Find a crack in the cast iron sewer pipe. How to repair cracks and holes in a cast iron sewer pipe. Methods for eliminating leaks in the pipe body

Pipes, especially metal - "living" in old houses, often "naughty" - give a leak. As you can imagine, this is a kind of signal that the time has come to change communications. They usually try to combine such a step with repairs, and this is logical. But what to do when repairs for financial or some other reasons are not included in your immediate plans? Naturally, try to correct the situation, at least temporarily - before the start of repairs or the arrival of a plumber, so that the house does not remain dehydrated. You may be surprised, but you can also do it yourself to eliminate pipe leaks under pressure. Do you want to know how ?!

Broken threaded connection

So, how to seal a leak in a pipe under pressure at the points of attachment of system elements?

The easiest way, often by the way, helps: simply tighten the fitting using a special wrench.

Failure of pipes knocks us out of the usual rhythm of life

Didn't help, can you see the water is still flowing from under the connection? This means that there is little pull-up, the tow has worn out. What to do under such circumstances? Conversely, unscrew the fitting halfway. Remove the old tow, clean the threads, wind a new one. Just act with lightning speed, as the pressure in the pipes can provoke a break in the connection, and, therefore, a flood.

It happens that neither tightening nor changing the tow can save the fitting. This happens if the thread of the part is damaged. Then you cannot do without an "operation" - you need to cut out the squeegee and mount a new one. It is better to entrust this matter to a specialized service, and while she is driving, wrap the place of leak with raw rubber, tightly tightening the "bandage". If you feel confident in the role of a plumber, then change it yourself, just do not forget to turn off the water or ask the housing office to do it.

It is worth paying attention! Leakage at the threaded connection can be prevented if abundantly (in several layers) paint over the places of transitions and squeezes.

Failure of the fitting most often leads to leakage.

Pipe repair

And now we will consider how to eliminate a leak in a pipe with water, and before that - the reasons for such a disaster. Most often, a crack / breakdown in engineering networks is facilitated by the abundant accumulation of condensate on the pipes, as well as the current wandering through the structures. All this happens due to improper care of communications. But if an oversight led to a breakdown, then, by and large, the reason no longer matters - it needs to be repaired, right?

Ready to roll up your sleeves? Then let's get started!

Clamps

The easiest and most reliable way to restore the working capacity of the water supply system is to use a special clamp, which is sold in abundance in construction markets and in plumbing stores. Naturally, it is worth purchasing them in advance, and, moreover, the stock should be from clamps of different sizes in order to patch up any pipe in the house. They're cheap, so you definitely won't go bankrupt buying emergency plumbing supplies.

The clamp is a rubberized strip with a twin rod consisting of a pair of screws. For self-repair - it's better not to think of it, and professionals often use this "magic wand" - to "revive" even the oldest pipes, at least until they are completely replaced.

No stocks, but full of different building materials? Make the clamp yourself. Cut a strip out of the thick metal and a strip out of the rubber. Arm yourself "washers, nuts, bolts and" treat "the pipe with your own hands.

It is worth paying attention! The clamp is suitable for stopping leaks due to damage not exceeding 30% of the pipe circumference.

It looks like a "wound" on the pipe after putting on the clamp

Self-tapping screws

Homeowner's Assistant # 1 - Self-tapping screw, also useful for flood protection. But only if the crack size does not exceed 4 mm.

So how to fix a leak in a pipe under pressure using a self-tapping screw? Find a zinc-plated, unused screw and a press washer for it (ideal is an aviation part with a rubber gasket). Screw the self-tapping screw into the pipe and forget about damage for a while (up to 3 years).

Cement

If the hole is small - the water does not gush with a fountain, then you can try to cement the pipe. In addition to cement, you will also need a bandage (the usual one is medical).

If possible, the water should be shut off, otherwise the solution may not solidify. Dissolve cement and water in a bowl, mix the mixture carefully. Cut the bandage into pieces of about 25 cm each (be guided so that there is enough material to wrap the pipe twice). Saturate the pieces with the cement mixture and wrap them one by one around the pipe. Cover the "bandage" on top with plenty of the remaining solution. Leave the "cocoon" alone for a day, letting it dry thoroughly. The patch can even be painted on top. For a while, the design will help you avoid major network repairs.

Emergency adhesive

Manufacturers offer a ready-made composition, or rather, components that need to be mixed to make pipe glue. In construction parlance, the mixture is called an emergency metal polymer. The kit includes metal dust mixed with resin and a hardener. Before repairing the pipe, you just need to mix them thoroughly, and the glue is ready.

A couple of tablespoons of glue, and the leak is eliminated

Fixing the plastic pipe

Such networks rarely leak, if this happens, then, as a rule, the fitting is the culprit. Sometimes it is enough to tighten it, moreover, this can be done without turning off the water - directly under pressure. However, do not overtighten the part, otherwise the plastic will burst, and you will be guaranteed trouble.

If, nevertheless, the pipe burst, then you will have to sweat thoroughly, however, in this case, you can do everything with your own hands, however, you will have to run around and look for tools and equipment.

So, you have to replace a piece of a plastic structure that has leaked. If the pipes are polypropylene, then classic soldering will be enough, which can be done using a polyfuse (a special model of a soldering iron). Is your network made of reinforced plastic? Then you will have to make inserts on the thread. However, sometimes - with a little damage, sometimes it is enough to wind it with insulating tape (just choose a fresh one so that the material stretches and does not break) or processing with a special glue (polyurethane, epoxy, thermal compound).

It is worth paying attention! Couldn't find a soldering iron? Use the so-called "artisanal welding". The technology involves sealing the crack with the material of the pipeline itself. To do this, a hot nail should be applied to the hole (with proper dexterity, you can warm up the leak with an ordinary lighter). The material will become malleable, so it will not be difficult to close the hole.

Plain duct tape can save your home from flooding

Elimination of leaks in the heating system

The heating network has its own differences: there is always hot water in the pipes, therefore, cracks should be repaired using a special technology. For work, imagine, you only need a bandage and salt (ordinary - table salt).

So, a hole - like a wound, you simply bandage it, sprinkling each layer with plenty of salt. What is the "trick"? Salt, getting into the cracks, simply clogs them - better than any other glue. Sometimes, when the cracks are completely microscopic, it is enough just to sprinkle the "wound" with salt.

If the leak is impressive, use the same clamp or dampen a special service by first inserting a wood / fabric plug into the hole so that the battery does not turn into a fountain.

If you cannot solve the problem on your own, but the water remains, urgently call the masters

So you have learned how to eliminate pipe leaks under pressure, which means that a flood does not threaten your house.

Video: ways to eliminate water leakage

A crack or leak in a sewer line is a real problem that anyone can face. As a result of natural aging, communication systems become vulnerable, so the question of how to repair a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe can be asked even by people who have not yet been affected by this problem.

Moreover, the relevance of this issue is constantly growing. The most optimal solution may be a complete replacement of damaged sewer sections with more modern products, but not all homeowners have this opportunity.

Reasons for the formation of cracks in cast iron sewer pipes

In order to choose the right way to eliminate damage in the sewer pipe, it is important to establish the cause of this situation. First of all, you need to accurately determine the place where the crack formed in the cast iron sewer pipe. To do this, inspect the joints of the branch pipes and reveal obvious defects in the cast-iron pipeline.

The reason for the leakage of the sewer at the junction of the fittings is the negligent attitude of the plumbing workers to the assembly of the system.


Cast iron is a material of weak resistance, therefore, during its operation, any impulse effects, including shocks, should be avoided. Although the uniform load distributed over the entire pipe prevents the problem of repairing the sewer pipes in the apartment.

Modern cast iron products are more durable, but can only withstand minor impacts. At the same time, a load of any intensity for 10-20 years still leads to the formation of a crack, which at best can be simply covered up, and at worst, the pipe will have to be changed.

Ways to eliminate leaks in the sewer system

The problem of how to eliminate a leak in a cast-iron sewer pipe is solved in several ways, the choice of which depends on the strength of the pipeline, the presence of cracks and chips, and also their size.

Repair of sewer pipes without replacing the damaged area can be done in the following cases:

  • The body has minor cracks and holes.
  • A leak was found at the junction of the pipes.


Leakage at the junction of sewer pipes implies sealing the cracked connection, for which the following steps are performed:

  • The system is temporarily turned off.
  • Dry the joint with a rag or hair dryer.
  • Clean the joint from the cement and remove the packing from the cracks.
  • Using a linen plumbing winding, a gap between the pipes is minted.
  • Prepare a solution of polycement and PVA glue and coat the crack with it.
  • It is recommended to start the operation of the sewer system only after a day.

A crack at the junction of sewer pipes can be closed with waterproof glue, epoxy resin, raw rubber, ordinary plasticine or a special silicone sealant. In the latter case, the sewage system can be used after 3 hours.


In order not to have to constantly deal with the repair of cast-iron sewer pipes, it is better to replace the part of the system that has become unusable before its final destruction. Otherwise, as a result of the failure of engineering communications, sewage can flood the apartments of the floors located below.

If the leak is caused by a small hole, you can use the following materials:

  • Bandage-rubber... It is better to use such material for short-term repair of cast-iron pipes, while the bandage must be fixed with aluminum or copper wire.
  • Plug... This repair element is a wooden wedge. When manufacturing, it is important that the product is not very long, as it can cause a blockage in the sewage system. The finished part is hammered into place of the leak and the pipe is wrapped with a strip of gauze. Finally, you can soak the material with epoxy.
  • Gauze... This material, previously soaked in epoxy resin or cement mortar, is wrapped around the pipeline. Such a winding should be in the form of a cocoon.
  • Special clamp... In this way, any leaks in the cast-iron sewer pipe are eliminated even if the water pipe burst. The repair process is as follows: a crack or hole is wrapped with a rubber gasket, covered with a clamp, which is then tightened. Read also: "".


A small crack in a cast iron sewer pipe is eliminated in this way:

  • The crack is widened to form a V.
  • The site is degreased and dried well.
  • Cover this place with sealant or silicone.

Cast iron pipe sealing materials

The methods of sealing the joints of sewer pipes are described above, especially since they have become known since the advent of pipes made of cast iron for the sewer system (read: ""). However, innovative technologies are constantly being introduced into this area, and now experts say that the most effective way to eliminate leaks is to use phosphoric acid and copper oxide.

As a result of the reaction of these substances in the damaged area, a strong solid anlage is formed.


To answer the question of how to seal a crack in a cast iron pipe using this method, you should perform the steps in this order:

  • Sand the area where you plan to place the bookmark using sandpaper or a stiff metal brush.
  • Degrease the prepared area with acetone or other solvent.
  • Prepare a mixture for sealing by mixing phosphoric acid and copper oxide in a ratio of 2: 3.
  • Apply the resulting mixture to the damaged area immediately after mixing. The bookmark hardens very quickly, so you cannot leave the prepared mixture even for a short time. Sewerage after such a repair can be used in a few hours.


The list of ways to eliminate leaks in a cast iron sewer pipe can be completed with one more option. In this case, a mixture of powdered ammonia, sulfur and iron filings should be prepared. All ingredients are mixed and diluted with water until a thick consistency is obtained. This method has been used in practice for a long time, and has proven itself from a very good side.

The formed joints, obtained during the repair of damaged areas and in the process of sealing the joints of sewer pipes, are distinguished by long and flawless operation.

Easier ways to seal a sewer pipe

Quite often, homeowners wonder how to glue a cast-iron sewer pipe if a leak is found at a stamped joint. In this case, use a silicone sealant. Actions are performed in the following order: the sewer pipe socket is cleaned of old putty, debris is removed and the pipe is well dried. After that, the joint is covered with a sealant.

Sometimes you can observe the following situation: there is no leakage in the connection, but unpleasant odors are constantly felt. In this case, it is possible to seal the sewer pipe with the help of cement mortar, with which the joint is simply covered. If you add a little sodium silicate to the cement, then the connection will be stronger, and the solution will set faster.


The easiest way to repair a cast-iron sewer pipe is to use the Cold Welding adhesive. To eliminate the leak in the system in this way, it is necessary to clean the sewer pipe from the existing liquid, dry it and mark with chalk the place where the leak is found. Next, the pipe surface is degreased and a small amount of adhesive is applied. A rubber pad is made on top of it. This method may well be used to eliminate a leak in a sewer made of plastic pipes. In addition, "Cold welding" helps to solve the problem, than to repair the crack in the water pipe.

In addition to all the above methods, it is possible to eliminate the malfunction at the junction of the sewer pipes with a tape, which consists of a copper or aluminum layer on a bitumen-rubber base. The sealing of the sewer pipe, made in this way, is strong and durable, and the process itself does not have any difficulties.

In new houses, the sewage system often consists of plastic pipes, which are not so difficult to replace, but in old houses, cast iron was used. And in this case, replacing pipes is very troublesome, and their service life is just coming to an end due to age. As a result, cracks and water leaks can be observed. However, it is easier to repair a cast iron pipe on site than to replace it, and modern industry offers many suitable tools for this.

Before doing repairs, it is advisable to find out the cause of the malfunction. First of all, you need to determine the location of the leak. This is done by visual inspection for defects. Particular attention should be paid to the joints.

If the system flows at the joints, it means that when installing it, the specialists made mistakes or simply reacted to the installation process negligently, not paying it enough attention.

Despite the apparent strength of cast iron, it is actually quite fragile. For example, pipes can sometimes leak due to a pinpoint impact on some part of them.

In addition, even in cast iron pipes, cracks form over time (the time interval is about 10 - 20 years). Moreover, in some cases, the pipe can be repaired, and sometimes it becomes necessary to completely replace it.

What materials are used to seal cracks

If the pipe can still be repaired, for this it is necessary to select the appropriate material. The question of how to repair a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe is quite extensive, the fact is that many options are possible, which are selected depending on the material of manufacture of the sewer pipes, or visually noticeable defects on them, as well as taking into account the length and diameter.

You can repair a pipe without removing it in 2 cases:

  • Only small defects are visible on the riser;
  • Sewerage runs at the joints.

The most commonly used materials for sealing damaged sewer pipes are: sanitary flax, glue, sealant, gauze, aqueous solution of cement and PVA, liquid welding glue, silicone, copper oxide and orthophosphoric acid. If there is no leak, but only an unpleasant smell is observed, then simple cement is also suitable for repair. And this is not a complete list of what can be used to cover up or repair the damage that has appeared.

Ways to eliminate cracks in the sewer system

In general, the repair of sewer pipes can be divided into two large categories, each of which has its own nuances - this is repair at the joints and the elimination of minor damage.

At the joints

When leaking at the joints, before repairing damage, it is advisable to turn off the water in the apartment, dry the joints by wiping them with a rag or using a hair dryer. Remove cement and packing residues from joints. Next, you need to close the gap formed with a special plumbing flax, and then close the crack in the cast-iron pipe, covering it with a solution of polycement and PVA glue in several layers. After that, the sewage system should not be used for 24 hours so that everything is dry.

Instead of PVA solution and polycement, you can also use a conventional sealant. It will dry in just 3 hours instead of a day. In addition, waterproof glue, raw rubber, epoxy resin, and even children's plasticine are suitable as materials for embedding. And if small defects and cracks still continue to appear on the pipe, then you should think about replacing it. Since soon it will be necessary to carry out repair actions all the time, and then the system will completely fail.


Sealant is a great way to seal a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe

When a pipe is flowing at a stamped joint, regular silicone sealant comes in handy. In this case, the pipe is cleaned of old putty and debris, then dried. If there is no leak, but there is only an unpleasant smell, then simple cement can help out here. To speed up its solidification, a little water glass, otherwise called sodium silicate, is added to the solution.

Another fairly simple way is to use cold weld glue. Before using it, the place of sealing is cleaned, as well as the surface of the pipe is cleaned and degreased, then a patch of this glue is applied to the damaged area. After that, rubber seals are applied. This method is good not only for cast iron, but also for plastic pipes.

In addition, the joints of the pipeline can be reliably sealed using an aluminum or copper tape on a bitumen-rubber base. This option is quite simple and effective, it will allow the sewage system to serve for a long time.

Elimination of longitudinal cracks and small chips

In the case where the leak occurs due to minor damage, you can use for sealing:

  • rubber bandage, but only as a temporary option. This bandage is wrapped around the damaged area, and then the bandage is fixed with copper or aluminum wire, applying it with tight turns;
  • a plug, which is a small wooden wedge. It is inserted into the resulting hole. The size of the piece of wood should be small and fit tightly into the gap, so as not to additionally clog the drain. The wedge is driven into the leak and the pipeline is wrapped with gauze impregnated with epoxy resin.
  • ordinary gauze, it is impregnated with epoxy resin or cement mortar, and then the place of the leak is wrapped in several layers, so that a small cocoon is obtained;
  • special clamp. When using it, the pipe is first wrapped with a rubber gasket, then all this is covered with a clamp, which is tightened. This method is suitable for almost all leaks.

Small cracks can also be repaired as follows: first, you need to expand the damaged area so that you get a depression in the shape of the Latin letter V, and then cover the cracked area with sealant or silicone.

All of the above methods have been and are being used for a long time, but modern technologies can offer several new products. So, for example, now small leaks without dismantling are most reliably removed using phosphoric acid or copper oxide. These reagents harden after a short period of time, and a strong crust forms at the site of damage. If it was decided to use this particular method, then you must perform the following steps:

  • clean the leak with sandpaper or a metal brush;
  • degrease it with acetone or other solvent;
  • prepare a mixture for sealing, most often phosphoric acid and copper oxide are mixed in a ratio of 2: 3;
  • now all that remains is to cover up the leaking places.

This mixture hardens rather quickly, and you can use the sewer in just a few hours.

Another option is to use powdered ammonia mixed with sulfur and iron filings for sealing. All this is diluted with water until a thick mass is formed, and then the damage is covered with the resulting mixture. Such a connection is quite durable.

Leak prevention

In order for the sewer pipes to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to give preference to products made of high quality material, perhaps even pay attention to the name and country of the manufacturer. The same goes for the various components. The main selection criterion in this case is high reliability and long service life.

The selected pipes must be installed carefully, observing all known rules. Even if you entrust this to specialists, problems may still arise in the future due to poor-quality installation. Therefore, the installation process should be given special attention.

A leak caused by minor damage or inaccurate installation of joints is quite simple to eliminate. However, anyway, a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe is a rather unpleasant phenomenon. But now, if the sewer pipe bursts, then this can entail big problems, up to a local flood with a bunch of spoiled things and angry neighbors from below, who, as a result, have suffered brand new repairs. Therefore, it is important to know how to handle cast iron sewer pipes in order to operate them without the need for repairs for as long as possible. After all, it is always easier to prevent a problem than to solve it later.

To do this, it is advisable to sometimes check the state of the sewage system in the house, carefully inspect the pipes for external damage, and make sure that no puddles appear somewhere under them. It is better to repair the detected small external damage immediately, without waiting for the pipe to start flowing in these places, and even more so, without waiting for the size of the defect to increase.

In addition, it is advisable to clean the sewer pipes from time to time, since grease, dirt and small particles accumulate there in large quantities, which can mechanically damage the pipe or accelerate the process of rust formation, and, accordingly, the occurrence of damage. By the way, it is better not to pour especially fatty and thick dishes, such as soup with a lot of ingredients down the drain. You can only drain the liquid, in this case the thick should be collected and discarded separately. The same goes for brewing tea and other liquids with solid or not very solid impurities.

In the case when the sewage system is laid outside the premises, and even higher than the level of freezing of the soil, it is necessary to use insulation otherwise in the temperate Russian climate, such a system runs the risk of living only until the first snow falls or until the first frost occurs.

It is also important to remember that cast iron pipes have a limited service life. And since they are most often found in old houses, their owners quite often have to pay attention to repairs, eliminating cracks, sealing joints, eliminating blockages and fighting unpleasant odors. If this starts to take too long, then it's time to completely replace the sewage system.

Hello our subscribers and readers. Hello everyone who visited us for the first time!

Have your neighbors ever "drowned" you, and you neighbors? Well if not, but if you have already experienced this "happiness", then our material will be useful to you. And we will tell you about how, how heating without draining water

The heating systems are all built according to the same scheme - boiler - supply pipes - devices - return pipes - boiler. It is looped back. The pressure and circulation of the heating medium in central heating systems are maintained by means of pumps. In private houses with an autonomous open heating system, the boiler gives pressure and circulation when heated. In cottages, the heating system is autonomous, closed, the coolant is always under pressure.

In heating systems, pressure control takes place by instruments, but small leaks are still difficult to fix, the automation evens out a slight pressure drop. In private houses, pressure gauges are not installed. Therefore, in both cases, residents have only one way to control the tightness - visual.

When inspecting heating devices and pipes suitable for them, pay attention to damp places. Where there are obvious leaks, water will drip or flow,. But those who hid metal risers in the boxes that one of them is leaking, most likely, will learn from the neighbors, to whom the water has flowed

Causes and locations of leaks

There are only two reasons for the appearance of leaks. The first is mechanical damage. Everything is clear here, but the second reason is corrosion. The cause of corrosion in heating is poor water treatment. In central heating, water treatment equipment purifies water from mechanical impurities and salts. This is not the case in private houses and cottages.

The presence of salts and electricity leads to increased rust formation.

The most rusty places are threaded joints, welds, bends made by heating. Often, a fistula appears in straight sections without welds and threads. Perhaps these are pipe defects or a pipe is installed that is not intended for heating.

When is it better to repair heating pipes

During the inspection, they saw the heating pipe flowing, what to do. When some confusion has passed, the answer will become obvious - immediately eliminate the leaks. But how and when to start a major renovation? Of course in the summer. When it is warm and you can safely stop the heating and drain the water.

But it is not worth delaying the elimination of leaks. If it really breaks through, the damage will be significant. It is necessary to temporarily repair the damage and start repairs after the end of the heating season.


In modern systems that are designed and installed in houses, it is possible to completely turn off one or more branches, without stopping the boiler or riser. In this case, repairs can be carried out without waiting for the end of the heating season.

Repair methods

Several types of heating repairs are known without draining the water, but with pressure relief in the system, but all of them are only a temporary solution:

  • welding repair using brazing welding of steel and polymer pipes
  • mechanical repairs using various accessories of clamps, bandages, etc.
  • chemical method using various chemical compositions (adhesives, sealants, cold welding, mixtures based on epoxy resin, etc.).

If circumstances force you to fix the malfunction with your own hands, then showing some ingenuity and dexterity, you can use other methods. Using improvised means - wire, rubber, self-tapping screws, wooden chops, etc.

On a running system

A working heating system is always under pressure, even in open systems in small houses where expanders are used. Therefore, you need to understand how to seal the leak. And one method is suitable here - the use of a clamp and rubber or bandage.

The sequence is as follows. Having found the place of damage, measure the diameter of the pipe. The clamp is made or purchased according to this size. It is necessary to take into account that with a clamp you cover not only damage, but also several centimeters of the pipe in different directions. Be sure to put rubber under the clamp.


If the damaged area is small, and the pipe diameter is more than 50 mm, it is better to use a factory band, which sits more tightly than the clamp.

On low pressure heating systems, rubber bands and wires can be used. With a tourniquet, stretching it as much as possible, wrap it, and fix it with a wire.

On a stopped system

It is easier to work with the heating turned off. The pumps are turned off or the flow is cut off. The pressure must be relieved. Find the place of the leak and, depending on the access to the damaged area, choose the most suitable repair method.

Required tools and materials

Depending on how you will repair, the set of tools and materials will also change.


Let's try to unify:

  1. A set of welding equipment and electrodes. Welding repair.
  2. Box or open-end wrenches from 8 to 24 mm. When installing bands and clamps.
  3. Latex gloves.
  4. Pliers and knife.
  5. Annealed steel wire 1.5-2.2 mm.

Store funds

There are many interesting things in specialized stores or departments for repairing heating and other pipes. Bandages and clamps, glue of various composition and drying time, dry plumbing mixtures on a cement and polymer basis. There is also just a wonderful thing on sale - sanitary tape. Sticks to any clean surface, so don't tear off. Yes, foil-clad and reinforced.

How to seal a leak

In connection, threads and joints

All heating elements are assembled into a single system using threaded, welded, soldered and fitting connections. Any of them is the least reliable place and happens to flow. Leaks in the joints of pipes, even if metal or polypropylene, can be eliminated with an epoxy-based glue. To do this, the surface of the metal pipe, together with the damage, must be cleaned from old paint and rust. Cleaning can be done with a wire brush, sandpaper or scraped off with a knife.

If the water is still oozing, it is best to wait until it stops.

Prepare fiberglass or medical bandage. If the pipe is 15 to 32 mm in diameter, the length of the fabric is about 30-35 cm. Then add the hardener to the glue base in the proportion indicated in the instructions. It is possible to add more hardener to increase the curing speed. The main thing is not to overdo it, or even before you have time to finish, as the glue hardens. Saturate the fabric with glue and wrap the damaged area. After hardening, heating can be started. Wear rubber gloves. Likewise, you can eliminate leaks at the joints of polypropylene pipes.


Most often, the threaded connections of the radiator and pipes leak. In these places and at the joints, in addition to epoxy glue, cold welding and cement-gypsum dressings can be used. The method is old, but quite workable. Ready-made dressings on sale are rare. Therefore, they are prepared independently. Cement is mixed with alabaster (plaster of paris) in a ratio of 1 to 0.5, diluted with water to a state of thick rustic sour cream, the bandage is cut into strips of 30-35 cm. connections, smeared on top with the remaining solution. Sometimes salt is added to the composition.

It is believed that as a result of increased oxidation of the metal, the fistula will heal faster.

In the radiator and in the pipes

There are damages in the radiator sections. It is often not possible to close the hole in the radiator without dismantling it. It can only be repaired where there is access. If you are "lucky" and the hole is available, it can be repaired with a roofing screw, bolt or chopik. Well, everything is clear with the chopik, sharpen and hammer into the hole, carefully cut off the excess.

It is more difficult with a self-tapping screw. The self-tapping screw must, first of all, be selected in length so that it does not rest against the opposite wall. If there is one, you need to drill a hole 0.5 mm less than the thickness of the self-tapping screw, and wrap it into the hole with a key of 8.

If the battery has a large hole, you can put the bolt in. To do this, you need to drill a hole and cut a thread with a tap and, dipping the bolt body into the paint, screw it into place. This is easy to do only on paper; in reality, everything is much more complicated. The same techniques can be applied to pipe repairs. If, the pipe is thick-walled (3 mm or more.)

Between battery sections

The leakage between the sections of the battery can be eliminated if it is cast iron. For aluminum and bimetallic, the sections are very close and you cannot get there.


Repair using cold welding or epoxy glue, in addition, a narrow clamp can be installed over the glue band or cold welding. He will press everything under him to the body of the battery. A heat-resistant sealant can also be used in combination with the clamp.

Hidden wiring

Hidden, this is a part of the heating system, which is covered with a concrete floor screed, insulation or decorative boxes. In all these cases, the most difficult thing is to find and get to the place of damage. And after that, evaluate which repair method to choose. There is no way without professionals.

On a straight section

On straight and accessible sections, you can use any method that you like and work best for. But the most reliable will be the mechanical method using clamps or bandages.

Frequent mistakes

You cannot save on clamps and put narrow ones. Remember, the clamp should close the pipe with a margin of 2-3 cm on each side of the fistula, because the damage can be much greater on the inside.

Do not grasp the pipe wrench and do not try to tighten the "flowing" threads, on old pipes - break off.

The article provides different methods for eliminating leaks in water pipes, and also describes how to repair pipes on your own. You will learn about the types of repair compounds, whether there are ways to stop the pipe break. The article will tell you about the simplest and most affordable pipe restoration options.

Anyone who at least once in his life faced the problem of pipe breakthrough or leakage knows that this nuisance, in case of confusion, can cause flooding and other unpleasant consequences. If you act decisively at this point, the consequences can be avoided.

First of all, you should shut off the water or drains, to get rid of the water in the pipe as much as possible. If the water still continues to flow, we offer several repair methods.

Emergency adhesive

The correct name for this compound is emergency metal polymer. It consists of a two-component epoxy adhesive and metal dust. More precisely, the dust is already mixed with the resin, it remains to add the hardener at the right time. With such a composition, you can close up a pipe in which the flow goes by gravity.

It should be noted that this composition only works at minimum pressure. There is also a composition "SILTEK V-37 Hydrocork" for sealing leaks in concrete and asbestos pipes.

Methods that provide connection or clamping of metal parts with threaded rods are called "cold" or locksmiths. They pass without application:

  • current (arc welding);
  • chemical reaction (gluing);
  • elevated temperature (vulcanization, adhesion).

Accordingly, these methods have a huge advantage over the others, since they provide a result without the slightest loss of quality (!) When working during a leak or breakthrough. More precisely, the result will be the same both in the presence of water and in a dry area.

Self-tapping screw

This universal assistant will be useful to us here as well. If a small diameter hole (1-4 mm) is formed in the pipe, a galvanized screw with a press washer can be screwed into it. If at the same time there is an automobile (aviation) washer with a rubber gasket, there will be no leakage for a long time, perhaps several years. But a hook will appear inside the pipe, on which a blockage may form over time. This method is good in that it allows you to eliminate emergency leaks even under pressure.

Clamp

This is the most effective method of "cold" repairs, which, if performed properly, becomes a permanent element of the system. A properly made clamp can close a hole or crack up to 1/3 of its circumference. This is especially true for cast iron sewers.

If your sewer pipes are highly worn, keep a few clamp blanks ready. This is a strip of metal (galvanized, preferably thicker) with drilled holes at the ends. Try the strip against the pipe to find out the clamp size. The "kit" includes a rubber pad (flap) and a bolt with a nut and washers. If a leak appears, simply install the flap in this place and clamp it with a clamp.

The same goes for water pipes. A conventional worm clamp (or preferably several) is a reliable and quick way to eliminate leaks in any pipe with a diameter of up to 50 mm, regardless of the material.

You can also use the tube holder as a flap clamp. Its rubber edge holds the pressure perfectly.

Finally, there are special pipe clamps for repairing pipes. They have a twin rod of two screws and a rubberized contact surface. Even professionals use such devices if they have to eliminate leaks on worn pipes that will soon be replaced. The use of welding in such cases is impractical.

Soldering polypropylene (PPR)

Almost everything has been said about the brazing of PPR pipes, but few know about brazing during a leak. If it happens that water is oozing out of the pipe, it will not work well to solder it. To do this quickly, without waiting for the water to drain completely, insert mashed bread into the pipe - as much as it will fit. Then, acting quickly and accurately, the ball valve should be soldered in the standard way. While the bread is soaking with water, the solder will already cool down. Then the loose cork is washed out by the pressure of water.

The following methods are only suitable if the flow is completely stopped.

Mounting tape

Reinforced metallized tape will help in sealing a burst (thawed) pipe. For repair, you need to clean and dry the breakout section well. Then degrease.

Attention! The better the stripping is, the more reliable the adhesive tape will stick.

Then wind the tape around the pipe as tightly as possible, blocking the breakout point. A pipe sealed in this way maintains a pressure of up to 2.5 bar for years.

Video - how to fix a pipe with mounting tape

In the same way, you can glue other things - a barrel, a ladle, a flask.

Epoxy resin or bitumen

The site of the defect can be repeatedly covered with epoxy or bitumen primer (ideally hot bitumen). Apply the next layer on the cooled and hardened previous one. Before work, clean and degrease the surface. Suitable as a temporary repair for sewer pipes (especially at the joints).

Patch

The method is good for sewer pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. In principle, a patch can repair damage of any size, even more than 1/3 of the circumference. The operation can be carried out locally, but the pipe must be dry.

Operating procedure:

  1. Pick up and cut a patch from the same pipe. It should cover the defect by 15-20 mm.
  2. Clean and degrease the damaged area and patch.
  3. Apply any type of plastic adhesive to the contact surfaces - epoxy, hot melt, superglue, polyurethane (cold welding).
  4. Attach a patch and tape tightly.
  5. Remove the tape after drying.

This method is also used for steel pipes, only electric welding is used instead of glue and tape.

Butt joint

It is impossible to say for sure when and where this technique may come in handy, but it is better to know about it than not to know. Plastic bottles are made of heat-shrinkable plastic and it retains its properties, falling into our hands as a container. This can be advantageously used to reinforce the butt joint - by itself it is usually very weak.

To do this, two PPR pipes or fragments of pipes that need to be connected should be well joined. Then coat with one of the adhesives:

  • polyurethane
  • hot melt
  • epoxy

Apply the adhesive generously to the adjacent pipe section. After that, until the glue has frozen, put on a "sleeve" from a plastic bottle at the junction and heat it with a construction hairdryer until the plastic covers the pipe. It works best with hot melt glue - it is welded into the pipe and shell. The process is shown schematically in the video.

Video - how to solder a pipe

A sudden pipe rupture can completely damage a room and even an apartment. The floors and furniture will swell, the upholstery will deteriorate, the electronics will fail, and you don't have to talk about the bill that the neighbors will put up below. These can be the consequences of inattention to pressure pipes. Therefore, it is easier and better to prevent any trouble than to correct it.