Taking a steam bath (Russian or Finnish dry bath) is always good! The famous saying "Enjoy your steam!" indicates that during the stay in the steam room, the body is cleansed of toxins and toxins, which contributes to good ventilation of the lungs, excellent heart function and generally a good mood. But only if the room is equipped correctly and does not cause discomfort to the person in the bathhouse with its imperfections.
One of the common problems in a sauna or steam room is the lack of natural floor ventilation, which is easy to do. As a result, the wood is in a constant wet state, placing fungus and mold on its surfaces. Such air in the steam room turns from healing to sickness. And if we include here also the presence of carbon dioxide, which was formed as a result of the presence of several people on the shelves of the steam room. Sheer self-harm is obtained, but not healing procedures.
Therefore, if you want to equip your own bathhouse with your own hands and enjoy it with friends for the benefit of the body, then listen to the recommendations of experts and do everything correctly.
Important: according to the established standards, the ventilation of the bath room should be carried out at least 3-5 times in one hour. Therefore, ventilation is important.
What is floor ventilation in a bath for?
Considering that the steam room is a room with a constant high level of humidity, the presence of natural floor ventilation here is responsible for the following working moments of the bath:
- Good exchange of air masses in the steam room. That is, the steam in the bath can mix with oxygen, thereby distributing the optimal temperature in the room along its entire perimeter.
- Excellent ventilation of the floor and steam room after taking bath procedures. The room is ventilated and sufficiently saturated with fresh air.
- And the most important thing is to dry all wooden surfaces (including the floor), which prevents the appearance of fungus. This, in turn, extends the life of all wood flooring in the steam room. By the way, this applies primarily to the Russian bath, which is exposed to increased moisture on all wooden surfaces.
Steam room ventilation requirements
- In the Russian and Finnish baths, the floor ventilation system should help maintain the optimal temperature in the steam room and not reduce its level due to the influx of air masses.
- Floor ventilation in Russian and Finnish saunas is designed to ensure the correct mixing of air masses.
- In addition, the ventilation system should easily remove exhaust and carbon dioxide-saturated air from the room, which can be done independently.
Most often, in the Russian bath, free laying of logs is used in the lower part of the room to create natural ventilation of the room and floor. That is, small gaps are left between the beams, which play the role of a natural convector. In addition, it is in the Russian bath that it is customary to completely ventilate and dry the room by opening the doors and a window located on the opposite wall of the steam room. However, all this is a primitive method. We will teach you how to make ventilation in the bathhouse quickly and efficiently with your own hands.
Bath ventilation device
For the axiom of a good ventilation system in the steam room, we take ventilation in the floor area in the bath. This option is considered the most correct, since air masses will move exclusively at the bottom of the room, which will avoid a draft that is harmful to those who have a rest in the steam room. In addition, the ventilation of the floors in the steam room will facilitate a quick and unimpeded outflow of water and a good drying of the wooden flooring. Thus, the likelihood of the formation of fungus and rotting of the boards is excluded.
- In order to do the ventilation of the floors in the bathhouse with your own hands, you need to bring a sewer pipe to the steam room at the stage of construction of the steam room, which will have a slope towards the drain pit. The underground floor itself in the future steam room must be filled with a cement screed, also with a slope towards the drain pipe. And on the screed, form pedestals from cement mortar or brick. They will act as props for the floor log.
- In the foundation, directly under the future flooring with our own hands, we form two ventilation holes located on opposite walls. But do not equip them directly opposite each other. The angle of movement of air masses under the floor should not be straight, but as ornate as possible. We close the ventilation holes with vents with valves. Subsequently, the speed and flow of ventilation under the floor of the bath can be adjusted depending on the season outside the window.
For your information: if you do not want to suffer with the installation of the drain pipe or the bath is already standing, but there is no floor ventilation, then you can simply drill holes in the concrete base to the earthen soil. This will play the role of a kind of drainage, which will divert water directly into the ground.
- As jumpers for laying a ventilated floor in a bath with your own hands, you can use pipes or wooden beams with a section of 110x60 or 150x80 (depending on the distance between them).
- On top of the log with our own hands, we lay processed and polished boards. Preferably oak. They are distinguished by their increased resistance to moisture.
Important: when laying wood flooring, leave a gap of about 7-8 mm between the boards. This will ensure a free outflow of water from the steam room.
How underfloor ventilation will work
The operation of such a do-it-yourself ventilation system will be quite simple:
- All streams of water entering the floor seep through the gaps left and go either into a drain in the cement floor or into a drain.
- The two vents can be opened halfway or fully during summertime, providing a constant flow of dry air into the subfloor, thereby drying out the space. In cold seasons, the valves open depending on the temperature outside the window and the presence of people in the steam room.
Important: do not forget to cover the ventilation holes, equipped with your own hands in the underground, with gratings. They will protect you from the accidental visit of rodents.
The ventilation system in the steam room is one of the most important components of a comfortable reception of water procedures and a pleasant pastime. If in a living space its main task is to provide the space with fresh air, then in a bath it not only removes excess moisture, but also regulates the temperature regime. In some cases, it may be necessary to quickly cool the steam room (if the procedures are taken by overweight people or children). How to make ventilation in the bath so that it sets the required temperature in a few minutes?
Today's article is devoted to such an important issue.
- 1. For high-quality connection of air streams. Natural convection is not able to balance the temperature regime over the entire area. At the walls - the same meanings, at the ceiling - others, and at the floor - the third. The difference can reach 10-20 ° С. In such conditions, it is not very pleasant to take any water procedures.
- 2. To ensure the influx of masses from outside. For a sauna, where there is only 1 person, and no longer than 25 minutes, forced ventilation is not required. The oxygen supply is sufficient. Otherwise, fresh air is essential.
- the hood is done exclusively at the top;
- air intake holes - at the bottom of the walls;
- ventilation ducts are located diagonally.
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Air exchange device for a bath: rules and recommendations
The ventilation device in the bath depends on the design features and architecture of the building. No special hole is required in cases where there are small gaps in the floor for draining the liquid. Obviously, there will be enough of them to supply the supply air.
Most of the steam rooms are equipped with small windows. In the open state, they are delegated the role of the simplest device for air exchange. An effective way to change air is to adjust the position of the gate. But this rule is true only in cases where the furnace is in a steam room.
Experts state that the listed options are the most affordable and effective in organizing the ventilation system in the bath. But what to do in cases where air does not penetrate from the underground, due to the absence of cracks, and the firebox is in the next room? I would like to dwell on such paired rooms in more detail. So, do you need ventilation in the steam room and why exactly?
The most difficult cases arise with the irresistible desire of negligent developers to realize the impossible. In some, the ventilation of the steam room is so powerful that the room simply does not warm up. Others have no corresponding system at all. There can be only one advice here - do not go to extremes!
Competently implemented ventilation in a Russian bath, which takes into account the regulatory requirements and features of each room, is inexpensive, and the benefits from it are enormous. The main task is to take into account all the nuances: wall thickness, material, cladding, etc.
If air exchange is not provided in principle, there is a high risk of oxygen starvation. In combination with high humidity and temperature, people can even get poisoned by gases. Excessive performance can lead to more prolonged heating of the room. Fresh air is sent in very quickly, the floor remains constantly cold.
Bath ventilation
Where is the air exchange system installed?
Experts say that supply solutions are arranged in 2 zones: under wooden loungers or behind the base of the stove. Let's consider these options in more detail.
The World Wide Web contains a huge number of schemes for the movement of air masses, but in most cases they are implemented by amateurs and do not deserve any attention. Professionals recommend just a couple of conditions:
Such solutions will be sufficient for good oxygen circulation. Any other reasoning on this matter is the fruit of a sick fantasy, nothing more. The corresponding valves can be located at different levels, in fact, as well as the holes for the removal of air masses.
Ventilation of the bath in the form of a small hole in the ceiling is used exclusively upon completion of water procedures, when it is necessary to completely ventilate the room. As for the second opening, it is advisable to arrange it 40 cm lower. The optimal period of use is during the washing process.
Advice! Some novice builders, when answering the question of how to make ventilation in the steam room, advise to connect the adjacent openings of the system into separate internal air ducts. Then 2-3 valves are mounted. This complication does not in any way increase the comfort when taking water procedures. Don't experiment - simplicity is our everything!
A well-organized air exchange system for a bath is the simplest one, in which there are no common channels under the casing. The optimal solution to the issue is to make several holes for each of the walls located in different rooms and place small tubular elements in them. Lattice valves can be used as plugs. This option is successfully used both in the case of a traditional Russian bath and exclusive steam rooms.
Natural air exchange
One of the most affordable options for organizing ventilation in chopped baths. The main advantages are efficiency, safety, simplicity and minimal cost. The corresponding holes are placed taking into account the location of the stove, the material from which the building is made, the number of shelves.
A general recommendation will help to make ventilation correctly - the recesses should be located at different heights - it is enough to raise the inlet opening from the floor by only 0.2 m, and the outlet - 0.25 m below the ceiling. When choosing, it is necessary to take into account their position not only inside the building, but also near the outer walls. We do not recommend violating the facade composition of the object.
As for the size of the holes for natural ventilation in the bath, they are chosen in the range from 300 to 400 cm2. If you are in doubt about a specific meaning, it is better to stay with the larger version. An incorrect system can lead to excessively fast air exchange, and as a consequence, cooling in the steam room. In this case, you cannot do without dampers.
Advice! Ventilation in a steam room or bath will look aesthetically pleasing if the system openings are covered with decorative grilles.
Forced ventilation
Forced ventilation in a bath is more difficult from the point of view of independent implementation, since it involves the installation of special electrical equipment. Often, for competent implementation, drawings, individual calculations of the power of the exhaust fan, intake, etc. are required. During the installation process, you will have to solve the problem associated with the special microclimate of the steam room.
Electrical equipment is incompatible with high air humidity, severe temperature conditions. For these purposes, it is better to use the fans installed in a protected case. To make ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands as high-quality and safe as possible, we recommend that you study the relevant instructions, instructions and recommendations of the PUE. Preliminary theoretical training is the key to successful endeavors.
Forced ventilation of the steam room allows you to flexibly adjust the input parameters of the rate of renewal of air masses in the room. It does not depend on the environment, weather. The forced ventilation of the floor in the bath has also proven itself superbly. It remains effective regardless of the strength and direction of the wind.
Option of forced ventilation in the bath (video)
Bath ventilation
We make the system with our own hands
So, the main question - do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath - how to implement it, what should it be? First of all, do not rush and chop off the shoulder. In the second - carefully study the source data. In most buildings, holes and cracks in the floor, doors and windows are simply not provided. For a modern Russian bath, this is a typical situation.
The corresponding holes must be made with your own hands. Do-it-yourself ventilation in a sauna should include recesses for the intake and removal of air masses. Constructed according to traditional standards, the building does not include external and internal cladding, since the main building material is sawn timber.
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The correct implementation of the appropriate design improves the operational characteristics of the facility and ensures a high level of safety and comfort. Properly designed ventilation will help extend the life of the building. After reading this article, you will find out if ventilation is needed in the bath, you can create the necessary structure with your own hands. Here you will find information about materials and individual components, assembly and construction technologies. Professional advice will help eliminate mistakes and cut costs.
Good ventilation is one of the most important components of a good sauna.
To accurately determine the parameters of the project, it is necessary to clarify its purpose. Creation for a bath allows you to solve the following practical problems:
- an inflow of fresh air is provided;
- combustion products, carbon dioxide, other harmful substances are removed;
- destructive processes of decay and corrosion are prevented.
Of course, the operation of this system should not worsen other consumer characteristics of the building. For example, if the intake of cold air is excessive, the cost of maintaining a high temperature will increase.
This checklist will help you figure out how to make ventilation in such a way as not to miss important points:
- Determine the air path (duct and indoor).
- Find out how to arrange ventilation in different rooms of the building.
- It is necessary to take into account the combined effect of ventilation and heating, the features of the wall materials and other characteristics of the building.
- It is necessary to find out what components and finished products are useful for creating an effective modern ventilation system.
How high-quality ventilation works in a bath: scheme and device, features of different rooms
For electrical wiring, a suitable cable is used, which provides reliable insulation even when immersed in liquid. The switch is installed in a recreation room, or in another room with a normal humidity level.
For ventilation in the bath sink, you can use a small window or a special channel. In any case, it is necessary to configure the system in such a way as to exclude drafts. It is possible to combine the supply parts here and in the steam room to increase the air temperature, to ensure ventilation of the wooden flooring.
Ventilation design in the dressing room
In this room, the organization of fresh air access does not differ from a similar system in an ordinary living room. The use of natural and forced ventilation in various combinations is available. It must be remembered that hypothermia of the body provokes the occurrence of colds and other diseases.
For your information! Log houses have special features. They create comfortable temperature conditions in rooms without special technical means due to the natural micro-ventilation of the walls. For intensive ventilation, you can open doors and windows.
Related article:
In a separate publication, you will learn about the most successful layouts of baths with an extension in the form of a veranda or terrace.
How to properly ventilate a bath: differences in buildings made of different materials
In this section, the architectural features of the structure are studied in detail. Proper ventilation in the bath should not adversely affect structural parts. Moreover, it creates favorable conditions for extending the service life without major repairs. In order not to make mistakes and not to commit unnecessary actions, the corresponding system must be created at the design stage. The example with a concrete foundation illustrates the convenience of installing holes using embedded parts. Drilling them into a frozen block will be difficult.
Frame construction
The gaps between the frame elements are filled with mineral wool. It is covered with plastic wrap to prevent moisture ingress. Outside - install lining, with painting, other topcoats.
Such a design can be created quickly, with minimal cost. For a light structure, a strong foundation is not needed. The multi-layer wall structure has low thermal conductivity, which reduces operating costs. In order not to violate their tightness, the ventilation channels in the frame bath are installed in advance, together with the installation of the structural elements.
For your information! If we use foamed polyurethane boards, the cost of the project will increase slightly. But in this case, no special precautions are needed. The insulating properties of these materials do not deteriorate in high humidity conditions.
Nuances that are taken into account when equipping a log house
To correctly determine the ventilation parameters in a wooden bath, the following features must be taken into account:
- Buildings made from these materials are naturally ventilated. But its performance is not enough for a bath.
- The supply and exhaust systems are designed so as to ensure rapid removal of moisture after the completion of a session of wellness procedures.
- If forced ventilation is selected, the wiring will be carried out taking into account the proximity of combustible materials. The rules of specialized regulations should be followed exactly.
- Treatment with anti-rotting agents and other chemicals is performed carefully in order to exclude them from entering the atmosphere of the premises. It is advisable not to use potentially hazardous substances to create decorative and protective coatings in washing and steam rooms.
For your information! Such buildings are installed on a strip foundation. The base of the floor is made of concrete. Holes in these elements are created at the stage of grouting.
Related article:
In a separate publication you will find interesting ideas for decorating steam rooms and rest rooms, as well as learn the main stages of installation.
Correct installation of ventilation in a brick house
Structures made of these materials are highly resistant to various external influences. They are able to withstand heavy loads without damage. They are not destroyed by temperature and humidity changes, harmful insects and microorganisms. In the absence of flammability, no special measures are needed when installing power supply routes.
In order not to use such heavy operations, the necessary passes are made during the masonry process. For the exact execution of work, marks are made in the design documentation. At the stage of project preparation, the parameters and lines of installation of power grids are determined.
Application of bastu for a bath: diagram, operation
This technology has been used in Sweden for hundreds of years. It provides efficient ventilation of rooms without electric drives. An additional advantage is the economical consumption of thermal energy.
The figure shows a system for two rooms. In the steam room, air is supplied to the space under the oven. With the help of a special casing, the basic principle of the technology is realized: "inverted glass". The heated air flow under pressure enters the rooms. Outlet ducts - as in the standard version, through ducts, with a fence from the lower parts of the rooms. The use of ventilation bastu in a Russian bath will allow you to quickly dry the floors. Note the separate inflow installed in the break room. With the help of a metered supply of cold / warm air, it is possible to maintain comfortable temperature conditions at any time of the year.
Ventilation device in the bath: selection and correct use of the main components of the structure
Before proceeding to the study of individual elements, it should be noted the principles of operation of different types of ventilation:
When choosing forced ventilation, it is necessary to correctly use the appropriate electrically driven technology.
Window in the bath: where to locate, what are the requirements for materials
When choosing suitable products, the climatic conditions in the region are taken into account. For the northern regions, triple glass units are installed with good insulating characteristics. If plastic frames are purchased, check the number of cameras.
To eliminate fogging, you can use the data in the following table. The values in it correspond to the outside temperature at which droplets of moisture condense on the inside of the glasses:
| Indoor temperature, ° C | Humidity, % | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 20 | 30 | 40 | 60 | 80 | 100 | |
| 0 | -20 | -15 | -12 | -6,9 | -3,1 | 0 |
| 5 | -15,8 | -11 | -7,5 | -2,2 | 1,8 | 4,8 |
| 10 | -11,8 | -6,8 | -2,8 | 2,7 | 6,8 | 10,1 |
| 15 | -7,6 | -2,5 | -1,4 | 7,4 | 11,7 | 15,8 |
| 20 | -3,7 | 1,8 | 5,9 | 11,8 | 16,3 | 20,1 |
| 25 | -0,4 | 6,1 | 10,4 | 16,6 | 21,2 | 24,8 |
When choosing an installation site, the dimensions of the unit are entered in the opening with the following gaps:
- bottom: from 40 to 60 mm;
- top: 15 to 25 mm;
- on the sides: from 15 to 25 mm.
It is necessary to take into account the significant change in the size of the opening in the wooden structure. To prevent damage to the frame, special damping elements are installed. In brick buildings, these precautions are not necessary. Free opening of the leaves must be ensured. If necessary, install other curtains from the inside.
For your information! To avoid heat damage and to prevent a deterioration in the composition of the atmosphere, windows are not installed in the steam room.
Video: do-it-yourself window installation technology in the bath
Suitable fan parameters
The forced system is installed with a large area of \ u200b \ u200bthe premises. It will be needed in a building made of bricks, or other materials that do not allow air to pass through.
When choosing a fan for a bath, check the following parameters:
- To calculate the productivity, multiply by 5. The stock (20-40%) is added taking into account the characteristics of a particular room.
- The casings and impellers of high-quality specialized equipment are made of polymers (composite materials) that are resistant to high temperatures and ultraviolet radiation.
- Rubber gaskets reduce noise and the negative impact of vibration on the integrity of the structure.
- The shaft is mounted on durable ball bearings, which perform their functions fully without lubrication and other routine procedures.
- All electrical components are reliably protected from moisture.
- When equipped, it prevents air movement in the opposite direction when the equipment is turned off.
The video below explains the DIY fan installation process. This instruction can be used for the installation of equipment in a bath, bathroom, toilet.
Varieties of valves for ventilation ducts
The back ventilation valve for the bath does not let the cold air outside. Similar phenomena can occur, for example, in strong winds. The figure shows that the damper is moved by the counterweight. There are no electric drives or other complex assemblies here, which explains the relatively low cost.
Valves are selected taking into account different needs:
- The corresponding modifications are designed for vertical or horizontal installation.
- They produce special products for round and square air ducts.
- To increase resistance to corrosion processes, metal valves are coated with a zinc layer.
- Some models are specially designed to work with a fan.
Installing a vent in the bath
The optimal air path helps to determine the correct installation parameters for the inlet and outlet. If the air vents in the bath are set at the same level, the required effect of uniform heating will not be obtained. The stream will be directed along the shortest path, creating a draft. It is also recommended to consider the following points when planning:
Nice, high temperature resistant diffusers
Article
We have already repeatedly addressed the topic of bath ventilation, but these were materials regarding its theoretical part.
This article corrects the preponderance of theory and is entirely devoted to the practical issues of ventilation in the bath.
How to properly ventilate the bath: planning during the construction phase
Indeed, there are far from isolated cases of construction of baths without any kind of ventilation. At first glance, it seems that the train has already left. However, in fact, there is always the opportunity to fix everything, however, you have to come to terms with the fact that this will cost a pretty penny. It is especially difficult to make forgotten ventilation in a brick bath, where ventilation ducts are laid in the walls at the construction stage. But in other cases, the task is not easy.
But what does it mean to plan during the construction phase? First of all, we are talking about the layout of the ventilation holes and channels by which they are connected to the street or adjacent rooms (depending on the choice). Based on this scheme, the volume of premises and standards, the diameter of the pipes is calculated, which ensures the necessary gas exchange in each of the bath rooms: steam room, washing room, rest room, dressing room, toilet. If ventilation is forced, then the power of the fans is calculated.
If the bath has already been built
Take, as an example, an ordinary Russian bathhouse, in which they forgot to make ventilation holes. In principle, if there are windows, and the furnace firebox is located inside the steam room, then you can do without drilling holes at all. But you will have to constantly resort to volley ventilation and use the furnace draft as a ventilation one.
This will fix the problem in general, but there are drawbacks to be aware of:
- By opening windows and doors, we do not so much reduce the temperature in the room as we distill the steam to other rooms (instead of the street from which the inflow comes from, it goes inward and condensation falls out there), and then the steam comes out, and the temperature only dropped a little and will recover in a short time.
- To use the stove draft, you still have to make holes, but only in the lower part of the steam room door. Then the inflow from the neighboring premises will flow through it, which, in turn, will pull through the cracks from the street.
To regulate ventilation with the help of a stove, a gate and stove doors are used. If it is necessary to increase the air exchange, it is enough just to open the damper and the firebox doors all the way. To reduce it, the gate is covered, but not completely, because closed with unburned wood is a guarantee of carbon monoxide poisoning.
by the way, the problem of forgotten ventilation in a bath made of any material is solved by the described methods. They cannot completely replace the supply and exhaust ventilation, but they do not have to worry about making holes in the walls.
If this ventilation is not enough, you will have to drill the wall. But more on that below.
Device, diagrams: how to make ventilation in the bath
There are a number of materials included in other articles, therefore, in order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest that you follow the links below - there you will find a lot of useful information on a topic of interest:
Do-it-yourself sauna ventilation: a step-by-step guide
Now let's proceed to the analysis of the points that make up the creation of bath ventilation with our own hands, let's call it a step-by-step guide.
Choosing a scheme
In terms of choosing a scheme, the answer to the question "how to make ventilation in a bath correctly" is ambiguous, since there are different schemes. Physics says that the inlet should be located below the exhaust. What exactly will be the difference in height between them is up to you. Despite the fact that in many sources it is proposed to make an exhaust hole under the ceiling (but in no case on the ceiling, so as not to spoil the attic with condensation), there is a more advanced scheme, in which there are two inside exhaust ports for one exhaust outlet... It's simple: a pipe with two holes is placed - lower behind the middle shelf and under the ceiling, and this pipe has only one exit to the street.
The schemes also differ in which walls to make the hood on. Most often, there are no questions with the supply - it is done under the stove, and the extract is done on the opposite, and on the same walls, and with access to the street, and to an adjacent room.
Choose the optimal ventilation path
It's just that calculations are made only for forced ventilation. For a natural one, many factors have to be taken into account, in particular, the strength and direction of the winds that usually blow in this area. Why is this necessary? Take the case where the exhaust vent is facing the same side as the strong wind blows. And it turns out that the inflow strives to get into the exhaust hole because of this. Then the supply air will also "turn around" in the opposite direction. This is called reverse thrust or overturning thrust.
In order to avoid this, the ventilation ducts can be lengthened in order to lead in the right direction, and even made with turns, which, by the way, reduce the speed of air movement.
The idea is simple: it is better to orient the inlet of the inflow to the side from which the wind often blows, and the outlet of the hood - on the opposite side or through the roof along a high pipe.
ADVICE! Instead of making ventilation ducts with knees, it is better to immediately make forced ventilation.
By the way, not every wall will accept the ventilation duct well in its thickness. It is best not to do this in outer block walls. There, all ventilation is carried out along the inner walls and partitions, often on top of the walls.
How to make a hole in the wall
This point is discussed in great detail later.
Installation of pipes and grates
Galvanized pipes can be used as an air duct.
ATTENTION! If you take plastic ones, pay attention to their temperature range so that the steam room does not spoil them.
Ventilation in the dressing room
The dressing room should be a warm room with fresh air, in which it is comfortable to be after bath procedures. Therefore, it is usually equipped with only one ventilation hole - an exhaust hood. And to speed up the process of gas exchange, a fan is often installed on this hood. The exhaust hole itself is located opposite the steam room at a height of half a meter. It is drilled in an accessible way in the wall, a plug is placed on it on one side, and a grate or deflector on the other. In the case of forced ventilation, there is a fan inside, connected according to the instructions supplied with the device.
But if the furnace of the stove is not in the steam room, but in the dressing room, you will have to make sure that fresh air comes to the stove from the street. For this, a ventilation duct is equipped, most likely made of galvanized steel, which passes under the finished floor and delivers fresh air directly to the oven door. The installation of this channel is carried out before the end of the work with the floor. The pipe of the calculated diameter is inserted at one end into a hole in the wall, where it is fixed with foam and closed with a grill, and on the other side it is led out to the furnace and supplied with an adjustable plug.
How to make ventilation in the steam room of a bath
The ventilation mode of the steam room differs from other rooms of the bath in the same way as the steam room itself differs from them in its extremeness. In the Russian bathhouse, the ventilation is shut off for a while while you are steaming. But at the same time, it is extremely important. to saturate the steam room with oxygen, uniform heating, distribution of air flows.
More detailed information on this topic can be found in articles and in general. In particular, among the well-proven methods of ventilation of this room, one can call bastu ventilation. But you can also read about it in the mentioned articles.
Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room
Steam room ventilation schemes can also be found in. As for the stages of self-assembly of air ducts, they are no different from those given above, so now we will consider in detail the method of drilling holes in the walls from a log house or timber, as well as from blocks.
How to make a hole in the wall of a log house
- Before you start you need to know place and size the future hole, which is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe, because you still have to wrap the pipe with a heat insulator. After that, the markup is done. (It is advisable at this moment to have both pipes and grates on hand so that the process can be controlled through them.)
- A drill for wood, the length of which must be greater than the thickness of the wall with the entire "pie", if any, a through hole is drilled in the center of the marking.
- After that, from the outside of the wall a circle of the required diameter is drawn with a drilled hole in the center.
- External and internal wall trim is neatly cut in a circle, freeing the log wall.
- The same drill is used to make holes in the log around the entire circumference marked circle. And the closer they are to each other, the easier it is to remove the inner fragment later. Observe the perpendicularity of the drill to the plane of the wall.
- The chisel and chisel will help remove jumpers between the drilled holes. The work should be done both inside and outside the bath.
- Taking out the middle part, do not line up the edges- it's too much.
Useful video
And here in the video, the same is done using a drill and a crown:
How to make a hole in a block wall
The method for a block wall is exactly the same as described above, except that a concrete drill is taken (you can use a bit instead). By the way, the blocks are very soft, the main thing is not to collide with the metal (reinforcing mesh, pins, fastening fittings of openings). If this happens, you will need special pliers (hydraulic).
IMPORTANT! There is a likelihood of colliding with metal when drilling a log house - there are pins under the ceiling that hold the Mauerplate, so the pincers should be rented in advance.
As for air ducts, plugs and valves, all of this is purchased in stores. The air duct is most often a galvanized pipe (round, square or rectangular in cross-section), which must be insulated (wrapped with insulation) and sealed with foam so that condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet.
Plugs and dampers are purchased for the required diameter. It is better to take wooden ones, because the plastic in the steam room will emit carcinogens that we do not need, and the metal will burn in the heated steam room. As for the schemes, we have already given links to them.
Useful video
It shows how to use a drill to make a square hole in the wall.
Well, that's all that we could tell you about how to make ventilation in a bath. We can only wish you success in the implementation of our plans. Do-it-yourself ventilation in a bath is a difficult business, but feasible for many. We hope that you have planned everything well and to the end, and in the future you will not have to regret either the wasted time or the money invested.
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State norms for ventilation of premises are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003, the document establishes the minimum frequency of air exchange in rooms, depending on their purpose and features of use. In living quarters, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.
SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Download file
For a bath, ventilation tasks become more complicated, it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (quick drying of wooden structures is ensured) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are times when in the steam room it is necessary to quickly lower the temperature before accepting procedures for young children, the elderly or large people. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bath cools down on its own. With the help of ventilation of the room, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits during the entire stay of people in it.
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What are the types of ventilation and the method of calculating them
Ventilation can only exist when there is an inflow of fresh air into the room and an outflow of used air. You can often find the concept of "supply" or "exhaust" ventilation. These are not entirely correct concepts, there cannot be only supply or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow and exhaust ventilation. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the inflow or exhaust of the exhaust air is carried out forcibly, and, accordingly, the removal or intake of fresh air occurs in a natural way.
Supply and exhaust ventilation
When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data take into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special conditions in them in terms of air parameters, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, state regulations establish the frequency of air replacement within an hour, it can vary from 1 ÷ 2 to ten or more.
Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account the weather conditions and the climatic zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply / extract air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics for each type of ventilation, we will consider them in more detail.
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General rules for ventilation in the bath
The principles of ventilation in a bathhouse largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can be supplied through the same slots, there is no need to make a special hole.
Quite often, small windows are installed in the bath - when they are opened, they "turn" into exhaust holes. In addition, if the furnace is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the gate, adjust the frequency of air changes.
Photo - furnace firebox and open door for ventilation of the room
These are the simplest options for the steam room (by the way, both the most effective and low-cost), but there are cases when the furnace is located in another room, there are no windows, and the floors are solid without cracks. We will focus on such a bath in our article. Why do you need to do ventilation in the bath?
- For better air mixing throughout the volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature in height, the difference in indicators under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of taking water procedures.
- For fresh air supply. If one person is steaming in the steam room, and the residence time does not exceed 20-30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people are steaming in the steam room for a long time at the same time, then the flow of fresh air becomes mandatory.
Quite often, developers go to two extremes: in order to save heat, they refuse ventilation at all or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences, ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is quite impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account as much as possible the characteristics of the premises, the requirements for the temperature in the steam room, the materials for the manufacture of walls and cladding.
In the case of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation and, if the furnace is located directly in the steam room, increase the risks of carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time is significantly increased, warm air is quickly removed from the room. But this is not all the problem - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of catching colds.
Uncontrolled ventilation can lead to cold floors
The inflow of fresh air in the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.
There are many patterns of air movement on the Internet, most of them are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Follow only two conditions: air flow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of ducts along the diagonal of the room.
This is sufficient to ensure normal air circulation and mixing. Everything else is speculation about nothing, they can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, make it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two different-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The air outlet openings are located at different heights.
One under the very ceiling, is used only for complete ventilation of the bath after the end of water procedures. The third is done 30 ÷ 40 centimeters lower than the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them to each other with internal air ducts, install several regulating dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of being in the steam room.
A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bath, they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts are used to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter which one is natural or forced. This is quite justified from both technological and economic points of view.
What other rooms can be connected with ventilation ducts to the steam room? Weird question. Then why make intricate ducts underneath the wall cladding? Isn't it easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grates with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will tell you about a real, effective, simple and cheap method of ventilation, we will not lay any channels anywhere. This is a versatile option, perfect for both "budget" and expensive exclusive couples.
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Video - Ventilation in the bath
Natural ventilation of the bath
The most accepted option for most baths, the lowest in cost and safety, and quite effective. The specific locations of the ventilation openings should be taken taking into account the size of the premises, the location of the shelves, the stove and the building material. The general rule is that the holes should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20 ÷ 30 cm from the ceiling. When selecting holes, consider where the holes will be located on the outer walls. It is advisable that they do not stand out too much on the facade walls.
The dimensions of the holes are about 300 ÷ 400 cm2, it is better to make them larger than smaller. If the air exchange is too fast, leading to a decrease in the temperature in the steam room, the ducts should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles, they can be purchased in specialized stores or made on your own.
We wrote more about this type of ventilation in the article “. We will tell you how you can organize natural ventilation, how to calculate and make ventilation openings.
It complicates the ventilation system a little; installation of electrical equipment is required. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have reliable protection of the case from moisture, during connection, you should unquestioningly follow the recommendations of the PUE. And in order to comply, you need to know them.
Forced ventilation - elements
The advantages of forced ventilation are that the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated, the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is directed at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same efficiency in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.
How to calculate forced ventilation in a bath and what is it like? How to choose fans? We have answered all these questions in the article “. There you will also find detailed step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation and professional advice.
How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands
Initial data. The architectural features of the bath do not provide for the flow of air through the cracks in the floor, doors, window or furnace firebox. It is necessary to make holes for both inlet and outlet of air. There is no inner and outer wall cladding, the bathhouse is built of sawn timber.
Step 1. Determine the location of the input and output channels.
We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The outlet duct is diagonally located under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the volume of the room. In addition, the intake air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an exit hole in the ceiling. We are opponents of such a decision, humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire rafter system.
Step 2. Purchase or make your own grates and valves.
They can be of various sizes and geometries: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of the future cladding of external and internal walls, think over how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.
Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable clearances, only they will be able to provide smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.
And one more thing - on the outside of the bath, the holes should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as tight as possible, to prevent moisture from rain or snow from getting on the crowns of the log house.
Step 3. Punch holes in the walls.
The most time consuming operation, you will have to work manually. Previously, in the marked places, you need to drill holes around the perimeter. The more densely they are located to each other, the easier it is then to gouge the wood. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, chisel and hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the remaining bars of the bar between the holes. Ventilation holes should be made 1-2 cm wider around the perimeter than the pipe to be inserted. The fact is that then this pipe must be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensation on wooden structures.
Use only a sharp chisel and chisel - the timber will have to be cut across the grain, which is quite difficult. If the thickness of the bar is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bath, and the other half from the outside. If you have a lot of experience with a gasoline saw, you can cut the hole. But we immediately warn you that working in such conditions with a gasoline saw is very dangerous. You will have to cut with the end of the bar, while grabbing the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This way of using the saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.
If there is a need to separate the inlet in the wall and in the bath, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable to use not round pipes, but rectangular ones, they take up less space under the cladding of the inner walls of the steam room.
Be sure to seal the joints of the knee and pipe with silicone and wrap with tape for reliability.
Metallized adhesive tape
Step 4. Lay foil or plastic wrap and mineral wool around the perimeter of the holes, the wool layer should be dense, without gaps. The edges of the hole cannot be made absolutely even; be careful not to damage the waterproofing on the sharp ledges of the bar.
Step 5. Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should enter with little effort, rather tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to walk around the perimeter of the hole and pipe with foam. Mounting foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and fixes it firmly in the desired position.
We recommend foaming the holes and after covering the walls, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. During the expansion of the foam, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damages will automatically close.
The exhaust pipe does not need to be insulated, warm air escapes through it. But we advise, just in case, to do all the operations for her. Firstly, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will make additional and reliable protection against atmospheric moisture penetration to wooden structures.
Once both holes are prepared, you can start upholstering the walls and install decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.
Important. We strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil when installing the steam room ventilation. The work is performed according to the above algorithm with one difference. Ventilation should be either permanently closed (while taking water procedures) or constantly open (while ventilating the bath). The use of foil as vapor barrier for walls has many positive aspects. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensation between the cladding and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to the wood.
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Video - DIY ventilation
How to make a hole in a log house using a crown
If you do not want to make ventilation holes manually, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the bit requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most saunas, small volumes of this size are sufficient.
Step 1. Select a crown with a suitable diameter and fix it in the chuck. Mark the drilling location.
Step 2. To lighten the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication must be repeated periodically. As soon as the bit is about two-thirds deeper, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate the inside and outside surfaces.
Step 3. Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill. Insert a crown into the shallow hole and start drilling the bar.
Step 4. Drill as long as the bit height allows. Pay close attention to the operation of the electric tool, do not allow heavy loads. The loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown against the bar.
Step 5... The crown does not work further - remove it and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It is removed quickly, start gradually chipping off at the corners of the hole. Do not use a chisel to chop the log across the grain, only split it along the grain, it’s much easier to do the job.
Repeat the operations until the hole is through. If the bar is so thick that the drill cannot go through it from one side, move to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the hole already made as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. We'll have to look for the center on our own. To do this, install a thin wood drill into the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the center drill of the crown and make a through hole very carefully. The more precisely you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.
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Video - How to drill a hole with a crown
Bath ventilation with heating
Quite an original method of ventilation, not only fresh air lends itself to the bath, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter, it is possible not only to increase the comfort of stay, but also to speed up the heating of the premises and save firewood.
Air intake is carried out at the bottom of the bath and is supplied to the air intake duct with the help of electric fans.
The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, air from the duct enters the screen channels. The screen has two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator for heating the air coming from the air duct. The heated air comes out of the screen into the steam room.
If desired, you can slightly improve the design. Install a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take both air from the bath and from the street - the possibilities of regulating the parameters of the microclimate in the room are significantly expanded.
Video - Ventilation in a heated steam room