Do-it-yourself installation of vinyl panels. Fixing siding to a wooden house. Internal corner profile

Siding is a material that is intended for exterior wall cladding. Quite often it is used as a decorative coating for interior decoration. Such widespread use is explained by the fact that these panels not only protect the house from external influences, but also give the interior a unique flavor. In addition, this material is relatively cheap and easy to install. But in order for the coating to serve you for many years, you need to know the rules for installing siding and strictly adhere to them.

When installing siding, fasteners made of anti-corrosion materials should be used, otherwise, under the influence of the external environment, they can cause rusty streaks.

Panel installation tools

At the moment, in stores selling goods for construction and repair, most often there are panels made of vinyl. And experts recommend this particular material for self-assembly. Therefore, all of the following rules apply specifically to PVC siding.

Before proceeding with the installation of the panels, prepare the tools that you will need for the job. First of all, they depend on the type of mounts you have chosen. You can mount siding using the following fasteners:

Stainless fasteners - will increase the life of both fasteners and the siding itself.

• nails;
• self-tapping screws (screws);
• construction staples.

Each of these types of mounts has its own advantages. Nails are the simplest and most affordable type of fastening, but for mounting panels with them, you need to have a certain skill. In addition, in order to hammer a nail, you must use both hands. Accordingly, the installation of siding without assistants becomes impossible.

Staples or screws can be installed independently. But using a stapler for a novice master will not be easy. Accordingly, self-tapping screws are the best option. And to install them, you need a screwdriver.

In addition, you will need:

• devices for measuring (construction tape measure, centimeter ruler, square);
• carpenter's knife and scissors for cutting (hacksaw, when it comes to wood siding);
• a simple pencil for marking;
• building level.

If you prepare everything you need in advance, then you will not have to be distracted by searching for it during work.

Rules for choosing fasteners for siding

For proper installation of panels, fasteners made of anti-corrosion materials should be selected. The fact is that the average service life of siding, which is guaranteed by most modern manufacturers, is 30-50 years. No fastener made of steel will last that long. In addition, under the influence of the external environment, fasteners that are not protected by a special coating can cause rusty streaks. And such defects are almost impossible to eliminate.

When choosing screws and nails, pay attention to their length. It should be sufficient to ensure that the fastening tip enters the crate to a depth of at least 2 cm. When installing the panels, you should also look at the fastening cap. Its diameter should not be less than 0.7-0.9 cm. Otherwise, they can simply slip into the siding hole, and reliable fastening will not work.

The rules for the installation of PVC panels provide for certain conditions for the installation of fasteners. The fact is that vinyl tends to change its volumes under the influence of temperature. Moreover, these changes can be very significant (up to 1 cm). And if the siding is installed incorrectly, then the entire wall covering can be deformed. This will spoil not only the appearance of the walls, but also weaken their protection.

Mounting rules

For the correct installation of panels, it is necessary to adhere to several prerequisites:

1. When installing siding, direct your efforts strictly from the bottom up. Press down on the plate until the parts of the lock are securely connected.
2. The fastener (nail, screw or bracket) must be located exactly in the center of the hole intended for them.
3. When installing horizontal siding, fasteners should be at least 39-41 cm apart.
4. It is necessary to install the fasteners so that there is a gap of 1-2 mm from the cap to the surface of the plank. Remember that the siding should "walk" freely enough in the locks.
5. Make sure that the screws enter the plank and the crate below it at an angle of 90 0 degrees. Otherwise, such fastening may interfere with changing the volume of the bar.

Pulling the siding up or to the side can damage the locking mechanism. And this will lead to deformation of the entire coating. And not only in the future, but also when installing adjacent rows. They can warp, and the panels will begin to loosely fit together.

When fixing fasteners, make sure that the head of the nail or screw does not press the bar to the crate. Installing a nail in this way is quite difficult. And for this reason, it is preferable to use screws. It is enough to "drive" it all the way, and then loosen it by one turn.

When installing siding, attention must be paid to the crate. For it, you need to use a well-dried quality tree. Only such a base can guarantee an even and durable coating.

If you need to install fasteners above or below the holes provided by the manufacturers, then in no case do not punch the bar.

Scheme of the facade lathing: 1 - wall, 2 - bracket, 3 - thermal insulation gasket, 4 - anchor dowel, 5 - L-shaped profile, 6 - insulation, 7 - film, 8 - BLOCK HOUSE panels, 9 - corner bracket, 10 - L-shaped profile, 11 - self-tapping press washer, 12 - rondol, 13 - bracket.

It is much more reasonable to first form a nest with a drill and a drill, and only then install the fasteners. In order to protect the fastening of the panels from environmental influences, use special washers made of nylon or plastic. They are quite soft and plastic, so they will not interfere with the natural shift of the panels. And at the same time, such gaskets reliably protect the fasteners from moisture or wind.

The rules for mounting horizontal, vertical or decorative (for example, corner) panels are practically the same. The only difference is the distance from one fastener to another. Vertical and horizontal strips are attached in the same way (there should be approximately 39-41 cm between the screws). But for additional elements, this distance is on average 2 times less. It is 21-25 cm.

Rules for the formation of temperature gaps

When installing siding panels, it is often necessary to join several separate dies together. Manufacturers strongly recommend that at the same time it is imperative to leave so-called temperature gaps between the slats.

Temperature gaps at the cladding nodes: a - joining a horizontal element with a vertical J-profile, b - joining a vertical element with a horizontal one, c - joining horizontal hidden elements, d - joining elements with an overlap, e - joining elements on an H-profile.

Otherwise, with an increase in volume, one siding may rest against another. In this case, the entire surface is deformed. And when the ambient temperature drops, the bar will slip out from under the docking. Then the wall will have to be repaired, replacing the damaged element, which is not at all easy to do.

There is no need to calculate the gap yourself. For a quality product, this parameter is indicated in the instructions that come with the package. But there are some nuances here. As a rule, manufacturers imply a gap width for solid panels. Accordingly, for a cut siding, it should be less, since it cannot increase by the same length as a solid one. Therefore, the specified size must be reduced depending on the length of the bar. If you shortened the siding by half, then the gap should be about 2 times less than the initial one. If cut off by 1/3, then the gap should become the same amount narrower. Usually in practice we are talking about only a few millimeters, which can be ignored. But in some cases this parameter plays an important role.

The nuances of the formation of temperature gaps

In addition to all of the above, it should be borne in mind that the instructions usually indicate the dimensions for only one gap. But if you join 2 horizontal panels, then this number must be doubled. Because when the temperature changes, both adjacent sidings will increase in volume. Accordingly, you need to leave room for both the upper and lower bars.

But when joining vertical panels, you need to leave the distance indicated in the instructions. Since such a panel increases in length by about 2 times more than in width. Accordingly, it requires less space for changing dimensions.

But even if you know these rules, then you must read the instructions for installing siding, because PVC expansion parameters largely depend on the composition from which the product is made.

The self-tapping screw should be fixed exactly in the middle of the hole provided for this.

When forming gaps, it is necessary to take into account the ambient temperature. If it is high enough, then the panels are already expanded and elongated. And if you mount the siding at low temperatures, then after heating the strips will “grow” in volume. Usually, manufacturers in the instructions indicate only the boundary air temperature. That is, the lowest possible, at which the siding can be mounted, and the highest possible. Accordingly, you need to make certain amendments that will be closer to reality.

The size of the temperature gap can also be affected by incorrectly installed strap fasteners. The installation rules state that the self-tapping screw must be fixed exactly in the middle of the hole provided for this. But, of course, no one measures this parameter. And the fastening unit is formed "by eye". Manufacturers also take this into account, so the holes on the panels are oval.

The size of the perforation provides not only for the possible deformation of the siding, but also for an allowance of approximately 2.5 mm. If you fix the fasteners too close to the edge of the hole, then when changing the dimensions, the bar may warp. Therefore, if you installed the panel incorrectly, then you should increase the temperature gap next to it. At the same time, consider the possibility of displacement of the siding in one direction or another. Or simply replace the damaged fasteners with new ones.

How to install siding

Remember that the correct installation of the panels guarantees you a reliable and durable coating. Therefore, be sure to divide your work into stages and then stick to them. An example workflow is as follows:

The installation of the first siding panel is carried out after the installation of all finishing strips.

1. Unpack the new package with siding and let the panels “rest” for 1.5-2 hours at the temperature at which you will be installing.
2. Determine the amount of siding you need and the dimensions of the planks themselves. Do not forget to take into account the size of the temperature gaps. Trim the panels if necessary.
3. The first panel is attached exactly in the middle of the wall, on which the markup has been previously applied. Tools such as a level and a plumb line help you draw lines accurately.
4. Fix the panel by installing fasteners exactly in the center of the holes in the siding intended for this purpose. If there are not enough such "nests" or they are located in an inconvenient place, then pre-drill additional perforation.
5. Check installed panel. If it moves a few millimeters up, down, right and left easily enough, then the siding is installed correctly. Put the panel back in place.

Continue the installation of the coating, adhering to the same rules.

Some nuances of installing siding

When fixing decorative siding (corner profiles, J-rails, etc.), make sure that the fastener assembly does not come into contact with the crossed profile. In order to avoid this, cut it (while providing the necessary temperature gap). Another way out of the situation would be to install a rail over the bar. In this case, the plastic coating will slide and will not interfere with the natural deformation of the coating.

When installing a decorative coating, its appearance is of considerable importance. In order for the siding to look like a uniform canvas, try to “hide” the panel joints in an inconspicuous place. All seams should be directed away from the front door. When finishing the external walls of the house, the overlaps should be directed towards the front door. Since a person usually pays attention to the walls when entering the house, and not when leaving it. And the installation of the side walls occurs from the rear corner of the building to its facade.

Do not try to save material by using the leftovers after trimming the panels. The spoiled appearance of the coating is not worth the money saved. Make sure that items that will be attached to the walls (e.g. drainpipes, lamps, hanging furniture) do not interfere with the natural movement of the panels. To avoid this, expand the holes for the fasteners that you previously made in the siding.

It is not necessary to seal the seams at the junctions with the gutters of the corners and decorative panels, as well as the places of overlaps. And remember that the siding overlap must be changed (shifted) approximately every 2-3 rows. This technique will allow you to mount not only a neat, but also a reliable coating.

Siding is not new. We are accustomed to using different types of this material; it is found both on facades and in interiors, in buildings of all purposes.

How to fix the siding in order to create a flat surface, decorate the facade - the question worries many individual developers.

Hearing that siding began to be used for the first time in America, a Russian carpenter a couple of centuries ago simply shrugged. What siding? Look at the Russian North: half of the churches are sheathed with boards, and even residential buildings were “playful” - they were sheathed with thin wooden planks at different angles - protection from the weather, concern for durability. Once again, "ours" comes to us from the West under a new name. The historical tour is over.

What is modern siding, what types exist, how to properly fix siding to the wall, how to fix it?

To date, this type of finishing panels is produced from a variety of materials:

• Vinyl;
• Acrylic;
• fiber cement;
• Steel;
• Aluminum;
• Wooden.

Most often, vinyl siding is used - very light, easy to install, durable, attractive at a low price. The negative characteristics include fragility: it is pressed through and breaks with an accidental strong impact.

Acrylic siding is stronger than vinyl siding, more resistant to freezing temperatures and UV radiation.

Fiber cement is noticeably heavier, but its strength is much higher than the previous ones. Durable, resistant to temperature fluctuations, has many different designs that mimic natural materials.

Two types of metal siding are produced from galvanized steel sheet painted according to RAL:

1. Rack siding is a durable material that allows you to diversify the color scheme of the facade and protect the wall from negative natural factors.
2. Block house - imitating a log wall. This type of finish, with the positive qualities of a steel lath, gives the wall the aesthetics of a house made of logs.

Aluminum is much lighter than steel, reduces the load on walls and foundations, is durable, but not resistant to mechanical damage.

Wooden siding is a classic of the genre, but in order to maintain the finish in working condition, it requires the renewal of fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnation at intervals of 3-5 years, depending on the composition used.

Siding is produced with a variety of surface designs, it can imitate rubble and brickwork, bark beetle plaster, it can be plain-colored and with a perforated surface. In most cases, individual developers choose vinyl: siding can be fixed to any wall, they are attracted by the low price of the material and the possibility of mounting on wooden rails.

Before installation

All types of panels perform two functions:

1. Aesthetic - decorate the facade.
2. Utilitarian - protect the facade from the weather.

The panels are also mounted according to the same principle: special combs are installed on the rails, panels are put on them. The layout of the panels can be varied: horizontal, vertical, at an angle. What to mount siding on? Two options: special fasteners (more often used for metal and fiber cement) or wooden beams.

Like any other work in building a house, it requires accuracy, but it is quite accessible to a beginner. To obtain a high-quality, even surface of the cladding, compliance with the rules is required, in case of non-compliance with which there will be no one to blame for poor-quality work:

1. Before installation, prepare the wall - clean it of dirt, repair the plaster if necessary, level the surface, dismantle the ebbs and aprons.
2. When - treat the walls with fungicidal and fire-fighting compounds.
3. Check the tightness of the connections - window and door filling, input-output communications.
4. Install the guides strictly vertically, aligning the front with gaskets or special branded fasteners.
5. Observe the tolerances for the initial and final strips, within the openings.

IMPORTANT: if necessary, insulate the house and perform cladding possible options:

1. The combination of processes, in this case we get the system "ventilated facade".
2. With simultaneous insulation, the guide rails of the insulation system and the cladding are attached in parallel.
3. Division of work, installation of siding on an insulated surface.

In the first case, it is necessary to use special fasteners and slab fibrous insulation with a laminated surface or geotextile, fasten the cladding at a distance of at least 40 mm from the insulation.

In the second case, it is possible to use expanded polystyrene plates and “wet plaster”.

It is preferable to perform work in the third way, the cladding is mounted on an already leveled surface.

It would be useful to clean the space from vegetation and debris at a distance of up to 50 cm from the wall, and when finishing a house with a height of 2 or more floors, the construction of scaffolding that can be rented.

Necessary materials and tools

Having chosen the type of plank, we purchase the materials necessary for work:

• straps starting, finishing, corner;
• slats for framing window and door openings;
• joint strips masking the vertical seam between the rails;
• soffits located under the roof overhang;
• beam for framing.

Tools needed:

• Saw (jigsaw or grinder).
• Drill, screwdriver.
• Hammer.
• Roulette, building level.
• Pliers.
• Ladder stepladder.

Required protective equipment: goggles, respirator, gloves. Having prepared the scope of work, we proceed to installation.

Mounting

Work begins with the implementation of the lathing from a bar with a minimum section of 20 x 40 mm. The timber must be dried to 15-22% moisture, impregnated with fungicide and antipyrine.

With a horizontal layout of the siding, we fasten the beam vertically, with a vertical layout of the rail - horizontally with a step of no more than 600 mm. We check the vertical with a plumb line. Be sure to install the bars along the edges of the openings of windows and doors.

To fasten the beam to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws, when fastening to an insulated wall - dowel - with screws longer than the thickness of the insulation layer plus the thickness of the beam by 50 mm. Attach the vinyl siding to the timber with galvanized self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT: we take into account seasonal temperature expansion - when fastening, we do not tighten the screws tightly, for additional elements we make a gap of 4-5 mm, in winter - 7-9 mm.

1. The lower horizontal beam along the perimeter of the building is attached first, the upper cornice beam is the second, then the vertical ordinary ones starting from the corner of the house.
2. The next stage is the installation of the starting J-shaped plank, which we fasten 4 cm above the intended level of the lining, with a gap of 6 mm from the edge of the corner bar and with the planks overlapping each other by 12 mm.
3. Next - corner and docking profiles, which are cut from below and above to the middle of the first mounting hole in the bar. We measure and install the joint strips depending on the length of the main rails and the presence of openings in the wall.
4. We install the second siding panel, fixing it in the recess of the starting bar, inserting it into the groove of the corner and docking profile.
5. We repeat the operation for all facades.
6. We mount the final profile - soffit.

In the video you will see how the overlapped siding is mounted on a wooden frame.

Installed correctly, siding will last for many years, decorating the house and delighting the owners. And the question: siding - a forced decision? - will not arise. Siding is a hit of facade design!

You can improve the appearance of a house or any other extension by installing siding, moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material is also used for facing industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels with a length of 3 to 4 meters, each of which has a latch-lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. Siding has good performance and aesthetic appearance. Of the positive qualities can be noted:

• makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
• thanks to a large selection of panels, the house can be given an individual style;
• high-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
• installation can be done independently;
• is a safe material;
• when dirty, it is easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Poor-quality and cheap siding burns out under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures, and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is made of several types:

1. Metal;
2. Vinyl;
3. Basement (fiber cement);
4. Acrylic;
5. Wooden.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

• Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride and can mimic stone, wood, and brick finishes in appearance. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and decay. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and have a low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.

• Acrylic siding is a new finishing material, and technically almost similar to vinyl siding. At the same time, it is very durable, has a more resistant coating to UV rays. The panels have a long service life and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and non-flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - the high cost.

• Metal siding is steel, aluminum and galvanized. This material is strong, durable and environmentally friendly. The panels do not change their original shape with temperature changes and are resistant to oil and chemicals. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. Metal siding has several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. When it rains, there is a lot of noise. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

• Wooden siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly material and has excellent thermal insulation performance. Produced from coniferous and larch wood species. To prevent the panels from darkening and cracking, a protective coating is applied to them. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

• Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. The outer side of the plate has a special coating that protects against moisture and sunlight. The material is non-combustible, and also it does not rot or grow moldy. Fiber cement siding is resistant to mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life - 25-50 years, depends on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of battens with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, it is necessary to make a reliable frame. The crate can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. Attached to the walls with brackets. The racks of the crate are fixed opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the crate is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making a crate:

1. The surface of the walls is prepared, drains and all protruding parts are removed.
2. If necessary, the walls are primed, wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.
3. Using a level and a plumb line, places for attaching suspensions are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, retreat 15 cm from the edges of the walls, and 10 cm from the inner corner.
4. Drill holes, insert dowels and mount U-shaped brackets.
5. Beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, a rope is pulled between them.
6. The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
7. In increments of 40 cm, horizontal metal profiles are installed.
8. Above the plinth, above and below windows and doors, horizontal elements of the crate are fixed with the help of a “crab” connector.
9. Mineral insulation is laid between the posts and under the crate, overlapped at the joints. It is attached to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.
10. The mineral wool and the crate are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are stacked on top of each other and glued with construction tape. It is fixed to the crate with double-sided tape and counter rails.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. The heat-insulating material is put on suspensions and fixed with dowels-umbrellas, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and a crate is mounted for installing siding.

For regions with a warm climate, thermal insulation is not done, and for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starting bar

Before mounting the starting bar, ebbs are installed. They are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance between them of 40 cm. When docking, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. The overlap width is at least 2.5 cm. A building level is used to indicate an even angle.

The starting or starting bar refers to the elements that carry the load. It is installed from the upper edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is being installed on it. The initial bar is fixed, referring to the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starting bar:

• from the lower border of the future sheathing recede upwards by 4 cm;
• using a level, make marks on all vertical racks of the crate or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
• the initial bar is set with the upper edge to the marks;
• fixed with screws in the middle of the factory holes;
• the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
• the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

Why do you need a J-profile

• The J-profile is a versatile, load-bearing siding element. It happens ordinary, arched (flexible) and wide.
• A regular J-profile is needed to complete the facing row at the end of the wall, to sheath the edge of the eaves or to replace the finishing panel.
• Wide is usually used to decorate door and window openings.
• Arched is used along the edge of the opening, which has the shape of an arch. The panel has notches where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
• J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to install siding

Siding is fastened to the facade of the building or to the crate. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

• Vinyl panels should only be fastened to the factory holes.
• For wooden cladding, it is recommended to use galvanized fixing fittings.
• The elements should be fastened evenly and straight, in the center of the factory hole.
• When fixing the siding to each other, they press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
• When installing the planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the crate to expand the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Fastened after the starting profile. Designed to close and fasten the edges of the siding, they also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

• mount the panel so that its lower part protrudes 0.5-0.7 mm above the starting bar, and the upper edge does not reach the eaves by 5-7 mm;
• begin to fix the profile from top to bottom;
• the first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the factory hole, the rest of the fasteners are placed in the middle of the holes;
• the distance between the screws is made 20 cm;
• to lengthen the corners, holes for fasteners are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
• if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners are cut at the corner profile to the height of the starting strip;
• internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to lengthen siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting bar is placed horizontally to lengthen the panels. The connecting profile closes the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable, protects against precipitation under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful, and look like one whole.

You can also lengthen siding panels using the "overlap" method. Profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The overlapping length of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

H-profile installation

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal sheathing panels if the length of the wall is greater than the size of the facing material. It is also used when connecting soffit (cornice) siding.

The fastening of the connecting strip starts from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made in the upper part of the hole, the subsequent screws are twisted in the middle of the holes. The H-profile from the cornice should recede 0.5 cm, and be 6 mm below the starting bar. On both sides, the connecting profile has an indent of 0.6 cm from the launch panels, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is inserted into the H-profile not to the stop, but to leave a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For a smooth and neat finish of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The first siding panel is inserted with the end side into the corner bar, and the lower part is inserted into the initial bend-lock and snapped into place. Then, if necessary, it is pulled up to align the horizontal row. Twisting the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent strips for thermal expansion.

Fasteners must not be fully screwed in. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. The profile must not be pulled up after the locking connection on the starter bar has snapped into place.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in the same way - one side of the siding is placed in the corner groove, and the other in the H-profile or in the opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the crate.

Facing the facade with siding is mounted to the top of the wall, but so that there is room for the installation of the finishing strip and the last profile.

Siding finish strip

The finish strip is a decorative element that is used to create a beautiful and airtight finish on the top edge of the last panel. Mounted with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel latching facing up.

The order of installation of the finishing strip:

• the bar is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the eaves;
• the distance from the top of the finishing bar to the installed panels is measured, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off from it;
• at the cut-off panel (without the upper part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
• for the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part is inserted into the lock fastening of the finishing panel and snapped into place.

Fasteners are screwed on the finish bar through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to siding around windows and doorways

Before sheathing the siding, the openings of windows and doors are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Rails are fixed along the perimeter of the inner side of the window (door), to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower window strips, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm, and bent in the form of "tongues". The upper and lower trim is inserted into the groove of the finish, then fixed with screws to the crate. When installing the side window trims, the "tongues" are brought inward.

If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the desired depth along the width of the opening. At the cut point, holes are made for fasteners, which should match the factory ones in size. After that, the siding panel is slipped under the window element and fixed. An ebb is installed at the bottom of the window opening, the upper edge of which rises from the window along the entire length. The width of the window tide should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

Above the window (door), the profile is mounted in the same way. For wall cladding on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they bring it under the platbands.

When wall cladding is made with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window slats is done after the installation of the panels.

Pediment sheathing

At the final stage, proceed to facing the pediment. If the attic will be used for living quarters, then the gable is insulated.

First prepare the roof overhangs and the end of the roof. Remove old sheathing, ebbs and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The crate under the gable siding is done in the same order as on the walls.

Gable siding installation:

• if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then the tide strips are mounted;
• along the perimeter of the pediment, J-slats are fixed or the starting one is below, and the finish one is above;
• corners are made from a metal profile and strips of external corners are installed;
• since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a piece of siding is used as a template to apply cutting lines to it;
• the connection of the panels is done with an overlap or with the help of an H-bar;
• top - ridge siding sheet, fixed from above directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material - soffit. For the installation of panels, the edges of the eaves are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-strips are attached to them. Soffit siding is flexible enough that it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and is wound into the grooves of the J-bar. A click is heard when the panel is correctly inserted. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The installation of roofing strips - drippers completes the cladding of the building. They are placed on the outside of the slopes.

You can install siding with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that it is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated amount (for fitting). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.

Do you want your home to look brand new without a big investment? Then an excellent and, most importantly, modern option is to finish the facade with siding. It is used for finishing a variety of buildings: the facade of a bathhouse, a garage, a house and others. It prevents the direct hit of the sun's rays on the walls, closes from rain, protects the house from temperature changes, and is also an excellent protection from the wind. Moreover, it is easy to operate. It is easy to tidy up by washing and wiping with a damp cloth. These are just some of the benefits of choosing wall siding. Now let's look at how to do the installation of siding with your own hands, find out what tool you need for this, and how to prepare for the work.

Tool and equipment

Before starting the preparatory work, you should make sure that all the tools are available. To install siding you will need:

• tin scissors,
• Bulgarian,
• sharp knife,
• perforator,
• punch,
• jigsaw,
• stapler,
• level,
• hammer,
• roulette,
• protective glasses.

In addition to the tool, you should purchase all building material in advance. In addition to the siding itself and its components, you need to stock up on nails, screws, staples, etc. Now that you have everything at hand, you can start preparatory work.

Preparatory work

It should be noted that siding cannot be installed by yourself. Therefore, take care of a reliable partner. Together, using a water level (or its laser variation), you can mark the facade. An exact mark is made on each corner of the building.

Note! It is extremely important that the last mark is the same as the first mark. If the marks do not match, then the measurements are inaccurate. Accordingly, the procedure must be repeated. If you ignore this, then you will end up with uneven walls.

After you need to find the highest mark, focusing on the base. Further, a mark is placed on each corner from the base, which will show the level of the first strip.

We make a crate for siding

One of the important stages of work is the manufacture of crates. To do this, you can use wooden bars.

Note! If the siding will be laid horizontally, then the crate should only be installed vertically, and vice versa.

For the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to prepare enough bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm and 25 × 80 mm. When buying, make sure that they are perfectly even, otherwise, after installing the siding, the wall will repeat the shape of the "sea wave". When installing the crate, it is necessary to follow the distance between the bars, which should be 30-40 cm. If you want to pre-insulate the facade, then the crate is first made along the width of the insulation. The frame for the insulation will be made perpendicular to the crate for the siding. It is also necessary to upholster the windows with wooden bars. After laying the insulation, the surface must be covered with a waterproofing film using a stapler. This film must be laid with an overlap of ten centimeters wide.

When everything is ready, you can start making the frame directly for the siding. For this, you can use a metal profile. This has its advantages. For example, wooden blocks need to be treated with an antiseptic against corrosion. Moreover, under the influence of weather conditions, the bars can be deformed or dry out. Because of this, the siding may not hold up well. As for the metal profile, it does not threaten him.

Siding installation. Technology

When installing siding, one obligatory condition must be observed. It consists in ensuring that the siding moves under the influence of a temperature difference. To this end, nails should be driven into the holes provided in the center. It is also important to drive nails carefully. Do not use excessive force to drive them in.

Note! Do not nail the head of the nail close to the batten panel. It is recommended to leave a gap of 1.5 mm. This also applies to self-tapping screws, if you will fasten the siding with them.

Under no circumstances should the panel be stretched. Otherwise, the subsequent panel may become uneven, and this will lead to curvature. There can be a distance of up to 400 mm between nails.

The sequence of installation work

Window trim

The first step is the facing of the window opening. To this end, you should take the window strip and cut it to the desired size.

The strip, which is mounted on the inner perimeter of the slope, is installed to the final strip. To begin with, the bar is installed on the lower slope, then on the side, and only lastly on the upper slope.

Basement siding installation

Before starting the installation of siding on the facade, first decide whether it will be installed on the plinth. If yes, then this work needs to be done first. To do this, set the starting bar. It is extremely important to install it exactly horizontally. To accurately join the first panel with the corner, its edge is trimmed. Next, the next panel is installed. When it comes to the last panel, it must be cut so that there is a small gap between the panel and the corner.

Wall siding installation

First of all, the basement ebb line is beaten off with the help of a level. It is on top of it that the starting bar will be installed. Next, the H-profile is mounted. It is necessary for a beautiful docking of siding. Some decide to do without it. However, over time, dust can accumulate there, in addition, moisture can accumulate there.

Accordingly, the joint will be visible. Moreover, with strong gusts of wind, this joint may not withstand and come off. For this reason, it is best to use an H-profile to connect the siding. Next comes the panel assembly. Naturally, the installation begins with the lower starting bar, onto which the next regular bar snaps into place. And so row after row, to the very top. As for the last row, the last panel must be adjusted exactly to size.

This method is used to install siding panels. The main advantage of the technology is that this work can be done without the help of specialists.

If you have already done this work, then you can share your opinion. You may have encountered some problems while working, tell us how you dealt with them. If you have questions, then ask them to us.

Video

This is how siding is properly installed:

And these are typical installation errors:

A photo

Recently, siding has been used in the sheathing of both brick and wooden houses, so many will be interested in how to assemble siding with their own hands.

Siding is a modern material that allows you to quickly and inexpensively clad the outside of any building and give it a beautiful and neat appearance.

The use of siding began at the beginning of the last century in Canada and America.

They made siding from wood and clad it with mostly frame houses that were popular there.

Today, siding is made from a variety of materials - steel, aluminum, vinyl.

The most popular and affordable option is vinyl siding, which can look like stone, brick, wood or logs.

It is made from polyvinyl chloride and various plasticizers, making the material very strong and durable.

How to install siding, look at the video:

To properly veneer a house with this material, you need to know its main characteristics. What are the pros and cons of vinyl siding?

• this material does not rot, does not get wet from moisture, does not rust;
• the weight of the siding is very small, so the decoration of the building will not bear any load on the foundation and walls;
• installation is quite simple, so it can be attached with your own hands and in a short time;
• does not fade in the sun;
• the service life is very long, manufacturers give a fifty-year warranty on this material;
• You can mount this coating on any surface - brick, wood, cinder block, sandstone and more.

• this combustible material, and even despite the fact that manufacturers have recently introduced fire-fighting components into the siding, it still remains flammable;
• at very low temperatures it becomes brittle, starts to crumble, if you live in a region where the temperature often drops to -20 degrees and below in winter, it is not advisable to use siding there;
• it is also not advisable to mount the material on walls at temperatures below 10 degrees, as it becomes brittle.

Types of siding

Timber siding. Log panels and boards have been very popular lately.

The log can have a variety of shades, everyone can choose the finish to their taste.

Houses finished with log-like siding look very natural and natural.

Panels under a log will perfectly fit into design of a summer residence or a country house.

If you are building a country style house or an alpine house, then a log will be an excellent design option.

Stone siding. Stone siding will make your home respectable and sophisticated.

Panels imitating stone are used for facing both the entire house and only its lower part - the foundation.

Stone siding can be combined with other panels - brick or log.

Some experts combine two or three types of stone-like panels in the decoration of one house, getting very unusual solutions.

Stone siding can be painted in different colors, as well as depict the texture of different stones - granite, marble, sandstone, tuff.

Brick siding. This version of the panels can be used both for small cottages and for large country houses.

These panels are also available in various colors. Combinations of brick-like panels with stone-like panels look beautiful.

Siding wall cladding technology

The material is produced in strips, the width of which is 20 - 25 cm, and the length is up to 4 m.

Before starting work on facing the house, you should calculate the amount of material that you need to purchase.

A preliminary calculation will help save the amount of siding and fittings and not buy too much.

Manufacturers of this material also offer the necessary fittings and fasteners for purchase, which are useful for cladding.

Wall preparation

The big advantage of this cladding is that the walls of the house do not need to be prepared for work in any way.

If you mount the siding on a metal frame or crate, then the surface of the wall can be anything.

Before installing the coating, dirt, old cladding, as well as all protruding elements - platbands, skirting boards, drains, lamps, cornices are removed from the surface of the walls.

If there are potholes, cracks or large irregularities on the wall, they should first be leveled with cement mortar.

If you do not do this, then moisture will collect in cracks and holes, which will freeze in winter and lead to even more destruction of the walls of the house.

If the house is built of wood, then its walls must be cleaned of fungus and mold, and then the wood should be treated with a special protective antiseptic deep-penetrating agent that will protect the wood from damage by rot and fungus.

Preparing the walls for installation with your own hands on the video in the section.

Lathing installation

When the walls of the house visually look fairly even, many are wondering if a crate is needed in this case, or can the siding be attached directly to the wall.

Experts say that the crate must always be fixed.

The crate is used to fasten the panels. The appearance of the cladding will directly depend on the quality of the crate.

Before you attach the frame, you need to check how smooth the walls you have.

The crate also becomes necessary if you want to not only clad the building, but also insulate it.

To fix the material to the wall, a crate is erected, for which a metal profile or wooden slats are used.

The metal frame is made of an aluminum profile, and the wooden frame is made of bars from 20 to 40 mm.

Wood for the frame must be treated with a special antiseptic.

If you have chosen a wooden version of the frame for yourself, then the length of the timber should be greater than the height of the walls.

So there will be no need to connect the bars together, which will make the structure even more durable.

The beam for the frame must be well dried so that after the erection of the frame and its lining, the bars do not deform.

The moisture content of the tree can be no higher than 12 - 15%. Using poor quality wood can cause the cladding to bend and crack over time.

Therefore, it is still better, despite the high cost, to make a metal frame.

You should know that in any case, you need to use a metal frame for basement siding, since this part of the frame is close to the ground and moisture.

You can watch the installation of the frame with your own hands on our video.

If the frame is metal, then you need to purchase a galvanized LED profile with stiffeners, there should be bends and indented points on its sides, which increases its strength.

Galvanized thickness from 0.4 to 0.55.

The crate is attached to the walls in a vertical direction. Using a square and a water level, you need to check whether the crate is correctly fixed.

Installation begins with an angular vertical guide from the left corner of the house.

You should also mount the crate around windows and doors. In addition, additional rails are also attached to drains, various communications, and lighting fixtures.

In the process of do-it-yourself cladding, most often they also insulate and waterproof walls, gables and a plinth, for which glass wool, stone wool or foam plastic is placed between the frame guides.

It is important to know that the insulated space between the cladding and the wall must be well ventilated.

Ventilation is needed to prevent rotting under the siding. Therefore, laying the insulation, you should also lay ventilated channels.

Attaching siding to decking

When installing the coating on the walls with your own hands, the plinth and pediment of the building, you should follow the basic rules.

First of all, one should take into account the property of the material to expand in heat and shrink at sub-zero temperatures.

If you fix the material in winter, then you need to leave a gap of 8 - 10 mm between the panels for expansion. In summer, the gap can be 6 mm.

To attach the siding to the frame, use special mounting hardware:

• corner strips for external and internal corners;
• carrier bar, which is installed at the bottom;
• profiles covering the uneven edge of the panels serve as a decor;
• profiles for finishing windows and doors, ebbs;
• fittings for facing the pediment - flexible profiles for windows, chamfers, spotlights.

The panels themselves and all related fittings must be mounted on galvanized self-tapping screws.

You need to screw them into the panel loosely, there should be a distance of 11 mm between the cap and the surface of the siding. This gap is for the material to expand when heated.

You need to start fastening the strips from the bottom up if you are using horizontal siding, and from left to right for vertical cladding.

When you attach vinyl siding with your own hands, you should hear a characteristic click, which indicates that the panel is installed tightly and securely.

Do-it-yourself siding fastening on video.