Unpleasant smell in the bath what to do. Sewerage in the bath - how to do it right? How to eliminate the smell in the bath from the drain pit. Benefits of ozonation technology

Odor trap is a specially created water plug that protects the room from the unpleasant "odor" of the sewage system. Water accumulates in the curved section of the pipe, completely overlapping the diameter. Thus, the water prevents bad odors from entering the room.

When it is necessary to use a water seal in the bath

It is necessary to use such a structure for the sewage system if the water is drained into the general water supply system. In the event that the liquid is drained into a pit outside the bath, there will be no bad smell. If the bath sewer was connected to a common system, then ready-made siphons (like for a washbasin or bath) of any type can be used. Corrugated hose or bottle type metal or plastic closures are commercially available. In rare cases, there are cast iron water locks, but they have not been produced for several years. In fact, such a device consists of two glasses inserted one into the other. After the floors are poured in the bath, the top of the water seal should be in a small depression to completely drain the liquid.

Such a device has two main advantages:

it should be used as a sump;
even if water freezes inside it, it should not be damaged.

We make a water seal ourselves

Quite simply, you can do it yourself. To do this, you need to take a piece of pipe of the required diameter and bend it in the shape of the letter "U" and weld it to the pipe after the drain funnel (usually its height is 50-70 mm). It is best to do this when laying the foundation and arranging the floor, however, if the bath is already ready, and an unpleasant smell darkens your stay in it, then you can install it later.

If the sewer pipes are accessible and the foundation of the building is columnar, then this will greatly facilitate the work. The required piece of pipe can be welded to the drain pipe under the bath. In the event that there is no access to the pipes, then it will need to be organized: disassemble part of the floor, if it is made of wood, or cut it out with a grinder, if it is concrete. After that, a pipe with a bend is attached to the sewer by means of welding or a coupling.

It should also be borne in mind that water can evaporate, and if you do not use the sewer for a long time, after 40-50 days it will completely dry out and gases will freely enter the room.

What is a dry odor trap?

Also, this structure can be dry. There is no water in it, and dry materials are used as a damper. This option, as you understand, is not able to freeze, while it can be of several types:

it is a spring-held diaphragm when there is no water. When a liquid enters, the power of the spring is not enough to hold it, the damper rises, and the liquid is drained. An object of a certain shape (often a large-diameter ball) blocks the air passage. When liquid enters, the object floats, opening the drain. More complex models use molecular memory of the material.

You can make a simple dry odor trap for a bath with your own hands, there is nothing complicated about it. Choose a plastic ball slightly larger than the drain pipe. When there is no water, such a ball will close the air from the sewer. As soon as the liquid flows in, the drain will be emptied. This type of system can work in winter, even if the ball freezes to the drain, a little boiling water can melt the ice in just a few minutes, and the system will work normally.

Steam trap in the bath

The odor trap is a specially created water plug that protects the room from the unpleasant "odor" of the sewage system.

Sewer trap for a bath

The odor trap is a specially designed water plug that prevents the "odors" of the sewer from entering the room. Water accumulates in the curved section of the pipe, completely overlapping the diameter. Thus, the water prevents odors from entering the room.

The principle of organizing a water seal on the sewer

When to use a water seal in a bath

In the bath, it is necessary to use a water seal for the sewage system if the water is drained into the general drainage system. If the water is drained outside the bath into a pit, from where it is absorbed, there can be no smell in this case.

If the bath sewer is connected to a common system, you can use ready-made siphons (like for a bathroom or washbasin) of any design. There are plastic or metal bottle-type or corrugated hose closures on sale.

Bottle type sewer odor trap

Sometimes you can still find a cast iron odor trap, but their production was stopped several years ago, and they are found mainly in old houses.

It looks like a water seal for a plastic sewer

There are CENTER AQUAPA water traps on sale, which are inserted into a plastic pipe with a diameter of 55 mm or 110 mm.

CENTER AQUAPA water odor trap inserted into a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm

In fact, the odor trap is two glasses inserted one into the other.

Upper and lower parts of the CENTER AQUAPA odor trap

After pouring the floors in the bath, the top of the water seal should be in a small depression to completely drain the water.

The upper part of the water seal is at the level of the lowest point

This hydraulic seal has two advantages:

It additionally serves as a sedimentation tank;
Even if water freezes in the water seal, it will not be damaged.

How to make a water seal with your own hands

You can easily make a water seal with your own hands. To do this, a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter must be bent in the shape of the letter "U" and welded (connected with couplings) to the pipe after the drain funnel (the height of the water seal is usually 50-70 mm). It is advisable to do this during the laying of the foundation and arrangement of the floors, but if the bath is already functioning and the smell interferes, you can try to eliminate this nuisance.

If the foundation is columnar and sewer pipes are available, this makes things easier. Under the bath, you can weld the desired piece of pipe to the drain pipe. If there is no access to the pipes, you will have to organize it: disassemble part of the floor if it is wooden, or cut it out with a grinder if it is concrete. After that, connect a pipe with a bend to the sewer using couplings or welding.

It must be taken into account that water from any water seal evaporates. And if you do not use the sewage system for a long time, after 40-50 days it will dry up completely, and gases from the sewage system will freely penetrate into the room.

What is a dry odor trap

There is another option for a water seal - dry. There is no water in it, and various materials are used as a damper. As you can imagine, such a water seal does not freeze. There are several types of dry seals for sewage:

This is a membrane that is held in place by a spring if there is no water. When water enters, the power of the spring is not enough to hold it, the damper rises and the water is drained.

It looks like a drain with a dry odor trap to the sewer

An object of a certain shape (usually a ball with a larger diameter than a pipe) blocks the air passage. As soon as water flows in, the object floats up, opening the drain.
More sophisticated technological models that use the molecular memory of materials.

For a bath, an elementary dry water seal can be made with your own hands, it's quite simple. You need to pick up a plastic ball slightly larger than the drain pipe. Put it on a pipe, and make some kind of chamber, within which it will be located. When there is no water, the ball shuts off the air from the sewer. When water enters, it floats (within the chamber) and releases the drain. Such a system is functional in winter conditions.: Even if the ball freezes to the drain, some hot water will melt the ice in a matter of minutes and the system will function normally.

Sewer trap for a bath - types and features of self-production

There are various types of water locks for the bath, so you must not make a mistake in your choice. Sometimes it is better to use a water trap and sometimes dry.

Sewer trap in a bath

Any rural option, when the water from the bath simply goes out into the cracks between the boards, has its own difficulties. And if there is a main or autonomous sewerage on the site, then another task arises - to get rid of the penetration of gases from the sewerage into the bath. There is a simple solution - install a water seal.

What is a water seal

They are of two types:

U-shaped (knee) odor trap

From the figure it is absolutely clear that this is a simple device, similar to a hookah, in contrast to it does not allow air to pass through, creating a water lock... And what happens in the hookah is called a breakdown of the water seal.

The pipe diameter and the connection method can only affect the performance of such a device, the main thing that is required of it is tightness, and its lowest point should be at least 50 mm below the drain pipe.

Any materials at hand are suitable for a water seal, but we must not forget that in the event that access to it is closed, reliability and the ability to clean is of decisive importance.

The second figure shows how water, having evaporated from the cork (and this will surely happen in 40-50 days), opens up the possibility for air to enter from the sewer.

So you need to either periodically fill it with water, or use a different type of water seal, or seal it tightly during a long absence.

Bottle odor trap

It is clear from this figure that another design solution did not change the function of this device - to create a water lock. Another name for such a thing is a siphon.

It is also clear that the pipe connection must be tight. Such a water seal is also a sump.

The lower part of a conventional bottle siphon for washing can be unscrewed for cleaning, and if a homemade closure of this type is used, for example, in the floor, then the upper part should be collapsible.

Dry odor traps

The most pressing question for a bath with a drain into the sewer is not so much the choice of the design of the ladder, but the laying of the line itself. Any ready-made version of the drain from the store, including the "dry" one, contains a water seal with a water column of 30 mm, so that with regular use of the bath, there will be no problems with the drying of the water plug... And the one who knows that the bath will not be in use for a long time can simply drown out the drain.

For those who want to forget and not remember the dried siphon, there are so-called dry ladders.

There are two types of dry seal.

Float type

It is best to consider a specific sample, for example, the Austrian HL 310 NPr.

Vertical drain. The top element is trimmed to the required size from 12 to 70 mm and embedded in the screed.

The polyethylene housing is designed for waste water temperatures up to 85 degrees. The installation procedure for different cases is described in the passport.

The float, if the water dries out, simply goes down and closes the pipe. The height of the water column of the valve is 50 mm (complies with Austrian city regulations).

The principle of operation is clearly visible in the picture.

In the working position, the water raises and holds the float at the same level and the system works as one of the variants of the water seal. If the bath is not used for a long time, then the water from the shutter evaporates, and the float closes the drain hole before the water has completely evaporated.

Craftsmen have come up with an option that can work no worse than a factory one. The main difference from this scheme is that such a float in the form of an inverted glass is fixed so that its bottom is higher than the drain hole by more than the diameter of the drain pipe. And the hole itself closes a light ball with a diameter larger than the drain - it acts as a float.

Pendulum type

In the photo, a specific example is a dry shutter for 100 mm gangways in the throat - Viega 583255.

Below, near the shutter, two curtains are visible, suspended at an angle to the vertical - this is the pendulum shutter. The curtains are closed by their own weight, and the water opens them when draining. The height of the water column of the water seal is 32 mm - quite enough for a country bath. In Germany itself, which is declared as a manufacturing country, when designing a sewerage system in city houses, it is assumed that plumbing fixtures in apartments have a water seal height equal to 50-60 mm, but not 32!

If the force of gravity that closes the curtains is replaced by the force of the spring, then you get different options for spring type dry closures, with more options.

Of course, all of the listed valves contain some version of the siphon.

There is another type of dry locks, for which sometimes too abstruse names are invented for the type of cellular memory of the material. Usually they are a stocking made of flattened rubber, which begins to pass water under a slight pressure. It is unlikely that this is of interest for a country bath.

Skillful owners, even with very limited funds, can easily reproduce, and possibly improve any type of water seal.

Floor and sewerage

There is much more trouble with laying a sewer line than directly with a drain from a bathhouse, but it is also better to do it, the more accurately, the better.

Even if the floor in the bath is covered with wooden bars, then it is still better to make a screed along the beacons with a slight uniform slope towards the ladder, and put tiles on it. The final trimming of the ladder extension can be done when it is known exactly at what height the tiles will approach the drain point. If the work is done very carefully, then even with a minimal slope there will be no puddles.

Providing access, with the possibility of replacing all elements, is too much of a luxury for an ordinary bath. Therefore, you should not avoid work that may seem like unnecessary, for example, the depth of the sewerage should not be less than the freezing depth... Insulating the floor under the screed with a 20 cm layer of expanded clay with a greasy cement mortar is by no means an excess. A dry ladder is also not a panacea - dirt trapped in the shutter can prevent it from closing tightly. At the end of the season, it will not hurt to rinse the removable elements. Buying a dry odor trap in a store or making one yourself is not necessarily a matter of financial difficulties.

Dry odor trap for sewage in a bath: factory and homemade options

Types of water traps. What is the difference between a dry and a wet odor trap. Is it possible to make a dry water seal for the sewage system in the bath yourself.

We begin to build a bathhouse

Creating a drain pit

The construction of a bath is not a complicated process. An integral part of this room is a stove, a steam room and a drain pit. Before starting masonry work, you should pay close attention to creating a future drain for the correct drainage of water. It is necessary to make this structure in such a way that the pit is in operation for a long period of time, and the water flow flows unhindered. At the same time, the drain should not emit strong and unpleasant odors, as well as create obstacles on the site.

Before building a bath, it is necessary to draw up a plan with detailed dimensions of all premises.

To carry out construction work, we need the following tools:

concrete mixer;
2 shovels - bayonet and shovel;
several buckets (up to 5 pieces);
trowel;
pick;
ladder;
building level;
roulette;
rammer;
pliers.

The location of the wastewater pit may vary. It can be placed inside the bath under the floor where the sink will be located, and outside the building foundation. When the drain pit is intended for temporary use, then it can be made small and located behind the bath. Cover or leave open for periodic cleaning.

The creation of a temporary drainage pit in most cases is carried out on land plots consisting of clay-type soils.

Schematic gutter device.

The “rough” floor is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of expanded clay, which helps to increase the service life of the concrete floor, levels the temperature difference in winter and prevents the pit from freezing in the cold period. The area of the entire floor is reinforced with scraps of corners, thick wire or pipes, which are attached to the pit cover. Pouring of concrete mortar is carried out with the presence of slopes directed from the walls to the drain.

Creating a drain pit

Products made of metal, asbestos or plastic can be used as drain pipes. Plastic pipes are more preferable due to their low price and ease of installation.

The construction of a bath is not a complicated process. An integral part of this room is a stove, a steam room and a drain pit. Before starting masonry work, you should pay close attention to creating a future drain for the correct drainage of water. It is necessary to make this structure in such a way that the pit is in operation for a long period of time, and the water flow flows unhindered. At the same time, the drain should not emit strong and unpleasant odors, as well as create obstacles on the site.

In the event that it is envisaged to create a permanent drain, the pit should be placed in the central part of the bath. Its dimensions should be as follows: length and width - up to 0.5 m, depth - up to 1.5 m. The walls of the drain pit are filled with a 20-centimeter layer of concrete mortar, which is reinforced with a metal mesh and compacted with small stones or pieces of brick.

Diagram of a drain pit from old tires.

After the walls have been concreted, the pit is covered with wooden planks soaked in a used diesel oil mixture. To cover the pit, you can use boards from the formwork, removing them after the poured solution has solidified. A concrete cover is poured over the boards, the thickness of which is about 10 cm. The cover is pre-reinforced with wire. To strengthen the walls of the pit, you can use concrete or metal rings (half rings). The main thing is that during the implementation of this process, the entire structure is firmly strengthened and does not collapse.

A drain hole should be made for the pit cover. In this case, it must be connected to a water seal. In turn, the water seal is located in the most convenient and accessible place of the bath. In terms of technological features, the creation of a drain pit is somewhat reminiscent of a septic tank device, but in much smaller volumes and sizes.

The main design solution for avoiding unpleasant odors

The water seal prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drainage pit into the interior of the bath, which contributes to a comfortable stay in the room. The shutter is made of metal and installed before the floor is poured or concreted in a small recess into which a plate made of solid sheet is inserted (it is better to use stainless steel or non-ferrous metal). The bottom of the plate should be about 5-10 mm below the drainage pipe. A water seal is usually made at the lowest point in the middle of the room. The entire surface is reinforced with metal and lining wire.

Bath water trap and drain: creation process and location

The bath water seal prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drain pit into the interior of the room, which contributes to a comfortable stay in it.

Sewerage in the bath with their own hands scheme

Long gone are unsightly bath buildings with an arbitrary drain of dirty water into "nowhere" or the nearest body of water. Today the sewage system in the bath is not a luxury, but a necessity. The construction of a high-quality wastewater drainage system is pushed not only by the norms of ethics and aesthetics, but also by the requirements of laws aimed at ensuring the ecological safety of the environment.

Sewerage for a bath with your own hands

The first step to the improvement of the bath is to assess the condition of the soil at the site, determine the optimal depth of pipe laying and decide on the location of the septic tank. The easiest way is for those homeowners who were directly involved in the construction of the bathhouse or erected (are erecting) it on their own. For them, the type of soil, the point of its freezing (TPG) and the level of occurrence of groundwater (GWL) are not a secret.

Did you build a bathhouse yourself? So you should already have data on soil geology

Without knowing these indicators, it is impossible to build a trouble-free sewerage system. For those who purchased a plot with a bathhouse built on it, you will need to perform a set of simple observations and calculations.

Independent study of the geology of the site

To determine the type of soil, an express study can be carried out, which does not require special knowledge and is based on visual inspection and tactile sensations. For this purpose, a hole is dug 25-30 cm deep below the TPG in the proposed place of laying the pipes. Information on the depth of soil freezing in a given area can be obtained from neighbors, from reference books, on specialized Internet resources.

The depth of soil freezing

It is important to take a soil sample precisely at the bottom of the pit, since the laying of sewer pipes will be carried out at this level. After that, the soil sample is carefully examined visually, rubbed between the palms, rolled into a tourniquet.

And they evaluate the results according to the table.

Methods for determining soils

If it turns out that the soil is clay or loam, you should know that these categories of soils are classified as highly loamy. In this case, the pipes will need to be laid on a sandy "cushion" by analogy with "floating" foundations. The sand will act as a shock absorber during seasonal soil movements and the integrity of the underground part of the sewer system will not be disturbed.

After the safe depth of the pipeline has been found out, the issue of the location of the septic tank (filtration well) is being resolved. The waste water intake point should be at least 15 m apart from the water intake point and not closer than 7 m from the bath foundation.

Choosing the type of sewer system

For the improvement of the bath, it is possible to use three types of individual sewerage:

free-flow;
pressure head;
connected to a centralized city drainage system or to the operating sewerage system of a private house.

Free-flow system

The gravity drainage method is otherwise called gravity. This is the simplest and least expensive type of sewage system for a bath. Its main advantage: non-volatility. Installation of a non-pressure system requires careful observance of the slope of the pipes (1-1.5 cm per 1 running meter) and is impossible in case of difficult site relief.

To transport wastewater, pipes of a larger diameter are needed than with a pressure system. Straightness of the line is highly desirable. If the pipeline diagram includes turning points, inspection wells are equipped in these places. This rule applies to any type of sewer system.

Installation of gravity sewer pipes Observation well

Pressure system

General scheme of pressure sewerage

The pressure sewerage system provides for the forced transportation of wastewater, which is provided by a pump or pumping station. The equipment can be installed both inside and outside the premises. A pressurized sewage system for a bath is built in the event that, for some reason, it is impossible to make a non-pressurized one. Features of this type of sewage:

pressure head is more expensive than gravity;
volatile;
requires equipment insulation in winter.

Pressure sewerage system with fecal pump Sewer pressure pipe

Mortise sewage system

Less time consuming, but the most troublesome way is to connect to a centralized sewer network. This method is not possible for all bath owners. Therefore, it does not make sense to consider it in all its details.

Connection to a centralized sewerage network

More often used is the connection of the sewage system to the septic tank already available on the site. However, in this case, you will have to choose the type of drainage system (pressure or gravity).

Connection to a septic tank

We design a sewerage scheme for a bath

For greater ease of design, a single sewer system is divided into two types: internal and external. The first includes communications inside the building, the second - outside the building. Having familiarized yourself with the basic principles of building a circuit, it is easy to develop it yourself.

Design stages

It is necessary to draw a plan of the bath, taking into account the thickness of the walls and partitions of the building. Graph paper is best for this purpose, but you can also use a regular piece of paper in the box.

External network design rules:

at the junction of the external and internal sewerage, an inspection hatch is provided;
according to SNiP, inspection wells are arranged at the turning points of the line, at the points of connection of a separate lateral branch of the pipeline, every 15-35 m of a straight line with a pipe diameter of 100-150 mm;
according to SNiP, the slope of the external sewage system with a pipe diameter of 110-150 mm is 0.01 (1 cm per 1 meter);
the first revision well should be no closer than 3 m and no further than 12 m from the bath;
if the site has a large slope and a toilet is provided in the room, arrange a multi-stage sewage system with differential wells.

An approximate scheme of the internal sewerage of a bath

Hydraulic seal device options

A water seal is the most important element of the sewer system, the purpose of which is to cut off unpleasant odors coming from a septic tank (drain pit). Simply put, this is a water plug that is in the pipe even if the bath is not used. An example of the simplest water seal is a U-shaped siphon. In a line made of plastic pipes, a water plug is arranged using three shaped elements: bends.

The difficulty is that with rare use of the sewer system, the water in the water seal tends to evaporate. In this case, experts recommend installing a dry seal. It is a simple plastic or metal structure equipped with a spring and a damper (membrane) that blocks the outlet from the pipe. When water enters the system, the flap is folded back under its pressure, and after the flow has passed, it returns to its place.

Craftsmen make unique homemade bath drain valve systems. Optionally, you can use one of the following options.

Funnel and ball valve. An example for clarity

Dry seal in a sewer pit

Which pipes to choose

In fact, the choice of pipes for sewage is not so great.

Pig-iron pipes for sewerage

PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
PVCH (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
PP (polypropylene);
HDPE (low pressure polyethylene);
corrugated polyethylene.

Any of these products can be safely used in a sewer device. The diameter of the main line is selected based on the expected intensity of operation of the building and the number of drainage points. For an average bath with a steam room, washing and toilet, when installing a gravity drainage system, pipes with a cross section of 100-110 mm are required. If the toilet is not provided, a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient. Plumbing is connected to the main pipeline with pipes with a cross section of 50 mm.

Installation of the internal sewerage system of the bath

It is necessary to start the sewage system at the construction stage of the bath. But it is possible to equip an already finished building that has been in use for a long time. The scope of work and their sequence are different in both cases, so each of the options must be considered separately.

Pipes for the internal sewerage of a bath

Installation of sewerage at the construction stage of the bath

To carry out the work, you will need a previously drawn up plan (diagram) of the sewer system. In order to accurately find the connection points of plumbing elements (ladders, shower cabins, toilet bowls, sinks, etc.), the marking is started after the foundation is erected. In the places where the main highway is laid, trenches of the appropriate width and depth are dug.

Important: The bottom of each ditch is leveled taking into account the required slope towards the septic tank.

Then they start laying pipes. Experts advise starting the installation of the sewer system with the installation of the main pipe and large (nodal) elements, to which side branches of a smaller diameter are subsequently brought.

Sewerage system installation

At the plumbing connection points, vertical pipes are installed. To avoid the penetration of foreign objects into the network, each branch is closed with a plug. A ventilation riser is mounted.

At the plumbing connection points, vertical pipes with plugs are installed

In regions with cold climates, pipes are insulated. For this purpose, fibrous materials (mineral wool and its analogs), polystyrene semi-cylinders, and foamed polyethylene are used. If desired, you can pre-wrap the pipes with noise-absorbing material, which will significantly reduce the volume of sounds emitted by the operating system.

Form a sand cushion.

Indoor sewerage installation

If the bath has been in operation for several years, it is also possible to arrange a drainage system for dirty water in it. To do this, you will need to draw up a diagram and open the floor in the right places. Installation of pipes is carried out at the level of the foundation, in one of the walls of which a hole is drilled for the outlet of the main line.

Ladders are installed in the washing and steam rooms. In performing the work, the following rules are adhered to:

the ladder should be located flush with the floor;
the gaps are closed with moisture resistant grout;
the tiles are laid after installing the ladder.

External sewerage device for a bath

The main element of the external drainage system is a septic tank. If there is no toilet in the bath, there is no need to buy a factory product or to equip a well with multilevel filtration of waste water on your own. It is enough to dig a drainage hole. But it is relevant only for soils with a high level of moisture permeability (stony, sandy, sandy loam).

Video - Do-it-yourself drain pit

Installation of a sewerage system with a drainage pit

according to the scheme, the site is marked: the location of the drainage point is found, the route of the highway is determined;
dig a hole 1-1.5 m deep below the TPG;
a 20-30 cm layer of sand and gravel is poured onto the bottom;
in order to prevent the crumbling of soil walls, a metal container or a column of large-diameter car tires can be installed in the pit. A more solid structure is a frame built of bricks.

Start laying the line. Dig a trench below the TPG and form a slope towards the drainage pit. Pipes are laid and the slope is checked for compliance with SNiP requirements.

Inspection wells are arranged at the turning points of the pipeline. In order to prevent freezing of pipes in these places in cold weather, it is necessary to carry out insulation and close the holes with double covers.

The place where the pipe is inserted into the drainage pit is sealed with cement mortar or polyurethane foam.

The mains are insulated in any convenient way: by wrapping pipes with mineral wool or by laying foam.

Sewerage with a pit

In areas with clayey soil for waste disposal, it is recommended to install a pit located under the floor of the bath. The presence of this drain does not relieve the owner of the need to install an external line that transports water outside the premises. The pit serves as an auxiliary structure for the smooth operation of the sewerage system.

Sewerage with a pit

A square-shaped pit is dug under the floor with an edge length of at least half a meter and a depth of 1-1.5 m. At a height of 10-15 cm from the floor level, a pipe is installed connecting the pit with the external sewage system. Observe a slope of 1 cm per 1 running meter towards the water outlet. The bottom and walls of the pit are concreted.

Basic moments

The owner of the bath must remember that each stage of the sewage system requires careful compliance with the requirements for it. The reliability of the system is ensured by a correctly developed scheme and an exact compliance with the slope of the pipes to the norms of SNiP. The comfort of staying in the bath is guaranteed by the presence of a hydro or dry shutter.

You should not neglect the device of the ventilation system, as it forms an optimal air exchange and promotes weathering of moisture after bath procedures. This will help prevent mold and mildew growth. For regions with a cold climate, it is extremely important to perform high-quality work on the insulation of the sewer system.

Sewerage in the bath with your own hands diagram and step-by-step instructions!

Find out how to install an external and internal sewerage system. The choice of pipes, installation options, Sewerage in the bath do-it-yourself diagram, photo + video.

An unpleasant smell from the sewage system in the bathroom, toilet or in the kitchen sometimes appears due to various reasons. Unfortunately, it is not possible to single out any one of them.
Often, it is only by checking and eliminating several possible sources of odor that a result can be achieved.
Hydraulic seal as a cause of odor
A water seal or, simply, a siphon is a curved pipe or a device filled with liquid in a special way, designed to separate two adjacent gaseous media in this way, while preventing them from mixing.
That is, the siphons are just provided in order to prevent the penetration of an unpleasant odor into the living space. And if nothing interferes with the water seal, then it copes with the task.
However, due to the pressure drops in the sewage system relative to the room, all the difficulties arise:
if the pressure in the system after the siphon exceeds atmospheric, then the air from the sewer system, sometimes almost imperceptibly - in the form of small bubbles, and sometimes with a large and loud splash, will enter the room along with an unpleasant odor;

if the drains moving through the pipe completely fill its cross-section, then the siphon will be emptied under the action of a vacuum (vacuum), thereby establishing free access of gases from the sewer to the room.

How to get rid of the smell from the sewer in this case.
So:
should be carried outlaying of sewer pipes maximum (within reasonable limits) diameter, because the smaller the cross-sectional area of the pipe, the higher the likelihood of it being blocked by drains and, accordingly, the occurrence of rarefaction.

deposits on the pipe walls and blockages should be avoided, which usually leads to a decrease in the bore diameter of the pipe, and, as a result, to the situation described in the first paragraph.

Sewerage ventilation in a private house is represented by pipes that are combined with the sewer network and are needed to provide an air flow for the constant pressure system and so that the removal of household waste is silent. In the event that there is no ventilation, there is a rarefaction of air at the moment when waste water is discharged.
Why it happens? To understand this, you need to imagine how the fluid is drained from the container with a hose that is inserted from above, for example, like in a gas tank of a car. In order for the liquid to go, you need to suck from the hose and gasoline flows out.
The same is observed both in autonomous and urban centralized sewerage systems, when wastewater is discharged. A plug is formed in the sewage system, which, moving downward, thinns the air. As a result, water is sucked out of the siphons.
That is why ventilation is necessary to prevent unpleasant odors. It is also worth noting the fact that if there is a local sewage system in the house, then without ventilation it will not work at all.

Ozonation of air in a bath or sauna contributes not only to the elimination of any unpleasant odors, but also to the destruction of pathogens of fungal and viral diseases and the destruction of toxins. Due to the high humidity of the room and high temperature conditions, the rooms of baths or saunas are an ideal environment for the reproduction of pathogenic bacteria, viruses and various fungal microorganisms. Based on this, keeping a bath and sauna in proper hygienic condition is quite a challenge!

Ozone efficiency:

The safe long-term functioning of both the bath and the sauna largely depends on the timely and correct care of them. According to the instructions, the duties of the bathhouse staff include simple rules for the care of the premises. And for the disinfection of the bath, professional equipment for ozonation of premises is used, and work with it should be carried out only by a qualified, experienced specialist!

Ozonation is an environmentally friendly technology for purifying air and surfaces; it is based on the use of ozone, a powerful oxidizing agent. This technology helps us easily and quickly disinfect baths and saunas without harming human health! Remove any unpleasant odor (including the smell of dampness, mold, sweat), effectively remove the mold itself, as well as destroy insects and rodents - pests.

A household ozonizer will not solve your problems! To destroy insects and rodents, remove mold and odors, you can only use industrial equipment for ozonization!

We use powerful industrial ozonizers, during which it is prohibited to stay indoors! After ozonation and ventilation, the air in the sauna will be absolutely clean and beneficial for people, animals and domestic plants. Ozone leaves no residue on walls, equipment and furniture!

Ozone not only removes unpleasant odors, but also completely sterilizes your room! Ozone penetrates into everything, even the most inaccessible places, filling the entire room. Plus, ozone has a detrimental effect on fungal (mold) spores, viruses, bacteria, insects and even rodents!

Benefits of ozonation technology:

After ozone treatment, the room does not need to be cleaned and nothing needs to be washed. All surfaces and objects in the room will be completely disinfected (sterilized)!
After ozonation, no unpleasant odors and harmful chemical compounds will remain in the room! Only clean air!
Ozonation is one solution for five problems: elimination of unpleasant odors, disinfection, pest control, deratization and destruction of mold spores, in just one ozone treatment!

Before ozonation of a bath (sauna), you need:

Carry out wet cleaning indoors.
Remove fresh flowers and plants from the room.
Leave the room during processing (+ 30-60 min).

Do you want to disinfect a bath or sauna? Remove odors, mold, root out rodents and insects in the bath? Call us! We will carry out the ozonation of your premises quickly and efficiently!

Owners of private households sometimes face an unpleasant situation when the bathhouse smells of sewage. Experienced plumbers will tell you what to do when such problems appear, and what methods of dealing are the most effective.

Chemical Compositions

If the causes of sewage odors lie in the accumulation of waste and the multiplication of bacteria inside the drainage system, then it is advisable to use special chemical compounds that clean the drain parts and remove fat deposits from the walls of the pipes.

The best means to cope with such tasks are:

Mole.
San Clean.
Odorgon.
Domestos.
Chirton Clean Gutters.
Expel Bio.
Deboucher Active.
Mr. Muscle granules.

Household folk remedies

Time-tested and user-tested products are also able to eliminate sewer odors in the bath.

For this purpose, ordinary food salt is poured into the pipelines, which should be washed off after a quarter of an hour with an abundant amount of running water.
A solution made from 1 tbsp will be a quite worthy substitute for salt. l of caustic soda and 500 ml of boiling water. The resulting bubbling mixture is poured into the drain pipe.
Also, for cleaning, you can pour a small amount of baking soda into the pipe, then pour 9% table vinegar, plug the hole and open hot water after a quarter of an hour.

Elimination of breakdowns

In some cases, defects in the drainage system and a violation of the integrity of the sewage system become the cause of the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the room.

The problem can also be caused by improper joining of tubular elements. Gurgling noise inside the structure indicates a problem with the water seal or vacuum inside the riser.

You also need to make sure that the length and diameter of the pipes that drain the water and the level of their slope are selected correctly. All identified defects should be eliminated as soon as possible.

Sewer bath systems, as a rule, include pits, shambos, as well as drainage wells and other elements that settle and purify water, therefore, the failure of even one unit can cause unpleasant odors to appear in the room.

Where does the unpleasant smell come from in a steam room in a steam bath or sauna? The answer to this question is both clear and unexpected. This oven smells like a stone. It may or may not smell. Why? Experts' conclusions: I will add a little gag and put in 5 kopecks on this topic, because I have never heard from people who went to the bathhouse with me (including the public one) that they smell an unpleasant smell of carbon monoxide. I started with this question, so as not to return to it.

Carbon monoxide - does not smell, so you can smell anything but the smell of carbon monoxide.

As a rule, this is due to poor draft into the pipe from the furnace, or worse, the presence of holes in the structure of the pipe or furnace.

Although this is doubtful. Even in the presence of holes directly in the stove, due to the traction force in the chimney, air from the steam room is drawn into these holes, and not pushed out of them. Because there is a reduced pressure in the combustion zone, which sucks in air not only through the blower, but also through these holes.

The situation is more complicated with the unpleasant smell in the steam room of a bath, which appears during steam procedures or at the stage of preparing a bath. It looks like this: before you melt the stove - there is no smell, but immediately after kindling the smell appears. What reasons?

Why does an unpleasant smell appear in the steam room in the bath?

This happens for the following reasons:

bad stone, which inside contains inclusions of minerals and salts with the "sulfur" component. It is the reason and will spoil your mood for a long time - until you simply replace the stone in the stove. This is especially true - loose rocks of independently collected stone.
the use of paints and varnishes and finishing materials not intended for high temperatures (their smell is different from others and its nature is immediately clear)
heated air exhibits weak odors more strongly (enter the steam room clean ...)
the second reason is the most tricky and not always evident. The symptoms of a bad smell look like this:

You buy, for example, a certified talcochlorite stone and put it around your stove with a grid from the outside, covering all the sides of the steel stove. Every week you take a steam bath, water the stone with oil solutions and herbal infusions, and then you start to notice. that the unpleasant smell in the bath increases. What's the matter? - you make a claim to the seller of the stone. And he just has nothing to do with it. The mode in which you use the stone is very important.

Talcochlorite is good for using in batch ovens. Those. where the stone is licked by fire directly, and not heated through the sides of the steel furnace. A characteristic feature of talcochlorite at high temperatures is to form a strong crust resistant to an aggressive environment on the surface. It is thanks to her that it does not crumble and withstands many cycles of fire exposure.

When the stone is located outside the firebox, the temperature of heating the stone is unlikely to exceed 300 degrees and a protective crust does not form. The stone absorbs moisture well with low evaporation. And the water contains the smallest particles of herbs and roots, berries - other organic matter, which I saturate solutions and infusions. Weakly heated stone and particles of its dust absorb this organic matter. So it provokes an unpleasant odor the next time the stones are heated. Getting on the hot metal of the bottom of the furnace at a high temperature, particles of biomass begin to burn and smolder and give off an odor.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to have a very high temperature of the stone so that these particles do not have time to be absorbed or settle during evaporation, or use only oils that give completely transparent solutions for bath procedures.

As you can see, the presence of a certified and "correct" stone does not always save you from unpleasant odors in the steam room and sauna.

Pay attention to the flowability of your stone. Under thermal action, stone dust is released from the stone and scatters - this is the first sign that an unpleasant odor may soon appear. But if you are not lazy and move the stone once every six months, this dust can be removed from the bottom of the heater's firebox.

Protection against unpleasant odors in the bath

In a way, I also use such a preventive method of protecting the stone from precipitation of plant residues - a dense canvas bag in which I insist herbs. The water has a color, but the remains of chamomile, mint and other herbs do not float in it, which crumbles and sometimes turns into dust.

So I prevent that an unpleasant smell does not appear in the steam room in a bath or sauna. Hope. These simple tips will help you get only the most pleasant sensations from steam and bath procedures. I try to carry out aromatization of the steam room - by laying out brooms and branches of herbs directly on the shelves. Enjoy your steam, friends!

Other Causes of Bad Sauna Stove Smells

remnants of factory unfired paint
factory lubrication inside the pipes
not completely removed and burning protective film from scratches from ovens with a stainless convector
use of mineral and stone wool instead of asbestos and other cords for sealing chimney joints
poor-quality filling of chimney-sandwiches
smoldering broom leaves fallen between the stones of the stove
the presence of mold under the upholstery of the steam room and poor drying

Secret life hacks for bath attendants: in stoves with steam generators on the sides of the walls of the furnaces in the form of plates, lay stones so that dust from them does not fall into the chutes. removing it from there is very difficult and it is necessary to disassemble the convector.

Video about the first kiln firing before operation