Wood stain for wood colors bleached oak. Wood stain: what is it for - which colors to choose and water-based or acrylic? Composition. Wood stain: instructions for applying

We offer a wide range of colors for our products.
When choosing materials for a tree of the corresponding category, please indicate the colors you need from the presented catalog.

Select the material you need to go to the color catalog:

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1. Colors of soft wood waxes, hard wood waxes:

Primary colors soft waxes and hard waxes,to enlarge the photo click on the picture:

colors 01-11 colors 12-22 colors 29-45

colors 46-54 colors 55-66 colors 68-106

colors 107-114 colors 115-122 colors 123-133

colors 134-145 To enlarge the photo click on the picture.

Soft wood wax ready to use, with the help of wax you can easily and quickly eliminate any defects in furniture: scratches, cracks, chips. The soft wood wax works well with varnishes on a variety of substrates.
Hard wax for wood Ideal for eliminating defects on windows, doors, facades, countertops. The melting temperature of hard wax for wood is 95 degrees, so when working with it, you must use a gas soldering iron or an electric soldering iron. Hard wax for wood has good plasticity and adhesion and is compatible with all types of finishes.
Retouching marker designed to eliminate defects on wood, synthetic and laminated surfaces. The Holzmarker retouching marker is indispensable for correcting a grinding defect on the edges of furniture fronts.
Buy hard wax for wood, soft wax for wood, touch-up markers you can in the categoryMaterials for restoration in the Online Store

2. Colors of Holzmarker retouching markers and Ritocco Coprente enamel :

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3. Colors of nitro and water based putties for wood:

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Wood puttyit is used for sealing defects and leveling surfaces before painting. When choosing a putty for wood, you need to focus on the color of the stain, which is planned to be used in the future. Wood putty is recommended for both indoor and outdoor use. Buy putty for wood you can in the categoryPutty in the Online Store .

4. Colors of polyester putties for wood:

See photo of wood nitrofilter colors above.

Two-component polyester putty for wood made on the basis of polyester resins and mineral components with the addition of wood dust. Polyester wood putty is recommended for both indoor and outdoor use. Buypolyester putty for wood you can in the category Putty in the Online Store.

5. Colors of PROFIX retouching pencils with stain

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The pencil allows you to touch up wood surfaces, leaving the structure of the wood visible. Thanks to the comfortable head, the touch-up pencil is applicable even to the most difficult-to-reach areas. After drying, the surface is resistant to light and water. Buyretouching pencil for wood you can in the category Materials for restoration in the Online Store.

6. Colors of PROFIX PEN retouching pencils

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Retouching pencil PROFIX PENhas a thin rod, which allows you to accurately paint over scratches on a wooden product and accurately reproduce the wood pattern. The retouching pencil is ready to use and allows you to achieve very accurate tracing even in the most difficult to reach places.

7. Colors of concentrated wood stains HolzeFarbe:

Samples of Holzfarbe stain on oak veneer:

Samples of Holzfarbe stain on solid pine:

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Universal concentrated dye for painting wooden surfaces indoors. Emphasizes the natural texture of the wood. Buy wood stain you can in the category Wood stains in the Online Store.

8. Colors of stains for Tinte Pastello wood:

Water-based pastel wood stain. The colors can be mixed with each other to obtain the desired shades.

9. Colors of RITOCCO SEMICOPRENTE retouching ink for wood:

Retouching ink for wood surfaces can be applied after retouching the damaged area with a retouching pencil. The treated surfaces are not subject to weathering and retain their color over time.

10. Colors of beeswax for HolzWachs wood:

Beeswax for wood prevents cracks and scratches on any wood surfaces. The material contains natural beeswax, carnauba wood wax. Prevents the appearance of woodworms. You can buy beeswax for wood in the category Wax in the Online Store.

11. Colors of antique wood waxes ANTIKWACHS:

Antique wood wax creates a soft, shiny finish even on unpainted wood. It is made of mineral (mountain wax), animal (beeswax) and vegetable (carnauba wax) waxes.

12. Colors of decorative wax coating for wood surfaces HolzWachs Lasur:

Samples of Holzwachs Lasur wax coating on oak veneer:

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Samples of Holzwachs Lasur wax coating on solid pine:

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Finishing coating based on wax and natural resin. The material can be used as a protective and decorative layer for wooden surfaces without paintwork, and can also be applied to varnished surfaces for their restoration and renewal.

How to choose the material color you need?

1. Determine which material you need - for example, Profix touch-up pencil, Holzefarbe stain, beeswax, etc. Each type of material has its own color gamut.

2. Using the above list of materials at the beginning of the page - find a picture of flowers or natural photographs of flowers of materials.

We understand that printing and digital color rendition distorts the true color of the coating, which depends on many factors, including the type of wood, the quality of sanding, post-processing, etc.

Therefore, we offer the following additional color options:

- by the name of the color and its range.
For example, you know that you need the color of the nitro putty - dark walnut, so you are looking for this color in the color scheme below - number 63 and you are also looking for similar colors that may also suit you. Then find these colors in the pictures in the catalog or in the photographs.

- according to the desired color or shade... For example, you need a soft wax of reddish tones - according to the list below you can find out what colors you need (62 - mahogany, 36 - light mahogany, 124 - red-brown, etc.)

3. Select the most suitable colors and indicate them in the field Additionally - if you make an order through Online Store or dictate to the manager if you are going to place an order by phone.

Choosing a color by its name

If you know the name of your color, then find it in the table below and by the color number - find the color itself in the picture in the color catalog. (see the top of the page)

Standard material color names Borma wachs and their serial numbers:

number	color name	number	color name	number	color name
01	light natural oak	45	rustic oak 2	110	pearl white
02	natural oak	46	brown	111	beige
03	rustic oak 1	47	dark brown	112	brown-beige
05	pine	48	medium oak	113	sand
06	birch	50	white	114
07	red walnut	51	light oak	115
08	natural wood	52	dark oak	116
09	light teak	53	light walnut P10	117
10	larch	54	douglas	118
11	gold	55	light walnut P21	119	lemon yellow
12	gold ducat (bronze)	58	rosewood	120	yellow
13	dark elm	59	medium nut	121	yellow-green
14	old nut	60	the black	122	orange
15	silver	62	mahogany	123	coral red
16	cherry (pear)	63	dark walnut	124	red-brown
17	teak	64		125	fiery red
18	light elm	65	ash	126	pink
19	silver gold	66	dark cherry	127	violet
21	dark beech	68	dark pear	130	green mint
22	medium larch	100	light gray	131	pale green
29	light cherry	101	gray	132	green
30	cherry	102	gray stone	133	grayish green
33	dark mahogany (wenge)	103	gray cement	134	green grass
36	light mahogany	104	dusty gray	135	brown-green
40	maple	105	yellow-gray	136	green pine
41	natural beech	106	olive gray	137	dark green
42	beech	107	gray quartz	140	bright blue
43	rustic oak 3	108	beige gray	141	blue ocean
44	rustic oak 4	109	brown-gray	142	sky blue
				143	violet blue
				144	blue
				145	anthracite

Material color selection by color scheme

Roughly determine the color of the material you need and, by the colors found, find the most suitable one in the pictures in the color catalog. (see the top of the page)

White:
1. White - 50.
2. Pearl White - 110.

Light shades:
01 - light natural oak
02 - natural oak
05 - pine
06 - birch
08 - natural wood
65 - ash
113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118.

Light brown shades:
10 - larch
29 - light cherry
30 - cherry
42 - beech
54 - douglas

Greenish dark woody colors:
43, 44 - rustic oak
48 - medium oak
52 - dark oak

Reddish shades:
16 - cherry-pear
36 - light mahogany
62 - mahogany
66 - dark cherry
68 - dark pear
123, 124, 125 - red

Brown shades:
14 - old nut
46 - brown
53 - light walnut
55 - light walnut

Dark brown shades:
47 - dark brown
59 - medium nut
63 - dark walnut
07 - red walnut

Wenge, black:
33 - dark mahogany
58 - rosewood
60 - black

Before talking about how to choose the right stain, you need to at least know what it is all about. So, the stain is a tinting liquid, with the help of which the color of wood, plywood, furniture, chipboard, fiberboard, MDF is changed. Sometimes instead of the word "stain" one can hear the popular name "stain". Stains are divided according to the place of use into internal and external. Internal ones are used indoors, and external ones are used for facade work. A distinctive feature of outdoor stains is the presence of a special pigment that protects the composition from ultraviolet rays and, as a result, burnout. In fact, there are no other differences. website

In addition to indoor / outdoor classification, stains can be distinguished, differing in composition. So, stains can be alcohol, solvent, water-borne, nitro, wax or oil base. Some stains are applied with a brush and some with a spray gun. These are different compositions. Stains can be prepared at the factory, or they can be produced in the form of a powder, which, after contact with water, turns into a tinting liquid.

Before choosing a stain, you need to decide what exactly will be tinted. If, for example, you are going to process a dining table or a crib, then the composition must be safe, that is, it must contain a minimum amount of volatile compounds. It is best if they are not included at all. These stains include wax, oil and water-borne varieties. On top of these products, a layer of varnish can be applied, regardless of its composition. Also, you can use wax or oil with added wax. There is no layer conflict in this case.

Alcohol stains can similarly be produced in finished or powdered form. But this case has its own peculiarities. Alcohol stain is convenient for processing doors and furniture, but it is better not to use them for stairs and parquet. If the hand trembles, an unpleasant stain will form on the product to be painted. And you have to re-sand and re-apply. In general, when applying the stain, make sure no one is disturbing you. It is better to apply the alcohol composition with a spray gun (spray), which will help to guarantee a more or less acceptable result. We would recommend purchasing a ready-made composition. Powder stains should only be thinned with 96% alcohol. But it is not a fact that the alcohol that you purchase for these purposes will turn out to be exactly 96 percent. Therefore, eliminate the risk and purchase a ready-made alcohol stain.

But oil and wax stains can be used anywhere, and absolutely any tool can be used to apply them. These stains can cost more, but their convenience is undeniable. They are great for touch-up and restoration without leaving any signs of additional work. Another important feature is the absolute environmental safety of such compounds.

Rules for tinting wood with stain.

The natural color of a parquet board or wood floor is quite attractive in itself. But sometimes there is a need or a simple desire to create a new color solution for floor, furniture or parquet. This can be done with a special colored stain.

Staining should be preceded by wood preparation. First, the tree must not contain any covering. Optimal use of wood stain on a new board. If coating is present, remove it completely by sanding. Remember that even a new board will need to be sanded with 180-230 sandpaper before opening up any wood pores that remain open for half an hour. It is during these 30 minutes that you have to do the main work on using the stain. If you are late, the pores will close and the compound will not be able to penetrate deep enough into the tree. Sanding is carried out along the wood grain.

The stain can be either ready-made or water-borne. If you got the powder version, then the color solution must be done in strict accordance with the instructions. For wood stains, you need to mix hot water and powder, stir additionally after two minutes and use the stain on the surface. Before applying the stain, moisten the wooden surface with water using a napkin or sponge, and then sand again. Only then we take up the brush. By the way, it is better to take a round brush with Chinese bristles. Make sure that no lint comes out of it, otherwise hairs will remain on the surface.

So, we apply the stain with a brush. We do not regret the composition, we apply abundantly, along the fibers. The layer should be flat. If irregularities occur, spots may form. Fortunately, wood pre-treated with water will greatly facilitate your task in this direction. When the first layer of stain dries up (2-3 hours), you can apply the composition in a second layer, resulting in systematic mixing. The second coat can be applied in a different color for a unique effect.

The stain of these companies has an excellent composition, including the smallest pigments. This ensures that there are no stains when toning. The stain will easily go into all the fibers and channels of the wood, providing virtually natural aesthetics that does not contain a single gram of artificiality. The color tone will look extremely natural.

Wood tinting with rustic stain.

We would like to tell you about the rustic stain, which was developed taking into account the modern design features of the arrangement and processing of wooden floors. Stain or stain is useful when you want to create a rustic aesthetic for wood floors using the most common materials. Rustic aesthetics mean highlighting the natural wood structure, which is especially impressive when working on oak floors. The rustic stain allows you to add color tones to your wood floor.

Rustic stain is sold ready-to-use, so you can use it straight away. Sand the wood floor to open all the pores in the wood for 30 minutes. Shake the contents of the jar, open it and apply the stain with a natural bristle brush, making sure it does not "stick". The stain will pass through all wood channels and pores of the floorboard. Stain is a product of the highest quality, so you get great results. The composition will lie on the wood as evenly as possible, without leaving stains. In addition to direct tinting of wood with rustic stain, it is necessary to carry out finishing. Additional processing will help facilitate the further maintenance of the wooden floor.

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Stains or stains are called tinting compounds that are used to finish wood to give it a more expressive shade. Absorbing into the structure of the wood, the liquid stains the surface layer, preserving the natural texture and surface relief.

Staining allows you to simply and inexpensively give inexpressive wood species a more noble appearance. The opportunity to experiment with shades opens up ample opportunities when decorating projects.

The composition of the wood stains does not affect the basic characteristics of the material. A film does not form on the surface, resistance to decay, hardness and strength of wood remain unchanged (in the absence of special components in the composition). The techniques of applying stains are not difficult to master.

The base for wood stains can be water, alcohol, oil and other substances. Each type of finishing composition has its own characteristics, knowing that it is easy to choose the optimal type of finishing for a specific project.

Water stain and its specificity

Water stain is available as a ready-to-use liquid and as a powder that can be self-diluted to the desired concentration. Water-based stains have good adhesion, naturally accentuate the grain of the wood and come in a wide range of shades, from light tones to deep crimson colors. The absence of toxic odors makes such formulations indispensable for interior work.

When processing resinous wood, water stain can become stained due to uneven absorption into the structure of the material. In this case, it is recommended to subject the surface of the product to a degumming procedure.

Another disadvantage when working with water stains is the problem of raised pile. To eliminate this defect, the prepared surface is moistened with water and allowed to dry. Then the product is sanded with fine-grained paper and opened with a finishing compound.

After wood treatment with water stain, it takes 12-14 hours to completely dry it.

When are alcohol stains appropriate?

Alcohol stains are a category of finishing compounds based on aniline dyes diluted in alcohol. Like water stains, this product is available in powder and liquid form. A distinctive feature of the finish is the accelerated penetration of coloring pigments into the structure of the wood and fast drying.

The best method for applying alcohol stain is using a spray gun. Using a brush, roller and swabs when working with such formulations is ineffective due to rapid drying. The use of manual methods often results in streaks, uneven tone, stains and other defects.

Such compositions are optimal when finishing large surfaces. Similar in characteristics to them are nitromorilk - solvent-based stains.

Alcohol-based stains dry in 20-30 minutes.

Oil stains and their features

The finishing composition consists of dyes dissolved in oil, usually linseed. The stain is easily and evenly applied to the wood, both manually and with a spray gun. It does not form surface films, emphasizes the texture of the wood and provides air exchange.

A distinctive feature of the coloring pigments of such compositions is their resistance to UV radiation, due to which the painted surfaces do not fade in the sun, retaining the color saturation for years. White spirit is used to dilute oil formulations.

How much such a stain dries depends on the degree of its concentration and a number of other factors. On average, it takes 2 to 4 hours.

Wax and acrylic compounds

For all the main characteristics, such stains are similar to oil counterparts. A distinctive feature of wax and acrylic stains is their waterproof properties. The finish protects the wood surface well from water, but at the same time it is vulnerable to mechanical damage.

Wax and acrylic compounds are easily applied by hand, keep the same tone, do not leave streaks. They do not raise the pile and perfectly emphasize the natural texture of the wood. This type of finish is actively used in furniture restoration. Stains of this type are offered in a wide range of colors.

How much such a stain dries also depends on a complex of factors. On average, the process of complete drying of wax and acrylic stains takes 4-5 hours.

What tools are used to apply the stain?

Wood staining at home can be done with a brush, foam or cloth swab, paint roller, and spray gun. The choice of technique is primarily determined by the type of finishing composition.

Optimum ratio of materials and tools used:

alcohol and nitro-stains - spray gun;
water stains - tampons, roller, brushes with synthetic bristles;
oil and acrylic stains - wide brushes with natural bristles, lint-free swabs.

How to paint wood with wood stain: methods of applying the finishing composition

There are two generally accepted methods of wood staining:

Applying the composition in excess and then removing the excess with a swab.

The technique is relevant primarily for aqueous formulations. It allows you to even out color transitions, eliminate smudges and achieve lighter tones. The stain is applied in circular (swab) or longitudinal (roller, brush) movements, followed by wiping along the fibers. After the first layer has dried, the second is applied. The procedure is repeated until the desired color saturation is achieved.

Application of the composition in excess without further wiping off the excess.

This technique is more appropriate when using wax, oil and acrylic stains when the task is to achieve deep shades of wood. Partial wiping of excess is allowed after the main part of the composition is absorbed into the structure of the tree. This allows you to even out the tone and get rid of minor defects that may arise during the application of the composition.

to enhance adhesion, the stain can be slightly warmed up, this will improve the speed and depth of penetration of the composition into the wood structure;
it is not recommended to heavily soak a brush, swab or roller in the finishing compound. Controlled stain extraction minimizes the risk of smudges and blots.
the ends of the board are treated with stain more intensively than the main surface, because they absorb the composition more actively.

How to prepare the surface for finishing?

Speaking about the advantages of wood stain, one should not forget that it emphasizes not only the expressiveness of the texture of the wood, but also all the defects on its surface. Therefore, special attention is paid to the proper preparation of the product.

The wooden surface is sanded with medium and fine-grained paper. The old coating, if any, is completely removed.
The surface cleaned and leveled by grinding is degreased with a sponge dipped in white spirit.
Conifers undergo a de-resinification procedure, for this they are treated with a special compound.
When working with water stains on a wooden surface, first remove the raised pile (see point 2).
A color test is made on the prepared surface. A test color will allow you to understand how the composition interacts with a specific wood species and how many layers it will need to be applied to achieve the desired color.

Compliance with this algorithm will help to achieve a professional result when staining wood at home.

How to solve the spotting problem?

An uneven finish, with a stronger stain in some places and a weaker stain in others, is a common problem associated with some wood species. Mottling can occur when processing resinous woods, as well as rocks with an uneven density or plywood. In the first case, it is recommended to de-resin the surface, in the second - to pre-treat the wood with special conditioners, which will close the pores and ensure uniform absorption of the stain.

Painting wooden products with wood stain and varnish

To enhance the wear resistance and attractiveness of the surface of wooden products painted with stain, they are additionally opened with varnish. At this stage, many are faced with a problem when, when applying varnish, the stain starts to wash out, which ultimately irreparably spoils all the work done.

At the stage of finishing, it is important to remember:

water stains should be combined with non-aqueous varnishes;
alcohol stains - with non-alcoholic paints and varnishes.

Today, there is such a variety of impregnating agents for wood on sale that even a specialized specialist will not be able to unequivocally answer the question of what is their fundamental difference. If you read the instructions for the preparations, then the conclusion suggests itself that most of them protect the wood from literally "everything". So what is wood stain for? Is it only for toning it, as is commonly believed?

Wood toning while preserving its texture.
Reliable protection of the material when other means are ineffective or their use from an economic point of view is impractical. Argumentation - stains are characterized by a greater penetration depth, while they are cheaper than paints, varnishes and a number of other preparations used for processing wood (at least 2.5 times).
Imitation of another, more expensive breed.
Bleaching wood. This is often done either in the process of its restoration, or in preparation for painting (applying colored varnish).
Preservation of material from decay (antiseptic function) and destruction by wood-boring insects.
Combining shades, creating the effect of surface finishing with various woods.
Some stains strengthen its structure.
Giving (partial) moisture-repellent properties to sawn timber.
Any stain, regardless of its composition, will definitely increase the shelf life of the tree.

But is it that simple? Is it enough to buy any of the commercially available wood stains, and all the problems with reliable wood processing are solved? An exhaustive answer can be obtained if you are familiar with all types of liquids in this group. By the way, stains are often called differently - stains - and they are used not only to protect and prepare for the further use of natural wood, but also building materials based on it (plywood, MDF, fiberboard, OSV, chipboard).

Wood stain modifications

They are classified according to what they are based on. They are marketed in the form of ready-made liquids, gels or powders, but the properties of wood stains depend only on the components and their proportions.

Water stains

Such stains are distinguished by a wide variety of shades, so you can choose a composition for almost any type of wood and make it the required tint for the interior of a particular room.
"Environmental Safety". For those who care about the "purity" of the product, water stains are the best option. No harmful fumes, regardless of external factors. First of all, temperatures.
Given the basis, it is clear that it is not difficult to wash off such a stain with water. In some cases, this is true if, in the process of working with wood, it is necessary to slightly change the resulting shade.

Water stains are deep penetrating agents. This property also has a negative component. During processing, the tree is additionally saturated with liquid. What does this mean? First, it becomes more susceptible to moisture absorption. Secondly, shrinkage lasts longer, and often initiates twisting of the processed workpiece. Therefore, the use of wood stains of this group requires both experience and accuracy.
The need for subsequent application of a protective layer to the tree. For example, varnish, which is most often practiced.

Alcohol stains

The impregnation dries quickly. Someone considers this a disadvantage, but the usability is obvious. Especially when working outdoors when the weather is unstable and there is a chance of precipitation.
High-quality protection of wood from ultraviolet radiation and moisture.

Pungent specific smell. When organizing work in the room, it is necessary to ensure its effective ventilation. Will it be possible to do this in winter?
Fast absorption into the structure of the material. This somewhat complicates the processing of wood with alcohol stains, since due to the uneven application of the impregnation, there is a risk of stains appearing on the general background. Experts advise using a spray gun, since it is almost impossible to achieve a uniform shade of wood manually (with a brush) without proper experience.

Oil stains

Pros:

Do not fill the wood with moisture.
Easily change shade when adding colorants.
Stains of this group fall on the wood in a thin layer, evenly, so there are no difficulties in working with them.
Does not fade when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.
No additional protective coating (varnish, wax) is required on the wood.
Inert to changes in ambient temperature and humidity.

Certain toxicity.
Long drying time (depends on the conditions of use).

Wax and nitro stains (acrylic)

Their characteristics are very similar.

The thinnest protective film appears on wood after drying of such wood stains.
The uniformity of the shade is guaranteed over the entire treated area. The presence of spots, bald spots is excluded.
The structure of the tree stands out especially clearly.

The difficulty of working with these stains. Mainly due to the fast "setting" of the impregnation. Therefore, any further alterations are no longer possible.
One of the advantages of wood is lost - the ability to "breathe". The reason is the resulting film. Not all users note this, but nevertheless. How permeable it is is a big question.

Rustic stains

Quite new drugs. Their main purpose is to emphasize the structure of the material, to achieve several shades in one area. The use of such compositions requires high professionalism, so the author does not focus on them. Only to inform the reader, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to process the wood independently. If, of course, we mean a quality result.

What to consider when choosing a wood stain

Knowing the features of various modifications of these solutions, it is not difficult to understand. Therefore, the author only summarizes all of the above:

Application specificity - inside or outside the building; temperature, humidity; weather.
The structure (species) of the tree. The lower the density, the more deeply the stain penetrates. For example, the use of water-based formulations will significantly increase their consumption per m2. To what extent is this justified, expedient, and so on? There is one more nuance. After processing, the color of the wood will be slightly "lighter" than expected. This is due to the fact that a significant part of the stain will be absorbed, and together with the liquid and the dye.
The condition of the wood. Does the lumber have defects that need to be leveled, or, on the contrary, is it necessary to emphasize all its advantages? This should also be taken into account when choosing a stain by shade.
Personal experience and opportunities. With the first, it is clear - not everyone will be able to apply the required layer of stain with high quality, which dries quickly (absorbed). It depends on practical skills. More difficult with possibilities. As a rule, most “home craftsmen” work with a brush. It is recommended to use tampons for applying wax stains. Also - nothing special. But does everyone have not only a spray gun, but also a "source" of compressed air? Before choosing alcohol stains, you should think carefully.
General interior. This mainly applies to interior finishing work. As a rule, no one deals with the surface design of wooden parts of a building or individual structural elements, otherwise one of the advantages of lumber is lost - naturalness. Therefore, it is necessary to focus on the shade that the wood stain will give the tree, and how much it will emphasize its structure (or change).

If you plan to further treat the wood with polyurethane paint or varnish, which contains acid, then wax stain cannot be used as an impregnation.
When choosing a tool, you must purchase it with a certain margin. Practice shows that it will not be possible to accurately determine its consumption per m². Even a specialist will not say exactly how much wood stain is needed, especially when it comes to processing a large area (volume of lumber). And if you make a second purchase in the same store, and impregnation from the same manufacturer, then it is not a fact that the shade will be identical. From batch to batch of goods, it partially changes - these are the costs (features) of the technology.
Effective wood protection is achieved if the stain is applied in at least 2 coats. One-time processing of the required result does not give, therefore, such savings are absolutely pointless.

If wood stain in your concept is a kind of liquid that can give wood brown color or its shades, then we can say that you know nothing about this material. Modern stains can paint wood in almost any color. Moreover, they are an excellent antiseptic and can almost double the service life of wooden products. It is with such material that we will get acquainted, as they say, anew. In this article, together with the site, we will study the varieties of modern wood stains and deal with the properties, thereby fully revealing their capabilities.

Varieties of wood stains photo

Wood stain: varieties and their features

All modern liquid impregnations for wood, called "stain", according to the basis from which they are made, can be divided into three main groups - this is alcohol stain, water and oil. They should be studied in more detail.

Water-based stain. It is produced in two forms - in a ready-to-use state and in the form of a powder that dissolves in water. This is the most common type of wood treatment that can paint wood in almost any color, but in most cases, these are shades of wood, ranging from the lightest to dark mahogany. Water-based stains have one major drawback - they lift wood fibers. On the one hand, this is good, since the structure of the wood is emphasized, and on the other hand, not very much - the raised fibers make the wood more susceptible to moisture. There is only one way to deal with such a phenomenon - before applying the stain, the wooden product must be wetted superficially, held for some time, sanded and only then opened with the stain.
Alcohol stain is nothing more than a solution of aniline dye in denatured alcohol. As well as water-based stain, it is produced in two forms - ready-to-use and in powder form. The disadvantage of alcohol stain is its ability to dry quickly, resulting in stains. It is quite problematic to apply this type of stain manually - in order to obtain a uniform color of wood, it is sprayed from a hand or pneumatic spray gun.
Oil stain - it is she who allows you to give wood any shade of all colors known to man. This is achieved by mixing oil-soluble dyes. To dilute this type of wood stains, the White Spirit solvent is used. In operation, oil stain is the most unpretentious - it dries quickly, is applied evenly and does not raise fibers.

Wood stain photo

Since we are talking about the types of stain, it will not be superfluous to mention such a variety of this tinting material as acrylic and wax. These are new developments that took into account all the disadvantages of the above-described wood stains. They do not lift the fibers, paint the wood without stains - in addition, they form a protective film on the surface of the wood that protects the material from moisture. If you pour a little water on covered with these types of stain, then it will scatter droplets - this is an excellent sign that speaks of reliable protection of wood. But despite this, the film itself also needs protection, especially when it comes to flooring. Like other types of wood stains, wood treated with them must be varnished. By the way, it is acrylic and wax wood stains for wood that can have any colors - moreover, they perfectly emphasize the structure of the wood, which is why they are called rustic.

Wood bleach photo

Do-it-yourself staining: subtleties and nuances of the process

Approaching the issue of wood stain treatment, or rather the choice of a tool for applying it, it should be understood that several factors can influence it. Depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe treated surface and the type of stain used, its application can be carried out either with a brush or with a foam swab and even a spray bottle. In principle, there are no special contraindications in this regard. The only "but" is the so-called solvent-based nitromorilacs. They dry quickly and as a result, when using a brush or a tampon, stains are obtained - this type of stain is best applied from a spray gun, regardless of the volume of the treated surface.

As for all other types of stain, they can be applied using any tool - the choice depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe treated surface. You understand that a large volume of wood cannot be quickly covered with a brush or foam pad.

What else you need to know about the question of how to apply the stain is that in order to achieve the desired color of the wood, it must be covered in at least two layers, and each of these layers must be completely dry. The approach to finishing wood should be exactly the same. The stain must be completely dry before varnishing. Especially when it comes to its aqueous compositions.

Photo stain colors

Stain possibilities: multi-colored painting technique

Few people know that one and the same surface can be covered with stain of different colors - this technique is often used to emphasize the structure of wood or artificially age it. Take, for example, the newfangled colors "bleached oak" or "arctic oak" - this color and structure is achieved by using two types of stain. First, a so-called wood bleach (water-based white stain) is used, and after it dries, all pits and pores in the structure of the tree are filled with oily stain containing hard wax. Colored wax clogs into these pores, making them gray or black, depending on which oil color you choose. The most interesting thing is that the rest of the bleached surface remains unchanged in color, despite the fact that it is covered with a thin protective film of wax and oil.

How to stain photo

In this way, by combining the types of stains and their colors, you can achieve interesting effects. The main thing is to understand the basic principle of performing such work - first, the whole tree is covered with a stain, the so-called main background is laid, and only then the finishing touches are applied to it in the form of staining the wood structure with a different color. But not the other way around - a tree opened with wax oil is no longer able to absorb the stain. Also, do not forget about the protective varnish coating - you cannot do without it.

In conclusion, a few words about how to correctly make a color test and choose exactly the desired shade of wood. It's not a secret for anyone that the final color of the wood depends entirely on the number of layers of stain applied - you can only decide on it by making a color test. First you need to prepare a piece of board and grind it thoroughly. After that, the entire board is covered with one layer of stain. After it dries, only two thirds of the board is covered with a second layer. And only one third is covered with the next layer. When the last layer of stain is dry, the board is opened with varnish in two layers, allowing each of them to dry thoroughly. Only then can you choose the shade that suits you best.

Do-it-yourself wood staining photo

This is, in principle, everything you need to know about wood stain and how to work with it. Of course, each type of wood reacts in its own way to this type of impregnation - deciduous trees absorb any compositions well, but conifers, due to the large amount of resins, do not have very good absorbency. It is for this reason that the color test is very important and relevant. Without it, wood stain can create a lot of problems.