Siding is a popular material for facade cladding. A practical homeowner chooses this particular type of decoration for the exterior walls of the house. Siding has a lot of undeniable advantages. Among them, the presentable appearance of the panels and the ease of their installation.
The market offers two types of siding: vinyl and metal. There are no fundamental differences in the installation of these materials. But there is a significant difference in characteristics.
Vinyl significantly more affected by ambient temperature. When heated, it expands; when cooled, it contracts. This feature is taken into account in the panel production technology: they are designed in such a way that during installation, the damping gap necessary to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the lamellas remains.
Vinyl siding has a significantly lower frost resistance than metal siding. Therefore, with prolonged exposure to low temperatures, it becomes brittle. This feature of vinyl must be considered by those homeowners who live in regions with a harsh climate. When hitting a fragile frozen vinyl lamella, cracks will certainly appear on it.
Unlike metal, plastic panels are not fire resistant. But they can be used as additional insulation of the facade.
In recent years, a modernized version of vinyl siding has appeared that is more resistant to UV (does not lose its color from sunlight) and has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion. It is a siding "under the rounded log". It looks more attractive than the flat panels that are sheathed in kiosks and industrial buildings. Therefore, it is able to make the facade of a residential building cozy and spectacular.
It has a wide range of colors, but is much less often used for cladding private houses.
There are several reasons for this:
- it has the property of heating up in the cold, thereby reducing the thermal protection of the walls;
- during rain, quite loud sounds characteristic of metal appear.
In order for the cladding of a wooden house with vinyl or metal siding to be of the highest quality, along with the panels, additional elements are purchased that are required for finishing window and door openings, gables, slopes. These are elements such as:
- start and finish line;
- spotlights;
- J and H profile;
- external and internal corners.
For sheathing a wooden house with siding, it makes no sense to purchase a complete set of additional elements. In choosing their type and quantity, they are guided by the architectural and design features of the building. But start and finish bars are always required, no matter what. A set of panels begins with the installation of the starting bar and is completed with the installation of the finishing one.
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The appearance of the cladding of the house depends on how well the crate is built. A frame assembled in accordance with all the rules is able to hide any flaws and irregularities in the walls and gables of the building. The crate is the base to which the canvases of the finishing material are attached.
When installing metal and vinyl lamellas, two types of frames are used:
- from wooden bars;
- from a metal profile.
Any of them is suitable for mounting facing material on wooden walls. A properly installed frame allows you to lay any of the modern heat insulators on the walls. The crate also provides the ventilation gap required to eliminate excess moisture.
Installation of the frame is not needed if the walls of the wooden house are perfectly even. On such a surface, you can safely mount siding without using the structure of additional supports.
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Rules for mounting a metal frame
For the device of this type of crate, a metal profile is required, which is used for the installation of plasterboard walls, ceilings and partitions. These are PN 28x27 and PP 60x27. These planks will be attached to the wall of the house with the help of special suspensions, which the craftsmen call "pawns".
If it is necessary to mount a two-tier metal frame, assuming a protrusion under the roof or in the upper part of the wall, special “crab” fasteners are used to connect the metal strips. They are designed for strong docking between vertical and horizontal strips. As fasteners, self-tapping screws SMM 3.5x51 are used, which experts call "seeds".
Stages of installation of a metal crate
Step 1: drawing up a scheme of the crate
At this stage of work, it is necessary to decide which step between the racks of the crate will be optimal. This distance depends on what material is chosen for wall insulation. If it is mineral wool in rolls, then the step between the racks of the frame should be 3-4 cm less than the width of the canvas. This will allow you to lay the insulation in the openings between the racks of the crate so that there are no gaps between its canvases.
Step 2: Markup
Markings corresponding to the scheme are applied to the wall. Use a marker.
Step 3: Hanger Mounting
Using wood screws and a screwdriver, hangers are attached to the wooden wall of the house. These metal strips are placed horizontally, aligning the marking point with the center of the wide slot in the middle of the suspension. At the initial stage of siding installation, the perforated "legs" are not bent, but left pressed against the wall.
Step 4: installing the corner posts of the batten
Corner posts consist of two planks of profile PP 60/27 connected at a right angle. They will serve as the basis for installing the external and internal corners of the siding. When installing the corner posts, it is important not to make a mistake, and set the corner exactly as needed: for external corners, the protrusion is outward, for the internal corners, the protrusion is inward.
Step 5: installation of intermediate vertical racks of the crate
It is important that all vertical supports of the frame are located in the same plane. If a thread is pulled between the corner posts, the installation of the intermediate posts will be easier and faster. The lower and upper ends of the profile PP 60/27 are inserted into the guides PN 28/27 and fixed with self-tapping screws. Thus, the frame acquires the required rigidity.
Step 7: Mounting the frame for windows and doors
The metal frame around the window and door openings should be a solid frame of the correct geometric shape, exactly following the contours of the opening. It should be noted that slopes and low tide should have a slight slope from the window installed in the house. Therefore, the frame is mounted in such a way that its vertical and horizontal strips are indented 1-2 cm from the window lines. The same requirements are set for doorways.
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Screwdrivers
Rules for mounting a wooden frame
Having figured out how to make a metal frame for siding, it is easy to mount a wooden crate. It is set according to the same rules. But other materials and tools will be required:
- wood screws;
- hacksaw;
- bars with a section of 3x4, 4x4 or 4x5 cm.
Lumber is necessarily treated with an antiseptic solution that prevents premature destruction of wood. It is recommended to apply a double or triple layer of this composition. The bars should be well dried and even. A planer is used to eliminate flaws.
The device of a wooden crate for siding does not provide for the installation of guides. The ends of the vertical racks are interconnected by similar wooden bars.
Features of mounting the frame for sheathing the plinth with siding
Siding is suitable not only for facing walls and gables. It is also suitable for covering the foundation. Since the plinth is more often exposed to mechanical stress than walls and gables, it is recommended to mount a metal crate. It should be noted that each basement siding panel must be installed on 4 vertical posts. The distance between them must be the same.
Installation of siding on the crate
During the installation of the panels, their trimming will inevitably be required. Sawing is performed using a grinder and a circle for metal with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. It is suitable for both metal and vinyl siding. For cutting panels and additional elements, you can use scissors for metal.
Step 1: Installing the Starter Bar
The quality of all further work will depend on how correctly the starting bar is set. Therefore, this process must be taken with all responsibility. The starting profile must be installed strictly horizontally along the entire length of the wall. In order to fulfill this condition, self-tapping screws are screwed in at the bottom of the corner posts of the crate so that the thread stretched between them is located strictly horizontally. It will serve as a guide when installing the starting profile.
It is important that when building up between the strips, there is a gap of 0.8-10 mm wide.
Video - Installing the starting bar
Video - How to insert siding into the homepage, installation using the example of Docke siding (Docke)
Step 2: installing the corner profile
The lower border of the profile should be 0.5-1 cm below the starting bar. When building up the corner profile, the side perforation is trimmed. The optimal overlap of the lower part on the upper one is 2.5 cm. There should be a gap of 8-9 mm between the perforations of the upper and lower corner profile.
If during work it turned out that the length of the corner profile is not enough to sheathe the corner, you should not rush to the store. You can use existing starter strips. They need to be connected to each other so that the desired angle is obtained: internal or external.
Step 3: decorating window openings
If the opening is in the same plane with the facade, two vertical and two horizontal near-window profiles are installed.
If window openings are recessed into the facade, installation of slopes and low tide will be required. It is important to correctly connect the near-window strips to each other so that water does not get inside the facing layer.
Step 4: Mounting the first panel
Siding panels are simply inserted into the H-profile with a gap of 5-6 mm
When fastening the siding and any of the additional elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm, without screwing the self-tapping screw tightly into the frame. Otherwise, the skin will be deformed under the influence of compression-expansion forces.
The end face of the first panel is brought into the corner profile and the locking connection of the starting bar. After that, proceed to attach the siding to the crate. When building up the panel, cut off 4-5 cm of perforation.
Step 5: Panel Set
During the installation of the panels, the correct position of the panels must be regularly checked using a bubble level at least 80 cm long.
Step 6: Mounting the Finishing Plank
When you reach the top of the wall, you will find that there is not enough space to mount the entire panel. In this case, measure the distance from the locking of the last installed panel to the top of the wall. Then they take a new panel, apply the appropriate markings on it with a pencil and cut off the excess. Fasten the siding to the crate and install a finishing bar on top of it.
Under the window, everything is about the same - the topmost bar is cut to size and simply snaps onto the bottom lock of the siding
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How to properly and economically install window adjoining
To form slopes, a plastic or metal L-shaped bar (L-profile) is used. Measure the length and width of the window block and cut the strips for the top, bottom and sides of the window.
In order to compensate for the difference between the thickness of the manufacturer's window strip and the width of the L-profile, two strips of the same length will be required for each side of the window. One will be inserted into the other, which will simultaneously strengthen the profile.
Take one bar and attach it to the top of the installed window unit. Use self-tapping screws SMM 3.5 / 51. Similarly, the L-profile is fixed around the entire perimeter of the window.
In order to form the protrusion necessary for installing the near-window strip, the same, similar length is inserted into the profile fixed on the window. But first apply super glue on it. It is important not to forget that the glued profile must be dry and clean. The L-profile is inserted towards the one fixed on the window so that the short shelf is connected to the long one.
At the lower corner points of the window towards the crate, it is necessary to strengthen similar double strips of such a length that it corresponds to the width of the slope required in this case. These double short slats must be on the previously installed metal trough.
Measure the desired length of the near-window strip and cut it with scissors for metal. On each side of the plank, you need to make a saw cut at an angle of 45 °, which will allow you to form a beautiful slope. Before attaching the strip, cut off the excess perforated abutment.
The near-window plank is inserted into the L-profile so that its rectangular perforated protrusion closely adjoins the adjacent rack of the crate. Perform fastening.
Self-tapping screws, with which the siding is attached, must be screwed strictly into the center of the factory holes. But the last top skin panel can be fastened directly through vinyl or metal.
The finished result - the pediment is sheathed, spotlights are installed
Video - Step-by-step installation of factory window connections
Video - How to cut a near-window profile
Video - Installation of overlapping siding on a wooden frame
Video - How the siding ends at the top
Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation is a budgetary way to protect a residential or industrial building from the effects of external conditions. It is possible to carry it out independently by a person who has minimal skills in construction. The main thing at the same time: to adhere to the technology of work.
The frame on which the siding panels will be installed can be made of a metal profile or a wooden beam.
Metal crate
The finished structure will be more durable, stable and reliable. Metal rails are easier to fix on uneven surfaces.
The profile is fixed at a distance of 50 cm from each other; suspensions are used to connect it to the wall of the building. This technique helps to smooth out wall deviations, allowing you to assemble an even frame.
Wooden frame
This method is more affordable, but you will need to carefully study the material before buying. Usually bars with a section of 50 * 50 mm are used.
For the crate, you can not purchase wood that exfoliates or has traces of rot, deformation. Any damage will significantly reduce the life of the entire structure.
The installed frame must be carefully treated with protective impregnations to increase its resistance to decay, repel insects and reduce flammability.
Tools for the job
For self-assembly you will need:
- sharp knife or jigsaw for cutting vinyl parts;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- nails;
- roulette;
- hammer.
Calculation of the amount of materials
Calculating the amount of vinyl sidingTo find out the exact amount of materials that will be needed for work, you should measure the sheathed building.
The external surfaces of any structure can be divided into geometric shapes: squares, rectangles, triangles. To facilitate the process, you can use this technique by first measuring the individual elements of the walls, and then adding the resulting values.
When calculating, it is important to remember that vinyl, like any PVC material, tends to change in size with an increase or decrease in ambient temperature. The degree of deviation can be almost 10 cm.
Therefore, it is important to take into account this property of the facing material when drawing up a plan for sheathing. If this point is ignored, the finished structure will very soon lose its original appearance - the panels will warp or, on the contrary, gaps will form between the individual elements.
To prevent this from happening, before attaching vinyl siding, it is worth studying the installation recommendations.
Rules for installing vinyl siding
In order for the finished structure to be durable and not lose strength over time, you should:
- During installation, fix the panels so that they can move freely.
- Drive a nail exclusively into the center of the hole intended for it. It is impossible to fix the panel with a nail located at one of the ends of the hole - this can ruin the product. If it is necessary to drive it into the end (for example, if only in this area it can be connected to the lath of the crate), the hole must first be expanded using a puncher.
- It is impossible to drive a nail to the end - there should be a distance of 1 mm between the panel and the cap.
- The fasteners must be hammered in at a right angle, otherwise the lining elements may be bent.
Surface preparation
Any hanging elements - drains, platbands, lamps, doorbells, mailboxes and more - are removed from the walls.
After that, they carefully inspect their home: if there are traces of mold, large cracks and other defects on the walls, they are eliminated. The old wall cladding (plaster, tiles, boards) is completely removed.
Lathing installation
Do-it-yourself installation of battens is carried out, taking into account the method of fastening the siding: a vertical frame is needed for horizontal fastening, and vice versa.
If at the same time as the cladding they plan to insulate the building, the crate is made double. In this case, the first frame should be perpendicular to the second, on which the siding will be installed. For example, if the sheathing will be fastened in a horizontal way, then the frame under it - the second one - should be vertical, and the first one, installed on the wall, should be horizontally directed.
The step of the crate is determined based on the width of the insulation of the plates.
Lathing installation Siding installation
If there is no experience in carrying out such work, a video instruction will help: after viewing it, it is easier to understand all the nuances of the process.
Finding the starting point
The final result will depend on the evenness of the position of the initial bar; close attention should be paid to this point.
Along the entire perimeter of the building, it is required to designate the installation line. Using the building level, find the lowest point on the crate, screw a self-tapping screw in this place.
Do the same around the perimeter of the house. A thread is fixed on the first self-tapping screw, stretched along the perimeter, returning to the starting mark.
Using the cord as a reference line, fix the J-profile. At the same time, an indent of 6 mm is left at the corners. The profiles themselves are fixed at a distance of 10 mm from each other so that they do not warp when the temperature changes.
Installation of corner external and internal profiles
Before installing these elements, soffits are first installed or their locations are marked.
The corner profile is applied to the corner of the crate with the expectation that between its end and the soffit there is a free space of 3 mm. The bottom edge should protrude 6 mm below the starting bar. Fix the part using self-tapping screws.
Using the level, make sure that the profile is in a strictly vertical position. The rest are fixed in the same way.
The process of installing internal profiles is no different from installing external ones.
Framing door and window openings
If the openings are located in the same plane with the wall of the building, a j-profile is installed along their perimeter.
Profile connection order:
- Bridge cuts are made on the upper profile at each end.
- Bend them down. The resulting hole is designed to drain precipitation from the top part to the bottom.
- Cuts are made on the side profiles so that the part can be tightly fitted to the upper profile.
- Assemble the structure.
By the same principle, make the lower part of the frame.
Installation of the first row and extension of panels
Step by step instructions for installing vinyl siding:
- Work begins from the rear of the house - here the possible mistakes of a beginner will not be so noticeable.
- The panel is inserted into the lock of the initial bar, at the same time leading its end into the corner profile. At the same time, it is important to maintain a distance of 6 mm (summer) or 9 mm (winter) from the bottom of the corner profile lock.
- Building panels is carried out by overlapping or using the H-profile. In the first case, the locks and mounting frames are cut so that when the parts are installed, an overlap of 2.5 cm is formed. The H-profile is installed in the same way as the corner profiles - departing from the spotlights by 3 mm and going beyond the level of the initial bar by 6 mm.
The remaining panels are mounted either around the perimeter, or separately sheathed for each wall. This does not affect the final result.
At this stage, the evenness of the work is checked every 3 rows. To install a row interrupted by an opening, the panel adjacent to it is cut to the desired size. Another finishing profile is installed in the lower part of the frame of the window opening - so the siding will be aligned in the plane.
Roof siding installation
Almost completed siding in the area adjacent to the roof is fastened with a J- or finishing profile.
First, a profile is fixed along the perimeter of the house under the roof. After that, the distance remaining between the bottom of the J-profile lock and the lock of the penultimate row of panels is measured. 2 mm is subtracted from the obtained value (the norm of the technological indent).
Points are marked on the vinyl panel (so that the lock is also removed during the cut), draw a line, cut off the excess. Make hooks, bend them to the outside of the element. If this moment causes difficulties, and it is difficult to repeat it with your own hands, the video will help you figure it out.
Insert the prepared panel, fix it in the J-profile lock, slightly pushing it up.
This guide will help you install vinyl siding yourself.
Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some nuances. If you decide to choose vinyl siding as a facing material, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.
Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.
For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by a photo, and at the end of the video.
Please note that these instructions are for installing vinyl siding, which is different from metal siding.
- knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut;
- electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.
- drill or hammer drill. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones;
- screwdriver For twisting hardware;
- building level. Laser is very convenient to use;
- roulette.
Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.
- When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at a temperature above -10 ° C (which is generally unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.
- There must also be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.
- Vinyl siding should rest at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperature before installation begins.
- Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.
Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.
Installation of vinyl siding - instructions
In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:
- fixing the starting bar;
- installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
- installation of siding panels;
- framing window and door openings with siding;
- installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
- arrangement of protruding elements;
- fastening of finishing strips;
- soffit installation;
- pediment lining.
Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, additional protection of the surface or insulation from moisture is achieved.
1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)
Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).
The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.
The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even the smallest slope during the installation work.
Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening. To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.
The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.
Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension using the building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will indicate the line of attachment of the starting strip. 
The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.
However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.
After that fix the bar.
How to attach vinyl siding to a wall
When installing vinyl elements, it is important to properly fasten. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions: 
- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.
- twist the hardware or hammer in the nail must be strictly perpendicular to the plane. 
- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The correct way is shown in the figure. 
- the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw. The desired gap is achieved in two ways.
First, you can attach a coin.
Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. 
There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood. The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material. 
Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner. 
Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.
Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately installing the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.
2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector
2.1 Fastening the planks
The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that ordinary panels are wound up. Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:
First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.
Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.
Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.
The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole. 
Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated. 
It will look as shown in the picture.
Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding
The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.
Mount the lower corner bar, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.
The overlap is 20-25 mm.
The figure shows how to lengthen the bar
Good to know:
- The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
- The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.
Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim blunt and sharp corners of a building.
For an obtuse angle, the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one, narrowed.
For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.
Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure. 
2.4. H-profile installation
This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.
- the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
- if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
- overlap profiles.
Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.
The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels. 3. Installation of ordinary siding panels
We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can finish one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter. 
Installation takes place in several steps:
3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the angled or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.
At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.
Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.
As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In the event that you use a budget mounting option, you can equip the inner panel in the ways shown in the figure. 
Don't forget to leave room for expansion.
3.2. siding panel you need to lower to the initial bar and snap. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture. 
Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.
3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.
3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.
If you need to connect the panels together, and you did not provide an H-profile or you do not like how it looks, you can do it as follows.
- First, remove the interlock from the panel.
- Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
- Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.
The photo shows what it looks like in practice. For your information:
- Some manufacturers produce panels without locking on the end of the siding sheet.
- Panels at the joints are not sealed.
- The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.
4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings
There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.
- in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.
- with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.
In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo. 
Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile. The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding. 
Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch. 5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch
If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.
Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed. 
Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made. Next, the profile is attached to the top of the window or door opening. A siding panel is inserted into it.
The process is clearly shown in the photo.
Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and fastening it with an overlap.
7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels
It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.
Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.
The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar. 
8. Installation of siding soffit
8.1. With wind bar
If the frontal board is small, it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.
Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar. 
In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.
In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.
In this case, the outer corner is attached to the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the desired size is cut out and wound up between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.
Similarly, the finishing on the second side.
It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.
9. Mounting the gable with siding
Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:
9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.
Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. It is not visible under the roofing material anyway.
This work is done as shown in the photo.
9.4. Attaching a J-profile to the top of the gable. To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap. 
9.5. Plank preparation. In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope. This can be done using a simple trick: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.
Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.
The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above. 
9.7. Preparing the last strip. Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile. 
9.8. Fastening the last strip. This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.
Conclusion
In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.
Video instruction, Installation of vinyl siding
You have decided to make the lining of your house, you have chosen siding panels as a finishing material, and now you are deciding for yourself the question of how to properly lay the siding. In this article you will find the answer to this question. In it, PVC siding or vinyl siding was chosen from several types of siding for consideration.
The fact is that at present it is this type that is chosen as a finishing material for facades in a little more than half of the cases of facade cladding with siding. And before you figure out how to properly install siding, let's decide why vinyl siding.
Why vinyl siding
- Beautiful, bright, attractive. After the facade of the house is finished with siding, the house looks very elegant and attracts the eye. Even those buildings that were built a long time ago will look like new.
- Numerous design solutions. Vinyl siding comes in a variety of colors and shades. The combination of different types of siding, the combination of different colors and additional elements, will allow you to finish the facade on the topics: “I have it, not like everyone else”, “better than my neighbor”, “I have long dreamed of this”.
- Durability. Many years will pass and the facade, finished with siding, will look as if the decoration was done recently. Specially added components are able to preserve the structure of the siding panels and protect them from fading. The warranty period for the best grades of siding is up to 50 years.
- Withstands all weather conditions. The temperature range at which it can be operated is from -50 to +50 degrees. He is not afraid of water, snow, hail, wind, rodents and insects. Siding panels do not rot, do not darken near the ground, do not become moldy.
- Able to hide construction errors. It happens that the wall material is not aesthetic, but in the event that the exterior siding is laid, this does not play any role. Under the siding sheathing, defects will not be visible.
- The technology of laying siding is very simple.. The most important thing is to follow the instructions for laying the siding. To fasten the panels together, they have special locks, so installation is simple and quick.
- Siding panels are very light weight. Therefore, additional strengthening of the walls and foundation is not required. And such work as DIY siding can be done by one person.
- Unpretentious in operation. If plastered walls or natural materials require special care, such as plastering, tinting, impregnation with antiseptic and fire-fighting solutions. That siding panels are easily and quickly washed with water from a hose, and it is enough to do this once or twice a year.
- Relatively low price. Given the durability of the facade of vinyl siding, compared with other finishing materials, we can say that the cost of such a finish is much lower.
Installation of vinyl siding
Surface preparation
In general, the installation of siding does not require thorough cleaning of the wall surfaces from the remnants of previous finishes, such as paint, plaster, etc. But before laying the siding, it is necessary to remove everything that can interfere.
These are climbing plants, tree branches, drainpipes, lanterns on the walls, etc. You should also remove additional elements in the form of shutters, wind boards, decorative trims around windows, doors, drainage and corner boards.
If the facade is old, then mold, rot and fungi can form on it. To get rid of these not very pleasant things, the walls should be treated with special antiseptics.
Using a level or plumb line, determine the quality of the verticality of the walls, as well as the verticality of the window and door frames. Existing distortions should be eliminated whenever possible. The verticality of the walls is checked in order to find out where to start installing the crate, or at least to determine the distance from the plane of the crate to the walls.
Lathing installation
Mounting the siding panels directly to the wall is not recommended, as there will be no ventilation between the wall and the siding and therefore mold and fungi may appear. And because of the possible curvature of the walls, you can forget about how to properly lay the siding and how beautiful it will look.
The crate is a special frame attached to the wall, and the siding is already mounted on this frame. According to the type of material, two types of crates can be distinguished.
- Wooden crate.
It is the easiest and any wood with a moisture content of at least 12% is suitable for such a crate.
Attention: Our main task is how to properly lay the siding, but if the wood is damp, then it can “lead” during the drying process, and then the plane of the crate will not be even. To correct this shortcoming, the facade will have to be disassembled.
It is better to do a wooden crate if the walls are wooden, made of logs or timber, it is easier to fasten the bars and it is easier to adjust the distance to the wall. Wooden bars must be treated with fire-bio protection to extend their service life.
The distance between the bars should be about 40 cm, if the winds are especially strong, then it is worth reducing the step and making it equal to 20 cm. Well, the thickness of the bars is determined by the presence or absence of insulation.
- Lathing from metal profiles
The material for the walls of your house can serve as a brick, foam block or just concrete. Or, as an option, a more rigid frame is required for the insulation, then it is possible to make a crate from special metal profiles with a galvanized surface.
To fix such a crate on the wall, the attachment points are marked, holes are drilled and special metal suspensions are attached to these holes with the help of dowel-nails. With the help of these hangers, you can easily adjust the distance from the plane of the crate to the wall.
The galvanized or anodized surface of the fasteners will avoid the appearance of unpleasant rusty streaks.
Do you want your home to look brand new without a big investment? Then an excellent and, most importantly, modern option is to finish the facade with siding. It is used for finishing a variety of buildings: the facade of a bathhouse, a garage, a house and others. It prevents the direct hit of the sun's rays on the walls, closes from rain, protects the house from temperature changes, and is also an excellent protection from the wind. Moreover, it is easy to operate. It is easy to tidy up by washing and wiping with a damp cloth. These are just some of the benefits of choosing wall siding. Now let's look at how to do the installation of siding with your own hands, find out what tool you need for this, and how to prepare for the work.
Tool and equipment
Before starting the preparatory work, you should make sure that all the tools are available. To install siding you will need:
- tin scissors,
- Bulgarian,
- sharp knife,
- perforator,
- punch,
- jigsaw,
- stapler,
- level,
- hammer,
- roulette,
- protective glasses.
In addition to the tool, you should purchase all building material in advance. In addition to the siding itself and its components, you need to stock up on nails, screws, staples, etc. Now that you have everything at hand, you can start preparatory work.
Preparatory work
It should be noted that siding cannot be installed by yourself. Therefore, take care of a reliable partner. Together, using a water level (or its laser variation), you can mark the facade. An exact mark is made on each corner of the building.
Note! It is extremely important that the last mark is the same as the first mark. If the marks do not match, then the measurements are inaccurate. Accordingly, the procedure must be repeated. If you ignore this, then you will end up with uneven walls.
After you need to find the highest mark, focusing on the base. Further, a mark is placed on each corner from the base, which will show the level of the first strip.
We make a crate for siding
One of the important stages of work is the manufacture of crates. To do this, you can use wooden blocks.
Note! If the siding will be laid horizontally, then the crate should only be installed vertically, and vice versa.
For the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to prepare enough bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm and 25 × 80 mm. When buying, make sure that they are perfectly even, otherwise, after installing the siding, the wall will repeat the shape of the "sea wave". When installing the crate, it is necessary to follow the distance between the bars, which should be 30-40 cm. If you want to pre-insulate the facade, then the crate is first made along the width of the insulation. The frame for the insulation will be made perpendicular to the crate for the siding. It is also necessary to upholster the windows with wooden bars. After laying the insulation, the surface must be covered with a waterproofing film using a stapler. This film must be laid with an overlap of ten centimeters wide.
When everything is ready, you can start making the frame directly for the siding. For this, you can use a metal profile. This has its advantages. For example, wooden blocks need to be treated with an antiseptic against corrosion. Moreover, under the influence of weather conditions, the bars can be deformed or dry out. Because of this, the siding may not hold up well. As for the metal profile, it does not threaten him.
Siding installation. Technology
When installing siding, one obligatory condition must be observed. It consists in ensuring that the siding moves under the influence of a temperature difference. To this end, nails should be driven into the holes provided in the center. It is also important to drive nails carefully. Do not use excessive force to drive them in.
Note! Do not nail the head of the nail close to the batten panel. It is recommended to leave a gap of 1.5 mm. This also applies to self-tapping screws, if you will fasten the siding with them.
Under no circumstances should the panel be stretched. Otherwise, the subsequent panel may become uneven, and this will lead to curvature. There can be a distance of up to 400 mm between nails.
The sequence of installation work
Window trim
The first step is the facing of the window opening. To this end, you should take the window strip and cut it to the desired size.
The strip, which is mounted on the inner perimeter of the slope, is installed to the final strip. To begin with, the bar is installed on the lower slope, then on the side, and only lastly on the upper slope.
Basement siding installation
Before starting the installation of siding on the facade, first decide whether it will be installed on the plinth. If yes, then this work needs to be done first. To do this, set the starting bar. It is extremely important to install it exactly horizontally. To accurately join the first panel with the corner, its edge is trimmed. Next, the next panel is installed. When it comes to the last panel, it must be cut so that there is a small gap between the panel and the corner.
Wall siding installation
First of all, the basement ebb line is beaten off with the help of a level. It is on top of it that the starting bar will be installed. Next, the H-profile is mounted. It is necessary for a beautiful docking of siding. Some decide to do without it. However, over time, dust can accumulate there, in addition, moisture can accumulate there.
Accordingly, the joint will be visible. Moreover, with strong gusts of wind, this joint may not withstand and come off. For this reason, it is best to use an H-profile to connect the siding. Next comes the panel assembly. Naturally, the installation begins with the lower starting bar, onto which the next regular bar snaps into place. And so row after row, to the very top. As for the last row, the last panel must be adjusted exactly to size.
This method is used to install siding panels. The main advantage of the technology is that this work can be done without the help of specialists.
If you have already done this work, then you can share your opinion. You may have encountered some problems while working, tell us how you dealt with them. If you have questions, then ask them to us.
Video
This is how siding is properly installed:
And these are typical installation errors:
A photo
