Floor lathing. How to make a ceiling lathing for plastic panels - a step-by-step guide, expert advice. Transverse single-level frame. Installation features

When sheathing the ceiling surface in the room, it is very important to correctly mount the frame for the plasterboard ceiling, otherwise the structure will turn out to be not easy sloppy uneven, but also dangerous for the inhabitants of the house, since it will have a weak bearing capacity.

Before installing the crate, you need to understand the types of materials for it and the types of arrangement.

What is this article about

What is the frame for?

The need to make a frame for the ceiling under the gypsum board arises in the following cases:

When the surface has a level difference of more than 4 mm;
When arranging bunk or multi-level structures;
If necessary, laying a ceiling insulation, sound insulator;
When a significant reduction in floor-to-ceiling height is required.

Frame materials

Any frame for a plasterboard ceiling can be:

Wooden - that is, assembled from wooden slats. The advantages of such a foundation include budget, such a ceiling lathing for drywall will cost much cheaper than from a metal profile. But at the same time it is much less durable, it is afraid of moisture and wood-eating beetles, it is subject to rapid decay, swelling and deformation due to exposure to a humid environment, as well as the appearance of mold and fungus. It is necessary that the bars are well dried, the slats are distinguished by almost perfect evenness and do not even have such flaws as microcracks, small beetle moves.

Before installation, they are treated with specialized solutions, antiseptic liquids.

Metal - a more expensive, but at the same time convenient, practical and durable material. Metal profiles do not swell from dampness, are not susceptible to the appearance of fungus, mold, and besides, which is important, they do not require any preliminary processing.

Frame types

According to the structure of the location of the profiles, the following types of bases are distinguished:

Cellular - when the profiles and the accompanying lintels form one-dimensional cells - 60 × 60. This type of installation of a hinged frame is suitable for those who doubt that they can install a reliable simple frame for drywall with their own hands. It will come out somewhat more expensive in cost, but it is easy to install and there is practically no need to calculate the bearing properties. Also, this construction is very durable;
Transverse - when the gypsum board sheets are attached exclusively to the transverse profiles. However, it is worth performing such work only when the master is confident in his calculations and strength.

By the number of tiers, you can make a frame:

Single-level - the easiest to assemble, as well as the location of the profiles, since in this case, they will all be in a single plane;
Multilevel - more difficult to install, since you will have to install and calculate 2 or more tiers of the skeleton at once. at the same time, an independent structure is also called multi-level, when the area to be installed is not all covered with gypsum board. That is, you can attach the conceived elements to the base ceiling without sheathing it completely, but only partially covering it with a geometric figure;
With a box - in fact, this is the same two-level structure, only elements protruding on a 2 line are more often of a rectangular perimeter type, usually used as camouflage for wiring, hiding other communications. Also, the installation of a plasterboard box on the ceiling can be performed exclusively with a decorative concept, for example, when installing around the perimeter of the backlight.

Preparation of materials and tools

Before installing any frame, be sure to prepare all the required tools. They must be clean, working, accurate in action.

Roulette;
Plain carpentry ruler;
A simple construction pencil;
Screwdriver or drill with a carrier;
Metal scissors;
Alcohol level or better level;
Perforator;
Ladder;
Painting cord;
Plumb line.

Required materials:

Guiding ceiling profiles, aluminum or galvanized (PPN-UD) - 27 × 28 mm, with stiffening ribs, ordinary ones with corrugated rolling will not work, they are intended for plastic sheathing;
Carriers (CD-PP) - 60 × 27 mm;
Anchor dowels;
Sealing tape;
"Crabs" (connectors);
Extensions for bearing profiles;
Self-tapping screws (TN 0.35 * 2.5 cm) for fixing the guides to the hangers;
Self-tapping screws for fixing bearing profiles - "bugs";
Primer, putty and so on to prepare the base;
Insulation, if desired (fixed in the cavities of the frame).

You can also use the ceiling gypsum calculator:

*Attention! All results are approximate - accuracy depends on wall material, condition and shape of the room

Surface preparation

When all the materials and tools are ready, you can start preparing the room and foundation. This process is also the same for all types of installation.

For this:

It is necessary to remove from the room all the furniture that may interfere or deteriorate during the installation process;
Also, it is necessary to carefully inspect the surface of the ceiling for leaks, cracks and other things. If the roof is leaking, it should be pre-patched, since due to leaks, the sheathing material will subsequently swell - an irreversible process that requires replacement, or the base, and this is fraught with the fact that the frame for the plasterboard ceiling will be weakened;
Cracks may indicate a violation of the strength of the load-bearing floors and this is no longer dangerous for the suspended structure, but for the safety of the people living in the house;
Non-dangerous cracks, depressions are simply sealed with putty;
Further, it is necessary to mark the location of the load-bearing floor beams (if it is made of wood);
Clean the surface from crumbling elements - plaster and so on and prime;
Remove all sub-ceiling wiring, providing it, if necessary, with a protective corrugated tube and insulating all connections. It should be positioned in such a way that the metal crate under the drywall on the ceiling does not come into contact with it in any way. Although many people advise tucking wires into the grooves of the profiles, this should not be done.

Sheathing scheme

First, you need to draw up a diagram that will display the locations of the profiles, and in addition, the points of their attachment. A drawing is drawn up with a simple pencil on a regular sheet of paper.

The sizes, of course, should be scaled down.

The diagram should contain:

The attachment points of the guide profiles (starting strips running along the perimeter), marked in increments of 30-40 cm (the scales, of course, need to be reduced on the sheet);
Ceiling profiles and their cross-members - in 60 cm increments;
Points of passage of in-frame lighting devices, wires and other communications.

For this you need:

Measure the length from edge to edge of all (namely all, not one or two) walls. You cannot measure the wall, and then simply multiply its length by 4, since the level may not be the same, errors in miscalculations will subsequently lead to the curvature of the frame;
Measure the height of all corners, as well as from the floor to the central part of the ceiling;
From the lowest angle, the distance between the base and the false ceiling should be measured further to determine the accuracy of the choice of communication devices or the ceiling structure. At this stage of measurements, it is also recommended to measure the location of not only the luminaires, but also the junction boxes.

Installation of a single-level cellular frame made of metal profiles

In order to install the ceiling frame under the cellular drywall, as mentioned above, no special experience is required. However, careful preparation for such work is still required, as well as attentiveness, accuracy during installation.

The work plan consists of several stages:

After the drawing is ready, using a chopping cord or pencil, as well as a tape measure and a level, you need to transfer the markings to the walls and ceiling;
On the guide profiles, in a step of 30-40 cm, holes are drilled for fasteners (if they are not available in the factory version);
On the reverse side of the UD shelf, a sealing tape is glued. This metal profile is fixed along the line marked by the skipping to the walls with anchor dowels;
With an indent from the wall of 30 cm, they are fixed on self-tapping screws or 6 mm dowels (depending on the surface material), U-shaped suspensions, every 60 cm. They should be in the central parts between the jumpers;
Bearing profiles are also pasted over with sealing tape on the back of the shelf and fastened with self-tapping screws to the hangers bent in the shape of the letter "P". If the length of the carriers is not enough, they can be extended with connectors;
The jumpers are fixed with "crabs". They should be located with a step of 60 cm, at the places of the future docking of the GCR sheets, and in a checkerboard pattern.

During the installation of the entire structure, it is very important to check the vertical-horizontal evenness and control it using plumb lines and a level

Transverse single-level frame. Installation features

Among the advantages of this method is the absence of the need for some elements - crabs and lintels, which reduces costs. This method is also called rail because of the parallel profiles.

At stage 1, the frame of the two-level ceiling is also displayed schematically with a step of transverse profiles of 50 cm;
In the corner that is lowest in height from floor to ceiling, a mark is placed on the location of the structure and from it along the perimeter the line of the guides is marked with a skip. It is difficult to do it yourself, without help, it is better to use the help of a second person or use a level, marking the lines with a pencil;
At this mark, guides are installed, with a pre-glued sealing tape;
Further, load-bearing transverse profiles are inserted into their grooves, fixed to the suspensions and to the starting ones themselves.

As in the case of the honeycomb frame, it is necessary to constantly check the level of construction guidance.

So you can quickly, independently mount in one of the ways, a metal frame for plasterboard sheathing on the ceiling.

Hello dear readers! The following situation happened to me: a distant relative asked for help with repairs. I came and saw: there was a terrible plaster on the walls, painted in several layers. Shooting down this beauty is so troublesome and dusty that we refused the option. I decided to sheathe the room with plasterboard. But it is very undesirable to attach this material to a tree, that is, if you have wooden walls, then you need to fix the metal profile on them and sheathe the structure with sheets. Let's figure out together how to make a crate for drywall.

An example of a lathing for drywall

When is drywall lathing necessary?

It's easy to figure out if you need a solid frame. Are you doing repairs with your own hands, are you planning to create suspended ceilings from drywall, or do you want to sheathe the room from the inside and then insulate it with mineral wool? In such cases, the use of lathing is mandatory.
If work is being done to level the walls, you can understand whether a lathing is necessary by assessing the evenness of the walls, or rather, the level of their difference. If the value of the curvature does not exceed 40 mm, installation of the lathing under the drywall is optional. Give preference to gluing sheets with Perlfix glue, so you can significantly reduce your final costs.

Differences between frames for plasterboard lathing

According to the materials used, all structures are divided into wood and metal. Traditionally, it is believed that the former are more environmentally friendly, therefore, they are used for plasterboard finishing of log houses. Also, a feature of the wood frame is the ability to carry out work on its correction without preliminary dismantling.
The main disadvantage of wood is its exactingness to the level of humidity in the room. At high rates, the material will swell and deform, and at strongly underestimated rates, it will dry out and crack. The optimum moisture content for wooden battens is 17 to 20%.
Metal structures are more practical. To form such a crate for drywall, the following types of profile are used:

guide (UW, UD profile)
rackmount (CD, CW)

When choosing elements, you should pay attention to their sizes: they must be identical.

In addition to ease of use, the metal is characterized by high corrosion resistance. Thanks to the zinc coating, it is possible to fix drywall to the material even in the wettest conditions. In this case, pay extra attention to the moisture-resistant sheathing sheets.
Do-it-yourself installation of a metal crate is not difficult; to form a structure for drywall, it is enough just to observe some technological points, we will talk about them further.

Do-it-yourself three steps to creating a drywall sheathing

The process of creating a lathing can be roughly divided into three stages. Below we will dwell on each of them in more detail. Due to the absence of significant differences between how to fasten wooden or metal slats under drywall, we will also give universal recommendations that are suitable for each type of material.
Please note that vertical lathing (for example, for a ceiling) differs significantly from the standard horizontal one. In this case, three profiles are provided for fastening drywall sheets: two on both edges, and one in the center.

The step between the slats for further plasterboard cladding Before proceeding with the fastening to the wall, you should prepare a sketch of the future building. It is worth considering the following requirements for the placement of elements:

the distance between the guides is from 40 to 60 cm;
suspensions are placed every 50 cm.

So that during installation you understand how and where to attach a profile for drywall, there is nothing easier than making a preliminary marking of the surface. Use a pencil and long ruler. Please note that the holes for the dowels are made in increments of 40 cm.
Since the preliminary work is over, we can begin to fix the drywall. Cut the material to the size you want. The installation of the frame begins with attaching the rails to which the rack elements are mounted. All connections are made with a cutter or using self-tapping screws.

To visually see how the installation of the lathing under drywall is going on, we strongly recommend that you watch the video. With its help, you can eliminate the most common mistakes during installation. This advice is especially important if you are only interested in how to make a suspended ceiling out of plasterboard and decide whether to do it yourself or not.

The subtleties of installing the lathing under drywall

Observe the technology. Making a crate with your own hands obliges you to choose a profile yourself. Approach the process as responsibly as possible! Calculate the possible load on the building, if necessary, prefer more durable varieties.
Use the material only in the way indicated in its purpose: do not fasten the ceiling rails as a load-bearing element of the partition. Otherwise, you create a knowingly emergency design.

Example of plasterboard battens When installing plasterboard on a metal frame, observe the markings for the inside and outside of the sheet. This is especially true for moisture-resistant specimens.
It is necessary to fasten the drywall in compliance with the correct gaps, as this is important for further filling. A sufficient distance is 4-7mm, such an arrangement contributes to an increase in the overall strength of the structure.
Sometimes it is extremely necessary to bend metal parts, as, for example, in the case of installing a frame for a curly plasterboard ceiling. For this, uniform cuts are made on the lateral ribs. Experts insist that, if possible, it is necessary to abandon the use of a grinder, as this damages the corrosion resistance of the material. This is due to the burnout of the protective zinc layer during such cutting. The best solution is to use scissors for cutting metal.

What can not be cut slats for plasterboard cladding

Final work during the installation of the sheathing for drywall

If you have carefully studied the previous sections and know how to properly fasten the profile for drywall, there should not be any special difficulties with the subsequent installation of the sheets.
Mark out the surface. Use a sharp knife and rule to cut. Install with the recommended floor-to-sheet clearance.
After installing the drywall on the frame, prepare the joints and attachment points for subsequent finishing - putty them. Please note that an absolutely smooth surface must be achieved! This requirement turns out to be especially important if you plan to putty plasterboard walls for painting or wallpaper. To do this, check if the heads of the self-tapping screws are protruding? If so, tighten them all the way. But do not overdo it, so as not to form additional grooves.
Now you know the basic principles of creating battens. But have you ever had to install a frame for an LED strip with your own hands? Is it as simple as it seems at first glance? Please share your experience! Leave a comment and our specialists will definitely answer you!
Drywall is usually rarely attached directly to the wall. Sometimes the glue method is used, but only when the surface is very even. Usually, the lathing is the intermediary between the drywall and the wall surface.

How to make a crate for drywall

The frame can be metal or wood - metal is used more often. Nevertheless, metal is a more durable material, its surface is smooth and, unlike wood, it does not need to be processed.

The environment “does not matter” to metal - warm or damp, what kind of humidity is in the room. There is also no need to treat metal with antiseptics.

Yes, and when assembling, it is not more convenient to find material: today, almost everywhere you can buy special profiles, the dimensions of which are also great for creating lathing.
Therefore, I would like to answer the question of how to make the crate - metal. It is installed according to the previously made markings, but about the choice of materials for the lathing - further.

What metal profile is needed for plasterboard lathing

Profiles are long metal strips that are usually made from strong steel strip. Onii always make the crate strong and rigid, but at the same time do not make the structure itself heavier.
To create the lathing, you will need the following metal profiles:

Guides... It has a U-shape and four types of sizes. Guide profiles can be designated by the Latin letters UW.
Rack... Designated with the letters PS or CW, it has a C-shape and also has four types of sizes. Along the shelf, such profiles have three grooves: on the middle, gypsum boards are joined, and the outer ones serve as a centering point for the screws that are then screwed in.
Jumpers... But you can make them yourself: cut the edges at a forty-five degree angle, bend the edges along the notches. This jumper will work for either side.

You can make jumpers from pieces of guide and rack profiles.

The process begins with marking the surface of the walls. Mark the rack rails along the axes 60 cm apart.
Then proceed like this:

It is necessary to mount the suspensions on the wall with a step of 60 cm, this will be a bracket for fixing the metal profile to the surface;
Using a level, the rack element is leveled; it must be fastened to the suspensions with self-tapping screws;
This is done with each element along the entire perimeter.

Lathing will look like a cage of two types of slats. And then the process of plating the gypsum board follows. The lathing is made taking into account that the dimensions of the walls affect the choice of profiles.

Wall metal profile for plasterboard lathing

Profiles for plasterboard structures can be of three types: arched, wall and ceiling. Wall ones are distinguished by the fact that they have increased rigidity. They are the supporting frame for, for example, interior partitions. That is, this is the metal base for the subsequent plating of the gypsum board.

Wall rack profiles are used specifically for cladding the walls of the gypsum board. The installation of rack profiles with guides takes place. The dimensions stand out from the height of the place where the gypsum board will be mounted.

It is better to fix the rack-mount gypsum board with screws, which must first be fixed to the surface of the walls.
Plasterboard (GKL) is simply irreplaceable for creating perfectly flat surfaces of walls and ceilings, as well as for the construction of new partitions. Most often, the gypsum board involves fastening to a special frame. A metal or wooden lathing for drywall is the basis for a future wall or ceiling. Its device is a fairly simple process, it is enough to pay attention to the choice of suitable materials and make accurate markings.

Installing plasterboard battens The frame installation method has many advantages. Firstly, the service life of such battens is quite long. They will last no less than the coating itself. Secondly, the installation process itself is very technological and uncomplicated, regardless of whether metal profiles or wooden bars are used, a crate is made for walls or ceilings. However, when faced with the need to make repairs, the question may arise: to make a frame of wood or metal?

Material for plasterboard lathing: wood or metal

Any plasterboard battens can be either wood or steel. Steel structures are made of galvanized battens, and wooden structures are made of softwood.

Wooden frames can only be made for dry and warm rooms, in which there are no significant temperature drops.

Otherwise, moisture will be present in the room, which will shorten the life of wood products. The metal base is more reliable as a plasterboard crate. But it has another important advantage: all metal profiles have precise geometric dimensions and are easy to work with. Therefore, comparing these two systems, the advantage is clearly on the metal side. Installing a metal frame will require the following tools:

scissors for metal (as an option, an angle grinder with a cutting wheel or a hacksaw for metal will do);
screwdriver or electric screwdriver;
building level (at least 1 m);
puncher;
pencil.

For the installation of a wooden structure you will need:

hacksaw for wood;
nails or screws;
hammer;
screwdriver;
construction level;
puncher;
pencil.

Depending on which frame needs to be done, the following metal profiles are required:
Types of metal profiles.

PN - guide (resembles the letter "P" and is used to attach riser or ceiling profiles);
PS - riser (in the center it has a stiffener to enhance the bearing capacity; intended for the device of partitions);
PP - ceiling (in profile it resembles the letter "C" and is used to construct a frame on the ceiling or walls).

For the device of the frames, you will also need the following components:

brackets of the EU type (or, as they are also called, direct hangers);
suspension rods;
dowel-nails;
self-tapping screws of the "flea" type;
self-tapping screws L = 19-25 mm.

Installation of wall lathing for drywall

Plasterboard wall cladding is made to level it. To do this, you will need EU brackets, PN profiles, PP profiles and fasteners. First you need to make the markup. The order of its execution is as follows:

Step back from the wall 50-150 mm (the step depends on the degree of unevenness of the wall) and draw a straight line on the ceiling. This will be the label for the top guide rail.
Transfer the markings from the ceiling to the floor. This can be done using a plumb bob or a laser level. This will be the label for the bottom guide.

At this stage, it is important to correct everything correctly, because the verticality of the future wall depends on it. The top and bottom marks must be strictly parallel to each other. Marking for a wooden frame can be done according to the same principle.

Installation of lathing for walls

After applying the markings, you can start installing the frame. First, the PN guides are screwed to the ceiling and floor. In this case, the step between the dowels should not exceed 600 mm. This operation must be done for the entire perimeter of the walls. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the racks, on which the gypsum board (gypsum plasterboard) will be directly attached. The PP profile is attached to the upper and lower PN and to the wall through straight hangers, the distance between which is 1000 mm. The number of suspensions is calculated using the formula: K = (L: 1000) - 1, where L is the height of the room (mm). For example, if the ceiling height of the apartment is 2800 mm, then it is correct to fix the rail to the wall with two hangers.

An important point! The place of installation of the PP-profile is determined by the size of the plasterboard sheet. Considering that the standard size of the gypsum board is 2500 mm by 1250 mm, fix it correctly with three guides, the step between which is exactly half the width of the sheet, that is, 625 mm.

After the frame of the entire room or room has been typed, you can start installing drywall. The installation of the lathing for the partition must be done in the same way, only for this, PS and PN metal profiles of a larger standard size are used. This is done to provide greater rigidity, taking into account the fact that the frame will perceive loads from both sides.

Installation of plasterboard lathing on the ceiling

To do this, you need PN and PP profiles, straight suspensions (suspensions on rods) and fasteners. This is usually done as follows:

Make the correct markup for PN. To do this, an indent of 150 mm is made from the ceiling (the interceiling space is left for laying communications), and a PN is attached around the entire perimeter of the room.
In the places of the bearing profiles (PP), suspensions are attached to the ceiling. Each rail must be fastened at a 600 mm pitch.
After cutting the guides (PP) to the desired size, they must be inserted into the PN and fixed at the edges and to the suspensions.
It remains to fix the transverse rails with the help of special connecting elements, and you can install drywall.

As you can see, it is quite easy to mount the crate for drywall. With the simple tools found in most homes, and clarity about the sequence of steps, you can do the job described correctly with your hands, which will bring you not only significant cost savings, but also satisfaction from the work done.

The choice of material for plasterboard lathing

Drywall is one of the most demanded finishing materials. The first stage in leveling the walls and the basis of the entire structure is the installation of the drywall sheathing.

The lathing for drywall is made of wood or metal. Before creating the frame on which the drywall is attached, it is important to choose the right material. It could be metal. It is easy to assemble, since it is produced in the form of special profiles that are durable and do not require treatment with antiseptics. The tree is perfect for dry rooms, with a constant temperature, then the structure will last longer. In this case, conifers should be preferred. The permissible moisture content that wood can withstand is not more than 20%, if it is exceeded, cracks may occur at the seams of the sheathing. Wooden lathing for drywall is used for small spaces.
Metal is the most common frame material because it is durable and easy to assemble. Thanks to the smooth surface of the metal strips, no pre-treatment is required and they are immediately ready for use, and the drywall sheets adhere as tightly as possible. Working with them is much faster, easier, and no special tools are required. Their qualities are not affected by the ambient temperature and humidity - they are not susceptible to rust.
To install a metal profile base, you will need:

Hammer;
Screwdriver with attachments;
Perforator (drill);
Bulgarian;
Construction level (laser can be used) to determine the joints that require alignment;
Plumb line;
A sketching pencil for marking the walls.

You need to purchase components:

Brackets;
Dowels for mounting on concrete coated walls;
Self-tapping screws.

For the crate you will need metal profiles:

PN (UW, UD) - a guide in the form of the letter “P” for attaching side or ceiling sheets;
PS (CW, CD) - rack-mountable, with an additional stiffener to strengthen the structure, serves for partitions and is a tie for the entire frame;
PP - resembles the letter "C", used for ceilings.

Installation of a profile of the sheathing for drywall

Before creating the lathing, you should mark the surface. With the help of a pencil and a tape measure, starting lines are set. Using a level, preferably a laser one, it is necessary to determine the unevenness of the walls, on the basis of this, indents of 6-15 cm are made. The first line is drawn on the wall under the ceiling - it will become the main reference point for the PN of the metal profile. The next horizontal line is drawn at the bottom of the wall - this will be the place for laying the lower guides. The accuracy of the measurements will determine how flat the wall will be. After marking, you can start attaching the upper and lower rails. Holes are made for dowels with a perforator with a drill and profile strips are fixed along the perimeter of the wall.
To mark the surface, use a level, it is better to choose it with a laser, then there will be no inaccuracies in case of unevenness of the wall
After the guide metal profile is stuffed around the entire perimeter, you should make a markup for the future, vertically installed CD - profile. Before cutting sheets, you need to determine the distance between their segments. For this, the size and thickness of the drywall is taken into account. The more often vertical slats are mounted, the stronger the entire frame will be. During installation, it should be borne in mind that, according to the factory marking, it is recommended to fix the rack profile in increments of 0.60 m, but experts, to improve rigidity, advise installing it in increments of 0.40 m, if the thickness of the plasterboard sheets is 12.5 mm.

To fix the rack profile, you will need dowels, while you must strictly adhere to the line marked on the wall, installing the sheets at the recommended distance from each other. To do this, it is better to first mark the level on the wall with the appropriate step. Using "crocodiles" and "fleas", the fastening is carried out. It is important to check the level several times when installing each metal profile. When each profile is fixed, the structure is ready.
It often happens that a small uncovered area remains in the structure. This can mainly be observed in the corners, since the size of the whole sheet is simply not enough for a complete overlap. In this case, an additional stand is installed, to which a sheet of the required size is attached. It would be correct to calculate such an option in advance, so that, simultaneously with the main ones, the installation of an additional rack is carried out.

Advantages of installing plasterboard battens

Although drywall can be used without lathing, this option is cheaper, but at the same time it does not have the same qualities and capabilities as the frame method. Among its advantages are:

No need for preliminary surface preparation, as in the case of gluing sheets directly on the walls and they need to be leveled;
Thanks to the frame for drywall sheets, you can make heat and sound insulation, for which mineral wool is placed in the openings, which is impossible in the case of using sheathing without lathing;
The ability to create both perfectly flat and embossed wall surfaces. You can also mount shelves and various partitions;
If the base for drywall is made of metal profiles, then they will last for decades without changing their properties, regardless of climatic conditions. It is fireproof and lightweight material;
The sturdy frame construction extends the service life of the finish.

Using drywall battens will help you implement any design ideas.

You are wondering how to make a crate under drywall with your own hands? Then follow the technology and approach the process with the utmost responsibility.
Observing the technology of creating a crate for drywall, you can do it yourself
Basic rules that are important to adhere to:

Calculate the possible load and, if necessary, choose a more durable material;
When buying material, it is better to make some stock;
Use the material strictly for its intended purpose, for example, do not attach the ceiling profiles to the place of the partition bearing element, otherwise, you provoke an emergency;
Watch the labeling of the sheet - the outer and inner parts, especially when it comes to moisture-resistant products;
Observe the correct clearances, as this will affect further filling;
If it is necessary to bend the profile, as in the case of curved walls or ceilings, uniform cuts are made on the side edges. Experts advise not to use a grinder, as this affects the corrosion resistance of the material due to the burnout of the protective layer. It is better to use scissors for cutting metal;
When screwing in self-tapping screws, be extremely careful. Make sure that they do not come into contact with the wiring and do not pierce it;
The caps of the self-tapping screws should not stick out, since with the further installation of the drywall sheets, they will interfere with their snug fit.

Having the necessary tool at hand and applying the knowledge gained, creating a crate for drywall will not be a difficult job for you, and if you follow the elementary rules, a good result is ensured.

Drywall is a frequent guest of modern renovation. With its help, the alignment of walls and the formation of ceiling structures are most often carried out.
In any of these installation options, a ceiling lath is required. The strength of the entire structure, as well as its appearance, will depend on how correctly the installation of the frame on the ceiling was performed.

The nuances of installing the lathing under drywall

The lathing of the ceiling for plastering it with plasterboard depends on the following parameters:

the type of ceiling construction chosen. Since the ceiling can be single or multi-level, the installation of frame elements will be carried out according to slightly different schemes;
the size of the room. The larger the room is, the more complex and voluminous the crate will be.

When planning the formation of a suspended ceiling, be sure to pay attention to these nuances. This will greatly help you in the further installation, and the drywall itself will be much easier to attach to the frame structures.

Choosing a material for plasterboard cladding

Drywall to the ceiling can be mounted on two types of frame elements:

wooden slats and bars. In terms of their qualities, they are slightly inferior to metal, since their service life, especially under certain conditions, will be somewhat less;

Note! A wooden frame can be used only in those rooms where there is a dry microclimate. But all the same, wooden elements must be pre-treated with special means that prevent its destruction.

metal profiles. More preferable in terms of forming a frame for gypsum plasterboard sheets. They are more durable and will last much longer. For the ceiling, it is recommended to use only metal frame elements.

The choice of material for drywall sheathing is entirely up to you. But remember that in rooms such as a kitchen, a toilet with a bath, as well as a balcony and a loggia, it is better to use metal.

Drawings of the lathing for drywall

The plan of the future structure is very important, since without it it is impossible to correctly and quickly assemble the frame for any ceiling device.
To create a plan, you need to carry out the following calculations:

measure the perimeter of the room;
determine the level of lowering the ceiling;
determine the step of fastening the frame elements. For wooden battens and metal profiles, it will be almost the same. For vertical elements, you can use a step of 60 cm (with a multi-level overlap, you can use a step of 50 cm), and for horizontal elements - 40-50 cm.

Having created such a drawing, you can easily calculate the number of metal profiles or wooden slats required for the lathing, as well as the number of fasteners and drywall.

Tools and materials for installing plasterboard battens

Lathing the ceiling requires only a punch or screwdriver at hand. But you will have to stock up on materials.
So, from the whole variety of building materials for mounting a frame for drywall, you will need:

wooden slats or metal profiles. From the profiles, you will need to purchase elements of the D series (rack and rail). Take the thickness of 25 mm. But with multi-level overlap, it is better to take the W series, and the thickness is at least 50 mm;
fasteners: dowels, self-tapping screws, U-shaped or wire hangers, as well as crabs.

With such a set, you will definitely make the crate correctly, efficiently and very quickly.

Strong and durable material, such as PVC panels, does not fade and does not wear out during operation, it is used for decoration in internal and external works.

The most common question when installing PVC panels: is a crate needed and how to make it?

Lathing Is the supporting structure on which the panels are installed. Installation of panels and installation of battens are two integral processes. The reliability and aesthetic appeal of the finish depend on the quality of its installation. Its installation is very simple and does not require the involvement of additional forces, and will help the facing materials to withstand in a humid room, and in an environment with sudden temperature changes. It will prevent deformation of the panels and save them for re-assembly.

Types of crate

The lathing is made of metal, wood or plastic. The material is carefully selected. If this is a tree, then it must be dry, without knots, cracks, fungi and other damage. However, such a crate does not differ in strength and durability. This material is prone to deformation and is never installed on a ceiling.
Plastic slats are more reliable material. The plastic does not deform or rot, it is usually sold together with clips and PVC panels for cable management.
Metal profiles are recommended for use in a room with high humidity.

Ceiling installation can be performed at any stage of the renovation. The appearance of the ceiling made of PVC panels is not inferior to suspended and stretch ceilings. As a crate, plastic or, as wooden, almost always, being at the top, swell, accumulate mold and fungi.

Ceiling surface preparation

The surface is pre-treated with a primer and antiseptic agents.

An important condition for the installation of the ceiling lathing is an absolutely flat surface. To achieve this, it is necessary to determine the lowest corner in the room and, using a level, draw a line from it along the entire perimeter of the room. According to the marking, the lathing elements are installed using dowels, between which a fishing line, a marking cord or thread is pulled for orientation.

They are also planning the placement of lighting devices and communication systems. With a pencil, mark the points for fixing the hangers or lines for attaching the rails and the location of the lamps. Cuts holes and installs plinths. For built-in lamps, a space of at least 5 cm is left to completely hide the wiring. Experts do not recommend low ceilings. To hang the chandelier, a hook is attached to the ceiling through a cut hole in the panel.

Ceiling lathing

The rest of the work is similar to the similar work on the walls.

The step between the slats is no more than 30 cm, this will save the panels from sagging. Metal profiles are installed, observing a step from 1 to 1.5 m. The slats are attached perpendicularly. Fastening takes place with short self-tapping screws from 20-25 cm.

PVC plastic panels are usually guided along the lighting to hide the joints.

It is possible that the very first one is inserted into the so-called plastic start (corner or baseboard). Otherwise, holes are drilled along the edge, which will then be covered with a plinth. Subsequent parts are wound around the edges with installed and fixed with self-tapping screws. So that there is no trace left from screwing in, the head of the self-tapping screw should not touch the front side of the cladding.

All work is constantly controlled by the level.

After the completion of the work, the joints are coated with a sealant, which includes silicone, in order to achieve complete waterproofness. A gap is left between the panels and the walls, which is subsequently covered with a skirting board.

A flat ceiling does not require the installation of a lathing.

Recently, the use of plastic panels has become a fashionable trend among approaches to decorating ceilings with finishing materials. This design is very popular due to its ease of installation, availability of materials and excellent results, however, the most difficult installation is the frame for the ceiling made of plastic panels.

PVC panels are widely used in the world of building finishing materials. Increasingly, when repairing ceilings in the bathroom, they use standard finishing mixtures, namely PVC panels.

Why do they deserve such attention and are so popular:

Plastic panels are an affordable material, this is the most budgetary option for finishing the ceiling;
Installation of such panels does not require special skills and abilities;
There is no need to prepare the ceiling surface, since PVC panels are able to close all irregularities and defects;
They are made of environmentally friendly materials, odorless, which makes their use in apartment buildings safe for health.

As you can see, the plastic ceiling is a very advantageous interior design. Plastic panels have a number of positive properties, which also adds advantages to their use: they are moisture resistant, not exposed to sunlight and light, easy to clean, easy to install.

The most difficult and crucial moment when installing such panels is the installation of a profile for the ceiling. After all, a plastic ceiling is a suspended ceiling that is fully attached to a metal profile created and fixed to the ceiling.

Assembling a ceiling profile takes a lot of time and requires utmost care. The installation of the profile is an attachment around the perimeter, and then over the entire area of the bathroom or any other room, with aluminum rails, on which the plastic panels will then be attached using self-tapping screws.

Ceiling frame for plastic panels

The creation of a frame for the ceiling is the main and most important stage in the installation of a plastic ceiling.

Before starting to install the frame, you need to purchase basic materials and prepare tools:

These are the aluminum rails themselves,
Self-tapping screws,
Hacksaw for metal,
Perforator,
Screwdriver.

The installation of the frame begins with a careful marking. A distance of 10 cm recedes down from the ceiling - this is necessary for the further installation of spotlights and the laying of electrical wiring and other necessary communications. The profile is installed along the entire perimeter of the surface, fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws. The installation of a profile for plastic panels must be very neat and stable enough, since this profile will then hold the entire ceiling on itself.

How to make a crate for plastic panels on the ceiling

Installation of a profile for plastic panels on the ceiling is the construction of a kind of lattice on which the rest of the materials are attached. The lathing for plastic panels is made from the same aluminum profiles as the main frame.

How to make a crate for the ceiling:

The main guides are attached along the entire perimeter, creating the main frame of the ceiling; the most commonly used profile for drywall.
The resulting rectangle is filled with additional guides inside - they are installed at a certain distance from each other on standard hangers or wooden beams.
When installing suspensions, the distance between them should be no more than 60 cm.
In addition to metal guides, you can also use wooden blocks - the quality will remain the same. Most often, wooden lathing is used on the balcony when sheathing the ceiling with clapboard.

Before starting the installation, using a level, you need to clearly measure the height so that it is the same along the entire perimeter. In the middle of the rectangle obtained during the installation of the frame, the height is also leveled. To do this, you can use the tension of the nylon thread. It is very important to keep the distance when installing the frame in order to avoid unevenness during the further installation of the panels.

Installation of the main guides, as a rule, is carried out along a wall with a window so that the seams are not so visible. The supporting profiles of the frame should be installed strictly perpendicular to the plastic panels.

Ceiling lathing for plastic panels

The installation of lathing on the ceiling for the further installation of plastic panels is a serious and responsible stage. To give strength to the structure and avoid bending it when installing the panels themselves on the ceiling, the main guides are attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or dowels. The distance from the main ceiling is also important here - the type of fastening depends on this: with a small distance, the profile is attached to metal suspensions, but if the distance is significant, then special suspensions with knitting needles are used.

If necessary, additional L-shaped fasteners are made from the profile strips - the smaller part is attached directly to the ceiling, while the long part is attached to the side surface of the profile. This creates additional support. After completing the collection of the frame and lathing, all the necessary work on the wiring and installation of spotlights is carried out. It will be difficult to do this in the future.

In addition to the metal profile and guides, you can use wooden beams and a plastic profile to create a lathing on the ceiling:

Wooden lathing is used in rooms protected from moisture penetration, plastic profile - in small rooms.
In terms of the installation method, such frames are no different from metal ones.
With a perfectly flat surface, plastic panels can be attached directly to the ceiling itself without using a frame. Such a ceiling will last for a long time, however, it will not be possible to install spotlights - only a chandelier.

Installation of ceiling lathing under plastic panels (video)

So, the use of plastic panels for the design of modern interiors is gaining more and more popularity. The simplicity and ease of installation, the availability and variety of finishing materials make this method of finishing the ceiling very successful and promising. The result of decorating a room with plastic panels largely depends on the correct installation of a frame made of metal guides. At the same time, it is very important to ensure that the rails are evenly mounted to the ceiling. Observing the simple rules for installing the necessary materials, you can turn the repair of the ceiling into an exciting activity, the result of which will not hesitate to please you.

In order for your apartment to look decent, it is necessary to refresh all surfaces of the home from time to time, making cosmetic repairs. The ceiling has always been considered the starting point of any renovation and an important element of the interior. If you have a neat, clean ceiling without cracks, drops and leaks, then the whole house looks neat. But in order to properly repair the ceiling, it is important to know the secrets and pay attention to the important details of the work, which we will discuss in this article. We will consider the process of preparing the ceiling lathing on examples of surface preparation for the installation of drywall sheets and for the installation of plastic panels. In the photo you will see the possibilities of these two options, and the video will help you navigate the stages of repair work. Drywall or plastic panels - you decide based on aesthetic taste and financial capabilities.

Plasterboard lathing

If you have chosen drywall as the material for the surface, then before proceeding with the repair work, you need to measure the ceiling and draw a plan according to which the lathing will occur. It is made from bars that are hemmed to the ceiling and crossbars connecting the bars together.

You can see how it looks in the photo.

It is important that the lathing is uniform, logical, so that the distance between the bars is equal and the distance between the crossbars is also. The entire structure in the future will depend on this, as well as whether the ceiling will be reliable. The lathing makes it possible to attach drywall in a reliable and simple way. It is better to fix drywall from the corner of the room so that the joints fit along the transverse bars. The video shows the entire process of work from start to finish.

Lathing for plastic panels

There are rules for the panels. The easiest way is to buy special plastic slats, to which they are attached with clips, in the same place where you purchased the plastic panels. The photo shows this method of fastening, it is simple and will not cause difficulties even for beginners.

It is also possible to prepare the ceiling for fixing the panels with the help of wooden slats, but the process will be longer and more complicated. Some experts recommend using a metal profile for plastic panels. Wooden lathing is considered to be more environmentally friendly. But plastic or metal is not subject to decay, is easier to install, lasts longer and mold does not start in it. This means that the ceiling will last longer. In addition, such a crate, unlike wooden battens, can serve several times in a row. That is, during the next repair, it can be disassembled and reassembled in another room, for example.

It is important to keep the same distance between the planks during installation. If the panel is mounted vertically, then the strip must be positioned horizontally.

Watch the process in the video, and you will understand that it is not difficult at all.

Process clarity

With these works, it does not matter what the ceiling will be finished with in the future, it is important to be very precise. After all, if the frame is made inaccurately, then the cladding will not correct the situation and will not level the surface.

It is better to calculate everything even at the drawing stage, it will allow you to measure the exact distance between the bars or the frame, which means that in the future it will be easier for you to carry out this in practice. It is imperative to use a level during installation, it will avoid height differences and irregularities.

It is advisable to use the walls in order to make the work on the ceiling lathing better with the help of the applied markings. You can see the video on which professional masters give advice here. We hope they will help you to master the whole process of work. And having done this several times, and having understood what the work consists of, you will be able to carry out such repair work on your own and without problems.

As in any construction work, attentiveness and accuracy are important here. The more tidy you are, the better the ceiling surface in your apartment will ultimately look. After all, with a good owner, everything is always smooth, durable, reliable and of high quality!