It is difficult to imagine a comfortable home without a bath.
There was a time when bathtubs were even made from wood, and then from marble, copper, cast iron, silver and gold.
A steel bathtub is considered the most durable and has its advantages:
- light weight (ease of transportation and installation);
- heats up quickly, since it has a metal base;
- cheaper than cast iron or acrylic;
- the enamel coating is durable.
The most serious disadvantages are:
- cannot keep warm for a long time;
- not stable enough;
- makes a lot of noise when filled with water.
Disadvantages can be easily eliminated by using polyurethane foam for this. It is enough to turn it upside down before installing the bathtub, moisten it with water and foam - it looks like a thermos.
After the foam dries, cut off the excess with a knife. To make the steel bathtub more stable, the legs can be supplemented with a brick pillow (or used in place of the legs).
Room preparation
It is better that the bath is installed on metal supports with adjustable tips and self-adhesive pads. This method is more reliable and safer when installing the bath.
In the corners of the bath, you can use timber supports by attaching them to the wall. Such a technique will strengthen the bath, it will become more stable in case of stress on the corners.
Before installing the bath, first clean the place of the intended installation:
- plumbing fixtures are removed;
- a siphon is disconnected from the sewage system (the hole is closed with a plastic cover);
- the old bathtub is removed (if its legs were cemented, then they are removed from the cement layer);
- the walls are aligned at right angles.
Installation steps
Bath installation includes several stages:
- the bath is turned upside down and supports are attached to it;
- when installing the bath, all operations must be performed carefully so as not to damage the enamel;
- when the bathtub is in place, it must be leveled by adjusting the legs;
- the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam;
- additional supports are installed (a bar of the required size is attached to the wall);
- with the help of fasteners, a plastic panel is installed that covers the bath.
Possible ways
You can install a steel bath on your own using two methods:
- installation on legs;
- installation using brickwork.
Installing a steel tub on legs it should be remembered that over time the supports may weaken and the life of the bath will be reduced. In this case, hooks are used (usually they are used when installing water heaters) and a brick pillow is laid under the bottom of the bath.
The bathtub is placed on legs and level. The outline of the bath is marked on the walls and the bath is removed.
In the marked places, holes are drilled into which the hooks are twisted (directed to the side or downward).
The bath returns to its place, is again leveled and the hooks are twisted - the bath is pressed against the walls.
When using a brick pillow a number of bricks are laid under the bottom of the bath (you can fasten them together with foam, and so that the foam does not "lift" the bath up, it is better to fill it with water).
When installing a bathtub using masonry, you need skills in working with such masonry. Pillars are laid out of bricks on which the bathtub will lean. A brick pillow is also required under the bottom of the tub.
The main difficulty that people who install a steel bathtub can face on their own: the pillow and posts should be at a certain height from the floor. For this, the posts, if they are low, can be plastered with a solution.
Required tools and materials
To install a steel bath yourself, you will need tools:
- a rule (a rigid bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bath) is required to level the bath;
- fork wrench (to tighten the release parts);
- rubber hammer (for shrinking the legs when assembling the bath);
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- spanners;
- building level;
- polyurethane foam;
- sealant;
- siphon;
- fasteners.
Step-by-step instruction
After the place has been prepared for installing the steel bath, you need to perform the following steps:
How to avoid installation errors?
There are rules to be aware of when installing a steel bathtub with your own hands:
- only the upper edge is set according to the level, since the design provides for an inclination towards the drain;
- do not use the corrugation when connecting the siphon to the sewer;
- do not overtighten the screws that attach the legs to the bathtub (tighten them only by hand, otherwise the enamel may chip off);
- do not use rubber pads for the legs or the bottom of the bath (the bath can spring on them and a crack forms between the wall and the bath);
- for a steel bath, grounding is required;
- usually the bath needs to be raised higher than the factory adjusting screws allow. It is impossible to use stands made of rubber or wood for these purposes (the former will spring, the latter will dry out);
- leave access to the tub piping (to clean the siphon).
Watch a video on how to install a bathtub with your own hands and what you need to consider:
Enamelled steel bathtubs have not lost their relevance even with the arrival of comfortable acrylic models on the market. Inexpensive, relatively light types of plumbing, with a careful attitude, serve for 20 or more years. However, they have features that you need to know for proper installation and connection. Do you agree?
If you plan to install a steel bath with your own hands, then you need to clearly know the technological rules for working with metal containers and master the subtleties of the connection. We will tell you how they are made, what activities need to be carried out when preparing the premises for the upcoming work. Here are some common mistakes.
Initially, you need to choose a model that is suitable in size and shape. If the bathroom is spacious, then there are no special configuration requirements, but for rooms with limited area, it is better to focus on compact or angular products.
Plumbing stores offer a range of plumbing fixtures of standard dimensions from 1 m to 2 m in length and from 0.7 m to 1 m in width.
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Old-style cast iron bathtubs are quite difficult to move. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are rather unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble during use or budge at the slightest shock, spoiling the wall and floor finish. Let's talk about how to fix the bathtub - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.
The stability of the bath depends not only on the procedure for its installation, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing. In order for the bathtub to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls at the installation site, minus 2.5-3 centimeters on each side. Under these conditions, it will be easier to secure the bowl to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case, there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably enter during use.
Features of the device of steel baths
Of all the types of bathtubs, steel models are the most difficult to install fixedly. This is due to two features of their design:
- low weight of the bowl;
- lack of mounts for the legs.
On cast iron and acrylic models, special fasteners are usually located on the outside of the bowl, to which the legs can be securely screwed. The steel bath manufacturers have dropped these parts. Since steel is a rather soft material, there is a high risk that when using the bath, under the weight of the water collected in it, plus the body immersed in it, it may bend. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.
Feet for steel plumbing are usually a kind of trestle or support. It is assumed that the bathtub simply rests on them. Some models of legs can be supplemented with an adhesive layer for a more secure fit with the bottom of the bowl. But that doesn't improve the situation too much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.
How to fix a steel tub so it doesn't wobble
There are several ways to mount a steel bath in a stable position. Most often it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not for everyone. Firstly, the implementation of brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Not every homeowner will be able to build a reliable stand with his own hands. And in this case, rather high requirements are imposed on the quality of the masonry, since moisture and serious weight will constantly affect it.
Secondly, in many houses, especially those related to the old foundation, the interfloor floors may simply not withstand the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can turn into a communal accident for you and your neighbors below. Plus, not everyone wants to wait several days until the masonry mortar dries up and acquires the strength necessary for installing plumbing fixtures. Therefore, it is better to use simpler options for fixing the bath.
Advice: if you still want to install a steel bathtub on a stand, do it not from brick, but from aerated block. This material weighs much less and is more convenient to mount.
The simplest and most reliable methods for installing a steel bath include:
- fastening to walls on metal corners;
- installation on a frame made of a metal profile;
- use of special fasteners.
How does the installation of a bath begin?
Whichever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - the installation of the bath begins with a fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on the legs, its position is leveled and connected to the water supply and sewerage system. After that, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of the water drain. As you know, the bathtub should be at a slight angle: only in this case, the drain will work correctly.
Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. In the future, you will use these marks to install fasteners for the bathtub: steel or acrylic. After applying the marks, disconnect the plumbing device from communications and take it out of the room.
Important! The final installation of the steel bath, regardless of the methods of its fixing, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely tiled or other material.
Installation of a steel bowl on corners
A fairly reliable option for attaching the bath is in addition to the legs, support it with the sides on wide corners of metal bolted to the walls. This method will suit you if the walls of the room are made of a sufficiently strong material and leveled with plaster or tile glue. It is better not to attach the bath to drywall structures: they will not withstand such a weight.
Important! The installation of the corners should be done after the finishing of the walls of the room has been completed.
You can hang the corners only on two walls, which will then abut the short edges of the bowl, or on all three vertical surfaces with which it will be in contact. In order not to damage the finish, first use a special drill to make holes for fasteners in the tile. After that, through them, you can drill directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill with a victorious soldering or a perforator.
The place of attachment of the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bath will rest on them with bumpers, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.
Installing the bath on the frame
If you plan to cover the space under the bowl, the best way to reinforce the steel tub so it doesn't wobble is to place it on a metal frame. The structure is made of UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor with dowels as a base for the frame. The upper frame and supports for it are assembled from the second. It is also possible to make a welded support structure from:
- metal corner;
- steel pipes of a suitable diameter.
Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, and the bath itself stands firmly on its legs.
Corner posts from the profile are fastened to the upper and lower frames, and also, for greater reliability, attached to the walls of the room. The frame should be erected after finishing the walls, or at least after tiling that part of them that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of the installation, the frame can be sheathed with plastic panels or drywall, which is then tiled.
Important! When trimming, do not forget to leave an inspection hatch for access to the communications located under the bathroom.
Using special fasteners
If the bath bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can limit yourself to fixing it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing the walls. In the future, the fasteners are hidden under, which contributes not only to an increase in the aesthetics of the room, but also to an increase in the reliability of the fastening.
It is impossible to imagine a modern bathroom that is not equipped with such a plumbing item as a bathtub. As a rule, its installation and fixation is carried out by builders, but over time, plumbing can fail, undergo deformation, or simply lose its attractiveness. In this regard, it is often necessary to independently mount the bathtub, instead of an old, out-of-order product. This article will help you figure out how to attach your bathtub to the wall and floor.
Often, the owners are worried about the problem of how to fix the bathtub to the floor. It must be said that for this it is necessary to carefully choose the fasteners when purchasing the product. The different materials from which the tanks are made require specific fixing elements. The greatest demand is for acrylic and steel plumbing, as well as cast iron. Fasteners must be purchased according to the material from which the product is made.
Reliably fixed bathtub guarantees further ease of use
Plumbing fixtures cast iron They are characterized by increased strength and service life, but at the same time they have a very high mass. Installation of such containers should be done only to a high-strength surface. You are unlikely to encounter a similar problem when purchasing a new bathtub, since most manufacturers abandoned the production of cast iron sanitary ware back in the late 80s of the last century.
Steel containers, as a rule, are fixed to a special base, which is laid out in advance from white or red brick. This material will allow you to firmly and accurately fix the plumbing fixture. Fastening the steel bathtub to the wall and floor is usually done using specific brackets.
Products are in the greatest demand today acrylic with all the necessary properties. In such a bath, the possibility of slipping is excluded, in addition, acrylic has the ability to retain heat well. The industry produces containers made of acrylic of various shapes and sizes, so it is possible to choose a high-quality appliance that is optimal for your bathroom.
The set with an acrylic bathtub comes with a steel frame that performs a load-bearing function
But there is a nuance, since acrylic itself is an elastic material, such baths are not characterized by high reliability. When exposed to a load exceeding the calculated one, the product may become unusable, therefore it is necessary to mount the container on a special metal frame. These systems are often included with the product. This will make the structure capital and will significantly increase its reliability.
Features of installing a bath
When installing this plumbing fixture, you need to follow some recommendations. First of all, water drain pipes are connected to the bath, and this can be done only by putting the device on its side. It is necessary to fix the product to the base, floor, and walls only after connecting it to the sewer. The gaps left during the installation process between the wall and the bath rim should be hermetically sealed using special waterproof compounds. In addition, a special decorative strip must be installed. Mounting the screen will significantly increase the overall aesthetics of the room.
When securing the bath, do not forget to seal the seams.
Cast iron bathtubs are usually installed on sturdy steel legs. They are securely fixed to the base of the plumbing fixture using tie bolts or special steel wedges. You can also mount the bathtub to the wall. However, since the cast-iron container has an impressive mass, you can completely do without it.
In order not to damage the floor covering, a metal gasket should be laid under each leg. As already mentioned, a bathtub made of such a material has an impressive weight, and the legs can damage the floor covering.
The steel bathtub wall mount is a set of brackets supplied with the fixture. It is quite simple to fix the container. However, it must be said that this should be done immediately on all planes adjacent to the bath. Installation must be done before the tiles are laid on the walls, if you planned to leave the partition behind the container without cladding.
Let's consider how the acrylic bathtub is attached to the wall. The easiest way to do this is by fixing a metal frame to the partition, which serves as a support for the container.
Some models of acrylic bathtubs are fixed to the wall with special clips.
There is another method, how to fix the acrylic bathtub to the wall. This is done using special latches, which are usually supplied by the manufacturer with the product.
As a rule, acrylic plumbing is equipped with a decorative casing, but in some models it is not provided. In this case, it can be built independently from a plasterboard structure and revetted with the same material as the walls of the bathroom.
Also, a steel or cast iron container can be equipped with a similar panel. As a basis, it would be advisable to use a galvanized profile sheathed with plasterboard, which can subsequently be tiled.
The order of performing these works should be as follows. First of all, it is necessary to measure the height from the floor to the sides, the length and width of the container, and the distance between the bathroom and the wall, if necessary. Further, in accordance with the measurement, the profile is cut and a strong frame is assembled. The resulting structure is fixed to the wall. Plumbing fittings are connected to the bath, which is connected to the sewage system.
Treatment of the outer sides of the steel bath with foam will increase the heat capacity and sound insulation of the product
After these steps, the bathtub is put into place and leveled using the adjustable feet. At the final stage of work, the joints are closed with masking tape, the outer side of the bathtub is filled with polyurethane foam and sealed with a layer of waterproofing.
Bath installation stages
It is possible to firmly fix the plumbing fixture on your own, subject to the technology and the correct sequence of work stages.
For a bathtub made of any material, the best option would be to erect a capital platform, where the product will be fixed. This design serves to support the bottom of the plumbing fixture, and the legs on which the bathtub stands should rest on the floor. Therefore, the dimensions of the base must clearly correspond to the dimensions of the container.
As a rule, the podium is laid out of bricks. The laying should be done very well, since the plane on which the bathtub will be placed must be ideal. When the base is ready, place the bath on it, and then adjust the height of the legs. As a result, a strong and reliable design is obtained, which will not allow the bottom of the product to deform or break even under the influence of a significant mass.
Laying bricks under the bathtub will increase its strength
Now let's talk about how to fix the bathtub to the wall. It's pretty straightforward. The sequence of work should be as follows.
First, the height of the device is measured to the lower edge of the side. The markings are applied to the wall, taking into account that the sides of the bathroom should lie on the profile, and the legs should firmly rest on the floor. A bath should be attached to check that the measurement is correct. The profile should be fastened 3 mm below the markings, since a shock-absorbing pad must be placed under the sides.
Fastening a reinforcing profile for a drywall screen
Further, the bathtub is installed on the frame, the drain fittings are connected and connected to the sewage system. The product is leveled using adjustable legs, the sides and walls are covered with masking tape, the gaps are filled with polyurethane foam and a waterproofing layer is laid.
Metal profiles must be made 5–7 cm shorter than the sides, as they will interfere with installation and further work.It is necessary to put the bath on its side in order to connect the overflow pipe. A special floor siphon is connected to it.
The next step is to consider how to fix the bathtub on legs. They must be mounted on the product body, which is not particularly difficult. Next, you should correctly install the plumbing fixture on the frame and connect the drain fittings to the sewer. The bathtub must fit snugly against the walls, and the joints must be carefully treated with silicone sealant. Experts recommend installing the legs on special pads that you can make yourself from metal or wood. Sometimes for these purposes, you can even use the waste of floor tiles. All gaps should be properly sealed and covered with decorative strips.
At the end of the installation of the product, you need to check how normal the system is. If you follow the algorithm for carrying out the work, the bath will be firmly fixed, and the risk that the plumbing fixture will move or be deformed will be minimized.
When arranging the screen, do not forget to leave the inspection hatch for access to communications
In theory, anyone, even an unskilled person, is able to understand how the bath is fixed, but, as practice shows, this requires certain skills. The best option would be to seek the help of professional craftsmen. Thus, it will be possible to avoid design and technological errors, as well as save time and money. In any case, it is better when the work is carried out by qualified specialists,however, with some experience, you can do it on your own.
Self-arrangement of a bathroom is more difficult than repairs in other rooms of apartments and houses with all conveniences. The main difficulties are caused by the laying of pipes in a closed circuit, the installation of a steel bath and other containers for personal hygiene. Bathroom and toilet are the most visited rooms in the apartment, and by their interior furnishings guests judge the cleanliness and real prosperity of the family. It is important to learn how to install the tank for taking water treatments without leaks, and the fastening of the steel bath must be reliable and stable.
What is important to know about installing a steel bath?
The bathroom is the place where the working day begins with a visit in the morning, where everyone takes turns putting themselves in order. Taking a bath in the evening upon returning home is not only a hygienic need, but also a place where you want to relax and tune in to your home rhythm of life. Someone refuses large containers in favor of a shower tray, but it is better to "relax" in a bathroom filled with aromatic foam. This is especially loved by women who simultaneously perform a number of face and body treatments. For general convenience, a comfortable steel bathtub and a cozy indoor ambience are needed.
The old bathtub, reddened from time to time, does not look against the background of new tiles or other cladding. It's not such a value to leave it after a major overhaul, and then spend a lot on grueling whitening and cleaning. It is much easier to buy a new tank and start installing a steel bath with your own hands. But it has its own characteristics, which is important to know for simple installation and effective use.
Any DIYer knows that buying new containers for personal hygiene is a very costly business today, and the service fee for an installer is often half the price, or even more. Therefore, it makes sense to start installing the steel bath yourself.
The modern building materials market offers bathrooms from different materials:
- steel;
- cast iron;
- acrylic;
- polymer concrete (artificial marble);
- wooden (made of durable wood);
- stone (carved from a solid block);
- porcelain;
- ceramic;
- fiberglass;
- composite (steel plus acrylic, acrylic plus quartz powder, fiberglass).
A steel bath is one of the most affordable containers. But it has some disadvantages that are eliminated during installation. There are options for installing a steel bath:
- on a special frame or frame;
- on finished metal legs;
- on brick supports or podium;
- on welded corners.
Attention: A full thin-walled steel container with a mass of water up to the brim may deform slightly, therefore it is not superfluous to make additional reinforcement - for an even load.
Features of the steel tank for installation in the bathroom
Steel fonts are available in different shades, shapes and sizes. The most popular example is an oblong rectangular tub, which is produced by stamping molding methods. This design comes with a set of stable, secure feet. The inner surface, as a rule, is covered with a layer of smooth enamel for easy maintenance of the container.
The market also offers corner options with a curved outer edge, but these tubs are more expensive due to the more complex molding. They require a frame structure or are mounted on a special pallet with a large number of supports. And installing a steel bathtub on a frame is a new expense, for example, for a brick plinth with mosaic tiles.
Modern steel bathtubs are available with interior color options. Elite imported models do not visually differ from expensive products, but are much cheaper than luxury products. Their shape is extruded from a sheet of metal under high pressure and high temperature. Then a facing polymer layer, enamel is applied or combined with an acrylic container of the same shape.
Tip: When buying, carefully inspect the purchased product - the enamel should be smooth, without sagging and edges at the junction of the base and coating. Ask for a certificate from the manufacturer and a warranty card. The thickness of the bath affects its susceptibility to deformation and overall service life. The thicker, the more expensive, and the cheapest bathtubs are used for temporary use - the enamel in them gradually cracks.
Attention: With a smaller distance between the walls of the bathroom than the dimensions of a steel bathtub up to 3-4 cm, it is quite easy to install it, but it is important to properly close the slots for sealing. If the edges of the tank are 2-3 cm wider, then recesses are cut on opposite walls to start its sides. Wall defect can be easily eliminated by tiling, but sealing is not required.
A steel bath differs from cast iron products in its low weight, so the installation of a steel bath can be done independently, without the help of assistants. A steel bath is stronger, and under strong mechanical stress, it deforms, and cast iron will crack.
Advantages and disadvantages of a steel bath, ways to eliminate them
An inexpensive steel container has a lot of advantages and small disadvantages, there are few of them, and they are eliminated during installation. Main pluses:
- light weight;
- easy transportation;
- self-assembly is available;
- fast warming up when filling before taking water procedures;
- low cost with a decent design;
- dense smooth enamel does not peel off, it is easy to wash and clean, does not form a persistent calcium deposit, retains a "new" shine and whiteness for many years with reasonable use;
- due to the ductility of steel, variations in container shapes provide the largest selection on the market;
- possibility of installation in several ways.
The main cons:
- a thin-walled bath is susceptible to cracking of the enamel layer under heavy load or careless handling;
- high heat transfer (the bathroom cools down quickly), thermal insulation of the outer layer is required;
- shorter service life than cast iron or stone;
- noisy filling with water;
- thin-walled containers can deform due to inept installation on steel bath legs and excessive filling.
Tip: To prevent the bath from "humming" when filling, not to cool down quickly, cover it with foam outside. This will not be visible when the catwalk is trimmed. When drawing water, use the mixer attachments with a rubber hose for silent filling.
Features of installing a steel tank in several ways
The installation method depends on the type of mounting hardware. The most common way is to mount on paired self-adhesive supports. The fastening for a steel bath in the form of an arc-shaped channel is questionable for some buyers. But if you follow the accompanying instructions, and the bathtub will rest against the wall with 2 ends, then such a fastening is quite reliable.
Calculations and measurements are made based on the future location of the steel tank. The bathtub cannot be wider than the place where it should stand. Ideally, the dimensions of the tank coincide with the place where the product is placed, resting against the walls on three sides. Such fastening is the most effective and does not depend on the type of fastener.
The most even distribution of the load is when fastened along the entire perimeter to the frame or frame. It seems to sag, and so that when it is filled with water to the top, it does not deform, supports from below are also needed. In any case, the screws are additionally adjusted from the bottom if it is planned to install a steel bath on the legs. Each leg is individually adjusted in height and fixed to the floor.
When fixing to the wall is planned, specialists must level the floors in the room and make the markings on the walls strictly horizontally. This guarantees the absence of distortions and redistribution of the load at maximum filling. If a steel bath is installed on the corners for the frame, then at the junction it is sawn with a hacksaw for metal at 45 °. After preliminary fitting, welding will be required, and the resulting frame is fixed with brackets to the wall.
Attention: The more support zones, the more reliable the installation of the steel bath. If the container does not have legs, it is important to take into account the height of the supports when marking, so that there is a gap between the bathtub and the floor under it.
Insulation, soundproofing and sealing of a steel bath
Elimination of the shortcomings of the steel tank is carried out along the way with its installation. Noise insulation of the tank is made when processing with polyurethane foam or porous insulation, which is applied by spraying.
To produce a quality finish, the steel tub is turned over and laid on the floor. A noise-absorbing fiber is glued on the previously degreased surface. In this case, it is important to carefully process the ends and securely fix with any sealant.
As mentioned in the section on disadvantages, a steel bath heats up quickly, which is good, but it cools down just as quickly, giving off heat. For this reason, they are trying to make high-quality thermal insulation or insulation of a steel bath. The same polyurethane foam will help to cope with this task. The foam is released in small portions from the can and the back of the font is evenly treated.
It is best to cover the surface with foam with polyethylene, smoothing and leveling the foam. When the foam has completed the expansion and hardening process, the bath is turned over and the installation is completed.
In production conditions, Vibroizol, which is well known to motorists, is used for noise and heat insulation. Good results are also obtained by treatment with sealants such as bituminous resin, which is used for general waterproofing in the bathroom.
A sealant is also needed to seal the gap between the bathtub and the wall. And there are many ways to prevent water from entering outside the container along the walls. Use:
- construction silicone;
- polyurethane foam;
- duct tape for the bath;
- plastic skirting boards;
- special ceramic overlays in the form of skirting boards, etc.
Attention: If the foam has not yet dried, and the gap between the bathtub and the floor is minimal, then the expanding substance is capable of pushing out the container, disrupting the accuracy of installation. To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to make the light steel bathtub heavier by filling it to the brim with water. But this can be done only after installing the siphon and connecting to the sewer.
Siphon selection and installation method
A bath of any type is installed in such a place where the closest exit to the sewer and connection to the water supply. The assembly of all components of the siphon is carried out in accordance with the instructions that are attached to any product. A detailed description and a diagram shows all the stages of the assembly. No matter how reliable the connection is, it is recommended to seal the seam with silicone or other sealant.
Attention: Any bathing container must have not only an opening for draining through a siphon, but also a hose for draining water through the overflow funnel. A regular washbasin siphon is not suitable, only with a tee.
Semi-automatic siphons are now on sale for draining a full bath without having to find a gag. One turn of the washer and the water is drained. This is convenient for large containers, although this siphon is more expensive. The most practical are siphons with a bolted metal outlet, which are easier to install than plastic ones. Metal fasteners are coated on the outside with grease so as not to rust.
Fixing the bathtub to brick supports
Experts recommend installing a steel bath on bricks - the easiest and most reliable method. If the container rests on a solid support, like a podium, then this is the most stable position. But most often only the lower brick supports are used, and the bathtub is attached to the wall with brackets.
If you do the installation according to all the rules, the bathtub will be motionless, and this is not only comfortable when landing in the hot tub, but also guarantees the longest service life. An ordinary red brick is suitable, from which two lower supports or a podium-type perimeter are constructed.
It is very convenient to make 2-3 wide steps out of bricks with handrails, along which it is easier to climb into and out of the bath. When properly tiled, it looks very expensive, like a plunge pool in luxury hotels. A corner steel bathtub with a rounded edge is best suited for this purpose, and it is better to choose a mosaic cladding.
The supports are formed from 2-3 rows of red bricks so that they recede from the edges of the container from the bottom by 15-20 cm. From the brick, they form something like a recess under the bottom, so that its supports, as it were, cover a little from the sides on a half-brick. It is laid using an ordinary cement mixture with sand, after which the cement should harden within 2 days.
When installed on the lower brick supports, the niche under the bathroom in front is closed with a shield and lined with tiles or other facing moisture-resistant material. For example, bath steel installation, video: