Do-it-yourself installation of a suspended ceiling made of pvc. How to make a plastic ceiling with your own hands - a step by step guide. We mount a false ceiling from plastic panels

Plastic finishing panels are a material that differs from analogues by a combination of low cost, ease of installation and good visual characteristics. The popularity of this material is constantly growing, as is the range of plastic products. On the market you can find a variety of panels - plain and multi-colored, striped, plaid, with various patterns and images.

However, if we are talking about panels for the ceiling, then the most popular are the details of light shades. The surface of the parts can be glossy or matte, rough or partially shiny, which is achieved through small inserts. Since plastic panels are most often used in small spaces, the choice usually falls on glossy products - they create the illusion of a raised ceiling, as a result of which the room seems more spacious than it really is. In addition, shiny panels reflect light, which allows you to save a little on the power of lighting fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic

There are two polar opinions about whether plastic can be used in a residential building. Some argue that this material is a danger to human health and violates the correct living conditions in the house. Others consider plastic completely harmless and quite suitable for residential use. Before making a plastic ceiling, it is worth examining all the qualities of the material used.

Understanding this issue in more detail, then all opinions “against” plastic do not stand up to criticism. In particular, it is immediately worth remembering that a huge number of plastic products are used in everyday life - and they are used not only in industrial sectors, but also in medicine and in the food industry. Various items made of plastic are found in large quantities in bathrooms, kitchens and living areas, where plastic is present in almost every household appliance. One of the advantages is that you can make a false ceiling with your own hands from PVC panels, since this work is not difficult.

Plastic itself is a monolithic material without any cracks, gaps and pores. This quality suggests that it does not create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and other microorganisms. Of course, in the presence of a nutrient medium, bacteria can multiply on the surface of the plastic - but in this case, you can get rid of them with an ordinary rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant. An indirect sign of the bacteriological safety of plastic products is the fact that they are approved for use in medical institutions.

The second argument of opponents of plastic parts is high flammability. At first glance, it may seem that this is justified - plastic begins to actively burn at temperatures above +360 degrees. But even this argument, upon a detailed study of the issue, cannot be called a lack of plastic - for example, wood fiber boards light up at a temperature of +250 degrees, i.e. their ignition threshold is much lower. In addition, an open flame is dangerous not only in itself, but also because of the smoke that is released in the process - and in this indicator, plastic outperforms its closest competitors, emitting 50% less smoke when burned.

The last imaginary drawback of plastic products is complete tightness. And this factor can also be ignored - the ceiling design is rarely completely airtight, so there will still be minimal air exchange. Both in private houses and in apartments, the issue of ventilation is solved very simply - one grate is built into the opposite edges of the ceiling, each of which gives the ceiling the ability to "breathe". In addition, when mounting a suspended plastic ceiling in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), ventilation will have to be done, regardless of the material used to make the ceiling and the type of housing.

Classification of plastic ceiling panels

There are two main types of PVC panels:

• Ceiling, which have reduced weight and strength, since high mechanical strength is irrelevant for the ceiling;
• Wall, stronger and more rigid products that are more expensive and not designed for use on the ceiling (of course, they can be installed, but this is simply impractical).

Ceiling panels can vary in size and surface type:

• Rack products - visually they resemble ordinary lining, i.e. these are just strips, only made of plastic;
• Seamless panels, which represent an almost solid surface with almost imperceptible joints (the elements are connected to each other by means of a lateral tongue and groove joint);
• Sheet ceiling plastic is a rather rare and difficult to process material that is best suited for finishing columns or other non-linear surfaces (it is practically not used in domestic construction).

Before you assemble the ceiling from plastic panels, you need to choose the best option for specific conditions. Regardless of the type of panels, they are all easy to wet clean and are of good quality. Good panels can last up to 10 years - and here we are only talking about visual characteristics, and the full service life can be an order of magnitude longer.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Installation of ceiling panels can be carried out according to two concepts:

• Suspended ceiling, which is equipped as a separate structure;
• Standard plastic ceiling, in which all elements are attached directly to the main ceiling surface.

Regardless of the chosen scheme, when installing plastic on the ceiling, you need to use moldings. These elements are finishing profiles that are necessary to mask the ends and joints of the structure. The choice of the type and size of moldings directly depends on the configuration of the future ceiling and the characteristics of the room.

Suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling structures - this is a fairly popular way to finish the ceiling, which has a number of characteristic advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of such structures is the absence of the need to prepare a strobe for laying communications - and this is essential, because thanks to this, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is significantly simplified.

On the other hand, a suspended plastic ceiling always takes away part of the free volume of the room. In the most successful scenario, such a ceiling will lower the level of the room by 3 cm - but this is only subject to the installation of conventional lighting fixtures. To install recessed lights, the ceiling will have to be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the main level. The only way to reduce this distance is to use LED lamps, which, with sufficient quantity and power, can replace traditional lighting.

Frame installation

Before you make a suspended ceiling from panels, you need to assemble a frame for it:

• The main structural element will be guides, which are most often used as standard profiles for mounting drywall sheets. In dry rooms, you can successfully use a regular plastic panel ceiling profile, and for rooms with high humidity, it is best to take galvanized products. However, you can take a completely different path and make a frame of wooden bars with a section of 30x30 mm or more.
• Profile elements are fixed along the perimeter of the room in compliance with the level. Further, with the help of suspensions or bars in increments of 50-60 cm, intermediate guides are attached. All guides for the ceiling of plastic panels must be strictly level. To align the intermediate elements, it is worth pulling the threads between the parts of the perimeter and focus on them.
• If the suspended structure is located at a minimum distance from the main one, then the strips can be attached directly to the ceiling surface. To adjust the level in this case, you can use various linings made of pieces of wood or plywood. It is necessary to calculate the structure so that a corrugation 3 cm thick can pass under it.

Setting up the starting strips

After assembling the frame, you can start installing the starting profiles:

1. To work, you need to take a ceiling molding. It is attached to the frame elements located around the perimeter of the room. The edges of the moldings must be cut so that the angle is exactly 45 degrees. The length also needs to be calculated and measured very accurately - even a minimal deviation will lead to noticeable gaps. Of course, small gaps can be masked with putty, but it would be much better to cut the parts in advance so that they fall into place with a little space.
2. To fix the bar, you can use adhesive or self-tapping screws. Moldings are recommended to be glued with liquid nails - in this case, a perfect joint is obtained. When using other fasteners, the bar will turn forward a little.
3. The edge directed towards the wall is covered with a zigzag strip of glue. The wall must be degreased before joining. The plank is mounted in its place, pressed tightly along the entire length and removed, after which glue remains on the wall surface. When it dries a little (about 5 minutes), you can finally install the bar, be sure to check it for alignment - until the glue has completely hardened, it can be corrected.
4. When three profiles are glued, you need to leave them until the glue has completely hardened, which usually takes from 8 to 12 hours. Then you can continue with the installation. During the installation process, liquid nails can squeeze out, and you should not remove them immediately - they will be smeared on the wall and ceiling details. You need to wait until the glue dries completely and carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

Fixing plastic panels

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels:

1. When mounting a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, you first need to determine the length of the panels. To do this, you need to measure the distance between the joints of the skirting boards and add about 1.5 cm to it. You do not need to cut the parts in accordance with the length or width of the room - in this case they will not go into the profile. With ideal room geometry, you can cut a lot of parts, but this is rarely the case, so it is best to prepare the panels as they are attached.
2. The first panel comes with three edges into the molding. You need to install the panel with the spike forward so that it connects to the bar. When using soft finishing profiles, the mounting shelf can bend and create certain difficulties. To get rid of this phenomenon, you can slightly fix this edge with self-tapping screws. You can also use a spatula, filling the edge of the panel with it. An important point - the panel should immediately go into the profile along the entire length. The mounted elements are immediately attached to the rails using self-tapping screws or a construction stapler if the frame was assembled from wooden elements.
3. Further installation of a plastic suspended ceiling looks exactly the same for each individual panel. First, one edge of the strip is inserted into the molding by 6-7 mm, then the other is inserted. The mounted bar is leveled and carefully driven in so that the lock fits into the groove. To check how well the strip is installed, you need to look at it from below - if there is no noticeable gap at the junction, then everything is in order.
4. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands is best done with an assistant - he can hold the mounted panel until it is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult to cope with this work alone, but there is a way out - to eliminate the deflection of the bar on the profile, you can stick small pieces of double-sided tape.
5. When mounting suspended ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands, you need to remember that it is necessary to cut holes for lamps in each panel - and for this you need to know in advance exactly where they will be installed. For cutting, you can use any suitable tool - for example, a drill with an annular nozzle. You need to insert fixtures, connect and check them immediately - after the ceiling is fully assembled, this work simply will not work.

Before you make a false ceiling made of plastic, you need to carefully understand the described technology and follow it during installation. However, at this stage, the installation of the structure does not end.

Mounting the last panel

At the stage of installing the last plastic part, a lot of problems arise. All these problems are related to the size and features of the fastening of this element. However, everything is simple with dimensions - the bar is cut in accordance with the actual dimensions of the ceiling in its current form.

Further events can develop according to two scenarios:

1. The trimmed panel is inserted into the glued starter profile or ceiling plinth for plastic panels. To make this possible, the panel must be cut so that it is 5-7 mm shorter than the existing gap - otherwise it cannot be installed. This option for attaching the last strip has a significant drawback - it ends up being shorter than necessary. Over time, the strip will sink a little into the molding, and a small gap will appear on the ceiling between the last and previous strip.
2. The strip can not only be inserted, but also glued. In this case, when cutting, you must observe the actual dimensions of the gap between the frame and the penultimate panel. The technology of gluing the strip looks exactly the same as with all other panels. The disadvantage of this method is that the last panel turns out to be non-removable, and if necessary, it will have to be broken to get to the interior of the ceiling.

When all the panels are mounted, it remains to install only the last plinth. A mounting plate is cut off from it and corners are cut (necessarily at 45 degrees). After making sure that the plinth is cut correctly, it can be smeared with glue on both sides, and installed in its place.

Sealing with acrylic

With how to make a plastic ceiling, everything is clear - but there is one more step that needs to be completed in the vast majority of cases. We are talking about sealing the seams of the structure with white acrylic. When using high-quality panels with the correct geometry, you will not need to adjust the design.

The technology for filling joints is quite simple:

1. You need to take acrylic sealant and fill it with a mounting gun. Using a gun, you need to carefully close up all the gaps, joints between the panels, plinth and ceiling, as well as corner sections. As a rule, there are a lot of noticeable gaps in the structure, so it’s worth taking a good walk around the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
2. You need to fill the gaps in small sections of about 30-40 cm. All excess must be removed during the sealing process, and the seam must be leveled. Acrylic has a very high curing speed, so it must be corrected immediately upon application. To remove excess acrylic, you can use a soft cloth or just your finger. The hardening excess is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula, after which everything is rubbed with a damp sponge and left to dry completely for 8-12 hours.
3. Acrylic, when solidified, may decrease in volume, being drawn into the cavity of the seam. In this case, it is recommended to walk around the entire perimeter of the structure again. As a rule, two passes are enough to fully seal the entire ceiling. The stains remaining on the surface of the ceiling are wiped first with a damp sponge, and then the panels are polished with a soft cloth.

Fixing plastic panels to the main ceiling

If there is no need to level the main ceiling, then you can attach plastic panels directly to it. The sequence of work in this case completely coincides with the technology described above: first of all, the starting profile is mounted, panels adjusted to the dimensions are mounted in it, which are attached in increments of no more than 50 cm.

The selection of fasteners in this case directly depends on the material from which the ceiling is made:

• For wooden structures, small nails or staples of a construction stapler are quite suitable;
• In the case of concrete, it would be best to assemble the frame and install it at a minimum distance from the ceiling, because self-tapping screws will not go into such an overlap, and drilling separate holes for dowels is too troublesome and impractical;
• Liquid nails also remain relevant, but when using them, you need to take into account the fact that the design will eventually turn out to be non-separable.

Before you make a plastic ceiling, you need to select all the elements in advance and purchase them in the required quantity.

Lamps in the plastic ceiling

The selection of the number of lamps and their design is a purely individual matter, so it is pointless to discuss it. Much more important is the choice of the type of lamps and the features of their power supply. For plastic ceilings, 220 V lamps are suitable, represented by incandescent or economical lamps, and lamps with a 12 V step-down transformer - halogen and LED products.

Luminaires powered by a 220 V network and represented by incandescent lamps with a power of more than 40 W must be installed in a thermally insulated housing. It's all about heating the lamp during operation, because of which the plastic can darken and deform over time. So that the increase in temperature does not affect the plastic, and thermal insulation is used.

You also need to pay attention to the safety rules when using a 220 V network. When installing a lamp in a bathroom or kitchen, it must be protected from direct water ingress. Of course, devices with such a degree of protection are more expensive, and the dimensions of such lamps are quite large. For the installation of moisture-resistant lamps, it will be necessary to install mortgages when installing the ceiling frame.

With halogen and LED lamps, the situation is somewhat simpler, since they work from 12 V, and the electrical safety rules in this case are not so strict. When using such fixtures, power is supplied through an automatic machine, which must be installed regardless of the type and characteristics of lighting fixtures, to the transformer, and from it directly to the fixtures.

One transformer provides power to 4 lamps, but the length of the wire between the lamp and the transformer should be no more than 2 m. This rule is primarily due to the stability and characteristics of the supplied voltage - an increase in the length of the wire leads to a significant decrease in the intensity of illumination. When installing in the bathroom, this can become a serious problem - the transformer will have to be hidden somehow.

Conclusion

A plastic ceiling is a rather convenient, attractive and profitable solution. The visual characteristics of this design are quite good and suitable for many styles, and the ease of installation allows you to assemble a plastic ceiling even in the absence of relevant experience.

Until recently, we could not even imagine what could be done with the ceiling, except to whitewash or cover with a water-based emulsion. If you wanted something "cheerful", they covered it with wallpaper. With the advent of new building materials in our lives, completely new ceiling finishing technologies began to appear. The arsenal of such design solutions includes the installation of stretch, suspended, mineral, glass, mirror, stained glass, plasterboard ceilings, as well as sheathed with wooden or plastic panels. Let's talk today how to make a plastic ceiling.

Features of plastic ceilings

Plastic panels for such ceilings are made of polyvinyl chloride - a safe and harmless material. In our country, PVC panels are used everywhere for finishing ceilings and walls, as well as for the manufacture of containers for food and products. So do not doubt the environmental friendliness of the material.

It is important to remember that plastic panels for walls and ceilings are different, and it is not recommended to buy one to replace the other. Ceiling panels are much lighter, and this is an important detail, although their mechanical strength is much lower. If you use wall panels when installing the ceiling, there will be a large load on the frame, and this is not very safe. And using plastic panels for the ceiling when decorating walls, you can observe their deformation over time.

The plastic ceiling is a type of false ceilings. A plastic sheathing is mounted on the frame, which is attached with special suspensions. For the frame you need wooden slats (you can use a metal profile). For the manufacture of the ceiling itself, you can use simple inexpensive materials, but it is better to invest in better plastic. Fixing plastic panels on the ceiling is provided by skirting boards for plastic ceilings and a shaped profile.

When installing plastic ceilings, there is one caveat. The appearance of the surface depends on the selected panels. When buying glossy panels, the joining seams on such a ceiling will be hardly noticeable, they are practically invisible. The glossy ceiling is a reflective surface that looks quite original. If you plan to make a ceiling of matte, colored and patterned panels, then be prepared that the seams will be visible quite clearly.

Advantages of a plastic ceiling

If you, when making repairs in your apartment, are planning to make a plastic ceiling, your choice is quite far-sighted, because such a ceiling has many advantages. Firstly, if your neighbors flood you, the plastic ceiling will not have to be redone, and if the flooding is not serious, you will not notice anything at all. And this is a big plus, because the ceiling, pasted with wallpaper or whitewashed, would have to be whitewashed or glued a second time.

At the end of the work, you will receive a perfectly flat ceiling, which, if desired, can be washed with water or detergents. But even if you do not bother to take care of the plastic ceiling, it still will not lose its beauty and originality. Even in the event of a temperature difference, the ceiling will retain its flat surface. Wallpapered ceilings fade over time, and plastic ones will retain their appearance for many years.

With the help of such a ceiling, you can not only hide large irregularities or pipes, but also turn them into a particle of the interior by arranging beautiful modern lamps in that place. The ceiling can be made not only smooth, but also embossed, using wide panels with contours. Another advantage of a plastic false ceiling is its price. Of course, this is not the cheapest type of ceiling, but, nevertheless, it will cost you much less than, for example, a stretch ceiling. In addition, the air gap that forms between the ceiling and the plastic creates good sound insulation.

Since PVC panels are surprisingly moisture resistant, it is logical to install them in the bathroom. When flooded, plastic panels are able to withstand the weight of water and not be afraid of the main enemy of moisture called mold. Especially if PVC panels are also installed on the walls and in the kitchen. For the same reason, such material is great for lining a home kitchen. Plastic panels in the kitchen are especially good, because such a ceiling is easy to clean with ordinary detergents, and, as you know, with the constant operation of the gas stove, all surfaces are polluted with soot.

The choice of plastic for mounting

First you need to calculate how much material you need. It's easy enough if you know the area of ​​the ceiling. If not, then it can be measured. A complex configuration room will need to be divided into parts - rectangular sections on the ceiling, then the results should be rounded up. If the room is rectangular, it will be easier to measure everything.

When buying, you just need to look at the packaging - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plastic panel must be indicated there. Also take into account the number of panels in the package, consider how many panels you need to cover the entire area and add a little (taking into account trimming and the like).

You can determine the type and color of plastic directly during the purchase. The design of the whole room depends on which panels you choose for mounting the plastic ceiling. White panels are the cheapest, while patterned and textured panels will cost more. All panels must be in the same color (color scheme) and the pattern, if any, must be accurate and correct. If a panel that catches your eye is lighter than the rest, or, on the contrary, very dark, it is best to change it to one that fits perfectly into the overall tone of all panels.

When you buy a material such as plastic, you need to be very careful and inspect each panel, because defective models are not desirable to use. When you bought plastic, when transporting it to the house, remember that it cannot be damaged, because then during installation it will not fulfill its function and will not create perfectly even joints.

Choice of materials and tools

So, first you should get acquainted with the most common profiles for attaching plastic panels:

1. The starting profile that is most frequently encountered. Such structures serve to close the ends of the panels and are attached to the ceiling around the perimeter of the entire room.
2. H-profile is also called connecting. Based on the name, it is used to increase the length of the panels.
3. F-profile is designed to close the ends of the plastic panels at the outer corners when moving to another plane. That is, one wall is sheathed with PVC panels, but the one around the corner is not.
4. The plastic ceiling plinth is essentially the same starting profile, but a little ennobled.
5. The outer and inner plastic corner are used to close the end panels at the inner and outer corners.
6. A universal plastic corner can be glued to any corners, but it does not look promising.

To determine the number of profiles, you need a pre-drawn scheme. Draw on paper a proportionally reduced ceiling. It should be borne in mind that the profiles should be 60 centimeters apart from each other. Thus, it will be easier to deal with the number of bars, the footage of the plinth and profile. You will also need to buy suspensions for the frame, lamps (if necessary) and fasteners.

Profiles are also required that are attached around the perimeter. The number of self-tapping screws for fastening panels and dowels, which are necessary for fixing the profiles, is calculated taking into account the number of required profiles, plus a margin. If desired, replace the profiles with wooden beams and use staples instead of self-tapping screws. So you can reduce the cost of the process and simplify the assembly of plastic panels.

To calculate the amount of ceiling plinth required, divide the ceiling perimeter by 3 (if the segment is 3 meters long). From the tools you will need: a ruler, a wallpaper knife, a tape measure, a building level, a hacksaw, drills, a stepladder. As well as a drill, puncher, dowels, self-tapping screws, paint cord, hangers and ceiling profiles. When all the tools are prepared and the materials are purchased, you can start installing the ceiling.

Preparatory work

Basically, preparatory work when installing a plastic ceiling with your own hands is not needed, but if you wish, you can sand it with medium grit sandpaper. Of course, if you are making such a ceiling in a room with increased humidity, for example, in a bathroom, it is better to treat the concrete floor with an antifungal compound.

The first step is to determine the level of the future ceiling (how many centimeters it will be lowered down). If you still decide to mount the lamps, do not forget to leave room for them. Basically, the fixtures have a depth of five to ten centimeters.

If you mount the fixtures yourself, pay attention to the resistance of the wire you buy, but without certain knowledge in this matter, it is better to turn to a professional. It is better to fix the wires above the plastic in advance and bring them to the switch. The wiring must be isolated and hidden behind the profiles. Next, we make markings on the wall around the perimeter.

Mounting the box on the ceiling

When determining the horizontal, it is important to remember that the slanting ceiling will be striking, so you need to measure everything more than once, first measuring the height of all corners and choosing the lowest one. Then you should retreat 5 centimeters to the floor and mark the horizontal, using the water level. In the corners and on the ledges, you should leave marks, as in the photo of plastic ceilings. Further, using a masking cord, beat off the lines that were previously determined.

On the marked strip, which shows how much lower the ceiling will be, you need to drill holes for the dowels. This should be done with a drill or puncher. Through the profile you need to make holes directly. Insert the dowels into these holes, and attach the ceiling profile to the wall. The usual length of such profiles is three meters, but they can also be connected to each other if you suddenly have a very large room by inserting one into one. At the same time, do not forget to fasten the profiles to each other with bugs.

Along the entire perimeter of the room, a profile should be attached to the wall, and on the ceiling - suspensions to which the ceiling profile will be attached. Hangers should be mounted along a straight line. The desired lines can be created using a masking cord, not forgetting the distance (about 60 centimeters from one another).

After that, you need to pull the thread-fishing line. This must be done as shown in the video about plastic ceilings, across the entire room, from wall to wall. Further, this thread should be attached to the dowels that already hold the profile. It is important to remember that if you pull the fishing line incorrectly or not tight enough, sagging cannot be avoided, but you need to get a perfectly even horizontal line.

At the level of the thread, the profile should be fixed. This requires an assistant who will hold the profile so that it is as close as possible to the thread, but does not touch it. Having attached the profile to the suspensions, you need to bend them. When the frame is built, you can proceed to the ceiling sheathing with plastic. The plastic itself is recommended to be fixed with self-tapping bugs, not forgetting the points of contact with the profile. It is better to seal even the smallest seams with silicone, and remove excess material with a spatula so that the ceiling looks neat.

plastic ceiling lining

When you start working directly with plastic, pay attention to the room. If it is slightly skewed and uneven around the perimeter, then the first strip of plastic must be cut off very carefully in order to properly hide this flaw. It is necessary that the following strips are attached to the profile perfectly, at a right angle.

It is important to know before making a plastic ceiling that the installation of panels can be carried out not only across the room. You can install the panels along and diagonally, and the colors can thus be easily combined if you want to get an original ceiling with an unusual pattern as a result. If you have chosen thin plastic, then it can be bent, trimming the corners, this will help create an unusual design. There is also a special corner plastic that hides the panel joints. With the help of plastic, you can also make a multi-level ceiling.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling starts from one wall. They need to be cut exactly along the length of the surface with a hacksaw, jigsaw or grinder. When cutting the first panel, it needs to be made a little shorter than the width of the room, by about 3-5 millimeters. Clean the edges with a sandpaper or abrasive mesh. Try not to wrinkle the panels. And most importantly - before installation, do not forget to remove the film from them!

It is necessary to work carefully, because this material is quite fragile. Plastic should be treated with care before plating. If you have already caused damage to the purchased plastic, you can try to hide them with silicone, preferably white. This option will not work if you opted for colored plastic, because silicone is white and transparent.

Fasten the first panel tightly with self-tapping screws on the profiles, fasten all subsequent panels to the rails of the mounting profiles according to the type of constructor. The most difficult stage of the whole procedure is the installation of the last panel. You need to cut along the length by a millimeter less than the distance from one wall to the starting profile at the opposite one. Insert the panel with one side as far as it will go into the profiles, directly into the corner.

The second end will hang freely, slide the panel out of the first corner and insert it. Between the penultimate and last panel you will have a small gap, but they need to be joined somehow. Sometimes you can do it on your own, but most of the time it doesn't work. Then you can use masking tape. Glue a couple of strips across the last panel and pull it up to the previous one.

To mount the luminaire, mark the location on the panel with a pencil. Then you need to cut a hole using a clerical knife. Insert a lamp into the hole and connect the wire to it. Wires need to be run under the ceiling. If you need to install several fixtures, it is recommended to connect them in parallel to each other.

At the end of the installation, the room will change a lot. But it will still need to be glued with a frieze around the perimeter. This is done in order to hide the plastic attachment points. And given the moisture resistance and practicality of such a ceiling, we can say that this is a fairly profitable choice for repairs in your home.

When the issue of repair budget is acute, you have to look for compromises. Most often, it is ceiling work that falls under the reduction of waste on materials and wages of workers. If you can't afford it, consider making the ceiling out of plastic.

Scheme 1 - Installation of a false ceiling. Scheme of work

Installing plastic on the ceiling: the benefits

Plastic is mainly chosen for finishing non-residential premises as a construction of a stylistically neutral ceiling surface.

In apartments and cottages, plastic is a favorite material for finishing ceilings in bathrooms, less often in kitchens.

The material is not afraid of moisture, and frequent changes in temperature, with the organization of good ventilation of the room does not grow moldy, does not take up much ceiling height. Plastic is easy to assemble and, if necessary, disassemble. Plus: there is the possibility of sectional replacement of a damaged ceiling covering , which undoubtedly reduces the cost of secondary repairs.

However, one of the main captivating advantages of plastic lining ceilings is cheapness.

Judge for yourself: a ceiling made of plastic panels costs an average of $3.5-5/m² (the price includes the purchase of materials and assembly of the ceiling), the cost per square meter of material starts from $1.7.

At the same time, the cost of a GKL sheet for finishing ceilings is $ 7.5-8.2 (approximately 3 m²), in order to install a plasterboard ceiling, you will have to pay another $ 4 / m², as well as additionally buy an adhesive mixture and a profile (when installing drywall sheets on frame), reinforcing mesh and putty for processing sheet joints. It turns out a solid difference: $ 3.5-5 / m² when finishing with plastic and almost $ 9 / m² when finishing with plasterboard on the frame.

Photo 1 - Installation of a ceiling plinth

Installation of a plastic ceiling

The ceiling of plastic panels, in fact, this mixture of slatted ceiling and plasterboard. From the last in the installation of plastic, a frame organization system is used, plus the finishing process is extremely similar to installing a rail.

Stages of installing plastic on the ceiling:

• installation of guide profiles;
• suspension installation;
• installation of a ceiling profile;
• installation of plastic panels;
• ceiling plinth installation.

Installation of guide profiles

1. Step back from the ceiling 7-10 cm and fix the guide profile around the perimeter.

IMPORTANT! A gap of up to 10 cm is needed in order to subsequently run electrical wires under the plastic ceiling and install recessed fixtures.

2. Use a laser level to make accurate measurements.

3. If you are installing a ceiling made of plastic lining in rooms where the walls are finished with ceramic tiles, the installation of the guide profile can be somewhat complicated: it is impossible to drill mounting holes in the tile directly through the guide rails - ceramics can be chipped. In this case, the tile is drilled with a special drill according to the marking, and only then the profile is fixed into the prepared holes.

4. If you doubt the reliability of fastening and that the guides will withstand the weight of the entire structure to be mounted, use dowel nails with a length of at least 60 mm.

5. The step of attaching the profile to the ceiling must be at least 50 cm.

IMPORTANT! When using a dowel of nails on a tile, they must not be hammered, but wrapped.

Photo 2 - Ceiling paneling on the frame

Installation of hangers and ceiling profile

The ceiling profile must be installed perpendicular to the location of the plastic lining panels.

1. The profile is cut to the desired length, inserted into the guide profile.

2. Carry out the marking of the future fastening of the suspensions.

IMPORTANT! Please note: the profile must not pass through the mounting points of recessed luminaires! Also, the guide and ceiling profiles should not be fastened with self-tapping screws, because. with such fastening, the plinth for the ceiling will not become even.

3. Hangers can also be mounted using dowel nails.

IMPORTANT! If the dowel of the nail gets into the cavity of the ceiling, the fasteners may not hold well. You can solve this problem by using special anchors for a false ceiling (or do with a dowel and a self-tapping screw if the anchor was not at hand).

4. The components of the ceiling profile should be located at a distance of no more than 30-40 cm from each other. Even without installing transverse rails, you can assemble such a frame with your own hands rigid and durable.

Photo 3 - Plastic ceiling in a country house

Hemming of plastic panels and installation of a ceiling plinth

Before installing plastic rails or panels, it is necessary to carry out all the necessary communications along the frame of the mounted flow. After installing the plastic, you can also make wiring or install a lamp. The panel plastic ceiling is not a seamless fabric, by dismantling part of the panels you will have the opportunity to correct the shortcomings. However, this is redundant work.

1. A ceiling plinth is installed on three of the four walls: on one of the walls, the plinth is placed parallel to the panels, on the other two - perpendicularly.

2. The plastic panels of the first row are sawn to the desired size and inserted into the baseboard. The opposite side of this panel must be fixed with self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile.

3. The next panel after the first is mounted in an open groove, also fixing the opposite edge with self-tapping screws to the profile.

4. The work is completed by fixing the ceiling plinth to the fourth wall.

So you can mount not only a simple ceiling, but also a two-level one. The difference in work will be only in the complexity of the construction of the frame.

1. Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is best done by two people. Another pair of hands in this case will never be superfluous.

2. The plinth for fixing plastic panels should be special - mounting, and not decorative. In such a plinth, there must be grooves for installing panels.

3. The plinth is fixed to the guides along the perimeter with self-tapping screws. However, at the end of the installation, it is attached to the last wall with liquid nails.

Photo 4 - Plastic rack ceiling in the bathroom

The solution is not only for renovation in the toilet/balcony, but also in the bedroom. True, these ceilings should look different: in the first case, plastic slats will be appropriate, and in the second, plastic plates. The photo below shows examples of how plastic suspended ceilings can be used in different rooms of the apartment.

If you are going to sheathe the ceiling surface with plastic, remember: the main thing for the ceilings of living rooms is not to shrink with the width of the panels.

So that the room does not look cheap, it is better to choose panels made of plastic with a width of 40-60 cm. Most people associate white plastic with the decoration of sanitary facilities. On the other hand, embossed panels, painted to match, say, different types of wood, can hide the budgetary cost of ceiling repairs. These look no worse than painting or pasting the ceiling with wallpaper.

Do-it-yourself plastic ceiling: VIDEO

Plastic ceiling panels: prices

How much this or that type of plastic panels costs depends on the technical parameters of the panel: the size and thickness of the section.

A standard lining (rail) is about 10 cm wide and 9 mm thick. The cost of this is $ 2.1 / m².

Panels that imitate natural materials or painted in a certain color are more expensive: for example, the “Lux” panel in “chocolate” color with parameters 0.1 m / 6 m / 8 mm costs about $ 4 / m², the “Ash” panel with parameters 0, 25 m / 6 m / 8 mm costs $ 4.5 / m².

On sale there are also better-looking plastic for the ceiling. The price for this one starts from 5-5.5 $ / m². We are talking about plastic lacquered oak lining (0.25 m / 6 m / 9 mm) and mirror plastic panels (0.25 m / 6 m / 4 mm).

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

Ceiling repair is a fascinating and time-consuming process, but sometimes it takes a lot of time and effort. It is always a shame when a plastered ceiling begins to crumble and crack over time. This type of finish is being replaced by polymeric surfaces. Plastic panels are very popular today among both experienced builders and beginners.

The modern market is full of various types of finishing materials. Among buyers, the simplicity and efficiency of installation, as well as quality and reliability, are especially appreciated. All these requirements are met by finishing the ceiling with PVC panels, with which you can easily sheathe the ceiling surface in any room. With them, you can forget about the thorough preparation of the base and alignment. Consider in this article how to make plastic panels on your own, without having much experience in repair work.

Material Features

Today, building stores offer a huge selection of PVC panel models, they may differ in size, shape, manufacturing technique (matte, glossy, varnished) and decor (wood, stone). However, it is very important not to confuse them with wall ones. Ceiling panels are lighter and softer than wall panels, weigh less and are more fragile. They are easy to install, but require careful handling, so a dent can be put by hand.

Plastic panels have a number of advantages:

What are PVC panels

Plastic sheets are lightweight, porous PVC products. They are smooth and flat, on the cut of the long end, internal locks are visible for fixing during assembly, like in a laminate. The panels consist of two sheets interconnected by plastic ribs.
How to lay out the ceiling of plastic panels is shown in the video below.

Installation of PVC sheets is possible on a frame made of wood or metal, and for sheathing it is necessary to use several types of profiles.

Profile types:

1. Starting. They are used most often, close the ends of the sheets along the perimeter of the ceiling.
2. F-profiles. Also hide the outer ends of the panels.
3. H-profiles. This is a connecting type of profiles to increase the length.
4. Corners made of plastic (external and internal). Hide the outer and inner ends.
5. Plastic plinth for the ceiling.
6. Universal plastic corner. Suitable for all angles.

The downside of a PVC suspended ceiling is the limited choice of shapes and the impossibility of assembling a multi-level structure. And also the presence of joints between plastic sheets is always noticeable. It is better not to buy cheap panels, as this will spoil the overall appearance of the ceiling, because lighting fixtures can be seen through low-quality sheets.

It is important to note that there are two technologies for mounting plastic ceiling panels:

1. For glue.
2. On the profile crate.

Choosing the Right

What are the criteria for choosing PVC sheets:

Of the tools we need:

1. Drill (low speed) or hammer drill.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Roulette.
4. Sharp knife and scissors for metal.
5. Hacksaw.
6. Miter box for cutting.
7. A hammer.
8. Water and bubble level.
9. Steel plumb lines (for a frame made of plastic or metal).

Varieties of PVC sheets:

• Suture. The joints on such panels are immediately evident.
• Seamless. The junctions of the strips on the ceiling are practically invisible.
• Glossy. They reflect light well, they are able to visually enlarge and expand the space.
• Matte texture. A more budget option, it can imitate white paint finishes.
• Monophonic.
• With drawings and other decor.

Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is shown in stages in this video.

Let's start installation

All work on the installation of a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels can be divided into several stages:

1. Preparatory stage.
2. Installation of the frame (made of metal, plastic or wood).
3. Installation of the panels themselves.
4. Ceiling finish.

Preparation stage

The surface of the ceiling must be prepared for repair work. Although it will not be visible, the ceiling must be cleaned of dust, dirt, traces of old paint, plaster, whitewash or putty. Then we prime the surface and wait for it to dry completely.

Now let's start marking for the future frame: we apply a line on all the walls in the room using a laser and water level, which determines the level of our future suspended ceiling. In this case, you can use twine, previously painted with bright chalk. We press the string a little against the wall so that the chalk remains on it. For wiring from lamps or fixtures, we leave gaps from the frame to the ceiling up to 2 centimeters in size.

After we have finished delineating the perimeter, we proceed to mark the frame. The frame profiles should be located strictly perpendicular to the PVC sheets at a distance of 40-60 centimeters. How to make a ceiling of plastic panels, shown in this video.

Frame installation

Wood

Using dowels, we mount wooden slats in the ceiling, screwing screws every 60 centimeters. Between the beams and the ceiling, you can place wooden linings for leveling. The disadvantage of a frame made of this material is the possibility of deformation when the wood gets wet and dry during operation.

Plastic

We make this frame from U-shaped plastic guides. We mount suspensions in the ceiling in increments of up to 60 centimeters, and profile guides in increments of 50 centimeters. We attach the starting profile to the guides using self-tapping screws at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.
The bottom border of the frame should follow the line drawn in the layout step. To join the profile in the corners, we use a miter box or carefully cut with a hacksaw. The disadvantage of this type of frame is the inability to withstand heavy loads.

Metal

Such a frame is considered the most reliable, since it is not deformable and serves as the basis for a perfectly flat plane. The galvanized metal frame has the most complex installation technology, however, the same U-shaped profiles are used (every 60-80 centimeters). After lines are drawn on the surface to determine the level of the future ceiling, we make marks for installing plumb lines. How to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels with a metal frame is shown in the video below.

Using a perforator on the walls and ceiling, we make holes for the location of plastic dowels. We mount the guides of the supporting profile to the wall, and the suspensions to the ceiling. We mount transverse profiles in load-bearing installations, and then align their horizontal position using the building level.

When the frame is installed, do not forget about the wiring to ensure the operation of lighting equipment in the future.

PVC panel cladding

We mount plastic sheets across the installed profiles. The first sheet must be cut so that it is 5 mm shorter than the width of the room. We cut off excess material with a jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw. The edges are processed with sandpaper.

We slide the finished first sheet into the starting U-shaped profile, make sure that the panel falls into place. Now we fix it with clips, self-tapping screws or screws to all the support profiles on the frame.

The second and subsequent sheets are mounted in the same way, except for the last one. We cut the finishing panel along the length by 1 mm less than the distance from the wall to the starting guide profile of the opposite wall. We push the strip all the way in the very corner of the ceiling to the profile. We extend the other end a little from the first corner and also insert it all the way.

A small gap may form between the last two sheets, which is easy to eliminate with masking tape. We apply adhesive tape across the finish panel and move it in the direction of the penultimate one.
Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels is ready. Now you can start finishing the surface. Holes for fixtures can be cut at any stage, as shown in the video.

Assembling a suspended ceiling from PVC sheets with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing is to take into account the features of the material and strictly follow the instructions.

From time to time it becomes necessary to repair the ceilings in the apartment. An inexpensive and practical option is PVC ceiling panels. A design of this type is ideal for rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, hallway). Installation is quite simple and it is easy to carry out even for a person far from construction, with a certain tool.

The cost of installing a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels with your own hands, compared to other types of ceiling surface finishes, is significantly lower. The process of finishing the ceiling with PVC panels includes several stages, some of which can be divided into several more points. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Preparatory stage

It can be roughly divided into three points:

Purchase of necessary materials

The choice of panels is a rather serious process, since there are many types of these products and they all differ in size, patterns, and texture. When choosing, pay special attention to the width of the product. For rooms with a small area, panels with a width of no more than 250 mm are suitable; for large rooms, it is advisable to choose options with a width of more than 250 mm.

For advice, it is better to contact the sellers of a specialized store, as a rule, they are well prepared and can provide high-quality advice on the choice of materials for mounting a PVC panel ceiling.

Bars must have a cross section of at least 30 * 30 mm.

As a ceiling plinth in the construction of a PVC ceiling, you can use plastic specially made for this purpose, which has a groove for installing panels into it. The plinth should be taken with a small margin of about 1 m more than the perimeter of the ceiling, because during the installation process it will have to be cut at an angle and you can make a mistake.

If you plan to make a metal frame, you will need to purchase:

Tool

When working with PVC ceilings, you will need:

• Roulette
• Pencil or fine marker
• Construction level
• Construction corner
• Lace
• Metal shears
• miter box
• Electric jigsaw or wood saw
• Bulgarian with a disk no more than 2 mm.
• Impact drill or hammer drill with drilling function (for concrete ceiling)
• screwdriver
• Extension

Tip: For convenience, the extension cord must have several outlets, this will allow you not to switch the power tool during operation.

Surface preparation for installation

For installation, it is necessary to free the ceiling from everything that may interfere with its implementation. Remove old lamps, chandelier. It is worthwhile to determine in advance where the electrical wires pass and mark these places with a marker or pencil. Clean the surface from dirt and dust.

Frame manufacturing

The frame can be made of wooden bars or metal profiles 60 * 27 mm. For wet rooms, it is advisable to use a metal structure, since it is less susceptible to corrosion under the influence of moisture. Also, the metal frame installation system is ideal for leveling the ceiling, because it uses suspensions that allow the frame to be lowered by 3 - 4 cm.

It is advisable to use wooden bars in a dry room and with a fairly even draft ceiling. A combination of these two methods is also possible; for this, fastening with metal suspensions is used in a system of wooden bars. The method is impractical, because you have to use bars with a cross section of at least 5 * 5 cm and perfectly even.

Metal carcass

The metal profile frame must be installed at a distance of no more than 4 cm from the draft ceiling.

In the resulting gap, it is convenient to hide the wiring.

First, a starting profile 27 * 28 is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the entire ceiling, at a distance of 3 - 4 cm, so that later the main profile 60 * 27 can be inserted into it. Depending on the material of the walls, fastening is made on self-tapping screws or on dowels - nails. When mounting on a dowel - nails, you will need to drill a hole in the profile and in the wall and, pressing firmly, hammer the dowel with a nail.

Important: Dowel - nails used for mounting the starting profile must have a cylindrical skirt. Only in this case is it possible to use through-hole technology.

The starting profile is mounted strictly according to the level, starting from any corner of the room and moving around the entire perimeter. If the profile is set exactly, the start and end points must converge and thus close the perimeter.

The next stage is the placement of metal suspensions. To do this, it is necessary to mark the places where the main profiles will pass. It is convenient to use a lace for marking. The main profile is fixed at a distance of 40 - 60 cm from each other strictly parallel. Suspensions must be installed at a distance of 80 cm from each other. Suspensions are mounted using self-tapping screws or dowels - nails, in the holes provided for this, and immediately bent to facilitate the installation of the main profile in them.

The last step is to install the main profile. To do this, the profile is cut to the required length with a gap of 5 mm on each side, inserted into the starting profile and fastened with self-tapping screws with a press washer to the hangers. The level controls its horizontal location, as well as a strictly rectilinear location.

Tip: In the process of fixing the starting profile, do not neglect its horizontal position, because in the future this will lead to an incorrect location of the main profile and, as a result, you will have to start installation again from the very beginning.

Frame made of wooden beams

It is installed by analogy with metal, with the difference that the fastening of the bars is carried out by the through-mounting method without the use of suspensions. To level the plane, it is permissible to place wood chips under the bars. First of all, the extreme bars are installed, then they fill the middle at a distance of 40 - 60 cm from each other.

Panel mounting

First of all, ceiling plinths are measured and washed down at an angle of 45 degrees. Their fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws ПШ 13 mm or using liquid nails. Skirting boards are installed around the entire perimeter so that the panels mounted later fall exactly into their groove.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling begins with determining the length of the workpiece. To do this, measure the distance from one wall to another, then subtract 2 cm from this distance and draw a strictly perpendicular line on the panel with a pencil and a building corner.

Then, with the help of a grinder, they cut it off. Next, install the first panel in the grooves of the ceiling plinth and move it all the way to the wall. As a result, it should turn out that the first panel on three sides went into the grooves of the ceiling plinth. Only after that, it is possible to fasten the panel to the bars or profile.

Tip: There are two ways to attach PVC panels to the ceiling when making a wood frame. The first - on self-tapping screws with a press washer, the second - with a stapler, on staples. Both methods are equally effective, but fastening with a stapler is more convenient and faster.

Subsequent panels are cut to size and installed so that the ends are in the grooves of the plinths and each next panel is included in the lock of the previous one. The last panel must be cut to length and then, having measured the desired distance, cut to width and then installed.

You can learn more about the installation process by watching the video description of the process.