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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These building rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's take a look at the main JV requirements related to private construction. I will allow myself to comment on some points based on my own experience:

• Closed gravity pipelines should be used to drain wastewater into the general sewerage system;

Sometimes the terrain necessitates the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows for a limited time to operate the sewerage system in the absence of power supply.

• The pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed using the fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows for some bend in the spacer (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains its elasticity even at subzero temperatures, so there is no need to fear cracks and pipe breakdowns.

• The slope of the spacer must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluent will be retained in areas where it is minimal.
This will increase the likelihood of blockages.

• To connect the horizontal section with the riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. The exception is the crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning if a blockage occurs.
A rope or wire, resting against the opposite wall of the straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two bathtubs on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique crosspiece;

This is necessary so that during a salvo discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
With a leaky connection of the bath tubing, overflow of the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics that remain unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
• In the basement, the internal sewerage system is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, it is better to leave the pipes accessible for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, which has risen up between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed to its full thickness with cement mortar;

In a wooden floor, polyurethane foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the propagation of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• Embedding of pipes into the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens is not allowed;
• The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (drain pipes) that are connected to the upper points of the system. The fan pipe is led out 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its drainage part;

• Installation of deflectors on the drain pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit traction in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-carried debris and prevent precipitation from entering it in a downpour.
For the owners of cesspools who pay for waste disposal, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The device of an intra-house sewage system should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at bends;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest yard sewer well (for example, when located in the basement or basement floor), the corresponding sewer section is equipped with a sewer valve or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water seals to prevent sewage gases from entering the premises;

The joints of the elbows and siphons with the sewer are carefully sealed with rubber sealing couplings. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be completed with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with mobility limitations in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewer is 50 mm. For toilets - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewerage system, including two baths in one room, subject to a simultaneous salvo discharge.

Noise

The sound of water pouring in pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sewer sections in the underground, basement or behind false walls.... Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the dwelling, close it with a box made of gypsum plasterboard or wall panels... It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used in this capacity); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is advisable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewage system. Thanks to the mineral filler and variable layer density, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 - 4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own system of diameters, which is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• Use sound-absorbing clamps to secure the riser equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to properly assemble a sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic rules for installation:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter-slope will become a place of permanent blockages: it will collect silt and fatty deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be no more than 8 to 10 pipe diameters apart from each other. If you increase the step between the clamps, the unsecured sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counter-slope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such an attachment will not allow them to shift under their own weight.

The sockets of pipes and fittings should be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, over which bulky debris (paper, rags, etc.) can get caught in it.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, do not forget to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is a below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to deburr the inside of the pipe and chamfer it from the outside. Burrs will pick up wastewater-borne hair, tissue fibers and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate assembly of the joint.

If the pipe is forced into the socket, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other water-based lubricant. Do not use machine oil and other fuels and lubricants for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With a hidden gasket (in boxes and false walls), it is better to collect connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the bell to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewage system to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, significant traction will not arise in it. In addition, all sockets of plumbing fixtures were carefully sealed.

It was not so: after a while, a characteristic smell of sewage appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushed in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The vacuum arising in this case in the upper part of the riser sucked water from the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was predictably solved by installing a funnel at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewer sections is often practiced. So, in Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the soil surface. Laying pipes for drainage from the second floor along the facade is also practiced.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of internal sewage to the septic tank along the facade: I did not want to spoil the ceiling and the renovated first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in a warm climatic zone. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating one. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is fixed heats up.

The installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. By reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces off-target heat loss;
• Since the aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally secured with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of the cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that it is necessary to leave the termination and heat shrinkage between the cable and the cold end outside the container with drains.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat-shrinkable tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active medium.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of the sewage system is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

In individual construction, sewerage is a complex set of engineering equipment designed for efficient and safe disposal of wastewater.

Its main purpose is to collect wastewater into a single line and transport it for disposal.

But it is precisely the high-quality preparation and arrangement of the sewerage system that largely determines the comfort in the house.

All pipes used in sewer systems are classified according to the material of manufacture, the length of the unit element and the diameter. The most widespread are pipes made of the following materials.

Cast iron

Despite the fact that cast iron pipes have almost disappeared from the building materials market, if necessary, they can be ordered today. Their main advantage is high mechanical strength., allowing you to lay shallow sewer lines even under the road.

At the same time, a large the strength of cast iron is very unsuccessfully combined with high brittleness... At the same time, cast iron drains silt up very quickly, require regular cleaning and have a considerable cost.

PVC (polyvinyl chloride)

Differs in cheapness and acceptable performance. The main disadvantage of PVC is its high hardness. As a result, pipelines made of this material resonate very strongly and make noise when sewage passes through them.

The strength of the material also leaves much to be desired. It is possible to lay PVC sewers only in highly compacted soil or inside a protective box.

Polyethylene

Pipes made of this material are distinguished by such qualities as:

• elasticity, due to which the polyethylene sewage system, even after complete freezing, returns to its original geometry and can be operated further;
• insensitivity to chemical reagents;
• the possibility of laying in moving soils.

Main disadvantages:

• softens at 80 degrees, what can lead to deformation of the pipes;
• great wear and tear when passing abrasive particles.

Therefore, for sewage systems, the option of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene is more suitable. This material is more durable and able to withstand high temperatures without deformation or destruction.

Polypropylene

For sewerage in a private house, polypropylene is of greatest interest. It has a lot of advantages:

• acceptable cost;
• excellent wear resistance allowing you not to worry if solid abrasive particles enter the sewer;
• softens only at 140 degrees x, allowing even boiling water to be drained into the sewer for as long as you like;
• resistant to chemicals. Only large volumes of concentrated acid can damage polypropylene pipes.

At the same time, when laying the external polypropylene sewage system, it should be well insulated. At temperatures below -5 degrees, the pipe will lose its elasticity and may crack.

The diameter of the pipe in a private house depends on the purpose of the main section:

• 40 or 50 mm for washbasins, kitchen sinks, bathtubs and other plumbing fixtures;
• 110 mm for toilet, risers and mains.

The increased diameter of the pipe for connecting the toilet is necessary not only to simplify the descent of fecal matter. When the tank is completely drained through a narrow pipe, a vacuum effect may appear, which is fraught with disruption of the operation of all siphons in the system.

Sewerage scheme

A sewage scheme should be drawn up taking into account such factors, how:

• the expected volume of wastewater;
• soil characteristics;
• climatic features of the area (seasonal temperature drops, precipitation).

The system should consist of three main elements:

• internal sewerage network;
• external highway;
• septic tank (cesspool).

For the calculation of sewer systems, several rules apply.

1. When laying sewer pipes, it is necessary to minimize the number of junctions, joints and connections.
2. If the house has several floors, then rooms with plumbing fixtures should be placed one above the other... This will allow the use of common risers.
3. The kitchen and bathroom are optimally located in adjacent rooms as close to the sewer as possible.

The diagram must reflect the exact location and characteristics of the following elements:

• sewer pipes with indication of material, length and diameter;
• places of the device of turns, branches and inspection hatches;
• plumbing appliances;
• risers and manifolds;
• branch line b;
• septic tank.

The scheme of the sewer system, as a result, should include the full amount of information necessary for its installation.

Device

To install a septic tank on the site, you will need to prepare a pit. Its dimensions will be determined by the dimensions of the selected septic tank model and the characteristics of the soil. If the soil is very mobile, then the size of the pit should be increased by 25-40 cm for each dimension.

This stock will allow you to fill in a concrete box for mechanical protection of the septic tank... In depth, the pit should be calculated so that the neck of the installed septic tank is level with the ground.

The depth of the trench for the sewer main should be less than 70-80 cm. This will protect it from freezing. In this case, one should take into account the terrain. If the house is located much higher than the septic tank, then the trench near the foundation should be deeper. The minimum distance to the building foundation is 5 m.

The main pipe should be laid at a slight angle towards the septic tank... For this, the optimal increase in the depth of the trench should be about 3 mm per 1 m. Such an inclination will ensure the smooth passage of drains. With a smaller slope, there are congestions.

Exceeding the specified slope can lead to the fact that the water will drain too quickly into the septic tank, not having time to carry away the fecal matter. This is also fraught with congestion.

To make it easier to control the depth of the trench, it is worth preparing a wooden bar with divisions in advance. Graduations are drawn for certain distances from the foundation. For example, at two meters from the house, the depth should be 800, at four - 806, etc.

As you move away from home, the depth should always increase.... Its reduction in any area is unacceptable. Even a small "hump" will lead not only to the difficulty of flow, but also to the appearance of an airlock, which will further worsen the situation.

Turns in the highway can also complicate the flow. They should be avoided whenever possible. If you cannot do without bending, you should organize the rotation of the maximum possible radius. At the turning point, it is desirable to arrange a revision well.

Particular attention should be paid to the depth of the sewer if it runs under a car park or road. In this case, it should be increased by several tens of centimeters.

To prevent the pipe from sinking in the ground, the bottom of the trench must be compacted with a sand cushion. The thickness of the pillow is 10-15 cm.

For medium and cold climatic zones, the sewer line must be insulated. As a heater, canvases made of polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene with a shielding foil layer can be used.

Hatches in inspection wells and collectors require especially careful insulation. In a rather mild climate, only the upper part of the pipe should be insulated.

The elements of the internal sewer network should be reduced to a common riser that serves as a collector. The optimal place for laying horizontal pipe sections is in the floor screed. In this case, it is desirable to give the pipe a slight slope.

It is not recommended to use 90 degree elbows in sewer systems. It is better to arrange pipe bends using several bends at 30 or 45 degrees.

Ventilation

Effective ventilation for a sewage system in a private house is necessary for several reasons.

1. This will allow the septic tank to function normally. During the decomposition of effluents, gases are released, an excess of which can stop this process. Ventilation will facilitate gas removal.
2. If atmospheric pressure is maintained in the system, then this will improve her work... Without ventilation, water hammer and the appearance of vacuum zones are possible.
3. The ventilated sewage system can last longer e than her sealed version.

The easiest way is to organize ventilation by installing a fan pipe, which is a vertical continuation of the riser. The upper cut of the funnel pipe is brought out above the level of the roof at a distance of at least 70 cm. It is impossible to combine general ventilation in the house with a funnel pipe.

Prices for materials and installation

Prices for materials for sewage systems depend on their material of manufacture and linear dimensions... Roughly they will be as follows:

• PPR-pipe for internal sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm, length 1 m - 830 rubles;
• the same with a diameter of 50 mm - 720 rubles;
• revision 50 mm - 150 rubles;
• plug 50 mm - 10 rubles;
• toilet connection unit 110 × 87 - 200 rubles;
• PVC pipe for external sewerage 5 m long - 1200 rubles;
• septic tank for 300 l (Ecoprom Rostok Mini) - 37,000 rubles.

The total cost of the system will depend on the number and distance of plumbing fixtures, as well as the distance to the septic tank.

If it is planned to attract third-party workers for the sewage device, then the prices will be approximately as follows:

• installation of internal sewerage - 175-620 rubles. for 1 r.m .;
• plumbing connection - from 200 rubles;
• installation of an external line 100 mm - 200-350 rubles. for 1 lm

When performing work on your own, the price of installation will only be the time spent.

Sewerage depth in a private house - installation instructions

When laying the sewage system, it should be borne in mind that the depth of its conduction, laying both the external and internal parts is an extremely important and responsible matter. The efficiency of the sewage system depends on this.

If you decide to start laying sewers in your home, it should be noted that here you need to take into account many important factors, you should study many subtleties, for example, at what depth should be laid.

At what depth to lay the sewer

To date, many new ideas have appeared in the sewage system. The principles that were relevant for only 20-30 years, today no one is satisfied. For example, if it used to be considered quite decent to have a toilet on the street, today it is just an example of laziness. If you do not want to do this kind of work yourself, then you can easily find specialists who can easily perform the entire scope of work. But, if you want to save money, it's easier to do it yourself. The easiest way would be to use a septic tank.

It is installed in a pit dug next to the house. Moreover, the distance to the house should be at least 5 meters. By depth - the septic tank should be immersed in the soil to a depth of 1.5 meters. In the pit itself, you can make a special sarcophagus of concrete so that the septic tank cannot be destroyed by soil pressure, it is not flooded with groundwater, etc.

Accordingly, according to the installation depth of the septic tank, the depth of the sewer pipes can also be calculated. It should be noted that the presence of knees, or turns, is not welcomed from the house to the septic tank. It is best if the pipe is straight.

The pipes themselves should be placed at a depth slightly above the average freezing depth, while the laying depth should not be less than 70-80 cm. In most cases, the pipe is laid at a depth of 50 cm.

Such a depth value is relevant only if there is no road on the surface, or there is no other site that will be cleared of snow in winter.

How to measure the depth of a sewer in a private house

It should be noted separately that when laying sewer pipes, there are several more details that must be taken into account in the work:

• Use pipes of sufficient diameter;
• When laying pipes, the slope rate must be observed, which is 0.03 meters for each meter of pipe;
• Today, pipes from a wide variety of materials can be used.

If you decide to use a septic tank, the depth of the sewage system should depend on the area in which the house is located, as well as on the point where the sewer pipe exits the house, the place where the septic tank itself is located.

When installing pipes, the angle of inclination must be observed. must be located so that natural drainage is produced in it, no blockages are created.

In the house, you can use many turning points and connection points for pipes, but on the street there should be a minimum number of such connections, moreover, pipe turns are not encouraged.

Why is sewer depth important?

There are many factors associated with this. In particular, if the pipes are laid at the level of freezing, the liquid may cool down, congestions will appear, which will lead to a malfunction of the sewage system - it simply will not be possible to operate it until warming. The minimum number of connections will also prevent the appearance of congestion, if you avoid turns on the external lining of the sewage system - you can avoid the unpleasant moment - the need to tear off the pipes, clear the congestions.

If it is not possible to avoid turns, it is imperative to make a well at the junction point, which can be accessed at any time.

Thus, in the event of malfunctions in the sewerage system, you can easily check the quality of the connections, you can clean the pipes.

In addition, it is advisable to lay pipes based on the depth of soil freezing. It should be noted that each region has a different depth of soil freezing. Therefore, to determine the appropriate depth. then use the reference table in the following figure.

How to insulate, only on top or around the pipe

To avoid many risks, to extend the life of the sewer system, the pipes can be insulated. The best option would be to use polyurethane foam. A stainless pipe will be wrapped with this material, and a polyethylene sheath is used on top. This will help protect the pipes from freezing.

Pipes should be laid below the freezing point of the soil, this by itself is a fairly effective method.

You may be interested in information about whether you need

Particular attention should be paid to the insulation of pipes at joint points, bends, etc. In most cases, this is where more problems appear. Therefore, the insulation of these points of your sewerage system is essential.

Rice. 5 Insulation of pipe bends

In European countries, an electric cable is used as pipe heating, which is laid along with the pipe, warming the soil near it.

For example, in our country, laying pipes in the central and southern parts should be done to a depth of about a meter. As for the northern regions, the depth there should be much greater. Again, for the northern regions, the issue of thermal insulation should be more carefully approached.

The best option would be to use fiberglass, or mineral wool. Similar materials are used for pipes that are located above the ground. But in this case, you should take care of waterproofing.

Prices for insulation for sewer pipes

insulation for sewer pipes

Internal sewerage of a private house

With regard to the laying of sewage inside the house, there are several important recommendations should be given here.

Despite the fact that here you can make a lot of forks, use a lot of elbows and turns, the sewage system inside the house should be made as simple as possible. Firstly, this approach will help save money during construction, buying pipes, and secondly, this method will increase the efficiency of your sewer system.

The entire system should be built on the principle of the smoothest drainage of sewage water. If the system is being laid in a one-story house, the pipes are best placed under the floor. The same can be said when building a sewerage system in two or more storey cottages.

If your internal sewage system and the external one have a big difference in height, you can use elbows to connect the pipes. Remember to use a 30 degree elbow, which will ensure a smooth drainage, thanks to which you can avoid damage to pipes, blockages, etc.

Be sure to indicate that to ensure efficiency, sewer pipes must have a certain diameter:

• For a toilet, bath, or shower, it is best to use a pipe diameter of 10-11 cm;
• The same applies to the pool, if you decide to make one on your site;
• For a kitchen sink, or a washbasin, a 5 cm pipe diameter will be enough;
• The drain stand must be equal or even larger than other pipes, i.e. its diameter should be 10-11cm.

Do not forget that when installing the riser, you should take care that goes to the roof, it should be closed with a dome, the diameter of the riser is 2 times large.

Do not forget, in order to increase the efficiency of the pipe connection, they should be greased at the joints with special glue or sealant. In this case, the receiving pipe is lubricated from the inside, and the incoming pipe is lubricated from the outside.

External sewerage of a private house

As already mentioned, be sure to observe the angle of inclination of the pipes. This will allow for natural drainage, otherwise, the drain will be slow, which will lead to blockages, or fast - which will already negatively affect the condition of the pipes - they will need to be repaired or replaced.

Video - installation of external sewerage

As for the outlet of the pipe, if the foundation is tape - the pipe should be taken out from the side, or slab - the outlet should be carried out by a pipe running from the bottom up, using special 45-degree elbows and a section of a vertical pipe.

The pipe should be passed through the foundation through a special pipe-sleeve to avoid unnecessary pressure and the possibility of pushing through.

The pipe should be laid in a straight line, right up to the septic tank or cesspool. This is what will ensure maximum efficiency. It should be connected to the septic tank at the top of it, so that there is free space for waste.

Regardless of the depth, the gravity sewer should be 2 cm for each running meter.

If you are not sure about the depth of installation, you can ask your neighbors. Whether they have problems at the chosen depth, or the absence of them, will be able to tell you the right solution.

Video on laying cast iron pipes for external sewerage

In this video, you can find the features of the work on laying the external sewage system, the preparation of its insulation.

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Such a question as the sewerage system is acute for many families with private or country houses. The countryside is famous for the lack of running water, which, of course, cannot suit a person.

Sewerage in a private house with your own hands is by no means difficult, as it seems at first glance. Having some baggage of theoretical knowledge, you can save a lot of money by personally designing and installing it in your home without resorting to the services of a specialist.

Types of sewers

It is impossible to imagine a private house without a sewerage system. Its scheme requires the owner of the house to be consistent and careful during installation, obliging to take into account the individual characteristics of the structure.

In a house where there is a basement and pipes have already been laid, it is advisable to use an internal sewage system, but when building from scratch, an external system would be the best choice. The simplest option is to tie the plumbing to a single collector, from which pipes are drawn towards the drain pit.

The lack of a centralized sewerage system is especially typical for settlements and villages, and therefore it is necessary to decide in advance on the design of the waste disposal system.

Before deciding on the choice of one or another type of sewage system, it is necessary to solve some pressing issues, namely:

1. Accommodation type (seasonal or permanent).
2. The number of people using sewerage and water supply.
3. Features of the soil on the site, etc.

The sewerage system is:

1. Accumulation (cesspool, capacity for waste effluent).
2. A cleansing structure (a septic tank with all kinds of chambers).

Sewer schemes can be very complex in their design, but they are all similar to an ordinary apartment.

Planning features

Experts advise placing the kitchen and the bathroom as close to each other as possible, in order to conveniently remove the sewer pipes outside. With a two-story building layout, it is advisable to place them one above one, in order to facilitate the installation and maintenance of the sewage system. When creating an internal circuit, the number of connections, joints and junctions should be minimized in order to reduce the likelihood of leakage.

Stages of drawing up a diagram

The main criterion for a sewage system is the landscape of the site. The main advice is that the septic tank must be at the lowest point, provided the pipes are installed at an angle. It is necessary to determine the depth of pipe laying.

The sewerage system diagram is subdivided into:

1. Internal wiring, which includes piping and all plumbing fixtures.
2. Laying of external networks, which are understood as wells, external pipelines and cleaning structures.

A layman can design a scheme without involving a specialist, just paying attention to the main points. It should be repelled from the location of the main riser, after which it is necessary to make markings for the location of auxiliary pipes intended for drainage of wastewater.

For the correct execution of this work, a detailed building plan is drawn. According to the place of the riser passage, plumbing units are displayed, sewer pipes and branches are displayed in detail. Each new floor of the house is assigned its own stage, after which they are summed up and displayed on a single diagram.

Information for self-laying at depth

There is a fundamental difference between self-designing sewage systems today and those that were used by people a quarter of a century ago due to the emergence of modern and cost-effective ideas. The use of a septic tank is one of the main innovations in this area. Experts strongly recommend immersing the septic tank to a depth of at least one and a half meters, at a distance of about five, which is associated with preventing its destruction, as well as flooding and freezing.

Sewer networks are calculated according to the same parameters. In the interval between the septic tank and the house, it is advisable to minimize the number of knees and turns. It is advisable to lay waste pipes to a depth of no more than 75 cm. For the northern regions, these figures will slightly increase due to the high freezing depth.

additional information

The above information is the necessary base from which it is worth starting from when laying pipes on your own. But there are also no less important auxiliary points that should not be forgotten. These items include the following details:

1. When drawing up a diagram, be sure to take into account the optimal pipe diameter.
2. Observe the obligatory slope, which must be at least 0.03 m per 1 m³. This value can increase depending on the terrain of the site. Do not decrease the angle of inclination! Otherwise, there is a high likelihood of sewage blockages.

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of correctly calculating the required sewerage depth. If the basic rules are not followed, you may encounter such problems as:

• cooling or freezing of liquid in sewer pipes;
• the appearance of blockages and the subsequent "rupture" of the pipe;
• complete failure of the sewer system.

A large number of elbows and joints also play an important role in the appearance of blockages. In the event that the terrain does not allow avoiding the use of "turns", it is recommended to install a well, which will provide access to the potentially problematic area, thus saving money when troubleshooting.

One of the main factors in the long-term operational period of the sewer network is a well-executed insulation. In the summer, the sewage system is threatened only by groundwater, while in winter freezing, coupled with the wrong angle and shallow depth of the pipes, can play a cruel joke with the owner of the house.

The optimal material for insulation today is polyurethane foam, which is wrapped around the pipes, and then a layer of polyethylene film is added. Paying careful attention to the knees and turns when insulating, you can save yourself from many problems that may arise in the future.

More details:

1. Do not overload the riser with a huge number of branches and adapters. The principle “the simpler, the better” describes this work very accurately.
2. Route drainage pipes under the floor as much as possible.

Sewerage laying is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewage system, then in order to equip a completely autonomous drainage system, you need to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to a collection well. Installation of a sewage system for a private house is not a quick matter, however, if you do the work yourself, serious difficulties should not arise. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of an internal and external sewerage system and a collection well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.

Water supply and sewerage systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.

The procedure for laying the sewer network:

• Prepare a pipeline project, taking into account all devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of required building materials.
• Purchase pipes, fittings and fittings.
• Cut pipes into lengths in accordance with the project.
• Carry out internal wiring and lead the sewer pipe to the outside.
• Install the waste pipe.
• Install external sewerage system.
• Equip the collecting well and connect the pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

Indoor sewage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline is taken out. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start the assembly from this point.

If there is a project, the order of connection is not important, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

• Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for a riser and a toilet bowl - 11 cm, for showers, baths, kitchen sinks - 5 cm, for everything else, 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time , its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
• Since wastewater flows through pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per running meter is required.
• The pipe connection must be airtight and not impede the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, there must be no roughness or burrs at the junction.
• Right angles should be avoided, as these are where blockages are most common. It is better to use several knees with smaller angles to complete the turn.
• It is necessary to prevent back suction from the sewer and the penetration of unpleasant odors into the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the branch pipe of each plumbing fixture, which performs the function of a water seal.
• If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, you should equip a common riser.
• Toilets are installed closer to the riser than other household and plumbing fixtures.
• Nodes of the pipeline should not be performed in places where walls or ceilings pass.
• Holes for pipes passing through walls and ceilings are cut with a margin, it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
• The connection points to the riser and pipeline bends are equipped with a tee with an inspection window, closed with a plug. Through these windows, in the future, the pipes will be cleaned in case of clogging.
• The riser is located as close as possible to the place where the sewer is taken out.