the manufacture of bed linen.
We fold the two parts with the front sides inward, release the cut of the lower part (b) by the size of the seam width in the finished form 0.6-0.7 cm and add another 0.2 cm.With the lower part (b) the cut of the upper part (a) and we lay a sewing line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the cut;
- We lay out the parts in different directions, bend the seam to the side, close the smaller cut, lay the second line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the folded edge.
When cutting parts, keep in mind that the seam allowance of the upper part is equal to the finished seam width (0.6-0.7 cm). From the side of the bottom part, double the finished seam width (1.2-1.4 cm) and add 0.2-0.3 cm.
Edge and finishing.
Edge seams
Edge seams are used to process the edges of various parts. The details in this case lie on one side of the seam (edge seams are used to process the bottom of the sleeves, the bottom of any product, flounces, frill, chill mold, frills, etc.).
Open hem hem(fig. 13) is done like this:
We pre-sweep the cut of the part, fold it on the wrong side by 0.5-0.7 cm and sweep it;
- We lay the machine line at a certain distance from the edge, depending on the model;
- If, according to the model, the machine (hemming) stitch should not be visible from the front side, then the seam allowance is hemmed with manual blind stitches;
- We iron the seam.
Closed hem seam is performed like this (fig. 14):
The cut of the part to be processed is bent to the wrong side by 0.7 - 1.0 cm, we notice;
- Iron on the folded edge without capturing the prominent line;
- Then we put the folded edge on the part, by the amount of the allowance provided by the model, and we sew a machine line or sew it by hand with blind stitches;
- We remove the threads of sweeping;
- We iron it.
Piping seam
Edge seam(fig. 15) cuffs, collars, valves, straps, bead edges are processed. We form the edging from the part located on the front side of the product so that the other part and the seam are not visible.
We carry out the seam as follows:
We fold the two parts with the front sides inward, equalize the cuts and grind (line 1). Seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm for light clothing, 0.3-0.4 cm - for outerwear;
- We carefully cut the seam allowance in the corners, on curved sections we notch or cut the seam allowance, not reaching the turning line by 0.1-0.3 mm;
- Unscrew the part of the product to the front side, carefully straighten the corners;
- We straighten the edging. Edge size 0.1-0.2 mm. We sweep the edging;
- We iron the part carefully with slight moisture;
- We remove the embroidery threads;
- We iron the part again;
- It is possible to lay a frustrating line (2) by bending the seam allowance towards the part that will not be visible from the front side of the product;
- If a finishing line is provided, then we lay it on the front side of the part. In this case, the frustrating line does not need to be inserted. The finishing stitch can be sewn 0.1-2 cm from the edge, depending on the model.
Frame overcast, plain
A seam (fig. 16) is used for processing stitched loops and welt pockets. The width of the frame is 0.3-0.5 cm. The seam is sewn with one line.
We bend the part from which the frame will be made in half, with the wrong side inward and iron it;
- We mark with chalk or soap on the front side the line for sharpening the frame, we also mark the transverse lines, from the beginning to the end of which the machine line will be laid;
- We put the facing with the front side on the front side of the main part, mark and grind it with a seam 0.5-0.7 cm wide from the edge. We fix the beginning and end of the line;
- Iron on the stitching seam. Then we bend the part near the line and iron it again.
Edging seam
The seam is used for edging seam with closed cuts (Fig. 17) for processing the edges of parts in light women's and children's clothing (flounces, frills, bottom of products).
A ready-made bias tape for edging cuts can be purchased at the store.
We bend the finished bias tape lengthwise and press it on;
- Place the edge of the workpiece between the sides of the inlay and sweep;
- We adjust the binding with machine stitching at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge.
You can make a bias binding yourself.
To do this, cut out a strip of fabric 3-4 cm wide, at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads;
- Fold the cut out strip of fabric with the wrong side inside and iron it;
- Apply the ironed strip to the front side of the part to which the strip will be sharpened, equalize the cuts. We grind the inlay (Fig. 18 a) at a distance of 0.3-0.5 cm;
- We bend around the seam sections and lay another line on the front side (Fig. 18 b) at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge;
- Iron the edging.
Finishing seams
Finishing seams are used for finishing various products. Finishing seams include folds, raised seams, piped seams.
Embossed seams
Embossed seams include topstitching, tucking, lining up with a cord, topstitching embossed seams.
Stitching seams(fig. 19) are made on the front or seamy side of the part. Basically, with this type of seam, folds are stitched on the products. The distance from the fold line to the line is 0.1-0.2 cm.
Stitching seam with cord(fig. 20) is used for finishing light women's clothing and coats. To make a seam, you need a special foot with a groove in the sole.
From the inside out, the parts are covered with a strip of the main fabric and the first machine line is laid on the front side along the pre-marked line;
- Insert a cord between the layers of fabric and lay the second line.
Nesting complicated the seam (Fig. 24 c) is performed as follows:
On the front side of the part, we outline the seam line;
- From the inside of the part, we put a strip of fabric. The middle of the strip should line up with the marked line. From the front side along the outlined line we grind a strip of fabric (Fig. 24 a);
- We bend the part along the seam where the strip is stitched with the front side inward, bend it to one side, and the stitched strip to the other side;
- On the front side of the part, we outline the sewing line;
- We lay the second line at a distance of 1-2 mm from the fold. We reduce the line at the end to nothing. In this case, a relief is formed on the front side (Fig. 24 b);
- To fix a strip of fabric, bend it to one side of the part and lay a line according to the model on the front side of the main part (Fig. 24 c).
Simple folds
Simple folds may be finishing which in turn can be unilateral or bilateral.
The fabric in simple folds is folded in a straight line or with a slight bend. Simple finishing folds are made from one piece.
V simple finishing one-sided fold the folds of the fabric are directed to one side on the front side and to the other side on the wrong side of the part (Fig. 25 b). The fabric allowance for cutting is equal to twice the depth of the fold. (If the finished fold is 3 cm, then the allowance is 6 cm).
On the seamy side of the part, we outline a fold with three lines:
The side line is the line of the outer fold of the fold;
The midline is the inner fold line;
- We lay the seam stitch up to the third line, which limits the length of the fold stitching. We fix the end of the line (fig. 25 a);
- Iron on the folds;
- On the front side, you can lay a finishing line;
- Remove the basting thread on the unstitched section of the fold.
May be counter, while the folds of the fabric are directed towards each other (Fig. 26).
Depth allowance for each counter fold is equal to the depth of one fold of the fold multiplied by 4. For example, the depth of one fold is 4 cm, then the allowance is 16 cm.
We mark the opposite folds from the seamy side with three lines:
the middle line,
the third line is the line that defines the end of the fold.
- We bend the part along the middle line with the front side inward and sweep it along the side line;
- We lay the sewing line up to the third line. We fix the end of the line;
- On the stitched section, remove the sweeping thread;
- Place the part face down, lay the fold allowance on both sides of the seam stitch. The middle line must be located necessarily along the seam seam;
- Along the upper cut, we fix the folded fold across with a machine stitch;
- Iron on the folds;
Simple finishing double-sided pleats may be bow(fig. 27) when the folds of the fabric from the front side are directed in opposite directions. Bow pleat represents the seamy side of the opposite fold. The allowance for the depth of each bow fold is equal to the depth of one fold of the fold multiplied by 4. For example, the depth of one fold is 5 cm, then the allowance is 20 cm.
We mark the bow folds on the front side with three lines:
the middle line,
side line - the line of the outer folds,
the third line is the line that defines the end of the fold.
- We bend the part along the middle line with the wrong side inward and sweep it along the side line;
- Place the sewing stitch up to the third line that limits the sewing length of the fold. We fix the end of the line;
- At the sewing area, remove the sweeping threads;
- On the stitched section, remove the sweeping thread;
- Place the part with the wrong side down, lay the fold allowance on both sides of the stitching line. The middle line must be located necessarily along the seam seam;
- Along the upper cut, we fix the folded fold across with a machine stitch;
- Iron on the folds;
- On the front side, you can lay a finishing stitch, including one that secures the folds in width.
Applique seam with piping(Fig. 29 b) is performed as follows:
We cut out a strip of fabric for making edging;
- Fold in half inside out and iron on;
- On the front side of the lower part we put a strip folded in half and grind it at a distance from the fold equal to the edging width plus the stitching width (Fig. 29 a);
- On the upper part, iron the hem allowance on the seamy side;
- We put the upper part face up, overlapping with an ironed edge, an allowance for edging, and stitch it. The distance from the ironed edge to the line is set from 0.1 cm at will (Fig. 29 b);
- Iron on the seam from the seamy side.
Machine seams: stitch, laid on, hem
REQUIREMENTS FOR MACHINE SEAMS
machine lines should be straight; the width of the seam must be even (the same); the stitches should be uniform in frequency; the tightening density of the stitches should be the same, the weave of the threads should be between the layers of the material; the lines should be solid, without gaps; there should be no waviness of the material along the seam line; the seam must be strong (in this case, the threads you use play an important role); Place seam allowances to the right of the needle and main parts to the left.
Machine terminology
Term Content of work Application
Stitch Machine-stitch together two pieces Stitch side or shoulder seams
Stitching Connect small parts with the main ones Stitching bib, belt, frill, pockets
stitching Connect the two parts with a machine stitch by placing one part with the wrong side on the front side of the other part Stitch the belt parts on the side seams of the lower part of the apron or topstitch the pocket
Stitching Join two pieces along the edge and turn out Stitching bib, shoulder straps, neckline
Tie-on Fasten the folded edge of the part or product with a stitching Stitch on the bottom of the product, the top edge of the pocket
Sewing Sewing finishing stitching Sewing around the edge of the bib
MACHINE SEAMS
CONNECTING
EDGE
FINISHING
STACHNOY
OVERHEAD
ADJUSTMENT
DISTRIBUTION
BELOW with open cut
WHEELING
CLOSED BEND
FOLDING one-sided counter bow
STITCH SEAM with piping
RELIEF SEAMS
CLASSIFICATION OF SEAMS
Seam
scattered
ironing
8
Stitch seam
Fold out and press the seam allowances
9
Stitch seam
Fold in seam allowances on one side and press iron
Fold the parts with the right sides inward, equalize the cuts, sweep and grind. Joint width 20 mm
Applique seam
Open cut
Closed slice
Hem seam
Open cut
Closed slice
12
Open hem hem
Stitch at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded cut. Press the seam down.
Fold the cut by 7 mm and press it on.
13
Closed hem hem
Fold back 20 mm a second time, sweep
Fold in the cut, sweep in 7 mm and iron.
Sew on 1-2 mm from the first hem. Press the seam down.
Practical work
Sewing machine seams Sew the following machine seams and arrange them in the table
No. Name of seam Sample Designation Method of execution
1 Stitching 1. Fold the 2 pieces together, right sides inward 2. Align the cuts on one side 3. Machine stitch 1 cm from the edge of the pieces 4. Press the seam allowances on both sides
Stitch with a seam
1 2 3 4 5
2 Stitch iron 1 - 3. These points are performed in the same way as for seam No. 4. Press the seam allowances together on one side
3 Open-cut overlay 1. Place one piece on top of the other 2 cm 2. Sew with a 1 cm wide seam 3. Press iron on
1 2 3 4 5
4 Overlay with closed edge Fold in 2 cm of the part. Press on. Press on one part.
1 2 3 4 5
5 Fold in with an open cut Fold 1 edge 2 cm Press it in Tack with a 1.5 cm seam Press it in
6 Fold in with closed edge Fold 1 edge 1 cm Iron in Fold in same edge 2 cm Press Iron Close with 7 mm seam (per machine foot) Press Iron
Edge seams are used to process the edges of products: bottom of sleeves, bottom of products, i.e. if you need to process the edge of the product, then you can choose one of the proposed seam options. You can design other edge seams yourself.
Hem seams
It is mainly used for light fabrics (in heavy fabrics, this seam can be squeezed from the front side), or in the absence of an overlock. With this seam, the cut is well protected from shedding the fabric. They are used for processing the bottom of skirts, trousers, shirts, cardigans, jackets, jackets, etc.
Hem seam with open cut (picture # 1).
Such a seam can be used when the fabric does not crumble at all.
Additional explanations if the fabric is crumbling:
Such a seam can be used with additional operations: if our sewn seam is hemmed (line 1 in the figures), then we put it on top of another fabric and sew on this edge (figure 2, line 2). Often this is done when the product is then put on a lining, then it will completely cover all the ugly inside.
Or, for example, such a seam can be used when the knot is thought out in such a way that the cuts are not visible from the inside out, because, for example, this edge is completely sewn on (picture No. 3).
Line # 2 can be laid anywhere, you can even clearly in line # 1.
But if you are not laying in line # 1, you need to make sure that your folded cut of fabric is captured by line # 2, so that the cut of the allowance does not come out onto your face.
Open hem seam (with overlock)... First, the cut is overlocked from the face, then tucked in, then ironed on, and then attached. Suitable for heavier fabrics for processing the bottom of skirts, trousers, shirts, cardigans, jackets, etc. In case of frequent use with wear and tear of the fabric, the cut may be scattered (e.g. a towel).
Option 1. For processing jackets, jackets.
Option 2. For processing jackets, jackets, jackets. When sewing the second line, the bottom is better secured.
Hem seam with hem... But. - warp thread. It is used if it is necessary to process the edge in the absence of an overlock. The seam will look very elegant and beautiful from the inside out. It is rarely used and only for light tissues. The edging is cut out at an angle of 45 degrees, otherwise the bottom will not be laid out.
By adding a piping layer before sewing on stitch 2, the seam can be applied to heavy fabrics. So, for example, you can process the sides in a coat.
